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WO2012027369A2 - Système et procédé de lissage ou de mise en forme des cheveux - Google Patents

Système et procédé de lissage ou de mise en forme des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012027369A2
WO2012027369A2 PCT/US2011/048810 US2011048810W WO2012027369A2 WO 2012027369 A2 WO2012027369 A2 WO 2012027369A2 US 2011048810 W US2011048810 W US 2011048810W WO 2012027369 A2 WO2012027369 A2 WO 2012027369A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
straightening
composition
acid
reducing
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PCT/US2011/048810
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English (en)
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WO2012027369A3 (fr
Inventor
Nancy Weinmaster
James Ziming Sun
Original Assignee
Diversapack Of California, Llc
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Publication of WO2012027369A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012027369A2/fr
Publication of WO2012027369A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012027369A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • Hair has many textures, from fine to coarse, from straight to curly, and from frizzy to non-frizzy. Hair is made of keratin which in turn is made of polypeptide chains bonded together by cysteine (or disulfide) bonds, hydrogen bonds and salt linkages. Curly hair is made of hair strands that have irregular surfaces that mesh and tangle with each other to make combing more difficult. Among individuals with very curly hair, it is especially popular to relax or straighten hair to increase hair manageability and ease of styling. Threads are composed of proteins of spiral structures, linked by sulfur bonds which are responsible for the hair structure. In order to straighten hair, these bonds must be broken.
  • hair straightening methods also known as relaxing methods
  • hair straightening methods entail chemical disruption of disulfide bonds by subjecting the hair to a very high pH, which typically involves application of a strong hydroxide base, combined with mechanical straightening of the hair (e.g., by combing).
  • the straightening process is generally terminated by rinsing and/or the application of a neutralizing composition .
  • lithium hydroxide can be formulated at a slightly lower pH and therefore is more comfortable and can be applied for longer periods of time.
  • the compromise is that lithium hydroxide is not nearly as efficient as sodium hydroxide in obtaining appropriate degrees of hair straightening.
  • Other methods for straightening hair, including the so-called Japanese and Brazilian methods are relatively new on the market.
  • the Japanese treatment employs lye and the same types of harsh chemicals that have been used in hair care for many decades.
  • the Brazilian hair treatment at least in some versions, uses high levels of formalin. Upon exposure to the heat generated from a blow dryer or hot iron, formalin is converted to gaseous formaldehyde, which is known to irritate the respiratory tract as well as cause other health issues.
  • Applicants' invention is directed to a uniquely blended hair straightening or shaping system and method that achieves high-level performance in terms of hair straightening or shaping effect while avoiding many of the disadvantages associated with current techniques.
  • the present invention employs a reducing composition that contains a consumable or food-grade reducing agent that unlike strong bases, may be formulated at a relatively mild pH and applied to hair without causing caustic side effects.
  • the present invention also entails use of a fixing composition. Both the reducing composition and the fixing composition contain two different kinds of small molecules, namely an amino acid and an aliphatic acid.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is directed to a method of straightening or shaping hair, comprising:
  • an aqueous reducing composition comprising an effective amount of a consumable reducing agent, a first amino acid, and a first C2-C10 carboxylic acid;
  • the fixing composition comprises a second amino acid, a second C2-C10 carboxylic acid, and optionally, a hair conditioning agent, wherein the first and second amino acids and the first and second C2-C10 carboxylic acids may be the same or different;
  • the hair is shampooed, at least once, prior to application of the reducing composition.
  • the hair may be rinsed, e.g., after application of the reducing composition, after application of the fixing composition, or after the application of the reducing composition and after the application of the fixing composition.
  • the hair may be at least partially (e.g., at least about 50% to about 90%) dried prior to straightening.
  • the hair may be completed dried, e.g., following hair straightening.
  • a conditioning composition e.g., creme, is applied to the hair following the straightening step.
  • step a) the hair may be partially dried
  • the hair may be rinsed followed by application of the fixing composition and another rinsing, followed by partial drying (e.g., via blow dryer) and then straightening.
  • the fixing composition is applied, followed by rinsing, and then partial drying (e.g., via blow dryer) and then straightening.
  • straightening is conducted by at least one round of hot iron treatment, typically about 4 to about 10 rounds.
  • a second aspect of the present invention is directed to a multi-component system for straightening or shaping hair, comprising a package which includes separate first and second containers (or a single container with two separate chambers) , wherein the first container comprises an aqueous reducing composition comprising an effective amount of a consumable reducing agent, a first amino acid, and a first C2-C10 carboxylic acid; and wherein the second container comprises an aqueous fixing composition, wherein the fixing composition comprises a second amino acid, a second C2-C10 carboxylic acid, and a hair conditioning agent, wherein the first and second amino acids and the first and second C2-C10 carboxylic acids may be the same or different.
  • a shampoo and/or a conditioning composition may be present in a third and/or fourth container.
  • the consumable reducing agent is selected from sodium and potassium salts of sulfite and metabisulfite; the first and second amino acids, which may be the same or different, are selected from glycine and alanine; the first and second C2-C10 carboxylic acids, which may be the same or different, are selected from glycolic acid, glycoxylic and lactic acids; and the hair conditioning agent includes a polyalkyleneimine .
  • compositions that are formalin-free
  • the reducing composition contains an amount of a consumable reducing agent effective to reduce (break) disulfide bonds in hair in order to allow the hair to be straightened or shaped.
  • a consumable reducing agent effective to reduce (break) disulfide bonds in hair in order to allow the hair to be straightened or shaped.
  • the term "consumable” is synonymous with "food-grade", which as used herein refers to an ingredient that is ingestible by, and non-toxic, to humans.
  • a consumable or food-grade ingredient, as used in the present invention does not necessarily impart palatability or nutrition to a food product.
  • Applicants' usage of the term "food-grade” is believed to be substantially consistent with the criteria described in Chapter 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations, promulgated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Plainly, formalin and formaldehyde are not "food grade” or consumable materials.
  • consumable reducing agents suitable for use in the reducing compositions include cosmetically acceptable salts (e.g., alkali metal (e.g., sodium and potassium) and ammonium salts), esters (e.g., lower alkyl) , amines (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and aminomethyl propanol (AMP) , of sulfite, disulfite, bisulfite, metabisulfite, hydrosulfite, hyposulfite and pyrosulfite. Both anhydrous and hydrated forms of these agents may be used.
  • cosmetically acceptable salts e.g., alkali metal (e.g., sodium and potassium) and ammonium salts
  • esters e.g., lower alkyl
  • amines e.g., triethanolamine (TEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and aminomethyl propanol (AMP)
  • amines e.g., triethanolamine (TEA
  • suitable consumable reducing agents thus include sodium metabisulfite, potassium metabisulfite , sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, ammonium metabisulfite, MEA sulfite, MEA metabisulfite, potassium bisulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium ydrosulfite, ammonium hydrosulfite, anhydrous sodium sulfite, diammonium sulfite, dipotassium disulfite, dipotassium pyrosulfite, AMP sulfite, AMP metabisulfite, TEA sulfite, TEA metabisulfite, sodium acid sulfite, sodium hyposulfite, sodium pyrosulfite, and sodium thiosulfate pent
  • the consumable reducing agent is present in the reducing composition in an amount effective to reduce (break) disulfide bonds in hair in order to allow the hair to be straightened or shaped.
  • the amount generally ranges from about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments about 5.0% to about 25.0%, and in other embodiments, about 10.0% to about 20.0%, and in yet other embodiments from about 10% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series or may be racemic.
  • Representative amino acids useful in the both the reducing and the conditioning compositions include naturally occurring amino acids such as glycine, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, histidine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, threonine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives ⁇ e.g., salts and hydrosalts such as hydrohalides ) thereof.
  • the amino acids may be added singly, in the case when two or more different amino acids are present, in mixtures or in the form of peptides, e.g., di- and tripeptides.
  • the amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate.
  • the amino acid is glycine, alanine, or a combination thereof.
  • the amino acid is present in each of the reducing and fixing compositions in an amount that is effective to aid in moisture retention and the relinking of peptide bonds in the hair under conditions of heat, and which generally ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, and in some embodiments about 0.5% to about 8.5%, and in yet other embodiments, about 1.0% to about 7.0%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Each of the reducing and fixing compositions also contains a C2-C10, substituted or unsubstituted carboxylic acid.
  • Suitable carboxylic acids include C2-C10, substituted or unsubstituted a-hydroxy acids and C2-C10, substituted or unsubstituted ⁇ -hydroxy acids.
  • the carboxylic acids are C2-C8, and in yet other embodiments C2-C6, C2-C5, or C2-C4 carboxylic acids, such as a-hydroxy or ⁇ -hydroxy carboxylic acids.
  • the acids do not contain amine groups.
  • substitutions include hydroxyl, keto, benzyl and substituted benzyl (e.g., with hydroxyl, alkoxyl (e.g., C1-C3 alkoxyl) ) , and carboxyl (e.g., in which cases the acid may be a di-carboxylic acid) .
  • the C2-C10 carboxylic acid is present in the reducing compositions in amounts that are effective to help the hair shafts retain moisture and relink peptide bonds under conditions of heat, and generally range from about 0.1 to about 10%, and in some embodiments from about 0.3% to about 8.5%, and in yet other embodiments about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight, based upon the total weight of the reducing composition .
  • the C2-C10 carboxylic acid is present in the fixing compositions in amounts that are effective to help the hair shafts retain moisture and relink peptide bonds under conditions of heat, and that generally range from about 0.1 to about 10%, and in some embodiments from about 0.3% to about 8.5%, and in yet other embodiments about 0.5% to about 7.0%, and in yet other embodiments from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, 2.0% or 2.5% by weight, based upon the total weight of the fixing composition.
  • the hair fixing compositions can contain one of more hair conditioning agents.
  • One type of such agent is a cationic conditioning ingredient, e.g., as represented by the following formula,
  • R 3 (i) is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or nonbranched alkyl with 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • (ii) has the structure R 7 CONH (CH 2 ) n wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or nonbranched alkyl with 7 to 21 carbon atoms and n has typical value of 1-4; or
  • (iii) has the structure R 8 COO(CH 2 ) n wherein R 8 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or nonbranched alkyl with 7 to 21 carbon atoms and n has typical value of 1-4;
  • R 4 (i) is H or a unsaturated or saturated, branched or nonbranched alkyl with 1 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • (ii) has the structure R7CONH (CH 2 ) n
  • (iii) has the structure R 8 COO(CH 2 )n, wherein R 7 , R 8 and n are same as above; wherein R
  • cationic conditioning agents embraced by the formula are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, steardimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonium chloride, dioleolethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, and dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate .
  • cationic hair conditioning agents that may be useful in the present invention include quaternium-8 ; quaternium-14 ; quaternium-15; quaternium-l ⁇ quaternium-22 ; quaternium-24 ; quaternium-26 ; quaternium-27 ; quaternium-30 ; quaternium-33 ; quaternium-37 ; quaternium-53 ; quaternium- 60 ; quaternium-61 ; quaternium-72 ; quaternium-7 ⁇ : quaternium-80; quaternium-81 ; quaternium-82 ; quaternium-83; quaternium-84 ; and quaternium-91.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are another type of hai conditioning agent that may be useful in the hair fixin compositions.
  • Representative quaternary ammonium compounds, o salts have the following formula:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 , and R4 are each independently an aliphatic group of 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic, alkyl, hydroxyalkyl , aryl, or alkaryl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms; with the proviso that there is at least one alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • at least one of R x , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are methyl while the remaining substituents are C 12 - 22 aliphatic radicals.
  • X is an anion selected from halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and methyl sulfate, tosylate, and hydroxide radicals.
  • the aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon atoms, ether linkages as well as amido groups.
  • Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds may be mono-long chain alkyl, di-long chain alkyl, tri-long chain alkyl, and the like.
  • Examples of such quaternary ammonium salts embraced by the formula include behenalkonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzyl triethyl ammonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium tosylate, cetylpyridinium chloride, dibehenyl/diarachidyl dimonium chloride, dibehenyldimonium chloride, dibehenyldimonium methosulfate, and dicapryl/dicaprylyl dimonium chloride.
  • Silicone conditioning agents may also be used in the present invention.
  • Nonvolatile silicones both water soluble and water insoluble, are particularly suitable. In some embodiments, such silicones have a viscosity of 10 to 600,000 centistokes, and in some other embodiments 20 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C.
  • Suitable water insoluble silicones include amodimethicone, bisphenylhexamethicone, dimethicone, hexadecyl methicone, methicone, phenyl trimethicone , simethicone, dimethylhydrogensiloxane, stearoxytrimethylsilane, vinyldimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol , and the like.
  • silicones are available from Dow Corning as the 3225C formulation aid, Dow 190 and 193 fluids, or similar products marketed by Goldschmidt under the ABIL tradename.
  • the silicone conditioning agent is a silicone emulsion such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone and bis-cetearyl amodimethicone .
  • silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone and bis-cetearyl amodimethicone .
  • Polyalkyleneimines such as polyethyleneimines (PEI) and their derivatives, are further examples of hair conditioning agents. These polymers are described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 1 426 035 and International Patent Application Publication No. WO 2005/092274. Polyethyleneimines are described, for example, in: “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd edition, vol. 20, 1982, pp. 214-216, and "Polyethyleneimine Prospective Application", H. N. Feigenbaum, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 108, 1993, p. 73. The polyethyleneimines which can be used in accordance with the present disclosure generally exhibit the following formula: — (CH 2 —CH 2 —NH)n—
  • n is the mean number of ethyleneimine units, n ranging from 5 to 10 000.
  • the ethyleneimine homopolymers can be branched.
  • Further examples include polyethyleneimines of the Lupasol range, such as the products sold under the names Lupasol G35, FG, PS, HF, and P, and Polymin SK from BASF.
  • the polyethyleneimines (PEI) can be modified by grafts, such as hydrophilic grafts (for example, polyethylene glycol (PEG) , polyvinyl acetate (PVA) , and polyacrylate) and hydrophobic grafts (for example, silicone and/or C 8 -C 30 carbonaceous fatty chains) , as described in International Patent Application Publication Nos. WO 97/20879, WO 97/23456, WO 02/095122, and WO 02/15854, U.S. Patent 5,756,080, European Patent No. 0 524 612, and in H. Petersen, et al . , Macromolecules , 2002, 35, p.
  • hydrophilic grafts for example, polyethylene glycol (PEG) , polyvinyl acetate (PVA) , and polyacrylate
  • hydrophobic grafts for example, silicone and/or C 8 -C 30 carbonaceous fatty chains
  • PEI-PEG compounds are sold, for example, under the names Lupasol SC61B, SC62J, LU158, and HEOl by BASF.
  • PEI compounds comprising fatty chains are, for instance, under the names Lupasol ESA 51685 and LU157 by BASF.
  • Yet other PEI-based conditioning agents that may be useful in the present invention include glycidoxypropyl trimethyloxysilane/PEI-250 cross-polymer fluorescent brightener 230 salt, HDI/PEI-45/SMDI cross-polymer, PEI-14 PEG-10/PPG-7 cross-polymer and sodium PEG-4 PEI-6 phosphonate.
  • Useful hair conditioning agents further include hydrolyzed organic materials such as hydrolyzed casein; hydrolyzed collagen; hydrolyzed hair keratin; hydrolyzed milk protein; hydrolyzed jojoba esters; hydrolyzed soy protein; hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein; hydrolyzed amaranth protein; palmityoyl hydrolyzed pea amino proteins; amino acids; peptides, and the like.
  • hydrolyzed organic materials such as hydrolyzed casein; hydrolyzed collagen; hydrolyzed hair keratin; hydrolyzed milk protein; hydrolyzed jojoba esters; hydrolyzed soy protein; hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein; hydrolyzed amaranth protein; palmityoyl hydrolyzed pea amino proteins; amino acids; peptides, and the like.
  • fatty alkyl esters e.g., C10-C30 fatty alkyl benzoates
  • fatty acids e.g., C10-C30 fatty acids such as lauric acid and stearic acid
  • C10-C30 fatty amides e.g., lauric diethanolamide
  • fatty alcohols e.g., a C10-C30 alcohol, such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, and mixtures thereof, e.g., cetearyl alcohol
  • alkoxylated fatty alcohols e.g., ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols such as ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, and polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether
  • alkoxylated fatty alcohols e.g., ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols such as ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, and polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether
  • the hair conditioning agent is present in the fixing compositions in amounts that generally range from about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments from about 5.0% to about 25%, and in yet other embodiments about 10.0% to about 20.0% by weight, based upon the total weight of the fixing composition.
  • the primary solvent in both the reducing and the fixing compositions is water, which is present in an amount that generally ranges from about 1.0% to about 99%, and in some embodiments about 5.0% to about 95%, and in yet other embodiments 10% to about 90% and in yet other embodiments from about 50% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.
  • Secondary, water-miscible solvents such as lower monohydric and dihydric alkanols, may also be present to the extent desired. Examples include ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol, and glycerin and propylene glycol respectively.
  • the relative amounts of the ingredients in the compositions may be chosen with reference to the disclosed ranges in order to formulate the reducing composition at a pH that generally ranges from about 4 to about 10, and in some embodiments about 5 to about 8 and in some other embodiments about 5.5 to about 7, and to formulate the fixing composition at a pH that generally ranges from about 3 to about 7, and in some embodiments from about 3.5 to about 6.5, and in some other embodiments from about 4.0 to about 6. If desired, pH adjustment may be facilitated by the inclusion of a pH-modifying agent
  • AMP sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide
  • composition (s) of the present invention may further comprise one or more optional components known or otherwise effective for use in hair care or personal care products, provided that the optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics, or performance.
  • optional components known or otherwise effective for use in hair care or personal care products, provided that the optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics, or performance.
  • optional components that may be present in the reducing and/or fixing compositions of the present invention are disclosed in The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Ninth Edition, 2002, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition, 2004.
  • plasticizers include plasticizers , surfactants (which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic) , inorganic salts, hydrophilic colloids, hydrating active agents, anhydrous solvents, humectants, neutralizing agents, propellants, moisturizers (e.g., urea (which may also useful as an agent that facilitates penetration of the small molecule actives (e.g., the C2-C10 carboxylic acid and the amino acids into the hair shafts) and guanidinium salts) , emollients, lubricants and penetrants such as various lanolin compounds, vitamins, proteins, preservatives, dyes, tints, colorants, sunscreens, thickening agents (e.g., polymeric thickeners, such as xanthan gum) , physiologically active compounds for treating the hair or skin (e.g., anti-dandruff actives, hair growth actives), non-pol
  • surfactants which may be anionic
  • zwitterionic surfactants include betaines, for example higher alkyl betaines such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis- (2- hydroxyethyl ) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis- (2- hydroxypropyl ) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma- carboxylethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof Also suitable are sulfo- and amido- betaines such as coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, and the like.
  • betaines for example higher alkyl betaines such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine,
  • suitable inorganic salts include aluminum, sodium, potassium, and magnesium salts of inorganic or organic acids.
  • suitable salts include sodium metasilicate, sodium chloride, sodium silicate, aluminum citrate, calcium saccharin, calcium salicylate, calcium citrate, calcium benzoate, magnesium acetate, magnesium ascorbate, magnesium PCA, magnesium gluconate, potassium acetate, potassium benzoate, potassium citrate, potassium sorbate, sodium acetate, sodium ascorbate, sodium citrate, sodium gluconate, sodium pyruvate, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic colloids include hydroxyethylcellulose, locust bean, maltodextrin, methylcellulose, agar, dextran, dextran sulfate, gelatin, pectin, potassium alginate, sodium carboxymethylchitin, xanthan gum, and the like.
  • humectants include monomeric, homopolymeric, and/or block copolymeric ethers as well as mono-, di-, or polyhydric alcohols.
  • Suitable hydrating active agents include ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, ⁇ -sitosterol , campesterol) , essential fatty acids, 1, 2-diacylglycerol, 4- chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes, petroleum jelly and lanolin; compounds which directly increase the water content of the stratum corneum, such as urea and its derivatives, threalose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, pidolates, serine, xylitol, lactic acid and sodium lactate, glyceryl polyacrylate, ectoin and its
  • Suitable anhydrous solvents include dimethiconol , dimethicone, cyclomethicones , phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone .
  • humectants include glycols in monomeric or polymeric form such as polyethylene and polypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-200, which are polyethylene glycols having from 4 to 200 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well as Cl-6 alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, trehalose, trehalose dihydrdate, and the like.
  • composition (s) of the present invention further may comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, and in some other embodiments from about 0.2% to about 5.0%, of a gelling agent to help provide the desired viscosity to the composition (s) .
  • suitable optional gelling agents include crosslinked carboxylic acid polymers; unneutralized crosslinked carboxylic acid polymers; unneutralized modified crosslinked carboxylic acid polymers; crosslinked ethylene/maleic anhydride copolymers; unneutralized crosslinked ethylene/maleic anhydride copolymers (e.g., EMA 81 commercially available from Monsanto) ; unneutralized crosslinked alkyl ether/acrylate copolymers (e.g., SalcareTM SC90 commercially available from Allied Colloids) ; unneutralized crosslinked copolymers of sodium polyacrylate, mineral oil, and PEG-1 trideceth-6 (e.g., SalcareTM SC91 commercially available from Allied Colloids) ; unneutralized crosslinked copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (e.g., StabilezeTM QM-PVM/MA copolymer commercially available from International Specialty Products); hydrophobically modified nonionic cellulose polymers;
  • the hair Prior to applying the reducing composition, the hair may be shampooed, at least once, and then towel-dried.
  • the reducing composition may be applied to the hair by a device such as a brush, preferably combed through the hair to saturate the hair. It is allowed to remain on the hair for about 10 minutes to about 60 minutes, and in some embodiments for about 30 to about 40 minutes, and in some other embodiments for about 35 minutes to about 45 minutes and in some other embodiments, from about 40 minutes to about 50 minutes.
  • the reducing composition is allowed to remain on the hair relatively longer for thick or coarse hair as compared to color-treated hair.
  • the leave-on time may be relatively low e.g., about 20 minutes, if the reducing composition is applied with heat.
  • the fixing composition may also be applied by a device such as a brush, as well as by hand. It is typically allowed to stay on the hair for about 1 to about 10 minutes, and in some embodiments, for about 5 to about 10 minutes.
  • the hair may be rinsed one or more times, e.g., after application of the reducing composition, after application of the fixing composition, or after the application of the reducing composition and after the application of the fixing composition.
  • Straightening or shaping steps may be conducted prior to or after application of the fixing composition.
  • Straightening may be achieved by application of at least one round, and more typically about 4 to about 10 or from about 8 to about 10 rounds of a straight or flat iron (typically with heat at a temperature of about 400F to about 450F) . More than 10 such treatments may be applied, e.g., 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 or more.
  • the hair Prior to straightening, the hair may be at least partially (e.g., about 50% to about 90% dried) using a heat source such as a blow dryer.
  • the hair may then be completely dried, using a heat source typically a blow dryer.
  • a conditioning composition such as a creme which helps to restore moisture balance.
  • the hair is not washed or subjected to water for about 48 hours following treatment.
  • the reducing composition may be applied to the hair (e.g., until saturation), and allowed to stay on the hair for about 40 to about 60 minutes.
  • the hair may then be at least partially dried optionally in combination with combing.
  • the hair may then be straightened e.g., by applying at least one round and more typically from about 4 to about 10 rounds of hot iron treatment.
  • the fixing composition may then be applied to the hair, (e.g., to saturation), and allowed to stay on the hair for about 5 to about 10 minutes, which may then be optionally followed by even combing and rinsing.
  • the reducing composition may be applied to the hair (e.g., until saturation), and allowed to stay on the hair for about 40 to about 60 minutes, followed by rinsing.
  • the fixing composition may then be applied to the hair, (e.g., to saturation), and allowed to stay on the hair for about 5 to about 10 minutes, followed by rinsing.
  • the hair may then be at least partially dried optionally in combination with combing.
  • the hair may then be straightened e.g., by applying at least one round and more typically from about 4 to about 10 rounds of hot iron treatment.
  • the reducing composition may be applied to the hair (e.g., until saturation), and allowed to stay on the hair for about 40 to about 60 minutes, followed by application of the fixing composition (e.g., to saturation), which is allowed to stay on the hair for about 5 to about 10 minutes, followed by rinsing with water.
  • the hair may then be at least partially -dried optionally in combination with combing.
  • the hair may then be straightened by applying at least one round and more typically from about 4 to about 10 rounds of hot iron treatment then, if desired, drying (e.g., blow drying) to completion.
  • a straight (hot) iron may be used, whereas in embodiments wherein shaping is desired, a curling iron may be used.
  • use of the present invention may provide additional benefits which include, for example, increased shape retention and/or durability, increased appearance of volume, increased resistance to the effects of humidity, for example, upon the style of the hair and/or upon the condition of the hair.
  • compositions and methods of the present invention may be used on all types of hair, female and male alike, including Caucasian, Asian, Hispanic, African and African- American hair types.
  • the systems and methods of the present invention are suitable for use both in the salon and at home.
  • the reducing and fixing compositions may be included in separate containers the form of a kit or package - thus providing a two-component hair straightening system.
  • the system may be included in a single container having two separate chambers designed so as to prevent admixing of the two compositions during storage and prior to or during use.
  • the packaging may be of a size suitable for a single application, or unit dose, of the reducing and conditioning compositions.
  • the kit may comprise a number of unit doses suitable for an indicated hair straightening regimen.
  • the package may further include at least one additional composition (such as a shampoo, a colorant, or a styling aid such as a gel, a mousse, a pomade, etc.), at least one device such as an implement (e.g., applicator brush, and comb), an energy delivery device (blow dryer or hot (straight and/or curling) iron), printed materials (e.g., instructions for complying with or carrying out a hair straightening or shaping regimen) , and combinations thereof.
  • the instructions for complying with a hair treatment regimen may be directed toward treatment by a professional stylist or toward treatment by a consumer who is not a professionally-trained stylist.
  • other printed materials may include printed material attached directly or indirectly to the package that contains the compositions, or placed directly or indirectly near at least one of the compositions, or in the form of an electronic or a broadcast message associated with the compositions, or images comparing the appearance of a person prior to use of the compositions to the appearance of the same person (with straightened or shaped hair) after use of the hair straightening or shaping system.
  • the term "about” refers to ⁇ 10-15% (e.g., ⁇ 10%, ⁇ 11%, ⁇ 12%, ⁇ 13%, ⁇ 14%, and ⁇ 15%, of the referenced value .
  • the batch was made at room temperature. In a primary container with a side sweep and turbine, all surfactants were mixed together with slow mixing. In a secondary container, Polyquaternium-10 was dispersed into small amount water and the dispersed solution was added into main container. The viscosity was adjusted with sodium chloride to be in the range of 6,000 to 10,000 cps.
  • the batch was made at room temperature.
  • hydroxyethylcellulose was dispersed into water to form lump-free solution.
  • the other ingredients were then added.
  • the batch was made at 75-80 °C.
  • hydroxyethylcellulose was dispersed into water to form a lump-free solution.
  • the other ingredients were added. Once all ingredients were melted completely, the batch was cooled.
  • Hot ToolsTM hot iron used had a variable temperature from 280°F to about 450°F.
  • the hair was washed with deep cleansing shampoo twice, and then rinsed followed by towel drying.
  • the reducing composition described in Example 1 was then applied to the hair until saturation, and allowed to stand for 40 to 60 minutes, followed by rinsing with water and towel-dried.
  • the fixing composition of Example 2 was then applied to the hair to saturation, followed by even combing.
  • the hair was blow-dried to about 90% dry, followed by four or five rounds of hot iron treatment.
  • the hair was then rinsed with water and then dried to completion.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des systèmes et des procédés de lissage ou de mise en forme (par exemple frisage ou bouclage) des cheveux comprenant les étapes consistant a) à appliquer une composition réductrice aqueuse sur les cheveux, composition contenant une quantité efficace d'un agent réducteur consommable, un premier acide aminé et un premier acide carboxylique en C2 à C10 ; b) à appliquer une composition fixatrice aqueuse sur les cheveux rincés, ladite composition fixatrice contenant un second acide aminé, un second acide carboxylique en C2 à C10 et un agent de conditionnement des cheveux, les premier et second acides aminés et les premier et second acides carboxyliques en C2 à C10 pouvant être identiques ou différents ; et c) à lisser ou mettre en forme les cheveux.
PCT/US2011/048810 2010-08-23 2011-08-23 Système et procédé de lissage ou de mise en forme des cheveux WO2012027369A2 (fr)

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WO2012079915A3 (fr) * 2010-12-16 2014-01-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents pour la modification de couleur et/ou de forme de fibres kératiniques
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US20150306012A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2015-10-29 L'oreal Composition comprising a dicarbonyl compound and process for straightening the hair using this composition
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US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
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US10952516B2 (en) * 2010-07-20 2021-03-23 Kao Corporation Process for semipermanent straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair
WO2021123904A1 (fr) 2019-12-17 2021-06-24 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés d'acide gras polymeres pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier les cheveux
WO2021123911A2 (fr) 2019-12-17 2021-06-24 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés d'acides gras polymériques non ioniques pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier des cheveux
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof
WO2021203180A1 (fr) * 2020-04-09 2021-10-14 L'oreal Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux
US11154480B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-10-26 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a sugar
US11400042B2 (en) 2015-12-23 2022-08-02 L'oreal Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the application of a composition comprising urea or a derivative thereof, a polyol and an amino silicone
WO2022263525A1 (fr) 2021-06-16 2022-12-22 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés de sel d'acide gras polymères pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier les cheveux
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US20120312317A1 (en) * 2010-02-24 2012-12-13 Kao Corporation Process for semi-permanent straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair
US10952516B2 (en) * 2010-07-20 2021-03-23 Kao Corporation Process for semipermanent straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair
WO2012079915A3 (fr) * 2010-12-16 2014-01-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents pour la modification de couleur et/ou de forme de fibres kératiniques
US20150258007A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2015-09-17 L'oreal Composition comprising a dicarbonyl compound and an amino silicone, and process for straightening the hair using this composition
US20150306012A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2015-10-29 L'oreal Composition comprising a dicarbonyl compound and process for straightening the hair using this composition
RU2697654C2 (ru) * 2013-02-28 2019-08-16 Као Корпорейшн Композиция и способ для полуперманентного выпрямления волос
US10117817B2 (en) 2013-02-28 2018-11-06 Kao Corporation Composition and process for semi-permanent straightening of the hair
US8999310B1 (en) 2013-07-11 2015-04-07 Chuckles, Inc. Rapid permanent hair setting formulation, system and method
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US9877559B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-01-30 The Procter & Gamble Comany Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
JP2016540006A (ja) * 2013-12-19 2016-12-22 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー 還元性組成物及び定着用組成物を使用したケラチン繊維の整形
WO2015094838A1 (fr) * 2013-12-19 2015-06-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Mise en forme de fibres de kératine au moyen d'une composition réductrice et d'une composition de fixation
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof
CN105828795A (zh) * 2013-12-19 2016-08-03 宝洁公司 使用还原组合物和固定组合物使角蛋白纤维成形
US9918921B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2018-03-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Methods for shaping fibrous material and treatment compositions therefor
US11154480B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-10-26 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a sugar
US10912726B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-02-09 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a reducing composition and a fixing composition
US10729630B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2020-08-04 The Procter & Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising at least two functional groups selected from: —C(OH)- and —C(=O)OH
US20160058683A1 (en) * 2014-08-31 2016-03-03 Cosphatech LLC Hair-Straightening Compositions and Methods
US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
US10449134B2 (en) 2014-12-23 2019-10-22 L'oreal Process for treating keratin fibres with a composition comprising an amino acid
FR3030240A1 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-24 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques avec une composition comprenant un acide amine
FR3030241A1 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-24 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques avec une composition comprenant un acide amine et un polyol
WO2016102543A1 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2016-06-30 L'oreal Procédé permettant de traiter des fibres kératiniques avec une composition comprenant un acide aminé
JP2018500347A (ja) * 2014-12-23 2018-01-11 ロレアル アミノ酸を含む組成物によるケラチン繊維の処置方法
US11896697B2 (en) * 2015-05-12 2024-02-13 L'oreal Composition for keratin fibers
FR3046058A1 (fr) * 2015-12-23 2017-06-30 Oreal Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques comprenant l'application d'une composition qui comprend de l'uree ou l'un de ses derives, un polyol et un monoalcool
US11400042B2 (en) 2015-12-23 2022-08-02 L'oreal Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the application of a composition comprising urea or a derivative thereof, a polyol and an amino silicone
US11559475B2 (en) 2016-05-19 2023-01-24 Liw Patent Company Limited By Guarantee Hair strengthening ingredient and method for strengthening hair
WO2018000059A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 L'oreal Compositions et procédés d'amélioration de l'apparence des cheveux
US11298305B2 (en) 2016-06-30 2022-04-12 L'oreal Compositions and methods for improving the appearance of the hair
US12214066B2 (en) * 2017-04-07 2025-02-04 Yissum Research Development Company Of The Hebrew University Of Jerusalem Ltd. Hair care compositions
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US10982051B2 (en) 2017-06-05 2021-04-20 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Aqueous compositions for hair treatment comprising polyorganosiloxanes with polyhydroxyaromatic moieties
WO2018226656A1 (fr) 2017-06-05 2018-12-13 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Compositions aqueuses pour le traitement des cheveux
WO2018226548A1 (fr) 2017-06-05 2018-12-13 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Traitement capillaire comprenant des polyorganosiloxanes à fractions polyhydroxyaromatiques
WO2020104687A1 (fr) 2018-11-24 2020-05-28 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Utilisation de composés polyhydroxyaromatiques pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés
WO2020117509A1 (fr) 2018-12-04 2020-06-11 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Composés de poly(acide carboxylique) pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier les cheveux
WO2020117516A1 (fr) 2018-12-04 2020-06-11 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Utilisation de composés poly(acide carboxylique) pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, spécialement des cheveux
US10617617B1 (en) 2018-12-04 2020-04-14 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Polycarboxylic acid compounds for the treatment of fibrious amino acid based substrates, especially hair
US11090255B2 (en) 2018-12-04 2021-08-17 Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Use of polycarboxylic acid compounds for the treatment of fibrious amino acid based substrates, especially hair
WO2021123904A1 (fr) 2019-12-17 2021-06-24 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés d'acide gras polymeres pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier les cheveux
WO2021123911A2 (fr) 2019-12-17 2021-06-24 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés d'acides gras polymériques non ioniques pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier des cheveux
FR3109087A1 (fr) * 2020-04-09 2021-10-15 L'oreal Composition cosmetique pour cheveux et processus pour mettre en forme ou modifier la forme des cheveux
WO2021203180A1 (fr) * 2020-04-09 2021-10-14 L'oreal Composition cosmétique capillaire et procédé de mise en forme ou de modification de la forme des cheveux
WO2022263525A1 (fr) 2021-06-16 2022-12-22 Momentive Performance Materials Gmbh Composés de sel d'acide gras polymères pour le traitement de substrats fibreux à base d'acides aminés, en particulier les cheveux

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