WO2011067707A2

WO2011067707A2 - A cosmetic treatment method

Info

Publication number: WO2011067707A2
Application number: PCT/IB2010/055477
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-François Grollier; Henri Samain
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-12-02
Filing date: 2010-11-29
Publication date: 2011-06-09
Also published as: WO2011067707A3

Abstract

The present invention provides a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials starting with a starting composition including an active ingredient of activity that can be modified by exposure to a stimulus, the method comprising the steps consisting in: • selecting a product line option for the product from at least two product line options for the product corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a product line option for the product, in particular otherwise than on the basis of information deriving from a sensor for a physical parameter of the environment of the user, a clock signal or data deriving from an external transmitter; • if necessary, exposing the starting composition to the stimulus to obtain the product line option selected or determined thereby; and • applying the composition as-is to the keratinous materials after any exposure to the stimulus.

Description

A COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD

The present invention relates to methods for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, in particular the skin, lips, the nails, and hair, for example the hair of the head.

In particular, the invention is applicable to products for colorizing or bleaching hair, makeup products such as lipsticks, foundations, nail polishes, glosses, skin colorizing products, in particular self-tanning agents, or skin lightening products.

It may be a fluid, for example in the form of a liquid, cream, gel or loose powder, for cosmetic or dermatological makeup or skin care.

Prior art

Cosmetics, also known as cosmetic compositions, are frequently produced in many variations so that they can be adapted to different situations.

Thus, sunscreens are produced in a variety of strengths, to suit different sunlight conditions. This also applies to toiletries; they may be provided in different strengths for differing levels of sensitivity of the hair or different skin qualities.

A wide range of colorizing products, for example for coloring hair or for makeup, is also produced in order to accommodate the wishes of users.

In addition, different consumers do not obtain the same results with the same product because the results depend on their natural hair or skin color.

When colorizing, in order to assist consumers in selecting products, images are used that reproduce and illustrate the anticipated end effect for a given product, for several different initial colors. That solution suffers from substantial limitations since, although it shows the expected result for each product, it does not solve the problem of identifying the product to be used to obtain a given desired result.

Experts such as hair stylists and beauticians often have the experience necessary for deducing which product to use when starting out from a given initial color. The solution consisting in consulting an expert is not always convenient. It may be so for colorizing, but is less so for other services such as hygiene products and cleansing products, for example, as the expert would have to have knowledge of parameters such as the hardness of the water at home, for example, on which the efficacy of such products may depend.

Even with colorizing, the solution consisting in consulting an expert every time a color change is being considered and/or every time the natural color has changed may not be practical, and also may be expensive.

Furthermore, manufacturers have to deal with managing the manufacture of products organized into a variety of product line options, while distributors have to deal with storing such products, since certain product line options are purchased more than others.

Although producers and distributors try to draw upon rules that can assist them in optimizing production or orders, it is often difficult to determine in advance which product line options will be purchased the most; this applies both to products that are recent on the market and to products that have been sold for years. The commercial positioning of a new product means that buying decisions made from among the various product line options are more difficult to predict, and buying trends for cosmetic products are influenced by fashion or climate, changes in which are difficult to predict. As an example, sun products are produced before the summer. If the sunlight is not as strong as-is normal, highly protective products will be left on the shelves.

This also applies with skin hydration or hair conditioning, which depends on the degree of sensitivity of the individual, with depilatories, the results of which depend on the parameters of an individual's hair firmness and abundance, or with cleansing products, the efficacy of which may depend on the hardness of the water, i.e. parameters peculiar to the individual's home.

Managing production and storage is always difficult. Certain products are manufactured or stored because they do not have immediate purchasers, which gives rise to warehousing costs. Further, shelf lives, which are limited for some products, aggravate the problem, since that may render the products unsaleable. Other products may be missing. This results in stock outages and the need to restart manufacture, bringing additional costs.

Finally, the user is frequently faced with the problem of choice when ready to acquire a product. The user will hesitate to buy one strength as opposed to another, since it is difficult to clearly discern the result that is desired.

Remote sales, rendered possible by catalogues or by the internet, mean that it is difficult to envisage the final result that the products should provide. The consumer finds it difficult to figure out the proposed result because image sizes are often small, and rendering of colors in photos may be approximate.

Clearly, the consumer may acquire several products with different

characteristics, but that solution is impractical both as regards volume and cost.

There are also circumstances in which product manufacturers offer just one strength. This is often true of shampoos, makeup, antiperspirants, shaving foams, etc.

However, it may be important to produce products in several strengths since needs are not identical. The reason why manufacturers hesitate to provide several strengths with such products is that there are no practical means that could assist future users in making up their minds. As an example, with shampoos, although it is known that some people require greater washing strength than others, there is no practical means for indicating to a user how to make that choice. Users have to rely on notions such as how quickly their hair becomes greasy or the hardness of their domestic water supply, which may be difficult to evaluate.

There are also situations in which the same product is to be supplied to a number individuals and/or it is not possible in advance to select one strength rather than another. This is typical of hotel rooms and other public places. Thus, frequently the most common possible product is selected, the idea being that it should please the greatest number of people. In fact, satisfaction turns out to be rather low, illustrating once again the great variety in aspirations.

This also happens with families. Usually, one individual in the family makes the purchases for the whole family. That particular person risks making an error in buying one product strength rather than another. It is often only upon returning home that it is noticed that the product choice has been poor.

European patent EP 1 813 335 describes a method of preparing a cosmetic composition where the composition can be adjusted, but it cannot be applied as-is to human keratinous materials; injection of a fluid is subsequently required.

Documents US 5 785 960 and WO 98/30189 describe methods for the customized preparation of cosmetic compositions without exposing the composition to a stimulus.

WO 2010/046884 describes a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition in which generating the product as a given product line option is carried out on the basis of data derived from an external transmitter.

In WO 2010/046885, a clock signal is used to select the appropriate product line option.

WO 2010/046883 discloses a sensor for a physical parameter of the user's environment, enabling the product line option to be selected.

Further, tanning causes variations in skin color. Thus, the upper surface of the arm is normally much more tanned than its front surface. The boundary between the two presents color gradation. That color variation effect is the signature of a natural tan. In contrast, when artificial tanning is carried out using a self-tanning agent, that signature is not present, having a deleterious effect on the appearance and rendering the result artificial.

It is practically impossible to reproduce this appearance of a natural tan with one or more self-tanning agents, even when using different strengths.

Further, if it is desired to reproduce the appearance of a natural tan with various makeup products, both placement and color must be worked on with great precision.

Furthermore, ageing of hair and its natural color produces variations in color in the hair. The color varies from the root to the end, and the color also varies depending on whether the locks are exposed or buried in the hair. Here again, it is very difficult to reproduce aspects representative of a natural color with current products.

Publications WO 2004/084853, EP 1 262 473, WO 2002/038120, EP

1 294 671, EP 1 167 362, EP 1 146 033, US 6 492 323, US 6 218 355, US 6 133 228, and US 5 753 261 describe photosensitive compositions that can release a fragrance.

First object

There exists a need for a technical solution for minimizing problems arising from the manufacture and storage of cosmetic or dermatological products produced in various product line options. The invention aims to satisfy this need and in exemplary embodiments, it provides a method of cosmetic treatment starting from a starting composition including an active ingredient of activity that can be modified by exposure to a stimulus, the method comprising the steps consisting in:

• selecting a product line option for the product from at least two product line options for the product corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a product line option for the product, in particular otherwise than on the basis of information deriving from a sensor for a physical parameter of the environment of the user, a clock signal or data deriving from an external transmitter;

• if necessary, exposing the starting composition to the stimulus to obtain the product line option selected or determined thereby; and

• applying the composition, in particular as-is, after any exposure to the stimulus.

The product line option may be selected by the consumer. In a variation, the product line option may be determined from at least one measurement of a physical parameter of the consumer or otherwise, as-is described below. This determination may be made automatically. One of the product line options may correspond to the starting composition without any exposure to the stimulus. In a variation, the starting composition is always exposed to the stimulus to obtain the set of possible product line options that can be employed.

The quantity of composition exposed to the stimulus at one time may be more than 1 g [gram].

The user may adjust an energy source producing the stimulus, on the basis of at least some information contained in an item of packaging for the composition or transmitted to the consumer via a network, in particular the internet. The adjustment information is, for example, read from a nomogram or a table.

The method may include automatic determination of the adjustment to an energy source producing the stimulus. The automatic determination may, for example, be carried out on the basis of acquiring at least some information relating to the use of the product and/or to a result to be achieved with the product.

In other exemplary embodiments the invention provides an assembly comprising:

• the starting composition; and

• means allowing the user to appraise the adjustment to be carried out as a function of the desired product line option, for example said table or nomogram, said means possibly being packaged with the starting composition.

The table or nomogram may be packaged with the starting composition in the same packaging, for example in the printed form. The nomogram or table may be integrated into packaging for the product or contained in the same pack as the product, for example in the form of a user's guide.

In other exemplary embodiments the invention also provides a system for applying a cosmetic or dermato logical product, comprising:

• a reservoir containing a starting composition, especially at least 1 g, preferably at least 10 g, or even 20 g of said composition, including an active ingredient, the activity of the starting composition being capable of being modified by exposure to a stimulus, at least two different degrees of activation of the starting composition respectively producing two product line options for the product, said product line options being applicable as-is to the keratinous materials, for example;

• first means comprising, for example, a user interface allowing the user to input at least some information linked to the use of the product; and

· second means to generate, in particular automatically, as a function of at least the information input by the user, at least some data for adjustment to an energy source in order, by exposing a quantity of product, for example at least 1 g of product, to the stimulus, to modify the activity thereof, in order to obtain a product line option corresponding to the information input by the user.

The reservoir may be provided with a removable shutting means, especially a hinged, screwed, or snap fitted cap, a flap, especially molded or with a resilient member distinct from the shutting member, a dispenser system that can be actuated by the user, and/or a dosing system, in particular employing a pump. The reservoir may have flexible or deformable walls. The product may be dispensed with or without taking up air. The largest transverse dimension of the reservoir, when it is held with its axis vertical, is more than 1 cm [centimeter], for example.

The term "applicable as-is" should be understood to mean that the product line options for the product do not need an additional operation that modifies their formulation in order to be able to be used. As an example, there is no extraction or dilution by percolation.

The activity of the product may be linked to the use of a deactivated reactivatable active ingredient as defined below.

The variable activity of the composition as a function of the product line options may result in varying the concentration in the product of at least one active ingredient in a form that is active as regards human keratinous materials.

The energy source may be external to the system or, in a variation, it may form part thereof.

The system may optionally include automatic or semi-automatic means for controlling the energy source as a function of the product line option to be obtained.

Because of the invention, the potency of the product may be adjusted before application.

Adjustment may be carried out by the user, for example as a function of a target result, which is of particular interest for colorizing products, concealers or sunscreen products, inter alia. The invention also means that consumers will be more satisfied with their remote purchases, for example purchased via the internet, and ensures more flexible management of manufacturing and storage, especially by reducing the number of product line options manufactured in the factory. The invention may also allow users to selectively target the level of effectiveness of the product on certain parts of the body, for example to produce highlights or for beauty grain treatment. Thus, in one implementation of the invention, this is a method in which the user treats a first zone, and then modifies the activity of the product by exposing the starting composition to a stimulus, prior to treating a second zone that is different from the first. In a non-exhaustive manner, the invention is applicable to photoprotective products, to products to protect the skin from drying out, to chapping protection, to hair colorizing or bleaching products, to makeup products, such as lipsticks, foundations, nail polishes, glosses, to skin colorizing products, to self-tanning products, to skin lightening products, to peeling products, to hair care products, to hair styling products, to products for permanently shaping the hair, such as a permanent wave agent, untangling or smoothing products, to products for washing the skin or hair, to depilatory products, either chemical or mechanical, to products for treating the teeth and the mouth, to care products for oily or dry skin, to moisturizing products, to antiperspirant products, and to bactericidal products. The various product line options may correspond to at least two properties of the product other than color.

Another advantage of the invention is that it renders possible the production of products that can propose additional options. As an example, the invention means that a hair washing product can be produced that is endowed with an additional colorizing function. In this example, the colorizing function can be adjusted as a function of the degree of exposure to the stimulus.

The stimulus may comprise a light, thermal, mechanical, especially vibratory, and/or radio-frequency stimulus.

The system may be configured to expose only a small quantity of the product to the stimulus before dispensing or during dispensing, for example a quantity of product in the range 0.3 g to 10 g. This means that the product line option for the product can be modified from one application to another.

The system may include an activation chamber where only the quantity of product that is to be dispensed is exposed to the stimulus, that quantity being separate from the reservoir containing the remainder of the product. The volume of said activation chamber is, for example, in the range 0.25 cm³ to 10 cm³.

In a variation, all of the product initially offered to the user is exposed to the stimulus at once, in order to obtain the desired product line option, and the product retains that product line option until it is exhausted. The product may be exposed to the stimulus while it is in the same packaging as that which acted to present it to the consumer for sale. Such packaging may include printed decoration and/or decoration may be present on an adhesive label. This packaging may include a closing member such as a plug or a hinged cover or a flap opening under the pressure from the product. The packaging may also include dispenser means such as a pump. If necessary, the packaging may be provided with safety means to prevent any excessive overpressure in the reservoir during exposure to the stimulus. The starting composition may be exposed to the stimulus with its original packaging. The period for exposure to the stimulus may be more than 0.5 s [second].

The first above-mentioned means may comprise a user interface, allowing the user to input data. The first means may comprise a sensor capable of measuring a characteristic of the user, for example a phototype, or the environment of the user, for example the water hardness.

With automatic configuration of the system, the system may be provided with an interface and an energy source. The user may need to insert the starting composition into the energy source, provide information about the user's wishes, or answer requests for information from the system. The other operations do not require the user's intervention and so the user ends up seeing the product proffered in a ready- to-use condition.

In a configuration with little automation, the starting composition is associated with a nomogram or a table on which the user reads the adjustment information, setting the desired final result and optionally at least one other parameter. The user then employs an energy source, for example with a power of 5 W [Watt], 10 W, 25 W, 40 W, 60 W, 75 W, 100 W, or 500 W, for example a lamp or microwave oven, to prepare the product using the adjustment information.

The system may include a packaging and dispenser device including said reservoir, for example. This device may be portable, for example, and hand-held. At least one of the energy source, the interface, and the control means may be incorporated into said device.

The system may also comprise a packaging and dispenser device that is portable and hand-held, and a base for receiving said device when not in use, said base comprising, for example, at least one of the following: energy source, and interface and control means. The reservoir may be part of the packaging and dispenser device. The base may optionally refill the reservoir.

It may be of advantage for the base to contain the energy source in order to make the packaging and dispenser device lighter when it is manipulated by the user. The product may then optionally flow between the base and the packaging device. As an example, a quantity of the starting composition is exposed to the stimulus in the base, and is then transferred to the portable packaging device and dispensed from said device for use by the user.

In a variation, the starting composition passes from the portable device into the base, is exposed to the stimulus, and then is returned to the portable device.

Circulation may be by means of a manual or electric pump. All or part of the starting composition may thus flow via the base. The interface may comprise signaling means to transmit information to the user, especially about the adjustment to be carried out. Thus, when the energy source is external to the system, the user may have available at least some adjustment information transmitted by means of the signaling means and can then personally make the adjustment to the energy source, said adjustment comprising, for example, selecting the intensity of heating and/or heating period, or even selecting one energy source from several.

In the presence of the control means, the system may be adjusted

automatically, without the need for intervention by the user. The source is then controlled so as to expose the product to the stimulus suitable for obtaining the desired product line option. Adjustment may be semi-automatic, i.e. the user retains the option of modifying an adjustment proposed by the system and/or is invited to confirm it before the energy source is activated.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the system may be produced in order to offer the possibility of selecting an automatic or manual mode of operation for the system. In the manual mode of operation, by giving information to the interface, the user may determine the desired degree of activity of the composition. In the automatic mode of operation, the adjustment may be made based on data input by the user and/or on measurements, and the degree of activity to be achieved is determined by the system applying predefined rules as a function of that data. In the automatic mode of operation, adjustment information may be disseminated or the system may itself control the energy source.

The system may be configured to disseminate at least some information informing the user about at least one property of the product line option obtained after exposure to the stimulus. As an example, the system includes an indicator that is exposed to the stimulus at the same time as the product and that informs the user about the product line option obtained. It may, for example, be a colored indicator that is incorporated into the composition or into the packaging device and that changes color as a function of the product line option obtained.

The reservoir may be produced from any suitable material, for example a thermoplastic, glass, or ceramic substance. The reservoir may have a volume that is constant or variable. The product may be removed from the reservoir under gravity, by pumping, by reducing the internal volume of the reservoir, or with the aid of an applicator. The energy source may be separate from the reservoir during application of the product. The energy source may be supplied via the mains or by batteries or rechargeable batteries. Irrespective of the manner in which a product line option is obtained, the user may carry out an action aimed at indicating the product line option for the product obtained. As an example, the user may write on the product packaging or apply a label thereto indicating the strength of the product. The packaging may be initially offered with a plurality of labels in the same packaging and the user may apply the label that corresponds to the product line option obtained after exposure to the stimulus.

The invention also provides a method of preparing a cosmetic product from a starting composition including an active ingredient, the activity of the starting composition being capable of being modified by exposure to a stimulus, at least two different degrees of activation of the active ingredient corresponding to two respective product line options for the product, which may be applicable as-is to the keratinous materials, the method comprising the steps consisting in:

• acquiring at least some information relating to the use of the product, for example the desired product line option and/or a result to be obtained with the product;

• generating, in particular automatically, as a function at least of said information, at least some information for adjustment of an energy source allowing the product to be exposed to the stimulus in order to obtain the corresponding desired product line option. Exposure of the starting composition to the stimulus may be a function of said adjustment of the energy source. The quantity of composition exposed at once to the stimulus may be more than 1 g.

After exposure to the stimulus, the product may be applied directly to the keratinous materials. The quantity of product exposed to the stimulus may correspond to that contained in the original packaging, as explained above.

The adjustment information may be output in a form that is directly understandable by the user.

This method may be carried out using the system described above.

The adjustment information may be generated by a computing means, which may comprise any electronic or digital means and which may constitute said second means.

Acquisition of information relating to use of the product may be carried out by means of an interface that may have any of the characteristics defined above.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the adjustment information may be generated independently of real-time information or information relating to the time elapsed since the last use, independently of a signal deriving from an environmental sensor, for example of UV, and/or independently of data received from a remote data transmitter.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the user informs the system of the desired final result. The system then deduces the degree of adjustment and generates the energy source control information. It may communicate this either to the user so that the energy source may be regulated by the user in accordance with that information, or to control means dedicated to controlling the energy source in order to activate the product to the correct degree. When it is the user who carries out the adjustment of the energy source, the user may activate the product to a degree corresponding to the proposed adjustment.

The system may be configured to allow a choice between various potential results proposed by the system. As an example, the system may propose several results via the interface, for example illustrated by diagrams, drawings, images, and/or simulations, and the user may choose one of those results.

The system may also be configured to interpret a wish expressed by the user.

As an example, the user may describe the desired result in terms of color, by describing either the color that is desired, or the change in color that is desired starting from the original color. The interface may then comprise a screen aiding that communication.

The system may also refer to results in a memory. The system may have an internal or external memory or a memory supplied via a network connection, for example an internet connection. Thus, the user may indicate that the desired result is the same as before. The system may also be configured to store the desired final results for several individuals in memory and to invite the user to indicate the target individual in order to carry out the same adjustment. In a particular circumstance, it is not the user who informs the system, but another individual, for example a member of the family, or an expert, for example a hair stylist, etc.

In exemplary embodiments, the system invites the user to fill out a

questionnaire, which may be illustrated by diagrams, photographs, or images. As an example, the system may invite information about hair quality. Thus, it may ask for the color (by showing color types, for example), the shape (by showing shape types, for example), or the length (by showing length types, for example). The interface may also allow the system to be informed about the porosity of the hair by asking questions about the behavior of the hair, for example by asking if the hair dries quickly, if the color holds for a long time, and/or if the ends are washed out, etc.

With skin, the system may ask for the color and/or heterogeneity. In the embodiments, the interface may also allow data to be input about the sensitivity and/or irritability of the skin, the history of the skin, or problems that have occurred, or whether there are any problems with allergies when applying cosmetics or in some other situation, such as a food-related situation.

The data entered into the interface may also relate to the user's behavior or environment; the system could, for example, ask for the frequency of washing and/or home location, etc.

The system may be configured to illustrate all of the potential final results that are accessible, in order to show the user possibilities that might not have come to mind.

Generation of the adjustment data and management of the interface may be carried out by on-board electronics, such as an on-board computer, or by remote means. At least a portion of the data processing may be carried out by a server, for example over a wired connection, or via a server linked to the internet.

Assemblies

The invention provides various assemblies comprising a system as defined above, without the energy source.

The invention also pertains to assemblies comprising the energy source, which may optionally be integrated into a packaging and dispenser device, as indicated above.

The invention also pertains to a system without a product reservoir, this being, for example, in the form of a removable cartridge. The system may also be offered to the user with the reservoir but not the product, this being introduced, for example, into the reservoir by the user. This may allow the system to be used in association with several different products. It may also, for example, allow the interface, the control means and also possibly the energy source to be used again with different products.

Packaging device

In other exemplary embodiments the invention provides a device for packaging a product for application to human keratinous materials, said packaging device containing a starting composition containing at least one active ingredient, the starting composition having activity that is sensitive to an energy stimulus, such that at least two product line options for the product may be obtained as a function of the degree of exposure of the starting composition to the stimulus. The device and/or the starting composition may include a colored indicator that is sensitive to the stimulus and that can inform the user about the product line option that has been obtained after exposure to the stimulus.

As an example, a colored compound sensitive to the concentration of a free active ingredient is present in the product in order to color the product differently as a function of its product line option. Thus, the user knows the strength of the product before it is used and there is less risk that the product line option obtained does not correspond to the result desired by the user. The colored compound acting as an indicator may be different from a compound intended to produce a permanent colorization of the keratinous materials. As an example, it may be a colored compound with low covering power that can readily be removed by washing.

Interface

The interface may be used to supply the system with information about what the user wishes and/or may be used by the user to inform the system about at least one characteristic of the user or the user's environment.

The interface may comprise a selector, for example a cursor, a knob, a keyboard, with keys or touch-sensitive, a touch screen, a sliding, rotary, toggle or multi-functional switch, and more generally any means allowing the user to select a product line option for the product from at least two possible product line options. The selector may operate jointly with a display or screen indicating the selection made.

The interface may form part of a packaging or dispenser device including the reservoir containing the product. In a variation, the interface belongs to a terminal such as a personal computer, a personal digital assistant, or a cellphone, separate from the packaging and dispenser device. The interface may also form part of a base to which the packaging and dispenser device may temporarily be coupled. The base may possibly include the energy source. The energy source may also be produced in the form of an appliance including the interface.

Where necessary, the terminal comprising the interface may act to generate the adjustment information.

The interface may be produced not only to allow information to be input, but also to disseminate the adjustment information. The interface may also include signaling means to disseminate information to the user, for example to display information relating to the product line option selected by the user or decided upon by the system, for example in the form of one or more alphanumeric characters, a bar graph, or a pictogram, and/or to disseminate the information by voice synthesis or by illuminating one or more lights. The display may, for example, be on the packaging and dispenser device, on the base or on the terminal above. The interface may comprise any type of screen or display, for example LCD, plasma, LED, OLED, etc.

The interface may be configured to allow continuous or incremental adjustment of at least one product characteristic.

The system may be configured to disseminate, for example visually, orally, and/or in a tactile manner, for example by displaying, at least some information informing the user about at least one property of the product line option selected or obtained. Other data

In addition to the data provided by the user by means of the user interface, the system may be configured to receive other data deriving, for example, from a clock, an external data transmitter, for example from meteorological data and/or deriving from at least one sensor that is sensitive to the system's environment, for example a UV radiation sensor, a humidity sensor, an atmospheric pressure sensor, a wind sensor, an atmospheric pollution sensor, a precipitation sensor, or a water hardness or a pH sensor.

The system may also be configured to receive data deriving from a sensor that can carry out a measurement on the user, for example on the skin, for example a pH sensor, a color sensor, a cutaneous microrelief sensor, a sebum sensor, or a hydration sensor.

This other data may be included in the computation of the stimulus to be exerted on the starting composition in order to satisfy the requirements of the user. Computation means

The invention may employ computation means that are capable of determining a degree of adjustment for the energy source necessary to obtain a desired final result and to translate the degree of adjustment into energy source control information. The computation means may be separate from the interface or may be present in the same appliance with the interface.

The computation means may comprise any processor capable of computing the degree of adjustment of the energy source from the available information. The term "processor" should be understood to mean any electronic or digital means capable of carrying out computations and/or comparisons, for example any microprocessor, microcontroller, microcomputer, or other programmable components and devices. Control means

The system may control the activation energy. As an example, the user may be supplied with a customized system comprising the interface and the energy source. This system may be in two parts or it may be integrated.

The system may comprise control means capable of transmitting data to the energy source, which data may be interpreted thereby, or it may even directly control the energy source. It may, for example, be a specialized electronic circuit comprising components that are capable of controlling a radiofrequency transmitter or a light source or a standard digital interface, e.g. for home automation, that is capable of communicating with the energy source by using a predefined protocol.

The system may be configured for energy feedback to allow for better energy control. Diagnostics

The starting composition may be associated with means for establishing a diagnosis aimed at facilitating data input. It may, for example, be a kit offered to the user with the composition and/or with the system, for example initially contained in the same pack.

A test may be carried out, for example with such a diagnostic kit. This test may be a measurement of color (of the skin, hair), a measurement of the heterogeneity of the color (of the skin, hair), a measurement of the sensitivity (of the skin, hair), a measurement of the porosity, the degree of hydration, perspiration, hirsuteness, a measurement of water hardness, etc. This test may provide the system with information, especially for the purpose of determining settings.

Measuring device

The system may include an electronic measuring device for measuring a characteristic of the user or the user's environment, color, moisture, microrelief, pH and/or amount of sebum, for example a device directly communicating its results to the above-mentioned computation means. The adjustment information may take the results of this measurement into account.

Generation of adjustment data

The system may be arranged so that, starting from the recorded and/or measured data, it is possible to determine a degree of activity necessary for obtaining the desired result. By way of example, the input data is entered by the user via the interface, as explained above. By way of example, the system expresses the amount of deactivated active ingredient that is to be released, Adjustment- If the product naturally contains free active ingredient, Af_ree, the degree of adjustment, Adjustment, is equal to:

Adjustment Active ingredient " Af_ree

Aactive ingredient is the quantity of active ingredient to be obtained.

Preferably, this calculation does not need to involve the user.

Starting from the amount of adjustment, the system may then deduce the energy that needs to be produced to obtain this release, which may be based on the quantity of deactivated active ingredient, the anticipated quantity of reactivated active ingredient, A justment, and the energy necessary to reactivate one unit (for example 1%) of deactivated active ingredient.

As an example, if a quantity of deactivated active ingredient Adjustment is to be released, and the energy to release 1% of deactivated active ingredient is Eunit, then the energy E to be produced is:

E Eunit Adjustment

However, it should be understood that the calculation may be based on a more complex function, in particular when Adjustment is fairly large, and approaches the total quantity of deactivated active ingredient that is contained in the product and that is available to be released. Eunit is then not a constant, but a function, especially of Adjustment, ^and may involve the quantity of re leasable active ingredient that is present.

The energy to be produced may also be deduced using a conversion table, for example pre-recorded or consulted by the system through a connection with a remote server via a network.

Adjustment of the stimulation energy may take various parameters into account. For a colorizing product, typical parameters are the original color of the hair, the uniformity of the color, or the aptitude of the hair to be colored. It is also possible to integrate other parameters such as ambient data, for example the outside temperature, secondary data, for example the fineness of the hair, or historical data, for example products that are already used.

Determination of the adjustment may also involve at least one criterion desired by the user. Thus, the user may specify the maximum duration of the treatment. This data allows the system to calculate the consequent release of the active ingredient or active ingredients, for example at least one colorizing agent, it being understood that the adjustment will not be the same if the user wants the treatment to last 10 minutes instead of 30 minutes, for example.

Similarly, the user could record whether or not such an instrument is available. As an example, the user could specify whether or not such a heating means is possessed, it being understood that the adjustment will be different depending on what energy source is available to the user.

The system may be arranged in order to determine whether the result desired by the user is accessible. This may depend on the result desired, the settings, and on the product available to the user.

The system may have information about the nature of the product that is to be adjusted. In a variation of the invention, the system automatically interrogates itself about the nature of the product that is to be adjusted.

In another variation, the system may direct the adjustment of several types of product. The system may be configured to acquire the information that it requires to carry out said adjustments. It may be connected to at least one remote database, for example via the internet.

The system may be provided with means for advising the user that the user's choice is or is not accessible and/or that the user's choice would be accomplished better by or requires another starting composition. Optionally, the system may be configured so as to be able to produce, find, or control said starting composition.

At least a portion of the system may be accessible before acquisition of the product by the future purchaser, for example at the point of sale, or via an internet site. Thus, the user may employ the system in order to obtain an initial idea of the suitability of the product having regard to the result desired. The system will inform the future purchaser that the product can or cannot produce the desired result. The system might possibly direct the future purchaser towards another product, if necessary.

If the system has an energy source, it is preferably arranged to automatically translate the computed adjustment energy into adjustment information. If the system uses an energy source that is not its own, it may have need of information about the source of energy that is to be used. The system may be configured to provide information about the energy source or energy sources available to the user in order to better deduce the adjustment information.

The system may be arranged to have in its internal memory information about the energy sources available on the market. It may automatically put itself in contact, for example automatically, with suppliers of energy sources, for example in order to keep up to date about the power level that can be employed and/or the safety rules to be complied with.

The system may have means for transposing the adjustment information calculated for one energy source to another type of energy source. The system may include an equivalence table between energy sources or have access to such a table. The system may express the energy information in various manners, for example by duration and intensity. For a microwave oven, this would be the heating time and degree of adjustment. It may also dispense information about temperature, for example.

The system may also inform the user about the mode of application, the recommended maximum period of use, or the minimum resting time before use.

When the system does not control the activation of energy, the user may have available a source that is recognized by the system. The system may then supply information about the adjustment energy, and the user may employ this information to adjust the energy source. Optionally, the user may use a device for measuring the energy dispensed. This measurement device informs the user and/or the system about the energy dispensed, or that the adjustment has been completed. As an example, this measuring device may include a colored indicator, for example present on the packaging of the product or in the product.

The system might not be in a position to control the activation of energy and the user might have available an energy source that is not recognized by the system. Under such circumstances, the system may be configured to ensure that the energy source is used properly and the desired product line option is obtained. The system may include a device for measuring the energy dispensed, and may act accordingly.

The system may have means for feeding back information, either about the final result, or the degree to which the effective active ingredient has been released, in order to adjust itself and refine its computations for subsequent uses. In particular, if the effective result is different from the desired result, the system may determine an adjustment that approaches the desired result when applied a second time.

The system may optionally be arranged so that the user is informed of the need to reapply the product or to revisit activation, for example if it detects that the release of the deactivated active ingredient does not correspond to the value set.

Energy source

As mentioned above, the invention adds energy by using an energy source, also termed an energy dispenser, the energy being heat, light, visible or otherwise, for example UV or IR, radio frequency, for example microwaves, or ultrasound, for example.

The energy may be supplied without percolating a gas or hot liquid through the starting composition. The power consumed by the source producing the stimulus, especially with a thermal or a light stimulus, may be more than 5 W, 10 W, 25 W, 40 W, 60 W, 75 W, 100 W, 500 W, 750 W or 1000 W. The power may be greater than 3000 W.

The conditions for delivering the energy may be predetermined, especially the power level and the delivery period. This information may be stored in a memory of an electronic device associated with the energy source, for example in the form of a conversion table for the energy conditions and results.

The energy source may optionally be specific to the system.

For example, it may be an energy source that is routinely available in a dwelling, such as a microwave oven, a hot plate or a light bulb. It may also be a specific energy source.

The system may either control the energy source or communicate to a user the conditions of use for the source. Preferably, when the source is specific, the system controls the source, with no intervention by the user.

It is also possible to leave it up to an operator or the individual receiving the stimulus to set the conditions for energy delivery.

The adjustment information is, for example, expressed in the utilization language of the source. The adjustment information may mention several potentially usable sources and the adjustment to be made for each of them. Examples are the time of use (in seconds, or minutes), or the energy (in Joules). It may be expressed in several ways. Examples are:

• 10 seconds heating for a 900 W microwave oven;

• 7 seconds heating for a 1300 W microwave oven, etc.

The user then selects the correct heating time as a function of the appliance available.

The system may be provided with means for transcribing the adjustment energy into adjustment energy information given to the user so that the product can be adjusted when the information is not used by the system to control the adjustment automatically. The adjustment information may be transmitted to the user via the above-mentioned interface. As an example, the adjustment energy information is an information pair:

• information about an appliance, for example a 1000 W lamp, or a 1000 W microwave oven; and

• information about the use of that appliance, for example a time when placed at a given distance, or a given heating time.

In the embodiments of the invention, the same energy source is used to exert a stimulus on different starting compositions. The energy source may thus be provided with a recognition device to recognize the composition that is to receive the stimulus. Thus, depending on the composition to be treated, the energy source may be based on a conversion table or a computational function.

The recognition device may read information about a packaging device associated with the composition to be submitted to a stimulus, for example by means of an electronic device comprising, for example, a mechanical or electrical sensor, a barcode reader, an electrical switch, or an RFID chip reader. An identifier may provide information about the product line option for the product that is to be subjected to the stimulus.

The reactivation energy may be a linear function of the quantity of active ingredient to be reactivated, over at least a portion thereof. The computation may also be based on a more complex function, especially when the quantity to be reactivated is fairly large, and approaches, for example, the total quantity of releasable deactivated active ingredient contained in the product.

As mentioned above, the energy source may optionally be configured for energy feedback to allow for better energy control.

The energy source need not come into contact with the starting composition, which may remain in its original packaging during exposure to the stimulus.

Active ingredient

The active ingredient may be contained in the reservoir in the inactive state or in the slightly active state and exposure to the stimulus increases its activity. In a variation, the active ingredient may be contained in the reservoir in the active state and exposure to the stimulus reduces its activity. In the starting composition, the active ingredient may include a grafted photolabile function rendering it inactive. The starting composition may include an encapsulated ingredient, the stimulus rupturing the encapsulation to release the active ingredient. Deactivated and reactivatable active ingredient

The starting composition may include a deactivated and reactivatable active ingredient. The term "deactivated and reactivatable active ingredient" has two possible meanings:

• Firstly, it may be an inactive or only slightly active compound capable of being transformed chemically under the effect of energy, to produce an active compound. As an example, a bond of the compound may be broken to release the active ingredient. Thus, the compound may be a molecule with little or no color, giving a colored compound under the effect of energy, in particular light.

The reactive compound may, for example, be a molecule with no reducing activity giving a reducing compound under the effect of energy, in particular light. It may then react to produce a color, for example with a colorizing oxidizing agent.

It is also possible for rupture of the bond to release an intermediate compound that is capable of being transformed into an active ingredient, either naturally or via a reaction with a third compound. Thus, the reactive compound may be a compound with little or no color, giving a colorless compound under the effect of energy, in particular light which, under the action of oxygen, for example, is transformed into a colored compound.

• Secondly, it may be an inactive or very slightly active compound that is capable of being transformed under the effect of energy, to provide an active compound. The compound may, for example, comprise a material that degrades or changes state under the action of incident energy, for example light or thermal, to release the active ingredient.

Thus, the compound may comprise a meltable shell containing an active ingredient, for example a colorizing agent, for example a dye. The compound is not active until the shell has melted, for example under the effect of incident IR-rich light.

In the embodiments of the invention, without the application of energy, the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient does not have any notable activity or has weak activity, for example 20% or less of its nominal activity.

In certain exemplary embodiments of the invention, it is possible for the reactivation transformation of the active ingredient to continue once the energy source has been extinguished.

The method for the invention may include one or more steps aimed at limiting the reactivation of the reactivatable deactivated active ingredient, for example by using a cooling system.

Before exposure to the stimulus, the active ingredient may be deactivated and inactive, either because it is under conditions such that it is inaccessible to the treated surface, for example the skin or hair, or because it has a function that prevents it from being active.

In the first case, the active ingredient may include means that prevent it from being able to come into contact with the treated surface or, more precisely, from coming into contact with the zones of the skin or hair requiring its action. These means may be encapsulation or a function. In the second case, the active ingredient may come into contact with keratinous materials, in particular the skin or the hair, but its action is inhibited by the function.

The active ingredient may also be provided with a function that prevents it from coming into contact with the skin or the hair in addition to a function that prevents it from becoming active.

In order to prevent the active ingredient from being available for the skin or hair by coating it, encapsulating it or compartmentalizing it, coating, encapsulation or compartmentalization systems may be used employing a hot melt material or systems for coating, encapsulation or compartmentalization of a material that is degradable under the effect of light radiation, especially by applying the technology described in the article "Photocleavable Microcapsules Built from Photoreactive Nanospheres", Xiaofeng Yuan, Karl Fischer, and Wolfgang Schartl, LANGMUIR, Vol 21, 2005, pp 9374 - 9380.

In particular, the encapsulation material may comprise nanoparticles capable of undergoing photochemical inter-particle cross-linking. They may, for example, be nanoparticles of polyorganosiloxane functionalized with chlorobenzyl with a dimension of 20 nm [nanometer] and a polydispersity of less than 15% as described in the above-mentioned article "Photocleavable Microcapsules Built from Photoreactive Nanospheres".

It may be possible to use systems for coating or encapsulation with friable material capable of being fractured by mechanical energy such as sound or ultrasound, for example.

Application US 2009/0180967 describes particles suitable for dispersing in an aqueous solution to encapsulate a composition that is capable of being released by being exposed to ultrasound. The teaching of that application may be applied to encapsulating the active ingredient.

As the compound reactive to the stimulus, it is also possible to use a compound that is introduced in the insoluble form and that, under the action of energy, for example thermal energy, melts and/or dissolves in the composition, and then acts on the treated surface. Particularly advantageous active ingredients are those that melt in the 40°C - 150°C range and that are initially present in the form of particles. Melting brought about by temperature has the effect of causing the particles to melt, which can then be incorporated into the remainder of the composition. Thus, the starting composition may include a compound that, under the action of a thermal stimulus, passes into solution to a greater or lesser extent. In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the starting composition includes a solid compound that is not entirely dissolved in the product since it is introduced in the particulate form into the composition while cold, for example. In order to produce several product line options for the product, it is heated to a greater or lesser extent, which means that said compound dissolves to a greater or lesser extent. Once in solution, the compound stays in solution.

It is also possible to use other systems to prevent the active ingredient from being available for the keratinous materials, in particular for the skin or the hair. As an example, a composition containing the active ingredient and a solvent rendering the active ingredient insoluble in the composition may be used. If the solvent is volatile, it is possible to add heat to cause the solvent to evaporate and to render the active ingredient soluble. Depending on the amount of heat added, several different product line options for the product are then obtained.

The active ingredient may also be provided with a function that prevents it from diffusing into the keratinous materials, in particular the skin or hair, for example a function rendering the hydrophilic or hydrophobic nature of the active ingredient incompatible with its diffusion.

As an example, at least one photosensitive or thermosensitive polymer is used that is capable of binding to the active ingredient, for example by ionic bonding, said polymer having a molar mass that is poorly compatible with diffusion into the skin, the mucous membranes, or the hair, that constrains the active ingredient from diffusing, for example a molar mass of more than 1000 g/mol [grams per mole]. Destruction or modification of the polymer, for example selected from polyesters, by adding energy releases the active ingredient, which can then penetrate into the keratinous materials, in particular the hair or skin.

The active ingredient may also be provided with a relatively heavy function, for example with a molecular weight of more than 200 g/mol, such as a sugar, for example, or a hydrocarbon chain.

The deactivated reactivatable active ingredient present in the starting composition may be provided with a function that removes its active ingredient power. As an example, a dye may be provided with a function that removes its color.

Removal of the function by an energetic route then allows the color to return.

A peeling active ingredient may be provided with a function that removes its acidic power. Adding heat or light removes that function, and its acidic power returns.

Examples that may be mentioned of functions that are removable by adding energy and that are useful in limiting the function of the active ingredient or removing its active ingredient power are those described in the article: "Controlled release of volatiles under mild reaction conditions: From Nature to Every Day Products" by A. Herman, Angewandte Chemie 2007, 46, 5836-5863, or the article by V. N.

R. Pillai, published in Synthesis 1980, 1 - 26; or in the article by C. G. Bochet, J. published in Chem. Soc. Perkin. Trans. 1 2002, 125 - 142; or in the article by A. P. Pelliccioli, J. Wirz, published in Photochem. Photobiol. Sci. 2002, 1, 441 - 458.

They are, for example, based on photo fragmentations, involving type II Norrish rearrangements, photolysis of nitroso compounds, or photoisomerization.

The following may also be mentioned: Thermo labile functions:

Sugars that are grafted to the active ingredient if it has an aldehyde function. The sugar forms a cyclic acetal function, releasable by heat, especially at about 50°C-100°C.

An acid or a carbonate that is grafted to the active ingredient if it has an amine or alcohol function. The acid forms an ester or an amide, releasable by heat.

Photolabile functions

It is possible to use those carrying a nitrogen-containing group, such as orthonitrosobenzyl functions. On reacting by photo isomerization, they release the active ingredient, leaving a carboxylic acid or ketone function after reaction.

It is also possible to use photolabile functions without a nitrogen-containing group such as 3', 5' dimethoxybenzoin (DMB), which is suitable for forming a photolabile carbamate. The active ingredient is released, leaving an amine function after reaction. Reference may be made to the article "Photochemical Deprotection of 3', 5' - Dimethoxy benzoin (DMB). Carbamates Derived from Secondary Amines", by M. C. Pirrung et al, Tetrahedron Letters, Vol 36, No 33; pp 5883-5884, 1995 Elsevier Science, Ltd, Pergamon.

Use of inhibitors

In the embodiments of the invention, the starting composition comprises an inhibitor of an active ingredient, which inhibitor is destroyed by the action of a stimulus. Thus, destruction of the inhibitor is employed to change the activity of the composition. In other exemplary embodiments of the invention, the starting composition contains the active ingredient, an active ingredient inhibitor and an inhibitor antagonist, which constitutes the compound that is reactive to a stimulus.

Release of the antagonist under the effect of the stimulus is exploited in order to allow the active ingredient to exert its action. Second object

In accordance with these second exemplary embodiments the invention may be used, inter alia, to create a color with a natural appearance on human keratinous materials, for example the skin or the hair.

Other exemplary embodiments of the invention thus provide a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, in which:

^• a cosmetic composition including a reactive compound that is capable of reacting under the effect of an energy stimulus is applied to a surface of said keratinous materials to allow the production of a color on said surface;

^• said composition is exposed to an energy source, such that the incidence of the energy originating from the source on the composition is non-uniform, resulting in a variation in the exposure causing a variation in the color obtained, which is perceptible to the naked eye.

The energy stimulus may be as described above, i.e. light, thermal, or radio frequency.

The energy source may be an artificial light source, for example a point or diffuse source, depending on the result desired.

The invention facilitates obtaining color effects having a natural appearance. The invention also opens the way to obtaining results that are unknown in the world of cosmetics.

For a reactive compound having a color that increases with the energy of the stimulation, it is, for example, selected from compounds derived from color reactions such as: oxidation of diaminoaryl, aminohydroxyaryl, certain monoaminoaryl oxidation precursors, oxidation of polyphenols or other di- or tri- or multi- hydrobenzenes or mono- or di- or tri- or polyhydroxyaryls (where "aryl" may be a heterocycle), compounds requiring a catalyst to become colored and used in association with a catalyst the release of which is rendered possible by stimulation, in particular a polyphenol with an encapsulated metallic catalyst.

For a reactive compound having a color that reduces with an increase in stimulation, this is, for example, selected from compounds using an inhibitor the release of which is sensitive to the stimulation, such as a combination of an aminophenol and an acidic agent the release of which is rendered possible by stimulation, or a combination of a compound that oxidizes in air, such as

paradiaminobenzene, and a reducing agent the release of which is rendered possible by energetic stimulation. For a reactive compound comprising a photosensitive dye, this is, for example, selected from compounds the colored form of which is blocked by a photolabile function, those wherein one form is blocked by a photolabile function and which, once unblocked, change to produce a colored compound, and

photochromes, preferably thermally stable.

The test for determining whether a photodevelopable agent is thermally stable is as follows. The agent to be tested, initially with color Ei in the non-developed state, is subjected to irradiation with UV radiation for 1 minute at 1 J/cm² [Joules per square centimeter], then its final color E_f is determined using a spectrocolorimeter, for example a MINOLTA CM 2002 type instrument (d/8, SCI, D65, 2° observer); the following color space is obtained:

in the CIE Lab system, which corresponds to being fully developed. Next, said compound is left in complete darkness for 60 minutes at 25°C, then its color E_r is determined again using the above method. When the new value of ΔΕί_ιΓ is at least equal to 50% of the value of ΔΕ^ corresponding to being fully developed, the compound is considered to be thermally stable.

It may also be a compound that creates a color by reacting with the skin, such as a self-tanning agent, reactivity depending on the degree of exposure to stimulus. As an example, only the compound exposed to the stimulus reacts with the skin to produce a color such as a self-tanning agent.

The reactive compound may thus comprise a self-tanning agent, for example

DHA bonded by its hydroxy 1 or carbonyl function to a photolabile group, or DHA encapsulated by a compound that is sensitive to stimulation due to the energy source.

The reactive compound may involve at least one other compound in order to produce a color. The reactive compound then need not be colored, and need not react directly with the skin or hair to produce a color. It may, for example, be a first compound that, as a function of its activation by the energy stimulus, is capable of acting in one or other manners on a second compound to produce a color or to change the color of said second compound. It may also be a first compound that is capable, as a function of its activation by the light stimulus, of allowing a second colored compound to bind or not to bind to the keratinous materials. Thus, the expression "to allow the production of a color on said surface" should not be construed in a limited sense and encompasses various reaction pathways capable of producing a color, directly or indirectly, and involving the reactive compound being exposed to an energy stimulus.

The variation in the angle of incidence of the energy, especially light, emanating from the energy source towards the composition, may in particular be due to positioning of the source relative to the composition as well as to the shape of the surface carrying the composition.

The angle of incidence may, for example, vary at two points of the

composition by at least 30°, or even by at least 60°, or even more. A relatively large variation in the angle of incidence produces a greater degree of gradation.

The variation in the degree of exposure to the energy stimulus may also be due to the presence of clothing or hair in the path of the stimulus.

Certain regions of the composition might not be exposed directly to the energy, especially light energy, emitted by the stimulus, while others are. In the limit, certain regions carrying the composition might not receive any energy from the energy source. Certain regions of the composition might receive energy deriving from the energy source substantially at a normal incidence.

The surface carrying the composition may in particular be defined by the skin of limbs such as the arms and legs, or the skin of the chest, the back, the face or the hands. The surface carrying the composition may also be defined by the hair or other macroscopic keratinous materials.

Exposure to energy, in particular light, originating from the energy source, may occur while the individual coated in the composition stays still or, in a variation, while that individual moves relative to the energy source. The advantage of a relative movement is that it reproduces real life movement. On the beach, the individual moves (changes the angle of exposure) and the sun moves. This all produces a result that is not the same as if everything were static.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the individual receiving the treatment is coated with the composition on the front and back of the body, one side is exposed while that individual is lying down, for example, then the other side is exposed.

Various reactive compounds may be used in the composition with a view to obtaining variable color effects.

The energy source is, for example, a light source emitting UV radiation, in particular UVA.

The reactive compound may include a dye or a photosensitive pigment.

The reactive compound has, for example, a color that increases with the stimulation energy or, in a variation, a color that diminishes with the increase in stimulation. When the stimulus is a light stimulus, the change in color of the compound in the absence of stimulation under the effect of natural exposure is sufficiently slow for the color obtained with the method of the invention to be observable during the desired time period, for example several hours. If necessary, a photoprotective composition or fixing composition is applied to the stimulus-sensitive composition to protect it from natural activation or to block its reactivity and fix it in the state it attains by reacting therewith.

The reactive compound is, for example, a photosensitive compound and the photoprotective compound contains one or more screens that absorb radiation to which said compound is sensitive, for example by absorbing more than 50%, preferably more than 80%, or even 95% or 99% for a deposit thickness of 200 nm to 1 mm [millimeter], preferably 1 μιη [micrometer] to 100 μιη. This enables the sensitivity of the composition to natural light to be reduced. In a variation, a fixing composition is applied that inhibits the sensitivity of the compound to a stimulus or renders it inactive, by reacting therewith.

The reactive compound may comprise a self-tanning agent. Said self-tanning agent may have an activity linked to exposure to an energy stimulus. As an example, the compound comprises a self-tanning function linked to an inhibiting function that reacts to the stimulus, and may optionally authorize the action of the self-tanning function, depending on its state.

After the exposure step, the method of the invention may comprise applying a second composition that forms a screen against the energy stimulus. The method may also comprise, after the exposure step, application of a second composition inhibiting a transformation of the reactive compound under the effect of the stimulus.

The method may include a step of rinsing the treated surface after exposure to the stimulus, especially in order to eliminate the reactive compound that has not reacted to the stimulus.

The treated surface may be a surface of the skin and the treatment may seek to create a natural tan effect.

The treated surface may be a surface of the hair and the treatment may be intended to create a natural bleaching effect.

The cosmetic composition may be applied using a variety of means, in particular by spraying.

Exposure to the energy stimulus, especially to light from the light source, may be carried out without masking the composition.

The reactive compound is, for example, a deactivated and reactivatable active ingredient, as described above in the section "deactivated and reactivable active ingredient".

Without energy being applied, the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient is not activated or only slightly activated during the whole application period. As an example, if application takes 15 minutes before rinsing or eliminating the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient, the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient preferably does not change by more than 20% of the nominal transformation.

This applies, for example, with reactivation that occurs via release of a catalyst or mediator. Thus, by way of example, if the reactivation releases an oxidation catalyst such as a metallic salt, even if the source of activation is stopped, the catalyst continues to act. The advantage is that the reactivation occurs at the level of the applied energy, since with a low (or high) energy, little (or much) catalyst is reactivated, and the final reactivation is low (or high).

The method of the invention may include one or more steps aimed at limiting reactivation of the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient, for example by using a system limiting propagation of light, or a cooling system. As an example, the energy source may be a source of light provided with an optical system causing the light to converge or diverge, in order to render the variation in the incidence on the composition greater or, in contrast, smaller.

The energy source is preferably artificial, but the method may employ ambient light, for example after passing through at least one optical system. The optical system is intended to focus or diffuse the energy to recreate illumination that resembles natural light, for example, which is formed by parallel rays.

The active ingredient may have activity that persists over time, such as active ingredients with optical activity, for example dyes, brilliantines, or bleaching agents. It may then be advantageous to select the active ingredient such that if it has not been activated, the active ingredient is no longer visible when the method is completed, and if it has been activated, the active ingredient is visible when the method is completed. Thus, the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient can be used in a method including a rinsing step, the portion of the deactivated reactivatable active ingredient that has undergone exposure to the stimulus deriving from the energy source resisting rinsing, and the portion of the deactivated active ingredient that has not been exposed to the stimulus being eliminated on rinsing.

Before exposure to the stimulus, the active ingredient may be deactivated and inactive, as described above.

In the embodiments of the invention, the composition includes, as a reactive compound, an inhibitor of an active ingredient, which inhibitor is destroyed under the action of the stimulus. Thus, the destruction of the inhibitor is exploited in order to change the activity of the composition. In other exemplary embodiments of the invention, the composition contains the active ingredient, an active ingredient inhibitor and an inhibitor antagonist, which constitutes the reactive compound. Release of the antagonist under the effect of a stimulus is exploited to allow the active ingredient to exert its action.

As mentioned above, the invention employs adding energy, as defined above in the section "energy source".

The treatment system including the energy source may be movable. The system is then advantageously provided with means for modifying the distance between the source and the surface to be treated or, knowing the distance, for adjusting the exposure time or the power of the source.

The treatment system may include a fixed energy source, for example installed in a cabin in which at least a portion of the individual to be treated is placed.

The energy is advantageously delivered in a directional manner.

The treatment system may include means for analyzing the skin, ambient conditions, the user's wishes, or previous or planned use, in order to optimize the energy supply conditions. These various elements may be integrated into an expert system in order to manage the link between needs and the exposure to the stimulus better. Depending on the situation, the expert system may be tasked with optimizing one or the other of these elements or with finding an equilibrium. In order to carry out this operation, the weighting of each element must be incorporated.

The first and second objects of the invention can be better understood from the following detailed description of non-limiting examples of implementations thereof, and of a study of the accompanying drawings in which:

• Figures 1 to 3 are block diagrams illustrating the steps carried out in methods in accordance with the first object of the invention;

• Figure 4 is an example of a nomogram;

· Figure 5 is an example a table;

• Figures 6 to 8 represent examples of systems in a diagrammatic manner;

• Figure 9 illustrates the possibility for the system to exchange data with a remote server,

• Figures 10 to 13 illustrate different configurations of systems of the invention;

• Figures 14 to 16 illustrate examples of the assembly for the first object of the invention; and

• Figures 17 and 18 illustrate embodiments of the invention in its second object.

In the example of Figure 1 , the user employs a table 5 or a nomogram 6 to determine the adjustment to be carried out. In step 11, the user reads the adjustment to be made from the nomogram, for example as illustrated in Figure 4. The nomogram may include several curves CI, C2, etc., providing the adjustment to be made for the respective source employed, SI, S2, etc. After reading the nomogram or the table of step 11, the user may then make any adjustments to the energy source in step 30, then after exposure to the stimulus in step 40, the product is used in step 50.

In the example of Figure 5, the table relates to the environment of the user, for example the hardness of the water. Reading the table provides the adjustment to be made in order to obtain a product line option for the product suitable for the hardness encountered.

In a variation, the starting composition is offered with an explanatory note indicating action to be taken to change the product line option. The composition may be offered with an explanation 600 on a label stuck to a bottle 601, as illustrated in Figure 14, shown on a box 603, as illustrated in Figure 15, or on a note 605, as illustrated in Figure 16.

As an example, the explanation 600 may include an indication about how the composition may be used with no prior heating with soft water and how it must be heated in a water bath for a given period in order to change its properties if the composition is to be used with hard water, containing a great deal of lime.

Under such circumstances, steps 10, 20 and 30 may be replaced by a single step 10' for selecting the product line option.

The packaging may, if necessary, include a diagnostic test 608 as described above, as illustrated in Figure 15.

The packaging may, if appropriate, include a conversion table that serves, on the basis of one or more entries, to allow the treatment conditions to be determined.

As an example, the conversion table includes two entries such as the property of the hair and the hardness of the water so that the treatment conditions can be deduced therefrom such that the cleaner the hair, the lower the concentration of washing agent in the product, and the harder the water, the higher the concentration of washing agent in the product.

The system 1 may be more complex and include an interface 100 and a computer 200, as illustrated in Figure 6.

The computer and the interface may belong to an appliance for use for other functions, such as a portable computer, or may be specific to the invention.

In the example of Figure 6, the user enters the data into the interface and can implement the method illustrated in Figure 2. Inputting the data (which corresponds to step 10) may be done in several ways, for example by responses to a questionnaire, or by positioning a system of cursors or wheels. Data input may be accomplished by carrying out one or more diagnostic tests. As an example, the user's hair may be brought into contact with a test product or a measuring device to deduce therefrom its color, or its fineness, or a device may be used for measuring the hardness of the water.

In step 20, the system then delivers indications for adjusting the energy source, then in step 30 the user makes the adjustment and exposes the starting composition to the stimulus in step 40. After exposure to the stimulus, in step 50, the user may apply the product that corresponds to the desired product line option.

If necessary, the system 1 may include or receive data from a sensor 110, for example a sensor for taking a measurement of the user or the environment.

The system 1 illustrated in Figure 7 incorporates a control means 300 for the energy source 400, which, however, is external to the system 1. It may, for example, be an oven that is also used for cooking. However, the energy source 400 may receive information from the control means 300, for example the energy level and the operating period. Thus, the user needs only to confirm startup of the stimulus, pre-set by the system.

The system of Figure 7 may be used to implement the method of Figure 3. After inputting the data in step 10, the system determines the adjustment in step 21, then in step 31 controls the energy source. The product obtained may be used in step 50.

In the example of Figure 8, the stimulus 400 is specific to the system 1 and integrated therewith.

The system 1 may function autonomously or, as illustrated in Figure 9, it may avail itself of a remote server 500. Communication may, for example, be via an intranet, internet, or by a telephone network.

Figure 10 shows the possibility of using a terminal 1 such as a computer to determine the adjustment data concerning a product that is, for example, offered to the consumer in packaging 2 that is compatible with placing it in a microwave oven.

As illustrated in Figure 11 , the product may also be packed in a packaging and dispenser device 2 that integrates a first portion la of the system 1, that is capable of exchanging information with a second portion lb of the system, for example via a wireless link. The first portion la includes the energy source, for example. The second portion may include the interface and the computing means.

Figure 12 shows a configuration similar to that of Figure 11, the second portion lb of the system being able to exchange information with a remote server 500. Figure 14 illustrates the possibility of producing the energy source in a form that is integrated into a specific appliance 4 that may also include the interface and the computing means. The starting composition is, for example, contained in packaging 2 that may be separate from said appliance.

The following two examples illustrate the first object of the invention.

Example 1

A conditioner formula containing an emulsion base was produced.

Silicones:

Poloxamer 407 (Dow Corning) 0.25 g

Trideceth -10 (Wacker) 4 g

Cationic surfactants

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 1.5 g

Hydrotriticum WQ (Croda) 0.2 g

Demineralized water qs 89.75 g

A powder formed by a cationic surface and a fatty alcohol in grains was added. Its composition was:

Fatty alcohol

Myristic alcohol (Lanette 14 from Cognis) 3.5 g

Cationic surfactant

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 4.5 g

Once manufactured, the product was packaged into 200 mL capacity bottles.

A system was produced comprising a user interface that could be used to provide information on the level of care required C, for example out of 100, on the condition of the hair E (for example 100 for very healthy hair and 0 for very damaged hair).

The level of the active ingredient was extracted using the formula:

Aadjustment⁼ 8/100 X (C-E)

where Aadjustment takes the value zero if the computation gives a negative value.

Next, the adjustment energy information was calculated; for example, for a microwave oven at a power of 900 W, the operating time was given by T= Aadjustment ^x 4 (in seconds).

The system informed the user of the adjustment to be made to the microwave oven. The user interrogated the system, placed the product in the microwave oven, and adjusted it to the time T given by the system. Next, the user allowed the product to cool and could use it for several weeks as a conditioner. Example 2

A colorizing product was produced.

Silicones:

Poloxamer 407 (Dow Corning) 0.25 g

Trideceth -10 (Wacker) 4 g

Cationic surfactants

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 1.5 g

Hydrotriticum WQ (Croda) 0.2 g

Oxidation dye coupling agent:

Resorcinol 0.8 g

Demineralized water qs 89.75 g

A mixture was produced formed by the cationic surfactant, fatty alcohol, and an oxidation dye base. After mixing at 50°C, it was allowed to cool and the substance was milled into grains approximately 0.5 mm to 2 mm in diameter.

Its composition was:

Fatty alcohol

Myristic alcohol (Lanette 14 from Cognis) 3 g

Cationic surfactant

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 4 g

Oxidation dye base:

Paraphenylene diamine 1 g

Once manufactured, the product was packed under inert gas into 200 mL capacity bottles.

A system was produced comprising a user interface that provided information about the level of dye required C, for example out of 100, on the initial shade of the hair N (for example 100 for a white hair and 0 for a dark hair).

The level of the active ingredient was extracted using the formula:

where Aadjustment takes the value zero if the computation gives a negative value. Next, the adjustment energy information was calculated; for example, for a microwave oven at a power of 900 W, the operating time was given by T= Adjustment ^x 5 (in seconds).

The system informed the user of the adjustment to be made to the microwave oven.

The user interrogated the system, placed the product in the microwave oven and adjusted it to the time T given by the system. Next, the user allowed the product to cool for 2 minutes.

Next, the product formed was mixed with 30 volume hydrogen peroxide. The product was then used by applying it to the hair.

The next four examples illustrate the second object of the invention.

Example 3

The composition of the invention was produced extemporaneously by combining two initial compositions:

^• The first composition was formed by: (% by weight):

^• 1% of 5,6 dihydroxyindole;

^• 30% of ethanol;

- 69% of water.

It was produced in the absence of air and kept in this form until use.

In addition, manganese acetate was encapsulated in a cetyl

trimethylammonium cationic surfactant (10 g of surfactant encapsulated 0.5 g of manganese acetate). The capsules were milled to submiUimetric dimensions in 20 g of water, to form the second composition.

At the moment of use, the two compositions were mixed. The resulting composition was applied to the user.

The user lay down with one side up and then the other side up, as illustrated in Figures 17 and 18, and each time the individual was irradiated in a manner that reactivated the active ingredient.

Irradiation was produced by an IR lamp such as that used by hairdressers to dry hair, directed towards the user. It was placed 50 cm above the user and placed on a system that allowed it to move to and fro on a horizontal rail, along the length of the individual (from head to toe). Its movement rate was 1 cm per second.

A color effect was obtained at locations exposed to irradiation and the final appearance was very close to that obtained with a natural tan. Example 4

A composition as described in Example 1 was applied to white hair.

The locks which had had the most contact with the irradiation were more colored than the others and the whole had different colors, giving a natural appearance.

Example 5

The composition was produced extemporaneously by combining two initial compositions: the first composition was formed by stabilized 30 volume hydrogen peroxide. Its pH was 6.

In addition, calcium hydroxide was encapsulated in a cetyl

trimethylammonium cationic surfactant (40 g of surfactant encapsulated 4 g of calcium hydroxide). The capsules were ground to submillimetric dimensions in 60 g of water, to form the second initial composition.

At the moment of use, the two compositions were mixed. The resulting composition was mixed extemporaneously and applied to the user.

The resulting composition was applied to the whole head of hair. Next, irradiation was carried out for 40 minutes to activate the highlights.

This irradiation was produced using an IR lamp from Climazon, as used by hair stylists to dry hair, directed towards the user. It was placed 50 cm above and diagonally to the user and mounted on a system enabling it to turn about the individual's hair. Its rate of movement was 1 cm per second. Every 5 minutes, the stylist moved the locks a little.

A color effect was obtained in regions exposed to irradiation and a final appearance was obtained that was very close to that which would be obtained naturally in the sun.

Example 6

The composition of the invention was produced extemporaneously by combining three initial compositions: the first composition was formed by stabilized 30 volume hydrogen peroxide. Its pH was 6.

In addition, calcium thioglycolate was encapsulated in a cetyl

trimethylammonium cationic surfactant (40 g of surfactant encapsulated 4 g of calcium thioglycolate). The capsules were milled to submillimetric dimensions in 60 g of water, to form the second initial composition.

At the moment of use, the two initial compositions were mixed. Next, 10 g of 20% ammonia was added, constituting the third initial composition.

The resulting composition was mixed extemporaneously and applied to the user.

This irradiation was produced using an IR lamp from Climazon, as used by hair stylists to dry hair, directed towards the user. It was placed 50 cm above and diagonally to the user and mounted on a system which meant that it could turn about the individual's hair. Its rate of movement was 1 cm per second. Every 5 minutes, the stylist moved the locks a little.

An original color effect was obtained wherein the regions exposed to irradiation were the least bleached.

The invention is not limited to the examples described above.

The expression "comprising a" should be construed as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" unless otherwise indicated.

Claims

1. A method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials starting with a starting composition including an active ingredient of activity that can be modified by exposure to a stimulus, the method comprising:

• selecting a product line option for the product from at least two product line options for the product corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a product line option for the product otherwise than on the basis of information deriving from a sensor for a physical parameter of the environment of the user, a clock signal or data deriving from an external transmitter;

• exposing the starting composition to the stimulus to obtain the product line option selected or determined thereby; and

• applying the composition to the keratinous materials as-is after exposure to the stimulus.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the product line option is selected by the user.

3. A method according to claim 1 , wherein the product line option is determined from at least one measurement of a physical parameter of the user.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the quantity of

composition exposed to the stimulus at one time is more than 1 g.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the user adjusts an energy source producing the stimulus on the basis of at least some information contained in an item of packaging for the composition or transmitted via a network, in particular the internet.

6. A method according to claim 5, wherein the adjustment information is read from a nomogram or a table.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising automatic

determination of the adjustment to an energy source producing the stimulus.

A method according to claim 7, wherein the automatic determination is carried out on the basis of acquiring at least some information relating to the use of the product and/or to a result to be achieved with the product.

A system for applying a cosmetic or dermato logical product, comprising:

• a reservoir containing a starting composition including an active ingredient, the activity being capable of being modified by exposure to a stimulus, at least two different degrees of activation of the starting composition respectively producing two product line options for the product, said product line options being applicable as-is to the keratinous materials;

• first means comprising a user interface (100) allowing the user to input at least some information linked to the use of the product; and

• second means to generate, as a function of at least the information input by the user, at least some data for adjustment to an energy source, allowing the activity of a quantity of product, in particular more than 1 g, to be modified in order to obtain a product line option corresponding to said information input by the user.

A system according to claim 9, wherein the reservoir is provided with a removable shutting means, especially a hinged, screwed, or snap fitted cap, a flap, especially overmolded or with a resilient member distinct from the shutting member, a dispenser system suitable for being actuated by the user, and/or a metering system, in particular employing a pump.

A system according to claim 9 or claim 10, wherein the first means comprises a sensor (150) for at least one physical characteristic of the user or the user's environment.

A system according to any one of claims 9 to 11, wherein the interface comprises a signaling means for indicating to the user the adjustment to be made to the energy source to expose said quantity of product to the stimulus and to change its activity.

A system according to any one of claims 9 to 12, comprising means (300) for controlling the energy source (400) as a function of the product line option to be obtained.

14. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 13, wherein the active ingredient is contained in the inactive or slightly active state in the reservoir and exposure to the stimulus increases its activity.

15. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 13, wherein the active ingredient is contained in the active state in the reservoir and exposure to the stimulus reduces its activity.

16. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 15, wherein at least one of the energy source, the interface, and the control means is integrated into a portable device (2) for packaging and dispensing the product, and capable of being held in the hand of an adult.

17. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 16, wherein the stimulus comprises a light or microwave, thermal or mechanical stimulus.

18. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 17, wherein the interface is

configured to allow the user to select a product line option from at least two possible product line options.

19. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 18, wherein the active ingredient in the starting composition comprises a grafted labile function rendering it inactive, in particular a photolabile function.

20. A system according to any one of claims 9 to 19, wherein the starting

composition comprises an encapsulated active ingredient, the stimulus rupturing the encapsulation to release the active ingredient.

21. A method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, in which:

· a cosmetic composition including a reactive compound that is capable of reacting under the effect of an energy stimulus is applied to a surface of said keratinous materials to allow the production of a color on said surface;

• said composition is exposed to an energy source, such that the incidence of the energy originating from the source on the composition is non-uniform, resulting in a variation in the exposure causing a variation in the color obtained, which is perceptible to the naked eye.

22. A method according to claim 21, wherein the step of exposing the composition to an energy source is done consecutively to the step of applying the composition to a surface of keratinous materials.

23. A method according to claim 21 or 22, wherein the incidence originating from the source on the composition is spatially non-uniform.

24. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 23, wherein the reactive

compound has a color that increases with the energy of the stimulation, it being in particular selected from compounds derived from color reactions such as: oxidation of diaminoaryl, aminohydroxyaryl, certain monoaminoaryl oxidation precursors, oxidation of polyphenols or other di- or tri- or multi-hydrobenzenes or mono- or di- or tri- or polyhydroxyaryls (where "aryl" may be a heterocycle), or compounds requiring a catalyst to become colored and used in association with a catalyst the release of which is rendered possible by stimulation, in particular a polyphenol with an encapsulated metallic catalyst.

25. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 23, wherein the reactive

compound has a color that reduces with an increase in stimulation, it being, for example, selected from compounds using an inhibitor the release of which is sensitive to the stimulation, such as a combination of an aminophenol and an acidic agent the release of which is rendered possible by stimulation, or a combination of a compound that oxidizes in air, such as paradiaminobenzene and a reducing agent the release of which is rendered possible by energetic stimulation.

26. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 25, wherein the energy source is a thermal, a radio frequency or a light source, in particular a source emitting UV radiation, in particular UVA.

27. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 26, wherein the reactive

compound comprises a photosensitive colorant selected, for example, from compounds having a colored form that is blocked by a photolabile function, those wherein one form is blocked by a photolabile function and which, once unblocked, change to produce a colored compound, and photochromes, preferably thermally stable.

28. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 26, wherein the reactive compound comprise a self-tanning agent, for example DHA bonded by its hydroxyl or carbonyl function to a photolabile group, or DHA encapsulated by a compound that is sensitive to stimulation.

29. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 28 comprising, after the exposure step, application of a second composition forming a screen to the energy stimulus.

A method according to any one of claims 21 to 29 comprising, after the exposure step, application of a second composition inhibiting a transformation of the reactive compound under the effect of an energy stimulus, for example a pH agent such as an acid.

A method according to any one of claims 21 to 30, comprising a step of rinsing the treated surface after exposure to the stimulus, in particular to eliminate the reactive compound that has not reacted to the stimulus.

A method according to any one of claims 21 to 31, wherein the treated surface is a surface of the skin and the treatment is intended to create a natural tan effect.

33. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 31, wherein the treated surface is a surface of the hair of the head and the treatment is intended to create a natural bleaching effect.

34. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 33, wherein the cosmetic

composition is applied by spraying.

35. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 34, wherein exposure to the energy stimulus is carried out without masking the composition.

36. A method according to any one of claims 21 to 35, wherein the energy source is an IR lamp.