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WO2013004787A1 - Composition de colorant utilisant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et de glycérol et procédés et dispositifs l'utilisant - Google Patents

Composition de colorant utilisant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et de glycérol et procédés et dispositifs l'utilisant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013004787A1
WO2013004787A1 PCT/EP2012/063158 EP2012063158W WO2013004787A1 WO 2013004787 A1 WO2013004787 A1 WO 2013004787A1 EP 2012063158 W EP2012063158 W EP 2012063158W WO 2013004787 A1 WO2013004787 A1 WO 2013004787A1
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composition
chosen
fatty
formula
linear
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PCT/EP2012/063158
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English (en)
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Delphine Charrier
Evelyne VACHERAND
Marie-Pascale Audousset
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2013004787A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013004787A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one nonionic compound such as a long-chain ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, glycerol and at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • the present invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition, and to multi-compartment devices that are suitable for using this composition.
  • One of the dyeing methods is "permanent" or oxidation dyeing, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers, the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
  • couplers or coloration modifiers the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
  • direct dyes are colored and coloring molecules that have affinity for fibers. Examples that may be mentioned include benzenic, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes.
  • Permanent dyeing processes thus consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
  • This oxidizing agent has several roles. The first is to bring about condensation of the oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), enabling appearance of the color. The second is to degrade partially the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers.
  • the oxidizing agent used is generally hydrogen peroxide.
  • compositions used in processes of this type must be able to be mixed easily, and the rheology of the resulting mixture must be such that it can be spread easily without running beyond the areas to be dyed once in place, and must do so throughout the entire treatment.
  • the mixtures must result in uniform colorations between the end of the hairs and the root (they are also said to be sparingly selective), and must be chromatic and powerful.
  • European patent application EP 1 106 167 describes oxidation dye compositions comprising, besides colorants, a nonionic compound derived from a long-chain ether of a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol. These compositions represented an improvement over the existing compositions, not only in terms of viscosity and viscosity stability during the leave-on time on the hair, but also in terms of dyeing results.
  • One of the objects of the present invention is to propose compositions for dyeing human keratin fibers such as the hair that do not have the drawbacks of the existing compositions.
  • composition for dyeing keratin fibers in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
  • R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci 0 -C 3 o hydrocarbon-based radical
  • R' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci 0 -C 3 o hydrocarbon-based radical, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl radical
  • n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive
  • Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (CrC 6 )alkylene group such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene;
  • a subject of the invention is also a dyeing process using the abovementioned composition.
  • the invention also relates to a multi-compartment device for using the composition of the invention, comprising a first compartment containing a formulation (A) free of chemical oxidizing agent and comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one nonionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of formula (i) and comprising a second compartment containing formulation (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; at least one of the two formulations (A) and (B) comprising glycerol.
  • a formulation (A) free of chemical oxidizing agent and comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one nonionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of formula (i) and comprising a second compartment containing formulation (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; at least one of the two formulations (A) and (B) comprising glycerol.
  • the invention also relates to a second multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing a formulation ( ⁇ ') free of chemical oxidizing agent and comprising at least one fatty substance; a second compartment containing a formulation ( ⁇ ') free of chemical oxidizing agent and comprising at least one oxidation base and at least one nonionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of formula (i); and at least a third compartment comprising a formulation (C) containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent; at least one of the three formulations ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C) comprising glycerol.
  • the use of the dye composition of the invention leads to powerful uniform colorations. These compositions distribute easily on the head of hair and are easily removed on rinsing.
  • the human keratin fibers treated via the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
  • direct emulsion means a microscopically heterogeneous and macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two mutually immiscible liquid substances of oil- in-water (O/W) type.
  • the emulsion is composed of an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
  • the term "emulsion” thus means true emulsions, which are to be distinguished from microemulsions, which are thermodynamically stable systems, unlike true emulsions.
  • the size of the droplets of the dispersed phase of the emulsions of the invention is preferably between 10 nm and 100 ⁇ and preferably between 200 nm and 50 ⁇ . This is the mean diameter D(3.2), which may be measured especially using a laser granulometer.
  • the direct emulsion may be prepared via standard emulsion preparation processes that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • oxidizing agent or "chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
  • the oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
  • the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and addition salts thereof.
  • para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis( -N-bis
  • para-phenylenediamine para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and addition salts thereof, are particularly preferred.
  • para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,
  • ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and addition salts thereof.
  • pyridine oxidation bases that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and addition salts thereof.
  • pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3
  • pyrimidine oxidation bases that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169 571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, for instance 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • pyrazole oxidation bases that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892 and DE 4 133 957, and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1 -(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- methyl-1 -phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl-
  • a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used as pyrazole compound, and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1 -( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or an addition salt thereof.
  • the oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibers.
  • couplers mention may be made especially of meta- phenylenediamines, meia-aminophenols, meia-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also addition salts thereof.
  • the addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are especially selected from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise one or more additional dyes chosen from direct dyes.
  • the latter dyes are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species. These direct dyes may be synthetic or of natural origin.
  • Suitable direct dyes include azo dyes; methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring.
  • the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, mono- and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and hemicyanins.
  • dyes of the carbonyl family examples that may be mentioned include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.
  • dyes chosen from acridone benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone,
  • dyes of the cyclic azine family mention may be made especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.
  • nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
  • cationic or non-cationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
  • Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanin direct dyes, for instance tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanine direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • Nonionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic ether of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of formula (i)
  • R' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci 0 -C 3 o hydrocarbon- based radical, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl radical, the hydroxyl preferably being ⁇ to the ether function,
  • - n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive
  • - Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (d-C 6 )alkylene group such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.
  • the radical Alk of formula (i) represents a group -CH 2 -CH 2 -.
  • the nonionic ether of formula (i) is such that R and R', independently of each other, denote a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C12-C20 and preferably Ci 4 -Ci 8 hydrocarbon-based radical; R' possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl radical and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, for example ranging from 20 to 100 and preferably from 40 to 80.
  • R and R' denote an alkyl radical.
  • the nonionic ether of formula (i) is such that: R denotes a Ci 6 -Ci 8 alkyl radical, which is preferably linear, and R' denotes a Cu alkyl radical, which is preferably linear, substituted with an OH group, and n is equal to
  • Such a compound is known, for example, in the CTFA dictionary under the name Ceteareth 60 myristyl glycol or Hydrogenated talloweth 60 myristyl glycol.
  • a Ceteareth 60 myristyl glycol is sold, for example, by the company Akzo under the trade name Elfacos GT 282 S.
  • the nonionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i) are present in a content ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.001 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • glycerol its content preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1 % and even more preferentially 0.1 %). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (COOH or COO " ).
  • the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated.
  • oil means a "fatty substance” that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • nonsilicone oil means an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
  • the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, nonsilicone oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, nonsilicone waxes and silicones.
  • fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes they are linear or branched, and possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
  • oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides
  • sunflower oil corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, ses
  • fluoro oils for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated. They are particularly of formula R-OH with R representing a linear or saturated C 8 -C 4 o alkyl group or a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 alkenyl group. More particularly, the fatty alcohols are unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), 2-octyldodecan-1 -ol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. More particularly, the alcohols are of C 20 -C 22 .
  • esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol which are advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters oxygen- bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • the nonsilicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • the silicones that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably 1 x10 "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
  • CFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a C C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 *10 "5 to 5*10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci 2 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
  • substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amine groups are, in particular, Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the fatty substance(s) do not comprise any C 2 -C 3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, nonsilicone oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, and silicones, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and polydecenes.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 25% by weight of fatty substance, more particularly at least 30% by weight, advantageously at least 35% by weight and even more preferentially at least 40% by weight of fatty substance, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention more particularly has a fatty substance content ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight and even more advantageously from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants other than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i) (also known as additional surfactants).
  • the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, and preferentially nonionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamat.es, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycar
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline- earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline- earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 6 -C 2 4)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 2 4)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (Ci 2 -C 2 o)alkyl sulfates (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably nonsilicone, which can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a Ci 0 -C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • ⁇ R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • ⁇ R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • ⁇ M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X " are absent;
  • ⁇ B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-X'
  • ⁇ X' represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -C(0)OZ ⁇ -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OZ ⁇ or a hydrogen atom;
  • ⁇ Y' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group - CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z';
  • ⁇ Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a ' represents a Ci 0 -C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a '-C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of Ci 7 and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20 )alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C 8 - C 2 o)alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • R 8 to Rii which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and
  • X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • the aliphatic groups of R 8 to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups of R 8 to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -C 6 )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C22)alkylamido(C2-C 6 )alkyl, (C12- C 2 2)alkylacetate, Ci-C 30 hydroxyalkyl, X " is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chlor
  • ⁇ Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
  • ⁇ Ri 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • ⁇ Ri4 represents a C C 4 alkyl group
  • ⁇ Ri 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C 4 alkyl group
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R-I2 and Ri 3 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri 4 denotes a methyl group, and Ri 5 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • ⁇ Ri 6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • Ri 7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 ) 3 -N + (R 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a ), X-;
  • Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ris>, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • ⁇ X " which may be identical or different, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
  • R22 is chosen from CrC 6 alkyl and CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from:
  • ⁇ R 2 5 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R 2 e which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • ⁇ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • ⁇ x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 2 3 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 2 g, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R26 and R 2 e which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anionic counterion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulf
  • R 2 2 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R 2 e which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13- Ci7 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyi sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyi sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyi
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents USA4 874 554 and USA4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include but are not limited to, in the "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178.
  • They are especially chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and (Ci-C 2 o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30, these additional nonionic surfactants being different than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i) of the invention.
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
  • the nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units; these compounds being different than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i) of the invention.
  • oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 2 4)alkylphenols;
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols;
  • the surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30.
  • the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and even more particularly between 2 and 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols are preferably used.
  • R 2 9 represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 4 o and preferably C 8 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • ⁇ m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol of formula (A7) or (A'7) may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 -Ci 0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C 10 -C 12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants other than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i) or from anionic surfactants. More particularly, the surfactant(s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants, other than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i).
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) are monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated, or monooxypropylenated or polyoxypropylenated nonionic surfactants, or a combination thereof, more particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated nonionic surfactants, other than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i).
  • the nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of sorbitol, oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and even more particularly between 2 and 30 mol of ethylene oxide, other than the nonionic ethers of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols of formula (i), and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from the abovementioned oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols.
  • the amount of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the basifying agents are:
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more basifying agents.
  • the basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic or hybrid.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pK b corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chains comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (II) below:
  • W is a CrC 6 divalent alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a CrC 6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR U ;
  • R x , R y , R z , R t and R u which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 6 alkyl or Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or CrC 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • amines of formula (II) examples include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • MEA diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
  • amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
  • amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (III) below, and also salts thereof: in whi s a group chosen from: ; -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2 ;
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (III) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type.
  • histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and baleine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.
  • the basifying agent(s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those of formula (III).
  • the basifying agent(s) are chosen from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, most particularly monoethanolamine (MEA).
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • the basifying agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, most particularly monoethanolamine (MEA).
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • the composition according to the invention has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention also comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.
  • This oxidizing agent is advantageously formed from hydrogen peroxide especially in aqueous solution (aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution), the concentration of which may range more particularly from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention does not contain any peroxygenated salts.
  • Solvent :
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents other than glycerol.
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 -
  • C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols and polyol ethers for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solvent(s), if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 % to
  • composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as organophilic silicas, fumed silicas, clays, especially organophilic clays, talc; organic thickeners with, in particular, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
  • the above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of composition.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one cationic polymer, more particularly chosen from substantive polymers such as alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium homopolymers (for instance Polyquaternium- 6, Merquat 100, which is a dialkyldiallylammonium halide (more particularly chloride) homopolymer sold by the company Nalco), and also copolymers of these monomers and of acrylamide (for example copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium halide (more particularly chloride) and of acrylamide, sold especially under the name Merquat 550, Polyquaternium-7).
  • substantive polymers such as alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium homopolymers (for instance Polyquaternium- 6, Merquat 100, which is a dialkyldiallylammonium halide (more particularly chloride) homopolymer sold by the company Nalco)
  • acrylamide for example copolymers of diallyldimethylam
  • R-i , R 2 , R3 and R 4j which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • the concentration of cationic polymers in the composition ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition may especially comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.
  • organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium- 18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.
  • the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature pyrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxhydric flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
  • hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil HS5®, Cab-O-Sil EH 5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O- Sil MS55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS- 720® by the company Cabot.
  • the fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified fumed silica.
  • the mineral thickener represents from 1 % to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more organic thickeners.
  • thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether), polymeric thickeners such as cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers whose INCI name is Carbomer, for instance the polymers sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 980, 981 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, acrylate/Cio-C 3 o-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1 , Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT
  • the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethycellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum), acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers, and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners with, in particular, hydroxyethylcellulose and crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • cellulose-based thickeners hydroxyethycellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose
  • guar gum and derivatives thereof hydroxypropyl guar
  • gums of microbial origin xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum
  • acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners with, in particular, hydroxyethylcellulose and crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • composition of the invention may be in various forms, for instance a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel.
  • a solution for instance a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel.
  • composition described previously is applied to wet or dry keratin fibers.
  • the temperature during the dyeing process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
  • the human keratin fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They may optionally be washed with a shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, and then dried or left to dry.
  • composition applied in the process according to the invention is generally prepared extemporaneously before the application, by mixing at least two formulations, preferably two or three compositions and even more preferentially two formulations.
  • a formulation (A) free of chemical oxidizing agent and comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one nonionic compound of formula (i) and a formulation (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent are mixed together.
  • At least one of the two formulations (A) and (B) comprises glycerol.
  • formulations (A) and (B) are aqueous.
  • aqueous formulation means a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the weight of this formulation.
  • an aqueous formulation comprises more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
  • formulation (A) comprises at least 50% by weight of fatty substances, and even more preferentially at least 50% by weight of fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C), relative to the weight of this formulation (A).
  • formulation (A) is a direct emulsion (oil-in-water: O/W) or an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil: W/O), and preferably a direct emulsion (O/W).
  • formulation (A) comprises at least one basifying agent.
  • formulations (A) and (B) are preferably mixed together in a weight ratio (A)/(B) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2.
  • the composition used in the process according to the invention i.e. the composition derived from mixing together the two compositions (A) and (B), preferentially has a fatty substance content of at least 25% by weight of fatty substance, relative to the weight of the composition derived from mixing together the two abovementioned formulations.
  • the composition used in the process according to the invention (thus in the presence of at least one chemical oxidizing agent) is derived from the mixing of three formulations.
  • the three formulations are aqueous or alternatively at least one of them is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous cosmetic formulation means a cosmetic formulation with a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1 % by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water present in the composition is more particularly "bound water”, such as water of crystallization in salts, or traces of water absorbed by the starting materials used in the preparation of the formulations according to the invention.
  • ⁇ ' aqueous formulations
  • C anhydrous formulation
  • ⁇ ' an anhydrous formulation
  • the anhydrous formulation ( ⁇ ') (free of chemical oxidizing agent) then preferably comprises at least one fatty substance, and more preferentially at least one fatty substance that is preferably liquid.
  • Formulation ( ⁇ ') (free of chemical oxidizing agent) then preferably comprises at least one oxidation base and at least one nonionic compound of formula (i).
  • Formulation (C) then preferably comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent. At least one of the three formulations ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C) comprises glycerol:
  • one or more basifying agents may be included in formulations ( ⁇ ') and/or ( ⁇ ') and preferably only in formulation ( ⁇ ').
  • surfactant(s) that may be present, they are preferably included in at least one of the formulations ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C).
  • the composition used in the process according to the invention i.e. the composition derived from the mixing of the three compositions ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C), preferentially has a fatty substance content of at least 25% by weight of fatty substance, relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixing of the three abovementioned formulations.
  • formulations ( ⁇ '), ( ⁇ ') and (C) are preferably mixed together in a weight ratio [(A')+(B')]/(C) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and more particularly from 0.5 to 2 and in a weight ratio ( ⁇ ')/( ⁇ ') ranging from 0.5 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5.
  • the invention relates to a multi-compartment device that is suitable for implementing the composition and the process according to the invention, and comprising a first compartment containing formulation (A) as described above and a second compartment containing formulation (B) as described above.
  • the invention also relates to a second multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition ( ⁇ ') as described above and a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition ( ⁇ ') as described above and at least a third compartment comprising composition (C) as described above.
  • compositions are prepared (in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials):
  • Composition 1
  • Composition 2 is a composition of Composition 2:
  • compositions are mixed together at the time of use in the following proportions:
  • the resulting mixture applies and is distributed easily onto dark auburn hair containing white hairs.
  • the hair is then washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
  • the hair coloration obtained is a uniform light auburn with good coverage of white hair.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition pour la coloration de fibres de kératine, comprenant : au moins un colorant d'oxydation ; au moins un éther non ionique d'un alcool gras polyoxyalkylénique de formule (i) R-(O-Alk)nOR (i) ; dans laquelle formule (i) : R désigne un radical à base d'un hydrocarbure en C10-C30 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, R' désigne un radical à base d'un hydrocarbure en C10-C30 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, qui peut être substitué par un radical hydroxyle, n représente un nombre entier compris entre (1) et (100) inclus et Alk représente un groupe alkylène en C1-C6 linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence linéaire, tel que le groupe éthylène ou propylène, de préférence éthylène ; du glycérol ; et au moins un agent oxydant chimique. La présente invention porte également sur un procédé utilisant cette composition et sur des dispositifs à plusieurs compartiments qui sont appropriés pour la mise en œuvre de l'invention.
PCT/EP2012/063158 2011-07-05 2012-07-05 Composition de colorant utilisant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et de glycérol et procédés et dispositifs l'utilisant WO2013004787A1 (fr)

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FR1156068A FR2977483B1 (fr) 2011-07-05 2011-07-05 Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre un ether a longue chaine d'un alcool gras alcoxyle et de la glycerine, procedes et dispositifs
FR1156068 2011-07-05
US201161523901P 2011-08-16 2011-08-16
US61/523,901 2011-08-16

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US8915973B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-23 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a rheology modifying polymer and a fatty substance in an alkaline cream system

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US8721742B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2014-05-13 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers comprising a fatty substance, a rheology modifying polymer, and direct dyes in a liquid emulsion system
US8721740B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2014-05-13 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a fatty substance and a rheology modifying polymer in a neutral to acidic system
US8721739B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2014-05-13 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a fatty substance and a rheology modifying polymer in an alkaline system
US8721741B2 (en) 2012-10-02 2014-05-13 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a fatty substance, a rheology modifying polymer, and direct dyes in a cream emulsion system

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GB1153196A (en) 1965-07-07 1969-05-29 Schwarzkopf Verwaltung G M B H Method of Dyeing Hair
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JPS63169571A (ja) 1987-01-06 1988-07-13 Nec Corp ト−ン検出装置
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EP0770375A1 (fr) 1995-10-21 1997-05-02 GOLDWELL GmbH Composition pour la teinture des cheveux
DE19543988A1 (de) 1995-11-25 1997-05-28 Wella Ag Oxidationshaarfärbemittel mit einem Gehalt an 3,4,5-Triaminopyrazolderivaten sowie neue 3,4,5-Triaminopyrazolderivate
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EP1106167A2 (fr) 1999-12-03 2001-06-13 L'oreal Composition de teinture pour les fibres keratiniques contenant un composè non-ionique
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8915973B1 (en) 2013-10-01 2014-12-23 L'oreal Agent for altering the color of keratin fibers containing a rheology modifying polymer and a fatty substance in an alkaline cream system

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