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WO2008006739A1 - Composition améliorée éclaircissante pour la peau - Google Patents

Composition améliorée éclaircissante pour la peau Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2008006739A1
WO2008006739A1 PCT/EP2007/056691 EP2007056691W WO2008006739A1 WO 2008006739 A1 WO2008006739 A1 WO 2008006739A1 EP 2007056691 W EP2007056691 W EP 2007056691W WO 2008006739 A1 WO2008006739 A1 WO 2008006739A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin lightening
skin
composition
lightening composition
acid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2007/056691
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Prajkta Rupesh Rane
Vibhav Ramrao Sanzgiri
Simone Dosu Sethna
Pankaj Chandrakant Shah
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Unilever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to CN2007800264154A priority Critical patent/CN101489522B/zh
Priority to MX2009000424A priority patent/MX2009000424A/es
Publication of WO2008006739A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008006739A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a skin lightening composition and in particular to a skin lightening composition that is effective in providing a skin colour highly preferred by dark skinned consumers.
  • Skin lightening compositions generally contain sunscreens which maintain skin colour against the darkening effects of ultra-violet radiation and are based on materials which absorb these incident rays.
  • Skin lightening agents along with sunscreen compounds, both organic and inorganic in nature, both naturally occurring and synthetically prepared, have been combined in skin-lightening compositions to provide synergistic benefits.
  • the present inventors during the course of their intensive research in this area and their continued interactions with a large number of consumers of such products have found that consumers with different classes of skin colour have very different expectations of the skin type they aspire to achieve. Hence, the present inventors, in working towards producing products tailor-made to various segments of skin colours, have made this invention.
  • the present invention is specifically targeted to very dark skin coloured consumers who have a skin colour greater than 6 on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being very fair and 10 being the darkest).
  • US 2004/0223928 (The Procter & Gamble Company) describes a topical composition comprising gold-coloured particulates and silver coloured particulates wherein the composition when measured at 15° from specular 15 minutes after topical application of 2 ⁇ l/cm 2 in vivo, has a reflectance of less than 200 and and a delta E value of less than about 4.
  • vanishing cream bases Many consumers prefer the draggy sensorial and matty finish provided by vanishing cream bases.
  • the present inventors have found it is difficult to formulate the composition described in the above US patent application in skin lightening products having a cosmetic base high in fatty acid and/or soap e.g. vanishing cream base.
  • the pigments described therein interact with the fatty acid/soap thereby giving low stability.
  • formulations containing high amounts of fatty acid interact with the pigments altering the desired optical effects and therefore a carefully selective combination of colouring pigment and pearlescent pigment is required to get desired effect on skin.
  • the present inventors have evaluated a large number of alternative possibilities before arriving at the present invention which provides consumers, especially very dark skinned consumers, with the desired level of skin lightening while giving the aspirational level of skin glow and radiance and yellowish hue to the skin.
  • the inventors have further ensured that the ingredients added to achieve the present invention are suitably configured to minimize interaction with other possible ingredients of such formulations e.g. the organic sunscreens.
  • the present invention provides for a skin lightening composition
  • a skin lightening composition comprising
  • the invention relates to a skin lightening composition
  • a skin lightening composition comprising a yellow pigment.
  • the yellow pigment is generally present in an amount sufficient to provide a visually perceptible yellow colour to the composition.
  • the yellow hue is perceptible on the skin after the composition has been applied on the skin.
  • the yellow pigment is preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.05 to 2.3 % by weight of the composition.
  • the yellow pigment is preferably a metal oxide. Suitable metal oxides include titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or stannous oxide. Suitable non-metal oxide is silicon dioxide, alternately the yellow pigment is of organic origin.
  • the preferred metal oxide is iron oxide.
  • the iron oxide is preferably suitably coated or encapsulated to minimize interactions with other ingredients of the compostion.
  • butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold as Parsol 1789 (Givaudan) it interacts with iron oxide and produces an undesirable red colour.
  • the metal oxide particles are coated with materials like mica, silicones e.g. methyl hydrogen polysiloxanes, more preferably silicones.
  • Commercially available yellow pigments which may be used in the formulation include SI2 Yellow LLXLO (from Daito Kasei Kogyo Company, Japan), Bronze 43737 (from Sudarshan Chemicals, India), Tatrazine Yellow (from Davarson, India) or turmeric extract.
  • the composition of the invention comprises a pearlescent pigment.
  • the pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include a base material having a plate like structure e.g. mica.
  • the pearlescent pigment is preferably coated with one or more other coating materials. Suitable coating materials are metal oxides e.g. titanium dioxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide.
  • Mica which is the most preferred base material is a transparent mineral which is mined from the earth in thin sheets. It can be opalescent and sparkling or completely matte, ranging in color from grey to blue to green. It is often treated with iron oxides to yield brilliant color effects. Mica has a sheer, translucent and skin-hugging effect which causes the natural skin tone to shine through - A -
  • the preferred pearlescent pigment for the present invention is mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, most preferred being mica coated with both titanium dioxide and red iron oxide.
  • Commericially available pearlescent pigment as per the invention include Colorona Bright Gold (from Merck) or Cloissone Gold (Engelhard Corporation).
  • the pearlescent pigment is more preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 1 % by weight of the composition.
  • Cosmetic compostions to deliver different benefit agents are prepared using different cosmetically acceptable emulsifying systems and vehicles.
  • the cosmetically acceptable base comprises 5 to 25% fatty acid or 0.1 to 80% soap. Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g. vanishing cream base which gives a highly appreciated matty feel to the skin.
  • C 12 to C 2 0 fatty acids are especially preferred for the present invention, more preferred being Ci 4 to Ci 8 fatty acids.
  • the most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid.
  • the fatty acid in the composition is more preferably present in an amount in the range of 5 to 20% by weight of the composition.
  • Soaps in the vanishing cream base include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate.
  • the soap in the vanishing cream base is generally present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the vanishing cream base in cosmetic compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts. The soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.
  • the skin lightening composition is a wash off product e.g. soap having 5 to 80% salt of fatty acid.
  • the skin lightening composition of the invention comprises a skin lightening agent.
  • the skin lightening agent is preferably chosen from one or more of a vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid or niacinamide or other well known skin lightening agents e.g.
  • Vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid or niacinamide are the more preferred skin lightening agent as per the invention, most preferred being niacinamide.
  • Niacinamide when used, is preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the skin lightening composition preferably additionally comprises one or more UV sunscreens.
  • the UV sunscreens may be inorganic or organic.
  • UV-A / UV-B sunscreen agents include, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2- ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p- aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl- aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl- amino-benzoate, 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p- dimethyl
  • a safe and effective amount of sunscreen may be used in the compositions useful in the subject invention.
  • the composition preferably comprises from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5%, of a sunscreen agent.
  • Useful inorganic sun blocks are also preferably used in the present invention. These include, for example, zinc oxide iron oxide, silica, such as fumed silica, and titanium dioxide.
  • Ultrafine titanium dioxide in either of its two forms namely water-dispersible titanium dioxide and oil-dispersible titanium dioxide is especially suitable for the invention.
  • Water- dispersible titanium dioxide is an ultra-fine titanium dioxide, the particles of which are non- coated or which are coated with a material to impart a hydrophilic surface property to the particles. Examples of such materials include aluminium oxide and aluminium silicate.
  • Oil-dispersible titanium dioxide is an ultrafine titanium dioxide, the particles of which exhibit a hydrophobic surface property, and which, for this purpose, can be coated with metal soaps such as aluminium stearate, aluminium laurate or zinc stearate, or with organosilicone compounds.
  • ultra titanium dioxide particles of titanium dioxide having an average particle size of less than 100 nm, preferably 70 nm or less, more preferably from 10 to 40 nm and most preferably from 15 to 25 nm.
  • Ultrafine titanium dioxide is the preferred inorganic sun-block agent as per this invention.
  • the total amount of sun block that is preferably incorporated in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise other diluents.
  • the diluents act as a dispersant or carrier for other materials present in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • Diluents other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
  • Emollients include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n- butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate
  • Solvents include ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether.
  • Powders include chalk, talc, Fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminium silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and ethylene glycol monostearate.
  • the cosmetically acceptable base is usually from 10 to 99.9%, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise a wide range of other optional components.
  • CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook Second Edition, 1992, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety, describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. Examples include: antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, colorants, thickeners, polymers, astringents, fragrance, humectants, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, natural extracts, essential oils, skin sensates, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.
  • the composition is formulated in any known format, more preferred formats being creams or lotions. The invention is now further described by way of the following non-limiting examples.
  • a conventional skin lightening composition prepared using a vanishing cream base with the ingredients listed in table 1 was prepared.
  • a conventional skin lightening composition with no fatty acid was prepared (see table 1 )
  • Skin lightening compositions as per the invention containing a pearlescent pigment and a yellow pigment were prepared in a vanishing cream base (see table 1 ).
  • compositions of comparative examples A and B and examples 1 to 3 were used by about 5 to 32 very dark skinned consumers.
  • the protocol involved applying a measured quantity of the samples on their faces two times a day for seven days.
  • the consumers were asked to rate the products on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being most preferred), based on perception of glow and radiance on their face.
  • the average preference scores are summarized in table 1.
  • the individual typology angle (ITA 0 ) which is [ATan ((L * -50)/b * )]180/ was calculated based on the L * and b * values measured using the Minolta chromometer.
  • ITA 0 value was greater (corresponding to an optimal combination of whiteness and yellowness), the skin was also perceived to have a greater desired whiteness and yellow glow by the volunteers.
  • examples 1 , 4 and 5 have a desired balance of L * and b * values.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Les auteurs de la présente invention ont remarqué au cours de leur interaction prolongée avec les consommateurs que les personnes ayant une peau très foncée souhaitent qu'elle soit plus claire, avec un aspect éclatant et brillant avec une tonalité jaune. La présente invention concerne un composition éclaircissante pour la peau qui donne aux consommateurs ayant une peau très foncée l'éclat et la brillance désirés, cette composition étant stable pendant toute la durée de vie du produit. Une telle composition éclaircissante pour la peau contient (i) un agent éclaircissant de la peau ; (ii) de 0,01 à 3% de pigment perlé ; (iii) de 0,01 à 3% d'un pigment jaune ; et (iv) une base cosmétiquement acceptable contenant de 5 à 25% d'acide gras et/ou de 0,01 à 80% de savon.
PCT/EP2007/056691 2006-07-13 2007-07-03 Composition améliorée éclaircissante pour la peau WO2008006739A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN2007800264154A CN101489522B (zh) 2006-07-13 2007-07-03 改进的亮肤化妆品组合物
MX2009000424A MX2009000424A (es) 2006-07-13 2007-07-03 Composicion cosmetica aclaradora de la piel mejorada.

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN1109MU2006 2006-07-13
IN1109/MUM/2006 2006-07-13
EP06125447.0 2006-12-05
EP06125447 2006-12-05

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2008006739A1 true WO2008006739A1 (fr) 2008-01-17

Family

ID=38543999

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2007/056691 WO2008006739A1 (fr) 2006-07-13 2007-07-03 Composition améliorée éclaircissante pour la peau

Country Status (2)

Country Link
MX (1) MX2009000424A (fr)
WO (1) WO2008006739A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010000587A2 (fr) * 2008-06-30 2010-01-07 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmétiques contenant de la niacinamide, dotées de propriétés de toucher de peau améliorées
AU2011224036B1 (en) * 2011-07-07 2012-06-21 Elc Management Llc Methods and compositions useful for treating fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin
US9040056B2 (en) 2011-07-07 2015-05-26 Elc Management Llc Methods and compositions useful for treating Fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin
FR3044896A1 (fr) * 2015-12-15 2017-06-16 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins 10 % en poids d'un tensioactif anionique, un acide gras et un agent nacrant mineral

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1089208A2 (fr) * 1999-10-01 2001-04-04 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Méthode de sélection de produits de beauté
EP1433462A1 (fr) * 2002-12-24 2004-06-30 L'oreal Compositions de maquillage pour peaux foncées
US20040223928A1 (en) * 2003-05-08 2004-11-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions for skin
US20050079190A1 (en) * 2003-10-09 2005-04-14 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Skin radiance cosmetic compositions

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1089208A2 (fr) * 1999-10-01 2001-04-04 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Méthode de sélection de produits de beauté
EP1433462A1 (fr) * 2002-12-24 2004-06-30 L'oreal Compositions de maquillage pour peaux foncées
US20040223928A1 (en) * 2003-05-08 2004-11-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions for skin
US20050079190A1 (en) * 2003-10-09 2005-04-14 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Skin radiance cosmetic compositions

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010000587A2 (fr) * 2008-06-30 2010-01-07 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmétiques contenant de la niacinamide, dotées de propriétés de toucher de peau améliorées
WO2010000587A3 (fr) * 2008-06-30 2010-06-17 Unilever Plc Compositions cosmétiques contenant de la niacinamide, dotées de propriétés de toucher de peau améliorées
CN102076382A (zh) * 2008-06-30 2011-05-25 荷兰联合利华有限公司 防晒剂配方雪花膏
AU2009265855B2 (en) * 2008-06-30 2013-03-07 Unilever Plc Niacinamide containing cosmetic compositions with improved skinfeel properties
KR101548405B1 (ko) 2008-06-30 2015-08-28 유니레버 엔.브이. 피부감이 개선된 니아신아미드 함유 화장품 조성물
AU2011224036B1 (en) * 2011-07-07 2012-06-21 Elc Management Llc Methods and compositions useful for treating fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin
US9040056B2 (en) 2011-07-07 2015-05-26 Elc Management Llc Methods and compositions useful for treating Fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin
FR3044896A1 (fr) * 2015-12-15 2017-06-16 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins 10 % en poids d'un tensioactif anionique, un acide gras et un agent nacrant mineral

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Publication number Publication date
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