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WO2020260619A1 - Méthode de coloration de fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape de traitement par plasma froid desdites fibres - Google Patents

Méthode de coloration de fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape de traitement par plasma froid desdites fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020260619A1
WO2020260619A1 PCT/EP2020/068078 EP2020068078W WO2020260619A1 WO 2020260619 A1 WO2020260619 A1 WO 2020260619A1 EP 2020068078 W EP2020068078 W EP 2020068078W WO 2020260619 A1 WO2020260619 A1 WO 2020260619A1
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Prior art keywords
alkyl
acrylate
group
chosen
formula
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PCT/EP2020/068078
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English (en)
Inventor
Alexis LIARD
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2020260619A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020260619A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • TITLE Method for colouring keratin fibres comprising a step of cold plasma treatment of said fibres
  • the present invention relates to a method for colouring keratin fibres , in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising a step of cold plasma treatment of said keratin fibres , followed by steps of applying a particular oily dispersion on said keratin fibres , a composition comprising at least one amino compound and at least one dyestuff.
  • the present application further relates to a kit comprising a cold plasma generator and a device with at least two compartments containing a particular oily dispersion, a composition comprising at least one amino compound, and at least one dyestuff.
  • the first type of colouring is so-called permanent or oxidation colouring, which uses tinctorial compo sitions containing oxidation dye precursors , generally known as oxidation bases .
  • oxidation bases are colourless or lightly coloured compounds which, as sociated with oxidant substances , can produce coloured compounds by means of an oxidative condensation proces s .
  • the second type of colouring is so-called semi-permanent colouring or direct colouring, which consists of applying , on the keratin fibres , direct dyes which are coloured or colouring molecules having an affinity for said fibres, leaving to stand, and then rinsing .
  • This type of method does not require the use of an oxidant agent to develop the colour. However, it is pos sible to u se such an agent, in order to obtain a lightening effect with the colour. This is referred to as direct or semi-permanent colouring under lightening conditions .
  • Permanent or semi-permanent colouring methods under lightening conditions therefore require the use, with the tinctorial composition, of an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidant agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the large majority of cases .
  • the present invention which particularly relates to a method for colouring keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising:
  • one or more stabilising agents different from the or said ethylene polymer(s) (1), chosen from among:
  • composition (B) comprising one or more amino compounds chosen from among polyamino compounds comprising at least two groups chosen from among primary amines, secondary amines and mixtures thereof, amino alkoxysilanes and mixtures thereof;
  • steps (ii) , (iii) and (iv) can be carried out simultaneously or sequentially .
  • the cold plasma treatment generated in the first step of the method according to the invention, enhances the deposition of the dyestuffs and renders the latter particularly more resistant to external agents .
  • the colourings obtained have a satisfactory remanence to shampoo s .
  • the colourings and the treated keratin fibres are furthermore resistant to friction and other mechanical damage such as brushing, and combing . It should also be noted that the treated keratin fibres do not transfer the colour to fabrics and do not stain the scalp .
  • the keratin fibres have enhanced cosmetic properties , particularly in terms of texture and softnes s .
  • the method according to the invention makes it po ssible to obtain perfectly individualised fibres , suitable for being styled easily .
  • the present invention also relates to a kit comprising :
  • one or more stabilising agents different from the or said ethylene polymer(s) (1), chosen from among:
  • composition (B) comprising one or more amino compounds chosen from among polyamino compounds comprising at least two groups chosen from among primary amines, secondary amines and mixtures thereof, amino alkoxysilanes and mixtures thereof, and
  • alkyl radical is a linear or branched C ⁇ -Ce saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 4 such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and t-butyl;
  • (C 9 -C 22 )alkyl radical is a linear or branched saturated C 9 -C 22 hydrocarbon group, in particular C 10 -C 20, preferentially C 12 -C 18 , more preferentially C 12 -C 16, linear or branched, such as stearyl, behenyl, isodecyl, lauryl, hexadecyl, or myristyl;
  • alkylene radical is a linear or branched Ci-Cs divalent saturated hydrocarbon group, in particular C 1 -C 6, preferably C 1 -C 4 such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
  • cycloalkyl radical is a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings , preferably 2 rings , and comprising from 3 to 13 carbon atoms , preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms , such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, the cycloalkyl radical optionally being substituted by one or more (C i - C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group .
  • cyclic radical is a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non aromatic, cyclic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 3 rings , preferably 1 ring, and comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl or phenyl ;
  • an " aryl” radical is an aromatic unsaturated cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 12 carbons , mono or bicyclic , optionally fused, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring and having 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl;
  • aryloxy radical is an aryl-oxy i. e. aryl-O- radical where aryl is as defined above, preferably phenoxy ;
  • an " aryl( C 1 -C4 )alkoxy" radical is an aryl-(C 1 -C 4 )alkyl-0- radical, preferably benzoxy ;
  • keratin fibres denotes keratin fibres particularly hair which, after applying the composition and drying are not stuck (or are all separated from one another) together and therefore do not form clusters of fibres ;
  • insoluble monomer therefore denotes any monomer of which the homopolymer or copolymer, is not in soluble form, i.e. completely dis solved at a concentration greater than 5 % by weight at ambient temperature (20°C) in said medium.
  • the so-called “ insoluble " monomers may, as monomers, be soluble or insoluble in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) , it being understood that they become insoluble after polymerisation in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) ;
  • ethylene homopolymer denotes a polymer obtained from polymerising identical ethylene monomers
  • ethylene copolymer denotes a polymer obtained from polymerising monomers that are different from one another, in particular at least 2 monomers that are different from one another.
  • the ethylene copolymer according to the invention is obtained from 2 or 3 monomers that are different from one another, more preferentially obtained from 2 monomers that are different from one another;
  • soluble monomer denotes any monomer of which the homopolymer or copolymer, preferably homopolymer, is soluble at least at 5 % by weight, at 20°C, in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) of the dispersion.
  • the homopolymer is completely dis solved in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) , visually at 20 °C i.e . no deposition, or precipitate, or agglomerate, or insoluble sediment is visually observed .
  • the so-called “soluble " monomers may , as monomers, be soluble or insoluble in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ), it being understood that they become soluble after polymerisation in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) ;
  • fat denotes an organic compound insoluble in water at regular ambient temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pres sure (760 mm Hg) (solubility of less than 5 % and preferably 1 % even more preferentially 0. 1 % ) . They have in the structure thereof at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups . Furthermore, the fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pres sure conditions , such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane . These fats are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids as salified fatty acids form soaps generally soluble in aqueous media;
  • liquid fat denotes particularly a liquid fat at 25 °C and 1 atmo sphere, preferably said fat has a viscosity less than or equal to 7000 centipoises at 20°C;
  • hydrocarbon fat denotes a fat which comprises at least 50% by weight, particularly from 50 to 100% by weight, for example from 60 to 99% by weight, or indeed from 65 to 95% by weight, or even from 70 to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said fat, of carbon compound, liquid at 25°C, having an overall solubility parameter as per the HANSEN space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa)l/2, or of a mixture of such compounds;
  • solubility parameter d as per the HANSEN solubility space is defined in the article "Solubility parameter values” by Grulke, in the publication “Polymer Handbook” 3 rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519- 559 by the relation:
  • anhydrous dispersion or composition denotes a dispersion or composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and particularly free from water; if applicable, equally small quantities of water can particularly be provided by ingredients of the composition which can contain residual quantities thereof;
  • the colouring method according to the present invention comprises a step of treating said keratin fibres with cold plasma at atmo spheric pres sure ( 1 .013 - 10 5 Pa) .
  • cold plasma denotes a plasma at atmospheric pres sure which does not induce exces sive heating of the substrate exposed to the plasma, i.e. a plasma wherein the mean temperature remains close to the initial gas temperature (temperature before activating the plasma) and/or close to ambient temperature.
  • a “ cold plasma” is also known as “non-thermal plasma” or “ non-equilibrium plasma” .
  • the step of treating with cold plasma is preferably performed by moving a plasma generator, also known as a plasma production device, along said keratin fibres .
  • the cold plasma is preferably chosen from among direct DB D type plasmas generated by dielectric barrier discharges, FE-DB D type plasmas generated by floating electrode dielectric barrier discharges, jet plasmas, hybrid plasmas , needle plasmas , plasmas generated by corona effect, and plasmas generated using a piezoelectric generator, and more preferentially from among direct DB D type plasmas and plasmas generated u sing a piezoelectric generator.
  • a DBD plasma production device is characterised by the presence of an insulating dielectric material between the electrically conducting material of the electrode and the substrate.
  • the presence of this insulating dielectric material prevents the formation of an electric arc during the production of the electric field resulting in the plasma, because otherwise, all the energy is dis sipated in the electric arc and then only affects a small portion of the gas occupying the space between the electrode and the substrate.
  • the insulating dielectric material due to the position thereof between the electrically conducting material of the electrode and the substrate, will, from the application of the difference in potential between the electrically conducting material of the electrode and the sub strate, have on the surface an electrical charge that is : - negative, resulting from electron deposition, if the dielectric material is associated with the positively charged electrode, or,
  • the dielectric material will reduce the intensity of the electric field initially created to a value causing the plasma to extinguish.
  • the plasma may be present once again when another discharge may occur, i.e. after eliminating these charges adsorbed on the dielectric material, which is usually carried out by inverting the polarity between the electrodes .
  • the DB D type plasma is then not generated continuou sly but in the form of point discharges the frequency whereof will depend on the frequency of an alternating voltage applied to the generator electrode .
  • the colouring method according to the present invention further comprises a step of applying an oily dispersion (A) as defined above on said keratin fibres .
  • the oily dispersion (A) comprises ( 1 ) one or more particles including at least one ethylene polymer surface- stabilised by (2) at least one stabilising agent in a preferably anhydrou s medium, containing in (3 ) at least one hydrocarbon oil .
  • the dispersions according to the invention consist of particles , generally spherical, and at least one surface- stabilised polymer, in an anhydrous medium.
  • said particles ( 1 ) are not, or slightly , cros s-linked.
  • the oily dispersion (A) used in the colouring method according to the present invention comprises one or more particles including one or more ethylene polymers chosen from among:
  • ethylene homopolymers of (Ci-C 4 )alkyl (C i -C 4 )(alkyl)acrylate preferably ethylene homopolymers of (Ci-C 4 )alkyl (meth)acrylate
  • the particle(s) consist of an ethylene polymeric core obtained from homopolymers a) or copolymers b) or c) as defined above.
  • the ethylene polymer(s) of the particles (1) are chosen from among acrylate homopolymers a), resulting from the polymerisation of identical monomers of formula (la):
  • - R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci to CA alkyl group, such as methyl, and
  • - R’ represents a linear or branched Ci to CA alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl.
  • the monomers of formula (la) are Ci to CA alkyl acrylates, such as methyl acrylate.
  • the ethylene polymer(s) of the particles (1) are chosen from among acrylate copolymers b), resulting from the copolymerisation:
  • At least one monomer of formula (la) as defined above preferably a Ci to C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, more preferentially methyl (meth)acrylate or ethyl acrylate monomer, and
  • the quantity of acrylic acid monomer(s) ranges preferably from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of monomers of particles ( 1 ) , i .e . of monomers forming the polymeric core of the particles ( 1 ) .
  • the ethylene polymer is preferably an ethylene copolymer obtained from the copolymerisation of acrylic acid with one or more C i to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers .
  • the ethylene polymer(s) of the particles ( 1 ) are chosen from among acrylate ethylene copolymers c) , resulting from the copolymerisation :
  • the ethylene polymer(s ) of the particles ( 1 ) are copolymers obtained from the polymerisation of at least one C i to C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.
  • the C i to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer(s) are preferably chosen from among methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tertio-butyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof and more preferentially from among methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the C i to C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer(s) are C i to C 4 alkyl acrylate monomers, and more preferentially chosen from among methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer(s) are C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate monomers, more preferentially chosen from among methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably methyl methacrylate.
  • the ethylene polymer of the particles (1) is a copolymer resulting from the copolymerisation bl) of at least one (Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci- C4)(alkyl)acrylate, and b2) of at least one ethylene monomer comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups, such as benzyl.
  • the ethylene monomer(s) b2) comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups are chosen from among:
  • R 1 (R 2 )C C(R 3 )-Acid with R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a CO2H, H2PO4, or SO 3 H group, and Acid representing a carboxy group, a phosphoric acid or a sulphonic acid, preferably a carboxy group, it being understood that R 1 , R 2 and R 3 cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;
  • H2C C(R)-C(0)-N(R’)-Alk-Acid with R and R’, identical or different representing a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl group;
  • Aik representing a (C 1 -C 6 )alkylene group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from among Acid as defined above and hydroxy; and Acid being as defined above, preferably a carboxy group or a sulphonic acid;
  • R a , R b et R c identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C i to C4 alkyl group, preferably R a , R b , and R c are identical and represent a hydrogen atom;
  • the ethylene monomer(s) b2) are cho sen from among
  • the ethylene polymer of particles ( 1 ) is chosen from among the copolymers of (C i -C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid .
  • the ethylene monomer(s) b2) are chosen from among crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid, acrylic acid, the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the ethylene monomer b2) is acrylic acid.
  • the ethylene polymer(s) of the particles ( 1 ) are copolymers resulting from the copolymerisation b l ) of at least one C i to C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably chosen from among methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof and b2) of at least one ethylene monomer chosen from among maleic anhydrides of formula (4a) and (4b) as defined above.
  • the polymer particle(s) ( 1 ) of the dispersion (A) preferably have a numerical mean size ranging from 5 to 500 nm, more preferentially from 10 to 400 nm, and more preferably from 20 to 300 nm.
  • the final size of the polymer particles ( 1 ) is preferably greater than 100 nm.
  • a numerical mean size ranging from 100 nm and 500 nm; more particularly ranging from 150 nm to 400 nm, and even more particularly ranging from 160 nm to 300 nm.
  • the mean size of the particles ( 1 ) is determined using conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. For example, mention may be made of the granulometry method which may be carried out by means of a MALVERN NanoZS apparatus .
  • the method used may be dynamic light scattering (DLS ) , also known as quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS ) , nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA) , laser diffraction (LD) , particle size distributions from nanometres to millimetres , and spatial filter velocimetry .
  • DLS dynamic light scattering
  • QELS quasi-elastic light scattering
  • NTA nanoparticle tracking analysis
  • LD laser diffraction
  • particle size distributions from nanometres to millimetres and spatial filter velocimetry .
  • the sample is pipetted into a single-use plastic vessel (4 transparent faces , 1 cm side and 4 mL capacity) placed in the measurement cell.
  • the sample is analysed on the basis of a cumulant method which results in a unimodal particle size distribution characterised by an intensity mean diameter d(nm) and a size polydispersity factor Q.
  • the monomers suitable for forming the polymeric core of the particle i) are chosen from among the insoluble monomers in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ) of the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the insoluble monomers represent preferably 100% by weight, of the total weight of the monomers forming the polymeric core of the particle.
  • the total content of the or said ethylene polymer particle(s) , present in the oily dispersion (A) ranges preferably from 20 to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 25 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) used in the colouring method according to the present invention further comprises one or more stabilising agents (2), different from the ethylene polymer(s) defined above, chosen from among:
  • a single type of stabilising agent (2) is used in the method according to the invention.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are chosen from among d) ethylene homopolymers of (C 9 - C 22 )alkyl (C 1 -C 6 )(alkyl)acrylate, in particular from among ethylene homopolymers of (C 9 -C is)alkyl (C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)acrylate, preferably from among ethylene homopolymers of (C 9 -C 22 )alkyl (meth)acrylate, and more preferentially from among ethylene homopolymers of (C 9 - Cis)alkyl (meth)acrylate.
  • R represents an isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl group.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are chosen from among e) ethylene copolymers of (C 9 -C 22 )alkyl (C 1 -C 6 )(alkyl)acrylate and of (Ci-C 4 )alkyl (Ci- C 4 )(alkyl)acrylate, preferably from among copolymers of (C 9 -C is)alkyl (C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)acrylate and of (Ci-C 4 )alkyl (C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)acrylate, and more preferentially from among copolymers of (C 9 -C is)alkyl (meth)acrylate and of (Ci-C 4 )alkyl (meth)acrylate.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are chosen from among ethylene copolymers e) of formula (Ila) and (lib):
  • R identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C i to C4 alkyl group, such as methyl,
  • - R’ represents a linear or branched C i to C 4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R represents a linear or branched C 9 to C 22 , preferably C 10 to C 20 alkyl group , and in particular a (C 2 n )alkyl group with n representing an integer equal to 5 , 6, 7 , 8 , 9, or 10.
  • R represents an isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl group .
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are cho sen from among copolymers obtained from the copolymerisation of monomers cho sen from among isodecyl (meth)acrylates , lauryl (meth)acrylates , stearyl (meth)acrylates , hexadecyl (meth)acrylates, behenyl (meth)acrylates, and C i to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates , preferably methyl (meth)acrylate.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are cho sen from among copolymers obtained from the copolymerisation of monomers cho sen from among isodecyl (meth)acrylates , lauryl (meth)acrylates , stearyl (meth)acrylates, hexadecyl (meth)acrylates , and C i to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate or ethyl (meth)acrylate.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are cho sen from among homopolymers of isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hexadecyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate and statistical copolymers of isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hexadecyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate and C i to C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably present according to a weight ratio of lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylate / C 1 -C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate greater than 4.5.
  • said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15 , more preferentially said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are cho sen from among ethylene copolymers e) obtained from the copolymerisation of at least one monomer of formula (lib) as defined above and of at least two monomers , different from one another, of formula (Ila) as defined above.
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) are cho sen from among copolymers obtained from the copolymerisation:
  • the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates / C i to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate is greater than 4.
  • said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 10, more preferentially said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 7.
  • the weight ratio defined makes it pos sible to obtain a stable polymer dispersion, particularly after a storage of 7 days at ambient temperature.
  • the oily dispersion (A) includes from 2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 4 to 25 % by weight, and particularly from 5.5 to 20% by weight of (C 9 - C 22)alkyl (C 1 -C 6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers comprised in d) or e) soluble in the hydrocarbon oil(s) (3 ), with respect to the total weight of soluble and insoluble polymers contained in said oily dispersion (A) .
  • the weight ratio between the content of the stabilising agent(s) (2) , different from the ethylene polymers and the content of the ethylene polymer particle(s) ( 1 ) , present in the oily dispersion (A) ranges from 0.5 to 2, and preferably this weight ratio is equal to 1 .
  • the stabilising agent(s) (2) and the particle(s) i) have a numerical mean molecular weight (Mn) between 1000 and 1 ,000,000 g/mol, particularly between 5000 and 500,000 g/mol and more preferably between 10,000 and 300,000 g/mol.
  • the dispersion (A) according to the invention is finally formed of polymeric particles, of relatively large diameter i .e. preferably greater than 100 nm, and gives rise to film-forming , glos sy and fat- resistant deposits at ambient temperature (25 °C) , of particular interest for makeup applications .
  • the oily dispersion (A) used in the colouring method according to the present invention further comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils .
  • This oil may be volatile (vapour pressure greater than or equal to 0. 13 Pa measured at 25 °C) or non-volatile (vapour pressure les s than 0. 13 Pa, measured at 25 °C) .
  • the hydrocarbon oil is volatile.
  • the hydrocarbon oil is a hydrocarbon liquid fat at ambient temperature (25 °C) and at atmo spheric pres sure.
  • the hydrocarbon oil is preferably chosen from among :
  • C s to C 1 6 branched alkanes such as C s to C ⁇ e isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4 ,6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls ;
  • C 1 6 linear alkanes for example such as n-dodecane (C 1 2) and n- tetradecane (C ) sold by S asol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 , as well as the mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C n ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application W02008/ 155059 of the company Cognis , and mixtures thereof;
  • esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total
  • esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol wherein the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C e to C 24 , the latter optionally being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are particularly triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or indeed wheatgerm, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, Hokkaido pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candleberry, pas sion flower, musk rose oils ; shea butter; or indeed caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those
  • R i represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R i + R2 is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 to C 15 alcohol benzoates , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl- decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates , octanoates, decanoates or
  • the hydrocarbon oil is nonpolar (therefore formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms) , and preferably, it is chosen by the hydrocarbons .
  • the hydrocarbon oil is preferably cho sen from among hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms , more preferentially from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably nonpolar oils .
  • the hydrocarbon oil is chosen from among C s to C 1 6 , and preferably C 12 to C i 6 linear or branched alkanes , more preferentially chosen from among C s to C i 6 , and preferably C 12 to C i 6 , branched alkanes .
  • the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.
  • the hydrocarbon oil(s), present in the oily dispersion (A) and more preferentially where this oil is isododecane, form the only oil(s) of the oily dispersion (A) , or are present in a majority content with respect to any additional oils presented in the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the total content of the hydrocarbon oil( s), present in the oily dispersion (A) according to the invention ranges preferably from 20 to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 30 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) according to the invention may be prepared as follows : the polymerisation is performed in " dispersion " , i.e. by precipitating the ethylene copolymer under formation, with protection of the particles formed with one or more stabilising agents , preferably with one stabilising agent.
  • the stabilising agent b) is prepared by mixing the monomer(s) forming said stabilising agent with a radical initiator, in a solvent known as synthesis solvent, and by polymerising said monomers .
  • the monomers forming the ethylene copolymer of the particles a) are added to the stabilising agent formed in the preceding step, and said added monomers are polymerised in the presence of the radical initiator.
  • the polymerisation may be performed in a non-polar organic solvent (synthesis solvent) , then the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (which mu st be miscible with said synthesis solvent) added and the synthesis solvent distilled selectively .
  • synthesis solvent non-polar organic solvent
  • the dyestuff(s) chosen from among pigments , direct dyes and mixtures thereof, are comprised in the oily dispersion (A) , they may be added during the first step . According to a further alternative embodiment, the dyestuff(s) is/are added during the second step or after the second step .
  • a synthesis solvent is preferably cho sen wherein the monomers of the stabilising agent and the radical initiator are soluble, whereas the ethylene copolymer particles obtained are insoluble so that they precipitate during the formation thereof.
  • a synthesis solvent which is nonpolar organic is cho sen, and preferably chosen from among alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane .
  • the polymerisation may be performed directly in said oil which also acts as a synthesis solvent.
  • the monomers of the stabilising agent and the radical initiator must also be soluble therein, and the ethylene copolymer of the particles obtained must be insoluble therein.
  • the monomers of the ethylene copolymer are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymerisation, at a rate of 5 to 45 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the reaction mixture. All of said monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or some of said monomers may be added as the polymerisation reaction retard ses .
  • the polymerisation is preferentially performed in the presence of one or more radical initiators particularly of the following types :
  • - peroxide in particular chosen from among tert-Butyl peroxy-2- ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21 S ; 2,5 -dimethyl-2,5-di(2- ethylhexanoylperoxy)hexane: Trigonox 141 ; tertbutyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel ; or
  • - azo in particular chosen from among AIB N: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2’ -azo-bis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride.
  • the polymerisation is preferably performed at a temperature ranging from 70 to 1 10°C and at atmospheric pres sure.
  • the ethylene copolymer particles a) are surface-stabilised, during polymerisation thanks to the stabilising agent b) .
  • the stabilisation may be performed by any known means , and in particular by direct addition of the stabilising agent b) during polymerisation.
  • the stabilising agent ii) is preferably present in the mixture before polymerising the monomers of the ethylene copolymer a) .
  • stabilising agent(s) a) it is particularly pos sible to use 10 to 30% by weight of the stabilising agent(s) a) with respect to the total weight of monomers used (stabilising agents ii) + ethylene copolymers i)) , and preferably from 15 to 25 % by weight.
  • the oily dispersion (A) according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.
  • anhydrous compo sition denotes a composition containing les s than 2 % by weight of water, or les s than 0.5 % of water, and particularly free from water. If applicable, equally small quantities of water may particularly be provided by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual quantities thereof.
  • the dispersion (A) is in a reverse emulsion i .e. water in oil (W/O) type .
  • the composition comprises one or more surfactants , preferably non-ionic .
  • the colouring method according to the present invention further comprises a step of applying a compo sition (B ) as defined above on said keratin fibres .
  • composition (B ) used in the colouring method according to the present invention comprises one or more amino compounds chosen from among polyamino compounds comprising at least two groups cho sen from among primary amines, secondary amines and mixtures thereof, amino alkoxysilanes , and mixtures thereof.
  • the amino compound(s) suitable for use in the composition (B ) according to the invention are particularly chosen from among diamino compounds , triamino compounds, amino alkoxysilane compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyamino compounds comprising at least two groups chosen from among primary amines, secondary amines and mixtures thereof, may be chosen from among non-polymeric polyamino compounds , polymeric polyamino compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • non-polymeric compound denotes a compound which is not directly obtained by means of a monomer polymerisation reaction.
  • polymeric compound denotes a compound which is obtained by means of a monomer polymerisation reaction.
  • the amino compound(s) are preferably cho sen from among non-polymeric polyamino compounds, comprising at least two groups chosen from among primary amines , secondary amines and mixtures thereof, and comprising preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms .
  • N-methyl- 1 ,3 -diaminopropane N- propyl 1 ,3 -diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1 ,3 -diaminopropane, N- cyclohexyl 1 ,3 -diaminopropane, 2-(3 -aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3 -(2- aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3 -aminopropyl)amine, methyl bis(3 - aminopropyl)amine, N-(3 -aminopropyl)- l ,4-diaminobutane, N,N- dimethyldipropylene, tri amine, 1 , 2 -bis (3 -aminopropyl amino) ethane, N,N’-bis(3-aminopropyl
  • the amino compound(s) are preferably chosen from among amino alkoxysilanes and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from among compounds of formula (III) below:
  • R’ 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, Ci to Cio alkyl chain, substituted by one or more groups chosen from among the following groups:
  • R’ 1 being optionally interrupted in the alkyl chain thereof by one or more heteroatoms (particularly O, S, NH), a carbonyl group (CO), or the association thereof such as ester -C(0)-0- or amide -C(0)-NH-, R’ 1 being bound to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,
  • R’ 2 and R’3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C 6 alkyl chain
  • R’ 2 represents a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl chain, more preferentially a Ci to C4 linear alkyl chain, and more preferably an ethyl group.
  • R’3 represents a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl chain, more preferentially a Ci to C4 linear alkyl chain, and more preferably a methyl or ethyl group.
  • R’ i represents an acyclic group.
  • R’ 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to Ce acyclic alkyl chain, substituted by an amine group NH2 or N(H)R with R representing a Ci to Ce alkyl group, a C3 to Ce cycloalkyl group or C 6 aromatic group.
  • R’ 1 represents a saturated linear Ci to C 6 , preferably C2 to C4, substituted by an amine group NH2.
  • amino compound(s) are chosen from among compounds of formula (III) for which:
  • R’ 1 represents a saturated linear Ci to Ce alkyl group substituted by an amine group NH2,
  • R’2 represents a linear or branched Ci to C4 alkyl group
  • R’3 represents a linear or branched Ci to C4 group
  • z is equal to 3.
  • the amino compound(s) are chosen from among 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxy silane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3- amino propyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m- aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxy silane, p- aminophenyltrimethoxy silane, N- (2 -amino ethyl amino methyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from among 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3- aminoethyltriethoxy silane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof; and more preferably the amino compound is
  • the amino compound(s) are preferably chosen from among polymeric polyamino compounds (also known as polyamino polymers), and more preferentially from among polyamino polymers having a mean molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1,000,000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500,000, and preferentially ranging from 500 to 100,000.
  • polymeric polyamino compounds also known as polyamino polymers
  • polyamino polymers suitable for use according to this further embodiment mention may particularly be made of: - poly((C2-C5)alkylene imines), and in particular polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines , particularly poly(ethylene imines) (for example that sold under the reference 46,852-3 by the company Aldrich Chemical);
  • polyamino acids having NH2 groups such as polylysine, for example that sold by the company JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso);
  • polydi(C 1 -C4)alkylsiloxanes in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising amine groups at chain end or on side chains, preferably terminal or lateral amino(C 1 -C 6 )alkyl groups such as aminopropyl, and more particularly those of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (IVc):
  • R a , and R b identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C 1 -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C 1 -C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C 1 -C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl, R c and R’ c , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, an amino(C i -C4)alkyl or (Ci- C4)alkylamino(C i -C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom or an amino(C i -C4)alkyl group such as aminoethyl,
  • X represents a covalent bond or an oxygen atom, preferably a covalent bond
  • ALK and ALK’ identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably (C i -C4)alkylene such as propylene; n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IVa) is between 500 and 55,000;
  • polydi(C i -C4)alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVa) are of the following formula (IV’a):
  • aminosilicone (IVa) or (IV’a) By way of example of aminosilicone (IVa) or (IV’a), mention may be made of those sold under the trade names "DMS-All", “DMS-A12", “DMS-A15”, “DMS-A21”, “DMS-A31”, “DMS-A32”, “DMS-A35” by the company GELEST;
  • R c , R’ c , ALK, ALK’, and n are as defined above for (IVa).
  • ALK and ALK’ are identical and represent a (C 1 -C4)alkylene group such as propylene
  • R c and R’ c are identical and represent an amino(C i -C4)alkyl group such as aminoethyl.
  • Dimethoxy silyl Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone (RN: 71750-80-6), under the trade name GP-RA-157, marketed by Genesee Polymers.
  • R a , R b , and R d identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C i -C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C i -C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl, R d may also represent a (Ci-C 6 )alkyl group substituted by a (C i -C4)alkylamino or amino group,
  • R c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom
  • ALK represents a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably (C i -C4)alkylene such as propylene;
  • n and m identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values of m and n are such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IVb) is between 1000 and 55,000;
  • polydi(C i -C4)alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVb) are of the following formula (IV’b)
  • R a and R b identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C i -C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C i -C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl,
  • R d represents a (Ci-C 6 )alkyl group optionally substituted by a (Ci- C4)alkylamino or amino group, preferably (C i -C4)alkyl, such as isobutyl, terbutyl or n-butyl,
  • R c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom
  • ALK represents a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably (Ci- C4)alkylene such as propylene;
  • n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IVc) is between 500 and 5000;
  • polydi(C i -C4)alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVc) are of the following formula (IV’c):
  • R a , and R b identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C i -C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C i -C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl,
  • R c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably hydrogen atom
  • R e represent a hydroxy, (C i -C4)alkoxy , amino, (C i -C4)alkylamino group
  • R f represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, a hydroxy group or -0-(SiR 2 ) x -R’ with R representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl or (C i -C4)alkoxy group and R’ representing a (Ci- C4)alkoxy or hydroxy group, preferably R f represents a (C i -C4)alkyl, (C 1 -C4)alkoxy group, or -0-(SiR 2 ) x -R’ with R representing a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl and R’ a hydroxy or (C i -C4)alkoxy group such as methoxy,
  • R g represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C 6 )alkyl group
  • ALK and ALK’ identical or different, represent a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably (C i -C4)alkylene such as ethylene or propylene; n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2, p and x are integers greater than or equal to 0, preferably p is between 2 and 20 and more particularly the values of m, n, p and x are such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IVe) is between 2000 and 700,000, preferentially between 5000 and 500,000;
  • the amodimethicones of formula (IVd) are of the following formulas (IV’d), (IV”d) or (IV”’d):
  • ALK represents a (C 1 -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably ethylene
  • ALK’ represents a (C 1 -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably propylene, and m, n and p represent integers greater than 2, where m and n and p are such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IV’d) is between around 5000 and 500,000; preferably, p represents an integer between 8 and 20;
  • R a , and R b identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl,
  • R c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably hydrogen atom,
  • R g represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group
  • R f represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, (C i -C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, or -0-(SiR 2 ) x -R’ with R representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl and R’ a hydroxy or (C i -C4)alkoxy group such as methoxy,
  • R g represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C 6 )alkyl group
  • ALK represents a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably ethylene
  • ALK’ represents a (C i -C 6 )alkylene group, preferably propylene, n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2, x is an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the values of m, n, and x are such that the mean molecular weight by weight of the compound of formula (IV”d) is between 2000 and 700,000, preferentially between 5000 and 500,000;
  • the amodimethicones and trimethylsiloxyamodimethicones belonging to formulas (IV”d) and (IV”’d) are for example the amodimethicones and trimethylsiloxyamodimethicones of the ADM type sold by the company Wacker-Belsil ® , mention may also be made of Polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoethylaminopropyl groups, with methoxy and/or hydroxy and alpha-omega silanol function in cationic aqueous emulsion at 60% (S upplier reference: XIAMETER MEM- 8299 EMULS ION for DOW CORNING or Supplier reference: B ELS IL ADM 4000 E for WACKER) ;
  • - polyether amines particularly known under the reference JEFFAMINE of the company HUNSTMAN; and particularly : Polyethyleneglycol and/or polypropyl eneglycol a, co-diamines (with chain-end amine function) such as tho se sold under the trade names JEFFAMINE D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003 ;
  • - polyamidoamine dendrimers with terminal amine functions ;
  • - poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides carrying lateral primary or secondary amine functions such as poly(3 - aminopropyl)methacrylamide, poly(2-aminoethyl) methacrylate.
  • the amino compound(s) are chosen from among chitosans, polydi(C i - C4)alkylsiloxanes comprising chain-end or side-chain amine groups , amodimethicones and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from among chitosans , polydi(C i -C4)alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVa) , amodimethicones of formula (IVd) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from among chitosans , polydi(C i -C4 )alkylsiloxanes of formula (IV’a) , amodimethicones of formula (IV’d) and mixtures thereof.
  • amino compound(s) are advantageously chosen from among chitosans , polydi(C i -C4 )alkylsiloxanes of formula (IV”a) , amodimethicones of formula (IV”d) and mixtures thereof
  • the content of said amino compounds(s) , present in the composition (B ) according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the compo sition .
  • composition (B ) used in the colouring method according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more hydrocarbon oils as define above .
  • the hydrocarbon oil(s) optionally present in the composition (B ) are advantageously chosen from among hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.
  • composition (B ) comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils
  • the latter are preferably identical to those comprised in the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the composition (B ) used in the colouring method according to the invention is aqueous or hydroalcoholic .
  • hydroalcoholic composition denotes a composition which comprises a mixture of water and linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanol, preferably ethanol.
  • the colouring method according to the present invention further comprises a step of applying on said keratin fibres one or more dyestuff(s) chosen from among pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, the or said dyestuff(s) being present in the oily dispersion (A) and/or in the composition (B) and/or in a composition (C).
  • the composition (C), in which the dyestuff(s) may be present is an additional composition, different from the oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B)
  • the dyestuff(s) are chosen from among pigments.
  • pigment denotes all pigments adding colour to keratin materials.
  • the solubility thereof in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%. More particularly, the pigment is slightly or not soluble in hydroalcoholic media.
  • pigment By way of pigment, mention may be made of organic and inorganic pigments as defined and described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Pigment organics", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007. a20371 and ibid, "Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General” 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a20_243.pub3.
  • They may particularly be monoazo, of which b-Naphthols, monoazopyrrolone pigments, Benzimidazolone pigments; diazo pigments such as diazodiarylide pigments and B is(N-acetoacetarylides) , triazo or tetra-azo pigments .
  • azo metal complex pigments Mention may also be made of azo metal complex pigments .
  • Further pigments are also of interest, these consist of Isoindolinone and Isoindoline pigments, Phthalocyanine pigments ; Quinacridone pigments ; Perinone pigments ; Perylene pigments ; Anthraquinone pigments such as Hydroxyanthraquinone pigments ; Aminoanthraquinone pigments of which Acylaminoanthraquinones and Azo Anthraquinones ; Heterocyclic Anthraquinones ; polycarbocyclic Anthraquinone pigments, Pyranthrone pigments ; Anthanthrone pigments ; Diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) pigments ; Thioindigo pigments ; Dioxazine pigments ; Triphenylmethane pigments ; Quinophthalone pigments ; and Fluorescent pigments .
  • Isoindolinone and Isoindoline pigments Phthalocyanine
  • the dyes comprise one or more solubilising groups such as -S O 3 H, -COOH
  • these dyes are rendered insoluble and hence pigments by lake formation i .e. by salification (e.g . Na, Ca, St, B a, etc . ) and divi ded essentially into b-naphthol and 2-hydroxy-3 -naphthoic acid pigments " (B ON) pigment lakes " .
  • the pigment may be at least in part organic .
  • the pigment is an organic pigment.
  • the pigment is a mineral pigment.
  • microcapsules according to the invention comprise at most 80% by weight of the pigment with respect to the weight of the polymeric matrix.
  • they may comprise from 0.5 to 75 % by weight, for example from 1 to 70% by weight, particularly from 20 to 65 % by weight, or from 30 to 60% by weight with respect to the weight of polymeric matrix.
  • the encapsulation rate is dependent on the modulation of the shade sought and may therefore vary significantly according to the effect sought.
  • the pigments suitable for use in the present invention mention may be made of carbon black, titanium oxide, chromium oxide, D&C, FD&C type pigments and lakes thereof, and particularly those known under the trade names D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, FD&C Green No.3, D&C Green No.5, D&C Green No.6, FD&C Green No.8, 20 D&C Orange No.4, D&C Orange No.5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No.
  • lakes By way of example of lakes, mention may particularly be made of lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium, or indeed diketopyrrolopyrroles.
  • pigments suitable for use in the present invention mention may particularly be made of mineral pigments, optionally surface-treated and/or coated, and particularly titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or indeed metal powders such as aluminium powder, copper powder, gold powder and silver powder.
  • optical effect pigments such as particles including a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being optionally coated with metal substances such as aluminium, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or chromium oxide.
  • a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral substrate for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas
  • metal substances such as aluminium, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or chromium oxide.
  • Pearlescent pigments may also be u sed.
  • pearlescent pigments denotes iridescent pigments, particularly produced by some molluscs in their shell or indeed synthesised.
  • the pearlescent pigments may be chosen from among mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with iron oxides , mica titanium coated with particularly ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with an organic pigment of the type cited above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride .
  • Interference pigments, particularly with liquid crystals or multilayers may also be u sed.
  • They may also consist of pigments having a structure which may be for example of the sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type.
  • They may also consist of pigments having a structure which may be for example of the silica micro sphere type containing iron oxide.
  • pigments particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention mention may particularly be made of D&C Red No . 7 , titanium oxide, chromium oxide, lakes of the D&C and FD&C pigments cited above, and particularly D&C Red No . 22 lake, Yellow No . 6 lake, FD&C B lue No . 1 lake.
  • the pigments according to the invention may be presented in the form of pigment powder or paste . They may be coated or uncoated.
  • the pigments according to the invention may for example by cho sen from among white or coloured pigments, lakes , pigments with special effects such as pearlescent pigments or flakes , and mixtures thereof.
  • white or coloured mineral pigments By way of examples of white or coloured mineral pigments , mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides , chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • white or coloured organic pigments mention may be made of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.
  • the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from among carmine, carbon blacks such as Black 2, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments classified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000,
  • carbon blacks such as Black 2 or lakes such as D&C
  • Organic pigment pastes may be used, such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
  • pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in the patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed particularly of particles including :
  • lake denotes colorants adsorbed on insoluble particles , the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use .
  • the organic substrates whereon the colorants are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
  • special-effect pigments denotes pigments creating as a general rule a non-uniform and changing coloured appearance (characterised by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain clarity) according to the observation conditions (light, temperature, ob servation angles , etc . ) . They are thereby opposed to white or coloured pigments which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or with bismuth oxychloride
  • coloured pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides , mica coated with titanium and particularly ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • interference-effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicone HC from Wacker) , holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek) .
  • the special-effect pigments also comprise fluorescent pigments , whether these are fluorescent substances in daylight or substances producing ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments , photochromic pigments , thermochromic pigments and quantum dots , marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
  • Quantum dots are light-emitting semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature . In particular, they may be manufactured according to the methods described for example in US 6 225 198 or US 5 990 479 , in the publications cited therein, as well as in the following publications : Dabbou ssi B . O . et al " (CdS e)ZnS core- shell quantum dots : synthesis and characterisation of a size series of highly luminescent nanocry stallites " Journal of physical chemistry B, vol 101, 1997, pp 9463 -9475.
  • the pigments according to the invention are preferably coloured pigments .
  • the size of a pigment other than pearlescent pigments in solution i s generally between 10 nm and 10 pm, preferably between 50 nm and 5 pm, and even more preferentially between 1 00 nm and 3 pm .
  • the size of a pearl escent pigment in solution i s generally between 1 and 200 pm, preferably between 1 and 80 pm, and even more preferentially between 1 and 50 pm.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made by way of example of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase) optionally surface-treated and classified in the Color Index under the reference CI77891; black, yellow red and brown iron oxides, classified under the references CI77499, 77492, 77491; manganese violet (CI77742); ultramarine blue (CI77007); chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289); ferric blue (CI77510).
  • titanium dioxide rutile or anatase
  • manganese violet CI77742
  • ultramarine blue CI77007
  • chromium oxide hydrate CI77289
  • ferric blue CI77510
  • pigment YELLOW 3 sold particularly under the trade name "JAUNE COVANOR W 1603" by the company WACKHERR (Cl 17710), "D & C RED No. 19” (Cl 45170), “D & C RED No.9 (Cl 15585), “D & C RED No.21” (Cl 45380), “D & C ORANGE No.4" (Cl 15510), “D & C ORANGE No.5" (Cl 45370), “D & C RED No.27” (CI45410), "D & C RED No.
  • Pearlescent pigments may also be used which may be particularly chosen from among white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxide; coloured pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium with an organic pigment of the type cited above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxide
  • coloured pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica titanium with an organic pigment of the type cited above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • Organic pigment pastes are more particularly used, such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
  • the dyestuff(s) is/are advantageously chosen from among pigments, preferably from among white organic pigments, coloured organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially carbon blacks, such as Black 2, lakes, such as D&C Red 7, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dyestuff(s) may be chosen from among direct dyes.
  • direct dye denotes natural and/or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These dyes will diffuse superficially on the fibre.
  • They may be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
  • These direct dyes are for example chosen from among neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, tetraazapentamethinic dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone dyes, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethanic direct dyes, azomethinic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
  • Suitable direct dyes By way of examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methinic dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryl; carbonyl; azinic; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri - (hetero)aryl methane dyes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
  • the direct dye(s) contain at least one quaternised cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore carrying a quaternised or quaternisable cationic group.
  • the direct dyes comprise at least one quaternised cationic chromophore.
  • acridine dyes By way of direct dye according to the invention, mention may be made of acridine dyes; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azo, hydrazono or hydrazone, in particular arylhydrazone dyes; azomethines; benzanthrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethane
  • cationic azo dyes mention may particularly be made of those derived from cationic dyes described in the Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Dyes, Azo", J. Wiley & sons, updated on 19/04/2010.
  • azo dyes suitable for use according to the invention mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in the patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.
  • the direct dye(s) are chosen from among the cationic dyes known as "basic dyes".
  • cationic quinone dyes those mentioned in Colour Index International cited above are suitable, and among these, mention may be made inter alia of the following dyes:
  • the cationic direct dyes are chosen from among those obtained from azo, and hydrazono type dyes.
  • the direct dyes are cationic azo dyes, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385, EP 850637, EP 918053, WO 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 2538363, FR 2189006, FR 1560664, FR 1540423, FR 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1221122, DE 4220388,
  • the cationic direct dyes comprise a quaternary ammonium group, more preferentially the cationic charge is endocyclic.
  • cationic radicals are for example a cationic radical:
  • endocyclic charge such as comprising a cationic heteroaryl group: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, bis-tetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyry
  • Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially with endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially by at least one (Ci- Cs)alkyl group such as methyl;
  • Ar + represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with preferentially ammonium exocyclic cationic charge particularly tri(Ci- C 8 )alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
  • Ar represents an aryl group, particularly phenyl, optionally substituted, preferentially by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (C i-Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted, ii) (C i -Cs)alkoxy, optionally substituted, iii) (di)(C i -Cs)(alkyl)amino, optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C i -Cs)alkylamino, v) N- (C i -Cs)alkyl-N-aryl(C i -Cs)alkylamino, optionally substituted, or then Ar represents a julolidine group;
  • Ar represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, optionally substituted, preferentially by one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C i -Cs)(alkyl)amino, (Ci- Cs)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
  • R a and R b identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Cs)alkyl group, optionally substituted, preferentially by a hydroxyl group;
  • R a with a substituent of Het + and/or R b with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms carrying same a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly R a and R b , representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;
  • Q represents an organic or mineral counterion such as a halide or an alkylsulphate.
  • V-i (VIII- 1) formulas (V-l) and (VIII-1) wherein:
  • R 1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl
  • R 2 and R 3 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C 1 -Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted, (C i -Cs)alkoxy, optionally substituted, (di)(C i -Cs)(alkyl)amino, optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R 4 is a hydrogen atom,
  • - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH
  • - Q is an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkylsulphate such as methylsulphate or mesytyl.
  • the dyes of formula (III- 1 ) and (V-l) are chosen from among Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or the derivatives thereof:
  • Q’ is an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkylsulphate such as methylsulphate or mesytyl.
  • the direct dyes are fluorescent, i.e. they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above .
  • fluorescent dyes By way of fluorescent dyes , mention may be made of the radical derived from acridine, acridone, benzanthrone, benzimidazole, benzimidazolone, benzindole, benzoxazole, benzopyran, benzothiazole, coumarin, difluoro j 2- [(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN)methyl] - l H-pyrrolato- kN J boron (B ODIPY ® ), diketopyrrolo-pyrrole, fluorindine, (poly)methine (particularly cyanine and styryl/hemicyanin) , naphthalimide, naphthanilide, naphthylamine (such as dansyl) , oxadiazole, oxazine, perilone, perinone, perylene, polyene/carotenoid, squarane, stilbene, x
  • the fluorescent dye(s) are cationic and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radial such as those of the following formula (IX):
  • W + represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl groups optionally substituted particularly by one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, optionally substituted preferentially by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl groups, preferably Ci- C4 such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (C 1 -Cs)alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(Ci- Cs)alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl, vi) one or more amino or (di)(Ci- Cs)alkylamino groups, preferably with the C1-C4 alkyl part optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls such as (di)hydroxyethylamino, vii) by one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as pyperazinyl, pyperidiny
  • m' represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive, particularly m equals 1 or 2; more preferentially 1;
  • R c , R d identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C 1 -Cs)alkyl, preferentially C 1 -C 4 , or R c adjacent to W + and/or R d adjacent to Ar form with the atoms carrying same a (hetero)cycloalkyl, particularly R c is adjacent to W + and form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl;
  • Q is an organic or mineral anionic counterion as defined above .
  • the dye(s) are chosen from among pigments and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from among carbon black, iron oxides, particularly black, and micas coated with iron oxide, red iron oxide (iron(III) oxide, also known as ferric oxide), triarylmethane pigments particularly blue and violets such as B LUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments particularly reds such as D&C RED 7 , and mixtures thereof.
  • the dye(s) are comprised in the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) comprises :
  • one or more dyestuffs chosen from among pigments , direct dyes and mixtures thereof, and preferably from among pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of dyestuff(s), used in the colouring method according to the present invention ranges preferably from 0.5 to 15 % by weight, and more preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition comprising same.
  • the oily dispersion (A) and/or the composition (B ) and/or optionally the composition (C) used in the colouring method according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from among anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric , zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers and mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickening agents , and in particular anionic, cationic, non ionic or amphoteric as sociative polymer thickeners , antioxidant agents, penetration agents, sequestering agents, fragrances , buffers, dispersing agents , conditioning agents such as for example modified or non- modified, volatile or non-volatile silicones , film-forming agents , ceramides , preservative agents, opacifying agents .
  • additional compounds different from the compounds defined above preferably chosen from among anionic, cationic,
  • the additional compound(s) are present in the oily dispersion (A) and/or the composition (B ) and/or optionally the composition (C) according to the invention, the additional compound(s) are general present at a quantity for each thereof between 0.01 and 20% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition comprising same .
  • the method for colouring keratin fibres comprises :
  • step (iv) a step of applying on said keratin fibres one or more dyestuffs cho sen from among pigments , direct dyes and mixtures thereof, the or said dyestuff(s) being present in the oily dispersion (A) and/or in the composition (B ) and/or in a composition (C) ; it being understood that steps (ii) , (iii) and (iv) can be carried out simultaneously or sequentially .
  • steps (ii) , (iii) and (iv) are carried out simultaneously, i .e. together.
  • the oily dispersion (A) as defined above, the composition (B ) as defined above and the dyestuff(s) as defined above are applied together or in the form of a ready-to-use composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixture of said oily dispersion (A) , said composition (B ) and said dyestuff(s) .
  • the method according to the invention is a two-step method, comprising :
  • said dyestuff(s) are initially present in the oily dispersion (A) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B ) are applied together or the ready-to-use compo sition applied in the second step of the method results from the extemporaneous mixture of the oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B ) .
  • said dyestuff(s) are initially present in the composition (B ) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B ) are applied together or the ready-to-use compo sition applied in the second step of the method results from the extemporaneous mixture of the oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B ) .
  • said dyestuff(s) are initially present in a compo sition (C) .
  • the oily dispersion (A) , the composition (B ) and the composition (C) are applied together or the ready-to-use compo sition applied in the second step of the method results from the extemporaneous mixture of the oily dispersion (A), the composition (B ) and the composition (C) .
  • steps (ii) , (iii) and (iv) are carried out sequentially in no particular order.
  • step (iii) may be carried out after step (ii) and before step (iv) or conversely, step (iii) may be carried out after step (iv) and before step (ii) .
  • steps (ii) and (iv) are carried out simultaneously before step (iii) .
  • the dyestuff(s) as defined above are preferably present in the oily dispersion (A) according to the invention .
  • the latter is then applied on the keratin fibres before applying the composition (B ) as defined above.
  • steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are carried out sequentially, they are preferably carried out with no intermediate rinsing step between each step .
  • the liquor ratio of the composition(s) applied after the cold plasma treatment step of the method varies preferably from 0. 1 to 10, and more preferentially from 0.2 to 5.
  • the term liquor ratio denotes according to the present invention the ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of keratin fibres to be treated.
  • the keratin fibres may optionally be rinsed with water or washed with shampoo .
  • the keratin fibres are then optionally dried using a hairdryer or a hood dryer or left to air-dry .
  • the kit also relates to a kit comprising :
  • each compartment of the kit may be released either sequentially, or simultaneously .
  • the kit may particularly be presented in the form of a case .
  • the packaging unit of the compositions i.e . the device with several compartments, is in a known manner any packaging suitable for storing cosmetic compositions (bottles , tube, spray bottle, aero sol bottle in particular) .
  • Such a kit makes it possible to carry out the method for colouring keratin fibres according to the invention.
  • the oily dispersions (A) are formed as a whole [ethylene polymer particles ( 1 ) + stabilising agent (2)] at:
  • oily dispersions were prepared in a 1 litre controlled reactor.
  • the synthesis is performed in two steps : During a first step, the isobornyl acrylate is placed to polymerise in isododecane / ethyl acetate (60/40) in the presence of a small quantity of ethyl acrylate and a radical initiator (T21 S ) . In the first step , the mas s ratio of isobornyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate is 92 : 8.
  • the remainder of the ethyl acrylate and the maleic anhydride are poured in the presence of isododecane / ethyl acetate (60/40) and a Trigonox 21 S radical initiator (T21 S ) .
  • Step 2
  • the NMR indicates a consumption of 97 % of the Isobornyl Acrylate (Ethyl Acrylate Consumption: 97 % ) .
  • Ethyl Acrylate / Maleic Anhydride, Isododecane / Ethyl acetate (60/40) , and T21 S are introduced in 2 hours by pouring .
  • the medium is milky .
  • the dry extract is 40% .
  • oily dispersion (A) and the composition (B ) according to the invention were prepared using the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, the contents whereof are expressed as a percentage by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition comprising same.
  • oily dispersion (A) and the compo sition (B ) obtained are then applied according to the following methods :
  • the oily dispersion (A) is applied onto 90% grey natural locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of dispersion per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • the composition (B ) is then applied onto s aid locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of composition per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • a cold plasma treatment generated using a piezoelectric generator, is performed on dry 90% grey natural locks of hair.
  • the generator is applied for 4min40 on either side of the locks of hair.
  • the oily dispersion (A) is applied onto the locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of dispersion per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • composition (B ) is then applied onto said locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of composition per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • a cold plasma treatment generated by dielectric barrier discharges , is performed on dry 90% grey natural locks of hair.
  • the generator is applied for 3min on either side of the locks of hair.
  • the oily dispersion (A) is applied onto the locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of dispersion per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • composition (B ) is then applied onto said locks of hair at a rate of 0.5 gram of composition per gram of hair.
  • the locks of hair are then combed, then dried with a hairdryer.
  • the locks of hair are washed with Gamier Ultra Doux shampoo .
  • the locks of hair are then rinsed under water, before being combed and dried with a hairdryer. This protocol is repeated five times for each of the locks of hair.
  • the colour remanence of the locks of hair is then evaluated by colorimetry in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Minolta CM 3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
  • L* represents the colour clarity
  • a* indicates the green/red colour axis
  • b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
  • the lower the value of L* the darker, stronger, the colour.
  • the colour remanence is evaluated by means of the colour deviation DE* between the coloured locks of hair before shampoo and the locks of hair from methods 1, 2 and 3 above after undergoing 5 shampoos.
  • DE* is defined according to the following equation:
  • L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after hair colouring and after 5 shampoos and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured after hair colouring but without shampoo.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une méthode de coloration de fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, comprenant une étape de traitement par plasma froid desdites fibres kératiniques, suivie des étapes consistant à appliquer une dispersion huileuse particulière sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, une composition comprenant au moins un composé aminé et au moins un colorant. La présente invention concerne en outre un kit comprenant un générateur de plasma froid et un dispositif comprenant au moins deux compartiments contenant une dispersion huileuse particulière, une composition comprenant au moins un composé aminé, et au moins un colorant.
PCT/EP2020/068078 2019-06-28 2020-06-26 Méthode de coloration de fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape de traitement par plasma froid desdites fibres WO2020260619A1 (fr)

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FR1907202A FR3097755B1 (fr) 2019-06-28 2019-06-28 Procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape de traitement par plasma froid desdites fibres
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024022647A1 (fr) * 2022-07-28 2024-02-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique, comprenant le procédé de traitement de la matière kératinique à l'aide d'un plasma et de l'utilisation d'un colorant
WO2024156403A1 (fr) * 2023-01-24 2024-08-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de blondissement de fibres kératiniques comprenant le traitement des fibres kératiniques avec du plasma et utilisation d'un agent blondissant

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WO2024156403A1 (fr) * 2023-01-24 2024-08-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de blondissement de fibres kératiniques comprenant le traitement des fibres kératiniques avec du plasma et utilisation d'un agent blondissant

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