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WO2008104570A2 - Formulation visant à accroître l'activité d'un extrait végétal pour usage cosmétique et préparation cosmétique contenant cette formulation - Google Patents

Formulation visant à accroître l'activité d'un extrait végétal pour usage cosmétique et préparation cosmétique contenant cette formulation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008104570A2
WO2008104570A2 PCT/EP2008/052392 EP2008052392W WO2008104570A2 WO 2008104570 A2 WO2008104570 A2 WO 2008104570A2 EP 2008052392 W EP2008052392 W EP 2008052392W WO 2008104570 A2 WO2008104570 A2 WO 2008104570A2
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Prior art keywords
zinc
cosmetic
vitamin
skin
booster
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PCT/EP2008/052392
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English (en)
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WO2008104570A3 (fr
Inventor
Daniela Montanari
Manuela Guglielmo
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Labo Cosprophar Ag
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Application filed by Labo Cosprophar Ag filed Critical Labo Cosprophar Ag
Priority to EP08717197A priority Critical patent/EP2124871A2/fr
Publication of WO2008104570A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008104570A2/fr
Publication of WO2008104570A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008104570A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9722—Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a formulation for use in cosmetic preparations which contain plant extracts in order to increase the activity of the plant extract for cosmetic use, and to cosmetic preparations which contain plant extracts with improved cosmetic activity which contain said formulation.
  • Plants for cosmetic use can be used in cosmetic preparations in the form of extracts obtained with any extraction technique (glycolic, glycerin, oil-based, et cetera) and include plants of alpine origin.
  • extraction technique glycolic, glycerin, oil-based, et cetera
  • the alpine flora consists of 4500 species of plants, approximately 40% of the European flora.
  • Alpine plants have had to develop "particular methods", which have allowed them to survive in such a hostile environment, characterized by short vegetative cycles, dry air, soil with limited humus and nutrients, considerable temperature variations and strong winds.
  • nanism is a solution for protection against the wind and the weight of snow.
  • Cosmetic preparations are also known which contain vitamins which are known for their beneficial cosmetic effects.
  • zinc is known as a component of cosmetic preparations due to its positive activity on the skin.
  • the aim of the present invention is to eliminate the drawbacks mentioned above of cosmetic preparations which contain plant extracts, by providing a formulation for use in cosmetic preparations which contain enhanced plant extracts which makes any kind of plant extract for cosmetic use more active. Disclosure of the Invention This aim and other objects, which will become apparent from the following detailed description of the invention, are achieved by the formulation according to the present invention for use in cosmetic preparations which contain plant extracts, comprising an activity enhancement component or booster for plant extracts and an accelerator for cell turnover and metabolism, and optionally excipients which are acceptable from a cosmetic standpoint, the enhancement component comprising one or more vitamins, or fatty acids which compose vitamins, and zinc or a zinc salt or other biomineral complexes based on zinc or other forms of zinc which are biologically active and cosmetically acceptable.
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic preparation comprising one or more plant extracts for cosmetic use and a formulation according to the present invention, intended also as all its components.
  • the formulation according to the present invention allows to enhance the activity of all plant extracts for cosmetic use; in particular, it allows the possibility to enhance the activity of any plant extract for cosmetic use thanks to the enhancement of the activity on the part of the enhancement component or booster and to the increased possibility of the plant extract to interact with a skin tissue which is richer in more active cells, which are rendered such by the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • the inventors of the present invention have found that by using the formulation according to the present invention, the plant extract, enhanced by the enhancement component or booster, by virtue of the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, can be received by more active, more numerous and metabolically more lively cells, which are therefore capable of performing at their best the functions produced by the intervention of such enhanced plant extract, which in this manner can have a higher activity on the skin.
  • Figure 1 shows the corneometry results obtained with a cosmetic product comprising hydrating mallow enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator and without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, at the start of the treatment and after 30 days of treatment.
  • Figure 2 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with hydrating mallow enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Figure 3 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with hydrating mallow without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Figure 4 shows the corneometry results obtained with a cosmetic product comprising purifying thyme enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator and without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, at the start of the treatment and after 30 days of treatment.
  • Figure 5 shows the sebometry results obtained with a cosmetic product comprising purifying thyme enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator and without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, at the start of the treatment and after 30 days of treatment.
  • Figure 6 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with purifying thyme enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Figure 7 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with purifying thyme without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Figure 8 shows the corneometry results obtained with a cosmetic product comprising anti-wrinkle plantain enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator and without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, at the start of the treatment and after 30 days of treatment.
  • Figure 9 shows the elastometry results obtained with a cosmetic product comprising anti-wrinkle plantain enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator and without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, at the start of the treatment and after 30 days of treatment.
  • Figure 10 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with anti-wrinkle plantain enhanced with booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Figure 11 shows the percentage of satisfied volunteers after treatment with anti-wrinkle plantain without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Vitamins for use in the formulation and cosmetic preparation of the present invention are preferably selected among vitamin B3, vitamin F, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof, more preferably among vitamin B3, vitamin F and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids that compose vitamins for use in the present invention are for example fatty acids which are components of vitamin F, such as fatty acids selected among linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • Zinc salts for example zinc sulfate or zinc gluconate or zinc stearate or zinc pyrithione or zinc ricinoleate or zinc oxide and mixtures thereof, as well as other biomineral complexes based on zinc or other forms of zinc which are biologically active and cosmetically acceptable, are suitable for use in the present invention.
  • the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator comprises an algae extract, particularly an extract o ⁇ Dunaliella salina.
  • the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator is present in the formulation and the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention for example at a concentration from 0.05% to 5% by weight with reference to the total weight of the formulation or the cosmetic preparation.
  • the accelerator comprises an algae extract, particularly an extract of Dunaliella salina, such concentration is understood to be expressed by weight of extract.
  • the enhancement component or booster is present in the formulation and the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention for example at a concentration from 0.01 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation or the cosmetic preparation.
  • the zinc or zinc salt or complex with zinc is present in the formulation and the cosmetic preparation according to the invention at a concentration from 0.001 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation or the cosmetic preparation.
  • the one or more vitamins, or the fatty acids that compose vitamins or mixtures thereof, are present in the formulation and the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention for example at a total concentration from 0.001 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation or the cosmetic preparation.
  • the enhancement component or booster comprises preferably vitamin B3, vitamin F and zinc, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight of vitamin B3, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of vitamin F, and from 0.001 to 5% by weight of zinc or salt or complex based on the total weight of the formulation or the cosmetic preparation.
  • the present invention further provides a cosmetic preparation which comprises one or more plant extracts for cosmetic use and a formulation according to the present invention, intended also as all the components of such formulation.
  • the formulation is present in the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention at a concentration from 0.1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the plant extract can be present in the cosmetic preparation, for example, at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% referred to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the formulation and the cosmetic preparation comprise an association of vitamin B3 and vitamin F and zinc and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator, preferably an algae extract, particularly an extract of Dunaliella salina.
  • the present invention relates to the possibility to enhance, by means of the invention, all plant extracts for cosmetic use; in particular, it relates to the possibility to increase the activity of any plant extract for cosmetic use due to the aggregation of such plant extract with a booster which is composed of an exclusive association of vitamin B3, vitamin F and zinc.
  • the inventors have identified a particular cell turnover and metabolism accelerator (extract of Dunaliella salina) which allows the plant extract, enhanced by the booster, to interact with a skin tissue which is richer in more active cells.
  • the enhanced plant extract inserted in a cosmetic preparation, provides a superior capacity for cosmetic benefit.
  • plant extracts or phytoextracts for use with the present invention the research of the inventors has been aimed particularly at plants for cosmetic use which can be used and obtained by means of any form of extraction (glycolic, glycerin, oil-based, et cetera) and preferably at plants of alpine origin.
  • the plants used with the present invention originate from the Swiss Alps.
  • the high quality of the extracts used with the present invention is ensured by the selection of varieties which are rich in active compounds, grown in appropriate soils and at optimum altitudes.
  • the formulation according to the present invention is adapted to increase the activity of any type of plant extract for cosmetic use, since there are common functionalities between vitamins and zinc, particularly vitamins
  • Vitamin B3 The functionalities of vitamins B3, F and zinc are described hereafter and then the common cosmetic functionalities of said vitamins and plant extracts are outlined schematically.
  • vitamin B3 (or “vitamin PP” or niacin) is used to reference two mutually similar molecules: nicotinic acid (niacin in the proper sense of the term) and its amide, nicotinamide (or niacinamide).
  • nicotinic acid niacin in the proper sense of the term
  • amide nicotinamide
  • niacinamide nicotinamide
  • Nicotinamide is a component and is therefore necessary for the production of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), two extremely important coenzymes involved in more than 40 biochemical reactions which require the transfer of hydrogen. Nicotinamide is an essential part of more than 800 enzymes involved in the formation of intermediates of cell metabolism in glycolysis reactions, in pyruvate and citrate metabolism, and in pentose biosynthesis [52].
  • PARP poly(ADP-ribose) polymerase
  • PARP poly(ADP-ribose) polymerase
  • DNA damage is a stimulus which is necessary and sufficient to activate PARP.
  • Hyperactivation of PARP would have a "suicidal role", which would end with cell death, since extensive poly ADP-ribosylation of proteins leads to a great consumption of NAD and to great cellular reduction of ATP.
  • PARP would increase the transcription of a nuclear factor which has a key role in the expression of inflammatory cytokines and inflammation intermediaries.
  • Nicotinamide inhibits tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF- ⁇ ), interleukins 1 and 12 (IL-I and IL- 12), the release of histamine by mastocytes and antigen-induced lymphocyte transformation. It is active against free radicals [52]. Nicotinamide is capable of neutralizing oxygen radicals and inhibiting nitric oxide synthase, an enzyme which forms the free radical nitric oxide. In this manner, it protects the cell and particularly its membranes against destruction by free radicals.
  • Nicotinamide is capable of stabilizing the homeostasis of the epidermal barrier by increasing the levels of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids in the corneal layer, which decrease with age, thus reducing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), consequently increasing the amount of water contained in the skin.
  • TEWL Transepidermal Water Loss
  • the increase in the synthesis of sphingolipids occurs as a consequence of higher activity of the serine palmitoyltransferase enzyme (SPT), which promotes the synthesis. Moisturizing function.
  • SPT serine palmitoyltransferase enzyme
  • Moisturizing function As a consequence of the increase in the barrier function of the skin, nicotinamide therefore acts also as an excellent moisturizer.
  • Vitamin F or essential fatty acids
  • essential fatty acids are mainly located in phospholipids and have a structural function in the lipoproteins of cell membranes and enzymes [58].
  • the biological function of essential fatty acids includes stimulating growth, maintaining the growth of skin and hair, and preserving the integrity of membranes. They act as precursors of prostaglandins and of biologically associated active compounds.
  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) play an important and vital role in the properties of many biomembranes.
  • the physical properties, such as fluidity, of phospholipids are determined to a large extent by the length of the chain and the degree of unsaturation of their fatty acids.
  • Membrane proteins such as for example receptors, enzymes, ion channels, et cetera, are highly sensitive to the lipid environment.
  • the physical properties affect the capacity of phospholipids to perform structural functions, such as maintaining the normal activities of membrane enzymes such as adenylate kinase and NaTK + ATPase [59].
  • Some polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) cannot be synthesized by the body and therefore must be introduced with the diet and are therefore termed essential.
  • the essential nature of these polyunsaturated acids is linked to the presence of one or more double bonds within the terminal 7C.
  • two unsaturated fatty acids are required for life: linoleic acid (an omega 6 acid) and linolenic acid (an omega 3 acid).
  • Arachidonic acid can be synthesized from linoleic acid if it is supplied to the body in sufficient quantity by the diet. Accordingly, it is essential only in case of lack of linoleic acid. Among the several essential fatty acids, linoleic acid alone is important for maintaining normal barrier functions [57].
  • linoleic acid increases the barrier functions of the skin.
  • One of the main functions of linoleic acid is to maintain the integrity of the epidermal barrier in the skin.
  • the physical structure of this water barrier is due to the sheets of stacked bilayers which fill the intercellular voids of the topmost layer of the epidermis.
  • These lipids arranged in a double layer (bilayers) contain large quantities of sphingolipids, which contain large quantities of ceramides which are rich in linoleate.
  • linoleic acid is replaced with oleic acid, which causes a severe loss of water from the skin [59].
  • Moisturizing/emollient function The use of essential fatty acids is of considerable interest in treating skin which is dry due to excessive dehydration and unbalanced sebogenesis and of elderly skin with altered turnover.
  • Topical application for two to four weeks of creams containing percentages of essential fatty acids has revealed the biostimulating effects of such fatty acids, i.e.: reconstitution of the corneal layer, reduced loss of water due to increased membrane integrity, improved elasticity and sebogenesis. Under the action of this vitamin, the skin remains soft and most of all more imbibed due to a considerable reduction in loss of water through so-called "perspiratio insensibilis".
  • mice when the diet is completely deprived of essential fatty acids, the first change, after just one week, is the rapid reduction of linoleic and arachidonic acid in skin lipids. After five weeks, these acids are virtually absent from the skin and the animals begin to accumulate weight more slowly than the control, drink more water and the skin develops flakes. After approximately ten weeks of diet without essential fatty acids, the TEWL (TransEpidermal Water Loss) begins to rise rapidly to values ten times higher than in normal mice. As the quantity of linoleic and arachidonic acid decreases in the skin, the quantity of ⁇ -5,8,11- eicosatrienoic acid ( ⁇ -9) accumulates.
  • ⁇ -5,8,11- eicosatrienoic acid ⁇ -5,8,11- eicosatrienoic acid
  • This acid is normally present only in small amounts in the normal skins of mammals except when the amount of linoleic acid decreases (as in the onset of a deficit of essential fatty acids), where the enzymes which generally convert linoleic acid to arachidonic acid instead convert oleic acid into ⁇ -9 eicosatrienoic acid.
  • the latter is believed to form in order to support the total degree of unsaturation in phospholipidic membranes in the absence of essential fatty acids.
  • mice Microscopic changes in the skin of mice in conditions of essential fatty acid deficit are epidermal thickening, particularly the development of the granular layer and the thickening of the corneal layer. The latter becomes thicker and more tightly packed and adherent. Sebaceous glands, which are normally hyperplastic, with numerous large acinose structures, due to a deficit of fatty acids become more atrophied (fatty acids are transformed into triglycerides, promoting the storage of energy or precursors of sebum). The capillaries of the most superficial dermal layer become more dilated and the number of mastocytes and of mononuclear cells increases [58].
  • Prostaglandins are acknowledged widely as important in the inflammatory process as mediators of the slowing of vasoactivity; they are believed to be involved in the regulation of the different functions of leukocytes, such as the release of histamines on the part of basophils and the release of lysosomal enzymes from neutrophils. It has been found that prostaglandins might improve the formation of flakes on the skin in addition to being closely involved in the control of mitosis and differentiation as a consequence of their interaction with cyclic AMP and GTP.
  • Arachidonic acid is the origin of many messengers with pro- or antiinflammatory effects.
  • An increasing amount of experimental and clinical evidence suggests that PIJFAs n-3 can alleviate a series of inflammatory responses.
  • Eicosanoids derived from EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) act as antagonists of inflammation.
  • Studies on healthy volunteers show that supplements based on PUFA n-3 inhibited the production of IL- 1 , IL6, TNF and IL-2 on the part of white blood cells [61].
  • linoleic acid (n-6) and oleic acid (n-9) can modulate the healing of surgically induced skin wounds.
  • Oleic acid induces the closure of the wound more rapidly than linoleic and linolenic acid.
  • oleic acid inhibits greatly the production of nitric oxide at the level of the wound [64].
  • the ubiquity of zinc in organs, tissues and fluids of the body bears witness to its critical role in human development and health. Approximately 99% of the zinc that is present in the human body is located inside cells. Zinc is particularly predominant in the epidermis: the epidermis contains 20% of the zinc that is present in the entire body (71 ⁇ g/g dry weight) [65].
  • Zinc binds to a certain number of biological molecules, affecting their shape, stability and activity. It acts as a catalyst for enzymes responsible for
  • DNA replication gene transcription and protein synthesis. It has a critical role in the survival of cells, it regulates signal transduction, and DNA replication and transcription.
  • SOD superoxide dismutase
  • MT metallothionein
  • AP alkaline phosphatase
  • Zinc has the ability to inhibit the production of nitric oxide (NO). Nitric oxide can interact with the superoxide anion (O 2 " ), generating a cytotoxic agent which causes tissue damage which leads to skin inflammation. Moreover, zinc protects the skin against other oxygen radicals in view of its antioxidant properties. The mechanism of action by means of which zinc performs its antioxidant action is unknown.
  • the stable redox status of zinc might replace reactive redox metals such as iron and copper in critical cellular and extracellular sites, or zinc might induce synthesis of metallothionein, forming a zinc-thiolate portion which would act as a "sacrificial" site for oxidant attack, thus preserving the skin and its components. Therefore, the antioxidant protective effect provided by zinc relates to the stabilization of membrane lipids and to the prevention of peroxidation of lipids by free radicals [65,68].
  • Zinc has an anti-inflammatory function.
  • Zinc can also affect cytokines, cell messengers which intervene and facilitate communication with these cells. Zinc inhibits the degranulation of mastocytes, thus reducing the secretion of histamine, which is an important mediator of inflammation and pruritus.
  • An example of an enzyme involved in the regulation of inflammation is AP.
  • AP is released by the surface of epithelial cells and dephosphorylates AMP to generate adenosine.
  • Adenosine is a potent anti-inflammatory and is involved in the reduction of the inflammatory step of the healing of a wound [65].
  • Zinc has a significant role in modifying the extracellular matrix (ECM), in cell migration, in protein synthesis and in inflammation reduction [66, 67].
  • ECM extracellular matrix
  • Matrix metalloproteinases are a family of zinc-dependent proteins involved actively in wound repair. Matrix degradation is developed by MMPs, which specifically digest matrix proteins such as collagen, elastin, laminin, vitronectin and fibronectin. This degradation is the driving force behind tissue remodeling and facilitates the migration of new cells toward the wound. Zinc finger transcription factors cooperate with DNA polymerase and
  • RNA polymerase both of which are zinc-dependent enzymes
  • zinc stimulates the proliferation of cells of the epidermis, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and increases the synthesis of collagen.
  • Zinc is involved in the migration of keratinocytes during the first steps of healing and in epidermis-dermis cohesion during the final step of healing [66, 67]. It has a photoprotective function [68]. This function was observed after an in vitro test, in which fibroblasts were exposed to UVA and UVB rays.
  • Zinc reduces both the quantity of DNA damaged following exposure to UVB rays and the number of observed nucleosomes, which are considered as a true marker of cell apoptosis or cell death. It has beneficial effects on acne [65]. It is in fact capable of inhibiting the 5-alpha reductase enzyme. This enzyme is responsible for conversion of testosterone into the biologically active metabolite dihydrotestosterone, which mediates many of the actions typically assigned to androgenetic hormones, including stimulation of the activity of sebaceous glands. Moreover, zinc may be involved directly in the inhibition of bacterial lipase, which converts the triglycerides of sebum into fatty acids, which are the most potent mediators of acne.
  • the inventors have associated with the booster a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator which allows the plant extract, enhanced by the booster, to provide a higher capacity for benefit to the skin tissues with which it interacts.
  • This accelerator has been identified preferably in an extract which is produced biotechnologically starting from the microalgae Dunaliella salina.
  • This extract consists of an effective mixture of different molecules, such as amino acids and carbohydrates, which have the ability to replenish the skin with new energy.
  • the composition of the extract is the following: polysaccharides, trisaccharides, disaccharides, glucose, fructose, serine, histidine, glycine, threonine, arginine, alanine, tyrosine, valine, phenylalanine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine.
  • the extract contains a titer of active ingredient (as described above) from 1 to 5% by weight.
  • Dunaliella salina is a red unicellular microalgae: extremely rich in beta-carotene, it is useful for the skin due to its antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties. Its dimensions are as follows: length 16-24 ⁇ m, width 10-13 ⁇ m. Its natural habitat is constituted by salt lakes with 30% salinity (nine times higher than seawater). This small microalgae is exposed permanently to extreme living conditions, such as high osmotic pressures, high oxygen levels and intense UV irradiation. To deal with these conditions, the algae requires a large amount of energy, which is obtained by photosynthesis. The photosynthesis energy of the algae is obtained by sunlight.
  • the microalgae is selected to be converted into the metabolically active extract after being cultured in optimum growth conditions and after undergoing a special fermentation process in photobioreactors. The following are the production passages to obtain the final algae extract.
  • Dunaliella salina is selected during cell screening thanks to its capacity to energize cell metabolism, increasing levels of ATP and increasing cell multiplication in fibroblasts.
  • Dunaliella salina is cultured in photobioreactors in optimum growth conditions.
  • the concentrate is then diluted and preserved in an aqueous solution so as to obtain the finished product used for the invention.
  • the Dunaliella salina algae can be used advantageously in cosmetic treatments thanks to its ability to:
  • Mitochondrial stabilization test Human epidermal keratinocytes of the HaCaT line are cultured and incubated with different concentrations of Dunaliella salina extract (0.25%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%). The cells are marked with a JC-I fluorescent dye and then washed. Polarization of mitochondrial membranes is indicated by the emission of fluorescence, detected with a fluorimeter. Hydrogen peroxide (2 nM) is then added and fluorescence is detected again. Under the microscope, polarized mitochondria appear colored in orange-red, depolarized ones are colored in yellow-green.
  • Mitochondrial polarization with respect to the control increases in a dose-dependent manner (extract of Dunaliella salina 2% -> +55% approximately), demonstrating an action which protects against oxidation stresses caused by free radicals.
  • ATP synthesis test Human keratinocytes of the HaCaT line are cultured and incubated with different concentrations of Dunaliella salina extract (0.125%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%). The content of ATP is quantified by Cell Titer-Glo Luminescent cell viability assay. The extract of Dunaliella salina increases the content of ATP in keratinocytes in a dose-dependent manner (extract of Dunaliella salina 2% -> +43% approximately) with respect to the control.
  • Fibroblasts obtained from prepuce are cultured and incubated with different concentrations of extract of Dunaliella salina (0.5% and 1%). The amount of type I collagen is determined by using antibodies with a semiquantitative method (ELISA test).
  • the extract of Dunaliella salina increases the content of collagen I in a dose-dependent manner (extract of Dunaliella salina 1% -> +30% approximately) with respect to the control.
  • Dunaliella salina algae extract 1.0% Antioxidants and preservatives q.s.
  • the booster contained : Niacinamide (Vit. B3) 0.10%
  • Glyceryl arachinodate (Vit.F) 0.05% expressed as percentage by weight of the total product.
  • the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator is Dunaliella salina extract.
  • Corneometry in order to assess skin hydration, the amount of water present in the horny layer was measured on the right and left sides of the face (cheekbones) of the volunteers who took part in the test by using the CM 825 Corneometer (Courage + Khazaka).
  • Cosmetic product based on hydrating mallow without booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator
  • the cosmetic product based on hydrating mallow enhanced by a booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator induced a percentage increase in the amount of water present in the horny layer which was 129.52% higher than the percentage increase induced by the cosmetic product based on hydrating mallow without booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Cosmetic product based on hydrating mallow without booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator
  • composition of a product containing thyme enhanced by booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator
  • Corneometry in order to assess skin hydration, the amount of water present in the horny layer was measured on the right and left sides of the face (cheekbones) of the volunteers who took part in the test by using the
  • Sebometry the amount of sebum present on the surface of the skin was measured on the right and left sides of the face (cheekbones) of the volunteers who took part in the test by using the SM 810 Sebumeter
  • the product based on purifying thyme enhanced by booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator induced a percentage increase in the amount of water present in the horny layer which was 74.27% higher than the percentage increase induced by the product based on purifying thyme without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • the product based on purifying thyme enhanced by booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator induced a percentage decrease in the amount of sebum present on the surface of the skin which was 38.90% higher than the percentage decrease induced by the product based on purifying thyme without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • the cosmetic product based on purifying thyme enhanced by a booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator induced a 74.27% higher percentage increase in the amount of water present in the horny layer and a 38.90% higher percentage decrease in the amount of sebum present on the surface of the skin, with respect to what is induced by the cosmetic product based on purifying thyme without booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • Plantago lanceolata leaf extract Plant extract
  • the cosmetic activity of the two products was assessed with the following instrument-based measurement, performed initially and after 30 days of treatment:
  • Cosmetic product based on anti-wrinkle plantain enhanced by a booster and a cell turnover and metabolism accelerator The results obtained after 30 days of treatment, in instrument-based measurements performed on the right side of the face, pointed out the following:
  • - corneometrv the product being tested induced a 12.74% increase in the amount of water present in the horny layer, indicating an increase in skin hydration
  • ⁇ elastometry the product being tested induced a 5.96% increase in the values of ultimate elasticity (R2), indicating an increase in skin elasticity.
  • the inventors of the present invention have found that the activity of a plant extract for cosmetic use in the cosmetic preparation according to the present invention has increased synergistically due to the action of the enhancing or booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator component, which comprises one or more vitamins or fatty acids which compose vitamins, and zinc or zinc salts, biomineral complexes based on zinc or other forms of zinc which are biologically active and cosmetically acceptable, and the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • the enhancing or booster and cell turnover and metabolism accelerator component which comprises one or more vitamins or fatty acids which compose vitamins, and zinc or zinc salts, biomineral complexes based on zinc or other forms of zinc which are biologically active and cosmetically acceptable, and the cell turnover and metabolism accelerator.
  • the increased activity of any plant extract in a cosmetic preparation by using a formulation according to the present invention is surprisingly considerably higher than the effect expected on the basis of the individual activity of plant extracts which are not enhanced by the components of the formulation.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une formulation utilisée dans des préparations cosmétiques qui contiennent des extraits végétaux, laquelle formulation comprend un composant visant à renforcer l'activité d'extraits végétaux ou renforçateur, un accélérateur du renouvellement cellulaire et du métabolisme et éventuellement des excipients acceptables d'un point de vue cosmétique, lequel composant renforçateur comprend une ou plusieurs vitamines ou des acides gras qui composent des vitamines et du zinc ou des sels de zinc ou des complexes biominéraux à base de zinc ou d'autres formes de zinc qui sont biologiquement actives et cosmétiquement acceptables.
PCT/EP2008/052392 2007-03-01 2008-02-27 Formulation visant à accroître l'activité d'un extrait végétal pour usage cosmétique et préparation cosmétique contenant cette formulation WO2008104570A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08717197A EP2124871A2 (fr) 2007-03-01 2008-02-27 Formulation visant à accroître l'activité d'un extrait végétal pour usage cosmétique et préparation cosmétique contenant cette formulation

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00332/07A CH697547B1 (it) 2007-03-01 2007-03-01 Formulazione per aumentare l'attività di un fitoestratto di uso cosmetico e preparato cosmetico che la comprende.
CH00332/07 2007-03-01

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WO2008104570A2 true WO2008104570A2 (fr) 2008-09-04
WO2008104570A3 WO2008104570A3 (fr) 2008-10-30

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015013634A1 (fr) * 2013-07-25 2015-01-29 Eberting Cheryl Lee Formulations pour la réparation épidermique
EP2514401A3 (fr) * 2011-01-20 2016-05-18 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques contre la peau sèche
WO2019238914A1 (fr) * 2018-06-15 2019-12-19 Isp Investments Llc Procede d'obtention d'un extrait aqueux de dunaliella sauna et ses utilisations cosmetiques

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WO1995026183A1 (fr) * 1994-03-29 1995-10-05 Helsinki University Licensing Ltd Oy Composition cosmetique et pharmaceutique a base d'extrait de germes de ble
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US4704280A (en) * 1986-12-19 1987-11-03 Bates Harry L Cosmetic lotion
FR2676361A1 (fr) * 1991-05-17 1992-11-20 Oreal Procede pour accroitre l'activite d'un extrait de romarin constituant un actif dans une composition a usage cosmetique et/ou dermopharmaceutique et composition pour la mise en óoeuvre dudit procede.
FR2704390A1 (fr) * 1993-04-29 1994-11-04 Boiron Complément nutritionnel absorbable per-os destiné à améliorer la peau.
WO1995026183A1 (fr) * 1994-03-29 1995-10-05 Helsinki University Licensing Ltd Oy Composition cosmetique et pharmaceutique a base d'extrait de germes de ble
WO2003092711A1 (fr) * 2002-05-02 2003-11-13 E-L Management Corp. Technique permettant de renforcer l'activite biologique d'extraits de plante
EP1842429A2 (fr) * 2004-11-16 2007-10-10 Universidad Autonoma de Madrid Melange huileux d'ingredients bioactifs naturels pour la preparation d'un produit alimentaire enrichi

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MA'OR Z, MESHULAM-SIMON G, YEHUDA S, GAVRIELI JA: "Antiwrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects of a mineral-algal-botanical complex" J. COSMET. SCI., vol. 51, no. 1, 2000, pages 27-36, XP009105204 *

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2514401A3 (fr) * 2011-01-20 2016-05-18 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques contre la peau sèche
WO2015013634A1 (fr) * 2013-07-25 2015-01-29 Eberting Cheryl Lee Formulations pour la réparation épidermique
US11135184B2 (en) 2013-07-25 2021-10-05 Claridei Laboratories, Inc. Formulations for epidermal repair
US12233034B2 (en) 2013-07-25 2025-02-25 Claridei Laboratories, Inc. Formulations for epidermal repair
WO2019238914A1 (fr) * 2018-06-15 2019-12-19 Isp Investments Llc Procede d'obtention d'un extrait aqueux de dunaliella sauna et ses utilisations cosmetiques
FR3082431A1 (fr) * 2018-06-15 2019-12-20 Isp Investments Llc Procede d'obtention d'un extrait aqueux de dunaliella salina et ses utilisations cosmetiques
KR20210021376A (ko) * 2018-06-15 2021-02-25 아이에스피 인베스트먼츠 엘엘씨 두날리엘라 살리나의 수성 추출물을 수득하는 방법 및 이의 화장품 용도
KR102649579B1 (ko) 2018-06-15 2024-03-19 아이에스피 인베스트먼츠 엘엘씨 두날리엘라 살리나의 수성 추출물을 수득하는 방법 및 이의 화장품 용도

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WO2008104570A3 (fr) 2008-10-30
CH697547B1 (it) 2008-11-28

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