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WO2012167900A2 - Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsions et ayant une libération de parfum améliorée - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsions et ayant une libération de parfum améliorée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012167900A2
WO2012167900A2 PCT/EP2012/002369 EP2012002369W WO2012167900A2 WO 2012167900 A2 WO2012167900 A2 WO 2012167900A2 EP 2012002369 W EP2012002369 W EP 2012002369W WO 2012167900 A2 WO2012167900 A2 WO 2012167900A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
stearate
polyglyceryl
oil
preparation
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/002369
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012167900A3 (fr
Inventor
Stefanie Von Thaden
Manuela KÖLHER
Rainer Kröpke
Jens Nielsen
Stefan Biel
Katrin Weinert
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE201110077017 external-priority patent/DE102011077017A1/de
Priority claimed from DE201110077035 external-priority patent/DE102011077035A1/de
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP12727302.7A priority Critical patent/EP2717968A2/fr
Publication of WO2012167900A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012167900A2/fr
Publication of WO2012167900A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012167900A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

  • the invention includes cosmetic or dermatological deodorant and / or
  • Antiperspirant preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate are described in detail below.
  • Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
  • hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • an oil-in-water emulsion O / W emulsion, eg milk.
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion W / O emulsion, eg butter is the inverse principle, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
  • Emulsions generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents for their formation and stabilization to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • Cosmetic antiperspirants or deodorants / deodorants are used to eliminate body odor or to reduce their formation.
  • Body odor arises when the per se odorless fresh sweat by microorganisms such. Staphylococci and Corynebacteria is decomposed.
  • Antiperspirants are antiperspirants that, in contrast to the deodorants that generally prevent microbial decomposition of already formed sweat, are intended to prevent the secretion of sweat at all.
  • Triclosan has an effect against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria as well as against fungi and yeasts, which results in a deodorizing, but no antiperspirant effect, as no influence on the sweat secretion can be deduced from the influence on the bacterial skin flora.
  • Sweat odor consists to a large extent of branched-chain fatty acids, which are released by bacterial enzymes from odorless sweat.
  • Classic deodorizing agents counteract this by reducing the growth of bacteria.
  • the substances used for this purpose also act nonselectively against useful skin germs and can lead to skin irritations in sensitive individuals.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate In the search for suitable emulsifiers that meet the desired requirements of cosmetics or dermatology, these emulsifiers seem to be excluded.
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
  • PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
  • JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
  • WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
  • DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
  • DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations as an emulsifier, without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • Known O / W emulsions and hydrodispersions are so-called stearate emulsions.
  • the emulsifier is present as stearic acid in the fatty phase and a
  • alkali metal stearate usually potassium or sodium stearate, formed by reaction of the base dissolved in the water phase with a portion of the stearic acid.
  • Derivatives of this kind are generally fatty acid emulsions in which, depending on the desired consistency, the C12-C22 fatty acid is used.
  • the non-saponified stearic acid (or fatty acid) is present in the fatty phase and therefore the emulsion is not greasy. After applying such emulsions, the excess fatty acid deposits in fine crystals on the skin, resulting in a slight matte effect.
  • the main emulsifier is the alkali fatty acid and thus a soap.
  • Phospholipids (especially lecithin) and phosphoric acid esters are also good emulsifiers and increase the wettability of lipid mixtures and thereby facilitate smooth rubbing on the skin.
  • This emulsifier class has a good suppleness of resulting products.
  • the disadvantage of these emulsifiers is also their high affinity for perfume ingredients, essentially to the citrus perfume oils which form the top note of the perfume.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate formulations have been found to provide enhanced perfume release, although it is a stearate emulsifier.
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising less than 6% by weight of polyglyceryl-10-stearate, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising one or more deodorants. and / or antiperspirant active ingredients, in particular perfume ingredients.
  • Phopshatemulsionen be reduced and still the same or improved
  • perfume oils may contain ingredients that can trigger allergies and the like.
  • the reduction of the concentration of perfume ingredients with the same scent impression is also beneficial
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products without compromising stability.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • Evidence of improved perfume release is demonstrated by perfume evaluation with two different perfume oils in a phosphate emulsion compared to a polyglyceryl-10 stearate emulsion.
  • the emulsion with 4 criteria (+ 6 ° C as a reference, north window (light test), room temperature and + 40 ° C) stored and assessed after 60 or 120 days by a trained perfumer. It is graded on a% scale, with the difference being rated to the + 6 ° C pattern, in terms of expression and aging of the perfume.
  • Perfume oil contained phosphate or polyglycerol O-stearate emulsions
  • Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits,
  • the perfume oil Touch Two 267007 from Symrise was used in the preparations tested.
  • This perfume consists mainly of Dipropylene Glycol CAS 25265-71-8, Methyl Dihydro Jasmonate CAS 24851 -98-7, Dihydro Myrcenol CAS 18479-58-8 and Iso E Super CAS 54464-57-2. It was found that the preparation with PolyglyceryM O-stearate always reproduced the fragrance impression at room temperature, light storage (north window) and at 40 ° C storage significantly better. At the end of the test, the difference was at least 20% better, ie, conversely, the perfume concentration can be reduced by 20% to give the same scent impression.
  • the individual values indicate the perfume impression in%; the lower the value, the less perfume is perceptible.
  • Emulsion preparations 1, 3, 4 and 5 consisting of
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
  • PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
  • Figure 3 shows these consistency studies.
  • the consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
  • Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
  • the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
  • a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • the test study is a quantitative suspension test which comes very close to in-vivo armpit conditions. Decisive for a good in-vivo performance is a fast dying of the test germs. After 20 minutes, the germs should be reduced to below 1.00E * 10 3 . Only then can sufficient in vivo efficacy be ensured.
  • the implementation of the standards is explained below.
  • C. jeikeium is inoculated from a cryotube onto an agar plate. After the first incubation, a second passage is applied to another agar plate. After 24h growth, a loop of the bacteria is removed and placed in a sterile baffled flask with 5g glass beads and 10ml AC medium (for Corynebacteria) and 3min. vortexed.
  • Test procedure The formulations to be investigated ( ⁇ ' , B ' and C, D) are initially charged and made up with medium (pH 7.0). Subsequently, the bacterial suspension (C. jeikeium) is added. The batches are incubated in a shaker.
  • Table 1 and Figure 1 show the kill rates of the tested formulations A ' and B ' .
  • Table 2 and Figure 2 show the cut-off kinetics of the tested formulations with methylgyoxal (e.g., Methylglyoxal Solution 40%, Sigma).
  • methylgyoxal e.g., Methylglyoxal Solution 40%, Sigma.
  • PG-10 stearate therefore results in improved deodorant / AT efficiency in cosmetic or dermatological deo / AT preparations, as exemplified by the antimicrobial activity of Salvia officinalis Extract / Equisetum Arvense Extract (available, for example, from US Pat. as (Complex Anti-Perspirant / Greentech) and methylglyoxal (available eg as Methylglyoxal Solution / Sigma)
  • an antimicrobial silver citrate complex as described in DE 202008014407, preferably be used as a cosmetically active ingredient in the preparations.
  • AT agents from the group of anticholinergics such as 4 - [(2-cyclopentyl-2-hydroxyphenylacetyl) oxy] -1, 1-dimethylpiperidinium salts, especially 4 - [(2-cyclopentyl-2-hydroxyphenylacetyl) oxy] 1, 1-dimethyl-piperidinium bromide can to a proportion of preferably 0.05 to 1, 0 wt.%, Preferably 0.1% -0.7%, in particular 0.3% -0.5 wt.%, Based be added to the total mass of the preparation.
  • vicinaie diols and similar drugs from the group of osmotically active substances can be added to the preparations of the invention as AT-active.
  • AT-active a group of osmotically active substances
  • further or other antiperspirant active ingredients and / or deodorants as an effective ingredient.
  • one or more compounds from the group of deodorants in particular perfumes, alcohols, antimicrobial and / or antiperspirant active ingredients are selected as cosmetically active Bestanteil.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, Ca and Ca.
  • stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate Isolan GPS
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34
  • polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
  • propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
  • propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester rapeseed lecithin
  • sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
  • Sorbitan monolaurate sorbate 20
  • sorbitan di-citrate sorbitan butucate
  • Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
  • Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
  • Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise no parabens, formalin-cleavers, organohalogens, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and tea tree oil, and advantageously also no benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol.
  • DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
  • formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
  • Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
  • perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
  • Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
  • Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
  • Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
  • the expert speaks when the use concentration of the co-emulsifier is less than 4% or
  • Total Iguator Concentration of all emulsifiers is below 10%.
  • the ratio of polyglyceryl-10 stearates to the chosen coemulsifier is from 5: 1 to 10: 1.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O can also stand for silicone oils.
  • the preparation is based on a O / W emulsion or
  • Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
  • Cold / hot process is called analog, man has a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
  • thermally labile active substances such as natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or individual perfume ingredients.
  • Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
  • Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 1 5 1, 8 Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate 1, 5 0.5 4 0.3 0.3
  • Titanium dioxide (Cl 77891) 6 3 3 8
  • Glyceryl Stearate SE 1 75 - 1, 75 -

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsions, contenant du polyglycéryl-10-stéarate et présentant un effet désodorisant ou antitranspirant d'efficacité améliorée et une libération d'un parfum.
PCT/EP2012/002369 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsions et ayant une libération de parfum améliorée WO2012167900A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP12727302.7A EP2717968A2 (fr) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques sous forme d'émulsions et ayant une libération de parfum améliorée

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110077017 DE102011077017A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionszubereitungen mit verbesserter Parfumfreisetzung
DE102011077035.6 2011-06-07
DE102011077017.8 2011-06-07
DE201110077035 DE102011077035A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Deodorant- und/oder Antitranspirantzubereitungen mit Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012167900A2 true WO2012167900A2 (fr) 2012-12-13
WO2012167900A3 WO2012167900A3 (fr) 2014-01-30

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CN110897918A (zh) * 2019-12-25 2020-03-24 广州欧正化妆品技术研究院有限公司 一种聚甘油类复配乳化剂及其制备方法
WO2021127768A1 (fr) * 2019-12-24 2021-07-01 Hart's Alimentos Naturais Ltda Composition anti-transpiration, utilisation cosmétique et son procédé d'application
WO2024256181A1 (fr) * 2023-06-13 2024-12-19 Beiersdorf Ag Préparation cosmétique contenant de la gomme xanthane, des terpinènes et du terpinéol

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