WO2018158215A1 - Foaming aqueous gel comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative, an alkyl polyglucoside, a polyol and an organic acid - Google Patents
Foaming aqueous gel comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative, an alkyl polyglucoside, a polyol and an organic acid Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2018158215A1 WO2018158215A1 PCT/EP2018/054742 EP2018054742W WO2018158215A1 WO 2018158215 A1 WO2018158215 A1 WO 2018158215A1 EP 2018054742 W EP2018054742 W EP 2018054742W WO 2018158215 A1 WO2018158215 A1 WO 2018158215A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- alkyl
- chosen
- carbon atoms
- acid
- Prior art date
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- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 title claims abstract description 47
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 43
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 140
- -1 alkyl betaine derivative Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 86
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 44
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 43
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 18
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 18
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Betaine Natural products C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 14
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 14
- 235000019362 perlite Nutrition 0.000 claims description 13
- 150000001340 alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 12
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-O N,N,N-trimethylglycinium Chemical class C[N+](C)(C)CC(O)=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000001342 alkaline earth metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000010451 perlite Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims description 6
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical group [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001720 carbohydrates Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- ZEYHEAKUIGZSGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methoxybenzoic acid Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 ZEYHEAKUIGZSGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N D-xylopyranose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1COC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N Decyl beta-D-threo-hexopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)C(O)[C@H](O)C1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-CMTNHCDUSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940073499 decyl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- DVEKCXOJTLDBFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-dodecyl-n,n-dimethylglycinate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O DVEKCXOJTLDBFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940094506 lauryl betaine Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- JOOXCMJARBKPKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-oxopentanoic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)CCC(O)=O JOOXCMJARBKPKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005711 Benzoic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010233 benzoic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N lauryl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O PYIDGJJWBIBVIA-UYTYNIKBSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940048848 lauryl glucoside Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010199 sorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004334 sorbic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940075582 sorbic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- ORTVZLZNOYNASJ-UPHRSURJSA-N (z)-but-2-ene-1,4-diol Chemical compound OC\C=C/CO ORTVZLZNOYNASJ-UPHRSURJSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940058015 1,3-butylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 100676-05-9 Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(OC(O)C(O)C2O)CO)O1 OWEGMIWEEQEYGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JCTXKRPTIMZBJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-1,3-diol Chemical compound CC(C)C(O)C(C)(C)CO JCTXKRPTIMZBJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(C)CO QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SXFJDZNJHVPHPH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol Chemical compound OCCC(C)CCO SXFJDZNJHVPHPH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- DBTMGCOVALSLOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 32-alpha-galactosyl-3-alpha-galactosyl-galactose Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(O)C(OC2C(C(CO)OC(O)C2O)O)OC(CO)C1O DBTMGCOVALSLOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-XLOQQCSPSA-N Alpha-Lactose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)O[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-XLOQQCSPSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-CUHNMECISA-N D-Cellobiose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-CUHNMECISA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-WHZQZERISA-N D-aldose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-WHZQZERISA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-IVMDWMLBSA-N D-allopyranose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-IVMDWMLBSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- RXVWSYJTUUKTEA-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-maltotriose Natural products OC1C(O)C(OC(C(O)CO)C(O)C(O)C=O)OC(CO)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)O1 RXVWSYJTUUKTEA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-QTVWNMPRSA-N D-mannopyranose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-QTVWNMPRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- HMFHBZSHGGEWLO-SOOFDHNKSA-N D-ribofuranose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O HMFHBZSHGGEWLO-SOOFDHNKSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002307 Dextran Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229930091371 Fructose Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- RFSUNEUAIZKAJO-ARQDHWQXSA-N Fructose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@](O)(CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O RFSUNEUAIZKAJO-ARQDHWQXSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005715 Fructose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QKKXKWKRSA-N Lactose Natural products OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O[C@H]2[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)O[C@@H]2CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QKKXKWKRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-PICCSMPSSA-N Maltose Natural products O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-PICCSMPSSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ALQSHHUCVQOPAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pentane-1,5-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCO ALQSHHUCVQOPAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-LMVFSUKVSA-N Ribose Natural products OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)C=O PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-LMVFSUKVSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- HMFHBZSHGGEWLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-D-Furanose-Ribose Natural products OCC1OC(O)C(O)C1O HMFHBZSHGGEWLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-PHYPRBDBSA-N alpha-D-galactose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-PHYPRBDBSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N arabinose Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)C=O PYMYPHUHKUWMLA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000003710 aryl alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 2
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-D-Pyranose-Lyxose Natural products OC1COC(O)C(O)C1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N beta-maltose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)O[C@@H]2CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O GUBGYTABKSRVRQ-QUYVBRFLSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008121 dextrose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013681 dietary sucrose Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940113120 dipropylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethenylcyclopentane Chemical compound C=CC1CCCC1 BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229930182830 galactose Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- FZWBNHMXJMCXLU-BLAUPYHCSA-N isomaltotriose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1OC[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C=O)O1 FZWBNHMXJMCXLU-BLAUPYHCSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008101 lactose Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940040102 levulinic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N mannotriose Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(CO)OC(OC2C(OC(O)C(O)C2O)CO)C(O)C1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002763 monocarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N neopentyl glycol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)CO SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012453 solvate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960004793 sucrose Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCO ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N β-1,4-galactotrioside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](CO)O[C@@H](O[C@@H]2[C@@H](O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MOTZDAYCYVMXPC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl hydrogen sulfate Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCOS(O)(=O)=O MOTZDAYCYVMXPC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 229940043264 dodecyl sulfate Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 abstract description 9
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 37
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 21
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 21
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 21
- 239000011149 active material Substances 0.000 description 11
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 7
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 7
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 7
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229940083542 sodium Drugs 0.000 description 7
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 6
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 5
- 235000010755 mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 4
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 4
- 159000000003 magnesium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 description 4
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- UIGBPGNEWMRLGK-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(2-hydroxydodecoxy)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCC(O)COCC([O-])=O UIGBPGNEWMRLGK-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-D Chemical compound OC(=O)COC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1Cl OVSKIKFHRZPJSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Disodium Chemical class [Na][Na] QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 3
- ULUAUXLGCMPNKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfobutanedioic acid Chemical class OC(=O)CC(C(O)=O)S(O)(=O)=O ULUAUXLGCMPNKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XEFQLINVKFYRCS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triclosan Chemical compound OC1=CC(Cl)=CC=C1OC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1Cl XEFQLINVKFYRCS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium oxide Inorganic materials [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Al+3].[Al+3] PNEYBMLMFCGWSK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000003863 ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N decyl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000000249 desinfective effect Effects 0.000 description 3
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- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol Natural products OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004709 eyebrow Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000000744 eyelid Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000012847 fine chemical Substances 0.000 description 1
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004395 glucoside group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940093915 gynecological organic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000008131 herbal destillate Substances 0.000 description 1
- UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol;octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO UBHWBODXJBSFLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000012907 honey Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000001165 hydrophobic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SUMDYPCJJOFFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N isethionic acid Chemical class OCCS(O)(=O)=O SUMDYPCJJOFFON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001282 iso-butane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003410 keratolytic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004571 lime Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052749 magnesium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011777 magnesium Substances 0.000 description 1
- VTHJTEIRLNZDEV-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Mg+2] VTHJTEIRLNZDEV-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000347 magnesium hydroxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001862 magnesium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- HCWCAKKEBCNQJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium orthosilicate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] HCWCAKKEBCNQJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000391 magnesium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052919 magnesium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000019792 magnesium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000594 mannitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010355 mannitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940044591 methyl glucose dioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012764 mineral filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001206 natural gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N octyl beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HEGSGKPQLMEBJL-RKQHYHRCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000005985 organic acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012766 organic filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940101267 panthenol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020957 pantothenol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011619 pantothenol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940086560 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000013500 performance material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229950001046 piroctone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940081510 piroctone olamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000915 polyvinyl chloride Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004800 polyvinyl chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001950 potassium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003138 primary alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000000746 purification Methods 0.000 description 1
- RYVMUASDIZQXAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyranoside Natural products O1C2(OCC(C)C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C2)C(C)C(C2(CCC3C4(C)CC5O)C)C1CC2C3CC=C4CC5OC(C(C1O)O)OC(CO)C1OC(C1OC2C(C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C(O)C(CO)O2)O)OC(CO)C(O)C1OC1OCC(O)C(O)C1O RYVMUASDIZQXAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940058287 salicylic acid derivative anticestodals Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003872 salicylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 108700004121 sarkosyl Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940065859 sodium cocoyl glycinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045944 sodium lauroyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium lauroyl sarcosinate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC([O-])=O KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940045885 sodium lauroyl sarcosinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075560 sodium lauryl sulfoacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940048107 sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910001948 sodium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- IWIUXJGIDSGWDN-UQKRIMTDSA-M sodium;(2s)-2-(dodecanoylamino)pentanedioate;hydron Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@H](C([O-])=O)CCC(O)=O IWIUXJGIDSGWDN-UQKRIMTDSA-M 0.000 description 1
- IKGKWKGYFJBGQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(dodecanoylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC([O-])=O IKGKWKGYFJBGQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AGGIJOLULBJGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfoacetic acid Chemical class OC(=O)CS(O)(=O)=O AGGIJOLULBJGTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical class OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020234 walnut Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
Definitions
- Foaming aqueous gel comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative, an alkyl polyglucoside, a polyol and an organic acid
- the present invention relates to a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, and also to the use of said composition especially in the cosmetic field, as products for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibers (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp, and also for treating greasy skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
- Cleansing of the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, the residues of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin folds and can block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.
- foaming cleansing products are in the form of foaming soap bars, gels or creams. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy foam but may cause tautness due to their excessive detergent power, or foaming surfactants such as sulfate surfactants, in particular sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), or amphoteric surfactants, for instance cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocoamphodiacetate, which are highly efficient in terms of foam and of detergent power.
- SLS sodium lauryl sulfate
- SLES sodium laureth sulfate
- amphoteric surfactants for instance cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocoamphodiacetate, which are highly efficient in terms of foam and of detergent power.
- foaming products may be thickened by means of a salt, for example sodium chloride, for certain surfactants, or by adding a thickener of alkyl-PEG type such as PEG- 150 distearate or PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or by adding a gelling agent of natural gum type, in particular xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum or carrageenan gum.
- a salt for example sodium chloride
- a thickener of alkyl-PEG type such as PEG- 150 distearate or PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate
- a gelling agent of natural gum type in particular xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum or carrageenan gum.
- Thickening with salt is a known approach that is widely used, since it makes it possible both to be cheap and also not to impair the foam qualities; however, in general, it cannot significantly thicken the composition for all surfactant systems.
- increasing the viscosity of the medium with a thickening or gelling agent is more multi- purpose, but often has a negative impact on the foam qualities of the formula (start of foaming and amount of foam) and may be negatively perceived on account of the sensory impact of ingredients of this type (texture that is too glidant on application, with a gelled aspect, or else difficult to rinse out).
- One subject of the present invention is thus a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, the mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides being between 0.5 and 2.5.
- composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to obtain a foaming cleansing composition that is advantageously transparent and stable, with excellent cosmeticity, especially with optimized viscosity, without the addition of thickening polymer for easy use.
- the composition of the invention moreover has good foam quality and good sensory properties on the skin especially after rinsing.
- stable composition refers to a composition which, after 2 months of storage at any temperatures between 4°C and 45°C, do not show any macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity, or any variation in microscopic appearance.
- the composition according to the invention is transparent.
- transparent composition refers to a macroscopically homogeneous composition through which it is possible to see distinctly with the naked eye.
- the transparency of a composition may be measured by its turbidity, and NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition.
- the turbidity measurement may be performed, for example, with a model 21 OOP turbidimeter from the Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are performed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
- composition according to the invention may have a turbidity value of less than or equal to 200 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferentially less than or equal to 50 NTU units, in particular less than or equal to 20 NTU units and even more particularly less than or equal to 10 NTU units.
- the transparency of a transparent composition also corresponds to a range between 0 and 50 NTU measured using a Hach Company, model 21 OOP portable turbidimeter.
- the viscosity of the compositions of the invention is moreover between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.65 and 2 Pa.s and even more preferentially between 0.8 and 1 .2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C, the viscosity being measured using a Rheomat 180 (from the company Lamy), equipped with an MS-R1 , MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a spin speed of 200 rpm.
- a Rheomat 180 from the company Lamy
- the compositions are free of thickening polymer.
- the term "free of thickening polymer” refers to compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5% or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of thickening polymer.
- the composition comprises at least one additional surfactant chosen from alkyl betaine derivatives, which makes it possible to maximize the performance qualities of the composition in terms of viscosity and cosmeticity.
- a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.
- a subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in cosmetics or dermatology, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up keratin materials, especially bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
- composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
- physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
- keratin material especially means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids).
- anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives and the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, present in the composition of the invention, and also the surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl betaines which may be present in the composition, are foaming.
- Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifying surfactants by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
- HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
- the term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).
- HLB hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant.
- the HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.
- the calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
- the Davies HLB consists in summing up the hydrophilic and lipophilic contributions made by each of the structural groups of the surfactant:
- H LB ⁇ H LBhydrophilic groups " ⁇ H LBhydrophobic groups 7
- HLB of the surfactant is equal to the sum of the HLB values of the hydrophilic groups minus the sum of the HLB values of the hydrophobic groups plus 7.
- HLB tables exist for the various standard groups, which may be found especially in the following treatise: Surfactants in Cosmetics, second edition, surfactant science series volume 68, edited by Martin M.Rieger & Linda D.Rhein, p. 134, table 4.
- the HLB values of the surfactant(s) are determined according to the Davies method which defines a scale ranging from 0 to several tens (in general up to 50).
- the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, whereas foaming surfactants generally have an HLB of greater than 18 and better still greater than 20.
- the alkyl sulfate-based anionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OS03 " )- They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, and mixtures thereof; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, better still from 8 to 16, even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, they are non-polyoxyethylenated.
- alkyl sulfate-based anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- alkyl sulfates the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms,
- alkyl ether sulfates the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, which are preferably non-ethoxylated,
- alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
- amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
- the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) are chosen from (C8-C24)alkyl sulfates, preferably (C10-C20)alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
- Alkyl sulfate derivatives that may be mentioned include the following surfactants:
- Texapon LS 30 sodium lauryl sulfate sold under the names Texapon LS 30 by the company BASF; Texapon LS 30 or Texapon LS 30 NA or Texapon LS 30/MB by BASF; Sulfetal LS-RSPO - B by Zschimmer & Schwarz; Stepanol WA-Extra HP or Stepanol WA-extra HP/MB by Stepan; Wilfares LX28 / RSPO (MB) by Wilmar; Rosulfan L/PH or Rosulfan L/PH MB by PCC Exol; Rhodapon LX-28 FLA or Rhodapon LX-28 RLB by Rhodia (Solvay); Alkopon 24 S 29 by Oxiteno; Tensopol S30LSHPH by Tensachem;
- the alkyl sulfate-based surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate.
- the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1 .5% to 12% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- AM active material
- alkyl polyglycoside means an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1 ) or an alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1 ).
- alkyl polyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkyl polyglycosides. They generally correspond to formula (I) below: in which:
- the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
- the group G is a saccharide residue
- alkyl polyglucosides that may be mentioned include decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 U P ® by the company Henkel or the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1 ® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ® by the company Henkel; cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC
- the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
- (G) a is a glucoside group comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1 .2 to 3 glucoside units.
- the saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.
- each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkyl polyglycoside may be in a or ⁇ isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.
- the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Preferably, they are chosen from decyl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Even more preferentially, it is cocoyl glucoside.
- the alkyl polyglucoside(s) may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight and better still from 2.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- AM active material
- the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives and the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl polyglucosides are present in a mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides of between 0.5 and 2.5, preferably between 0.8 and 1 .3 and even more preferentially between 0.9 and 1 .2.
- the compositions are free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above.
- the term "free of" additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above means compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above.
- the composition comprises at least one additional surfactant chosen from alkyl betaine derivatives, which makes it possible to maximize the performance qualities of the composition in terms of viscosity and cosmeticity, especially transparency.
- betaine derivatives examples include cocoyl betaine, for instance the product sold under the names Dehyton AB-30® by the company Cognis; Dehyton AB 30 or Dehyton AB 30/MB by BASF; Bumblev A1214.30L by Nipav; Galaxy Cocobetaine or Galaxy Cocobetaine-MB by Galaxy Surfactants or Genagen KB by Clariant; Mirataine BB/FLA by Rhodia (Solvay); Empigen BB / FL by I nnospec Active Chemicals; Tego Betain AB 1214 by Evonik Goldschmidt; Coco Betaine by Guangzhou Flowers Song Fine Chemic; Rokamina K30B by PCC Exol; Amphitol 24B-2 by Kao, lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by the company Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 OE) lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 OE) Betaine® by
- the composition comprises at least one alkyl betaine, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, better still from 8 to 16 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
- the alkyl betaine(s) are chosen from cocoyi betaine and lauryl betaine.
- the alkyl betaine is cocoyi betaine.
- the alkyl betaine derivative(s) are generally present in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight and better still from 1.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- AM active material
- the compositions are free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above.
- the term "free of" additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above means compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above.
- composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaines, at least one "additional" surfactant.
- additional surfactants used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. According to a particular embodiment, they are chosen from nonionic, amphoteric and anionic surfactants. Preferably, they are chosen from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants.
- the additional surfactant(s) are foaming surfactants.
- the additional surfactant(s) other than the alkyi sulfate derivatives, the alkyi polyglucosides and the alkyi betaines may be chosen from the following surfactants.
- the anionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from soaps (fatty acid salts), carboxylates, for instance sulfosucci nates, acylamino acids, amido ether carboxylates, alkyi polyaminocarboxylates, isethionates, alkyi methyl taurates, alkyi phosphates (monoalkyi or dialkyl phosphates), alkyi sulfoacetates, fatty acid sulfonates and fatty acid ester sulfonates, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
- soaps fatty acid salts
- carboxylates for instance sulfosucci nates
- acylamino acids amido ether carboxylates
- alkyi polyaminocarboxylates alkyi polyaminocarboxylates
- isethionates alkyi methyl taurates
- alkyi phosphates monooalkyi or dialky
- the soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or completely saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent.
- a basic agent such as alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal soaps or soaps of organic bases.
- Use may be made, as fatty acids, of saturated, linear or branched fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- This fatty acid may be chosen in particular from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid and lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
- Examples of basic agents that may be used include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline-earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide), ammonium hydroxide or else organic bases, such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
- alkali metal hydroxides sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide
- alkaline-earth metal hydroxides for example magnesium hydroxide
- ammonium hydroxide or else organic bases, such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
- the soaps may especially be fatty acid alkali metal salts, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).
- the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).
- the amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized.
- Carboxylates that may especially be mentioned include alkyi glycol carboxylic acids (or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetic acids)) and salts thereof, for instance sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight Shaa ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight Shaa (Acid Form) ® by the company Sanyo.
- alkyi glycol carboxylic acids or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetic acids)
- salts thereof for instance sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight Shaa ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight Shaa (Acid Form) ® by the company Sanyo.
- Non-oxyalkylenated alkyi sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the name Rewopol® SB F 12 P by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Kohacool L-40 by the company Toho Chemical, or Mackanate LO-FF by the company Rhodia.
- lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates 70/30 C12/C14
- disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate such as the products sold under the name Rewopol® SB F 12 P by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Kohacool L-40 by the company Toho Chemical, or Mackanate LO-FF by the company Rhodia.
- Oxyalkylenated sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the names Setacin 103 Special NP® by the company Zschimmer&Schwarz, Rewopol SB FA 30 U by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Goodway MES by the company Shanghai Goodway Chemical, Rewopol SB FA 30 PH by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Alkonix SS K by the company Ultra-Oxiteno, Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate by the company Guangzhou Flower's Song Fine Chemical, Kohacool L-300 by the company Toho Chemical, Empicol SDD OF by the company Huntsman, the disodium salt of a hemisulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special
- Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates may also be used, such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate- DC30® by the company Maclntyre.
- acylamino acids examples include sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix L30.
- alkyl phosphate sold by the company Kao under the name MAP 20.
- the alkyl radical of the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
- alkyl sulfoacetate(s) correspond to formula (I) below:
- x denotes an integer ranging from 7 to 29, preferably from 9 to 17, even more preferentially from 9 to 15 and preferably from 9 to 13;
- M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine.
- the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
- the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) are in salt form.
- they are chosen from alkali metal salts and more particularly the sodium salt.
- the anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfoacetates is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, such as the product sold under the name Lathanol LAL by the company Stepan.
- fatty acid sulfonates and fatty acid ester sulfonates that may then be used in the context of the invention comprise an alkyl radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid sulfonates or fatty acid ester sulfonates correspond to formula (III) below:
- x denotes an integer ranging from 7 to 29, preferably from 9 to 17, even more preferentially from 9 to 15 and better still from 9 to 13;
- M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine
- Y represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical such as a methyl or ethyl radical, or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal.
- the sulfonate function of the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
- the sulfonate function of the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) is in salt form.
- they are chosen from the salts of alkali metals and even more particularly the sodium salt.
- the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) used in the context of the invention are derived from lauric acid. Mention may be made especially of sodium 2-methyl sulfolaurate (INCI name: Sodium methyl-2 sulfolaurate) and disodium 2-sulfolaurate (INCI name: Disodium 2-sulfolaurate), used alone or as a mixture. According to a particular embodiment, they are fatty acid sulfonates and Y represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal.
- they are fatty acid ester sulfonates and Y represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical such as a methyl or ethyl radical.
- anionic surfactants as active material preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Nonionic surfactants
- composition according to the invention may also comprise a nonionic surfactant chosen, for example, from maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, and glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
- a nonionic surfactant chosen, for example, from maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, and glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
- the maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566 438, such as 0-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose or 0-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2 739 556.
- polyglycerolated fatty alcohols that may be mentioned is polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), this product being sold under the name Chimexane NF® by the company Chimex.
- Nonionic surfactants that may also be used include PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, for instance Glucamate DOE 120 from the company Noveon or PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, for instance Crothix from the company Croda.
- the amount of nonionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5% by weight and even better still from 1 % to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the total amount of surfactant active material in the composition is between 1 % and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 35% by weight, even more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight and better still between 7% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Polyols are defined as being organic molecules comprising at least two hydroxyl (OH) functions.
- polyol means a linear, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.
- the hydrocarbon-based chain is an alkyl radical.
- the polyol(s) present in the composition contain at least 4 carbon atoms and may be chosen especially from C4-C9 and preferably C4-C6 polyols.
- C4-C9 polyols mention may be made especially of 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, pentane- 1 ,5-diol, 2,2-dimethylpropane-1 ,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1 ,5-diol, pentane-1 ,2-diol, 2,2,4- trimethylpentane-1 ,3-diol, 2-methylpropane-1 ,3-diol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol.
- the polyol(s) are molecules of empirical formula CnHmOp in which the numbers n, m and p are integers with n being between 4 and 6, m being between 8 and 14 and p being between 2 and 5.
- pentane-1 ,2-diol sold under the name Pentiol Green + by the company Minasolve.
- the mass concentration of polyols is between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one organic acid.
- the organic monoacid(s) are monocarboxylic acids, the acid radical being a carboxylic acid radical -COOH.
- the organic acid(s) are monoacids, i.e. organic compounds comprising only one acid radical.
- the monoacid(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below, stereoisomers thereof, organic or mineral salts and the corresponding solvates:
- R represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a linear, branched or cyclic alkenyl radical comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or an aryl or aralkyl group comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, these groups being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups and C1 -C4 alkoxy groups.
- the organic acid(s) present in the composition are chosen from the compounds of formula C x H y O z in which the numbers x, y and z are integers with x between 6 and 9, y between 5 and 9 and z between 2 and 4.
- the organic acid is salicylic acid.
- the organic acid(s) are present in the composition in a mass concentration of between 0.1 % and 1 %, preferably between 0.2% and 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
- the composition in accordance with the invention comprises an amount of water of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 90% by weight, and better still between 75% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les- Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
- the aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive.
- water-soluble additives mention may be made especially of polyols other than those defined previously, for instance glycerol and propylene glycol.
- Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may especially be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.
- the amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants normally used in the cosmetics field and especially those used in cleansing products.
- adjuvants examples include fragrances, preserving agents, sequestrants (EDTA), pigments, nacres, mineral or organic, matt-effect, whitening or exfoliant fillers, soluble dyes, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobials, such as benzoyl peroxide, triclosan, azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, nonionic polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, conditioning amphoteric polymers such as Polyquaternium products, for instance Polyquaternium-47 sold under the reference Merquat 2001 by the company Nalco, and fatty substances that are incompatible with the aqueous medium, for instance oils and waxes.
- fragrances such as fragrance, preserving agents, sequestrants (EDTA), pigments, nacres, mineral or organic, matt-effect, whitening or exfoliant fillers,
- compositions of the invention are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
- Active agents include any care or cleansing active agent usually used in cosmetics, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid, essential oils, fruit waters (for example from apple or grape) or floral waters (for example rose water), plant extracts (especially from tea, mint, orchid, soybean, Aloe vera or honey), mineral salts (for example zinc or copper salts), vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E, vitamin PP (niacinamide) and vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof.
- antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan
- keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid
- salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid
- essential oils such as lactic acid or glycolic
- Fillers that may be mentioned include mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 M00® by the company Luzenac, kaolin or aluminum silicate, for instance the product sold under the name Kaolin Supreme® by the company Imerys, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under the name Amidon de Ma ' i ' s B® by the company Roquette, Nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, microspheres based on expanded vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer containing isobutane, such as the products sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by the company Expancel.
- mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 M00® by the company Luzenac
- Fibers for instance nylon fibers (Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm sold by Etablatoriums Paul Bonte), or cellulose or "Rayon” fibers (Rayon Flock RCISE N0003 M04® sold by the company Claremont Flock Corporation), may also be added to the composition of the invention.
- the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliant particles that will allow scrubbing of the skin. Use may be made, as exfoliant particles, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origins.
- perlites such as those sold under the names Imercare 270P-Scrub and Imercare 400P-Scrub by the company IMERYS
- polyethylene beads or powder such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 lncolore 2 by the company Dupont
- Nylon particles such as those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos
- fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Pulpe Polyamide 12185 Taille 0.3 mm
- polyvinyl chloride powder pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud
- ground shells of fruit kernels such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells
- sawdust glass beads
- alumina (aluminum oxide) INCI name:
- the filler(s) and/or the exfoliating particle(s) are generally present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises perlite particles.
- the perlites that may be used in the context of the invention may be expanded perlites. They are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and their composition is as follows: 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica Si0 2 ;
- the perlite is ground, dried and then sized in a first step.
- the product obtained, known as perlite ore is gray-colored and has a size of the order of 100 ⁇ .
- the perlite ore may then be expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
- the expanded perlite particles that may be used in the context of the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002 698.
- the expanded perlite particles used are ground; in this case, they are known as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 5 o ranging from 0.5 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 10 to 800 ⁇ and even more preferentially from 100 to 500 ⁇ .
- D 5 o is the mean volume size of 50% of the particles and is measured at 25°C by laser scattering with a machine such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
- Examples that may be mentioned include the perlites sold under the names lmercare 270P- Scrub and Imercare 400P-Scrub by the company Imerys.
- the perlite particles are generally present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may especially constitute cleansing or makeup- removing products for the skin (body, face, eyes), the scalp and/or the hair, preferably products for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin (body, face, eyes).
- Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or for removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or the hair, and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials. According to a particular embodiment, it is a process for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin.
- Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as products for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
- compositions according to the invention may also constitute a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp, especially when they contain an antibacterial agent.
- specific active agents for treating greasy skin may be included, for instance azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP).
- Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
- Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin materials, in which the composition of the invention is applied to keratin materials in the presence of water, and the foam formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.
- composition according to the invention may constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a leave-on time of 1 to 3 minutes.
- SM starting material
- AM active material
- compositions defined above are prepared at room temperature by mixing and dissolving the various ingredients with stirring in the following order: water + citric acid and sodium chloride, followed by addition of the glycerol, the natural extract and the fragrance, and finally the surfactants sodium lauryl sulfate, cocoyi glucoside and cocoyi betaine, if used.
- compositions 1 and 2 are homogeneous and transparent and meet the desired target viscosity.
- the viscosity of composition 3 is too low, outside the desired viscosity range for the compositions of the invention.
- compositions comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative and an alkyl polyglucoside in an [Alkyl Sulfate]/[Alkyl polyglucoside] mass concentration ratio of between 0.5 and 2.5, a polyol and an organic acid are stable, transparent and have a viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s without addition of a thickening polymer.
- These compositions moreover have good foam quality and good sensory properties on the skin especially after rinsing.
- the viscosity level does not meet the desired target (viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s).
- the working qualities, especially on application, are not optimized since the composition is too fluid.
- the viscosity level does not meet the desired target (viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s).
- the working qualities, especially on application, are not optimized since the composition is too fluid.
- the level of transparency does not meet the desired target either (transparency of between 0 and 50 NTU).
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one alkyl sulfate derivative, at least one alkyl polyglucoside, optionally at least one alkyl betaine derivative, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, the mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides being between 0.5 and 2.5, preferably between 0.8 and 1.3 and even more preferentially between 0.9 and 1.2. The composition in accordance with the invention is a transparent, stable foaming cleansing composition, with excellent cosmeticity, especially with optimized viscosity, without the addition of thickening polymer for easy use. The composition of the invention moreover has good foam quality and good sensory properties on the skin especially after rinsing.
Description
Foaming aqueous gel comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative, an alkyl polyglucoside, a polyol and an organic acid
The present invention relates to a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, and also to the use of said composition especially in the cosmetic field, as products for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibers (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp, and also for treating greasy skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
Cleansing of the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, the residues of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin folds and can block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.
One way of satisfactorily cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products. The foaming cleansing products currently commercially available are in the form of foaming soap bars, gels or creams. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy foam but may cause tautness due to their excessive detergent power, or foaming surfactants such as sulfate surfactants, in particular sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), or amphoteric surfactants, for instance cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine or sodium cocoamphodiacetate, which are highly efficient in terms of foam and of detergent power.
Moreover, foaming products may be thickened by means of a salt, for example sodium chloride, for certain surfactants, or by adding a thickener of alkyl-PEG type such as PEG- 150 distearate or PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or by adding a gelling agent of natural gum type, in particular xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum or carrageenan gum.
Thickening with salt is a known approach that is widely used, since it makes it possible both to be cheap and also not to impair the foam qualities; however, in general, it cannot significantly thicken the composition for all surfactant systems. On the other hand, increasing the viscosity of the medium with a thickening or gelling agent is more multi- purpose, but often has a negative impact on the foam qualities of the formula (start of foaming and amount of foam) and may be negatively perceived on account of the sensory impact of ingredients of this type (texture that is too glidant on application, with a gelled aspect, or else difficult to rinse out).
Skin-cleansing cosmetic compositions, and in particular foaming cleansing products, are thus widely used on a daily basis and consumers express the need for foaming products of simple composition which have the following characteristics:
- a transparent texture often associated with aqueous realms and skin purification, the
presentation of this type of texture in transparent packagings making it possible to highlight the specificity of this type of texture;
- a texture whose viscosity is optimized to facilitate the use of the product - specifically, thick foaming formulations are not easy to extract from the packaging (especially by children or the elderly), while excessively fluid foaming formulations are difficult to handle;
- while at the same time conserving good foaming qualities.
It thus appears necessary to have novel stable skin-cleansing foaming compositions of transparent appearance, the texture of which is optimized in terms of viscosity to improve the working qualities, while at the same time having compositions not including any thickening polymer. The desired cosmetic qualities are excellent, in terms of foaming properties and of skin finish after rinsing.
It has been discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, with an appropriately chosen mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides, makes it possible to obtain stable, transparent, foaming skin-cleansing compositions which have excellent cosmeticity, especially with optimized viscosity for easy use, without the addition of thickening polymer.
One subject of the present invention is thus a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, the mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides being between 0.5 and 2.5.
The composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to obtain a foaming cleansing composition that is advantageously transparent and stable, with excellent cosmeticity, especially with optimized viscosity, without the addition of thickening polymer for easy use. The composition of the invention moreover has good foam quality and good sensory properties on the skin especially after rinsing.
The term "stable composition" refers to a composition which, after 2 months of storage at any temperatures between 4°C and 45°C, do not show any macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity, or any variation in microscopic appearance.
Thus, advantageously, the composition according to the invention is transparent. The term "transparent composition" refers to a macroscopically homogeneous composition through which it is possible to see distinctly with the naked eye.
The transparency of a composition may be measured by its turbidity, and NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition. The
turbidity measurement may be performed, for example, with a model 21 OOP turbidimeter from the Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are performed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may have a turbidity value of less than or equal to 200 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferentially less than or equal to 50 NTU units, in particular less than or equal to 20 NTU units and even more particularly less than or equal to 10 NTU units.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention is a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent composition whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%, which corresponds to an absorbance [abs = -log(transmittance)] of less than 1.5. The transparency of a transparent composition also corresponds to a range between 0 and 50 NTU measured using a Hach Company, model 21 OOP portable turbidimeter.
According to another particular embodiment, the viscosity of the compositions of the invention is moreover between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.65 and 2 Pa.s and even more preferentially between 0.8 and 1 .2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C, the viscosity being measured using a Rheomat 180 (from the company Lamy), equipped with an MS-R1 , MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a spin speed of 200 rpm.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions are free of thickening polymer. According to the invention, the term "free of thickening polymer" refers to compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5% or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of thickening polymer.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional surfactant chosen from alkyl betaine derivatives, which makes it possible to maximize the performance qualities of the composition in terms of viscosity and cosmeticity. A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.
A subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in cosmetics or dermatology, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up keratin materials, especially bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" especially means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the
nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids).
In the text hereinbelow, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.
Surfactants
The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives and the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, present in the composition of the invention, and also the surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl betaines which may be present in the composition, are foaming.
Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifying surfactants by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).
The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant. The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.
The higher the value, the greater the solubility in water, and, conversely, the lower the value, the greater the affinity of the surfactant for oil.
The Griffin HLB value is defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the publication from the authors F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled Galenica 5: Les systemes disperses - Tome I - Agents de surface et emulsions - Chapitre IV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimental
[Experimental determination of HLB], pages 164-180.
It is preferably the calculated HLB values that should be taken into account.
The calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
calculated HLB = 20 x molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass.
The Davies HLB consists in summing up the hydrophilic and lipophilic contributions made by each of the structural groups of the surfactant:
H LB ^ H LBhydrophilic groups "∑ H LBhydrophobic groups 7
Thus, the HLB of the surfactant is equal to the sum of the HLB values of the hydrophilic groups minus the sum of the HLB values of the hydrophobic groups plus 7.
HLB tables exist for the various standard groups, which may be found especially in the following treatise: Surfactants in Cosmetics, second edition, surfactant science series volume 68, edited by Martin M.Rieger & Linda D.Rhein, p. 134, table 4.
Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference for the anionic and nonionic surfactants.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the HLB values of the surfactant(s) are determined according to the Davies method which defines a scale ranging from 0 to several tens (in general up to 50).
For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, whereas foaming surfactants generally have an HLB of greater than 18 and better still greater than 20.
Alkyl sulfate-based anionic surfactants
The alkyl sulfate-based anionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OS03")- They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, and mixtures thereof; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, better still from 8 to 16, even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, they are non-polyoxyethylenated.
Preferentially, the alkyl sulfate-based anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- alkyl sulfates, the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms,
- alkyl ether sulfates, the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, which are preferably non-ethoxylated,
- and mixtures thereof;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino
alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) are chosen from (C8-C24)alkyl sulfates, preferably (C10-C20)alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Alkyl sulfate derivatives that may be mentioned include the following surfactants:
- sodium lauryl sulfate sold under the names Texapon LS 30 by the company BASF; Texapon LS 30 or Texapon LS 30 NA or Texapon LS 30/MB by BASF; Sulfetal LS-RSPO - B by Zschimmer & Schwarz; Stepanol WA-Extra HP or Stepanol WA-extra HP/MB by Stepan; Wilfares LX28 / RSPO (MB) by Wilmar; Rosulfan L/PH or Rosulfan L/PH MB by PCC Exol; Rhodapon LX-28 FLA or Rhodapon LX-28 RLB by Rhodia (Solvay); Alkopon 24 S 29 by Oxiteno; Tensopol S30LSHPH by Tensachem;
- sodium cocoyl sulfate sold under the name Mackol CAS 100N by the company Novecare. In a preferred mode of the invention, the alkyl sulfate-based surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate.
The alkyl sulfate derivative(s) may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1 .5% to 12% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkyl polvglucoside nonionic surfactants
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkyl polyglycoside" means an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1 ) or an alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1 ).
The alkyl polyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkyl polyglycosides. They generally correspond to formula (I) below: in which:
the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon
atoms, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
the group G is a saccharide residue;
a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and especially from 1 .2 to 3. Examples of alkyl polyglucosides that may be mentioned include decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 U P® by the company Henkel or the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1 ® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 10® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name TEGO Care CG90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the names Emulgade PL1618 or Emulgade KE 3302 by the company Cognis; cocoyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® or Plantacare 818 UP MB by the company BASF; methyl cocoyl glucoside sold under the name Eumulgin GTS by the company Cognis; octyldodecyl xyloside sold, for example, under the names Fluidanov 20X or Easynov by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, (G)a is a glucoside group comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1 .2 to 3 glucoside units.
The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.
It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkyl polyglycoside may be in a or β isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.
It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkyl polysaccharides, which may differ from each other in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Preferably, they are chosen from decyl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Even more preferentially, it is cocoyl glucoside. The alkyl polyglucoside(s) may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight and better still from 2.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In the composition in accordance with the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives and the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl polyglucosides are present in a mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides of between 0.5 and 2.5, preferably between 0.8 and 1 .3 and even more preferentially between 0.9 and 1 .2.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions are free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above. According to the invention, the term "free of" additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above means compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides as defined above.
Alkyl betaine derivatives
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional surfactant chosen from alkyl betaine derivatives, which makes it possible to maximize the performance qualities of the composition in terms of viscosity and cosmeticity, especially transparency.
Examples of betaine derivatives that may be mentioned include cocoyl betaine, for instance the product sold under the names Dehyton AB-30® by the company Cognis; Dehyton AB 30 or Dehyton AB 30/MB by BASF; Betapav A1214.30L by Nipav; Galaxy Cocobetaine or Galaxy Cocobetaine-MB by Galaxy Surfactants or Genagen KB by Clariant; Mirataine BB/FLA by Rhodia (Solvay); Empigen BB / FL by I nnospec Active Chemicals; Tego Betain AB 1214 by Evonik Goldschmidt; Coco Betaine by Guangzhou Flowers Song Fine Chemic; Rokamina K30B by PCC Exol; Amphitol 24B-2 by Kao, lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by the company Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 OE) lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 OE) Betaine® by the company Shin Nihon Rica; oxyethylenated (10 OE) stearyl betaine, for
instance the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 OE) Betaine® by the company Shin Nihon Rica; cocamidopropyl betaine sold, for example, under the name Velvetex BK 35® by the company Cognis; undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example, under the name Amphoram U® by the company Ceca; and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one alkyl betaine, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 24, better still from 8 to 16 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkyl betaine(s) are chosen from cocoyi betaine and lauryl betaine. Preferably, the alkyl betaine is cocoyi betaine.
The alkyl betaine derivative(s) are generally present in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% by weight and better still from 1.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions are free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above. According to the invention, the term "free of" additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above means compositions containing less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives as defined above.
Additional surfactants
The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaines, at least one "additional" surfactant. The additional surfactants used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. According to a particular embodiment, they are chosen from nonionic, amphoteric and anionic surfactants. Preferably, they are chosen from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants.
Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk- Othmer", volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of said reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
According to a particular embodiment, the additional surfactant(s) are foaming surfactants. In particular, the additional surfactant(s) other than the alkyi sulfate derivatives, the alkyi polyglucosides and the alkyi betaines may be chosen from the following surfactants. a) Anionic surfactants
The anionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from soaps (fatty acid salts), carboxylates, for instance sulfosucci nates, acylamino acids, amido ether carboxylates, alkyi polyaminocarboxylates, isethionates, alkyi methyl taurates, alkyi phosphates (monoalkyi or dialkyl phosphates), alkyi sulfoacetates, fatty acid sulfonates and fatty acid ester sulfonates, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or completely saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal soaps or soaps of organic bases. Use may be made, as fatty acids, of saturated, linear or branched fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may be chosen in particular from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid and lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of basic agents that may be used include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline-earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide), ammonium hydroxide or else organic bases, such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
The soaps may especially be fatty acid alkali metal salts, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).
The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized.
Carboxylates that may especially be mentioned include alkyi glycol carboxylic acids (or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetic acids)) and salts thereof, for instance sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight Shaa® or Beaulight LCA-25N® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight Shaa (Acid Form)® by the company Sanyo.
Non-oxyalkylenated alkyi sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the name Rewopol® SB F 12 P by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Kohacool L-40 by the company Toho Chemical, or Mackanate LO-FF by the company Rhodia.
Oxyalkylenated sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the names Setacin 103 Special NP® by the company Zschimmer&Schwarz, Rewopol SB FA 30 U by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Goodway MES by the company Shanghai Goodway Chemical, Rewopol SB FA 30 PH by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Alkonix SS K by the company Ultra-Oxiteno, Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate by the company Guangzhou Flower's Song Fine Chemical, Kohacool L-300 by the company Toho Chemical, Empicol SDD OF by the company Huntsman, the disodium salt of a hemisulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by the company Zschimmer & Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 OE) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 OE) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 OE) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates may also be used, such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate- DC30® by the company Maclntyre.
Examples of acylamino acids that may be mentioned include sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix L30.
An example of an alkyl phosphate that may be mentioned is lauryl phosphate, sold by the company Kao under the name MAP 20.
The alkyl radical of the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
According to a particular embodiment, the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) correspond to formula (I) below:
MS03-CH2-CO-0-(CH2)x-CH3
in which:
x denotes an integer ranging from 7 to 29, preferably from 9 to 17, even more preferentially from 9 to 15 and preferably from 9 to 13;
M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine.
When the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl sulfoacetate(s) are in salt form. Preferably, they are chosen from alkali metal salts and more particularly the sodium salt.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfoacetates is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, such as the product sold under the name Lathanol LAL by the company Stepan.
The fatty acid sulfonates and fatty acid ester sulfonates that may then be used in the context of the invention comprise an alkyl radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid sulfonates or fatty acid ester sulfonates correspond to formula (III) below:
CH3-(CH2)x-CH(S03M)-CO-0-Y
in which:
x denotes an integer ranging from 7 to 29, preferably from 9 to 17, even more preferentially from 9 to 15 and better still from 9 to 13;
M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine,
Y represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical such as a methyl or ethyl radical, or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal.
When the sulfonate function of the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) is in salt form, it may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the sulfonate function of the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) is in salt form. Preferably, they are chosen from the salts of alkali metals and even more particularly the sodium salt.
According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid sulfonate(s) or fatty acid ester sulfonate(s) used in the context of the invention are derived from lauric acid. Mention may be made especially of sodium 2-methyl sulfolaurate (INCI name: Sodium methyl-2 sulfolaurate) and disodium 2-sulfolaurate (INCI name: Disodium 2-sulfolaurate), used alone or as a mixture.
According to a particular embodiment, they are fatty acid sulfonates and Y represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal.
According to another particular embodiment, they are fatty acid ester sulfonates and Y represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical such as a methyl or ethyl radical.
The amount of anionic surfactants (as active material) preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Nonionic surfactants
The composition according to the invention may also comprise a nonionic surfactant chosen, for example, from maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, and glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof. The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566 438, such as 0-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose or 0-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2 739 556.
Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols that may be mentioned is polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), this product being sold under the name Chimexane NF® by the company Chimex.
Nonionic surfactants that may also be used include PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, for instance Glucamate DOE 120 from the company Noveon or PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, for instance Crothix from the company Croda.
The amount of nonionic surfactants (as active material) preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5% by weight and even better still from 1 % to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total amount of surfactant active material in the composition is between 1 % and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 35% by weight, even more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight and better still between 7% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polvol(s)
Polyols are defined as being organic molecules comprising at least two hydroxyl (OH) functions.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyol" means a linear, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions. For example, the hydrocarbon-based chain is an alkyl radical.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) present in the composition contain at least 4 carbon atoms and may be chosen especially from C4-C9 and preferably C4-C6 polyols.
Among the C4-C9 polyols, mention may be made especially of 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, pentane- 1 ,5-diol, 2,2-dimethylpropane-1 ,3-diol, 3-methylpentane-1 ,5-diol, pentane-1 ,2-diol, 2,2,4- trimethylpentane-1 ,3-diol, 2-methylpropane-1 ,3-diol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol.
According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol(s) are molecules of empirical formula CnHmOp in which the numbers n, m and p are integers with n being between 4 and 6, m being between 8 and 14 and p being between 2 and 5.
An example that may especially be mentioned is pentane-1 ,2-diol sold under the name Pentiol Green + by the company Minasolve.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mass concentration of polyols is between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic acids
The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one organic acid. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monoacid(s) are monocarboxylic acids, the acid radical being a carboxylic acid radical -COOH.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the organic acid(s) are monoacids, i.e. organic compounds comprising only one acid radical.
According to a preferred embodiment, the monoacid(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below, stereoisomers thereof, organic or mineral salts and the corresponding solvates:
in which R represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a linear, branched or cyclic alkenyl radical comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or an aryl or aralkyl group comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, these groups being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups and C1 -C4 alkoxy groups.
Preferably, the organic acid(s) present in the composition are chosen from the compounds of formula CxHyOz in which the numbers x, y and z are integers with x between 6 and 9, y between 5 and 9 and z between 2 and 4.
Examples that may be mentioned include:
- salicylic acid sold under the name Salicylic Acid Pharmaceutical Grade USP, ph. Eur by the company Novacyl,
- benzoic acid sold under the name Purox B Flakes Pure Grade Benzoic Acid by the company Emerald Performance Materials,
- anisic acid sold under the name Ronacare 4-Methoxybenzoic Acid by the company Merck, - levulinic acid sold under the name Dermosoft 700 B by the company Lucas Meyer
Cosmetics,
- sorbic acid sold under the name Sorbic Acid by the company Daicel.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the organic acid is salicylic acid. The organic acid(s) are present in the composition in a mass concentration of between 0.1 % and 1 %, preferably between 0.2% and 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises an amount of water of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 90% by weight, and better still between 75% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les- Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. As water-soluble additives, mention may be made especially of polyols other than those defined previously, for instance glycerol and propylene glycol.
Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may especially be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.
The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants normally used in the cosmetics field and especially those used in cleansing products. Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include fragrances, preserving agents, sequestrants (EDTA), pigments, nacres, mineral or organic, matt-effect, whitening or exfoliant fillers, soluble dyes, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobials, such as benzoyl peroxide, triclosan, azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, nonionic polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, conditioning amphoteric polymers such as Polyquaternium products, for instance Polyquaternium-47 sold under the reference Merquat 2001 by the company Nalco, and fatty substances that are incompatible with the aqueous medium, for instance oils and waxes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention. Active agents that may be mentioned include any care or cleansing active agent usually used in cosmetics, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid, essential oils, fruit waters (for example from apple or grape) or floral waters (for example rose water), plant extracts (especially from tea, mint, orchid, soybean, Aloe vera or honey), mineral salts (for example zinc or copper salts), vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E, vitamin PP (niacinamide) and vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof.
Fillers that may be mentioned include mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 M00® by the company Luzenac, kaolin or aluminum silicate, for instance the product sold under the name Kaolin Supreme® by the company Imerys, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under
the name Amidon de Ma'i's B® by the company Roquette, Nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, microspheres based on expanded vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer containing isobutane, such as the products sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by the company Expancel. Fibers, for instance nylon fibers (Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm sold by Etablissements Paul Bonte), or cellulose or "Rayon" fibers (Rayon Flock RCISE N0003 M04® sold by the company Claremont Flock Corporation), may also be added to the composition of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliant particles that will allow scrubbing of the skin. Use may be made, as exfoliant particles, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origins. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, perlites, such as those sold under the names Imercare 270P-Scrub and Imercare 400P-Scrub by the company IMERYS, polyethylene beads or powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 lncolore 2 by the company Dupont; Nylon particles, such as those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Pulpe Polyamide 12185 Taille 0.3 mm; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud; ground shells of fruit kernels, such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt during application on the skin, for instance the spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the Unispheres names by the company Induchem, the agar-based capsules sold under the Primasponge names by the company Cognis and the spheres based on jojoba esters sold under the Floraspheres names by the company Floratech; diatomaceous earth frustules such as those sold by the company Alban Muller under the reference Diatami 60/200 microns, and polyethylene wax particles, for instance those sold by the company Sasol under the name Cirebelle.
The filler(s) and/or the exfoliating particle(s) are generally present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises perlite particles.
The perlites that may be used in the context of the invention may be expanded perlites. They are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and their composition is as follows: 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica Si02;
12.0-15.0% by weight of oxide of aluminum oxide AI2O3;
3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na20;
3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K2O;
0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe2C>3;
0.2-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO;
0.5-1 .5% of calcium oxide CaO;
0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide Ti02.
The perlite is ground, dried and then sized in a first step. The product obtained, known as perlite ore, is gray-colored and has a size of the order of 100 μηη.
The perlite ore may then be expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material, relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles that may be used in the context of the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in patent US 5 002 698. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the expanded perlite particles used are ground; in this case, they are known as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D5o ranging from 0.5 to 1000 μηη, preferably from 10 to 800 μηη and even more preferentially from 100 to 500 μηη.
D5o is the mean volume size of 50% of the particles and is measured at 25°C by laser scattering with a machine such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
Examples that may be mentioned include the perlites sold under the names lmercare 270P- Scrub and Imercare 400P-Scrub by the company Imerys.
In this preferred embodiment, the perlite particles are generally present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention may especially constitute cleansing or makeup- removing products for the skin (body, face, eyes), the scalp and/or the hair, preferably products for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin (body, face, eyes).
Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or for removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or the hair, and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above
is applied to said keratin materials. According to a particular embodiment, it is a process for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin.
Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as products for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
The compositions according to the invention may also constitute a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp, especially when they contain an antibacterial agent. In particular, specific active agents for treating greasy skin may be included, for instance azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP). Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin materials, in which the composition of the invention is applied to keratin materials in the presence of water, and the foam formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.
In the case of cleansing the face, the composition according to the invention may constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a leave-on time of 1 to 3 minutes. The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are weight percentages of starting material (SM) and/or of active material (AM).
Examples
The compositions defined above are prepared at room temperature by mixing and dissolving the various ingredients with stirring in the following order: water + citric acid and sodium chloride, followed by addition of the glycerol, the natural extract and the fragrance, and finally the surfactants sodium lauryl sulfate, cocoyi glucoside and cocoyi betaine, if used.
Results:
Compositions 1 and 2 are homogeneous and transparent and meet the desired target viscosity. The viscosity of composition 3 is too low, outside the desired viscosity range for the compositions of the invention.
These results show that only the compositions comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative and an alkyl polyglucoside in an [Alkyl Sulfate]/[Alkyl polyglucoside] mass concentration ratio of between 0.5 and 2.5, a polyol and an organic acid are stable, transparent and have a viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s without addition of a thickening polymer. These compositions moreover have good foam quality and good sensory properties on the skin especially after rinsing.
For comparative composition 3 not satisfying the [Alkyl Sulfate]/[Alkyl polyglucoside] surfactant ratio defined for the present invention, the viscosity level does not meet the desired target (viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s). The working qualities, especially on application, are not optimized since the composition is too fluid.
For comparative composition 4 not satisfying the [Alkyl Sulfate]/[Alkyl polyglucoside] surfactant ratio defined for the present invention, the viscosity level does not meet the desired target (viscosity of between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s). The working qualities, especially on application, are not optimized since the composition is too fluid. Moreover, the level of transparency does not meet the desired target either (transparency of between 0 and 50 NTU).
Claims
1 . A foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfate derivatives, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, at least one polyol and at least one organic acid, the mass ratio of alkyl sulfate derivatives/alkyl polyglucosides being between 0.5 and 2.5, preferably between 0.8 and 1 .3 and even more preferentially between 0.9 and 1 .2.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 , which is transparent with a turbidity value at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure of less than or equal to 200 NTU units, better still less than or equal to 100 NTU units, preferentially less than or equal to 50 NTU units, in particular between 0 and 50 NTU.
3. The composition as claimed in either of claims 1 and 2, the viscosity of which is between 0.5 and 5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.65 and 2 Pa.s and even more preferentially between
0.8 and 1.2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, which is free of thickening polymer.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) are chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, and mixtures thereof; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 16 and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) are chosen from (C8-C24)alkyl sulfates, preferably (C10-C20)alkyl sulfates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, and preferably in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; preferably, the alkyl sulfate derivative(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, and even more preferentially it is sodium lauryl sulfate.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the alkyl polyglycoside(s) correspond to formula (I) below:
in which:
the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;
the group G is a saccharide residue;
a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and especially from 1.2 to 3.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 7, in which the saccharide residue is chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch, and is preferably glucose.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside, preferably from decyl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside, and is even more preferentially cocoyl glucoside.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, which is free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives and the alkyl polyglucosides.
1 1. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, in which the polyol(s) contain at least 4 carbon atoms and may be chosen especially from C4-C9 and preferably C4-C6 polyols.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the polyol(s) are chosen from 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, pentane-1 ,5-diol, 2,2-dimethylpropane-1 ,3-diol, 3- methylpentane-1 ,5-diol, pentane-1 ,2-diol, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-1 ,3-diol, 2- methylpropane-1 ,3-diol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol, and it is preferably pentane-1 ,2-diol.
13. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the polyol(s) are molecules of empirical formula CnHmOp in which the numbers n, m and p are integers with n being between 4 and 6, m being between 8 and 14 and p being between 2 and 5.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the organic monoacid(s) are monocarboxylic acids, the acid radical being a carboxylic acid radical -COOH.
15. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 14, in which the monoacid(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below, stereoisomers thereof, organic or mineral salts and the corresponding solvates:
in which R represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a linear, branched or cyclic alkenyl radical comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or an aryl or aralkyl group comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, these groups being optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups and C1 -C4 alkoxy groups.
16. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, in which the organic acid(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula CxHyOz in which the numbers x, y and z are integers with x between 6 and 9, y between 5 and 9 and z between 2 and 4.
17. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 16, in which the organic acid(s) are chosen from salicylic acid, benzoic acid, anisic acid, levulinic acid and sorbic acid, and it is preferably salicylic acid.
18. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 17, comprising at least one alkyl betaine derivative.
19. The composition as claimed in claim 18, in which the alkyl betaine derivative(s) are alkyl betaines, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 16 and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
20. The composition as claimed in either of claims 18 and 19, in which the betaine derivative(s) are chosen from cocoyl betaine and lauryl betaine, and it is preferably cocoyl betaine.
21. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 18 to 20, which is free of additional surfactants other than the alkyl sulfate derivatives, the alkyl polyglucosides and the alkyl betaine derivatives.
22. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 21 , also comprising perlite particles.
23. A cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in which a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 22 is applied to said keratin materials.
24. The use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up keratin materials, especially bodily or facial skin, or for haircare, especially for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
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FR1751635A FR3063225B1 (en) | 2017-02-28 | 2017-02-28 | AQUEOUS FOAMING GEL COMPRISING AN ALKYL SULPHATE DERIVATIVE, AN ALKYL POLYGLUCOSIDE, A POLYOL AND AN ORGANIC ACID |
FR1751635 | 2017-02-28 |
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PCT/EP2018/054742 WO2018158215A1 (en) | 2017-02-28 | 2018-02-27 | Foaming aqueous gel comprising an alkyl sulfate derivative, an alkyl polyglucoside, a polyol and an organic acid |
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