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WO2009106338A2 - Cosmetic of dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles - Google Patents

Cosmetic of dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009106338A2
WO2009106338A2 PCT/EP2009/001405 EP2009001405W WO2009106338A2 WO 2009106338 A2 WO2009106338 A2 WO 2009106338A2 EP 2009001405 W EP2009001405 W EP 2009001405W WO 2009106338 A2 WO2009106338 A2 WO 2009106338A2
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Prior art keywords
agents
cosmetic
dermopharmaceutical
skin
composition according
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PCT/EP2009/001405
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French (fr)
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WO2009106338A3 (en
Inventor
Olga Lopez Serrano
Alfonso De La Maza
Lucyanna Barbosa
José María GARCÍA ANTÓN
Juan CEBRIÁN PUCHE
Nuria ALMIÑANA DOMÉNECH
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Lipotec, S.A.
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Application filed by Lipotec, S.A. filed Critical Lipotec, S.A.
Publication of WO2009106338A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009106338A2/en
Publication of WO2009106338A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009106338A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/24Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, halogen, nitrogen or sulfur, e.g. cyclomethicone or phospholipids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/26Carbohydrates, e.g. sugar alcohols, amino sugars, nucleic acids, mono-, di- or oligo-saccharides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. polysorbates, sorbitan fatty acid esters or glycyrrhizin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0291Micelles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/08Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing oxygen, e.g. ethers, acetals, ketones, quinones, aldehydes, peroxides
    • A61K47/10Alcohols; Phenols; Salts thereof, e.g. glycerol; Polyethylene glycols [PEG]; Poloxamers; PEG/POE alkyl ethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/30Macromolecular organic or inorganic compounds, e.g. inorganic polyphosphates
    • A61K47/36Polysaccharides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. gums, starch, alginate, dextrin, hyaluronic acid, chitosan, inulin, agar or pectin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/127Synthetic bilayered vehicles, e.g. liposomes or liposomes with cholesterol as the only non-phosphatidyl surfactant

Definitions

  • liposome refers to an approximately spherical aggregate formed by at least one double layer or bilayer of at least one phospholipid wherein the layers are very close to one another and the apolar domains of each layer are faced towards the apolar domains of the other lipid layer and thus, the polar domains of the phospholipids form both the internal and the external face of the double layer or bilayer.
  • the phospholipid of the composition micelles of the present invention is a natural or synthetic phosphoglyceride and preferably it is selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatide acid, phosphatidyl lycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphorylcholine, cardiolipin, fatty acid esters thereof, hydrogenation products thereof and the mixtures thereof, such as for example and in a non- ⁇ imiting sense, egg, soy or sunflower lecithins.
  • fatty acids there are for example and in a non-limiting sense, stearic, palmitic, oleic, myristic, lauric acids and all those saturated and unsaturated fatty acids known in the state of the art.
  • phosphatidylcholine LIPOID ® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added with stirring, followed by 3 g of tocopherol acetate, and next, 0.4 g of xanthane gum. Finally, 30 g of OPxAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant phospholipid mixed micelles which are reconstituted in the stratum corneum of the skin and its use for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.

Description

COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION OF MIXED MICELLES
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of surfactant- phospholipid mixed micelles wherein the mixed micelles are reconstituted into mixed liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin, and its use for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails associated with an excessive water loss and/or the alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The stratum corneum of the skin is composed of thin flat cells called comeocytes which are separated by lipid layers. Each corneocyte consists of a set of keratin filaments within an insoluble layer of proteins. Outside this layer and chemically bound to the proteins, there are long chain ceramides which interact with the intercellular lipid layers, which as a whole create a hydrophobe structure. Additionally, in the stratum corneum, both intracellular^ and extracellularly, there are molecules identified as a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) which favor water retention due to their hygroscopic nature.
The main function of this structure is acting as the external barrier of the skin, and as a barrier, this structure of comeocytes and lipids serves to regulate epidermal water loss. The transdermal water loss through the stratum corneum is inherently related to the normal functioning of the stratum corneum because it is necessary to hydrate the outermost layers of the stratum corneum in order to maintain its flexibility, and it is through these layers that the water loss is produced. Having to hydrate the outermost layers of the stratum corneum generates a water gradient within the stratum corneum, wherein the water percentage varies from less than 20% in the outermost layers to more than 40% in the innermost layers of the stratum corneum ("Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum", 1994, 3-12).
When transdermal water loss increases, there occurs a skin dehydration which is reflected in a decrease of approximately 10% in the percentage of water in the layers of the stratum corneum, which results in dry skin which is less flexible and where the desquamation is common. It has been proved that disturbance of the structure and composition of the stratum corneum affects the barrier function which protects the organism against chemical and physical aggressions and transdermal water loss. Age and environmental conditions such as, for example, cold or hot weather and low relative humidity are among the factors that contribute to skin dehydration.
In the state of the art, there are known several strategies for repairing dry skin, such as occlusion, emollient therapy and hydration. Occlusion consists of reducing water loss through damaged skin and/or protecting healthy skin by means of mineral or vegetal oils, lanolin, silicones, artificial mixtures of skin lipids or film-forming substances. However, these substances initially increase the water diffusion coefficient through the epidermis; therefore, at the beginning, the application increases the speed of transdermal water loss. Emollient therapy attempts to increase the flexibility and smoothness of the stratum corneum while hydration attempts to increase the amount of hydric content in the stratum corneum.
The use of surfactants in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions is another factor that contributes to transdermal water loss. In the state of the art, it is known that surfactants are generally used for solubilizing membranes, particularly of the stratum corneum, by forming lipid-surfactant mixed micelles (Colloid Polym. Sci. 2001 , 279, 909-915; Colloid Polym. Sci. 2002, 280, 352-357).
The proportion of ceramides in the lipids of the stratum corneum plays an important role in the resistance of these lipids against solubilization by surfactants and thus in the maintenance of the stratum corneum structure (Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 2000, 162, 131-140; International Journal of Pharmaceutics 1999, 187, 231-241 ). In this way, the treatment of the stratum corneum, for example, with octyl glucoside leads to a partial solubilization of the stratum corneum which increases with the octyl glucoside concentration until it reaches its critical micelle concentration, wherein the solubilized fraction is composed mainly of proteins and, in a smaller proportion, of lipids, and this treatment leads to a disintegration of the stratum corneum (Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 1997, 123-124, 415-424).
If these lipid-surfactant mixed micelles are diluted by increasing the concentration of lipids, larger vesicles are formed, wherein the size of the vesicles depends on the used surfactants (J. Phys. Chem. B 2001 , 105 (40), 9879-9886). It is also known that this vesicle dissolving and formation may be described as a series of balanced structures of vesicles, lamellar layers and mixed micelles wherein the equilibrium is moved according to the relative concentration of surfactants and lipids {Biochemistry 1988, 27, 1965-1703).
Whereas the treatment with surfactants has been used for inducing changes in the stratum comeum, however, topical applications of phospholipid liposomes have been used for improving skin characteristics and as a strategy for protecting the stratum corneum against a subsequent treatment with surfactants (Micron 2001 , 32, 201-205).
In the state of the art, it is also known that the treatment of stratum corneum with a low amount of lipids with liposomes formed by the lipids of the stratum corneum does not recover the structure of the stratum corneum and structural changes are observed in lamellar lipids. Among these changes, it is observed the formation of new isolated vesicles in the lamellar lipids, and this formation of vesicles may be associated with a reconstitution of the damaged intercellular lipid structure (Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 2001 , 182, 35-42).
International patent application WO 99/22703 A1 describes formulations for application on mucous membranes comprising dispersions of phospholipid micelles containing a biologically active agent, wherein the phospholipids adhere to mucosae and release the biologically active agent in a sustained way. These formulations may also contain a surfactant. However, in this document there is no indication that said micellar dispersions may penetrate the stratum corneum when topically applied on the skin.
Patent application ES 2070778 A1 describes that when non-ionic surfactants with hydrophile-liphophile balance (HLB) within 10 and 12 in surfactant/phospholipid ratios ranging from 90/1 to 150/1 are added to cosmetic compositions, there occurs no solubilization of phospholipid liposomes in said cosmetic compositions. In this document, it is also described the addition of active substances and additives, though no information is provided as regards the penetration capacity of the liposomes of the composition.
Furthermore, in the state of the art, it is also known that liposomes of phosphatidylcholine are able to penetrate into the stratum corneum by means of some mechanism induced by octylglucoside, because vesicles of 190-nm size are observed inside the stratum corneum when the intralamellar distance between the stratum corneum lipids reaches only 5-6 nm (Langmuir 2002, 18 (18), 7002-7008). In the same document, it is hypothesized that the presence of these vesicles of 190-nm size is due to the reconstitution by dilution of phosphatidylcholine-octylglucoside micelles in phosphatidylcholine vesicles in the intercellular lipid domain of the stratum corneum.
In the state of the art, there are several publications such as, for example, US 5128139 A which describes topical application compositions of dispersions of unilamellar or multilamellar phospholipid liposomes encapsulating cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical active substances. It is also known the use of liposomes which increase the skin hydration (Cosmetic and Toiletries 1991 , 106, 79-93). However, the penetration capacity of these liposomes into the skin is very low and a small percentage of liposomes produce an occlusion effect by adhering to the outermost skin layers.
According to the state of the art, it has been observed that surfactants solubilize membranes, particularly the stratum corneum membrane, and thus contribute to transdermal water loss. In addition, the use of surfactants for solubilizing cosmetic ingredients and/or increasing their penetration into the stratum corneum is widely spread in the cosmetic industry, causing said use an increase in transdermal water loss.
Therefore, there exists a need for finding cosmetic compositions comprising surfactants which dp not contribute to an increase of transdermal water loss, do not reduce the barrier function of the skin and favor the penetration of liposomes and/or cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical ingredients into the stratum corneum.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a solution to the above mentioned problem. Surprisingly, in the present invention, it has been revealed a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition comprising a dispersion of phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles and the use of this composition for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nail associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
Therefore, the first aspect of this invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition comprising a dispersion of phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles, wherein these mixed micelles are reconstituted as liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin.
In the present invention, the term "mixed micelle" refers to an approximately spherical aggregate formed by a homogenous monolayer consisting of one or more surfactants and of one or more phospholipids in a polar solvent wherein the polar domains of both the surfactants and the phospholipids are faced towards the solvent and constitute the outermost face of the micelle while the apolar domains of both the surfactants and the phospholipids form the internal face of the micelle.
In the present invention, the term "liposome" refers to an approximately spherical aggregate formed by at least one double layer or bilayer of at least one phospholipid wherein the layers are very close to one another and the apolar domains of each layer are faced towards the apolar domains of the other lipid layer and thus, the polar domains of the phospholipids form both the internal and the external face of the double layer or bilayer. Either the liposomes of the present invention have only one bilayer and are structured like unilamellar liposomes, or they may have from 2 to 6 concentric, or not, lipid bilayers, preferably from 2 to 4 concentric bilayers, and then they are organized as multilamellar, onion-like, liposomes or they may have from 2 to 6 bilayers, and they are organized as unilamellar liposomes comprising from 1 to 5 smaller unilamellar liposomes.
In a particular embodiment, the liposomes are mixed liposomes formed by molecules of one or more lipids and of one or more surfactants homogeneously distributed in each one of the double layers or bilayers and they have the above described liposome structures.
In a particular embodiment, the surfactant of the phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles is selected from the group consisting of non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and their mixture. Preferably, the surfactants of the composition of the present invention are non-ionic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants, more preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl glycosides with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, alkyl maltosides with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, ethoxylated alkylphenols with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and 5 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, ethers of alkylphenolpolyoxyethylene with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols with an alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, poloxamers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, castor oils, ethers of fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylene, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides, alkylbetaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, acylamidobetaines, alkylsulfobetaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, glycine derivatives, digitonin and mixtures thereof. More preferably, they are selected from the group consisting of octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, octylfructoside, dodecylmaltoside, decylmaltoside, nonoxinol-9, polyethylene glycol p- (1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenyl ether, palmitylalcohol, oleylalcohol, poloxamer 188, poloxamer 407, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polyethyleneglycol 40 stearate, polyethyleneglycol 50 stearate, polyethyleneglycol 100 stearate, polyoxyethylenestearylether, polyoxyethylaurylether, cocamide monoethanolamine, cocamide diethanolamine, cocamide triethanolamine, lauramide diethanolamine, lauramide monoethanolamine, cocamidopropylamine oxide, decylbetaine, dodecylbetaine, tetradecylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocoylamidoethyl N-2-hydroxyethylglycinate and cocoylamidoethyl N-2-hydroxyethylcarboxyglycinate and mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the phospholipid of the composition micelles of the present invention is a natural or synthetic phosphoglyceride and preferably it is selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatide acid, phosphatidyl lycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphorylcholine, cardiolipin, fatty acid esters thereof, hydrogenation products thereof and the mixtures thereof, such as for example and in a non-ϊimiting sense, egg, soy or sunflower lecithins. Among the fatty acids, there are for example and in a non-limiting sense, stearic, palmitic, oleic, myristic, lauric acids and all those saturated and unsaturated fatty acids known in the state of the art.
In another particular embodiment, the surfactant/phospholipid ratio by weight in the micelles of the composition of the present invention ranges from 150/1 to 1/1 , preferably from 50/1 to 2/1 , and more preferably from 10/1 to 4/1.
In another particular embodiment, the diameter of the micelles of the composition of this invention is smaller than 35 nm, preferably smaller than 20 nm, and more preferably smaller than 10 nm.
In another particular embodiment, the diameter of the reconstituted liposomes ranges from 80 nm to 700 nm, preferably from 120 nm to 350 nm, and more preferably from 160 nm to 250 nm.
In another particular embodiment, the percentage of water encapsulated in the reconstituted liposomes ranges from 5% to 95% by weight related to the liposome total weight, preferably from 15% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 30% and 60% by weight.
In another particular embodiment, the mixed micelles of the composition of this invention additionally comprise at least one lipid selected from the group consisting of glycerides, sterols, prenols, glycolipids, ceramides, glycosphingolipids, fatty acids, and the mixtures thereof, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, betasitosterol, ergosterol, phytosterols, triglycerides, 1 ,2- diacylglycerol, phytosphingosines, stearylamine or the mixtures thereof.
In another particular embodiment, the solvent of the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the present invention is any solvent or mixture of conventional cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propyleneglycol, glycerin, butylenglycol, hexylenglycol, ethoxydiglycol, polyethyleneglycol and/or any combination thereof.
In the state of the art, it is known that the solubility of the phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles is different for each solvent, and it varies according to the nature of the phospholipid and the critical micelle concentration of the surfactant in the solvent or mixture thereof. Therefore, the maximum concentration of the mixed micelles dispersed in the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention depends on the above mentioned factors.
In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention additionally comprises a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant may be either dispersed in the composition or encapsulated in the mixed micelles, and once they are reconstituted in liposomes, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant may remain either outside the liposome or inside the liposome in the lipid bilayer and/or in the polar core of the liposome. Among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants contained in the mixed micelles of the compostion of the present invention, it is possible to find the adjuvants commonly used in compositions for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair, and/or nails such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, skin conditioners such as, for example, cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants which recover and/or maintain the barrier function of the skin, hydrolytic epidermic enzymes, alphahydroxyacids, betahydroxyacids, desquamation agents, agents stimulating or inhibiting melamine synthesis, whitening or depigmenting agents, propigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, anti-age agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, organic solvents, liquid propellants, vitamins, pigments or colorants, dyes, gelling polymers, thickeners, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, dermorelaxing agents, agents capable of decreasing or treating bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, anti-itching agents, agents for the treatment and/or care of sensitive skin, skin refirming agents, astringent agents, agents stimulating lipolysis, anti-cellulite agents, calming agents, anti-inflamatory agents, analgesic agents, agents acting on cell metabolism, agents that improve the dermis- epidermis bond, agents inducing hair growth, agents inhibiting or retarding hair growth, muscle relaxants, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbents, chelating agents, plant extracts, essential oils, marine extracts, agents coming from a biofermentation process, mineral salts, cell extracts and sunscreens (organic or mineral photoprotective agents active against A and/or B ultraviolet rays), among others, and/or the mixtures thereof, provided that they are physically and chemically compatible with the rest of the components of the composition, particularly with the phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles contained in the composition of the present invention. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that recover and/or maintain the barrier function of the skin are, for example, humectants, substances retaining humidity, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifier agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of lipids and components of the stratum corneum (ceramides, fatty acids, proteins, etc.), agents inhibiting 5σ-reductase, agents inhibiting lysyl- and/or prolyl-hydroxylase, antioxidant agents, free radicals scavengers and/or anti-atmospheric pollution agents, anti- glycation agents, antimicrobial agents, fungicide agents, fungistatic agents, bactericide agents, bacteriostatic agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or agents capable of preventing or inhibiting their degradation, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, agents stimulating collagen synthesis, agents stimulating elastin synthesis, agents stimulating decorin synthesis, agents stimulating laminin synthesis, agents stimulating defensin synthesis, agents stimulating chaperone synthesis, agents stimulating hyaluronic acid synthesis, agents stimulating aquaporin synthesis, agents stimulating fibronectin synthesis, agents inhibiting matrix metalloprotease, agents inhibiting collagen degradation, agents inhibiting elastin degradation, agents inhibiting serine proteinases like leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, agents stimulating fibroblast proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, agents stimulating adipocyte proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, agents stimulating adipocyte differentiation, agents stimulating angiogenesis, agents stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis, DNA repairing agents, DNA protecting agents, anti-stretch mark agents, agents regulating sebum production, agents stimulating healing, coadjuvant healing agents, reepithelializing agents, cytokine growth factors, agents acting on capillary circulation and/or microcirculation and/or mixtures thereof. Likewise, the nature of said additional adjuvants must not alter in any unacceptable manner the benefits of the composition of the mixed micelles of the present invention. Said additional adjuvants may be of synthetic or natural origin, such as, for example, plant extracts, or they may come from a biofermentation process. Descriptions of additional examples may be found in CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Eleventh Edition 2006.
Another embodiment of the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles comprising a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one compound selected from the group of the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that repair and/or maintain the barrier function of the skin consisting of humectants, substances retaining humidity, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifier agents and the mixtures thereof, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, glycerin, pentylenglycol, propylenglycol, Glycereth-26, Sorbeth-30, panthenol, trehalose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, pyroglutamic acid and its derivatives, serine, proline, glutamate, arginine, urea, creatine, glucosamines, lactic acid, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, polyglyceryl acrylate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan, Λ/-(2- hydroxyethyl)acetamide, saccharide isomerate, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, xylitol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, n-lauroyl-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, Λ/-lauroyl-l- lysine, N-alpha-benzoyl-l-arginine, soluble collagen, dibutylphthalate, gelatin, stearic alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, propan-1 ,2-diol, butan-1 ,3- diol, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleic alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetylic alcohol, cetyl palmitate, dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylenglycol, lanolin, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isoestearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, decyl oleate or myristyl myristate, among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of one extract or combination of extracts with healing and/or reepithelizing activity or with effectiveness as coadjuvants in healing and/or reepithelizing processes such as as for example and in a non-limiting sense, Centella asiatica, Rosa moschata, Echinacea angustifolia, Symphytum officinale, Equisetum arvense, Hypericum perforatum, Mimosa tenuiflora, Aloe vera, Polyplant® Epithelizing [INCI: Calendula Officinalis, Hypericum Perforatum, Chamomilla Recutita, Rosmarinus Officinalis] sold by Provital, Cytokinol® LS 9028 [INCI: Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lysine HCI] sold by Laboratories Serobiologiques/Cognis o Deliner® [INCI: Zea May (Corn) Kernel Extract] sold by Coletica/Engelhard among others, and/or additionally, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with healing and/or reepithelizing activity or with effectiveness as coadjuvant in processes of healing and/or reepithelizing such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, cadherins, integrins, selectins, hyaluronic acid receptors, immunoglobulins, fibroblasts growth factor, connective tissue growth factor, platelet derived growth factor, vascular endothelial growth factor, epidermal growth factor, insulin-like growth factor, keratinocyte growth factor, colony-stimulating factors, transforming growth factor-beta, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, interferons, interleukins, matrix metalloproteases, protein tyrosine phosphatase receptors, Antarcticine® [INCI: Pseudoalteromones Ferment Extract] or Decorinyl® [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], sold by Lipotec, among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermbpharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with activity stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or with capacity inhibiting or preventing degradation thereof such as, for example, agents stimulating collagen synthesis, agents stimulating elastin synthesis, agents stimulating decorin synthesis, agents stimulating laminin synthesis, agents stimulating defensin synthesis, agents stimulating chaperone synthesis, agents stimulating hyaluronic acid synthesis, agents stimulating aquaporin synthesis, agents stimulating fibronectin synthesis, agents inhibiting matrix metalloprotease, agents inhibiting collagen degradation, agents inhibiting elastin degradation, agents inhibiting serin proteinases like leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, agents stimulating fibroblast proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, agents stimulating adipocyte proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, agents stimulating adipocyte differentiation, agents stimulating angiogenesis, agents stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis, DNA repairing agents, DNA protecting agents, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, Centella asiatica, Saccharomyces cerivisiae, Solanum tuberosum, Rosmarinus officinalis, Vaccinium angustifolium, Macrocystis pyrifera seaweed extract, Padina pavonica, extract of the plants of soy, malt, flax, sage, red clover, kakkon, lupine, hazelnut extract, maize extract, yeast extract, beech shoot extract, legume seed extract, extract of vegetables hormones such as giberelins, auxins or cytokinins among others, or extract of the zooplankton Salina, among others, and/or additionally a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with activity stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or with capacity inhibiting or preventing degradation thereof, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense: the product coming from the fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus Bulgaricus, asiaticosides and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3], Matrixyl® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] or Biopeptide CL™ [INCI: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] sold by Sederma, Antarcticine [INCI:_ Pseudomonas ferment extract] sold by Lipotec, Drieline® PF [INCIΥeast Betaglucan] sold by Alban Muller, Phytovityl C® [INCI: Aqua, Zea Mays Extract] sold by Solabia, Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] sold by Coletica/Engelhard, Phytocohesine® PSP [proposed INCI: Sodium Beta-Sitosterol Sulfate] sold by Seporga, minerals such as calcium among others, retinoids and its derivatives, isoflavonoids, carotenoids, particularly lycopene, pseudopeptides, retinoids and its derivatives such as retinol or retinyl palmitate among others, or heparinoids among others. '
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with refirming, rethickening and/or restructuring activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extracts of Malpighia punicitolia, Cynara scolymus, Gossypium herbaceum, Aloe Barbadensis, Panicum miliaceum, Mows nigra, Sesamum indicum, Glycine soy, Triticum vulgare, Pronalen® Refirming HSC [INCI: Triticum vulgare, Silybum Marianum, Glycine Soy, Equisetum Arvense, Alchemilla Vulgaris, Medicago Sativa, Raphanus Sativus] or Polyplant® Refirming [INCI: Coneflower, Asiatic Centella, Fucus, Fenugreek] sold by Provital, Lanablue® [INCI: Sorbitol, Algae Extract] sold by Atrium Innovations, Pepha®-Nutrix [INCI: Natural Nutrition Factor] sold by Pentapharm, or plant extracts containing isoflavones and/or at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with refirming, rethickening and/or restructuring activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, Biopeptide EL™ [INCI: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] Biopeptide CL™ [INCI: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide], Vexel® [INCI: Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Carnitine], Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3], Matrixyl® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] or Bio-Bustyl™ [INCI: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Rahnella Soy Protein Ferment, Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] sold by Sederma, Dermosaccharides® HC [INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Glycosaminoglycans, Glycogen], Aglycal® [INCI: Mannitol, Cyclodextrin, Glycogen, Aratostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract], Cytokinol® LS [INCI: Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lysine HCI] or Firmiderm® LS9120 [INCI: Terminalia Catappa Leaf extract, Sambucus Negra Flower Extract, PVP, Tannic Acid] sold by Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis, Liftline® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein], Raffermine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Soy Flour] or Ridulisse C® [Hydrolyzed Soy Protein] sold by Silab, Serilesine® [INCI: hexapeptide-10] or Decorinyl™ [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], sold by Lipotec.-Ursolisome® [INCI: Lecithin, Ursolic Acid, Atelocollagen, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate] or Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] sold by Coletica/Engelhard, Syn®-Coll [INCI: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5] sold by Pentapharm, Hydriame® [INCI: Water (Aqua), Glycosaminoglycans, Sclerotium Gum] sold by Atrium Innovations or IP2000 [INCI: Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2] sold by lnstitut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire, among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with anti-glycation activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extracts of Vacciniυm angustifolium, among others, and/or additionally, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with anti-glycation activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, ergothioneine ' and its derivatives, lysine, Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized Wheat Protein, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Tripeptide-1] or Eyeseryl® [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5] sold by Lipotec, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, resveratrol or 3,3',5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene, among others.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with activity inhibiting NO-sintase, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extracts of Vitis vinifera, Olea europaea or Gingko biloba plants, among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with free radicals scavenging activity and/or anti- atmospheric pollution activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, tea extract, olive tree leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract or Eichhornia crassipes extract and/or at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with free radicals scavenging activity and/or anti-atmospheric pollution activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, benzopyrone, heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium or nickel, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, particularly tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl glycosides, phenols and polyphenols, particularly tannins, tannic acid, and ellagic acid, galocatechol, anthocyans, chlorogenic acid, stilbenes, indols, derivatives of amino acids containing cysteine, particularly ^-acetylcysteine, ergothioneine, S- carboxymethylcysteine, chelating agents, particularly EDTA or ethylenediamine, carotenoids, bioflavonoids, ubiquinone, idebenone, catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase, glutathione, benzylidenecamphor, pidolates, lignans, melatonin, orizanol, Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized Wheat Protein, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Tripeptide-1] or Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] sold by Lipotec among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with activity inhibiting 5σ-reductase, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extract of Cinnamommum zeylanicum, Laminaria saccharina, Spiraea ulmaria, Serenoa repens, extracts of the plants of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thymus vulgaricus, extract of the plants from the Silybum genre, extract of plants containing sapogenins, particularly, extract of the plants of Dioscorea among others and/or additionally, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with activity inhibiting 5σ-reductase, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, retinoids and particularly retinol, sulfur and its derivatives, zinc salts and particularly lactate, gluconate; pidolate, carboxylate, zinc salicylate or cysteate, selenium chloride, vitamin B6, pyridoxine, capryloyl glycine or sarcosine among others. Likewise, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical. composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound with activity inhibiting lysyl- and/or prolyl-hydroxylase, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-oxide or 2,4-diamino-6- piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide among others.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may additionally comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one bactericide and/or bacteriostatic agent and/or one fungicide agent and/or fungistatic agent, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, caprylylglycol, imidazolidinyl urea, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: methylparaben], ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: ethylparaben], propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: propylparaben], butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: butylparaben], isobutyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: isobutylparaben], 1 ,3-bis(hydroxymetyl)-5,5-dimethyl-imidazolidine-2,4-dione [INCI: DMDM Hydantoin], benzyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: benzylparaben], benzylic alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, formic acid, propionic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1 ,3-diol, 3-p-clorophenoxy-1 ,2-propanodiol [INCI: chlorphenesin], dichlorobenzyl alcohol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, chlorhexidine, isopropanol, methanol, 1 ,2-hexanodioic, 1 ,2-octanodioic, pentylenglycol, glycerine laureate, glycerine caprylate, glycerine caprate, benzoyl peroxide, chlorhexidine gluconate, triclosan, phenoxyethanol, terpinen-4-ol, σ-terpineol, resorcinol, stiemycin, erythromycin, neomycin, clindamycin and ethers thereof, tetracyclines, metronidazole, azelaic acid, tolnaftate, nystatin, clotrimazole, ketoconazole, zinc piritionate, zinc oxide, isotiazolinones, selenium sulfide, benzylhemiformal, boric acid, sodium borate, 6,6-dibromo-4,4-dichloro-2,2'-methylendiphenol [INCI: bromochlorophene],
5-bromo-5-nitro-1 ,3-dioxane, sodium tosylchloramide [INCI: chloramine T], chloroacetamide, p-chloro-m-cresol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol [INCI: chlorophene], dimethyl oxazolidine, ammonium dodecyldimethyl-2-phenoxyethyl bromide [INCI: domiphen bromide], 7-ethylbicyclooxazolidine, hexetidine, glutaraldehyde, n-(4-chlorophenyl)-n-[4-cloro-3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]-urea [INCI: cloflucarban], 2-hydroxy-4-isopropyl-2,4,6-cycloheptatrien-1-one [INCI: Hinokitiol], isopropylmethylphenol, mercury salts, aluminum salts, nisin, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol, 3-heptyl-2-[(3-heptyl-4-methyl-3H-thiazol-2-yliden)methyl]-
4-methylthiazolium iodide [INCI: Quatemium-73], silver chloride, sodium iodate, thymol, undecylenic acid, diethylenetriaminopentaacetic acid, ethylenetriaminopentaacetic acid, lactoperoxidase, glucose oxidase, lactoferrine, and/or a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one natural extract or essential oil with bactericide, bacteriostatic, fungicide and/or fungistatic intrinsic activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense: the extracts of Allium sativum, Calendula officinalis, Chamomilla recutita, Echinacea Purpura, Hyssopus Officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia or the tea tree oil among others.
Likewise, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound or combination of synthetic compounds with desquamation activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, alphahydroxyacids, particularly glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and/or mandelic acid among others, betahydroxyacids, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, salicylic acid and its derivatives, as well as the use of urea and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes, resveratrol, Λ/-acetylglucosamine, jasmonic acid and its derivatives, cinnamic acid, gentisic acid, oligofucoses, detergents and/or enzymes, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, sutilains, papain or bromelain or at least one extract or combination of extracts of Saphora japonica, papaya, pine, pumpkin, or sweet potato, among others.
Likewise, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one analgesic and/or anti-inflamatory compound. Among those compounds, it is worth mentioning synthetic compounds such as hydrocortisone, clobetasol, dexamethasone, prednisone, paracetamol, acetylsalicylic acid, amoxiprin, benorilate, choline, salicylate, diflunisal, faislamine, methyl salicylate, magnesium salicylate, salsalate, diclofenac, aceclofenac, acemetacine, bromfenac, etodolac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, ibuprofen, carprofen, fenbufen, fenoprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, loxoprofen, naproxen, oxaprozine, tiaprofenic acid, suprofen, mefenamic acid, meclofenamate, meclofenamic acid, nabumetone, phenylbutazone, azapropazone, metamizole, oxyphenbutazone, sulfinpyrazone, peroxicam, lomoxicam, meloxicam, tenoxicam, celecoxib, etoricoxibe, lumiracoxibe, parecoxib, rofecoxib, valdecoxib, nimesulide, licofelone, omega-3 fatty acids and biometabolites thereof, morphine, codeine, oxycodone, hydrocodone, diamorphine, petidine, tramadol, buprenorphine, benzocaine, lidocaine, chloroprocaine, tetracaine, procaine, tricyclic antidepressants, amitriptyline, carbamazepine, gabapentin, pregabaline, bisabolol, panthenol, biotin, disodium laurimino dipropionate tocopheryl phosphate, cyclopyrox olamine, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, coenzyme Q10 or alkylglycerine ethers, or the natural extracts or essential oils with analgesic and/or anti-inflamatory intrinsic activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, madecassoside, echinacine, amaranth seed oil, sandalwood oil, placenta extract, peach tree leaf extract, Aloe vera, Arnica montana, Artemisia vulgaris, Asarum maximum, Calendula officinalis, Capsicum, Centipeda cunninghamii, Chamomilla recutita, Crinum asiaticum, Hamamelis virginiana, Harpagophytum procumbens, Hypericum perforatum, Lilium candidum, Malva sylvestris, Melaleuca alternifolia, Origanum majorana, Salix alba, Silybum marianum, Tanacetum parthenium or Uncaria guianensis among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with anti-wrinkle and/or anti-age activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extracts of Vitis vinifera, Rosa canina, Curcuma longa, Iris pallida, Theobroma cacao, Ginkgo biloba, or Dunaliella salina among others, and/or at least one synthetic compound, extract or product coming from a biofermentation process with anti-wrinkle and/or anti-age activity, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3] or Matrixyl® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] sold by Sederma, Vialox® [INCI: Pentapeptide-3] or Syn-ake® [INCI: Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate] sold by Pentapharm, Myoxinol™ [INCI: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract] sold by Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis, Algisum C® [INCI: Methylsilanol Mannuronate] or Hydroxyprolisilane CN® [INCI: Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate] sold by Exsymol, Argireline® [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8], Leuphasyl® [INCI: Pentapeptide-18], Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized soy protein, tripeptide-1], Eyeseryl® [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5], Trylagen™ [INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1] or Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] sold by Lipotec, Kollaren® [INCI: Tripeptide-1 , Dextran] sold by lnstitut Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire, Collaxyl® [INCI: Hexapeptide-9] or Quintescine® [INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipeptide-4] sold by Vincience, BONT-L-Peptide [proposed INCI: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide] sold by lnfinitec Activos, Ca2+ channel antagonists such as the alverine, manganese or magnesium salts, certain secondary or tertiary amines, retinol and its derivatives, idebenone, coenzyme Q10 and its derivatives, boswellic acid and its derivatives or antagonists of chloride channel, among others.
Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with depigmenting activity such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, extracts of Achillea millefolium, Aloe vera, Aradirachta indica, Asmuna japonica, Autocarpus incisus, Bidens pilosa, Broussonetia papyrifera, Chlorella vulgaris, Cimicifuga racemosa, Emblica officinalis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Ilex purpurea, Ligusticum lucidum, Ligusticum wallichii, Mitracarpus scaber, Morinda citrifolia, Morus alba, Morus bombycis, Naringi crenulata, Prunus domesticus, Pseudostellariae radix, Rumex crispus, Rumex occidentalis, Sapindus mukurossi, Saxifragia sarmentosa, Scutellaria Galericulate, Sedum sarmentosum Bunge, Stellaria medica, Triticum Vulgare, Uva ursi or Whitania somnifera, among others, and/or additionally, a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation process with depigmenting activity such as for example and in a non- limiting sense, Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] (6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl chromane) or Chromabright™ [proposed INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chroman Palmitate] sold by Lipotec, Actiwhite™ LS9808 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Sucrose Dilaurate, Polysorbate 20, Pisum sativum (Pea) extract] or Dermawhite® NF LS9410 [INCI: Mannitol, Arginine HCI, Phenylalanine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Kojic Acid, Citric Acid, Yeast Extract] sold by Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis, Lumiskin™ [INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid, Diacetyl- Boldine], Melaclear™ [INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Dithiaoctanediol, Gluconic acid, Sutilains, Beta-carotene], O.D.A.white™ [INCI: octadecendioic acid] or Etioline™ [INCI: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Arctostaphylos uva ursi Leaf Extract, Mitracarpus scaber Extract] sold by Sederma, Sepiwhite™ MSH [INCI: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine] sold by Seppic, Achromaxyl [INCI: Aqua, Brassica napus Extract] sold by Vincience, Gigawhite™ [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Malva sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha piperita Leaf Extract, Primula veris Extract, Alchemilla vulgaris Extract, Veronica officinalis Extract, Melissa officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea millefolium Extract], Melawhite® [INCI: Leukocyte Extract, AHA] or Melfade®-J [INCI: Aqua, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate] sold by Pentapharm, Albatin® [INCI: Aminoethylphosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aqua] sold by Exsymol, Tyrostat™-11 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Rumex occidentalis Extract] or Melanostatine®-5 [INCI: Dextran, Nonapeptide-1] sold by Atrium Innovations, arbutin and its isomers, kojic acid and its derivates, vitamin C and its derivates such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, 6-O-palmitoylascorbic acid, dipalmitoylascorbic acid, magnesium salt of the ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP), sodic salt of the ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (NAP), ascorbyl glucoside or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VCIP) among others, retinol and its derivates including tretinoin and isotretinoin, idebenone, hydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, flavonoids, soy extract, lemon extract, orange extract, ginkgo extract, cucumber extract, geranium extract, bearberry extract, carob extract, cinnamon extract, marjoram extract, rosemary extract, clove extract, licorice soluble extract, blackberry leaves extract, niacinamide, liquiritin, resorcinol and its derivates, hydroquine, σ-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, azelaic acid, azeloglycine, resveratrol, mercury salts, linoleic acid, σ-lipoic acid, dihydrolipoic acid, alphahydroxy acids, betahydroxy acids, ellagic cid, ferulic acid, cinnamic acid, oleanolic acid, aloesin and its derivates and/or serine protease inhibitors, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, tryptase, trypsin or PAR-2 inhibitors, among others.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention can comprise agents that increase the percutaneous absorption of mixed micelles, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, dimethyl sulfoxide, dimethylacetamide, dimethylformamide, surfactants, azone ei-dodecyl-aza-cycloheptane-2-oneJ, alcohol, urea, ethoxylated diglycol, acetone, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, among others. Furthermore, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions object of the present invention can be applied in local areas to be treated by means of iontophoresis, sonophoresis, electroporation, micro-electric patches, mechanical pressure, osmotic pressure gradient, occlusive treatment, microinjections or needle- free injections by means of pressure, such as for example injections by oxygen pressure, or any combination thereof, for the purpose of achieving a deeper penetration of the mixed micelles in the stratum corneum.
The compositions of the invention can also be incorporated in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical sustained release systems.
The term "sustained release" is used in a conventional sense to refer to a delivery system for a compound or composition providing gradual release of said compound or composition during a period of time and preferably, though not necessarily, with constant compound or composition release levels along a period of time.
Examples of sustained release systems are milliparticles, microparticles, nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, sponges, cyclodextrines, vesicles, millispheres, microspheres, nanospheres, lipospheres, millicapsules, microcapsules and nanocapsules, which can be added for the purpose of achieving a deeper penetration of the composition of mixed micelles and/or improving the pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties thereof.
Sustained release formulations can be prepared by means of methods known in the state of the art. The amount of the composition of mixed micelles contained in the sustained release formulation will depend, for example, on the kinetics and duration of the release of the composition of mixed micelles of the invention.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention can be prepared by means of conventional methods known by persons skilled in the art ("Harry's Cosmeticology", Eight edition 2000; "Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy", Twentieth edition 2003J. The mixed micelles of the compositions of the present invention can also be prepared by means of methods known by persons skilled in the art.
The topical application formulations of the composition of the invention can be presented in any kind of solid, liquid or semisolid dosage form, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, creams, multiple emulsions such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, emulsions of oil and/or silicone in water, emulsions of water in oil and/or silicone, emulsions of the water/oil/water or water/silicone/water type and emulsion of the oil/water/oil or silicon/water/silicon type, anhydrous compositions, aqueous dispersions, oils, milks, balsams, foams, lotions, gels, hydroalcoholic solutions, hydroglycolic solutions, liniments, saline solutions, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, sera, polysaccharide films, unguents, mousses, ointments, powders, bars, pencils and aerosols or sprays, including leave-on and rinse-off formulations. These topical application formulations can be incorporated by means of techniques known by persons skilled in the art to different kind of solid accessories such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, makeup line products like makeup foundations, ' including fluid and compact makeup foundations, makeup remover lotions, makeup remover milks, concealers, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip protectors, lip glosses and powders, among others. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention can also be incorporated to products for the treatment and/or care of the nails and cuticles, such as nail polishes, nail polish remover lotions and cuticle remover lotions, among others.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention can also be absorbed into solid organic polymers or solid mineral supports such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, talc, bentonite, silica, starch or maltodextrin among others.
The cosmetic composition of the invention can also be incorporated into fabrics, non- woven fabrics and medical devices which are in direct contact with the skin, eyelashes hair and/or nails of the body, such that the mixed micelles of the composition of the invention are released, either by biodegradation of the anchorage system to the fabric, non-woven fabric or medical device, or by the friction of to the latter with the body, by body moisture, by the pH of skin or by body temperature. Furthermore, fabrics and non-woven fabrics can be used to make garments which are in direct contact with the skin, hair and/or nails. Preferably, fabrics, non-woven fabrics and medical devices containing the composition of the invention are used for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
Examples of fabrics, non-woven fabrics, garments, medical devices and means to immobilize the micelles can be found described in the literature and are known in the state of the art ("Impregnating Fabrics With Microcapsules", HAPPI May 1986; Int. J. Phafm. 2002, 242, 55-62; "Biofunctional Textiles and the Skin" Curr. Probl. Dermatol. 2006 v.3; J. Cont. Release 2004, 97, 313-320). Preferred fabrics, non-woven fabrics, garments and medical devices are bandages, gauzes, T-shirts, socks, stockings, underwear, girdles, gloves, diapers, sanitary napkins, dressings, bedcovers, wipes, hydrogels, adhesive patches, non-adhesive patches, microelectric patches and/or face masks.
Another aspect of the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, wherein said mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin, for the treatment and/or care of skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nail.
In a particular embodiment, the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails. Preferably, these conditions, disorders and/or pathologies are selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin and/or hair pigmentation disorders, skin dryness, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and/or pathologies can be originated by an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function, or else the condition, disorder and/or pathology has an origin other than the excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function but it causes an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function.
In the context of the present invention, the term "skin aging" refers to the changes suffered by the skin as the person becomes older (crono-aging) or by exposure to the sun (photo-aging) or to environmental agents such as tobacco smoke, extreme cold or wind climatic conditions, chemical pollutants or pollution, and includes all the visible external changes as well as changes that can be perceived through touch, such as for example and in a non-limiting sense, development of skin discontinuities such as wrinkles, thin lines, cracks, irregularities or roughness, increase of pore size, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, loss of smoothness, loss of the capacity to recuperate after deformation, skin hanging such as cheek hanging, appearance of bags under the eyes or double chin, among others, changes of the skin color, such as spots, reddening, eye dark circles or the appearance of hyperpigmented areas such as age spots or freckles among others, anomalous differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, keratosis, orange hue of the skin, loss of collagen structuring and other histological changes of the stratum corneum, of the dermis, epidermis, vascular system (for example the appearance of spider veins or telangiectasias) or of those tissues close to the skin, among others.
The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the present invention can be a final composition, available for its application without having to perform any concentration, dissolution, dilution, dispersion, pulverization, spraying process or any other similar process known by the person skilled in the art, or else an intermediate composition where one or more of the above processes known by the person skilled in the art will be performed in order to obtain the final composition.
Another aspect of the present invention refers to the use of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, wherein said mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin, in the preparation of a final cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelahes, hair and/or nail.
In a particular embodiment, the present invention refers to the use of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, wherein said mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin, in the preparation of a final cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails. Preferably, these conditions, disorders and/or pathologies are selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin and/or hair pigmentation disorders, skin dryness, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and/or pathologies can be originated by an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function or else, the condition, disorder and/or pathology has an origin other than the excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function but it causes an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function.
Another aspect of the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical method for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nail, comprising the application of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, wherein said mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum comeum of the skin.
In a particular embodiment, the treatment and/or care method of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies is associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails. Preferably, these conditions, disorders and/or pathologies are selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin and/or hair pigmentation disorders, skin dryness, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and/or pathologies can be originated by an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function or else, the condition, disorder and/or pathology has an origin other than the excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function but it causes an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function.
The application frequency can vary widely according to the needs of each person, there being suggested an application frequency of once a month up to ten times a day, preferably from once a week up to four times a day; more preferably, from three times a week up to three times a day, and even more preferably, once or twice a day.
The following specific examples hereby provided serve to illustrate the nature of the - present invention. These examples are included only for illustrative purposes and should not be interpreted as limitations of the invention hereby claimed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
Figure 1 shows a photograph obtained through transmission electronic microscopy.
The numbers indicate 5 liposomes containing 280 nm (1 ), 470 nm (2), 520 nm (3), (4) and 700 nm (5) of phosphatidylcholine reconstituted in the stratum corneum from the composition of mixed micelles of example 1. The interior space of the liposomes is filled with water from the stratum comeum which is encapsulated inside the reconstituted liposomes.
Figure 2 shows a photograph obtained by transmission electronic microscopy. The numbers indicate 5 liposomes containing 320 nm (1 ), 190 nm (2), 160 nm (3), 270 nm (4) and 320 nm (5) of phosphatidylcholine reconstituted in the stratum comeum from the composition of mixed micelles of example 2. The interior space of the liposomes is filled with water from the stratum corneum which is encapsulated inside the reconstituted liposomes.
Figure 3 shows a photograph obtained by transmission electronic microscopy. The numbers indicate 2 liposomes containing 95nm (1) and 180 nm (2) of lecithin reconstituted in the stratum corneum from the composition of mixed micelles of example 3. The interior space of the liposomes is filled with water from the stratum comeum which is encapsulated inside the reconstituted liposomes.
Figure 4 is obtained by transmission electronic microscopy and shows a liposome containing 300 nm of phosphatidylserine reconstituted in the stratum corneum from the composition of mixed micelles of example 4. The interior space of the liposomes is filled with water from the stratum corneum which is encapsulated inside the reconstituted liposomes.
EXAMPLES General methodology
All the reactive agents and solvents have a quality suitable for synthesis and are used without any additional treatment.
EXAMPLE 1 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside-phosphatidylcholine
20.4 g of non-ionic surfactant n-octyl /?-D-glucoside were dissolved in 50 ml of water. Once the dissolution was ready, 7.8 g of the lipid LIPOID® S 100 (esters of fatty acids of phosphatidylcholine) [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added, mixed and brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml. This was mixed again heating the dispersion up to 40 0C and an ultrasound bath to facilitate the homogenization of the solution. The mixed micelles are formed when the entire lipid has been solubilized and a transparent dispersion is obtained.
EXAMPLE 2 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decyl glucoside-phosphatidylcholine The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1 , but n-octyl β-D- glucoside was replaced by a mixture of surfactants of octylglucoside and decyl glucoside, ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside].
EXAMPLE 3
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decyl glucoside-lecithin The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 2, but the phospholipid LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] was replaced by lecithin LIPOID® P 20 [INCI: Lecithin]. The amount of surfactants was 32 g and the amount of phospholipid was 3 g.
EXAMPLE 4
Composition of mixed micelles of dodecylmaltoside-phosphatidylseήne The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1 , but the n-octyl β- D-glucoside was replaced by dodecylmaltoside and the phospholipid LIPOID® P 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] was replaced by phosphatidylserine. The amount of dodecylmaltoside was 16 g and the amount of phosphatidylserine was 6.8 g.
EXAMPLE 5 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside-phosphatidylcholine and N- stearoylphytosphingosine
The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1. The amount of surfactant was 23 g and the amount of phospholipid was 6 g, and 1 g of lipid CERAMIDE III (N-stearoylphytosphingosine) was added at the same time as the phospholipid.
EXAMPLE 6
Composition of mixed micelles ofpolysorbate-phosphatidylinositol and cholesterol The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1. The amount of surfactant TWEEN® 80 [INCI: Polysorbate 80] was 8 g and the amount of phosphatidylinositol phospholipid was 5 g, and 1 g of cholesterol was added at the same time as the phospholipid. The solvent was ethanol.
EXAMPLE 7 Composition of mixed micelles of nonoxinol-phosphatidylglycerol and octyl-Zdecyl triglyceride
The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1. The amount of surfactant nonoxinol-9 was 78 g and the amount of phosphatidylglycerol phospholipid was 1.4 g, and 0.4 g of MYRITOL® 318 [INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride] was added at the same time as the phospholipid. The solvent was glycerin.
EXAMPLE 8
Composition of mixed micelles of dodecylbetaine-phosphatidylethanolamine The mixed micelles were prepared in the way described in example 1. The amount of surfactant dodecylbetaine was 8 g and the amount of the phosphatidylethanolamine phospholipid was 8 g. The solvent was propilenglycol.
EXAMPLE 9
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylglucoside- phosphatidylcholine containing caffeine, carnitine, imidazolidinyl and parabens
0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of caffeine and 1 g of carnitine were dissolved with stirring in 50 ml of water. Once dissolved, 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added with stirring and then 0.4 g of xanthane gum were added. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added slowly and with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 10
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decy glucoside- phosphatidylcholine containing sodium diclofenac
3O g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] were dissolved with stirring in 50 ml of water and then, 0.2 g of sodium diclofenac. Once dissolved, 7 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 11 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decyl glucoside-lecithin containing sodium diclofenac
3O g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] were dissolved with stirring in 50 ml of water and then, 0.2 g of sodium diclofenac. Once dissolved, 3 g of LIPOID® P 20 [INCI: Lecithin] were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 12
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylglucoside-lecithin containing lysine, SERILESINE®, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens The composition was prepared in the way described in example 9. First, 0.5 g of
PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben,
Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of lysine and 10 g of aqueous solution of SERILESINE® [INCI: Hexapeptide-10] were dissolved at 0.05%.
Next, 4 g of lecithin LIPOID® P 20 [INCI: Lecithin] and 0.4 g of xanthane gum were added. Finally, 3O g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl
Glucoside] were added slowly at 60% and with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 13 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylglucoside-phosphatidylcholine containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens The composition was prepared in the way described in example 9. First, 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 0.1 g of hyaluronic acid and 5 g of glycerin were dissolved. Next, 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] and 0.4 g of xanthane gum were added. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml. EXAMPLE 14
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylgtucoside-phosphatidylcholine containing ascorbylglucoside, arbutin, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens The composition was prepared in the way described in example 9. First, 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of ascorbyl glucoside and 5 g of arbutin were dissolved. Next, 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] and 0.4 g of xanthane gum were added. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 15
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylglucoside-phosphatidylcholine containing ALDENINE®, tocopherol acetate, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens
0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea and 5 g of an aqueous solution of ALDENINE® [INCI: Hydrolized Wheat Protein, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Tripeptide-1] were dissolved in 50 ml of water with stirring. Once dissolved, 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added with stirring, followed by 3 g of tocopherol acetate, and next, 0.4 g of xanthane gum. Finally, 30 g of OPxAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added slowly with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 16
Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside/decylglucoside-phosphatidylcholine containing parabens, ANTARCTICINE®, LEUPHASYL® and the peptide inhibiting metalloproteases Ac-L-Arg-L-His-L-His-L-Cit-OH. 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.3 g of potassium sorbate and 0.5 g of caprylyl glycol were dissolved with stirring in 50 ml of water heated at 3O0C. Once dissolved, 4 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] were added, followed by 7.5 g of ANTARCTICINE® [INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract], 2O g of an aqueous dissolution of LEUPHASYL® [INCI: Pentapeptide-18] at 0.05%, and 0.025 g of the peptide inhibiting metalloproteases Ac-L-Arg-L-His-L-His-L-Cit-OH, and next 0.4 g of xanthane gum. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIXTURE CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside] at 60% were added with stirring so as not to make foam and it was brought up to volume with water up to 100 ml.
EXAMPLE 17
Reconstitution assays of the compositions of mixed micelles of the examples 1-4 in liposomes in the stratum corneum 18 hours after the application of the compositions to the examples 1 to 4 in stratum corneum of pigs, the hairless pig epidermis was separated and the sheets of stratum corneum were isolated. Next, the stratum corneum was cut in 2x1 thin sheets. The sheets were fixed with glutaraldehid 5% in sodium cacodylate buffer 0.1 at pH=7.2 and later fixed in RuO4 0.2% in sodium cacodylate buffer 0.1 M at pH=6.8 with sodium ferrocyanide 0.25% (w/v). After one hour, the RuO4 solution was changed for fresh RuO4 to obtain an optimum fixing. After washing with a buffer, the tissue samples were cryofixed through rapid freezing with liquid nitrogen at -196 0C.
The cryofixed samples were analysed in an AFS (Automatic Freeze Substitution) system (Leica). The tissue was cryosubstituted at -90 0C during 48 hours using methanol containing 1% of OsO4, 9.5% of acetate uranyl and 3% of glutaraldehid. After 48 hours, the temperature was increased to -50 0C after which the samples were washed three times with methanol and the solution was sequentially substituted by methanol through Lowicryl HM20 (100%). This resin was replaced after 24 and 48 hours by a new medium. Finally, the samples underwent UVA radiation to allow polymerization and ultrathin cuts (Ultracut UCT, Leica) were made which were transferred to a Formvar plate and examined in a transmission electronic microscope Hitachi 600.
Figures 1 to 4 show liposomes containing water reconstructed in a stratum corneum .of pig skin for the compositions of the examples 1 to 4, respectively.

Claims

1. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition comprising a dispersion of surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelles, characterized in that said mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes encapsulating water in the stratum corneum of the skin.
2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 1 , wherein said liposomes are surfactant-phospholipid mixed liposomes.
3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said surfactant is selected from a group consisting of non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and the mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said surfactant is selected from a group consisting ,of alkyl glycosides with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, alkyl maltosides with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, ethoxylated alkylphenols with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and 5 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, ethers of, alkylphenolpolyoxyethylene with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols with an alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, poloxamers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, castor oils, ethers of fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylene, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides, alkylbetaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, acylamidobetaines, alkylsulfobetaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, glycine derivatives, digitonin and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said surfactant is selected from a group consisting of octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, octylfructoside, dodecylmaltoside, decylmaltoside, nonoxinol-9, polyethylene glycol p-(1 , 1 ,3,3- tetramethylbutyl)phenylether, palmitylalcohol, oleylalcohol, poloxamer 188, poloxamer 407, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polyethyleneglycol 40 stearate, polyethyleneglycol 50 stearate, polyethyleneglycol 100 stearate, polyoxyethylenestearylether, polyoxyethylaurylether, cocamide monoethanolamine, cocamide diethanolamine, cocamide triethanolamine, lauramide diethanolamine, lauramide monoethanolamine, cocamidopropylamine oxide, decylbetaine, dodecylbetaine, tetradecylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocoylamidoethyl N-2-hydroxyethylglycinate and cocoylamidoethyl N-2-hydroxyethylcarboxyglycinate and mixtures thereof.
6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said phospholipid is a phosphoglyceride.
7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 6, wherein said phosphoglyceride is selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylglycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphorylcholine, cardiolipin, egg lecithin, soy lecithin, sunflower lecithin, fatty acid esters thereof and their mixtures.
8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said mixed micelles additionally comprise at least one lipid selected from the group consisting of glycerides, sterols, prenols, glycolipids, ceramides, glycosphingolipids, fatty acids, and the mixtures thereof.
9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 8, wherein said lipid is selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasteroj, betasitosterol, ergosterol, phytosterols, triglycerides, 1 ,2-diacylglycerol, phytosphingosines, stearylamine and the mixtures thereof.
10. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, additionally comprising a cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant.
11. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 10, wherein said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant is selected from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that recover and/or maintain the barrier function of the skin, hydrolytic epidermic enzymes, alphahydroxyacids, betahydroxyacids, desquamation agents, desquamation agents, agents stimulating or inhibiting melamine synthesis, whitening or depigmenting agents, propigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, anti-age agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, organic solvents, liquid propellants, vitamins, pigments or colorants, dyes, gelling polymers, thickeners, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, dermorelaxing agents, agents capable of decreasing or treating bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, anti- itching agents, agents for the treatment and/or care of sensitive skin, skin refirming agents, astringent agents, agents stimulating lipolysis, anti-cellulite agents, calming agents, anti-inflamatory agents, analgesic agents, agents acting on cell metabolism, agents that improve the dermis-epidermis bond, agents inducing hair growth, agents inhibiting or retarding hair growth, muscle relaxants, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbents, chelating agents, plant extracts, essential oils, marine extracts, agents coming from a biofermentation process, mineral salts, cell extracts and sunscreens, organic or mineral photoprotective agents active against A and/or B ultraviolet rays, among others, and the mixtures thereof.
12. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 11 , wherein said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant is a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant that recovers and/or maintains the barrier function of the skin selected from the group consisting of humectants, substances retaining humidity, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifier agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of lipids and components of the stratum corneum, ceramides, fatty acids, proteins, agents inhibiting 5σ-reductase, agents inhibiting lysyl- and/or prolyl-hydroxylase, antioxidant agents, free radicals scavengers and/or anti-atmospheric pollution agents, anti-glycation agents, antimicrobial agents, fungicide agents, fungistatic agents, bactericide agents, bacteriostatic agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or agents capable of preventing or inhibiting their degradation, agents stimulating collagen synthesis, agents stimulating elastin synthesis, agents stimulating decorin synthesis, agents stimulating laminin synthesis, agents stimulating defensin synthesis, agents stimulating chaperone synthesis, agents stimulating hyaluronic acid synthesis, agents stimulating aquaporin synthesis, agents stimulating fibronectin synthesis, agents inhibiting matrix metalloprotease, agents inhibiting collagen degradation, agents inhibiting elastin degradation, agents inhibiting serine proteinases, leukocyte elastase, cathepsin G, agents stimulating fibroblast proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, agents stimulating adipocyte proliferation, agents stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, agents stimulating adipocyte differentiation, agents stimulating angiogenesis, agents stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis, DNA repairing agents, DNA protecting agents, anti-stretch mark agents, agents regulating sebum production, agents stimulating healing, coadjuvant healing agents, reepithelializing agents, cytokine growth factors, agents acting on capillary circulation and/or microcirculation, and/or mixtures thereof.
13. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of claims 10 to 12, wherein said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant is of synthetic origin or is a plant extract, or it comes from a biofermentation process.
14. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one agent that increases the percutaneous absorption of mixed micelles.
15. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said application is performed by means of iontophoresis, sonophoresis, electroporation, micro-electric patches, mechanical pressure, osmotic pressure gradient, occlusive treatment, microinjections, needle-free injections by means of pressure or any combination thereof.
16. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is incorporated into an acceptable cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical sustained release system selected from the group consisting of milliparticles, microparticles, nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, sponges, cyclodextrines, vesicles, millispheres, microspheres, nanospheres, lipospheres, millicapsules, microcapsules and nanocapsules.
17. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, presented as cream, multiple emulsion, anhydrous composition, aqueous dispersion, oil, milk, balsam, foam, lotion, gel, hydroalcoholic solution, hydroglycolic solution, liniment, saline solution, soap, shampoo, conditioner, serum, polysaccharide film, unguent, mousse, ointment, powder, bar, pencil, aerosol, spray, leave-on and rinse-off formulation.
18. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said composition is incorporated into makeup foundations, makeup remover lotions, makeup remover milks, concealers, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip protectors, lip glosses, powders, nail polish, nail polish remover lotions or cuticle remover lotions.
19. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of claims 1 to 17, wherein said compositon is incorporated into a fabric, non-woven fabric or medical device.
20. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 19, wherein said fabric, non-woven fabric or medical device is selected from the group consisting of bandages, gauzes, undershirts, socks, stockings, T-shirts, girdles, gloves, diapers, sanitary napkins, dressings, bedcovers, wipes, hydrogels, adhesive patches, non- adhesive patches, microelectric patches and facial masks.
21. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
22. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 21 for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
23. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 22, wherein said conditions, disorders and/or pathologies are selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin and/or hair pigmentation disorders, skin dryness, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus.
24. Use of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the claims 1 to 20, in the preparation of a final cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for the treatment and/or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
25. Use according to claim 24, for the treatment and/or care of those conditions, disorders and/or pathologies associated with an excessive water loss and/or an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and/or nails.
26. Use according to claim 25, wherein said conditions, disorders and/or pathologies are selected from the group consisting of skin aging, skin and/or hair pigmentation disorders, skin dryness, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus.
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