WO2013190113A1

WO2013190113A1 - Cosmetic method for lightening the skin and/or lips

Info

Publication number: WO2013190113A1
Application number: PCT/EP2013/063045
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ludovic Thevenet
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-06-21
Filing date: 2013-06-21
Publication date: 2013-12-27
Also published as: BR112014026873A2; RU2677664C2; BR112014026873B8; JP6307499B2; JP2015520210A; KR20150024838A; FR2992173B1; KR102052230B1; CN104363880A; RU2014149770A; BR112014026873B1; FR2992173A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing especially the colour of the skin and/or lips, comprising the application, to the skin or lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the shadows around the eyes, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least non-interference scattering white particles, characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3 and 40 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a content greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 1 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and (ii)from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3.

Description

Cosmetic method for lightening the skin and/or lips

The invention relates to the field of the non-therapeutic cosmetic lightening (also named brightening) of the colour of the skin and/or lips, in particular the lightening of the complexion, with a natural and transparent make-up result, without introducing material.

It is common for people who have skin which is coloured or who exhibit pigmentary blemishes, rosacea, or shadows around the eyes to want to correct these cutaneous dyschromias and to use, for this purpose, cosmetic or dermatological compositions which make it possible to lighten and homogenize the complexion. To this end, it is known practice to use cosmetic compositions comprising whitening agents.

The substances most commonly used as whitening agent are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl glucoside), alone or in combination with other active agents.

However, it is necessary to use these agents for prolonged periods of time and in high amounts in order to observe a whitening effect on the skin. Furthermore, an immediate effect is not observed upon application of the compositions comprising them. It is known practice to use products comprising interference pigments which, although they can conceal skin imperfections in particular coloured imperfections, exhibit the major disadvantage of giving the skin a shiny and not very natural appearance. Furthermore, these pigments have the distinctive feature of giving a pearlescent appearance and of strongly colouring the products in which they are present.

It is also known practice to use cosmetic compositions capable of rendering the complexion uniform and optionally of conferring an immediate white appearance, these compositions being composed of powders dispersed in a binder. The powders are generally white pigments (titanium dioxide) or coloured pigments (iron oxides), depending on the effect desired, and/or fillers of different shapes (lamellar, spherical), depending on the effect desired.

One of the routes consists in depositing a white pigment, generally nanotitanium dioxide, forming the basis of the cosmetic products of "Instant whitening" type: these products are characterized by a AL > +1 (lightness).

Another, more recent, route consists in formulating titanium dioxide and iron oxides but with a highly desaturated shade, in contrast to conventional foundations. In this way, once the product has been applied, the combination of the colour of the product and that of the skin results in a slightly desaturated appearance of the colour, resulting in a perception of lightening of the skin. This is the route of the "BBCream - Balm Blemish Cream" products. These products are characterized by a ΔΟ< -1 (desaturation).

The complexion is thus made uniform essentially by virtue of the covering power provided by the pigments and the fillers. The disadvantage of such compositions is that the softening of the skin defects in particular coloured defects is provided by the covering power of the compositions. The skin thus made up loses its natural appearance due to the lack of transparency of these compositions. The need thus remains to have a cosmetic composition which results in a perceptible lightening of the colour which is immediate and without a material effect and which is intended for topical application to the skin and/or lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the shadows around the eyes or the outline of the eye.

Surprisingly, we have demonstrated that the use of an effective amount of white particles as defined according to the invention results, once applied, in a very great perception of lightening of the colour of the skin or lips while having a natural effect. The terms employed are lightening without a material effect or "transparent white" lightening.

The compositions of the invention are thus characterized by an increase in lightness (a AL > +1 ), a loss of saturation (ΔΟ< -1 ) and a high transparency which are not encountered, to the knowledge of the Applicant Company, in the existing cosmetic products.

In fact, these particles show a very specific balance between scattering of the light and opaqueness, making it possible to form formulations comprising high contents of conventional white particles without, however, resulting in an unnatural result on application.

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing especially the colour of the skin and/or lips, in particular the complexion, comprising the application, to the skin and/or lips, in particular to the skin of the face and/or the shadows around the eyes, of least one layer of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least non-interference scattering white particles having a volume-average size (D50) ranging from 0.3 μηη to 40 μηη and having a refractive index (Rl) of between 1 .7 and 2.2, in a content greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than,1 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and comprising from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3 (such as titanium dioxide or iron oxides).

By 'lightening (or brightening) and/or homogenizing the skin and/or lips', it means according to the invention an effect of the composition especially on the colour of the skin and/or the lips, in particular of the face, keeping a natural effect (transparency) of the skin and/or the the lips.

This effect of the composition on the colour and the coloured defects (ex: blotches or shadows around the eyes...) is distinct from an homogenizing effect by blurring, also named 'soft focus' effect which does not involved a colour modification. In fact, the composition of the invention is expecting to modify the colour properties of the face or locally, by lightening the colour of the complexion, by diminishing the colour of the blotches or the shadows around the eyes, and doesn't aim the 'blurring' effect. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention can be applied alone or before the application of a care product or of a make-up product.

The invention also relates to the use of an effective amount of such particles, in a cosmetic composition, as lightening and/or homogenizing agent especially for the colour of the skin and/or lips, especially the complexion, in particular with an immediate effect, by lightening the complexion for example or by diminishing the visibility of the colour of the blotches or the shadows around the eyes.

Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising the said non- interference scattering white particles and characterized by specific optical properties of transparency and of coverage of the made-up surface.

In particular, another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interference scattering white particles, characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3 and 40 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1 .7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3, exhibiting a transmission of at least 75% and a coverage efficiency (contrast ratio/transmission) of at least 0.1 according for example to the protocol of measures disclosed here after. According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of less than θμηι, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 6 μηη, in particular from 1 .5 to 5 μηη and preferably from 1.5 to 3 μηη, such as those sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics.

In a particular embodiment, the invention concerns a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interference scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride particles, characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3μηι and 6 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3,

the said composition exhibiting advantageously a transmission of at least 75% and a coverage efficiency (contrast ratio/transmission) of at least 0.1 according for example to the protocol of measures disclosed here after.

the said composition, after application on the skin and/or lips, giving an increase in lightness of the colour AL > +1 and a loss of saturation of the color ΔΟ< -1 , according for example to the protocol of measures disclosed here after. The compositions of the invention present advantageously a high level of transparency (transmission), conferring a natural effect as make-up result, without any mask effect.

The effect of the compositions of the invention on the skin colour may be measured by the following protocol:

100 mg of this composition are applied per half-face. Subsequently, the measurement is carried out by the method and with the Chromasphere device having a definition of 410 x 410 pixels described in Patent FR 2 829 344. The measurements of L^* (lightness) and C^* (saturation) in the CIELab76 system are carried out in a standardized manner at 20°C, before and after the application, using bare fingers, of 100 mg of composition to the half-face over a surface area of 4 cm x 4 cm comprising only the cheek. This operation is carried out on both cheeks.

The compositions according to the invention present an increase in lightness of the colour AL >+1 and a loss of saturation of the color ΔΟ< -1 and advantageously a high transparency, linked to a make-up effect lightening and/or homogeneizing of the colour without any mask effect (natural effect).

The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, of a serum, of direct, inverse and multiple emulsions, of hot-cast sticks, or of loose or compacted powders.

The compositions according to the invention make it possible to immediately confer, on the skin or lips to which they are applied, and in particular on the complexion, improved qualities in terms of uniformity, homogeneity, transparency and whiteness. These compositions can also exhibit concealing properties.

The compositions according to the invention can also make it possible to reduce the perception of coloured defects of the skin, namely in particular red blotches.

Non-interference scattering white particles

The term "scattering particles" is understood to mean particles exhibiting light scattering which does not show a favoured direction. Consequently, particles which exhibit an optical interference effect, known as "interference" particles, are very particularly excluded therefrom. Likewise, particles which show a shiny effect, such as metal particles or else particles with a metallic effect, such as bismuth oxychloride, are excluded therefrom.

The term "white" is understood to mean particles having the colour white and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, and the like), as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.

In particular, the white particles have a lightness value L^* close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

The scattering white particles according to the invention exhibit a mean refractive index of between 1 .7 and 2.2. This is because, if the particle has a refractive index of greater than 2.2, the opaqueness of the composition is too high and, if this index is less than 1 .7, the lightening effect is not sufficient.

The white particles according to the invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution capacity of the eye. Since the said capacity is around 40 μηη, particles exhibiting a volume-average size (D50) of less than 40 μηη, preferably of less than 25 μηη and better still of less than or equal to 6 μηη are thus considered. However, it is ensured that particles for which the D50 is greater than 0.3 μηη and preferentially 0.5 μηη are taken, so as not to have too great a loss of opaqueness, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect. Thus, the composition of the invention comprises at least white particles exhibiting a mean refractive index of between 1.7 and 2.2 and a volume size (D50) of less than 40 μηη, preferably of between 0.3 and 25 μηη and better still of between 0.3 and 6 μηη, indeed even of between 0.5 and 3 μηη. These particles can be made of one material or else be composites. For example, these particles can be boron nitride with a mean refractive index of 1 .74. They can also be chosen from composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate chosen from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particles, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles or their mixtures, the mean refractive index of which is between 1.7 and 2.2.

According to a first embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate. According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

The non-interference scattering white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume-average size of from 0.3 to 6 μηη.

The non-interference scattering white particles can represent from 1 % to 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and in particular from 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.

The mean refractive index is defined as being the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the content by weight in the particle.

Mention may be made, as examples of composite particles, for example, of platelets of mica (60%) covered with Ti0₂ (40%), with a mean refractive index of 1 .9 (0.6x1 .5+0.4x2.5); inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in a matrix of alumina (60%), with a mean refractive index of 1 .96 (0.6x1 .6+0.4x2.5).

The following is a table of the refractive indices used:

Table 1 : Example of the refractive index of various materials

Note: The refractive index of bismuth oxychloride is here given by way of indication, i course, the said bismuth oxychloride, in its conventional form, does not correspond to particle within the meaning of the invention, since it is a favoured-reflection particle. Mention may be made, by way of example of particles, of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum. The scattering white particles selected according to the invention result in very specific optical properties in terms of Contrast Ratio and Transparency (Transmission). This is because the particle, when prepared, for example, in a medium such as that of the composition illustrated in the examples, has to have a high transmission value in order to retain a natural appearance but must also have a sufficient "coverage" of the made-up surface in order to render the lightening effect perceptible.

The Transmission (TH) or Transparency is produced using the Haze-gard from Byk Gardner. This instrument characterizes the visual perception by means of objective measurement values.

Composition films of 25 μηη are applied to polyethylene (PE) films of 50 μηη. The film is subsequently evaluated after drying for one hour at ambient temperature. It is placed in the instrument and transparency (transmission) measurements are carried out.

For its part, the Contrast Ratio is evaluated by preparing a film of 50 μηη on a contrast chart exhibiting a white part and a black part. The protocol for spreading the formulations consists in producing 50 μηη spreads on a standard contrast chart. The measurements are carried out on the white background.

Colour measurements were carried out using a colourimeter. This is a Konica Minolta CR- 400 Chroma Meter. The colourimeter provides numerical data representing the absolute value and the difference in colour between a reference sample and a sample to be monitored. The values obtained on the bare film-free chart are used as reference.

The operating conditions are as follows:

❖ Standard CI E 1964 10° observer

❖ CIE illuminant type D65

❖ Measurement geometry d/0, variant of d/8. The instrument has an optical device which produces a scattered light, placed in a spherical cavity coated with a white layer which brings about multiple reflection of the light. An anti-glare trap eliminates the effects of glare of the surface of the sample. Three spectral reflectance measurements are carried out on each of the two backgrounds of the contrast chart by applying the measuring head, of the spectrocolourimeter, directly on the films of 50 μηη. The values obtained are: X, Y and Z.

The contrast ratio is calculated by producing the mathematical mean of the three values of the Ys on the black background, divided by the mean of the three Ys on the white background, multiplied by 100.

Mean (Yblack)

Contrast Ratio = * 1 00

Mean (Ywhite)

For example, if a W/O emulsion is considered, such as that exemplified in Example 1 of the present patent application, comprising 5% by weight of boron nitride, the following behaviour may be observed:

Similar results would be obtained, whatever the composition, preferably fluid, provided that the content of non-interference scattering particles according to the invention is between 4% and 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition. The non-interference scattering white particles of the invention are thus such that, at a content of 4% to 8% by weight in the total composition, they result in a preparation having a transmission of at least 75%, in particular at least 80%, and a coverage efficiency (CR/T) of greater than 0.1 , preferably of greater than 0.15 according to the protocol of measure disclosed above.

The latter parameter reflects the coverage efficiency with respect per unit of transmission.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of less than 6 μηη, such as the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP 1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume- average size D50 of 3 μηη.

The said non-interference white particles according to the invention are present in the composition in an effective amount for lightening and/or homogenizing the skin and/or the lips, in other words at a content of at least 1 % by weight of the total composition, in particular at least 1 .5% by weight and preferably at least 2% by weight.

Preferably, the content of the said particles will range from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, and in particular at a content of 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition. At a content of greater than 12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, the mask effect becomes too great and can be harmful to the effect desired, which combines whiteness and transparency.

Furthermore, it is possible to add colour, whether introduced by dyes, or else pigments, lakes, pearlescent agents, goniochromatic pigments, and the like.

However, in the case where these composite or non-composite particles exhibit a refractive index of greater than 2.3, such as the inorganic pigments for example, care needs to be taken not to exceed 2%. This is because, above this concentration, the lightening effect could be reduced or indeed even extinguished. Furthermore, the latter phenomenon is accompanied by a mask effect.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention advantageously does not comprise additional white particle(s) (i.e. particle(s) other than non-interference white particles in accordance with the invention) and in particular does not comprise titanium dioxide. The compositions used according to the invention can in particular constitute cosmetic compositions. They comprise, for such an application, a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood here to mean a medium compatible with the skin and/or lips.

FORMULATION FORMS

The compositions according to the invention are provided in all the formulation forms appropriate for application to the skin or lips: suspensions, dispersions, gels, serums, fluid or solid emulsions (W/O, O/W, multiple emulsions), aqueous, anhydrous or fatty sticks, solid, liquid or pasty anhydrous products, loose or compacted powders, or cast, moulded or extruded forms.

According to a specific embodiment, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion.

In particular, it will be a fluid emulsion.

Products in the "solid" form are understood to mean, according to the invention, a composition exhibiting a hardness such that it does not flow at ambient temperature under its own weight, in contrast to "fluid" compositions.

The compositions of the invention can be compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or lips.

In particular, it will be a base for caring for or making up the skin.

According to another embodiment, it will be a base for caring for or making up the lips.

The said composition can be applied alone or in combination with a care product or a makeup product; it is in this case applied to the surface of the skin and/or lips to be made up, before the application of the care product or make-up product.

Aqueous phase

A composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase, preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight and more particularly from 20% to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase generally comprises water and optionally at least one water- soluble solvent. The water can be a floral water, such as cornflour water, and/or a water extracted from plants or fruits and/or a thermal or non-thermal mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and/or a spring water, a seawater, a fossil water, a water from the melting of glaciers, or a water distilled, doubly distilled or sterilized by any other process.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature and which is miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent(s) suitable for the invention can be chosen from Ci_-8 and in particular Ci_-5monoalcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, ie f-butanol or n- butanol, polyols as described above, and their mixtures. Ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol, are thus very particularly suitable for the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one Ci-C₄ monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

A composition of the invention can additionally comprise at least one salt, for example sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride or calcium phosphate, alone or in the form of a buffer mixture.

The aqueous phase can also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound which is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, soluble coloured molecules or dyes, surfactants and their mixtures, or water-soluble sunscreens.

Liquid fatty phase

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention can comprise at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil.

The liquid fatty phase can represent from 1 % to 80% by weight of the composition, in particular from 2% to 50% by weight of the composition.

The oils can be volatile or non-volatile, having a nature which is hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated or not, or their mixtures.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratinous fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non- volatile oil exhibits an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm²/min.

In order to measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallizing dish with a diameter of 7 cm placed on a balance in a large chamber of approximately 0.3 m³ which is regulated in temperature, at a temperature of 25°C, and regulated in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst- Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the said oil or the said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The weight of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm²) and per unit of time (minute).

The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean any non-aqueous medium which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil exhibits an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min, limits included.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.

The term "fluorinated oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils can optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Volatile oils

The volatile oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C₈-Ci₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.

Use may also be made, as volatile oils, of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ^χ 10^"6 m²/s) and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.

Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone oils.

Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and octyldodecyl/phytosteryl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C₄ to C₃₆ and in particular from Ci₈ to C₃₆, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, maize oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkinseed oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and their mixtures, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810^®, 812^® and 818^® by Dynamit Nobel,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane,

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

- synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR₂, in which R-i represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the Ri and R₂ chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can be chosen in particular from fatty acid and alcohol esters, such as, for example: cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), and their mixtures, Ci₂-Ci₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, or hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate,

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5^® and Lusplan DD-DA7^®, which are sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and are described in application US 2004/175338,

- copolymers of dimer diol and of dimer diacid and their esters, such as dimer dilinoleyl diol/dimer dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G,

- copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer,

- fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

- higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures,

- dialkyl carbonates, it being possible for the two alkyl chains to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC^® by Cognis,

- oils of high molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10 000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10 000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g/mol and more particularly varying from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol. Mention may in particular be made, as oils of high molar mass which can be used in the present invention, of oils chosen from:

• lipophilic polymers,

· esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

• hydroxylated esters, • aromatic esters,

• esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids which are branched and comprise from 24 to 28 carbon atoms,

• silicone oils,

· oils of vegetable origin,

• and their mixtures,

- fluorinated oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-modified and/or silicone-modified, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in the document EP-A-847 752,

- silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, and

- their mixtures.

In a known way, the compositions of the invention can also comprise adjuvants which are normal in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, lipophilic structuring agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, surfactants, waxes, fillers, screening agents, bactericides, odour absorbers, colourants or salts.

Surfactants

A composition according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant.

A composition according to the invention can comprise one or more surfactant(s) chosen in particular from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture.

The surfactants are generally present in the composition in a content which can range from 3% to 20% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 15% by weight, indeed even strictly greater than 5% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 5.1 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a specific embodiment, in particular in the case where the composition according to the invention is a W/O emulsion, the composition can comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, the silicone surfactant(s) can be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to another specific embodiment, the non-silicone surfactant(s) can be present in a content ranging from 4% to 10% by weight, in particular from 5% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the surfactant is chosen so as to effectively stabilize the emulsions more particularly under consideration according to the invention, namely of O/W, W/O or 0/W/O type. This choice comes within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

Mention may be made, for the O/W emulsions, for example, of non-ionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as glyceryl esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and of sugars (glucose or alkylglucose); sucrose esters; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

Use may in particular be made, for the W/O emulsions, of hydrocarbon or silicone surfactants.

Mention may be made, for example, as hydrocarbon surfactants, of polyester polyols, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, sold under the reference Arlacel P 135 by Uniqema, or polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, sold under the reference Dehymuls PGPH by Cognis.

Mention may be made, for example, as silicone surfactants, of alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, and cetyl dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.

One or more coemulsifiers can also be added thereto. The coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sold under the name Lameform TGI by Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.

Waxes

A composition according to the invention can comprise at least one structuring agent for liquid fatty phases chosen from waxes.

In particular, a wax suitable for the invention can be chosen in particular from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

Mention may be made, as examples of waxes which can be used according to the invention, of:

- waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, or vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, or cork fibre or sugarcane waxes,

- mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

- synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes and the waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis,

- silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or alkyl methicones, such as C30-C45 alkyl methicone, sold under the trade name AMS C 30 by Dow Corning,

- hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25°C, such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow or hydrogenated coconut oil, and fatty esters which are solid at 25°C, such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate, sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen,

- and/or their mixtures.

Fillers

A composition in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to confer thereon additional properties of mattness, of coverage and/or of improved stability with regard to exudation and properties of non-migration after application.

The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colourless or white, solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of inorganic or organic nature, can confer body or rigidity on the composition and/or softness, and uniformity on the makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

Mention may be made, as examples of organic fillers, of powders formed of polyamide (Orgasol Nylon^® from Atochem), of polyethylene, of poly(methyl methacrylate), of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore^® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation) or polyurethane powders, in particular powders formed of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. It can in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name Plastic Powder D-400^® or Plastic Powder D-800^® from Toshiki, and their mixtures.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.01 % to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into lipid spherules.

As active agents, the composition can comprise active agents conventionally used in cosmetics and chosen, for example, from desquamating agents, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, whitening agents, propigmenting agents, antiglycation agents, NO- synthase inhibitors, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal

macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes, tightening agents, muscle-relaxing agents, agents for combating pollution or free radicals, agents which act on the microcirculation, agents which act on the energy metabolism of cells, or organic photoprotective agents or inorganic photoprotective agents which are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B regions. The whitening agents capable of being incorporated in the composition according to the present invention in order to complete the immediate effect conferred by the scattering particles comprise, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives, such as those described in Applications EP-895 779 and EP-524 109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives, such as those described in Applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in Application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, and also its salts and esters; calcium D-pantetheine sulfonate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; and extracts of plants, in particular of liquorice, of blackberry, of skullcap and of Bacopa monnieri, without this list being limiting.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the compositions used can additionally comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent and/or at least one inorganic

photoprotective agent which are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B regions (absorbers) and which are water-soluble or fat-soluble or else insoluble in the commonly used cosmetic solvents.

The photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a balm, a milk, a serum, a paste or a foam. They can optionally be applied to the skin or lips in the form of an aerosol. They can also be provided in the solid form, for example in the stick form. Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing the skin and/or the lips, in particular the face and/or the shadows around the eyes, comprising the topical application, to the skin or lips, of a composition according to the invention as defined above. This cosmetic method will more particularly be intended for immediate lightening and/or immediate homogenizing of the skin or lips.

The composition of the invention can be used as is or as a care and/or make-up base, applied to the skin before a care product or a make-up product.

The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or for the non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, comprising at least one stage of application, to the skin, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above.

Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of non-interference scattering white particles as defined above as agent for lightening and/or homogenizing the skin and/or the lips, in particular the complexion, and/or for softening skin defects.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature. The compounds are, as the case may be, mentioned as chemical names or as CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

The amounts are shown as percentage by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are not shown as amount of active material but as gross amount introduced into the composition.

EXAMPLES

The following compositions were prepared according to the conventional methods for formulating cosmetic compositions. Example 1 : Lightening base for the face: W/O emulsion

Content

Ingredients as %

Magnesium Sulfate 0.6

The results obtained are as follows:

On the surface made-up by the composition of Example 1 , a lightening effect of the colour without a mask effect is obtained (natural effect of the make-up result), in comparison with the non-made-up skin.

Example 2: Lightening outline of the eye: Water-in-oil emulsion with an additional colourant Ingredients Content as

%

Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 0.61

Boron Nitride (98% BN Minimum) Particle Size: 3 Microns 5

(PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics)

Smectite: Magnesium Silicate Modified in 5.22

Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and Ethanol (18/77/5)

Disodium Salt of Brilliant Yellow FCF (CI: 15985)

0.006

Preservatives 1

Nylon 12 Powder 6

Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 9

Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 10 cSt) 2.6

Mixture of Oxyethylenated 5.75

Polymethylcetyldimethylmethylsiloxane, Polyglyceryl

Isostearate (4 Mol) and Hexyl Laurate (Abil WE 09 from

Evonik Goldschmidt)

Microbiologically Clean Deionized Water q.s.

for 100

Isododecane 1 .7

Propylene Glycol 4.5

Acetylated Ethylene Glycol Stearate 0.46

Applied to the shadows around the eyes or the outline of the eye, an immediate lightening effect of the colour without a mask effect is observed (natural effect of the make-up result),, in comparison with the non-made-up skin.

Example 3: Make-up base applied under a colouring product (two actions)

Content

Ingredients as %

Magnesium Sulfate 0.6

Boron Nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5

Preservatives 1

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1 .7

Acetylated Glycol Stearate 0.5

Nylon-12 6

Hexyl Laurate 1 .7

Cyclopentasiloxane 13

Propylene Glycol 4.5

Dimethicone 2.6

Denatured Alcohol 8

q.s. for

Water 100 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 2.3

Isododecane 1 .7

Disteardimonium Hectorite 0.9

Applied under a make-up powder, the composition of the invention makes it possible to result in a final make-up result of lightening and homogenization of the complexion. Example 4: Stick

This formula is applied to the lips, resulting in a lightening of the colour of the lips. A second action can be applied in this case if this product is a non-opaque lip gloss.

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing especially the colour of the skin and/or lips, comprising the application, to the skin or lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the shadows around the eyes, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising

(i) at least non-interference scattering white particles, characterized by a volume- average size (D50) of between 0.3 and 40 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1.7 and 2.2, in a content greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 1 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3.

2. Cosmetic method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said cosmetic composition is applied alone or before the application of a care product or of a make-up product.

3. Cosmetic method according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cosmetic composition does not comprise additional white particles, in particular does not comprise titanium dioxide.

4. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cosmetic composition additionally comprises a surfactant.

5. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cosmetic composition additionally comprises a wax.

6. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said cosmetic composition is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.

7. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-interference scattering white particles are chosen from boron nitride, composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate chosen from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particles, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles or their mixtures, the mean refractive index of which is between 1 .7 and 2.2.

8. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-interference scattering white particles are boron nitride.

9. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-interference scattering white particles are boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of 0.3 to 6 μηη.

10. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said non-interference scattering white particles represent from 1 % to 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and in particular from 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.

11. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said composition additionally comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from desquamating agents, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, whitening agents, propigmenting agents, antiglycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes, tightening agents, muscle- relaxing agents, agents for combating pollution or free radicals, agents which act on the microcirculation, agents which act on the energy metabolism of cells, or organic photoprotective agents or inorganic photoprotective agents which are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B regions.

12. Cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

(i) at least non-interference scattering white particles, characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3 and 6 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1 .7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition,

(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably strictly greater than, 2.3, and characterized in that it exhibits advantageously a transmission of at least 75% and a coverage efficiency (contrast ratio/transmission) of at least 0.1 , according for example to the protocol disclosed in the description.

13. Cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least non-interference scattering white particles characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3μηι and 6 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1 .7 and 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition,

the said composition, after application on the skin and/or lips, giving an increase in lightness of the colour AL > +1 and a loss of saturation of the color ΔΟ< -1 , according for example to the protocol of measures disclosed in the description.

14. Composition according to Claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the non-interference scattering white particles are boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of between 0.3 and 6 μηη.

15. Composition according to either of Claims 1 1 to 13, characterized in that it is as

defined in any one of Claims 3 to 10.

16. Use of an effective amount of non-interference scattering white particles,

characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of between 0.3 and 40 μηη and a refractive index (Rl) of between 1 .7 and 2.2, in particular of boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume-average size of between 0.3 μηη and 6 μηη, in a cosmetic composition as agent for lightening and/or homogenizing the colour of the skin and/or lips, in particular the complexion, in particular with an immediate effect.