WO2019126999A1 - Composition anhydre solide comprenant un polymère hydrophobe pour éliminer le maquillage sur la peau - Google Patents
Composition anhydre solide comprenant un polymère hydrophobe pour éliminer le maquillage sur la peau Download PDFInfo
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- WO2019126999A1 WO2019126999A1 PCT/CN2017/118564 CN2017118564W WO2019126999A1 WO 2019126999 A1 WO2019126999 A1 WO 2019126999A1 CN 2017118564 W CN2017118564 W CN 2017118564W WO 2019126999 A1 WO2019126999 A1 WO 2019126999A1
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- composition
- polyglyceryl
- weight
- fatty acid
- ester
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- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000005215 alkyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000008168 almond oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N alpha-linolenic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000020661 alpha-linolenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010477 apricot oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003899 bactericide agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940094199 black currant oil Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 244000192479 candlenut Species 0.000 description 1
- 150000001721 carbon Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 235000013351 cheese Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002285 corn oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002385 cottonseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 235000008524 evening primrose extract Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 238000001125 extrusion Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 125000005313 fatty acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960005150 glycerol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008169 grapeseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010468 hazelnut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid hexadecyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PMMXXYHTOMKOAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 7-methyloctanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCC(C)C PMMXXYHTOMKOAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IIRDTKBZINWQAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexaethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO IIRDTKBZINWQAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 1
- 125000001165 hydrophobic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000865 liniment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004488 linolenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N linolenic acid Natural products CC=CCCC=CCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010469 macadamia oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019713 millet Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000000282 nail Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940060184 oil ingredients Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003002 pH adjusting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940102545 peg-20 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003209 petroleum derivative Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005191 phase separation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940048845 polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010486 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001816 polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010988 polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940068977 polysorbate 20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940099511 polysorbate 65 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940113171 polysorbate 85 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010493 quinoa oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940057429 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten Chemical compound [W] WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
Definitions
- the present invention concerns a solid anhydrous composition, particularly useful for the cleansing of the keratin materials and/or the makeup removal from the keratin materials, comprising a hydrophobic polymer.
- the invention also concerns a cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing the makeup on the keratin materials using said composition.
- soft solid compositions constitute a category of products that are appreciated by consumers for their efficacy on cleansing, makeup removability, rinse ability, and for their cosmetic qualities (soft, dry feeling, easy to use, etc.) . They are known as solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading over the surface of the skin or, for example, by extrusion through a device with a perforated wall (grille) .
- compositions of “soft solid” type that are used for cleansing of the skin and/or the removal of makeups, which leave the skin without any residue and with a fresh skin finish, and meanwhile, are easy to apply on the skin.
- Some known soft solid compositions useful for the cleansing of the skin and/or the removal of makeup comprise silica aerogel particles, waxes, hydrocarbon-based oils and non-ionic surfactants.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide a solid anhydrous composition with good efficacy such as makeup remove ability and rinse ability, and with improved cosmetic properties such as ease of use.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide such a composition as described above with no oily feeling on the skin after application.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide the composition as described above with good stability over time.
- Another aim of the invention is to provide a solid and anhydrous composition, in particular for removing makeup from the skin, which can be carried easily in devices.
- one aim of the present invention is to provide a solid anhydrous composition with all the above mentioned properties, and meanwhile presents a pleasant transparent appearance.
- the present invention thus relates to a solid anhydrous composition
- a solid anhydrous composition comprising:
- At least one hydrophobic polymer chosen from the group consisting of ester terminated poly (ester-amide) , and their mixtures;
- At least two non-ionic surfactants wherein one of which is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to the surface of the keratin materials at least one composition according to the invention.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing the makeup on the keratin materials, which comprises a step of applying to the surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin, at least one composition according to the invention.
- compositions according to the invention the spread-ability and application properties on the keratin materials were improved, with less time required to melt and apply the compositions, compared to other solid compositions.
- the skin finish is also improved, with the absence of oily feeling after rinsing.
- composition is stable over time.
- compositions according to the invention may be transparent, thereby presenting a pleasant appearance to the compositions.
- the compositions have a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in a jar, a device equipped with an open-work wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of wands (sticks) .
- solid composition means the form of the composition at 20°C, and in particular the term “solid” means a composition whose hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm -1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.
- the hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.
- the composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
- the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
- the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
- the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
- the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .
- the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
- the composition of the present invention has a hardness of greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1 , more preferably ranging from 50 Nm -1 to 300 Nm -1 , even more preferably ranging from 60 Nm -1 to 120 Nm -1 .
- anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2%by weight of water, or even less than 0.5%water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
- rinse ability it may be meant the ease of being rinsed off by water after applying the composition of the present invention onto the skin.
- no oily feeling it may be meant the feeling of the skin being dry and fresh after rinsing off the composition of the present invention. In one embodiment, there is no greasy or waxy feeling of the skin after rinsing off the composition of the present invention.
- swipe-ability it may be meant the ease of application and/or of spread of the compositions on the keratin materials (the solid composition “melt” when applied on the keratin materials) .
- keratin materials means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes) , hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes, preferably skin.
- the term “transparent” may be represented by the turbidity of the composition of the present invention, which may be measured according to the NTU method using a 2100P model turbidimeter from the company HACH, at room temperature.
- the turbidity of the solid anhydrous composition of the invention is less than 400 NTU units and preferably less than 200 NTU, more preferably between 1 and 100 NTU units,
- composition of the present invention aims at solving the problems as listed above.
- composition of the present invention is a solid anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup on keratin materials.
- the composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for removing makeup from the keratin materials, in particular from the skin.
- the makeup is removed from the skin of the face.
- the composition according to the invention is transparent.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic polymer chosen from ester terminated poly (ester-amide) .
- hydrophobic it may be meant a polymer which is repelled from water, i.e. which is not miscible with water.
- ester terminated polymer it may be meant a polymer comprising at least one chemical function ester (Ra-C (O) -O-R’a) as a terminal moiety.
- ester Ra-C (O) -O-R’a
- such polymers and their methods of preparation are described in the WO 02/092663 patent application.
- said polymer comprises at least one dimer dilinoleate unit, optionally hydrogenated.
- the hydrophobic polymer is bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
- bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer also called polyamide-8, commercialized by Arizona chemical under the name Sylvaclear TM C75V or by Croda, Inc., under the name OleoCraft LP-20 (CAS RN is 678991-29-2) .
- the composition according to the invention comprises only one hydrophobic polymer.
- the composition of the invention does not comprise an ester terminated polyamide polymer such as ethylenediamine stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
- the amount of the hydrophobic polymer is comprised between 1%and 20%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5%and 15%by weight, for example about 10%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa) .
- the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
- volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
- non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
- oils in accordance with the invention are preferably selected from any cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils, or a mixture thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
- the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 300 000 mPa.s.
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C 8 -C 16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheatgerm oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojob
- esters especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with R 1 + R 2 ⁇ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyal
- - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol,
- the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from the group consisting of C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, branched C 8 -C 16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils of animal origin or plant oils, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at 25°C, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, carbonates, acetates, citrates, and mixtures thereof; preferably from synthetic esters of fatty acids.
- hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from the group consisting of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane;
- the composition according to the invention is advantageously transparent.
- the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from the group consisting of synthetic esters of fatty acids for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, oct
- oils that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance synthetic esters. Mention may be made of such oils, for example, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, which is sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois under the tradename Palmitate D’ethyl 2 Hexyle, or C24 sold by the company BASF.
- the hydrocarbon-based oil is a synthetic ester of a fatty acid, more preferably 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
- the amount of the hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition is comprised between 40%and 98%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; preferably between 50%and 80%by weight, more preferably between 55%and 70%by weight, for example about 65%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Surfactants are usually organic compounds that are amphiphilic, meaning that they contain both hydrophobic groups (their tails) and hydrophilic groups (their heads) .
- non-ionic surfactant is meant a surfactant which has no charged groups in its head (i.e. the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral) .
- composition of the present invention comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants, wherein one of which is selected from fatty acid esters of polyglycerol containing at least 5 glycerol groups.
- the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (also knowns as polyglycerol fatty acid ester, PGFE) that is suitable for the present invention is the compound of formula (I) ,
- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 5 -C 30 fatty chain
- n is an integer ranging from 5 to 30.
- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 17 fatty chain
- n is an integer ranging from 5 to 20, preferably 5 to 16.
- Suitable PGFE surfactants are Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, or Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate.
- the fatty acid esters of polyglycerol suitable for the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-5 laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, or a mixture thereof.
- polyglyceryl-10 oleate is used in the composition of the present invention.
- composition according to the present invention comprises a second non-ionic surfactant, which is different from the fatty acid esters of polyglycerol as described above.
- Examples of the second suitable non-ionic surfactants include oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.
- the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
- it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.
- Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
- PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate such as those sold by the company Nihon Emulsion under the tradename Emalex Gwis-320EX.
- Surfactants of other types that may be mentioned more particularly include:
- sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
- - fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate;
- oxyalkylenated especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ;
- the amount of the non-ionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention is comprised between 1%and 30%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1%and 20%by weight, for example about 15%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic) , fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes) , film-forming polymers, additional surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, cationic, or nonoinic surfactants; additional oils such as silicone oil, or fluoro oils, thickeners and/or gelling agents, and active ingredients.
- adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic) , fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes) , film-forming polymers, additional surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, cationic, or nonoinic surfactants; additional oils such as silicone oil, or fluoro oils, thicken
- silicon oil means an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.
- fluoro oil means partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based oils comprising carbon atoms and fluorine atoms.
- non-volatile silicone oils mention may be made of linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof.
- PDMS linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
- phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes
- compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a balm, pomade or a gel whose hardness may vary as a function of the desired application, the region of human keratin material to be treated and the desired conditioning.
- compositions according to the invention may be conditioned in a jar; in a device equipped with an open-work wall, especially a grille; in a device equipped with a ball applicator ( “roll-on” ) ; in the form of wands (sticks) .
- they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
- composition according to the invention comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:
- ester terminated poly (ester-amide) from 1%to 20%by weight of at least one hydrophobic polymer chosen from ester terminated poly (ester-amide) ;
- the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for cleansing and/or makeup removing of keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition:
- non-ionic surfactants which are chosen from, respectively, fatty acid ester of polyglycerol containing at least 5 glycerol groups, and oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol;
- composition of the invention comprises:
- non-ionic surfactants which are mixtures of polyglyceryl-10 oleate and PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
- composition of the invention comprises:
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises applying to the surface of the keratin material at least one composition as defined previously.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing the makeup on the keratin materials, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material at least one composition as defined previously.
- composition according to the invention has improved spread-ability, makeup remove ability, rinse ability and skin finish.
- the composition has a desired hardness so as to be conditioned in a jar, a device equipped with an open-work wall, a device equipped with a ball applicator, or in the form of wands (sticks) .
- the invention formula 1 presents an improved stability comparing to the comparative formulas 2 and 3. Besides, the invention formula 1 presents an improved cosmetic properties comparing to the comparative formulas 2 and 3, in particular in rinse ability and non-residue feelings after application.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition anhydre solide, particulièrement utile pour le nettoyage de la peau et l'élimination du maquillage, comprenant plus particulièrement un copolymère de bis(stéaryl)éthylènediamine/néopentylglycol/dilinoléate dimère hydrogéné, et un procédé cosmétique de nettoyage et/ou d'élimination du maquillage sur les matières kératiniques faisant appel à ladite composition.
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CN201780097935.8A CN111601580B (zh) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | 用于卸除皮肤上的彩妆的包含疏水聚合物的固体无水组合物 |
PCT/CN2017/118564 WO2019126999A1 (fr) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Composition anhydre solide comprenant un polymère hydrophobe pour éliminer le maquillage sur la peau |
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PCT/CN2017/118564 WO2019126999A1 (fr) | 2017-12-26 | 2017-12-26 | Composition anhydre solide comprenant un polymère hydrophobe pour éliminer le maquillage sur la peau |
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Cited By (2)
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WO2021004711A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-05 | 2021-01-14 | Beiersdorf Ag | Préparation nettoyante contenant des polyglycérylesters d'acide gras |
WO2023217986A1 (fr) | 2022-05-13 | 2023-11-16 | Laboratoires Clarins | Composition cosmetique solide anhydre comprenant le myristate de decaglycerol et une combinaison de corps gras |
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US6552160B2 (en) * | 2001-05-14 | 2003-04-22 | Arizona Chemical Company | Ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) useful for formulating transparent gels in low polarity fluids |
US7160337B2 (en) * | 2001-12-17 | 2007-01-09 | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. | Transparent, vegetable-based, substantially hydrocarbon-free candle article |
US7989002B2 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2011-08-02 | Avon Products, Inc | High gloss gel-based lipstick |
FR2970177B1 (fr) * | 2011-01-11 | 2013-08-02 | Oreal | Composition huileuse demaquillante |
WO2012157628A1 (fr) * | 2011-05-18 | 2012-11-22 | 株式会社ダイセル | Composition d'huile pour produit cosmétique |
CN105050574B (zh) * | 2013-03-25 | 2019-05-31 | 莱雅公司 | 包含非聚合物型有机凝胶剂的透明组合物 |
CN104173206B (zh) * | 2014-09-02 | 2016-09-14 | 广州神采化妆品有限公司 | 防晒透明唇膏及其制备方法 |
WO2016058180A1 (fr) * | 2014-10-17 | 2016-04-21 | L'oreal | Composition anhydre solide servant à éliminer le maquillage de la peau |
JP6684648B2 (ja) * | 2016-05-17 | 2020-04-22 | 株式会社ファンケル | 油性クレンジング化粧料 |
CN106491400A (zh) * | 2016-11-14 | 2017-03-15 | 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 | 一种温热洁肤卸妆膏 |
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US8546640B2 (en) * | 2006-06-08 | 2013-10-01 | Evriholder Products, Llc | Infused sponge delivery system |
CN104740234A (zh) * | 2013-12-27 | 2015-07-01 | 天津中新药业集团股份有限公司乐仁堂制药厂 | 一种中药组合物及其制备方法 |
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WO2021004711A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-05 | 2021-01-14 | Beiersdorf Ag | Préparation nettoyante contenant des polyglycérylesters d'acide gras |
WO2023217986A1 (fr) | 2022-05-13 | 2023-11-16 | Laboratoires Clarins | Composition cosmetique solide anhydre comprenant le myristate de decaglycerol et une combinaison de corps gras |
FR3135398A1 (fr) | 2022-05-13 | 2023-11-17 | Laboratoires Clarins | Composition cosmétique solide anhydre comprenant le myristate de décaglycérol et une combinaison de corps gras |
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CN111601580A (zh) | 2020-08-28 |
CN111601580B (zh) | 2023-09-05 |
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