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WO2012137165A2 - Procédé de traitement capillaire - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement capillaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012137165A2
WO2012137165A2 PCT/IB2012/051692 IB2012051692W WO2012137165A2 WO 2012137165 A2 WO2012137165 A2 WO 2012137165A2 IB 2012051692 W IB2012051692 W IB 2012051692W WO 2012137165 A2 WO2012137165 A2 WO 2012137165A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
dyes
amino
combing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2012/051692
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012137165A3 (fr
Inventor
Stefania Nuzzo
Gabin Vic
Fabrice OSOLIN
Maryse Chaisy
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to US14/110,567 priority Critical patent/US20140096786A1/en
Priority to EP12720599.5A priority patent/EP2694009A2/fr
Priority to BR112013023142A priority patent/BR112013023142A2/pt
Publication of WO2012137165A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012137165A2/fr
Publication of WO2012137165A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012137165A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/02—Hand-actuated implements, e.g. hand-actuated spray heads
    • A45D19/026—Hand-actuated implements, e.g. hand-actuated spray heads having brush or comb applicators
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D24/00—Hair combs for care of the hair; Accessories therefor
    • A45D24/007—Hair combs for care of the hair; Accessories therefor power-driven
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B13/00—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers
    • A46B13/02—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers power-driven carriers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B13/00—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers
    • A46B13/02—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers power-driven carriers
    • A46B13/023—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers power-driven carriers with means for inducing vibration to the bristles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B13/00—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers
    • A46B13/02—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers power-driven carriers
    • A46B13/04—Brushes with driven brush bodies or carriers power-driven carriers with reservoir or other means for supplying substances
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B5/00—Brush bodies; Handles integral with brushware
    • A46B5/002—Brush bodies; Handles integral with brushware having articulations, joints or flexible portions
    • A46B5/0025—Brushes with elastically deformable heads that change shape during use
    • A46B5/0029—Head made of soft plastics, rubber or rubber inserts in plastics matrix
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B9/00—Arrangements of the bristles in the brush body
    • A46B9/02—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups
    • A46B9/023—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups arranged like in hair brushes, e.g. hair treatment, dyeing, streaking
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H7/00—Devices for suction-kneading massage; Devices for massaging the skin by rubbing or brushing not otherwise provided for
    • A61H7/002—Devices for suction-kneading massage; Devices for massaging the skin by rubbing or brushing not otherwise provided for by rubbing or brushing
    • A61H7/004—Devices for suction-kneading massage; Devices for massaging the skin by rubbing or brushing not otherwise provided for by rubbing or brushing power-driven, e.g. electrical
    • A61H7/005—Devices for suction-kneading massage; Devices for massaging the skin by rubbing or brushing not otherwise provided for by rubbing or brushing power-driven, e.g. electrical hand-held
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D2019/0033—Processes for treating the scalp
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00—Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10—For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/102—Brush specifically designed for massaging the skin or scalp
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H2201/00—Characteristics of apparatus not provided for in the preceding codes
    • A61H2201/12—Driving means
    • A61H2201/1207—Driving means with electric or magnetic drive
    • A61H2201/1215—Rotary drive
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H2201/00—Characteristics of apparatus not provided for in the preceding codes
    • A61H2201/14—Special force transmission means, i.e. between the driving means and the interface with the user
    • A61H2201/1463—Special speed variation means, i.e. speed reducer
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H2201/00—Characteristics of apparatus not provided for in the preceding codes
    • A61H2201/14—Special force transmission means, i.e. between the driving means and the interface with the user
    • A61H2201/1481—Special movement conversion means
    • A61H2201/149—Special movement conversion means rotation-linear or vice versa
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H2201/00—Characteristics of apparatus not provided for in the preceding codes
    • A61H2201/16—Physical interface with patient
    • A61H2201/1683—Surface of interface
    • A61H2201/1685—Surface of interface interchangeable
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
    • A61H2205/00—Devices for specific parts of the body
    • A61H2205/02—Head
    • A61H2205/021—Scalp
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to methods, devices and kits for treating hair.
  • European application EP 1 825 842 Al describes a massage device for massaging the scalp when washing the hair, for example, and envisages using it at the same time as shampoo is used.
  • the application US 2009/0182249 Al discloses a device for massaging the scalp, comprising a reservoir that can accommodate a liquid such as a shampoo or a lotion for stimulating hair growth.
  • a liquid such as a shampoo or a lotion for stimulating hair growth.
  • Various devices for massaging the scalp are also disclosed in the
  • composition comprising one or more active ingredients selected from the following:
  • Hair combing using a motor-driven device can be carried out after applying the composition of the invention to the hair, preferably in the presence of the composition on the hair.
  • Hair combing using a motor-driven device may be carried out before applying the composition of the invention to the hair, in particular after wetting the hair or after applying a composition not including any active ingredient of the invention.
  • combing may be carried out less than 60 minutes before applying the composition containing the active ingredient of the invention.
  • the combing device is characterized in that it includes a flexible diaphragm carrying spikes and a drive mechanism that enables the diaphragm to deform periodically in order to generate movement of the spikes.
  • the drive mechanism preferably includes a connecting rod that is driven in oscillating motion, which
  • connecting rod is connected at one end to a member that is driven in rotation by an electric motor and is
  • the frequency of oscillation of the diaphragm preferably lies in the range 0.5 Hz [Hertz] to 200 Hz, better preferably in the range 1 Hz to 20 Hz, the limits of the ranges being included in the ranges.
  • the envelope surface defined by the free ends of the spikes may be a surface that is concave towards the scalp, with a radius of curvature that varies as a function of the deformations of the diaphragm.
  • diaphragm i.e. the axis of the oscillating movement, may be substantially perpendicular to the scalp during combing, at least while combing the base of hair.
  • the spikes are made out of a
  • thermoplastic material thermoplastic material
  • composition comprising one or more active ingredients selected from the following:
  • the invention also provides a motor-driven combing device for carrying out one of the above methods.
  • the invention also provides a motor-driven combing device comprising: a flexible diaphragm carrying spikes adapted to come into contact with the hair; a drive mechanism enabling the diaphragm to deform periodically in order to generate movement of the spikes in contact with the hair; and a reservoir containing a composition for application, in the form of a pre-filled removable cartridge .
  • Active ingredients comprising: a flexible diaphragm carrying spikes adapted to come into contact with the hair; a drive mechanism enabling the diaphragm to deform periodically in order to generate movement of the spikes in contact with the hair; and a reservoir containing a composition for application, in the form of a pre-filled removable cartridge .
  • composition of the invention applied to the hair may contain at least one of the following active
  • the active ingredient or ingredients may be applied alone or in combination with other ingredients. When applied in combination, the active ingredient may
  • composition weight represent up to 50% by weight of the total composition weight, preferably up to 20% by weight of the total composition weight.
  • the active ingredient or ingredients may represent more than 0.001%, preferably more than 0.1 ⁇ 6 , more
  • hair dye as used in the present invention means synthetic direct dyes, natural dyes, and precursors of oxidation dyes.
  • These hair dyes may be non-ionic or ionic, in particular cationic or anionic.
  • the precursor or precursors of the oxidation dyes present in the composition of the present invention may be selected from oxidation bases and coupling agents in conventional use in oxidation dyeing.
  • the oxidation base or bases may be selected from para-phenylenediamines , bis-phenylalkylenediamines , para- aminophenols , bis-para-aminophenols , ortho-aminophenols , ortho-phenylenediamines , heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
  • para-phenylenediamines examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl para- phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl para- phenylenediamine, N, -dimethyl para-phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl para-phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dipropyl para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl 3-methyl aniline, N, -bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N- bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) amino 2-methyl aniline,
  • para-phenylenediamines are para- phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl para- phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro para- phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts.
  • bis-phenylalkylenediamines examples include N, N ' -bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) N, N ' -bis- ( 4 ' - aminophenyl) 1 , 3-diamino propanol, N,N'-bis- ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) N, N ' -bis- ( 4 ' -aminophenyl ) ethylenediamine, N, N ' -bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine,
  • para-aminophenol 4-amino 3-methyl phenol, 4-amino 3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino 2-methyl phenol, 4-amino 2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino 2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino
  • ortho-aminophenols examples include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino 5-methyl phenol, 2-amino
  • heterocyclic bases examples include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazolic derivatives.
  • pyridinic oxidation bases that may be used in the present invention are 3-amino pyrazolo- [ 1 , 5-a] - pyridine oxidation bases, or their addition salts, as described in patent application FR 2 801 308, for
  • pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 23 59 399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124;
  • EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2, 4, 5, 6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2, 4-dihydroxy 5, 6-diaminopyrimidine,
  • pyrazole 4,5-diamino 1-ethyl 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5- diamino 1-ethyl 3- ( 4 ' -methoxyphenyl ) pyrazole, 4,5- diamino 1-ethyl 3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3- hydroxymethyl 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino
  • composition of the present invention may be selected from meta-phenylenediamines , meta-aminophenols , meta- diphenols, naphthalenic coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, and their addition salts.
  • 3-aminophenol 2- methyl 5-aminophenol, 2-methyl 5- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) phenol, 2-chloro 6-methyl 3-aminophenol, 1 , 3-dihydroxy benzene, 1 , 3-dihydroxy 2-methyl benzene, 4-chloro 1,3- dihydroxy benzene, 2,4-diamino 1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) 1- methoxybenzene, 1 , 3-diaminobenzene, 1, 3-bis- (2, 4- diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-3, 4- methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy indo
  • benzomorpholine 3, 5-diamino-2, 6-dimethoxy pyridine, 1-N- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-3, 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6- bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) toluene, and their addition salts .
  • addition salts of oxidation bases and coupling agents that may be used in the context of the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides , sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonates, and in particular
  • phosphates, and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines .
  • natural dyes means any dye or dye
  • synthetic dyes means any dye that does not occur naturally.
  • Suitable synthetic direct dyes are azo direct dyes; methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero) aryl dyes; tri- (hetero)aryl methane dyes; used alone or as a mixture.
  • dyes of the carbonyl family examples include dyes selected from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone,
  • pyrimidinoanthrone flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine,
  • dyes of the azine family that may be mentioned are azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di) thiazine, and pyronine .
  • nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are nitrobenzene direct dyes or nitropyridine dyes.
  • porphyrin or phthalocyanin dyes it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally including one or more metals or metallic ions such as alkali and alkaline-earth metals, zinc, or silicon, for example.
  • direct dyes that may be mentioned are nitrated dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; methine dyes; azomethine dyes, more particularly with diazacarbocyanins and their isomers and tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines) ; quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone,
  • naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes azine direct dyes; xanthene dyes; triarylmethane dyes; indoamine dyes;
  • indigoid dyes and phthalocyanins and porphyrins; used alone or as a mixture.
  • the direct dyes are selected from nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo dyes; azomethines with diazacarbocyanins and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines); anthraquinone direct dyes; and triarylmethane direct dyes; used alone or as a mixture.
  • said direct dyes are selected from nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines with diazacarbocyanins and their isomers, and tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines) ; alone or as a mixture.
  • Non-limiting examples of nitrobenzene direct dyes that may be used in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned are the following compounds:
  • azo, azomethine, methine direct dyes that may be used in accordance with the invention and that may be mentioned are the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772, and
  • the synthetic direct dye or dyes may be selected from cationic monochromophoric direct dyes of the azo; methine; azomethine type with diazacarbocya and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanins ; and
  • anthraquinones used alone or as a mixture.
  • cationic direct dyes with the following formulae may in parti ned:
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical possibly substituted with a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or form a heterocycle, optionally oxygen-containing or nitrogen- containing, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, possibly substituted with one or more C 1 -C4 alkyl
  • R3 and R'3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, or a cyano, C 1 -C4 alkyl, C 1 -C4 alkoxy, or acetyloxy radical;
  • X - represents an anion, preferably selected from the chloride, methyl sulfate, and acetate;
  • A represents a group selected from the following struct
  • R 4 represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical, possibly substituted with a hydr
  • R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine, or fluorine;
  • R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle that optionally contains oxygen and/or is substituted with one or more C 1 -C4 alkyl groups;
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine, or fluorine;
  • D 2 which may be identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the group -CH;
  • X- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion preferably selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate ;
  • R' represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical
  • E may also designate a group with the following
  • R' represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical
  • X- representing a cosmetically acceptable anion or mixture of anions.
  • dyes that may be used in accordance with the invention that may also be mentioned from azo direct dyes include the following dyes, described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition:
  • the coumarin Disperse Yellow 82 may also be mentioned .
  • Examples of azine dyes that may be mentioned are the following compounds:
  • triarylmethane dyes that may be used in accordance with the invention and that may be mentioned are the following compounds:
  • indoamine dyes that may be used in accordance with the invention and that may be mentioned are the following compounds:
  • the direct cationic dyes are selected from direct dyes of the following types: azo; methine; azomethine with diazacarbocyanins and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanins (tetraazapentamethines) ;
  • anthraquinone used alone or as a mixture.
  • Particular natural dye or dyes that may be used to carry out the invention are preferably selected from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, anthragallol , protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin,
  • spinusolin such as carthamin, for example
  • chlorophylls such as carthamin, for example
  • chlorophyllins such as carthamin, for example
  • brazilin such as brazilin
  • brazilein such as carthamin, for example
  • carthame dyes such as carthamin, for example
  • flavonoids with morin, apigenidin, santal, for example
  • anthocyans of the apigeninidin type
  • carotenoids tannins, sorghum, and cochineal carmine, or mixtures thereof.
  • extracts or decoctions containing natural dyes in particular henna-based extracts .
  • the natural dye or dyes are selected from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin,
  • spinulosin apigenidin, chlorophyllin, sorghum, orceins, cochineal carmine, hematein, hematoxylin, braziline, and brazilein, and mixtures thereof.
  • These dyes may optionally be used in the presence of mordants (for example salts of zinc, manganese, aluminum, iron etc . ) .
  • mordants for example salts of zinc, manganese, aluminum, iron etc .
  • the composition may contain at least one reducing agent capable of reducing disulfide bonds in the hair.
  • a thiol reducing agent is used.
  • the thiol or thiols used as reducing agents in the reducing composition are selected from aminothiols such as cysteine and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine and its derivatives,
  • C1-C4 acylated derivatives such as N-acetyl cysteamine and N-propionyl cysteamine
  • non-amino- containing thiols such as thiolactic acid and its esters, such as glycerol monothiolactate, thioglycolic acid and its esters, such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol .
  • the thiol has at least one carboxylic acid function
  • the thiol has an amino group, it would be possible to use said thiol in the form of one or more of its salts such as aminothiol halides.
  • the thiol used in the context of the present invention may be L-cysteine hydrochloride.
  • composition used in accordance with the invention and that may also be mentioned are N-mercapto-alkylamides of sugars, such as N- (mercapto-2-ethyl) gluconamide,
  • pantheteine N- (mercaptoalkyl ) co-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in patent application EP-A-354 835 and N-mono- or N, -dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in patent application EP-A-368 763, aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in patent application EP-A-432 000 and alkylaminomercapto alkylamides such as those described in patent application EP-A-514 282.
  • non-aminated thiols used in the invention that may also be mentioned are 2- hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and 2-hydroxy-l- methylethyl thioglycolate (67/33) described in patent application FR-A-2 679 448, ⁇ -mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, and thiomalic acid.
  • thiol-containing reducing agent in particular thioglycolic acid or cysteine.
  • hydroxides that may be mentioned are sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, and guanidinium hydroxide.
  • Preferred hydroxides are sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and guanidinium hydroxide.
  • the conditioning agent may be selected from the group comprising non-silicone cationic polymers, non- silicone cationic surfactants, silicones, in particular organosiloxanes , linear or branched C 8 - C30 hydrocarbons, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohols, esters of C8- C30 fatty acids and C 1 - C30 monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C8- C30 fatty acids and C8- C30 fatty alcohols, esters of C 1 -C7 acids or dibasic acids and C 8 - C30 fatty alcohols, ceramides or ceramide analogs, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • cationic non-silicone polymer means a polymer having no silicon atoms in its structure, charged positively when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This polymer may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention.
  • the cationic polymer or polymers that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention are
  • MW molecular weight
  • the conditioning agent is a cationic polymer
  • it is preferably selected from those containing motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or
  • quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent bonded directly thereto.
  • cationic polymers that may be mentioned are polymers of the polyamine,
  • polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products. They are described, for example, in French patents numbers 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
  • R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • R 5 which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a C3 ⁇ 4 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R6, R7, Rs which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • X designates an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs deriving from co-monomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, acrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, and acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or
  • copolymers of family (1) include : • copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the trade name HERCOFLOC by the supplier HERCULES;
  • methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate sold under the trade name RETEN by the supplier HERCULES;
  • dimethylamine copolymers in particular as sold under the trade name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.
  • an acrylamide /methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride cross-linked polymer (20/80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion
  • trimethylammonium chloride for example in dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
  • These dispersions are provided under the names “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96" by the supplier CIBA;
  • polyaminoamides that are soluble in water prepared, in particular, by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis- unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound that is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis- unsaturated derivative; the cross-linking agent is used in proportions of 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide ; these polyaminoamide
  • adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363;
  • adipic acid /dimethylamino- hydroxypropyl /diethylene triamine polymers provided under the trade name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by the supplier Sandoz.
  • the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is in the range 0.8: 1 to 1.4; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorhydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorhydrin to the second amine group of the polyaminoamide in the range 0.5:1 to 1.8:1.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in American patents US 3 227 615 and US 2 961 347;
  • Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the trade name "Hercosett 57” by the supplier Hercules Inc. or under the trade name “PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the supplier Hercules for an adipic acid /epoxypropyl /diethylene-triamine copolymer.
  • alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising motifs with formulae (V) or (V) as the
  • R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • Ri o and Rn independently of each other, designate an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower ( C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or Ri o and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, designate heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl
  • Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate.
  • Ri o and Rn independently of each other, preferably designate an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more particularly 1 carbon atom;
  • polymers as defined above are the dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the trade name "Merquat 100" by the supplier NALCO (and its homologs with low mass average molecular weights) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the trade name "MERQUAT 550".
  • Ri 3 , Ri 4 , Ri 5 , and Ri 6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing
  • X- designates an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid
  • Ai, Ri 3 , and R15 may, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form a piperazine cycle
  • Bi may also designate a group (CH 2 ) n _ CO-D-OC- (CH 2 ) p - ;
  • n and p are integers in the range approximately 2 to 20;
  • D designates: a) a glycol residue with formula: -0-Z-0-, where Z designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group having one of the following formulae:
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • These polymers have a number average molecular mass that is generally in the range 1000 to 100,000.
  • polymers constituted by recurring motifs with the following formula may be used:
  • Ri g , Ri g , R 2 o and R 2 i which may be identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers in the range approximately 2 to 20 and, X- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid.
  • CFA computed tomography
  • R22, R23, R2 4 and R25 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl , ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or
  • p is equal to 0 or to an integer in the range 1 to 6, provided that R22, R23, R24, and R25 do not
  • v is equal to 0 or an integer in the range 1 to
  • X- designates an anion such as a halide
  • A designates a radical of a dihalide
  • cationic polysaccharides that may be mentioned are derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic
  • copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums are examples of copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • hydroxyethylcellulose compounds that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in the patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl
  • trimethylammonium salt or dimethyl-diallylammonium salt.
  • Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • guar gums modified by a salt (for example chloride) of 2 , 3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium may be used.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or
  • cationic protein hydrolysates polyalkyleneimines , in particular polyethyleneimines , polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium motifs, condensates of polyamines and epichlorhydrin, quaternary polyureylenes , and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are chemically modified polypeptides carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the chain end or grafted thereto. Their molecular mass may, for example, be from 1500 to 10,000, in particular from approximately 2000 to 5000.
  • Particular examples of these compounds that may be mentioned are as follows:
  • these polypeptides are of vegetable origin .
  • hydrolysates of jojoba, soya, or rice protein modified by steardimonium hydroxypropyl groups • hydrolysates of jojoba, soya, or rice protein modified by steardimonium hydroxypropyl groups.
  • Examples of these products that may be mentioned include the products provided by the supplier COGNIS under the trade name GLUADIN WQ, by the supplier CRODA under the trade names HYDROTRITICUM WQ PE or CROQUAT SOYA.
  • cationic polymers that could be used in the context of the present invention are cationic cyclopolymers , in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the trade names "MERQUAT 100", “MERQUAT 550” and “MERQUAT S” by the supplier NALCO, quaternary
  • Non-silicone cationic surfactants are non-silicone cationic surfactants.
  • the conditioning agent or agents that may be used in accordance with the invention may be selected from non-silicone cationic surfactants.
  • non-silicone cationic surfactant means a surfactant having no silicon atoms in its structure and positively charged when it is contained in the
  • This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention .
  • cationic surfactant or surfactants suitable for use as conditioning agents in the context of the present invention are preferably selected from primary,
  • polyoxyalkylenated or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
  • Examples of fatty amines that may be used in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned are stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine .
  • radicals Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of radicals Rs to Rn designating a radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or the halogens. Examples of aliphatic radicals are selected from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, ( C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide,
  • ( C12 - C22 ) alkyl ( C2-C6) amidoalkyl, ( C12 - C22 ) alkyl acetate, and C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl ;
  • X- is an anion selected from the group formed by halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulfonates .
  • Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium salts with formula (XII) are tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
  • palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristyl acetate) - ammonium chloride such that sold under the trade name CERAPHYL® 70 by the supplier VAN DYK;
  • R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives from tallow
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical
  • R14 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom
  • X- is an anion selected from the group formed by halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates , alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates .
  • R 12 and R 13 designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives from tallow, R i4 designates a methyl radical, R15 designates a hydrogen atom.
  • R 12 and R 13 designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives from tallow, R i4 designates a methyl radical, R15 designates a hydrogen atom.
  • An example of such a product is that sold under the trade name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the supplier REWO;
  • Ri6 designates an alkyl radical containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ri7 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (Ri6a) (Ri7a) (Ri8a)N- ( CH 2 ) 3 - group, Ri ea , Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri s , Ri g , R2o,and R 2 i , which may be identical or different, being selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group formed by halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and
  • methylsulfates examples include Finquat CT-P promoted by the supplier FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT promoted by the supplier FINETEX (Quaternium 75) ;
  • R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R2 3 is selected from:
  • radical • radicals R2 7 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C22 hydrocarbon radicals;
  • R2 5 is selected from:
  • radicals R2 9 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C6 hydrocarbon radicals
  • R2 4 , R26 / and R28 / which may be identical or
  • y is an integer from 1 to 10;
  • X- is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion
  • the R22 alkyl radicals may be linear or branched, more particularly linear.
  • R22 designates a methyl, ethyl
  • hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is equal to a value in the range 1 to 10.
  • R2 3 is a hydrocarbon radical R2 7 , it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R2 5 is a hydrocarbon radical R2 9 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R2 4 , R26, and R28 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated, or unsaturated C 11 -C2 1 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and alkenyl C 11 -C2 1
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, still more particularly equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulfate, more particularly methylsulfate .
  • a halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • an alkylsulfate more particularly methylsulfate .
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as the acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium possessing an ester function is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulfate, more particularly methylsulfate .
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid such as the acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium possessing an ester function.
  • anion X- is the
  • ammonium salts with formula (XV) are used in which :
  • R22 designates a methyl or ethyl radical
  • R23 is selected from:
  • R25 is selected from:
  • R24 , R26 , and R28 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or
  • hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
  • Examples that may be mentioned are compounds with formula (XV) such as salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of
  • acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly originate from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, they may be identical or
  • alkyldiethanolamine preferably methyl or ethyl
  • alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on C10-C30 fatty acids or on C10-C30 fatty acid mixtures of animal or vegetable origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters.
  • This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylation agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl) , a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl) , methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, or glycol, or glycerol chlorhydrin .
  • an alkylation agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl) , a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl) , methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-tol
  • composition of the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and trimester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts . It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Particularly preferred cationic surfactant ( s ) that may be used in the invention are selected from compounds with formula (XII) or with formula (XV) .
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition of the invention include cetyl trimethyl ammonium, behenyl trimethyl ammonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium,
  • Non-limiting examples of silicones that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention that may be mentioned are:
  • This type of silicone includes:
  • dimethylsiloxane /methylalkylsiloxane type such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109®” sold by the supplier UNION CARBIDE, which is a dimethylsiloxane /methyloctylsiloxane cyclocopolymer, may also be mentioned; (ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5> ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s [square meters per second] or less at 25°C.
  • polyalkylsiloxanes polyarylsiloxanes
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes may be in the form of oils, gums or resins.
  • polyalkylsiloxanes that may be mentioned are principally linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of more than 5> ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s, and preferably less than 2.6 m 2 /s, i.e.:
  • polyalkylsiloxanes provided by the supplier GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABILWAX
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes examples include polydimethylphenylsiloxanes , linear and/or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 10 ⁇ 5 to 5xl0 ⁇ 2 m 2 /s such as, for example:
  • ELECTRIC such as "SF 1250®”, “SF 1265®”, “SF 1154®”, “SF 1023®” .
  • the silicone gums of the present invention are polydiorganosiloxanes with a high number average
  • molecular mass in the range 200,000 to 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS) ,
  • PPMS polyphenylmethylsiloxanes
  • Mirasil DM 300 000 from Rhodia may be mentioned.
  • the following non-limiting examples may also be mentioned :
  • mixtures of two PDMS with different viscosities in particular a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the products “SF 1236®” and "CF 1241®” from the supplier GENERAL ELECTRIC.
  • the product “SF 1236®” is a mixture of a "SE 30®” gum as defined above with a viscosity of
  • the product "CF 1241®” is a mixture of a “SE 30®” (33%) gum and a PDMS (67%) with a viscosity of 10 "3 m 2 /s.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are cross-linked siloxane systems comprising the units: R 2 Si0 2 /2, RSi0 3 /2 and Si0 4 /2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • Particularly preferred examples of these products are those in which R
  • silicones as defined above, comprising in their general structure one or more organo-functional groups bonded directly to the siloxane chain or bound via a hydrocarbon radical.
  • perfluorinated groups such as trifluoroalkyls such as, for example, those provided by the supplier GENERAL ELECTRIC under the trade names "FF.150
  • FLUOROSILICONE FLUID® or by the supplier SHIN ETSU under the trade names "X-22-819®", “X-22-82®", “X-22-821®” and "X-22-822®”;
  • hydroxyacylamino groups such as, for example, those described in patent application EP 0 342 834 and in particular the silicone sold by the supplier DOW CORNING under the trade name "Q2-8413®";
  • thiol groups such as in the silicones "X 2-8360®” from the supplier DOW CORNING or "GP 72A®” and “GP 71®” from GENESEE;
  • non-quaternized amino groups such as in "GP 4 SILICONE FLUID®” from GENESEE, "GP 7100®” from GENESEE, “Q2 8220®” from DOW CORNING, "AFL 40®” from UNION CARBIDE or the silicone known as "Amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary;
  • alkoxy groups such as those in the silicone copolymer "F 755®” from SWS SILICONES and the products "ABILWAX 2428®”, “ABILWAX 2434®”, “ABILWAX 2440®” from the supplier GOLDSCHMIDT;
  • polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as
  • dimethicone copolyol provided by the supplier DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 or
  • polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • Examples of such polymers are copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization from a mixture of
  • graft silicone polymers are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer motifs are grafted, via a linker of the thiopropylene type, which mixed polymer motifs are of the
  • poly (meth) acrylic and alkyl poly (meth) acrylate types and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) , onto which polymer motifs of the poly isobutyl (meth) acrylate type are grafted via a thiopropylene type linker.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicones may also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions .
  • Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes of the invention are:
  • polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups such as oils with a viscosity in the range
  • oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 series, more particularly 70,047 V 500,000 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE, polydialkylsiloxanes with
  • terminal dimethylsilanol groups such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE; and
  • the viscosities of the silicones may in particular be determined using the standard ASTM D445-97
  • the conditioning agent of the composition of the invention is a hydrocarbon, it is a linear or
  • hydrocarbons that are liquid at ambient temperature that fall within this definition that can be mentioned are isododecane, isohexadecane and its isomers (such as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6, 6-heptamethylnonane) , isoeicosane, isotetracosane, isomers of said compounds, n-dodecane, n-nonane, n-undecane, n-tridecane, n- pentadecane, vaseline oil and mixtures of said
  • vaseline oil isododecane or one of its isomers is used in the invention.
  • the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 type. Examples of these that may be mentioned are 2-butyl octanol, lauric alcohol, oleic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the conditioning agent when it is a fatty ester, it may either be an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and C 1 -C30 monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and C8-C30 fatty alcohols, or an ester of a C 1 -C7 dibasic acid and a C8-C30 fatty alcohol.
  • esters examples include ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl
  • glycoceramides that can be used as a conditioning agent in the compositions of the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules that may have the following general formula (XIX) :
  • Ri designates a, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, said radical possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
  • R2 designates a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl ) m or sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer in the range 1 to 4 and m is an integer in the range 1 to 8; and
  • R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon radical
  • R3 may also designate a C15-C26 alpha- hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxyacid .
  • Ceramides that are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
  • a more particularly preferred ceramide or more particularly preferred ceramides of the invention are compounds for which Ri designates a saturated or
  • R2 designates a hydrogen atom
  • R 3 designates a saturated Ci 5 linear radical.
  • abrasive solid particles means particles with a hardness that is greater than or equal to that of hair.
  • the abrasive solid particles may have a hardness of 3 or more on the Mohs scale, or even 4 or more, for example 5 or more on the Mohs scale.
  • the solid particles may be selected from natural materials, in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, or from synthetic materials.
  • the abrasive solid may be selected from natural materials, in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, or from synthetic materials.
  • particles may, for example, be selected from the
  • inorganic and/or metallic particles such as boron nitride in the cubic form (Borazon®) , aluminosilicate, zircon, mixed aluminum oxides such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides such as aluminas or corundum, titanium oxide, mica titanium oxide, carbides, in particular silicon carbide (carborundum) , or other metallic oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot, steel, in particular pearlite; silicates such as glass, quartz or sand, calcium carbonate (for example bora bora sand or Rose de Brignoles marble) or magnesium carbonate, sodium chloride, pumice stone, amorphous silica, diamond, or ceramics ;
  • organic particles such as fruit kernels
  • apricot for example Scrubami® apricot
  • wood cellulose for example ground bamboo, coconut shell, for example Coconut exfoliator
  • polyamides in particular Nylon-6, sugars
  • polyethylenes polyethylenes
  • polypropylenes and
  • the solid particles may have a flattened, spherical, elongate, polyhedral or irregular shape.
  • the solid particles may, for example, originate from powdered pumice stone grains, powdered diamond, powdered fruit kernels, powdered coconut shells, microbeads, for example alumina microbeads, glass microbeads, polyamide
  • microbeads in particular Nylon-6, or from fibers, in particular polyamide fibers and hardwood cellulose fibers .
  • the moisturizing agents are preferably selected from urea, urea derivatives such as hydroxyethylurea, polyols such as glycerin, propyleneglycol or sorbitol,
  • composition of the invention is preferably, the composition of the invention
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one hair conditioning agent.
  • the cosmetic hair composition used in accordance with the invention may also contain other compounds that are normal in the hair cosmetics field, such as vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, organic or inorganic pigments, which may optionally be colored, pearlizing and opacifying agents, sequestrating agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, anti-oxidants ,
  • hydroxyacids fragrances, non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, short chain alkanols such as ethanol or isopropanol, acidifying agents and preservatives.
  • compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. They may be in the form of powders, liquids, gels, milks, creams or non-powdery solids. They may optionally be sprayed onto the hair using an aerosol or a pump bottle.
  • the method of the invention may be implemented in a plurality of variant embodiments.
  • the hair is combed using a motor-driven device after applying the composition of the invention to the hair, the composition possibly being present on the hair.
  • the hair is combed using a motor-driven device before applying the composition of the invention to the hair.
  • combing is carried out after wetting the hair or after applying a composition not comprising active ingredients of the invention.
  • exemplary embodiments may also include a subsequent step of applying of a composition with or without active ingredients of the invention.
  • the treatment may optionally be followed by rinsing.
  • the hair is dried or left to dry.
  • the method of the invention may be repeated several times. In general, the method of the invention is applied once or twice.
  • the invention is particularly suitable for curly or frizzy hair.
  • Figure 1 represents an example of a combing device of the invention
  • Figure 2 represents the device of Figure 1 in diagrammatic section
  • Figures 6A and 6B represent a head of hair
  • Figures 1 and 2 comprise a hand piece 10 that can receive a detachable diaphragm 20 carrying spikes 21.
  • the combing device may be offered to the user with a charging unit 30 for recharging a battery 18 contained in the hand piece 10.
  • the device is similar to those promoted under the trade name NEO or FLEX by
  • the hand piece comprises a geared electric motor 11 driving a drive member 12 in rotation on which is articulated a rod 13, connected to the diaphragm 20 by means, for example, of a hook 15 that is engaged in a portion in relief 22 provided on the inner face of the diaphragm 20.
  • Its periphery may be attached to a rim 16 of the casing of the hand piece 10.
  • a block 23 of an elastically, deformable, porous material forming a reservoir may be disposed on the inner face side of the diaphragm, but in a variant embodiment, this material is absent. Openings 25 may allow communication between the outside of the diaphragm 20, between the spikes 21, and the block 23.
  • the hand piece may include a switch 17 that can start the electric motor 11 that is powered via the battery 18.
  • the spikes 21 may have different heights, generally being shorter in the central region of the diaphragm and longer at its periphery, to provide the envelope surface touching the free ends of the spikes 21 with a generally concave shape .
  • the spikes 21 may be distributed into two groups, namely a first group 21a disposed in the central region with spikes that are oriented parallel to the axis X of movement of the portion in relief, and a second group 21b with spikes disposed about the first, the respective longitudinal axes of which extend
  • the spikes 21 may be disposed in concentric rows to the circumference of the diaphragm. Thus, the spikes 21 are not aligned and when the combing device is moved along a lock of hair in a direction perpendicular to or obliquely to its major axis Y, the hair that passes between the spikes 21 follows a non-rectilinear path.
  • the rod 13 is driven in an oscillating motion from top to bottom in Figure 2, which causes periodic deformation of the diaphragm 20, the periphery of the diaphragm 20 remaining fixed relative to the hand piece 10 while its central region oscillates along the axis X with a maximum amplitude.
  • the oscillations of the diaphragm 20 generate a rubbing action of the spikes 21 on the hair that, combined with the use of the
  • composition of the invention can achieve results that are superior using the composition alone or the combing device alone.
  • the user may apply the composition to the wetted hair and comb the hair, for example by passing it a few times from the base to the tips.
  • composition A comprising 1% active ingredient of a polydimethysiloxane, or B comprising 0.5% active ingredient of trimetylcetylammonium chloride to wetted hair, for example of the African or Caucasian type;
  • composition using the hands and combing by hand or a comb on a first side of the head, and using the NEO device from the supplier TWINBIRD on the other side of the head, for 2 minutes;
  • Steps a) and b) could also be repeated after step c) then terminated by steps c) and d) .
  • the scope of the invention also encompasses using a combing device comprising, as illustrated in Figure 5, a removable reservoir 40 containing the composition to be applied during use of the combing device.
  • the reservoir 40 is, for example, pre-filled with composition and is supplied to the operator in the form of a cartridge to be placed in the hand piece 10.
  • composition from the reservoir is distributed, for example, by means of a pump actuated by the same motor as that which deforms the diaphragm.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Pain & Pain Management (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Rehabilitation Therapy (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement capillaire. Ledit procédé consiste à appliquer une composition sur les cheveux, ladite composition contenant un ou plusieurs ingrédients actifs choisis parmi des agents revitalisants, des agents réducteurs, des bases organiques ou inorganiques, des colorants capillaires, des particules solides abrasives, et des agents hydratants; et à peigner les cheveux à l'aide d'un dispositif de peignage commandé par moteur (10) comportant des dents entraînées suivant un mouvement oscillant.
PCT/IB2012/051692 2011-04-08 2012-04-05 Procédé de traitement capillaire WO2012137165A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US14/110,567 US20140096786A1 (en) 2011-04-08 2012-04-05 Hair treatment method
EP12720599.5A EP2694009A2 (fr) 2011-04-08 2012-04-05 Procédé de traitement capillaire
BR112013023142A BR112013023142A2 (pt) 2011-04-08 2012-04-05 método de tratamento de cabelos

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1153108 2011-04-08
FR1153108A FR2973661A1 (fr) 2011-04-08 2011-04-08 Procede de traitement des cheveux.
US201161476785P 2011-04-19 2011-04-19
US61/476,785 2011-04-19

Publications (2)

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WO2012137165A2 true WO2012137165A2 (fr) 2012-10-11
WO2012137165A3 WO2012137165A3 (fr) 2012-11-29

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US (1) US20140096786A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2694009A2 (fr)
BR (1) BR112013023142A2 (fr)
FR (1) FR2973661A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012137165A2 (fr)

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US8828100B1 (en) 2013-10-14 2014-09-09 John C. Warner Formulation and processes for hair coloring
WO2015034105A3 (fr) * 2013-09-06 2015-08-20 Kao Corporation Produit cosmétique capillaire et procédé d'application d'une préparation capillaire

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US20170224081A1 (en) * 2016-02-09 2017-08-10 Paul Jackson Motorized hair dye misting applicator
US11311098B2 (en) * 2016-10-31 2022-04-26 L'Oreál Hair coloring appliance
KR102086484B1 (ko) * 2018-07-13 2020-03-09 주식회사 디티에스엠지 두피 자극봉이 장착된 헤어토닉 용기
US11730668B2 (en) 2020-06-29 2023-08-22 Therabody, Inc. Vibrating therapy system and device
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US8828100B1 (en) 2013-10-14 2014-09-09 John C. Warner Formulation and processes for hair coloring

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WO2012137165A3 (fr) 2012-11-29

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