WO2017037001A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for lightening skin - Google Patents
Cosmetic or dermatological composition for lightening skin Download PDFInfo
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- WO2017037001A1 WO2017037001A1 PCT/EP2016/070282 EP2016070282W WO2017037001A1 WO 2017037001 A1 WO2017037001 A1 WO 2017037001A1 EP 2016070282 W EP2016070282 W EP 2016070282W WO 2017037001 A1 WO2017037001 A1 WO 2017037001A1
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- Prior art keywords
- extract
- skin
- acid
- composition according
- weight
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- 125000001273 sulfonato group Chemical group [O-]S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- UWHCKJMYHZGTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetraethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCO UWHCKJMYHZGTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
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- LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-crotonic acid Natural products CC=CC(O)=O LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trisiloxane Chemical compound [SiH3]O[SiH2]O[SiH3] ZQTYRTSKQFQYPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
Definitions
- the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to compositions for cosmetic or topical dermatological skin lightening which contain at least one ascorbic acid ester and at least two special plant extracts.
- the invention furthermore relates to the use of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions for lightening the skin and / or for lightening pigmentations of the skin and for smoothing the skin surface and achieving a more even skin appearance.
- the pigmentation of the skin takes place in the melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis next to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type.
- the melanocytes form melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color.
- Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted with the participation of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the involvement of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin.
- DHICA and DHI melanin brown to brown-black eumelanins
- Melanin formation - and thus skin and hair color - is subject to external influences and, in addition to desired effects ("healthy tan”), can also lead to undesired phenomena, in particular UV radiation can cause the formation of freckles, but also due to genetic disposition, Wound healing or scarring or skin aging ("age spots”) occur. Also, hormonal disorders may be responsible for abnormal melanocyte reactions and increased accumulation of melanin in the skin, resulting in unwanted - mostly brown - spots on the skin.
- Skin aging also involves the phenomenon that dead or damaged skin cells can no longer be satisfactorily removed by conventional cosmetic skin treatments (such as peelings) and instead accumulate in the upper layers of the skin. Combined with a reduced rate of renewal of skin cells with increasing age, it may also result in an irregular appearance of the skin surface except for the formation of age spots, making skin lines and wrinkles more visible.
- skin whitening agents which contain ascorbic acid or its physiologically tolerated derivatives or salts and 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid and / or azelaic acid.
- Document DE 102012222970 relates to providing a skin lightening compositions, the possible natural product-based skin lightening agents (Exfolactive ®) included.
- cosmetic or dermatological compositions with which several signs of skin aging can be combated in a single treatment step.
- irregularities of the skin surface should be mitigated and / or eliminated in order to achieve an overall more uniform appearance of the skin.
- Another object of the invention was to find for the production of cosmetic or dermatological compositions well-tolerated, possibly based on natural substances or drug combinations.
- a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition which
- c) contains at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
- compositions according to the invention contain at least one ascorbic acid ester a).
- Suitable ascorbic acid esters a) for the purposes of the present invention may preferably be selected from esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids according to the following formula (I)
- R 1 to R 4 represent the moiety -C (O) -R and the other radicals may be hydrogen; and R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alk (en) yl radical having 8 to 24, preferably 10 to 20 and in particular 13 to 17 carbon atoms.
- Very particularly preferred esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids are the following compounds: ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate.
- ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a particularly preferred organic ascorbic acid ester a).
- esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid.
- esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid.
- Particularly preferred according to the invention are ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate or the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate, such as, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate ,
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is, due to its excellent stability in aqueous media, a particularly preferred inorganic ascorbic acid ester a).
- compositions according to the invention is particularly suitable for achieving optimal lightening (pigmented) skin and additionally stimulating collagen synthesis.
- the ascorbic acid ester (s) a) may be present in the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 4.00% by weight. , particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.50 to 2.00 wt .-% are used.
- the inventive compositions contain, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic a), preferably 0.10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic ai) and 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of at least one ascorbic acid ester aii).
- compositions according to the invention which contain from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 1.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 1.50% by weight and in particular 0 , 40 to 1, 25 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ai)) and 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 1, 75 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 1, 50th Wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 1, 25 wt .-% magnesium ascorbyl phosphates (aii)).
- compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
- Opuntia ficus indica extract in combination with ascorbic acid esters a) and at least one other essential plant extract c) significantly supports the natural desquamation of dead skin cells and the natural cell renewal in the skin.
- the additional application of mechanical and / or chemical peels for cleaning / smoothing the skin is no longer necessary.
- Opuntia ficus indica is a species of the genus Opuntia of the cactus family (Cactaceae), which is native to India. Extracts from Opuntia can according to known manufacturing processes in a variable composition with solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures of 20 ° C to 100 ° C with gentle to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 Std. Under atmospheric pressure at up to 200 bar.
- solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc.
- further concentration steps can be carried out, for example liquid-liquid distribution with, for example, 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchangers, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc. If the further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is carried out according to known methods by stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure.
- Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on the total weight of the compositions, they contain from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.30 to Contains 3.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 2.50 wt .-% of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
- Cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which, based on the weight of the compositions, 0, 10 to 5.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 3.00 wt % and especially 0.40 to 2.50% by weight of at least one wholly or partially hydrolysed extract of Opuntia ficus indica (CAS No. 90082-21 -6) are furthermore preferred embodiments of the present invention.
- compositions according to the invention comprise at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
- Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract support the collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin and contribute - coupled with the active ingredients a) and b) in the compositions of the invention - considerably to the achievement of a particularly even and elastic appearance of the skin.
- Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbamboo) is a plant of the grass family (Poaceae), which occurs predominantly in Southeast Asia and Africa.
- Pisum sativum is a plant of the genus Peas (Pisum) from the legume family (Fabaceae) and is native to Asia Minor.
- Extracts of Bambusa vulgaris and / or Pisum sativum can be prepared by known manufacturing processes in variable composition.
- a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents is used to obtain the extract.
- a protic solvent may be used which is selected from the group consisting of: water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, cyclohexanol, diethylene glycol, HO- (CH 2) 2 OH and one of their mixtures.
- an aprotic polar solvent which is selected, in particular, from the group consisting of: pyridine, butanone, acetone, AC 2 O, (Me 2 N) 2 CO, PhCN, CH 3 CH 2 CN, HM PA, PhNO 2 , McNO 2 , DMF, MeCN, sulfolane, DMSO, HCONH 2, NCONHMe, CHsCONHMe and one of their mixtures.
- water or a mixture of water and an alcohol such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol, a polyol such as butylene glycol or an ester such as ethyl acetate or a mixture of these solvents is used.
- the mixing ratios of the above-mentioned solvents generally vary between 1: 1 and 1: 100, and preferably between 1: 1 and 1:10; for example, a mixture of 25/75 is used.
- the extraction can be carried out by stirring and / or heating, for example between 30 and 60 ° C or by reflux of the solvent used.
- the extraction is usually carried out at atmospheric pressure, but also an extraction under pressure can be carried out.
- the extraction time is determined by the skilled person and depends in particular on the extraction conditions. Multiple extractions may be performed and the resulting fractions pooled if desired.
- compositions of the invention contain the at least one plant extract c) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-%.
- More preferred is an amount of from 0.02 to 4.00 wt%, more preferably from 0.03 to 3.50 wt%, and especially from 0.05 to 3.00 wt%.
- compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of the at least one plant extract c), preferably 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) and 0.01 to 1, 00 wt .-% of at least one extract from Pisum sativum (cii)).
- Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract are commercially available, for example under the trade name Derm SRC® PF from Barnet Products.
- ii) contain at least one extract of Pisum sativum.
- cosmetic or dermatological compositions which, based on their total weight, comprise a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or Ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
- compositions which - based on their total weight - a) i) 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate,
- compositions according to the invention also care for the skin.
- care is understood to mean, in particular, the increase in skin moisture, suppleness and elasticity of the treated skin.
- hyaluronic acid and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid salts and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid esters are particularly suitable for combination with the active compounds a) -c) in the compositions according to the invention.
- the smoothing effect of the skin structure can thereby be further enhanced.
- compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one main active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20, 00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-% particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-%.
- main active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20, 00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-% particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-%.
- Suitable salts of hyaluronic acid are preferably their alkali metal and / or ammonium salts, for example the hyaluronic acid salt commercially available under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate from various suppliers (Therapo, CPN).
- Preferred esters of hyaluronic acid may be selected from silanol esters, as obtainable, for example, under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
- a preferred commercial product is offered for example by the company under the name Exsymol DSH CN ® commercially.
- hyaluronic acid in pure form, it can also be part of small beads which can be added to the compositions according to the invention. Suitable beads are available, for example under the trade name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ® by the company BASF.
- a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise, based on their total weight, a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
- the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 85% by weight, more preferably 30 to 80% by weight. %, more preferably 40 to 75 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 70 wt .-% water.
- compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30 and especially from 3 to 20% by weight of at least one alcohol, preferably glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl- 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preference is given to water-soluble alcohols.
- Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols may be selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred.
- Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.
- compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.
- compositions of the invention are preferably according to the requirements of the intended use.
- compositions of the invention may be in solid, semi-solid, liquid, disperse, emulsified, suspended or gel form. Furthermore, they can be formulated as propellant-containing aerosol or propellant-free pump spray.
- the compositions of the invention may be in the form of a hydrogel.
- Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physically possible by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains.
- the choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to tailor desired properties of the hydrogels.
- the necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers provide, inter alia, hydroxyl, carboxylate, sulfonate and / or amide groups.
- Synthetic hydrogels are based inter alia on - if necessary.
- Preferred anionic polymeric hydrogel builders which can aid the action of the compositions of the present invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
- anionic polymers contain as sole monomer or as a comonomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form.
- copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer use are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
- a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups are wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt present.
- This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
- crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
- crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
- Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
- the NS under the designations Simulgel ® 600, Simulgel ®, Simulgel ® EG, Simulgel ® EPG and Sepiplus ® 400 as a compound with an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, and an emulsifier, such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides, sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers (with monomers selected from acrylamide, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate and / or acrylic acid) have proven to be suitable according to the invention.
- an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene
- an emulsifier such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides
- sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers sold sodium acryloyldimethyl
- hydrogel ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate vinylpyrrolidone copolymer in particular the commercial product Aristoflex ® AVC from Clariant.
- anionic homopolymer hydrogel formers are uncrosslinked and / or crosslinked poly (meth) acrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the products commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Carbopol. Examples of particularly preferred Carbopol commercial products are the polymers of the Carbopol Ultrez ® - series, available from Lubrizol as Carbopol Ultrez ® 30th
- a further particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer to 80-98% of an unsaturated C3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2-20% of acrylic acid esters of saturated Cio-30-carboxylic acids, which copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents.
- Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ®, and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon or BF Goodrich).
- Preferred nonionic polymeric hydrogel for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, the commercial products Mowiol ®, and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, for example, under the trade name Luviskol ® (BASF) for example.
- BASF Luviskol ®
- Preferred natural hydrogel formers according to the invention may preferably be selected from cellulose derivatives, if desired physically (thermally) and / or chemically modified, preferably from hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulase, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, furthermore from starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, from chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for example hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, in particular the anionic starch derivatives aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (for example the commercial products Dry Flo® ), sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and derivatives thereof, furthermore polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates
- compositions according to the invention a combination of special polymers as stabilizers or hydrogel formers is particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention. They ensure excellent long-term stability and very good rheological properties of the compositions, so that they can be applied to the skin particularly easily and quickly and distributed there.
- At least one natural hydrogel former preferably a polysaccharide and in particular xanthan gum, and
- At least one synthetic (meth) acrylic acid-based polymer at least one synthetic (meth) acrylic acid-based polymer.
- compositions according to the invention based on their total weight, therefore preferably contain 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one stabilizing agent, preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, and at least one (Meth) acrylic acid homopolymer and / or copolymer.
- at least one stabilizing agent preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, and at least one (Meth) acrylic acid homopolymer and / or copolymer.
- compositions (based on their total weight)
- compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or Oil-in-water (O / W), a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion.
- compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
- oil-in-water emulsions may, also preferably, be stabilized by at least one of the abovementioned hydrogel formers.
- emulsions may, for example, be in the form of creams, lotions and / or cosmetic milks and, in addition to the aforementioned active substances, furthermore contain fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances and also water and one or more emulsifiers.
- the oil phase is present in preferred emulsions according to the invention preferably in a weight fraction of 0.50-50.00 wt .-% of the total weight of the emulsion, more preferably from 1.00 to 40.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1.50 to 30.00 wt. %, and most preferably from 2.00 to 25.00% by weight.
- the Emukjator (s) is (are) counted neither the oil phase nor the water phase.
- the oil phase consists of at least 90 wt .-% of an oil component at 20 ° C liquid.
- Preferred oil components which can be used in emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are selected, for example, from:
- volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as.
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z.
- hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2) octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4), any two- and three-mixtures of L 2.
- L 3 and / or L 4 as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are contained,
- nonvolatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes commercially available e.g. Dow Corning® 190.
- esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B.
- Cegesoft ® C 24 hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanot ® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate,
- Finsolv ® TN (Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate), Finsolv ® SB (isostearyl benzoate), and Finsolv EB ® (ethylhexyl).
- the Cs-Cz2 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C 2 -C -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
- esters based on linear C12 15-alkanols eg. B. Cw-Cis-alkyl lactate, and branched in 2-position C12 1> alkanols, for.
- B. di-Ci2-Ci i-Alkylmalat are man under the trademark Cosmacol® ® by the company Nord. To refer Rassmann GmbH & Co, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ® EMI.
- Cosmacol ® ESI Cosmacol ® and EIT the addition products of Ethyienoxid and / or propylene oxide with mono- or polyhydric alkanols, such as C3-20 Butanoi, butanediol.
- Myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol e.g. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ®, PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®). PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57).
- PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® e)
- liquid paraffin oils liquid paraffin oils.
- Isoparaffin. z. B the commercial products of the Permethyl ® series, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane,
- hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene or polydecene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), the branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are available after the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred alcohol oils are for example Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G), octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,
- Blends of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters e.g. B. the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate),
- Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30 fatty acids Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, eg soybean oil, cottonseed oil. Sunflower, palm, palm kernel, linseed, almond, castor, corn, olive, rapeseed, sesame. Safflower oil. Wheat germ oil. Peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. Also suitable are synthetic triglyceride oils. in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, e.g.
- Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / dinutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for.
- di-n-octyiether (Cetiol ® OE)
- Particularly preferred oils are silicone oils and esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially volatile and non-volatile silicone oils from the Dow Corning 200 Fluid series and / or Dow Corning 9041, the ester oils 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl laurate and / or the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Ce-22-alkanols. in particular the commercial product Finsolv ®.
- compositions of the invention may also be preferred for some embodiments of the compositions of the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.
- mixtures of two types of oil components eg. as a silicone oil and an ester oil, preferably.
- Suitable emulsifiers may be used in the compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as emulsions, preferably in an amount of 0.50-10.00% by weight, more preferably 1.00-7.50% by weight and in particular 1.50-5 , 00 wt .-% be contained in the emulsions, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the emulsions.
- Particularly preferred emulsifiers may be selected from:
- PEG-x dimethicones where x
- PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones (available as DC 3225 C and DC 5225 C, respectively), PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8852) and bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone (available as Abil EM 97), Bis PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8832), PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicone (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440).
- emulsifiers are poly (C2-C3) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with Ci-Cis-alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides.
- cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone originally: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate
- saturated alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, z.
- cetyl alcohol stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as those obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,
- propoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms,
- Such partial esters are z.
- the monoglycerides of palmitic, stearic and oleic acid the sorbitan mono- and / or diesters, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids.
- the technical monoesters which are obtained by esterification of 1 mole of polyol with 1 mole of fatty acid, and represent a mixture of monoester, diester, triester and optionally unesterified polyol, can be used,
- low ethoxylated (3-5 EO) and / or propoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated castor oil or ethoxylated cholesterol.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain further optional constituents which give them advantageous properties.
- Other possible ingredients include in particular: surface-active substances, for example anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, which may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors , preferably those which are assigned to the groups A, B, F and H, and in particular vitamin E acetate, vitamin A-pa imitat, niacinamide, panthenol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and / or biotin.
- vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 1, 00% by weight in each case.
- Preservatives such as benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerol, which may be contained in the compositions of the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 2.00 wt .-%, physiologically acceptable acids and / or bases for adjusting the pH ,
- compositions according to the invention are suitable for lightening and / or smoothing the skin and can be used accordingly.
- the skin may be locally limited (e.g., to freckles, age spots and / or off-pigmentation, wrinkles) or treated over a large area (to brighten and / or unify the skin tone or skin surface).
- a second object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention
- compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
- compositions have been prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless stated otherwise, corresponding to the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
- Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
- Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
- Xanthan Gum 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
- Carbopol Ultrez ®3 30 0 0 10 to 2.00, from 15 to 1, 50 from 0.20 to 1, 0.25 to 1 25, 00
- Carbopol ETD®4 2020 0, 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
- Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
- Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
- Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50 Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
- Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
- Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
- Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
- Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
- Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
- Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
- Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
- hyaluronic acid salt Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
- Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
- Keltrol CG®9 Xanthan Gum Kelko
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Abstract
The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions, containing: a) at least one ascorbic acid ester, b) at least one extract of Opuntia ficus-indica, and c) at least one further plant extract, selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and/or Pisum sativum extract, which cosmetic or dermatological compositions are suitable for lightening the skin and/or reducing pigmentation of the skin and/or equalizing skin color and/or lightening age spots and/or freckles and/or stimulating collagen synthesis and/or hyaluronic acid synthesis and/or smoothing the skin surface and/or smoothing lines and/or wrinkles and/or evening out skin imperfections and/or achieving a more even complexion.
Description
"Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung zur Hautaufhellung" "Cosmetic or dermatological composition for skin lightening"
Die Erfindung liegt auf dem Gebiet der Kosmetik und betrifft Zusammensetzungen zur kosmetischen oder topischen dermatologischen Hautaufhellung, welche mindestens einen Ascorbinsäureester und mindestens zwei spezielle Pflanzenextrakte enthalten. The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to compositions for cosmetic or topical dermatological skin lightening which contain at least one ascorbic acid ester and at least two special plant extracts.
Die Erfindung betrifft weiterhin die Verwendung der kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen zur Aufhellung der Haut und/oder zur Aufhellung von Pigmentierungen der Haut sowie zur Glättung der Hautoberfläche und Erzielung eines ebenmäßigeren Hautbildes. The invention furthermore relates to the use of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions for lightening the skin and / or for lightening pigmentations of the skin and for smoothing the skin surface and achieving a more even skin appearance.
Die Pigmentierung der Haut erfolgt in den Melanozyten, welche in der untersten Schicht der Epidermis neben den Basalzellen als je nach Hauttyp entweder vereinzelt oder gehäuft auftretende pigmentbildende Zellen vorzufinden sind. Die Melanozyten bilden Melanosomen, in denen wiederum Melanin gebildet wird. Durch verschiedene chemische und/oder physikalische Einflüsse, insbesondere durch UV-Strahlung, wird verstärkt Melanin gebildet. Dieses wird über die Keratinozyten in die Corneozyten (Hornschicht) transportiert und führt zu einer bräunlichen bis braun-schwarzen Hautfarbe. Melanin wird als Endstufe eines oxidativen Prozesses gebildet, in welchem Tyrosin unter Mitwirkung des Enzyms Tyrosinase über mehrere Zwischenstufen zu den braun bis braunschwarzen Eumelaninen (DHICA- und DHI-Melanin) bzw. unter Beteiligung von schwefelhaltigen Verbindungen zum rötlichen Phäomelanin umgewandelt wird. The pigmentation of the skin takes place in the melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis next to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type. The melanocytes form melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted with the participation of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the involvement of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin.
Die Melaninbildung - und damit Haut- und Haarfarbe - unterliegt äußeren Einflüssen und kann neben erwünschten Effekten („gesunde Bräune") auch zu unerwünschten Erscheinungen führen. So kann insbesondere UV-Strahlung die Bildung von Sommersprossen verursachen. Fehlpigmentierungen können aber auch aufgrund genetischer Disposition, Wundheilung bzw. - vernarbung oder Hautalterung („Altersflecken") auftreten. Auch hormonell bedingte Störungen können für abnormale Reaktionen der Melanozyten und für eine verstärkte Anreicherung von Melanin in der Haut verantwortlich sein, wodurch unerwünschte - meist braune - Flecken auf der Haut entstehen. Melanin formation - and thus skin and hair color - is subject to external influences and, in addition to desired effects ("healthy tan"), can also lead to undesired phenomena, in particular UV radiation can cause the formation of freckles, but also due to genetic disposition, Wound healing or scarring or skin aging ("age spots") occur. Also, hormonal disorders may be responsible for abnormal melanocyte reactions and increased accumulation of melanin in the skin, resulting in unwanted - mostly brown - spots on the skin.
Bei der Hautalterung tritt weiterhin das Phänomen auf, dass sich tote oder geschädigte Hautzellen durch übliche kosmetische Hautbehandlungen (wie Peelings) nicht mehr zufriedenstellend entfernen lassen und stattdessen in den oberen Hautschichten akkumulieren. Kombiniert mit einer verringerten Erneuerungsrate von Hautzellen mit steigendem Alter kann es dadurch außer zur Bildung von Altersflecken auch zu einem unregelmäßigen Erscheinungsbild der Hautoberfläche kommen, wodurch Hautlinien und -falten besser sichtbar werden. Skin aging also involves the phenomenon that dead or damaged skin cells can no longer be satisfactorily removed by conventional cosmetic skin treatments (such as peelings) and instead accumulate in the upper layers of the skin. Combined with a reduced rate of renewal of skin cells with increasing age, it may also result in an irregular appearance of the skin surface except for the formation of age spots, making skin lines and wrinkles more visible.
Aus dem Stand der Technik ist eine Vielzahl hautaufhellender Zusammensetzungen bekannt.
In DE 102005031482 werden Hautaufhellungsmittel vorgeschlagen, die Ascorbinsäure oder deren physiologisch verträgliche Derivate oder Salze sowie 8-Hexadecen-1 ,16-dicarbonsäure, Sebacinsäure und/oder Azelainsäure enthalten. A variety of skin lightening compositions are known in the art. In DE 102005031482 skin whitening agents are proposed which contain ascorbic acid or its physiologically tolerated derivatives or salts and 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid and / or azelaic acid.
Dokument DE 102012222970 betrifft die Bereitstellung hautaufhellender Zusammensetzungen, die möglichst Naturstoff-basierte hautaufhellende Wirkstoffe (Exfolactive®) enthalten. Document DE 102012222970 relates to providing a skin lightening compositions, the possible natural product-based skin lightening agents (Exfolactive ®) included.
Es besteht dennoch der Bedarf nach gut verträglichen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen für die Behandlung stark pigmentierter und/oder gealterter Haut, die neben einem Aufhellungseffekt auch einen Glättungs- und Pflegeeffekt auf der Haut hervorrufen. However, there is still a need for well-tolerated cosmetic compositions for the treatment of heavily pigmented and / or aged skin which, in addition to a lightening effect, also cause a smoothing and care effect on the skin.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, mit denen in einem einzigen Behandlungsschritt mehrere Anzeichen der Hautalterung bekämpft werden können. Neben der Aufhellung unerwünschter Hautpigmentierungen und der Erzielung eines einheitlichen Hauttons sollten insbesondere auch Unregelmäßigkeiten der Hautoberfläche gemildert und/oder beseitigt werden, um ein insgesamt gleichmäßigeres Erscheinungsbild der Haut zu erreichen. It was an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological compositions with which several signs of skin aging can be combated in a single treatment step. In addition to the lightening of unwanted skin pigmentation and the achievement of a uniform skin tone, in particular irregularities of the skin surface should be mitigated and / or eliminated in order to achieve an overall more uniform appearance of the skin.
Eine weitere Aufgabe der Erfindung war es für die Herstellung der kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen gut hautverträgliche, möglichst auf Naturstoffen basierende Wirkstoffe oder Wirkstoffkombinationen zu finden. Another object of the invention was to find for the production of cosmetic or dermatological compositions well-tolerated, possibly based on natural substances or drug combinations.
Es hat sich überraschender Weise gezeigt, dass die Kombination von Ascorbinsäureestern mit einem Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica und mit mindestens einem weiteren Pflanzenextrakt, ausgewählt aus Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt, in einer kosmetischen Hautbehandlungszusammensetzung zu besonders guten Ergebnissen hinsichtlich Hautaufhellung, natürlichem Peeling und Glättung der Haut führte. It has surprisingly been found that the combination of ascorbic acid esters with an extract of Opuntia ficus indica and with at least one other plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract, in a cosmetic skin treatment composition to particularly good results in skin whitening, natural Exfoliation and smoothing of the skin resulted.
Ein erster Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist daher eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung, die A first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition which
a) mindestens einen Ascorbinsäureester, a) at least one ascorbic acid ester,
b) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica sowie b) at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica and
c) mindestens einen weiteren Pflanzenextrakt, ausgewählt aus Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und/oder aus Pisum sativum Extrakt enthält. c) contains at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
Als ersten wesentlichen Wirkstoff enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens einen Ascorbinsäureester a). As the first essential active ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one ascorbic acid ester a).
Geeignete Ascorbinsäureester a) im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bevorzugt ausgewählt sein aus Estern von Ascorbinsäure mit organischen Säuren gemäß der nachfolgenden Formel (I)
Suitable ascorbic acid esters a) for the purposes of the present invention may preferably be selected from esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids according to the following formula (I)
in der in the
einer bis vier der Reste R1 bis R4 für die Gruppierung -C(0)-R und die anderen Reste ggfs. für Wasserstoff stehen; und R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alk(en)ylrest mit 8 bis 24, bevorzugt mit 10 bis 20 und insbesondere mit 13 bis 17 Kohlenstoffatomen steht. one to four of the radicals R 1 to R 4 represent the moiety -C (O) -R and the other radicals may be hydrogen; and R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alk (en) yl radical having 8 to 24, preferably 10 to 20 and in particular 13 to 17 carbon atoms.
Ganz besonders bevorzugte Ester von Ascorbinsäure mit organischen Säuren sind die folgenden Verbindungen: Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbylisopalmitat, Ascorbyltetraisopalmitat, Ascorbylstearat, Ascorbylisostearat, Ascorbyloleat, und/oder Ascorbyllinoleat. Very particularly preferred esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids are the following compounds: ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate.
Aufgrund seines ausgezeichneten Penetrationsvermögens in die Haut ist Ascorbyltetraisopalmitat ein insbesondere bevorzugter organischer Ascorbinsäureester a). As a result of its excellent penetration into the skin, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a particularly preferred organic ascorbic acid ester a).
Weiterhin geeignete Ascorbinsäureester a) im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Ester von Ascorbinsäure mit anorganischen Säuren, bevorzugt mit Phosphorsäure oder Schwefelsäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Ascorbylphosphat und/oder Ascorbylsulfat bzw. die Alkali- oder Erdalkalisalze des Ascorbylphosphats und/oder Ascorbylsulfats, wie beispielsweise die unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate und/oder Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate bekannten Verbindungen. Also suitable ascorbic acid esters a) in the context of the present invention are esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids, preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid. Particularly preferred according to the invention are ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate or the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate, such as, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate ,
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ist aufgrund seiner ausgezeichneten Stabilität in wässrigen Medien ein insbesondere bevorzugter anorganischer Ascorbinsäureester a). Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is, due to its excellent stability in aqueous media, a particularly preferred inorganic ascorbic acid ester a).
Es wurde gefunden, dass eine Kombination von organischen Ascorbinsäureestern und anorganischen Ascorbinsäureestern in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen besonders geeignet ist, um eine optimale Aufhellung (pigmentierter) Haut zu erreichen und zusätzlich die Collagensynthese zu stimulieren. It has been found that a combination of organic ascorbic acid esters and inorganic ascorbic acid esters in the compositions according to the invention is particularly suitable for achieving optimal lightening (pigmented) skin and additionally stimulating collagen synthesis.
Besonders bevorzugt ist die Kombination Particularly preferred is the combination
i) mindestens eines Esters von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Carbonsäure mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen (ai)), und
ii) mindestens eines Esters von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer anorganischen Säure (aii)). i) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (ai)), and ii) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one inorganic acid (aii)).
Insbesondere bevorzugt ist die Kombination der unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen bekannten Verbindungen Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ai)) und Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (aii)). Especially preferred is the combination of compounds known as INCI names Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ai)) and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (aii)).
Der oder die Ascorbinsäureester a) kann (können) in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen, bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt von 0,10 bis 4,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,25 bis 3,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,50 bis 2,00 Gew.-% eingesetzt werden. The ascorbic acid ester (s) a) may be present in the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 4.00% by weight. , particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.50 to 2.00 wt .-% are used.
In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters a), vorzugsweise 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters ai) und 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters aii). In a particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive compositions contain, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic a), preferably 0.10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic ai) and 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of at least one ascorbic acid ester aii).
Insbesondere bevorzugt innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform sind erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen, die 0, 10 bis 2,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,20 bis 1 ,75 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 0,30 bis 1 ,50 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,40 bis 1 ,25 Gew.-% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ai)) sowie 0, 10 bis 2,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,20 bis 1 ,75 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 0,30 bis 1 ,50 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,40 bis 1 ,25 Gew.-% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (aii)) enthalten. Particularly preferred within this embodiment are compositions according to the invention which contain from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 1.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 1.50% by weight and in particular 0 , 40 to 1, 25 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ai)) and 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 1, 75 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 1, 50th Wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 1, 25 wt .-% magnesium ascorbyl phosphates (aii)).
Als zweiten wesentlichen Wirkstoff b) enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens einen Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica. As a second essential agent b), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
Es wurde gefunden, dass Opuntia ficus indica-Extrakt in Kombination mit Ascorbinsäureestern a) und mindestens einem weiteren erfindungswesentlichen Pflanzenextrakt c) die natürliche Abschuppung toter Hautzellen und die natürliche Zellerneuerung in der Haut in signifikanter Weise unterstützt. Die zusätzliche Anwendung mechanischer und/oder chemischer Peelings zur Reinigung/Glättung der Haut ist dadurch nicht mehr erforderlich. It has been found that Opuntia ficus indica extract in combination with ascorbic acid esters a) and at least one other essential plant extract c) significantly supports the natural desquamation of dead skin cells and the natural cell renewal in the skin. The additional application of mechanical and / or chemical peels for cleaning / smoothing the skin is no longer necessary.
Opuntia ficus indica ist eine Pflanzenart der Gattung Opuntia aus der Familie der Kakteengewächse (Cactaceae), die in Indien beheimatet ist. Extrakte aus Opuntien können nach bekannten Herstellungsverfahren in variabler Zusammensetzung mit Lösungsmitteln wie z.B. Wasser, Methanol, Ethanol, Aceton, etc., und deren Gemischen bei Temperaturen von 20°C bis 100°C unter gelinder bis heftiger Durchmischung innerhalb von 10 Min. bis 24 Std. unter Normaldruck bei bis zu 200 bar erhalten werden. Zur Anreicherung wirksamkeitsbestimmender Komponenten können weitere Konzentrierungsschritte durchgeführt werden wie z.B. flüssig-flüssig-Verteilung mit z.B. 1- Butanol/Wasser oder Ethylacetat/Wasser, Adsorption-Desorption an Ionenaustauschern, LH20, HP20 und anderen Harzen oder chromatographische Abtrennungen über RP18, Kieselgel, etc.. Falls
die Weiterverarbeitung zu Trockenextrakten erwünscht ist, erfolgt diese nach an sich bekannten Verfahren durch Abziehen des Lösungsmittels bei erhöhter Temperatur und/oder reduziertem Druck. Opuntia ficus indica is a species of the genus Opuntia of the cactus family (Cactaceae), which is native to India. Extracts from Opuntia can according to known manufacturing processes in a variable composition with solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures of 20 ° C to 100 ° C with gentle to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 Std. Under atmospheric pressure at up to 200 bar. For enrichment of activity-determining components, further concentration steps can be carried out, for example liquid-liquid distribution with, for example, 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchangers, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc. If the further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is carried out according to known methods by stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzungen, 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,20 bis 4,00 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 0,30 bis 3,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,40 bis 2,50 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica enthalten. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on the total weight of the compositions, they contain from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.30 to Contains 3.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 2.50 wt .-% of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
Die durch Extraktion gewonnenen Inhaltsstoffe können chemisch modifiziert werden, wobei insbesondere der Hydrolyse eine besondere Bedeutung zukommt. Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen, die, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzungen, 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,20 bis 4,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,30 bis 3,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,40 bis 2,50 Gew.-% mindestens eines ganz oder teilweise hydrolysierten Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica (CAS-Nr. 90082-21 -6) enthalten, sind weiterhin bevorzugte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung. The ingredients obtained by extraction can be chemically modified, in particular, the hydrolysis of particular importance. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the compositions, 0, 10 to 5.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 3.00 wt % and especially 0.40 to 2.50% by weight of at least one wholly or partially hydrolysed extract of Opuntia ficus indica (CAS No. 90082-21 -6) are furthermore preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Entsprechende Extrakte aus Opuntia ficus indica sind kommerziell erhältlich, beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Skin Moon® von der Firma Bionap oder Exfolactive® von der Firma Silab. Relevant extracts of Opuntia ficus indica are commercially available, for example under the name Skin Moon ® from Bionap or Exfolactive ® from Silab.
Als dritten wesentlichen Wirkstoff c) enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens einen weiteren Pflanzenextrakt, ausgewählt aus Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und/oder aus Pisum sativum Extrakt. As a third essential active substance c), the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt unterstützen die Kollagen- und Elastinsynthese in der Haut und tragen - gekoppelt mit den Wirkstoffen a) und b) in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen - beträchtlich zu der Erzielung eines besonders ebenmäßen und elastischen Erscheinungsbildes der Haut bei. Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract support the collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin and contribute - coupled with the active ingredients a) and b) in the compositions of the invention - considerably to the achievement of a particularly even and elastic appearance of the skin.
Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbambus) ist eine Pflanzenart aus der Familie der Süßgräser (Poaceae), die überwiegend in Südostasien und Afrika auftritt. Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbamboo) is a plant of the grass family (Poaceae), which occurs predominantly in Southeast Asia and Africa.
Pisum sativum ist eine Pflanzenart der Gattung Erbsen (Pisum) aus der Familie der Hülsenfrüchtler (Fabaceae) und stammt ursprünglich aus Kleinasien. Pisum sativum is a plant of the genus Peas (Pisum) from the legume family (Fabaceae) and is native to Asia Minor.
Extrakte von Bambusa vulgaris und/oder Pisum sativum können nach bekannten Herstellungsverfahren in variabler Zusammensetzung hergestellt werden. Extracts of Bambusa vulgaris and / or Pisum sativum can be prepared by known manufacturing processes in variable composition.
Vorteilhafterweise wird ein polares Lösemittel oder eine Mischung aus polaren Lösemitteln verwendet, um das Extrakt zu erhalten. Unter den gewöhnlichen Lösemitteln für die Extraktion kann ein protisches Lösemittel verwendet werden, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt wird, die besteht aus: Wasser, Methanol, Ethanol, Propanol, Butanol, Pentanol, Cyclohexanol, Diethylenglycol, HO-(CH2)2- OH und einer ihrer Mischungen. Ebenso kann ein aprotisches polares Lösemittel verwendet werden, das insbesondere aus der Gruppe ausgewählt wird, die besteht aus: Pyridin, Butanon, Aceton, AC2O,
(Me2N)2CO, PhCN, CH3CH2CN, HM PA, PhN02, McN02, DMF, MeCN, Sulfolan, DMSO, HCONH2, NCONHMe, CHsCONHMe und einer ihrer Mischungen. Advantageously, a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents is used to obtain the extract. Among the ordinary solvents for extraction, a protic solvent may be used which is selected from the group consisting of: water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, cyclohexanol, diethylene glycol, HO- (CH 2) 2 OH and one of their mixtures. It is likewise possible to use an aprotic polar solvent which is selected, in particular, from the group consisting of: pyridine, butanone, acetone, AC 2 O, (Me 2 N) 2 CO, PhCN, CH 3 CH 2 CN, HM PA, PhNO 2 , McNO 2 , DMF, MeCN, sulfolane, DMSO, HCONH 2, NCONHMe, CHsCONHMe and one of their mixtures.
Vorzugsweise wird Wasser oder eine Mischung aus Wasser und einem Alkohol, wie Ethanol, Propanol, Isopropanol oder Butanol, einem Polyol wie Butylenglycol oder einem Ester wie Ethylacetat oder eine Mischung dieser Lösemittel verwendet. Die Mischungsverhältnisse der oben erwähnten Lösemittel variieren im Allgemeinen zwischen 1 : 1 und 1 :100 und vorzugsweise zwischen 1 :1 und 1 : 10; zum Beispiel wird eine Mischung von 25/75 verwendet. Preferably, water or a mixture of water and an alcohol such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol, a polyol such as butylene glycol or an ester such as ethyl acetate or a mixture of these solvents is used. The mixing ratios of the above-mentioned solvents generally vary between 1: 1 and 1: 100, and preferably between 1: 1 and 1:10; for example, a mixture of 25/75 is used.
Die Extraktion kann durch Rühren und/oder Erhitzen durchgeführt werden, zum Beispiel zwischen 30 und 60°C oder durch Rückfluss des verwendeten Lösemittels. Die Extraktion erfolgt üblicherweise bei atmosphärischem Druck, wobei aber auch eine Extraktion unter Druck durchgeführt werden kann. Die Extraktionszeit wird vom Fachmann bestimmt und hängt insbesondere von den Extraktionsbedingungen ab. Es können mehrere Extraktionen durchgeführt und die erhaltenen Fraktionen vereint werden, falls dies gewünscht wird. The extraction can be carried out by stirring and / or heating, for example between 30 and 60 ° C or by reflux of the solvent used. The extraction is usually carried out at atmospheric pressure, but also an extraction under pressure can be carried out. The extraction time is determined by the skilled person and depends in particular on the extraction conditions. Multiple extractions may be performed and the resulting fractions pooled if desired.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthalten den mindestens einen Pflanzenextrakt c) - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-%. The compositions of the invention contain the at least one plant extract c) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-%.
Mehr bevorzugt ist eine Menge von 0,02 bis 4,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,03 bis 3,50 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,05 bis 3,00 Gew.-%. More preferred is an amount of from 0.02 to 4.00 wt%, more preferably from 0.03 to 3.50 wt%, and especially from 0.05 to 3.00 wt%.
Es wurde gefunden, dass die Verwendung einer Kombination von Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und Pisum sativum Extrakt in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen besonders bevorzugt ist. In diesem Fall enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% des mindestens einen Pflanzenextrakts c), vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) und 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Pisum sativum (cii)). It has been found that the use of a combination of Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract is particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. In this case, the compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of the at least one plant extract c), preferably 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) and 0.01 to 1, 00 wt .-% of at least one extract from Pisum sativum (cii)).
Im Handel sind Mischungen aus Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und Pisum sativum Extrakt erhältlich, beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Derm SRC® PF von der Firma Barnet Products. Mixtures of Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract are commercially available, for example under the trade name Derm SRC® PF from Barnet Products.
Eine besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the compositions according to the invention
a) i) mindestens einen Ester von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Carbonsäure mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, und a) i) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and
ii) mindestens einen Ester von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer anorganischen Säure, ii) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one inorganic acid,
b) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica sowie b) at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica and
c) i) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Bambusa vulgaris und c) i) at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris and
ii) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Pisum sativum enthalten.
Innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform sind solche kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen ganz besonders bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - a) i) 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbylisopalmitat, Ascorbyltetraisopalmitat, Ascorbylstearat, Ascorbylisostearat, Ascorbyloleat, und/oder Ascorbyllinoleat, ii) 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, ii) contain at least one extract of Pisum sativum. Within this embodiment, very particular preference is given to those cosmetic or dermatological compositions which, based on their total weight, comprise a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or Ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate und/oder Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate,
b) 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica, b) 0, 10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica,
c) i) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Bambusa vulgaris, und c) i) 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris, and
ii) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Pisum sativum enthalten. ii) 0.01 to 1, 00 wt .-% of at least one extract of Pisum sativum included.
Insbesondere bevorzugt innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform sind kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen, die - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - a) i) 0, 10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Ascorbyltetraisopalmitat, Particularly preferred within this embodiment are cosmetic or dermatological compositions which - based on their total weight - a) i) 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate,
ii) 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
b) 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica, b) 0, 10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica,
c) i) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Bambusa vulgaris, und c) i) 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris, and
ii) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Pisum sativum enthalten. ii) 0.01 to 1, 00 wt .-% of at least one extract of Pisum sativum included.
Neben einer zufriedenstellenden Wirkung gegen jedwede Form von Hautflecken, einem sehr guten Egalisierungseffekt des Hauttons und der Hautoberfläche ist es weiterhin erstrebenswert, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen die Haut auch pflegen. Unter „Pflege" im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird insbesondere die Steigerung der Hautfeuchtigkeit, Geschmeidigkeit und Elastizität der behandelten Haut verstanden. In addition to a satisfactory effect against any form of skin patches, a very good leveling effect of the skin tone and the skin surface, it is furthermore desirable that the compositions according to the invention also care for the skin. For the purposes of the present invention, "care" is understood to mean, in particular, the increase in skin moisture, suppleness and elasticity of the treated skin.
Es wurde gefunden, dass sich Hyaluronsäure und/oder physiologisch verträgliche Hyaluronsäuresalze und/oder physiologisch verträgliche Hyaluronsäureester besonders gut für die Kombination mit den Wirkstoffen a) - c) in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln eignen. It has been found that hyaluronic acid and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid salts and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid esters are particularly suitable for combination with the active compounds a) -c) in the compositions according to the invention.
Der Glättungseffekt der Hautstruktur kann dadurch noch weiter verstärkt werden. The smoothing effect of the skin structure can thereby be further enhanced.
Erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten gemäß einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform demnach zusätzlich mindestens einen haupflegenden Wirkstoff d), ausgewählt aus Hyaluronsäure, einem Ester und/oder einem Salz der Hyaluronsäure, in einer Menge (bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen) von 0,01 bis 20,00 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 bis 15,00 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt von 0,10 bis 10,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,25 bis 5,00 Gew.-%.
Unter geeigneten Salzen der Hyaluronsäure sind bevorzugt deren Alkalimetall- und/oder Ammoniumsalze zu verstehen, beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Sodium Hyaluronate von verschiedenen Anbietern (Therapo, CPN) im Handel erhältliche Hyaluronsäuresalz. Accordingly, according to a further preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one main active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20, 00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-% particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-%. Suitable salts of hyaluronic acid are preferably their alkali metal and / or ammonium salts, for example the hyaluronic acid salt commercially available under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate from various suppliers (Therapo, CPN).
Bevorzugte Ester der Hyaluronsäure können ausgewählt sein aus Silanolestern, wie sie beispielsweise unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate erhältlich sind. Ein bevorzugtes Handelsprodukt wird beispielsweise von der Firma Exsymol unter der Bezeichnung D.S.H. CN® im Handel angeboten. Preferred esters of hyaluronic acid may be selected from silanol esters, as obtainable, for example, under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate. A preferred commercial product is offered for example by the company under the name Exsymol DSH CN ® commercially.
Alternativ zu Hyaluronsäure in purer Form kann diese auch Bestandteil kleiner Kügelchen sein, welche den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen zugegeben werden können. Geeignete Kügelchen sind beispielsweise erhältlich unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hyaluronic Filling Spheres® von der Firma BASF. As an alternative to hyaluronic acid in pure form, it can also be part of small beads which can be added to the compositions according to the invention. Suitable beads are available, for example under the trade name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ® by the company BASF.
Eine weitere besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - a) i) 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbylisopalmitat, Ascorbyltetraisopalmitat, Ascorbylstearat, Ascorbylisostearat, Ascorbyloleat, und/oder Ascorbyllinoleat, ii) 0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise, based on their total weight, a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate und/oder Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate,
b) 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica, b) 0, 10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica,
c) i) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Bambusa vulgaris, c) i) 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris,
ii) 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Pisum sativum, und d) 0,01 bis 20,00 Gew.-% Hyaluronsäure und/oder ein unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Sodium Hyaluronate bekanntes Hyaluronsäuresalz und/oder einen unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate bekannten Hayluronsäureester enthalten. ii) 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Pisum sativum, and d) 0.01 to 20.00% by weight of hyaluronic acid and / or a hyaluronic acid salt known under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate and / or or contain a Hayluronsäureester known under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
Neben der Wirkstoffkombination a), b), c) enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt 10 bis 90 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 20 bis 85 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 30 bis 80 Gew.-%, noch weiter bevorzugt 40 bis 75 Gew.-% und insbesondere 50 bis 70 Gew.-% Wasser. In addition to the active ingredient combination a), b), c), the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 85% by weight, more preferably 30 to 80% by weight. %, more preferably 40 to 75 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 70 wt .-% water.
Daneben können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen weiterhin 1 bis 40 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2 bis 30 und insbesondere 3 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines Alkohols, vorzugsweise Glycol, 1 ,2-Propylenglycol, 1 ,3-Propylenglycol, 2-Methyl-1 ,3-propandiol, Glycerin, 1 ,2-Butylenglycol, 1 ,3-Butylenglycol,1 ,4-Butylenglycol, Pentylenglycole, 1 ,2-Hexandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,2,6-Hexantriol, 1 ,2-Octandiol, 1 ,8-Octandiol, Dipropylenglycol, Tripropylenglycol, Diglycerin, Triglycerin, Erythrit, Sorbit, Polyethylenglycol sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen enthalten.
Bevorzugt sind wasserlösliche Alkohole. In addition, the compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30 and especially from 3 to 20% by weight of at least one alcohol, preferably glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl- 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preference is given to water-soluble alcohols.
Bevorzugte wasserlösliche Polyethylenglycole können ausgewählt sein aus PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 und PEG-20 sowie Mischungen hiervon, wobei PEG-3 bis PEG-8 besonders bevorzugt sind. Auch Zucker und bestimmte Zuckerderivate wie Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Maltitol, Mannit, Inosit, Sucrose, Trehalose und Xylose können erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sein. Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols may be selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.
Besonders bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Alkohol 1 ,2- Propylenglycol, Glycerin, 1 ,3-Butylenglycol, Diglycerin, Triglycerin, Dipropylenglycol und/oder Tripropylenglycol. Particularly preferred compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.
Die Konfektionierung der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen richtet sich vorzugsweise nach den Anforderungen des Verwendungszwecks. The preparation of the compositions of the invention is preferably according to the requirements of the intended use.
Erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen können in fester, halbfester, flüssiger, disperser, emulgierter, suspendierter oder gelförmiger Form vorliegen. Weiterhin können sie als treibgashaltiges Aerosol oder treibgasfreies Pumpspray konfektioniert sein. Compositions of the invention may be in solid, semi-solid, liquid, disperse, emulsified, suspended or gel form. Furthermore, they can be formulated as propellant-containing aerosol or propellant-free pump spray.
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Form eines Hydrogels vorliegen. Hydrogele sind Wasser enthaltende Gele auf der Basis hydrophiler, aber wasserunlöslicher Polymere, die als dreidimensionale Netzwerke vorliegen. In Wasser quellen diese Netzwerke unter weitgehender Formerhaltung bis zu einem Gleichgewichtsvolumen auf. Die Netzwerkbildung erfolgt vorwiegend über chemische Verknüpfung der einzelnen Polymerketten, ist aber auch physikalisch durch elektrostatische, hydrophobe oder Dipol/Dipol-Wechselwirkungen zwischen einzelnen Segmenten der Polymerketten möglich. Über die Wahl der zum Polymeraufbau verwendeten Monomeren, die Art der Vernetzung und die Vernetzungsdichte können gewünschte Eigenschaften der Hydrogele gezielt eingestellt werden. Die notwendige Hydrophilie der Polymere liefern unter anderem Hydroxyl-, Carboxylat-, Sulfonat- und/oder Amid-Gruppen. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention may be in the form of a hydrogel. Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physically possible by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains. The choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to tailor desired properties of the hydrogels. The necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers provide, inter alia, hydroxyl, carboxylate, sulfonate and / or amide groups.
Synthetische Hydrogele basieren unter anderem auf - ggfs. vernetzten - Poly(meth)acrylsäuren, Poly(meth)acrylaten, Polyvinylpyrrolidon oder Polyvinylalkohol als Hydrogelbildner und/oder Stabilisierungsmittel. Synthetic hydrogels are based inter alia on - if necessary. Crosslinked - poly (meth) acrylic acids, poly (meth) acrylates, polyvinylpyrrolidone or polyvinyl alcohol as a hydrogel forming agent and / or stabilizer.
Bevorzugte anionische polymere Hydrogelbildner, die die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen unterstützen können, enthalten Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen und als Monomere zum Beispiel Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid und 2- Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure. Dabei können die sauren Gruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen. Bevorzugte Monomere sind 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Acrylsäure. Ganz besonders bevorzugte anionische Polymere enthalten als alleiniges Monomer oder als Comonomer 2- Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure, wobei die Sulfonsäuregruppe ganz oder teilweise in Salzform vorliegen kann. Innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform ist es bevorzugt, Copolymere aus mindestens einem anionischen Monomer und mindestens einem nichtionischen Monomer
einzusetzen. Bezüglich der anionischen Monomere wird auf die oben aufgeführten Substanzen verwiesen. Bevorzugte nichtionische Monomere sind Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Acrylsäureester, Methacrylsäureester, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylether und Vinylester. Preferred anionic polymeric hydrogel builders which can aid the action of the compositions of the present invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain as sole monomer or as a comonomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. Within this embodiment, it is preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer use. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
Bevorzugte anionische Copolymere sind Acrylsäure-Acrylamid-Copolymere sowie insbesondere Polyacrylamidcopolymere mit Sulfonsäuregruppen-haltigen Monomeren. Ein besonders bevorzugtes anionisches Copolymer besteht aus 70 bis 55 Mol-% Acrylamid und 30 bis 45 Mol-% 2- Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure, wobei die Sulfonsäuregruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen. Dieses Copolymer kann auch vernetzt vorliegen, wobei als Vernetzungsagentien bevorzugt polyolefinisch ungesättigte Verbindungen wie Tetraallyloxyethan, Allylsucrose, Allylpentaerythrit und Methylen-bisacrylamid zum Einsatz kommen. Ein solches Polymer ist in dem Handelsprodukt Sepigel® 305 der Firma SEPPIC enthalten. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups are wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
Auch die unter der Bezeichnungen Simulgel® 600, Simulgel® NS, Simulgel® EG, Simulgel® EPG und Sepiplus® 400 als Compound mit einem Öl wie Isohexadecan, Squalan oder hydriertem Polyisobuten, und einem Emulgator, wie Polysorbate, Laureth-7 oder Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, vertriebenen Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat-Copolymere (mit Monomeren, ausgewählt aus Acrylamid, Natriumacrylat, Hydroxyethylacrylat und/oder Acrylsäure) haben sich als erfindungsgemäß geeignet erwiesen. Also, the NS under the designations Simulgel ® 600, Simulgel ®, Simulgel ® EG, Simulgel ® EPG and Sepiplus ® 400 as a compound with an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, and an emulsifier, such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides, sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers (with monomers selected from acrylamide, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate and / or acrylic acid) have proven to be suitable according to the invention.
Weitere bevorzugte Hydrogelbildner sind Ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurat-Vinylpyrrolidon- Copolymere, insbesondere das Handelsprodukt Aristoflex® AVC von Clariant. Further preferred are hydrogel ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, in particular the commercial product Aristoflex ® AVC from Clariant.
Weitere besonders bevorzugte anionische Homopolymer-Hydrogelbildner sind unvernetzte und/oder vernetzte Poly(meth)acrylsäuren. Dabei können Allylether von Pentaerythrit, von Sucrose und von Propylen bevorzugte Vernetzungsagentien sein. Solche Verbindungen sind zum Beispiel die unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen Carbopol im Handel von verschiedenen Anbietern erhältlichen Produkte. Beispiele für besonders bevorzugte Carbopol-Handelsprodukte sind die Polymere der Carbopol Ultrez® - Reihe, die von der Firma Lubrizol erhältlich sind, wie Carbopol Ultrez® 30. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymer hydrogel formers are uncrosslinked and / or crosslinked poly (meth) acrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the products commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Carbopol. Examples of particularly preferred Carbopol commercial products are the polymers of the Carbopol Ultrez ® - series, available from Lubrizol as Carbopol Ultrez ® 30th
Ein weiterhin besonders bevorzugtes anionisches Copolymer enthält als Monomer zu 80-98% eine ungesättigte C3-6-Carbonsäure oder ihr Anhydrid sowie zu 2-20% Acrylsäureester von gesättigten Cio-30-Carbonsäuren, wobei das Copolymer mit den vorgenannten Vernetzungsagentien vernetzt sein kann. Entsprechende Handelsprodukte sind Pemulen® und die Carbopol®-Typen 954, 980, 1342 und ETD 2020 (ex Noveon bzw. B. F. Goodrich). A further particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer to 80-98% of an unsaturated C3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2-20% of acrylic acid esters of saturated Cio-30-carboxylic acids, which copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ®, and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon or BF Goodrich).
Bevorzugte nichtionische polymere Hydrogelbildner sind beispielsweise Polyvinylalkohole, die teilverseift sein können, z.B. die Handelsprodukte Mowiol® sowie Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester- Copolymere und Polyvinylpyrrolidone, die z.B. unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte natürliche Hydrogelbildner können bevorzugt ausgewählt sein aus - gewünschtenfalls physikalisch (thermisch) und/oder chemisch modifizierten - Cellulose-Derivaten, vorzugsweise aus Hydroxyalkylcellulosen wie Hydroxyethylcellulase, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, Methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, Carboxymethylcellulose weiterhin aus Stärken sowie Stärkeabbauprodukten wie Amylose und Amylopektin, aus chemisch und/oder thermisch modifizierten Stärken, z.B. Hydroxypropylstärkephosphat, Dihydroxypropyldistärkephosphat, insbesondere den anionischen Stärkederivaten Aluminiumstärkeoctenylsuccinat (z. B. die Handelsprodukte Dry Flo®), Natriumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, Calciumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, weiterhin Chitosan und dessen Derivaten, weiterhin Polysacchariden, die Gums oder Gummen bilden, wie beispielsweise Guar- Gum, Xanthan-Gum, Alginate, insbesondere Natriumalginat, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Carrageenane, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamen-Gums, Schellack und Agar-Agar. Preferred nonionic polymeric hydrogel, for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, the commercial products Mowiol ®, and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, for example, under the trade name Luviskol ® (BASF) for example. Preferred natural hydrogel formers according to the invention may preferably be selected from cellulose derivatives, if desired physically (thermally) and / or chemically modified, preferably from hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulase, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, furthermore from starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, from chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for example hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, in particular the anionic starch derivatives aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (for example the commercial products Dry Flo® ), sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and derivatives thereof, furthermore polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, especially sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum gruel, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar.
Es wurde gefunden, dass eine Kombination spezieller Polymere als Stabilisierungsmittel bzw. Hydrogelbildner für die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen ganz besonders geeignet ist. Sie gewährleisten ausgezeichnete Langzeitstabilität und sehr gute rheologische Eigenschaften der Zusammensetzungen, so dass diese besonders einfach und schnell auf die Haut aufgetragen und dort verteilt werden können. It has been found that a combination of special polymers as stabilizers or hydrogel formers is particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention. They ensure excellent long-term stability and very good rheological properties of the compositions, so that they can be applied to the skin particularly easily and quickly and distributed there.
Als besonders geeignet hat sich dabei die Kombination Particularly suitable is the combination
mindestens eines natürlichen Hydrogelbildners, vorzugsweise eines Polysaccharids und insbesondere von Xanthan Gum, und at least one natural hydrogel former, preferably a polysaccharide and in particular xanthan gum, and
mindestens eines synthetischen Polymeren auf (Meth)acrylsäurebasis herausgestellt. at least one synthetic (meth) acrylic acid-based polymer.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, daher bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Stabilisierungsmittels, vorzugsweise eine Kombination von Stabilisierungsmitteln, enthaltend mindestens ein Polysaccharid, insbesondere Xanthan Gum, und mindestens ein (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, therefore preferably contain 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one stabilizing agent, preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, and at least one (Meth) acrylic acid homopolymer and / or copolymer.
Innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform ist es besonders bevorzugt, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the inventive
Zusammensetzungen (bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht) Compositions (based on their total weight)
0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Polysaccharids, bevorzugt Xanthan Gum, 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of at least one polysaccharide, preferably xanthan gum,
0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines vernetzten oder unvernetzten (Meth)acrylsäure-0.10 to 2.00% by weight of at least one crosslinked or uncrosslinked (meth) acrylic acid
Homopolymeren und Homopolymers and
0,10 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines vernetzten oder unvernetzten Copolymeren von (Meth)acrylsäure und Acrylsäureestern gesättigter Cio-30-Carbonsäuren enthalten. 0.10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid and acrylic acid esters of saturated Cio-30-carboxylic acids.
In einer weiteren besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform liegen die erfindungsmäßen Zusammensetzungen in Form einer Emulsion vor, beispielsweise vom Typ Wasser-in-ÖI (W/O) oder
Öl-in-Wasser (O/W), einer multiplen Emulsion vom Typ Wasser-in-ÖI-in-Wasser (W/O/W) oder Öl- in-Wasser-in-ÖI (O/W/O). In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or Oil-in-water (O / W), a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion.
Vorzugsweise liegen die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Form einer Öl-in-Wasser- Emulsion vor. Derartige ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsionen können, ebenfalls bevorzugt, durch mindestens einen der vorstehend genannten Hydrogelbildner stabilisiert vorliegen. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Such oil-in-water emulsions may, also preferably, be stabilized by at least one of the abovementioned hydrogel formers.
Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können beispielsweise in Form von Cremes, Lotionen und/oder kosmetischen Milchen vorliegen und neben den zuvor genannten Wirkstoffen weiterhin Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren enthalten. For the purposes of the present invention, emulsions may, for example, be in the form of creams, lotions and / or cosmetic milks and, in addition to the aforementioned active substances, furthermore contain fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances and also water and one or more emulsifiers.
Die Ölphase liegt in erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Emulsionen vorzugsweise in einem Gewichtsanteil von 0.50 - 50.00 Gew.-% am Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion vor, mehr bevorzugt von 1 ,00 - 40,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 1 ,50 - 30.00 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt von 2,00 - 25.00 Gew.-%. The oil phase is present in preferred emulsions according to the invention preferably in a weight fraction of 0.50-50.00 wt .-% of the total weight of the emulsion, more preferably from 1.00 to 40.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1.50 to 30.00 wt. %, and most preferably from 2.00 to 25.00% by weight.
Der oder die Emukjator(en) wird(werden) weder zur Ölphase noch zur Wasserphase gezählt. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform besteht die Ölphase zu mindestens 90 Gew.-% aus einer bei 20 °C flüssigen Ölkomponente. The Emukjator (s) is (are) counted neither the oil phase nor the water phase. In a preferred embodiment, the oil phase consists of at least 90 wt .-% of an oil component at 20 ° C liquid.
Bevorzugte Ölkomponenten, die in erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Emulsionen eingesetzt werden können, sind beispielsweise ausgewählt aus: Preferred oil components which can be used in emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are selected, for example, from:
flüchtigen Silikonölen, die cyclisch sein können, wie z. B. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan und Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan sowie Mischungen hiervon, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 244, 245, 344 und 345 von Dow Corning enthalten sind, oder linear, z. B. Hexamethyldisiloxan (L 2), Octamethyltrisiloxan (L 3), Decamethyltetrasiloxan (L 4), beliebige Zweier- und Dreiermischungen aus L 2. L 3 und/oder L 4, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 2-1 184, Dow Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt) und Dow Corning® 200 (1.5 cSt) von Dow Corning enthalten sind, volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4), any two- and three-mixtures of L 2. L 3 and / or L 4, as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are contained,
nichtflüchtigen höhermolekularen linearen Dimethylpolysiloxanen, im Handel erhältlich z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Dow Corning® 190. Dow Corning® 200 Fluid mit Viskositäten im Bereich von 5 - 100 cSt, bevorzugt 5 - 50 cSt oder auch 5 - 10 cSt, und Baysilon® 350 M. nonvolatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. Dow Corning® 190. Dow Corning® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon® 350M .
den Estern von linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 2 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Dazu zählen 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (z. B. Cegesoft® C 24), Hexyldecylstearat (Eutanot® G 16), Hexyldecyllaurat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylstearat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropylisostearat, Isopropyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isocetylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, Isotridecylisononanoat, Cetearylisononanot, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2- Ethylhexylisostearat, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Butyloctansäure-2-
butyloctanoat, Diisotridecylacetat, n-Butyistearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyioieat, Oieyioleat,the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B. Cegesoft ® C 24), hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanot ® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2 butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decylate, oxy-ylate,
Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat. Ethylenglycoldioleat und -dipalmitat, Oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate. Ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate,
den Benzoesäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten Ce-22-Alkanolen, z.B. die Produktethe benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Ce-22-alkanols, e.g. the products
Finsolv® TN (Ci2-Ci5-Alkylbenzoat), Finsolv® SB (Isostearylbenzoat) und Finsolv® EB (Ethylhexylbenzoat). Finsolv ® TN (Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate), Finsolv ® SB (isostearyl benzoate), and Finsolv EB ® (ethylhexyl).
den Cs-Cz2-Fettalkoholestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C2-C'-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, insbesondere den Estern der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure und Salicylsäure. Solche Ester auf Basis von linearen C12 15-Alkanolen, z. B. Cw-Cis-Alkyllactat, und von in 2-Position verzweigten C12 1 >-Alkanolen, z. B. Di-Ci2-Ci i-Alkylmalat, sind unter dem Warenzeichen Cosmacol® von der Firma Nord mann. Rassmann GmbH & Co, zu beziehen, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol® EMI. Cosmacol® ESI und Cosmacol® ETI, den Anlagerungsprodukten von Ethyienoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an ein- oder mehrwertige C3- 20-Alkanole wie Butanoi, Butandiol. Myristylaikohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-14-Butylether (Ucon Fluid®, PPG-9-Butylether (Breox® B25). PPG-10-Butandiol (Macol® 57). PPG-3- Myristylether (Witconol® APM) und PPG-15-Stearylether (Arlamol® E), the Cs-Cz2 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C 2 -C -hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C12 15-alkanols, eg. B. Cw-Cis-alkyl lactate, and branched in 2-position C12 1> alkanols, for. B. di-Ci2-Ci i-Alkylmalat are man under the trademark Cosmacol® ® by the company Nord. To refer Rassmann GmbH & Co, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ® EMI. Cosmacol ® ESI Cosmacol ® and EIT, the addition products of Ethyienoxid and / or propylene oxide with mono- or polyhydric alkanols, such as C3-20 Butanoi, butanediol. Myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ®, PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®). PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57). PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® e)
flüssigen Paraffinölen. Isoparaffinölen. z. B. die Handelsprodukte der Permethyl® -Serie, insbesondere Isododecan, Isohexadecan und Isoeicosan, liquid paraffin oils. Isoparaffin. z. B. the commercial products of the Permethyl ® series, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane,
synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen wie Polyisobuten oder Polydecen und alicyclischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, z. B. das Handelsprodukt 1 ,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol® S), den verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Diese Alkohole werden häufig auch als Guerbet-Alkohole bezeichnet, da sie nach der Guerbet- Reaktion erhältlich sind. Besonders bevorzugte Alkoholöle sind beispielsweise Hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G), Octyldodecanol und 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene or polydecene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), the branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are available after the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred alcohol oils are for example Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G), octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,
Mischungen aus Guerbetalkoholen und Guerbetalkoholestern, z. B. das Handelsprodukt Cetiol® PGL (Hexyldecanol und Hexyldecyl laurat), Blends of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. B. the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate),
den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat. Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol® CC), the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate. Dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
Triglyceriden von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C 8-30-Fettsäuren. Besonders geeignet kann die Verwendung natürlicher Öle, z.B. Sojaöl, Baumwollsaatöl. Sonnenblumenöl, Palmöl, Palmkernöl, Leinöl, Mandelöl, Rizinusöl, Maisöl, Olivenöl, Rapsöl, Sesamöl. Distelöl. Weizenkeimöl. Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls und dergleichen sein. Geeignet sind aber auch synthetische Triglyceridöle. insbesondere Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Myritol® 318, MyritoF* 331 (Cognis) oder Miglyol® 812 (Hüls) sowie Glyceryltriisostearin und die Handelsprodukte Estol® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) oder Myritol® GTEH (Cognis), Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, eg soybean oil, cottonseed oil. Sunflower, palm, palm kernel, linseed, almond, castor, corn, olive, rapeseed, sesame. Safflower oil. Wheat germ oil. Peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. Also suitable are synthetic triglyceride oils. in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, e.g. , The commercial products Myritol ® 318 MyritoF * 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ® 812 (Hüls) as well as glyceryl and the commercial products Estol ® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ® GTEH (Cognis),
Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C2-Cio-Alkanolen, insbesondere Diisopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Din-butyl/ Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethylhexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat,
Di-n-alkylethern mit insgesamt 12 bis 36, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, z. B. Di-n-octyiether (Cetiol® OE), Di-n-Hexyl-n-octyiether und n-Octyl-n-decylether. Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / dinutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyiether (Cetiol ® OE), di-n-hexyl-n-octyiether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.
Besonders bevorzugte Öle sind Silikonöle und Ester von linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 2 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, vor allem flüchtige und nichtflüchtige Siiikonöle aus der Serie Dow Corning 200 Fluid und/oder Dow Corning 9041 , die Esteröle 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, Hexyldecyllaurat, 2-Ethylhexylstearat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat und 2-Ethylhexyl laurat und/oder die Benzoesäureester von linearen oder verzweigten Ce-22-Alkanolen. insbesondere das Handelsprodukt Finsolv®. Particularly preferred oils are silicone oils and esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially volatile and non-volatile silicone oils from the Dow Corning 200 Fluid series and / or Dow Corning 9041, the ester oils 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl laurate and / or the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Ce-22-alkanols. in particular the commercial product Finsolv ®.
Es kann für einige Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen ebenfalls bevorzugt sein, Mischungen der vorgenannten Öle einzusetzen. Dabei sind besonders Mischungen aus zwei Ölkomponententypen, z. B. einem Silikonöl und einem Esteröl, bevorzugt. It may also be preferred for some embodiments of the compositions of the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. In particular, mixtures of two types of oil components, eg. As a silicone oil and an ester oil, preferably.
Geeignete Emulgatoren können in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen, die als Emulsionen konfektioniert werden, bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,50 - 10.00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1 ,00 - 7,50 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 1 ,50 - 5,00 Gew.-% in den Emulsionen enthalten sein, wobei sich die Mengenangaben auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsionen beziehen. Besonders bevorzugte Emulgatoren können ausgewählt sein aus: Suitable emulsifiers may be used in the compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as emulsions, preferably in an amount of 0.50-10.00% by weight, more preferably 1.00-7.50% by weight and in particular 1.50-5 , 00 wt .-% be contained in the emulsions, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the emulsions. Particularly preferred emulsifiers may be selected from:
Poly-(C2-Cri)alkylenglycol-modifizierten Silikonen mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen PEG-x Dimethicone (mit x = 2 - 20, bevorzugt 3-17, besonders bevorzugt 1 1-12), Bis-PEG-y Dimethicone (mit y = 3-25, bevorzugt 4 - 20), PEG/PPG a/b Dimethicone (wobei a und b unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 2- 30, bevorzugt 3-30 und besonders bevorzugt 12-20, insbesondere 14-18, stehen), Bis-PEG/PPG-c/d Dimethicone (wobei c und d unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 10-25, bevorzugt 14-20 und besonders bevorzugt 14-16. stehen) und Bis-PEG/PPG-e/f PEG/PPG g/h Dimethicone (wobei e, f, g und h unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 10-20, bevorzugt 14-18 und besonders bevorzugt 16. stehen). Besonders bevorzugt sind PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone. (als DC 3225 C bzw. DC 5225 C im Handel erhältlich), PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone (als Abil B 8852 erhältlich) sowie Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone (als Abil EM 97 erhältlich), Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone (als Abil B 8832 erhältlich), PEG/PPG-5/3 Trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), sowie PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone (Silsoft 430 und Silsoft 440). Poly- (C2-Cri) alkylene glycol-modified silicones with the INCI names PEG-x dimethicones (where x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 1-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (wherein a and b independently of one another represent numbers of 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferably 12-20, in particular 14-18,) Bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another represent numbers of 10-25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (wherein e, f, g and h independently of one another represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16). Particularly preferred are PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones. (available as DC 3225 C and DC 5225 C, respectively), PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8852) and bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone (available as Abil EM 97), Bis PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8832), PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicone (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Emulgatoren sind Poly-(C2-C3)alkylenglycolmodifizierte Silikone, die mit C-i-Cis-Alkylgruppen hydrophob modifiziert sind, besonders bevorzugt Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (früher: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, erhältlich als Abil EM 90 oder in einer Mischung aus Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone und Hexyllaurat unter der Handelsbezeichnung Abil WE 09), weiterhin Alkyl Methicone Copolyole und Alkyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside.
gesättigten Alkoholen mit 8 - 24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16 - 22 C-Atomen, z. B. Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol oder Behenylalkohol oder Gemischen dieser Alkohole, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhalten werden, Further inventively preferred emulsifiers are poly (C2-C3) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with Ci-Cis-alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides. saturated alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, z. As cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as those obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,
ethoxylierten Alkoholen und Carbonsäuren mit 8 - 24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16 - 22 C- Atomen, wie beispielsweise Steareth-2 oder Steareth-21 , ethoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, such as, for example, steareth-2 or steareth-21,
propoxylierten Alkoholen und Carbonsäuren mit 8 - 24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16 - 22 C- Atomen, propoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms,
Partialestern aus einem Polyol mit 3 - 6 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettsäuren mit 8 - 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Solche Partialester sind z. B. die Monoglyceride von Palmitin-, Stearinsäure und Ölsäure, die Sorbitanmono- und/oder -diester, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren. Hier sind auch die Monoester aus Trimethylolpropan, Erythrit oder Pentaerythrit und gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 14 - 22 C-Atomen zu nennen. Auch die technischen Monoester, die durch Veresterung von 1 Mol Polyol mit 1 Mol Fettsäure erhalten werden, und ein Gemisch aus Monoester, Diester, Triester und ggf. unverestertem Polyol darstellen, sind einsetzbar, Partial esters of a polyol having 3 to 6 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids having 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. Such partial esters are z. As the monoglycerides of palmitic, stearic and oleic acid, the sorbitan mono- and / or diesters, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids. Also to be mentioned here are the monoesters of trimethylolpropane, erythritol or pentaerythritol and saturated fatty acids having 14-22 carbon atoms. The technical monoesters, which are obtained by esterification of 1 mole of polyol with 1 mole of fatty acid, and represent a mixture of monoester, diester, triester and optionally unesterified polyol, can be used,
Polyglycerinestern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 - 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, vorzugsweise bis zu 3 Glycerineinheiten und einem Veresterungsgrad von 1- 10, vorzugsweise 1-5, Polyglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, with up to 10 glycerol units, preferably up to 3 glycerol units and a degree of esterification of 1-10, preferably 1- 5,
Mono- und/oder Polyglycerinethern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 - 30, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, mit bis zu 10 Glycerineinheiten, vorzugsweise bis zu 3 Glycerineinheiten und einem Veretherungsgrad von 1-10, vorzugsweise 1-5, Mono- and / or polyglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, with up to 10 glycerol units, preferably up to 3 glycerol units and an etherification degree of 1- 10, preferably 1-5,
Propylenglycolestern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 - 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms,
Methylglucose-Estern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 - 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms,
Polyglycerin-Methylglucose-Estern gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 - 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C- Atomen. Es kann erfindungsgemäB von Vorteil sein, dass niedrig ethoxylierte (3 - 5 EO) und/oder propoxylierte Produkte Verwendung finden, beispielsweise polyethoxyliertes hydrogeniertes oder nichthydrogeniertes Ricinusöl oder ethoxyliertes Cholesterin. Polyglycerol-methylglucose esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. It may be advantageous according to the invention that low ethoxylated (3-5 EO) and / or propoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated castor oil or ethoxylated cholesterol.
Neben den zuvor genannten kosmetischen Inhalts- und Wirkstoffen können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen noch weitere fakultative Bestandteile enthalten, die ihnen vorteilhafte Eigenschaften verleihen. Zu den weiteren möglichen Inhaltsstoffen zählen insbesondere:
oberflächenaktive Stoffe, beispielsweise anionische, amphotere, zwitterionische, nichtionische und kationische Tenside, die in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen (bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht) jeweils in Mengen von 0.10 bis 5,00 Gew.-% enthalten sein können, Vitamine, Provitamine und/oder Vitaminvorstufen, bevorzugt solche, die den Gruppen A, B, F und H zugeordnet werden, und insbesondere Vitamin E-acetat, Vitamin A-pa Imitat, Niacinamid, Panthenol, Linolsäure, Linolensäure und/oder Biotin. Die Vitamine, Provitamine und/oder Vitaminvorstufen können in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen (bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht) jeweils in Mengen von 0.01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% enthalten sein. In addition to the cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention may also contain further optional constituents which give them advantageous properties. Other possible ingredients include in particular: surface-active substances, for example anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, which may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors , preferably those which are assigned to the groups A, B, F and H, and in particular vitamin E acetate, vitamin A-pa imitat, niacinamide, panthenol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and / or biotin. The vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 1, 00% by weight in each case.
Konservierungsmittel wie beispielsweise Benzoesäurederivate, Phenoxyethanol, Octoxyglycerin, die in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen (bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht) jeweils in Mengen von 0.01 bis 2,00 Gew.-% enthalten sein können, physiologisch verträgliche Säuren und/oder Basen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes. Preservatives such as benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerol, which may be contained in the compositions of the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 2.00 wt .-%, physiologically acceptable acids and / or bases for adjusting the pH ,
Parfüms. Perfumes.
- UV-Filter. - UV filter.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen eignen sich zur Aufhellung und/oder Glättung der Haut und können dementsprechend verwendet werden. The compositions according to the invention are suitable for lightening and / or smoothing the skin and can be used accordingly.
Dabei kann die Haut lokal begrenzt (z.B. auf Sommersprossen, Altersflecken und/oder Fehlpigmentierungen, Falten) oder großflächig (zur Aufhellung und/oder Vereinheitlichung des Hauttons oder der Hautoberfläche) behandelt werden. The skin may be locally limited (e.g., to freckles, age spots and / or off-pigmentation, wrinkles) or treated over a large area (to brighten and / or unify the skin tone or skin surface).
Ein zweiter Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die nicht-therapeutische, kosmetische Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzung zur A second object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention
Aufhellung der Haut und/oder Lightening of the skin and / or
Reduzierung der Pigmentierung der Haut und/oder Reduction of pigmentation of the skin and / or
Egalisierung der Hautfarbe und/oder Leveling of the skin color and / or
Aufhellung von Altersflecken und/oder Sommersprossen und/oder Stimulierung der Collagen- und/oder Hyaluronsäuresynthese und/oder Lightening of age spots and / or freckles and / or stimulation of collagen and / or hyaluronic acid synthesis and / or
Glättung der Hautoberfläche und/oder Smoothing of the skin surface and / or
Glättung von Linien und/oder Fältchen und/oder Smoothing of lines and / or wrinkles and / or
Ausgleichung von Hautunregelmäßigkeiten und/oder Adjustment of skin irregularities and / or
Erzielung eines ebenmäßigeren Hautbildes. Achieving a smoother skin appearance.
Bezüglich bevorzugter Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendung gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Gesagte. With regard to preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
Die folgenden Beispiele erläutern die Erfindung, ohne sie jedoch darauf einzuschränken:
Beispiele: The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to: Examples:
Es wurden die folgenden kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzungen hergestellt, wobei alle Zahlenwerte in den nachfolgenden Beispielen - sofern nicht anders angegeben - der Menge des jeweiligen Wirkstoffs in Gewichtsprozent, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, entsprechen: The following cosmetic or dermatological compositions have been prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless stated otherwise, corresponding to the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:
Formel 12 Formel 13 Formel 14 Formel 15Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt
Hyaluronsäure, 0,01 bis 20,0 0,05 bis 15,0 0, 10 bis 10,0 0,25 bis 5,00Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
Hyaluronsäureester und/oder Hyaluronic acid esters and / or
Hyaluronsäuresalz hyaluronic acid salt
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Formel 28 Formel 29 Formel 30 Formel 31Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30 Formula 31
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
Xanthan Gum 0, 10 bis 2,00 0, 15 bis 1 ,50 0,20 bis 1 ,25 0,25 bis 1 ,00 Xanthan Gum 0, 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
Carbopol Ultrez®3 30 0, 10 bis 2,00 0, 15 bis 1 ,50 0,20 bis 1 ,25 0,25 bis 1 ,00Carbopol Ultrez ®3 30 0 0 10 to 2.00, from 15 to 1, 50 from 0.20 to 1, 0.25 to 1 25, 00
Carbopol ETD®4 2020 0, 10 bis 2,00 0, 15 bis 1 ,50 0,20 bis 1 ,25 0,25 bis 1 ,00Carbopol ETD®4 2020 0, 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Formel 36 Formel 37 Formel 38 Formel 39Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
Hyaluronsäure, 0,01 bis 20,0 0,05 bis 15,0 0, 10 bis 10,0 0,25 bis 5,00 Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
Hyaluronsäureester und/oder Hyaluronic acid esters and / or
Hyaluronsäuresalz hyaluronic acid salt
Polysaccharid und/oder 0,01 bis 5,00 0,05 bis 4,00 0, 10 bis 3,00 0,25 bis 2,50 (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Formel 40 Formel 41 Formel 42 Formel 43 Formula 40 Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43
Ascorbinsäureester 0,01 bis 5,00 0, 10 bis 4,00 0,25 bis 3,00 0,50 bis 2,00Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50 Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
Hyaluronic Filling Sheres®1 0,01 bis 10,0 0,05 bis 7,50 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,25 bis 3,00Hyaluronic Filling Sheres ®1 0.01 to 10.0 0.05 to 7.50 0 10 to 5.00 0.25 to 3.00
D.S.H. C N®2 0, 10 bis 10,0 0,25 bis 7,50 0,50 bis 6,00 0,75 bis 5,00DSH CN®2 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 7.50 0.50 to 6.00 0.75 to 5.00
Polysaccharid und/oder 0,01 bis 5,00 0,05 bis 4,00 0, 10 bis 3,00 0,25 bis 2,50 (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Formel 52 Formel 53 Formel 54 Formel 55Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55
Ascorbinsäureester 0,01 bis 5,00 0, 10 bis 4,00 0,25 bis 3,00 0,50 bis 2,00
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00 Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
Hyaluronsäure, 0,01 bis 20,0 0,05 bis 15,0 0, 10 bis 10,0 0,25 bis 5,00 Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
Hyaluronsäureester und/oder Hyaluronic acid esters and / or
Hyaluronsäuresalz hyaluronic acid salt
Polysaccharid und/oder 0,01 bis 5,00 0,05 bis 4,00 0, 10 bis 3,00 0,25 bis 2,50 (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
Finsolv®5 TN 0,50 bis 10,0 0,75 bis 7,50 1 ,00 bis 6,00 1 ,25 bis 5,00Finsolv TN ®5 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
Dow Corning 9041®6 0.10 bis 7,50 0,25 bis 6,00 0,50 bis 5,00 0,75 bis 4,00Dow Corning 9041 ®6 0.10 to 7.50 0.25 to 6.00 0.50 to 5.00 0.75 to 4.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0,50 bis 10,0 0,75 bis 7,50 1 ,00 bis 6,00 1 ,25 bis 5,00Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Formel 60 Formel 61 Formel 62 Formel 63Formula 60 Formula 61 Formula 62 Formula 63
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0,01 bis 2,00 0,20 bis 1 ,75 0,30 bis 1 ,50 0,40 bis 1 ,25Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.01 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.75 0.30 to 1.50 0.40 to 1.25
Opuntia ficus indica Extrakt 0, 10 bis 5,00 0,20 bis 4,00 0,30 bis 3,00 0,40 bis 2,50Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt 0,01 bis 5,00 0,02 bis 4,00 0,03 bis 3,50 0,05 bis 3,00 und/oder Pisum sativum Extrakt Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
Hyaluronsäure, 0,01 bis 20,0 0,05 bis 15,0 0, 10 bis 10,0 0,25 bis 5,00 Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
Hyaluronsäureester und/oder Hyaluronic acid esters and / or
Hyaluronsäuresalz
Polysaccharid und/oder 0,01 bis 5,00 0,05 bis 4,00 0, 10 bis 3,00 0,25 bis 2,50 (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer hyaluronic acid salt Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
Finsolv®5 TN 0,50 bis 10,0 0,75 bis 7,50 1 ,00 bis 6,00 1 ,25 bis 5,00Finsolv TN ®5 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
Dow Corning 9041®6 0.10 bis 7,50 0,25 bis 6,00 0,50 bis 5,00 0,75 bis 4,00Dow Corning 9041 ®6 0.10 to 7.50 0.25 to 6.00 0.50 to 5.00 0.75 to 4.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 0,50 bis 10,0 0,75 bis 7,50 1 ,00 bis 6,00 1 ,25 bis 5,00Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
Wasser und weitere Inhaltsstoffe ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
INCI-Bezeichnung Lieferant / HerstellerINCI name Supplier / Manufacturer
Hyaluronic Filling Sheres®1 Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl BASF Hyaluronic Filling Sheres ® 1 Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl BASF
Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Silylates, butylenes glycol, hyaluronic acid
Acid acid
D.S.H. C N®2 Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol DSH CN®2 dimethylsilanol hyaluronate exsymol
Carbopol Ultrez®3 30 Carbomer Lubrizol Carbopol Ultrez®3 30 Carbomer Lubrizole
Carbopol ETD®4 2020 Acrylates/Cio-3o Alkyl Acrylate Lubrizol Carbopol ETD®4 2020 Acrylates / Cio-3o Alkyl Acrylates Lubrizole
Crosspolymer Crosspolymer
Finsolv®5 TN C-12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Innospec Finsolv TN ®5 C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Innospec
Dow Corning 9041®6 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Dow Corning Dow Corning 9041 ®6 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Dow Corning
Crosspolymer
Exfolactive EL®7 Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus indica Silab Crosspolymer Exfolactive EL®7 Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus indica Silab
Flower Extract Flower extract
Derm SCR®8 PF Bambusa vulgaris Extract, Pisum Barnet sativum Extract, Glucosamine HCl, Derm SCR®8 PF Bambusa vulgaris Extract, Pisum Barnet sativum Extract, Glucosamine HCl,
Water Water
Keltrol CG®9 Xanthan Gum KelkoKeltrol CG®9 Xanthan Gum Kelko
SymSol®10 PF-3 Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Symrise SymSol ®10 PF-3 Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Symrise
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate,
Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium
Chloride, Sodium Oleate
Chloride, sodium oleate
Claims
1. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung, enthaltend 1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition containing
a) mindestens einen Ascorbinsäureester, a) at least one ascorbic acid ester,
b) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica sowie b) at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica and
c) mindestens einen weiteren Pflanzenextrakt, ausgewählt aus Bambusa vulgaris Extrakt und/oder aus Pisum sativum Extrakt. c) at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
2. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it
a) i) mindestens einen Ester von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Carbonsäure mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, und a) i) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and
ii) mindestens einen Ester von Ascorbinsäure und mindestens einer anorganischen Säure, ii) at least one ester of ascorbic acid and at least one inorganic acid,
b) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Opuntia ficus indica sowie b) at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica and
c) i) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Bambusa vulgaris und c) i) at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris and
ii) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Pisum sativum enthält. ii) contains at least one extract of Pisum sativum.
3. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters a), vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters ai) und 0, 1 bis 2,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ascorbinsäureesters aii) enthält. 3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic a), preferably 0.1 to 2.00 parts by weight. % of at least one ascorbic acid ester ai) and 0, 1 to 2.00% by weight of at least one ascorbic acid ester aii).
4. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie als Ascorbinsäureester a) eine Kombination der unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen bekannten Verbindungen Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ai)) und Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (aii)) enthält. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains as ascorbic a) a combination of known under the INCI names compounds ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ai)) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphates (aii)).
5. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 0, 10 bis 5,00 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,20 bis 4,00 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,30 bis 3,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,40 bis 2,50 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Opuntia ficus indica enthält. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it, based on their total weight, 0, 10 to 5.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 30 to 3.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 2.50 wt .-% of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
6. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Pflanzenextrakts c), vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) und 0,01 bis 1 ,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Extrakts aus Pisum sativum (cii)) enthält.
6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one plant extract c), preferably 0.01 to 1, 00 Gew. % of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) and 0.01 to 1, 00% by weight of at least one extract of Pisum sativum (cii)).
7. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, zusätzlich 0,01 bis 20,00 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,05 bis 15,00 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 0, 10 bis 10,00 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,25 bis 5,00 Gew.-% eines hautpflegenden Wirkstoffs d), ausgewählt aus Hyaluronsäure, einem Ester und/oder einem Salz der Hyaluronsäure, enthält. 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it, based on their total weight, additionally 0.01 to 20.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-% of a skin-care active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid.
8. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 10 bis 90 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 20 bis 85 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 30 bis 80 Gew.-%, noch weiter bevorzugt 40 bis 75 Gew.-% und insbesondere 50 bis 70 Gew.-% Wasser enthält. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it, based on their total weight, 10 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 85 wt .-%, more preferably 30 to 80 wt .-%, still more preferably 40 to 75 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 70 wt .-% water.
9. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht, 0,01 bis 5,00 Gew.-% mindestens eines Stabilisierungsmittels enthält, vorzugsweise eine Kombination von Stabilisierungsmitteln, enthaltend mindestens ein Polysaccharid, insbesondere Xanthan Gum, und mindestens ein (Meth)acrylsäurehomo- und/oder -copolymer. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one stabilizing agent, preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular Xanthan gum, and at least one (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer.
10. Nicht-therapeutische, kosmetische Verwendung einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9 zur 10. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 for
Aufhellung der Haut und/oder Lightening of the skin and / or
Reduzierung der Pigmentierung der Haut und/oder Reduction of pigmentation of the skin and / or
Egalisierung der Hautfarbe und/oder Leveling of the skin color and / or
Aufhellung von Altersflecken und/oder Sommersprossen und/oder Lightening of age spots and / or freckles and / or
Stimulierung der Collagen- und/oder Hyaluronsäuresynthese und/oder Glättung der Hautoberfläche und/oder Stimulation of collagen and / or hyaluronic acid synthesis and / or smoothing of the skin surface and / or
Glättung von Linien und/oder Fältchen und/oder Smoothing of lines and / or wrinkles and / or
Ausgleichung von Hautunregelmäßigkeiten und/oder Adjustment of skin irregularities and / or
Erzielung eines ebenmäßigeren Hautbildes.
Achieving a smoother skin appearance.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
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DE102015216606.6 | 2015-08-31 | ||
DE102015216606.6A DE102015216606A1 (en) | 2015-08-31 | 2015-08-31 | Cosmetic or dermatological composition for skin lightening |
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WO2017037001A1 true WO2017037001A1 (en) | 2017-03-09 |
Family
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PCT/EP2016/070282 WO2017037001A1 (en) | 2015-08-31 | 2016-08-29 | Cosmetic or dermatological composition for lightening skin |
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DE (1) | DE102015216606A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2017037001A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN110025502A (en) * | 2019-03-12 | 2019-07-19 | 山东省药学科学院 | A kind of hypertonic Hyaluronic Acid dimethyl-silicon alkanol complex solution |
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2015
- 2015-08-31 DE DE102015216606.6A patent/DE102015216606A1/en not_active Withdrawn
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