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WO2013190079A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules solides insolubles, une substance grasse non liquide et un tensioactif - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules solides insolubles, une substance grasse non liquide et un tensioactif Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013190079A1
WO2013190079A1 PCT/EP2013/062963 EP2013062963W WO2013190079A1 WO 2013190079 A1 WO2013190079 A1 WO 2013190079A1 EP 2013062963 W EP2013062963 W EP 2013062963W WO 2013190079 A1 WO2013190079 A1 WO 2013190079A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
particles
composition according
composition
chosen
surfactant
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PCT/EP2013/062963
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English (en)
Inventor
Valérie Favreau
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2013190079A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013190079A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising insoluble solid particles, at least one non-liquid fatty substance and at least one surfactant, and also to the use of such a composition for hair treatment, especially for treating keratin fibres and in particular for holding/shaping the hair.
  • Styling products with a waxy effect are predominantly in the form of more or less viscous pastes which are applied to the hair by hand. It is generally sought to obtain repositionable hairstyles with or without an aesthetic effect such as a matting or sheen effect.
  • hairstyling waxes are often tacky and greasy.
  • Document EP 2 394 631 describes a matting styling composition comprising waxes, surfactants and fillers, the composition not leaving any visible residues after drying. This type of composition leads, however, to a residual tacky effect on the hair, and it is not easy to remove with water. In addition, the fixing level is relatively poor.
  • the Applicant has discovered that by combining insoluble solid particles, a non- liquid fatty substance and a surfactant in a particular weight ratio, it is possible to obtain styling waxes that have improved working qualities and improved styling performance.
  • One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition containing at least one non-liquid fatty substance, at least one surfactant and water-insoluble solid particles other than fatty substances, the surfactant(s)/insoluble solid particles weight ratio being greater than or equal to 1 , the total weight content of surfactant(s) and of insoluble solid particles being less than or equal to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably a composition for styling and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular for styling keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular for holding and/or shaping keratin fibres, using the cosmetic composition as defined above.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined previously for hair treatment, especially for treating keratin fibres and in particular for holding/shaping the hair.
  • the composition obtained makes it possible to obtain a good level of hairstyle fixing and the hair is sparingly tacky and has a smooth feel, free of residues.
  • the composition is easy to rinse out with water.
  • composition according to the invention comprises water-insoluble solid particles.
  • water-insoluble compound refers to a compound whose solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1 % and better still less than 0.001 %.
  • the particle(s) have a number-average primary size ranging from 0.001 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 0.01 to 700 ⁇ and more preferentially from 0.5 to 200 m.
  • primary particle size means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposed points of an individual particle.
  • the size of the particles may be determined by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area by the BET method or using a laser particle sizer.
  • the particles of the invention are not coloured pigments.
  • the particles used in the cosmetic composition may have various shapes, for example sphere-shaped, glitter flakes, needles or platelets and preferably they are substantially spherical.
  • the particle(s) may be filled, hollow or porous.
  • the particles When the particles are hollow, they comprise at least one continuous envelope (a surface layer) and at least one cavity.
  • the envelope of the particles is preferably flexible to lend itself to mechanical deformation.
  • porous particles means particles having a structure comprising pores that are variable in size and number.
  • the porosity associated with the size of the particles may be characterized quantitatively by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method.
  • the porous particles have a specific surface area of greater than or equal to 1 m 2 /g, preferably greater than or equal to 2 m 2 /g and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 4 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area is determined according to the BET (Brunauer-Emmett- Teller) method as described in the "Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the specific surface area determined by the BET method corresponds to the total specific surface area, including the micropores, of the organic particles under consideration.
  • the composition comprises particles of one or more polymeric organic compounds and/or particles of one or more mineral compounds.
  • the particles of one or more polymeric organic compounds may consist of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers.
  • These polymers are preferably in the vitreous state, i.e. they have a glass transition temperature that is significantly higher than room temperature or the working temperature (for example human body temperature).
  • the particles of one or more organic compounds When the particles of one or more organic compounds are hollow, they comprise at least one continuous envelope (a surface layer) and at least one cavity.
  • the envelope of the particles is preferably flexible to lend itself to mechanical deformation. It generally comprises at least one polymer, a homopolymer or copolymer, formed from ethylenically unsaturated monomers.
  • the monomers used may in particular be acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, such as methyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile or styrene and derivatives thereof.
  • the particles of one or more organic compounds used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from polyamide powders, acrylic polymer powders, especially crosslinked sodium polyacrylate powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylic copolymer powders, especially powders of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, of polyacrylate/alkylacrylate, polystyrene powders, polyethylene powders, especially polyethylene/acrylic acid powders, and silicone resin microbeads.
  • organic particles according to the invention that may be mentioned more particularly include:
  • Polyamide (Nylon®) powders for example those sold under the names Orgasol® 4000 and Orgasol® 2002 UD NAT COS 204 by the company Atochem,
  • acrylic polymer powders especially of crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, for instance those sold under the name ASAP 2000 by the company Chemoal or Hysorb M7055 by the company BASF, polymethyl methacrylate powders, for instance those sold under the name Covabead® LH85 or Covabead® PMMA by the company Sensient or those sold under the name Micropearl® MHB, Micropearl® M 100 or Micropearl® M 310 sold by the company Matsumoto,
  • acrylic copolymer powders especially of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, for instance those sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber by the company Dow Corning, or those sold under the name Ganzpearl® GMP-0800 by the company AICA Kogyo, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, for instance those sold under the name Polypore® L200 or Polypore® E200 sold by the company Amcol, of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 by the company Dow Corning, or of polyacrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate, for instance those sold under the name Techpolymer® ACX 806C by the company Sekisui,
  • polystyrene powders such as those sold under the name Polysphere 3000 SP by the company Presperese,
  • polyethylene powders especially of polyethylene/acrylic acid sold under the name Flobeads® by the company Sumitomo, or polyethylene beads sold under the name Micropoly 220 L by the company Micro Powders,
  • the organic particles used in the composition in accordance with the invention are chosen from polyamide powders, crosslinked sodium polyacrylate powders, polyethylene powders and polymethyl methacrylate powders.
  • the organic particle(s) may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the organic particles may be made hydrophobic by coating or chemical grafting with products such as:
  • silicones for instance methicones or dimethicones, amino acids or N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate,
  • fluoro derivatives for instance perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides or polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups,
  • lecithin or isopropyl triisostearyl titanate isopropyl triisostearyl titanate
  • stearic acid such as stearic acid
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may especially denote a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the particles of one or more mineral compounds which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from metal particles, oxides, mineral salts, carbides, nitrides, sulfides and hydroxides.
  • metal particles means particles formed by metals chosen from alkaline-earth metals, transition metals, rare-earth metals and alloys of these metals.
  • the metals used are in particular boron, aluminium, copper, cadmium, selenium, silver, gold, indium, iron, platinum, nickel, molybdenum, silicon, titanium, tungsten, antimony, palladium, zinc and tin, and alloys of these metals.
  • gold, silver, platinum, cadmium and selenium, and alloys of these metals are most particularly preferred.
  • the particles of one or more mineral compounds may also be oxides. Mention may be made of oxides of the elements in columns 1 to 14 of the Periodic Table of the Elements. In particular, mention may be made especially of titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminium oxide and bismuth oxychloride. Among these compounds, zinc oxide is most particularly preferred.
  • the particles of one or more mineral compounds may be mineral salts. Mention may be made especially of barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium phosphate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate. Among these compounds, calcium carbonate is preferred.
  • the particles of one or more mineral compounds may be carbides, nitrides, borides, sulfides and hydroxides.
  • particles of one or more mineral compounds belonging to the species described above mention may also be made of clays, silicates, alumina, silica, kaolin and hydroxyapatite.
  • the silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas sold under the names Sillitin N85, Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin V88 by the company Hoffmann Mineral, or Sunsil 130 by the company Sunjin Chemical, MSS-500-3 H by the company Kobo, Sunsphere H 51 by the company AGC Si-Tech, and the hollow particles of ellipsoidal amorphous silica sold by Kobo under the reference Silica Shells.
  • They may be fumed silicas.
  • the fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • hydrophobic groups can be:
  • hydrophobic silicas mention may be made of silica aerogels.
  • Aerogels are ultralight porous materials which were first produced by Kristler in 1932.
  • drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials starting from gel, namely (i) drying by freeze drying, which consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and in then subliming the solvent, and (ii) drying by evaporation.
  • the materials thus obtained are referred to respectively as cryogels and xerogels.
  • the sol- gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a size, expressed as the mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 ⁇ , preferably ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles according to the invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, a size expressed as the mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ and/or an oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • SM specific surface area per unit of mass
  • the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ and better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • D[0.5] volume mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmet-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
  • This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as tapped density protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder and then the measuring cylinder is placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter. The measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) and then the final volume Vf of tapped powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder.
  • tapped density protocol 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder and then the measuring cylinder is placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter. The measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) and then the final volume Vf of tapped powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder.
  • the tapped density is determined by the ratio: mass (m)/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and m in g).
  • p is the tapped density expressed in g/cm 3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica (I NCI name: silica silylate) aerogel particles.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface by silylation is further described in document US 7 470 725.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups Use will in particular be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention
  • an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the mineral particles according to the invention may also be clay particles.
  • Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference. Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.
  • the clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.
  • the clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • the clays may be chosen from organophilic clays.
  • the organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
  • quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay
  • stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by
  • the organophilic clay is particularly chosen from modified hectorites such as the hectorite modified by C10-C12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the particles of one or more mineral compounds are chosen from calcium carbonate, silica and, in particular, silica aerogels.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 0.7% and even more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight of water-insoluble solid particles, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one non-liquid fatty substance.
  • non-liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance that is not liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • non-liquid preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s
  • non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, silicone resins or gums, and fatty ethers, which are not liquid and are preferably solid.
  • non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • saturated or unsaturated preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof (for example cetylstearyl alcohol).
  • non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols mention may be made especially of solid esters derived from C8-C26 fatty acids and from C8- C26 fatty alcohols.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate.
  • the wax(es) that may be used in a composition according to the invention may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, esterified waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes.
  • the wax(es) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen especially from waxes of mineral origin, for instance paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin or microcrystalline waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes whose melting point is greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by the company Nippon Seiro, waxes of plant origin, for instance carnauba wax, candelilla wax such as the product sold under the reference SP 75 G by the company Strahl & Pitsch, esparto grass wax, olive wax, rice wax such as the product sold under the reference NC 1720 by the company Cera Guatemala Noda, the sunflower seed wax sold by the company Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom, waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting
  • silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes.
  • the wax used in a composition in accordance with the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than 40°C, indeed even of greater than 45°C or also of greater than 55°C.
  • the wax(es) are chosen from waxes of animal origin such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina).
  • the silicone resins or gums may be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • the silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number- average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R represents an alkyl having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a Ci-C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • the non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • the non-liquid fatty substance is chosen from mineral, animal or plant waxes.
  • the non-liquid fatty substance is chosen from waxes of animal origin such as beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina).
  • the content of non-liquid fatty substance preferentially ranges from 0.01 % to 10%, preferably from 1 % to 9%, better still from 2.5% to 8% and even better still from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-liquid fatty substance, at least one surfactant and water-insoluble solid particles chosen from particles of one or more polymeric organic compounds and/or silica particles, the surfactant(s)/water-insoluble solid particles weight ratio being greater than or equal to 1 , the total weight content of surfactant(s) and of water-insoluble particles being less than or equal to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants that may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are compounds that are well known per se (see in particular in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178).
  • polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated a-diols, or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (Ci_2o)alkylphenols
  • the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 150 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, polyg
  • the alkyl polyglucosides may be selected, for example, from decyl glucoside ((C 9 /C11 alkyl) (1 ,4) polyglucoside), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1 ® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ® by the company Henkel; coco glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP ® by the company Henkel; caprylyl glucoside, such as the product
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oolefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates; monoalkyl esters of polyglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • the acyl lactylates preferably have an acyl group comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactant when in the salt form, it may be chosen from the alkali metal salts, such as the sodium salt or potassium salt, the ammonium salt, the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts, or the alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt or potassium salt
  • the ammonium salt such as the sodium salt or potassium salt
  • the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts
  • the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
  • the preferred anionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-
  • (C12-20)alkyl sulfates (C12-20)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, acyl glutamates or (C12- C20)alkyl ether carboxylates, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants capable of being used in the present invention can in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines comprising at least one anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
  • Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH- S0 3 Z',
  • Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
  • an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
  • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil or hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred. These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • ⁇ Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z";
  • ⁇ Rd and Re independently of each other, represent a Ci-C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • ⁇ Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra" represents a Ci 0 -C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil.
  • ⁇ n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C 8 - C 2 o)alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C 6 )alkyl betaines and (C 8 - C 2 o)alkylamphodiacetates, and also the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cocoylamidopropyl betaine, cocoyi betaine and cocoamphodiacetate.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • radicals R8 to R1 1 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals R8 to R1 1 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from C1 -C30 alkyl, C1 -C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1 -C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl and C1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl radicals, and X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1 -C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 - C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I) preference is firstly given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else, secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline for instance those of formula (II) below:
  • R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 -C4 alkyl radical or an alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C1 -C4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C4 alkyl radical
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1 -C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 -C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Varisoft W 575 PG N by the company Evonik Goldschmidt;
  • R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a);
  • R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1 -C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 - C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium 89), and Condicare CT sold by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium 75); - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (IV) below: R 24 — R 2. 3 X
  • R22 is chosen from C1 -C6 alkyl radicals and C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10
  • X " is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion
  • the alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1 -C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 1 - C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1 - C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 -C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (C1 - C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 -C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1 - C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1 -C4)alkyl- or (C1 -C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived
  • the anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV) in which:
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • - z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • - R25 is chosen from: O
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
  • acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold for example by the company Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF or by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, under the trade name Dehyquart A OR by the company Cognis or Quartamin 60 W25 by the company Kao or alternatively Genamin CTAC 25 by the company Clariant, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, such as the commercial product Dehyquart F 30 sold by the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium sold for example by the company Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF or by the company
  • the cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (IV).
  • the surfactant(s) of the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants. Even more preferentially, the surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) are present in a content preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 2% by weight and more preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total weight content of surfactant(s) and of insoluble solid particles namely the sum of the weight content of surfactant(s) and of the weight content of insoluble solid particles, is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • it may range from 0.5% to 3%, better still from 1 % to 3%, even better still from 1 % to 2.5% and more preferentially from 1 .5% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant(s)/insoluble particles weight ratio is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, it may range from 1 to 20, better still from 1 to 10 and even better still from 1 .5 to 5.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more thickeners, which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, associative or non- associative polymeric thickeners and non-polymeric thickeners.
  • polymeric thickeners examples include cellulose thickeners, for example hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, carrageenan, for example the carrageenan powder sold by the company Cargill under the reference Satiagum UTC 30, synthetic polymeric thickeners, resulting from radical polymerization reactions or polycondensation reactions such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, for example Carbomer, or nonionic, anionic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Allied Colloids, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Roh
  • the thickener(s), which are preferably polymeric, may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises water, preferably in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content preferentially ranges from 5% to 98%, preferably from 30% to 95%, better still from 50% to 90% and even better still from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more water-soluble liquid organic solvents preferably chosen from monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol; polyol ethers; and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol
  • polyol ethers preferably chosen from monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol
  • polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a propellant.
  • a propellant for example, mention may be made of liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, 1 ,1 - difluoroethane, or C 3- 5 alkanes, for instance propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane, or compressed gases such as air, nitrogen or carbon dioxide, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made preferentially of C 3-5 alkanes and in particular propane, n- butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises one or more propellant(s) in an amount ranging from 1 % to 60% by weight, better still from 2% to 50% by weight and more preferably still from 4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition for holding and/or shaping the hair according to the invention may also contain one or more additives other than the compounds of the invention, chosen from fixing polymers, non-silicone conditioning agents and in particular cationic polymers, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, dyes, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, basifying agents, antioxidants, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, hydroxy acids, penetrants, fragrances, preserving agents and fillers and solid particles other than aerogels, for instance coloured or colourless mineral and organic pigments.
  • additives other than the compounds of the invention chosen from fixing polymers, non-silicone conditioning agents and in particular cationic polymers, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, dyes, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, basifying agents, antioxidants
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be, inter alia, in the form of liquids that are thickened to a greater or lesser degree, gels, serums, creams, pastes, sprays or mousses.
  • composition of the invention may be applied using an aerosol device.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of gels, creams or pastes.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously be used for the cosmetic treatment of the hair.
  • the composition may be used for styling the hair, for example for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for the hair, for example a process for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to the invention as described above and then in carrying out optional rinsing after an optional leave-in time.
  • the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off.
  • the process of the invention may be performed at room temperature (25°C) or using heat at a temperature ranging from 40°C to 250°C using any heating device: hood, hairdryer, tongs.
  • Styling creams were prepared from the ingredients indicated, as a weight percentage of product in unmodified form, in the table below:
  • the cream of Example 1 has a less pasty texture than the comparative cream, with a less greasy feel on the hands.
  • the cream of Example 1 is easier to remove with water than the comparative cream.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une substance grasse non liquide, au moins un tensioactif et des particules solides insolubles dans l'eau, le rapport en poids dudit ou desdits tensioactifs auxdites particules solides insolubles dans l'eau étant supérieur ou égal à 1 et la teneur totale en poids dudit ou desdits tensioactifs et desdites particules solides insolubles dans l'eau étant inférieure ou égale à 3 % par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/EP2013/062963 2012-06-21 2013-06-21 Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules solides insolubles, une substance grasse non liquide et un tensioactif WO2013190079A1 (fr)

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WO2016030043A1 (fr) * 2014-08-25 2016-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent et procédé pour la mise en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques
US20180085293A1 (en) * 2016-09-23 2018-03-29 The Procter & Gamble Company Stable Foam Compositions and Methods of Using the Same to Provide Enhanced Sensory and Visual Benefits to Skin
US10463584B2 (en) * 2016-09-23 2019-11-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Stable foam compositions and methods of using the same to provide enhanced sensory and visual benefits to skin

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