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WO2016030838A1 - Gel-gel comprenant au moins deux charges avec un effet de flou - Google Patents

Gel-gel comprenant au moins deux charges avec un effet de flou Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016030838A1
WO2016030838A1 PCT/IB2015/056470 IB2015056470W WO2016030838A1 WO 2016030838 A1 WO2016030838 A1 WO 2016030838A1 IB 2015056470 W IB2015056470 W IB 2015056470W WO 2016030838 A1 WO2016030838 A1 WO 2016030838A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
weight
gelling agent
hydrophilic
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Application number
PCT/IB2015/056470
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English (en)
Inventor
Chantal JOUY
Vera Lucie ESTEVES
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L'oreal
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Publication date
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Publication of WO2016030838A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016030838A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/624—Coated by macromolecular compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed towards proposing for the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the skin, a novel galenical form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application thereto, in particular to the skin.
  • keratin materials especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions are commonly used to hide and/or unify imperfections of the skin relief such as pores, wrinkles and/or scars.
  • many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous formulations have been developed to date.
  • compositions that are more particularly to reduce the visibility of the skin relief the formulator uses diffusing fillers therein, otherwise known as soft-focus fillers.
  • soft-focus fillers otherwise known as soft-focus fillers.
  • the corresponding compositions that are currently available do not prove to be entirely satisfactory, especially in terms of soft focus performance.
  • these mattifying cosmetic compositions prefferably have good stability over time and not to give any sensation of discomfort, dryness or coarseness either during application or after application.
  • the present invention is specifically directed towards meeting this need.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising:
  • hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group, preferably a crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer;
  • composition also comprising at least two soft-focus fillers, these two soft-focus fillers being a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin and a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic-treated silicone resin.
  • the term "soft-focus effect” denotes a blurred effect which hides the skin's microreliefs. This effect makes it possible especially, via an optical effect, to attenuate skin defects such as marks, wrinkles or fine lines.
  • soft-focus fillers may also be referred to as “fillers with a soft-focus effect' or “soft-focus effect fillers” .
  • the inventors have found that the formulation of fillers with a soft-focus effect in a gel-gel architecture as defined above makes it possible to improve the performances and to boost this soft-focus effect. Furthermore, the sensation of discomfort that may be generated by the presence of this type of filler is no longer experienced on application.
  • compositions according to the invention have improved stability and, furthermore, they make it possible to obtain products that are applied uniformly and without a "fluffing' effect.
  • Gel-gel compositions have already been proposed in the cosmetics field. Formulations of this type combine a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel/gel formulations are described in Almeida et al, Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13 :487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not at the present time make it possible to dissimulate and smooth out relief imperfections without thereby impairing the other expected cosmetic performance qualities.
  • the inventors have found that the choice of a particular hydrophilic gelling agent for texturing the aqueous phase of a composition of gel/gel type and the use of at least two particular soft-focus fillers in a composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the effects of these fillers, as illustrated in the examples, while at the same time improving the cosmetic properties (stability, absence of fluffing).
  • composition according to the invention shows very good properties for hiding the imperfections, in terms of relief and smoothness, of skin, while at the same time affording the user a sensation of freshness and lightness. Finally, the composition proves to be easy to apply to the surface of the targeted keratin material.
  • composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a pleasant homogeneous application of the product without the appearance of flakes at the various stages of use of the product, whether it be during application or while drying.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of mixing:
  • composition under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least two soft-focus fillers, namely a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin and a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic- treated silicone resin.
  • this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least two, preferably at least three or even more gelled phases.
  • the number of gelled aqueous phases and of gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may range for each of the two types of phase beyond two.
  • the mixing of the phases may be performed at room temperature.
  • the process of the invention may comprise, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.
  • the representative gelled phases of the same type of architecture are gelled with a different gelling agent.
  • Multi-phase formulas may thus be developed.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may be prepared without following a particular order of introduction of the various constituents.
  • a composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing at least a gelled aqueous phase according to the invention and at least the ingredients of the oily phase according to the invention.
  • a composition according to the invention may be prepared by mixing at least a gelled oily phase according to the invention and at least the ingredients of the aqueous phase according to the invention.
  • a composition according to the invention may be prepared according to a one-pof method, i.e. by mixing together all of the ingredients of the aqueous and oily phases.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process, especially a cosmetic process, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group, preferably with at least one crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition also comprising at least two soft-focus fillers, namely a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin and a powder of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with hydrophilic-treated
  • composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.
  • An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically about a micrometre (0.1 to 100 ⁇ ). Furthermore, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-type texture. This texture is especially reflected visually by a consistent and/or creamy appearance.
  • the term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture” means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized by the naked eye. More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable, consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, by microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention cannot be characterized either as having a "sense", i.e. an O/W or W/O sense, this means that a continuous phsase and a dispersed phase cannot be defined.
  • a "sense" i.e. an O/W or W/O sense
  • a composition according to the invention has a consistency of gel type.
  • the stability of the composition is long-lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a cosmetic composition according to the invention, does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • a composition according to the invention is distinguishable from an emulsion by mean of at least one of the following tests : test using a dyestuff, drop test and dilution test.
  • the two colours may be observed as being uniformly dispersed throughout the gel/gel-type composition.
  • This is different from an emulsion in which, if a dye, which is soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced, respectively, into the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, the colour of the dye present will only be observed in the outer phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).
  • This test consists in depositing, firstly, one drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the test composition, and, secondly, one drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same test composition, and in analysing the behaviour of the two drops of solvents.
  • the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains at the surface of the sample.
  • the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains at the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample.
  • a gel/gel-type composition bi-continuous system
  • the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a gel/gel-type composition from an emulsion is a dilution test.
  • a gel/gel-type composition the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behaviour in water and in oil is different from the behaviour of an emulsion. Consequently, the behaviour during dilution of a gel/gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) may be compared to that of an emulsion, obviously the behaviour during dilution of a gel/gel-type composition and the one of a emulsion will be different.
  • the dilution test consists in placing 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a beaker.
  • the dilution is performed with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification.
  • this is performed using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ.
  • the speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes.
  • observation of the resulting sample is performed using an optical microscope at a magnification of ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ (x 10x 10).
  • oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvent, in the same respect as one of the oils contained in the composition.
  • a gel/gel-type composition when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed.
  • a gel/gel- type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and when a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.
  • emulsions have a different behaviour.
  • an OAV emulsion When an OAV emulsion is diluted in an aqueous solvent, it gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.
  • This same OAV emulsion on dilution with oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of OAV emulsion suspended in the oil).
  • a W/O emulsion When diluted with an aqueous solvent, it has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of W/O emulsion suspended in the water).
  • This same W/O emulsion when diluted in oil, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.
  • the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present therein in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferentially, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20.
  • the ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.
  • aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of greater than 1, especially ranging from 60/40 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferentially from 60/40 to 70/30, and even more preferentially to favour an aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of 60/40 or 70/30.
  • a composition according to the invention is thus in the form of a creamy gel with a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.
  • composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.
  • composition according to the invention may have a maximum threshold stress of 10 000 Pa preferably of 5 000 Pa.
  • composition according to the invention may have a stiffness modulus G* preferably lower than 50 OOOPa, more preferably lower than 5 OOOPa.
  • the ratio of the hydrophilic phase viscosity / lipophilic phase viscosity preferably ranges from 0.2 and 3.
  • the gelled phases under consideration to form a composition according to the invention have, respectively, a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa.
  • the gelled phases under consideration to form a composition according to the invention may have a threshold stress lower than 10 000 Pa preferably lower than 5 000 Pa. Characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillating rheology measurements. Methodology is proposed in the illustrative chapter of the present text.
  • the corresponding measurements are taken at 25°C using a Haake RS600 imposed-stress rheometer equipped with a plate-plate measuring body (60 mm diameter) fitted with an anti-evaporation device (bell jar). For each measurement, the sample is placed delicately in position and the measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the jaws (2 mm). The test composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10 "2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • a composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity.
  • This elasticity may be characterized by a stiffness modulus G* which, under this minimum stress threshold, may be at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.
  • the value G* of a composition may be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a stress ramp from 10 "2 to 10 3 Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.
  • hydrophilic gelling agenf means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group.
  • the polymers comprising at least one monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which are used in the composition of the invention, are advantageously water-soluble or water- dispersible or swellable in water.
  • the polymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers that may be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form, or partially or totally neutralized form.
  • the polymers in accordance with the invention may be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • neutralized refers to polymers that are totally or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
  • the polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number- average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
  • These polymers according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked, and are preferably crosslinked.
  • the homopolymer of monomers bearing a sulfonic group may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.
  • the monomers bearing a sulfonic group of the homopolymer used in the composition of the invention are chosen especially from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Ci-C22)alkyl(meth)aciylamido(Ci- C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2- methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2- acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid, 2- acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acryl
  • APMS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • a homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group according to the invention is a crosslinked or non-crosslinked, preferably crosslinked, ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer.
  • a homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group according to the invention is a crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, preferably of INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltauramide as described in patent EP 0 815 928 Bl and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.
  • an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% and even from 0.5% to 5% by weight of homopolymer solids of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group relative to its total weight.
  • the present invention may also comprise at least one additional hydrophilic agent other than the homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group.
  • said additional hydrophilic agents are used in suitable contents and under suitable conditions so as not to be harmful to the compositions.
  • the additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be water-soluble or water- dispersible.
  • the additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
  • polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be natural or of natural origin.
  • the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.
  • These gelling agents may be particulate or non-p articulate.
  • the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.
  • starchy starches mention is made particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.
  • non-starchy starches mention is made particularly of polysaccharides produced by microorganisms such as xanthan, pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, succinoglycan, scleroglucan and gellan gum; polysaccharides isolated from algae such as galactans, furcellaran, alginate-based compounds, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arables, galactomannans, guar gums, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • microorganisms such as xanthan, pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, succinoglycan, scleroglucan and gellan gum
  • polysaccharides isolated from algae such as galactans, furcellaran, alginate-based compounds
  • the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.
  • the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.
  • the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.
  • They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers. They may especially be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
  • gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.
  • mixed silicate means all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminium.
  • alkali metals for example Na, Li, K
  • alkaline-earth metals for example Be, Mg, Ca
  • the fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.
  • an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% and even from 0.5% to 5% by weight of solids of additional hydrophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight thereof.
  • lipophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is lipophilic and is thus present in the oily phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding (hydrogen bonding polymers) and mixtures thereof.
  • the particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, and silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.
  • wa under consideration in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the waxes may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar or apolar, and hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, 6 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm ) 1 ⁇ 2
  • ⁇ 3 ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 6 h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
  • the apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
  • microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445 ® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW ® and Base Wax 30540 ® sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax ® No. 3 sold by the company Baerlocher.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made in particular of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders.
  • Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies, and Asensa ® SC 211 sold by the company Honeywell. b) Polar wax
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6a, is other than 0 (J/cm ) 1 ⁇ 2
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the polar waxes may in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.
  • the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based wax is intended to mean a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may also contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • ester wax is intended to mean a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • alcohol wax is intended to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • ester wax The following may especially be used as ester wax:
  • R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 4 -C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a linear or branched C 4 -C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not comprise one or more unsaturations and which is preferably linear and unsaturated;
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;
  • beeswax synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax or berry wax.
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include for example the C30-50 alcohol wax Performacol ® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.
  • silicone wax is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • silicone waxes of this type mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric).
  • the silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also (C2o-C6o)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 3 o-C4 5 )alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C 30 -45 alkyl dimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005 ® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • waxes particularly advantageous waxes that may be mentioned include polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.
  • oily phase may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C 10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • an alkylammonium salt such as a C 10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • They are preferably chosen from hectorites.
  • Hectorites modified with a C 10 to C22 ammonium chloride such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V ® (87% isododecane/ 10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elements, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
  • Lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15%) by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%> and more particularly from 1%> to 10%> by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles.
  • Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. Specifically, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as Silica Silylate according to the CTFA (8 th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil
  • the fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1%> and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume- mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM specific surface area per unit mass
  • D[0.5] volume- mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethyl siloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethyl siloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the INCI name Silica silylate.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention
  • an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer as lipophilic gelling agent.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be used as lipophilic gelling agent has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It affords a very soft feel and a matt effect after application, which is advantageous especially for application to the skin. It may also allow efficient filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer or "silicone elastomer” means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited ability to extend and to contract. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups such as
  • Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
  • substituted aryl groups such
  • the organopolysiloxanes (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising dimethylviny
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
  • compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
  • non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxy propylene) or any polyglyceryl units.
  • the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl units.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are described especially in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009.
  • the silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g. : cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
  • a linear silicone oil dimethicone
  • cyclic silicone oil e.g. : cyclopentasiloxane
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phen
  • dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning.
  • dimethicone crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL- 9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));
  • - C4-24 alkyl dimethicone/divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as NuLastic Silk MA from the company Alzo.
  • silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of the following references: - dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer” or “dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer”, with, preferably, a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) sold under the name EL-9240 ® by the company Dow Corning.
  • a crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer” or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspoly
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made especially of the powders sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793.
  • Said silicone elastomer particles are preferably spherical with a mean size ranging from 0.1 to 500 ⁇ , preferably from 3 to 200 ⁇ and better still from 10 to 20 ⁇ .
  • JIS-A hardness of less than or equal to 80 (especially ranging from 5 to 80) and preferably less than or equal to 65 (especially ranging from 5 to 65).
  • the JIS-A hardness is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.
  • silicone elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin of the invention are also described in applications JP-A 61-194009, EP-A 242219, EP-A 295886 and EP-A 765656.
  • Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-
  • organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of the reference KSP-100 from the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer preferably of INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer as oily gelling agent and/or soft-focus filler, preferably as oily gelling agent and soft-focus filler.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer type As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made especially of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from
  • Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl
  • Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer , more preferentially Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in a content of between 5% and 60% by weight of active material (dry), especially between 10% and 50% by weight and preferably between 15% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in a content of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active material (solids), especially between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • active material solids
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi- crystalline polymer.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.
  • the term "semi-crystalline polymer” is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting point (solid-liquid transition).
  • the crystallizable part is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.
  • the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone
  • this crystallizable block has a chemical nature different than that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
  • the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than
  • the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi- crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.
  • the melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C per minute (the melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting point.
  • the blocks of the polymers are amorphous.
  • crystallizable chain or block is intended to mean a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point.
  • a chain is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone.
  • a “block” is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
  • the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.
  • the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention containing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained via polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or via polycondensation.
  • polymers of the invention are polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:
  • the semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization, whose monomers are described in EP 0 951 897,
  • - acrylate/silicone copolymers such as copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts.
  • KP-561 CFA name: acrylates/dimethicone
  • KP-541 CFA name: acrylates/dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol
  • KP-545 CFA name: acrylates/dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane
  • the amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s), preferably chosen from semi-crystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains represents from 0.1% to 30%> by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25%) by weight, better still from 5% to 20% or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester.
  • the composition preferably comprises at least one preferably C 12 to C24 and in particular C 14 to C 18 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C 12 -C 18 and in particular C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate.
  • This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight of dextrin ester(s) relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of dextrin palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the dextrin palmitate may especially be the product sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® , Rheopearl KL ® or Rheopearl ® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of polyamide(s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight expressed as solids, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • polyamide means a compound containing at least 2 repeating amide units, preferably at least 3 repeating amide units and better still 10 repeating amide units.
  • hydrocarbon-based polyamide means a polyamide formed essentially of, indeed even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the term functionalized chain means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.
  • this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol, in particular less than 50 000 g/mol especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.
  • the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):
  • X represents a group -N(R 1 ) 2 or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22; alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 28 -C4 2 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5; and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):
  • X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22, alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 28 -C4 2 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (lb):
  • X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22 and preferably C 16 to C 22; alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 28 - C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
  • the silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): -x
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
  • Ci to C40 linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,
  • Cio aryl groups optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C 4 alkyl groups,
  • the groups X which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
  • Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, C 5 to Cio aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C 3 alkyl, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl groups, or
  • Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which
  • T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
  • R 8 represents a linear or branched Ci to C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer,
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and even better still from 6 to 200.
  • the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear or branched Ci to C40 alkyl group, preferably a group CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or an isopropyl group in formula (III).
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • the total content of polyamide(s) and/or silicone polyamide(s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of solids, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably between 2% and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the polymer containing hydrogen bonding is chosen from the ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymers.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.
  • HYDROPHILIC GELLING AGENT/LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENT SYSTEM As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer- 3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).
  • preferred lipophilic gelling agents mention may be made more particularly of a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil and/or a powder of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silsesquioxane resin.
  • preferred lipophilic gelling agents mention may be made more particularly of the mixtures of an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin with an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with hydrophilic silsesquioxane resin.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, as preferred lipophilic gelling agent, at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular of INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, such as the reference KSP-100 sold by the company Shin-Etsu and optionally a Dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • silsesquioxane resin in particular of INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, such as the reference KSP-100 sold by the company Shin-Etsu and optionally a Dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent systems that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of the copolymer system of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer crosspolymer with optionally a Dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise as hydrophilic gelling agent-lipophilic gelling agent systems, a crosslinked homopolymer system of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer optionally with a dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent-lipophilic gelling agent systems a crosslinked homopolymer system of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer optionally with a dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least two soft-focus fillers, these two soft-focus fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic silicone resin.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic silicone resin is generally referred to as being "hydrophilic-treated", i.e. treated to render it hydrophilic.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin it is subjected to a treatment directed towards combining therewith at least one cationic polymer and advantageously at least one nonionic or cationic surfactant.
  • the cationic polymer optionally with the surfactant(s) and the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may be combined via chemical bonds or via interactions, especially via Van der Waals bonds.
  • the hydrophilic-treated crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin is combined with at least one cationic polymer, preferably a quaternary ammonium polymer, especially a polymer of INCI name "Polyquaternium" and optionally with at least one C8-C 22 fatty acid ester of a polyol preferably polyoxyethylenated with 2 to 20 mol of OE such as C 8 -Ci 8 fatty acid esters of glycerol polyoxyethylenated with 3 to 15 mol of OE, preferably a polyoxyethylenated C 8 - Ci 8 glycol ester, more preferentially a C 8 -Ci 8 fatty acid ester of glycerol polyoxyethylenated with 5 to 10 mol of OE.
  • a quaternary ammonium polymer especially a polymer of INCI name "Polyquaternium”
  • the hydrophilic-treated crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin according to the invention is combined with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably chosen from Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7, preferentially Polyquaternium-7.
  • Polyquaternium-6 is a poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride).
  • Polyquaternium-7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin used as soft-focus filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer and is especially sold under the reference KSP-100 by the company Shin- Etsu.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic-treated silicone resin, used as soft-focus filler in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate and is especially sold under the reference MW- SRP-100 by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% and advantageously from 5% to 20% by weight of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with hydrophilic-treated silicone resin, in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methyl silanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • hydrophilic-treated silicone resin in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methyl silanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% and advantageously from 10% to 30% by weight of soft-focus filler(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
  • the hydrophilic crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, is present in the gelled aqueous phase.
  • the soft-focus filler the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, such as vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, also acts as lipophilic gelling agent.
  • silsesquioxane resin such as vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
  • the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin is preferably present in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This type of fillers is particularly advantageous in so far as they make it possible to soften imperfections. As indicated previously, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased by means of using them in a composition according to the invention.
  • the soft-focus effect is characterized by Haze and transparency (transmission TH) measurements.
  • the "Haze” corresponds to the percentage of light scattered relative to the total transmittance according to standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • hydrophilic gelling agent being a homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group, preferably a crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer;
  • composition also comprising at least two soft-focus fillers, these two soft-focus fillers being a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and a hydrophilic crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and is characterized in that the Haze and the transmission TH are, respectively, greater than or equal to 75 according to standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain additional soft-focus fillers and/or additional conventional fillers, it being understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to ensure not to choose fillers whose nature or amount in the composition would have an impact on the soft-focus effect afforded by the soft-focus fillers.
  • the present invention may also comprise at least one additional soft- focus filler other than the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silsesquioxane resin and the hydrophilic-treated crosslinked elastomeric
  • organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin coated with silicone resin.
  • these additional fillers are used in suitable contents and under suitable conditions so as not to be detrimental to the compositions.
  • the term "fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white, solid particles of any form, of natural or synthetic, mineral or organic nature, which are present in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • the soft-focus fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention are especially characterized by a refractive index of between 1.33 and 2.
  • They will generally comprise or consist of particles with a number-average size of less than or equal to 25 ⁇ , especially less than or equal to 20 ⁇ , in particular less than or equal to 15 ⁇ .
  • number-average size denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, known as D50, measured using a Malvern Mastersizer.
  • These particles may be of any form and may in particular be spherical or non- spherical.
  • Said soft-focus filler(s) are present totally or partly, and preferably solely, in the gelled aqueous phase or are present totally or partly, and preferably solely, in the gelled oily phase.
  • the soft-focus filler is chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, microwaxes of synthetic wax, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders,
  • polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica and silicate powders, especially of alumina, hydrophobic aerogel particles, talc with a number-average size of less than or equal to 3 microns, silica/Ti0 2 composites, barium sulfate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particles 1% to 2% surface-treated with a mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, talc/TiCValumina/silica composite powders, silicone elastomers and spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.
  • said soft-focus filler(s) are present totally or partly, and preferably solely, in the gelled aqueous phase.
  • said soft-focus filler(s) are present totally or partly, and preferably solely, in the gelled oily phase.
  • the composition comprises a soft-focus filler in the gelled aqueous phase and a second soft-focus filler in the oily phase, the latter also possibly acting as oily gelling agent.
  • the soft-focus filler when the soft-focus filler also acts as oily gelling agent, then it is present in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the soft-focus filler(s) are different from the oily gelling agent(s).
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 37% by weight, in particular from 0.75% to 35% by weight and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of filler(s) with a soft-focus effect, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-mi scible (miscibility with water of greater than 50%) by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-mi scible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80%) by weight and preferably from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 polyol.
  • polyoF should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • a polyol suitable for the invention can be a compound of saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type carrying, on the alkyl chain, at least two -OH functional groups, in particular at least three -OH functional groups and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups.
  • the polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those exhibiting in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • ⁇ /?' means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment variant, oils of plant origin are preferred.
  • non-volatile oiF means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • silicon oiF means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oiF means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oiF means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oiF means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa QO "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa QO "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes, such as C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C 8 -Ci 6 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes such as C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C 8 -Ci 6 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon- based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • fatty acid alcohol esters for instance cetostearyl oc
  • - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxy stearate/tetrai sostearate, - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethyl-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight and preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa.
  • the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress of lower than 10 000 Pa preferably lower than 5 000 Pa.
  • This threshold stress value reflects a gel-type texture of this oily phase.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble, but may also be liposoluble.
  • water-soluble dye stuff ' ' means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-mi scible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • liposoluble dye stuff ' ' means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 1 1, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 1 1, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • the colouring particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01%) to 15%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
  • They may especially be pigments, nacres and/or particles with metallic tints.
  • pigments ' should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition containing them.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition according to the invention when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% and preferentially at least 10% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • pigments having a structure may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL- 100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non- iridescent coloured particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (on mica base) sold by the company Engelhard are commercially available nacres that may be mentioned.
  • Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (on mica base) sold by the company Engelhard are commercially available nacres that may be mentioned.
  • Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck
  • Prestige nacres on mica base sold by the company Eckart
  • Sunshine nacres on synthetic mica base sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
  • the term "particles with a metallic tinf means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect the incident light, especially in a non-iridescent manner.
  • the particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
  • - particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial, organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
  • metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives denotes compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs as described previously may be totally or partially surface-treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, especially so that they have good wettability with oils.
  • these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.
  • the hydrophobic-treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
  • perfluoroalkyl phosphates polyhexafluoropropylene oxides
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to one or more fillers with a soft-focus effect, one or more fillers conventionally used in care and/or makeup compositions.
  • These associated fillers are colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • fillers of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, give the composition containing them softness and give the makeup result a matt effect and uniformity.
  • such associated fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, especially between 0.5% and 7% by weight and in particular between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition may also comprise at least solid particles such as pigments and/or associated fillers.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01%) to 25%o by weight, especially from 0.1%> to 25% by weight, in particular from 1%> to 20%) by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of solid particles relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a dispersant.
  • Such a dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof.
  • a dispersant in accordance with the invention is a surfactant.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of surfactant.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).
  • moisturizer also known as a humectant
  • the moisturizer is glycerol.
  • the moisturizer(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent. It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition.
  • composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
  • composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick.
  • a composition of the invention may be in the form of a product for the eyelashes, in particular a mascara.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • the measurements are taken using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25°C with a plate-plate rotor 0 60 mm and a 2 mm gap.
  • the harmonic-regime measurements make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products.
  • the technique consists in subjecting a material to a stress which varies sinusoidally over time and in measuring the response of the material to this stress.
  • the behaviour is linear viscoelastic behaviour (zone in which the strain is proportional to the stress)
  • the stress ( ⁇ ) and the strain ( ⁇ ) are two sinusoidal functions of time which are written in the following manner:
  • ⁇ 0 represents the maximum amplitude of the strain (-);
  • ⁇ represents the phase shift of the stress relative to the strain (rad).
  • the two functions have the same angular frequency, but they are shifted by an angle ⁇ .
  • the behaviour of the system may be apprehended:
  • a complex stiffness modulus representing the overall resistance of the material to the strain, whether it is of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by:
  • the parameter retained is the mean stiffness modulus G* recorded at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz.
  • Example 1 The gel-gel compositions of Example 1 (according to the invention) and of (comparative) Example 2 were prepared and potential fluffing was measured.
  • Gel-gel compositions are prepared as described below.
  • phase A The components of phase A are weighed out in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
  • phase B After homogenization of the gel, the components of phase B, which have been weighed out, are gradually added at room temperature with vigorous stirring.
  • the gel-gel composition forms.
  • the mixture is left to homogenize while stirring with a Rayneri blender for about 5 minutes at room temperature, the walls of the beaker being scraped with a spatula.
  • the mixture is stirred vigorously with a Rayneri blender for about 5 minutes, at room temperature.
  • the formulation is prepared from the weight proportions described below.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are identical except for the soft-focus filler of the gelled aqueous phase: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate in Example 1 and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) butylene glycol in Example 2.
  • the film formed with the composition of Example 2 breaks, producing fine particles, whereas the film formed by the composition of Example 1 remains intact.
  • Example 3 The gel-gel compositions of Example 3 (according to the invention) and of Example 4 (comparative) were prepared and the stability of these compositions was studied.
  • Gel-gel compositions are prepared as described for Examples 1 and 2 above.
  • the formulation is prepared from the weight proportions described below.
  • compositions of Examples 3 and 4 are identical, except for the hydrophilic gelling agent, to those of Examples 1 and 2.
  • composition 3 in accordance with the invention containing Hostacerin AMPS
  • comparative composition 4 containing Sepinov EMTIO
  • release of water is observed between the formulation and the edge of the formulation, which is not observed with composition 3 according to the invention.
  • composition 3 in accordance with the invention is in line with users' expectations regarding mattifying, cosmetic properties, and it does not lead to the formation of fluffing.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour le maquillage et/ou le soin de matières kératiniques, notamment la peau et/ou les lèvres, comprenant : au moins une phase aqueuse gélifiée avec au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile, ledit agent gélifiant hydrophile étant un homopolymère d'un monomère contenant un groupe sulfonique ; et au moins une phase huileuse gélifiée avec au moins un agent gélifiant lipophile ; lesdites phases formant un mélange macroscopiquement homogène ; ladite composition comprenant également au moins deux charges à effet de flou, ces deux charges à effet de flou étant une poudre d'organopolysiloxane élastomère réticulé revêtu d'une résine de silsesquioxane et une poudre d'organopolysiloxane élastomère réticulé revêtu d'une résine de silicone traitée hydrophile. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de préparation d'une composition selon l'invention ainsi que des procédés qui utilisent une composition selon l'invention.
PCT/IB2015/056470 2014-08-28 2015-08-26 Gel-gel comprenant au moins deux charges avec un effet de flou WO2016030838A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1458046A FR3025097B1 (fr) 2014-08-28 2014-08-28 Gel/gel comprenant au moins deux charges a effet flouteur
FR1458046 2014-08-28

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WO2016030838A1 true WO2016030838A1 (fr) 2016-03-03

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20190110130A (ko) * 2017-02-02 2019-09-27 신에쓰 가가꾸 고교 가부시끼가이샤 요철 보정 화장료
EP3578165A4 (fr) * 2017-02-02 2020-11-25 Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Produit cosmétique de correction d'irrégularités
US11160747B2 (en) 2017-02-02 2021-11-02 Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Unevenness correction cosmetic
KR102504564B1 (ko) 2017-02-02 2023-02-28 신에쓰 가가꾸 고교 가부시끼가이샤 요철 보정 화장료

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