WO2006008616A1 - Composition cosmetique structuree - Google Patents
Composition cosmetique structuree Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2006008616A1 WO2006008616A1 PCT/IB2005/001975 IB2005001975W WO2006008616A1 WO 2006008616 A1 WO2006008616 A1 WO 2006008616A1 IB 2005001975 W IB2005001975 W IB 2005001975W WO 2006008616 A1 WO2006008616 A1 WO 2006008616A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- nonpigmentary
- side chain
- melting
- crystallizable side
- Prior art date
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- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 125000005474 octanoate group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940077397 octyldodecyl lactate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000006353 oxyethylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000004806 packaging method and process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002942 palmitic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- GOZDOXXUTWHSKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentadecyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C=C GOZDOXXUTWHSKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical class OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pent‐4‐en‐2‐one Natural products CC(=O)CC=C PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005191 phase separation Methods 0.000 description 1
- ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenylbenzene Natural products C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052698 phosphorus Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000010399 physical interaction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010773 plant oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002189 poly(glycerol 1-O-monomethacrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002401 polyacrylamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010491 poppyseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- TVRGPOFMYCMNRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N quinizarine green ss Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1NC(C=1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C=11)=CC=C1NC1=CC=C(C)C=C1 TVRGPOFMYCMNRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010493 quinoa oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004172 quinoline yellow Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940051201 quinoline yellow Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012752 quinoline yellow Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010526 radical polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012429 reaction media Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035945 sensitivity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008247 solid mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- LJFWQNJLLOFIJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N solvent violet 13 Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1NC1=CC=C(O)C2=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C2=O LJFWQNJLLOFIJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003408 sphingolipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003440 styrenes Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940073450 sudan red Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrafluoroethene Chemical group FC(F)=C(F)F BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010257 thawing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-crotonic acid Natural products CC=CC(O)=O LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940118576 triisostearyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris-decyl benzene-1,2,4-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)=C1 SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a nonfluid care and/or treatment and/or makeup composition for the skin, including the scalp, and/or the lips, of the human face, comprising at least one structured liquid fatty phase.
- the cosmetic compositions thus prepared are also not entirely satisfactory. They may in particular show large sensitivity to temperature variations, and especially in the range of "high temperatures", i.e. above about 30 0 C, and may then become subject to the phenomenon of exudation of the oily phase at the surface of the compositions. Similarly, certain sticks may, after having been subjected to significant temperature variations, especially of the order of 15 to 20 0 C, become unslippery and dry, and thus give a matt film. Consequently, there is still at the present time a need for cosmetic compositions that have satisfactory stability, especially with regard to significant temperature variations, and which are moreover satisfactory in terms of cosmetic quality, for instance gloss and migration resistance.
- the subject of the invention is, specifically, a care and/or makeup and/or treatment composition for keratin materials, for instance the skin and/or the lips of the face, for satisfying all of the requirements mentioned above.
- the invention relates to a nonfluid cosmetic composition
- a nonfluid cosmetic composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase containing at least an effective amount of at least one semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s), at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler and at least one nonpigmentary organic filler.
- nonfluid means any cosmetic composition lacking the ability to flow under the action of its own weight.
- this type of cosmetic composition is also termed a “cast composition” as opposed to “fluid” compositions. These compositions are characterized by a pasty appearance at room temperature (20-25°C).
- a cosmetic composition may be in accordance with the invention provided that it has a melting point of greater than 25°C, especially ranging from 25 to 6O 0 C and in particular ranging from 30 to 45°C and/or a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa and especially ranging from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.
- the composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a cream. It may be a simple emulsion of oil-in-water or water-in-oil type or a multiple emulsion, or a solid or soft gel. It is preferably in anhydrous form and more especially in the form of an anhydrous gel, especially cast in stick or dish form.
- the present invention is directed toward covering a lipstick comprising at least one liquid fatty phase containing at least an effective amount of at least one semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s), at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler and at least one nonpigmentary organic filler.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating the skin or the lips of the human face, comprising the application to the skin or the lips of the human face of a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention.
- the present invention is also directed toward protecting the use of at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler and at least one nonpigmentary organic filler, in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least an effective amount of at least one semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s), and having improved stability with regard to exudation.
- the inventors have thus found, surprisingly, that the use of two nonpigmentary fillers of defined nature, i.e. one organic and the other mineral, allows the production of nonfluid cosmetic compositions, especially in stick form, whose application to the skin and in particular the lips gives a glossy, comfortable, nontacky film with good coverage, which does not migrate, while at the same time showing good resistance to significant temperature variations, at high temperatures, especially above about 30 0 C, as is illustrated in the examples.
- the combination of semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) with at least one nonpigmentary organic filler and at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler makes it possible to give the composition good stability over time and with respect to temperature.
- the incorporation of at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler and of at least one nonpigmentary organic filler makes it possible to improve the resistance with respect to significant temperature variations or with respect to a given temperature, especially above 30°C. This resistance is reflected especially by improved stability with regard to exudation.
- the stability with regard to exudation (or syneresis) of the composition according to the invention is evaluated by placing the composition in an oven for eight weeks at 25°C. In this test, the physical appearance of the sample is monitored at the time that it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then monitored at 24 hours, at three days, at one week, at two weeks, at four weeks and finally at eight weeks.
- the stability may also be evaluated by repeating the eight-week cycle in the oven at 4°C, 37°C, 45°C or 50°C, and under freezing/thawing conditions.
- the sample is monitored as regards its physical appearance, its form (it is examined to see whether it folds, if the composition is in the form of a tube or wand of lipstick, or whether it twists), phase separation, melting or syneresis (exudation).
- the terms “syneresis” and “exudation” are used interchangeably and correspond to the appearance of droplets, which are visible to the naked eye, at the surface of the composition.
- the term “filler” denotes solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, even at temperatures that may be up to the melting point of all the fatty substances of the composition.
- the fillers used according to the invention are colorless or white, i.e. nonpigmentary, i.e. they are not used to give the composition according to the invention a particular color or shade, even if their use may inherently lead to such a result.
- organic pigmentary materials for instance carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum
- mineral pigmentary materials for instance titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, which are, themselves, used to give a shade and coloring effect to the compositions in which they are incorporated.
- nonpigmentary fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous form, or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms.
- the form of the particles of the same filler may be homogeneous, i.e. the particles are predominantly present in only one type of form, or heterogeneous, i.e. the particles are present in a set of varied forms.
- the form of particles of different fillers may be homogeneous or heterogeneous.
- the form of the particles of the fillers is chosen by a person skilled in the art so as to ensure their good dispersion in the composition.
- the size of the particles i.e. their granulometry, is chosen so as to ensure good dispersion of the fillers in the composition according to the invention.
- the granulometry of the particles may be distributed in the range from 5 ⁇ m to 10 nm and in particular from 10 ⁇ m to 10 nm.
- the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
- the amounts of the nonpigmentary mineral and organic fillers are adjusted taking into account the amount of the semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s), so as to contribute toward the desired hardness and to ensure the stability of the compositions as a function of the specific applications envisioned.
- This amount may especially range from 0.1% to 10% and in particular from 2% to 7% relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the weight ratio of fillers/polymers is less than 1, or even less than or equal to 0.9 and in particular less than or equal to 0.6.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler and at least one nonpigmentary organic filler present in a weight ratio that is within the range from 1:1 to 10:1, in particular from 2:1 to 6:1 and more particularly from 3:1 to 5:1.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonpigmentary mineral filler chosen from the group comprising kaolin, silica and bentone, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention comprises a nonpigmentary mineral filler in a proportion of from 0.1% to 15%, in particular from 1% to 10% and more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Organic fillers are polyamide powder
- organic fillers are different than the pigments.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonpigmentary organic filler chosen from the group comprising Nylon ® , Polytrap or acrylate copolymers such as Polytrap 603 sold by Lambert Riviere (or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), PMMA and 12-hydroxy- stearic acid oligomer stearate (Octacare DSI OL300 from Avecia), and mixtures thereof.
- nonpigmentary organic filler chosen from the group comprising Nylon ® , Polytrap or acrylate copolymers such as Polytrap 603 sold by Lambert Riviere (or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), PMMA and 12-hydroxy- stearic acid oligomer stearate (Octacare DSI OL300 from Avecia), and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention comprises a nonpigmentary organic filler in an amount of from 0.01% to 5%, in particular from 0.1% to 3% and more particularly from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- a nonpigmentary organic and mineral fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the mixture of kaolin, of 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate, for instance the product sold under the name Octacare DSP OL300 from Avecia, and of an acrylate copolymer (for instance ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer) in a 4:2:1 ratio, in particular in a 4.5:4:1 ratio, in particular in a 4:4:1 ratio and more particularly in a 4.5:2:1 ratio.
- One or more dispersants may be used, where appropriate, to protect the dispersed fillers or particles against aggregation or flocculation. They may be
- the concentration of dispersants is chosen so as to obtain satisfactory dispersion of the solid particles (without flocculation) and especially a stable colloidal dispersion of particles. It should be adapted as a function of the total amount of fillers to be introduced into the composition. It may be from 0.3 to 5 mg/m 2 and in particular from 0.5 to 4 mg/m 2 of surface area of particles.
- This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed.
- poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) esters are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 ® by the company Avecia, esters of poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) with polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymuls PGPH ® by the company Henkel (or diglyceryl poly(12-hydroxystearate)) 5 or alternatively poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel PlOO by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
- dispersants that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensate fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 ® sold by the company Avecia, and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
- polymers means compounds comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and more especially at least ten repeating units.
- silica polymer means polymers comprising at least one crystallizable side chain with a temperature of first-order reversible phase change, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition).
- crystallizable chain means a chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and which, if it were alone, would change reversibly from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, depending on whether the system is above or below the melting point.
- a chain is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer skeleton.
- composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) and in particular at least one low-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) (also known as the first polymer), combined with at least one high-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) (also known as the second polymer).
- These polymers in particular have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive the composition and more especially keratin materials, for instance the lips or the skin, including the scalp.
- organic compound of organic structure
- organic chain mean compounds or chains containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and possibly hetero atoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.
- the semicrystalline polymer(s) or compound(s) with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) with a melting point m.p.2 of less than 50°C will be referred to as "low-melting semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s)” and the semicrystalline polymer(s) or compound(s) with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) with a melting point m.p.l of greater than or equal to 50 0 C will be referred to as "high- melting semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s)".
- This melting point (m.p.) may be measured by any known method and in particular with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one low-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) with a melting point of less than 50°C and in particular in a range from 30°C to less than 50°C.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one high-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) with a melting point at least equal to or greater than 5O 0 C, in particular in a range from 55 to 160°C and more particularly in a range from 60 to 130 0 C.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least one low- melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) and of at least one high-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s).
- the structuring or gelation of the liquid fatty phase according to the invention is due to crystallization of the semicrystalline polymer(s) with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) in the liquid fatty phase, possibly combined with one or more crystalline compounds, and is not in any way a matter of physical interaction of the dipole or hydrogen type between polymer chains.
- the semicrystalline polymers to which the invention applies especially comprise a polymer skeleton and at least one crystallizable organic side chain.
- the semicrystalline p ⁇ lymer(s) with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) to which the invention applies advantageously has (have) a number-average molecular mass of greater than 2000.
- the high-melting semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) that may be used in the invention are in particular semicrystalline polymers of organic structure, which are solid at room temperature and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 50°C, comprising a polymeric organic skeleton and at least one crystallizable organic side chain and having a number-average molecular mass of greater than 2000.
- the (high-melting or low-melting) semicrystalline polymer(s) of the composition of the invention comprise(s) a number-average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2000 to 800 000 and preferably from 3000 to 500 000, for example from 4000 to 150 000, and especially less than 100 000, and better still from 4000 to 99 000.
- Mn number-average molecular mass
- they have a number-average molecular mass of greater than 5600, for example ranging from 5700 to 99 000.
- the semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention serving as structuring agent are nondeformable solids at room temperature (about 20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). They are capable of structuring, alone or as a mixture, the composition without addition of a particular surfactant, or of filler or wax.
- the low-melting semicrystalline polymers and/or the high-melting compounds are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point.
- the polymer blocks are amorphous, hi particular, the polymer skeleton of the semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the liquid fatty phase.
- the high-melting semicrystalline compound(s) is (are) advantageously polymers with a melting point m.p.l such that 50°C ⁇ m.p.l ⁇ 150°C, in particular 55°C ⁇ m.p.l ⁇ 15O 0 C and more particularly 60°C ⁇ m.p.l ⁇ 13O 0 C, and the low-melting polymers advantageously have a melting point m.p.2 such that 30°C ⁇ m.p.2 ⁇ 50°C and in particular 35°C ⁇ m.p.2 ⁇ 45°C.
- This melting point is a temperature of first- order change of state.
- the low-melting polymers have a melting point m.p.2 at least equal to the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive the composition according to the invention.
- the crystallizable chain(s) of the semicrystalline polymers represent(s) at least 30% and better still at least 40% of the total weight of each polymer.
- the polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) according to the invention is (are) advantageously in random form.
- the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
- the crystallizable units (chains) of the semicrystalline polymers according to the invention are derived from monomer(s) with crystallizable chain(s), used for the manufacture of the semicrystalline polymers.
- the low-melting semicrystalline polymer and the high-melting semicrystalline polymer are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit.
- the semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention are in particular:
- these polymers are chosen especially from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by formula X: — M ⁇
- - M represents an atom of the polymer skeleton
- S represents a spacer
- C represents a crystallizable group
- the crystallizable chains “-S-C” may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated.
- S especially represents a group (CHa) n or (CH 2 CH 2 O) n or (CH 2 O), which may be linear or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22.
- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 22.
- S is a linear group.
- “S” and “C” are different.
- the crystallizable chains are hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 24 carbon atoms. They are especially aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C 14 -C 24 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least 6 fluorinated carbon atoms and especially at least 11 carbon atoms, at least 6 of which carbon atoms are fluorinated.
- semicrystalline polymers or copolymers containing crystallizable chain(s) mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: (meth)acrylates of saturated alkyls with the alkyl group being C 14 -C 24 , perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C 11 -C 15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylarnides with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14 to C 24 ⁇ -olefins,
- the hydrocarbon-based and/or fluorinated crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
- a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
- the polymers that are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization: ⁇ ) of Y which is a polar or nonpolar monomer or a mixture of the two:
- Y when Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylene groups (especially oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), a hydroxyalkyl
- (meth)acrylate for instance hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an N- alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example, N 5 N- diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for instance (meth)acrylic acids, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.
- NRP N-vinylpyrrolidone
- Y when Y is a nonpolar monomer, it may be an ester of the linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an ⁇ -olefm, styrene or styrene substituted with a C 1 to C 1O alkyl group, for instance ⁇ -methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type containing vinyl unsaturation.
- alkyl means a saturated group especially of C 8 to C 24 and in particular of C 14 to C 24 , except where otherwise mentioned.
- ⁇ ) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers.
- Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above.
- the semicrystalline polymers containing (a) crystallizable side chain(s) are alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above, and especially of C 14 -C 24 , copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature than (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N- vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
- the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C 14 to C 24 alkyl (meth)acrylates, C 11 to C 15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C 14 to C 24 N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing C 14 to C 24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C 14 to C 24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C 14 to C 24 ⁇ -olefms, para- alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C 1 to C 10 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula:
- R 1 is H or CH 3
- R represents an optionally fluorinated C 1 -C 10 alkyl group
- X represents O, NH or NR 2 in which R 2 represents an optionally fluorinated C 1 -C 10 alkyl group.
- the polymer is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain, chosen from saturated C 14 to C 22 alkyl (meth)acrylates.
- the low-melting semicrystalline polymers are especially those described in examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of patent US-A-5 156 911 containing a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of a C 5 to C 16 alkyl (meth)acrylate with an m.p.2 ranging from 20 0 C to 35°C, and more particularly from the copolymerization: - of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl acrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio,
- low-melting semicrystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or NVP as described in document US-A-5 519 063 and more especially those described in examples 1 and 2 of patent application EP 1 262 163, with respective melting points of 40°C and 38°C.
- the high-melting semicrystalline polymers are especially Intelimer described in the document "Intelimer ® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev 4.97) with a melting point m.p.l of 56°C, which is an impermeable, nontacky viscous product at room temperature.
- the structuring of the fatty phase may advantageously be modified as a function of the nature of the polymers and their respective concentrations, and may be such that a rigid structure in the form of a wand or a tube is obtained.
- the amount of polymer(s) is adjusted so as to give the composition under consideration the desired hardness and as a function of the particular application envisioned.
- compositions according to the present invention which are especially in the form of a tube or wand of lipstick, may be, for example, from 30 gf to 300 gf, in particular from 30 gf to 250 gf and more particularly from 30 gf to 200 gf.
- the hardness may be measured according to the "cheese wire” method, which consists in cutting tubes 12.7 mm in diameter of the composition and measuring its hardness at 20°C using a DFGHS2 force gauge from the company Indelco-Chatillon Co. traveling at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
- the value of the hardness measured by this method is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gram-force) required to cut a tube under these conditions. It is, however, possible to use an amount of semicrystalline polymer such that the composition is in the form of a soft paste that may be applied to the keratin materials by finger or using an applicator.
- the composition according to the invention may be in cast form.
- the total amount of semicrystalline polymer represents from 0.1% to 80%, better still from 0.5% to 40% and even better still from 3% to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a high- melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) and a low-melting semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) in a weight ratio in the range from 10/90 to 90/10 and in particular from 40/60 to 60/40.
- the weight ratio of semicrystalline polymers with (a) crystallizable side chain(s) relative to the liquid fatty phase is from 0.20 to 0.60 and better still from 0.25 to 0.50, in order to obtain a hard stick that disintegrates on contact with the skin or the lips and in particular with a hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf.
- liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (20-25 0 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more mutually compatible fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also known as oils.
- This fatty phase is macroscopically homogeneous and constitutes the continuous phase of the composition.
- the liquid fatty phase structured with the semicrystalline polymer(s) and in which are dispersed the nonpigmentary organic and mineral fillers may comprise one or more cosmetically and dermatologically acceptable oils, and in general physiologically acceptable oils, chosen especially from carbon-based oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, fluoro oils and/or silicone oils, of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, alone or as mixtures provided that they form a stable homogeneous mixture and that they are compatible with the intended use.
- the oil(s) of which the fatty phase is composed may also be selected on the basis of its (their) polar or apolar properties.
- hydrocarbon-based oils means oils predominantly containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and in particular alkyl or alkenyl chains, for instance alkanes or alkenes, but also oils containing alkyl or alkenyl chains comprising ether, ester, hydroxyl or carboxylic acid groups. It is possible to add to the apolar oils polar oils, or apolar oils serving especially as cosolvent for the polar oils.
- oils of animal origin for instance perhydrosqualene, squalane, mink oil or turtle oil, or mixtures thereof;
- liquid linear or branched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin for instance liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof or petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (such as Parleam ® , a hydrogenated isoparaffin sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats), isododecane, polydecenes or Isopars, and isoparaffins; linear or cyclic, volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes that are liquid at room temperature, comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl PDMSs such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyl dimethyl trisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
- esters of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, such as purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, palmitates, adipates and benzoates, especially diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diiso
- the liquid fatty phase that is suitable for use in the compositions in accordance with the invention is advantageously chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutene, triisocetyl citrate, isononyl isononanoate and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5% to 99% and preferably from 20% to 80% of the total weight of the composition. It advantageously represents at least 60% of the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one volatile oil.
- volatile oil means any nonaqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mrnHg).
- these volatile oils especially facilitate the application of the composition to the skin or the lips.
- These volatile oils are favorable toward obtaining a film with total "transfer-resistance" properties. After evaporation of these oils, a flexible film-forming deposit that is not tacky on the skin and mucous membranes, which follows the movements of the skin or, respectively, the lips onto which the composition is applied, is obtained.
- These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, or a mixture of these oils.
- the volatile oils are cosmetic oils chosen from oils that do not have a flash point, oils with a flash point ranging from 40°C to 100 0 C, and mixtures thereof, so as to facilitate their use.
- they advantageously have a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 22O 0 C and better still less than 210°C, especially ranging
- volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisilox- ane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, deca- methyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes for instance isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane
- Isopar and Permethyl oils sold under the trade names Isopar and Permethyl
- C 8 -C 16 branched esters for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixture
- Isododecane Permethyl 99 A
- C 8 -C 16 isoparaffms for instance Isopar L, E, G or H, and mixtures thereof, optionally combined with decamethyltetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane, are preferably used.
- Volatile fluoro oils may also be used. These volatile oils especially represent from 5% to 97.5% of the total weight of the composition, better still from 10% to 75% and in particular from 30% to 75% of the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of volatile solvent used is an amount that is sufficient to obtain "transfer- resistance” properties. This amount will be adapted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the desired intensity of the "transfer-resistance" properties.
- the volatile oil in particular represents 20% to 50%, preferably from 30% to 40% and in particular about 35% by weight of the composition.
- the volatile oil in particular represents 40% to 60% and in particular from 45% to 55% of the liquid fatty phase.
- the weight ratio of volatile oil relative to the semicrystalline polymer is advantageously between 1 and 2.5 and preferably from 1.5 to 2.
- Solid fatty phase The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the liquid fatty phase in which the polymer(s) is (are) stabilized, a solid fatty phase that may be chosen from waxes, gums and/or pasty fatty substances, of plant, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or even silicone origin, and mixtures thereof.
- a "pasty fatty substance” is a viscous product containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the term "pasty fatty substance” means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C and in particular from 25 to 45°C and/or a viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises) and in particular from 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or a Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
- a person skilled in the art may select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the viscosity of the pasty compound tested.
- the melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured by the "Differential Scanning Calorimetry" method with a temperature rise of 5 or lO°C/minute.
- one or more pasty fatty substances are used.
- these fatty substances are hydrocarbon-based compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly ester groups), optionally of polymeric type; they may also be chosen from silicone and/or fluoro compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro compounds.
- the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds are preferably used in major proportion.
- lanolins and lanolin derivatives for instance acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, with a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s and preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point of from 30 to 55°C, and mixtures thereof.
- Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used, especially those containing 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point from about 20 to 35°C and/or viscosity at 4O 0 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), for instance triisostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, for instance triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters, for instance poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof.
- Triglycerides of plant origin include hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as "Thixinr" from Rheox.
- silicone-based pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and having a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.
- PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
- the pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in a proportion of from 0.5% to
- Waxes At least one wax or a mixture of waxes such as those used to date in cosmetics may also be used in the composition of the invention.
- a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound, which is solid at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 rnmHg), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than 40 0 C, in particular greater than 45°C and better still greater than 50 0 C, which may be up to 200°C, and which has an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
- the size of the crystals is such that the crystals scatter and/or diffuse light, giving the composition a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
- the composition contains little or no conventional waxes, especially less than 20% by weight and better still less than 10% by weight of conventional wax relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the conventional waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are especially of natural origin, for instance beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, macrocrystalline waxes with a melting point > 55°C, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, and hydrogenated oils, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin, for instance the polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, and the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis with a melting point > 55°C, hydrogenated oils, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 55°C, and silicone waxes, for instance alkyl, alkoxy and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane that are solid at 55°C.
- natural origin for instance beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, our
- the waxes may be present in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles such that they may be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice, L. M. Prince, published by Academic Press (1977, pages 21-32)".
- wax that is liquid at room temperature mention may be made of jojoba oil.
- Aqueous phase may also comprise water or a mixture of water and of hydrophilic organic solvents, for instance linear or branched lower alcohols and especially monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols, for instance glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
- the hydrophilic phase may also contain hydrophilic C 2 ethers and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
- the aqueous phase may essentially be water.
- the water or the mixture of water and of hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 90% (especially 0.1% to 90%) by weight, in particular from 0 to 70% by weight (especially 0.1% to 70% by weight) and more particularly from 0 to 60% by weight (especially 0.1% to 60% by weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition may contain, for example, a continuous fatty phase that may contain less than 10% by weight of water, especially less than 5% by weight of water or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to its total weight.
- the composition according to the invention is in anhydrous form.
- anhydrous composition means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, in particular less than 2% and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen from dyestuffs that are soluble in the medium, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers and surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
- additives may be present in the composition in the amounts generally used in cosmetics and dermatology, and especially in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% and better still from 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dyestuff.
- composition according to the invention also contains at least one dyestuff chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition contains a dyestuff that may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof.
- This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 40%, more particularly from 5% to 25%, especially from 0.01% to 20% and in particular from 0.1% to 10%, if it is present, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises a dyestuff in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% of the total weight of the composition.
- the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5 or quinoline yellow. They may represent from 0 to 20% (0.001 % to 20%) and better still from 0.1% to 6% of the weight of the composition (if present).
- the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue, and may represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
- the pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated.
- mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
- organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
- the pigments may represent from 0 to 50% (0.01% to 50%), preferably from 0.5% to 40% and better still from 2% to 25% of the total weight of the composition (if present).
- the nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated especially with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride or interference pigments, especially liquid-crystal interference pigments or multilayer interference pigments. They may represent from 0 to 20% (0.05% to 20%) and better still from 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition (if present).
- the pigments and nacres are introduced into the composition in the form of a pigmentary paste.
- the pigments may or may not be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the pigment in the composition.
- composition according to the invention may also contain cosmetic, dermatological or hygiene active agents.
- cosmetic, dermatological or hygiene active agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of cosmetic oils, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sunscreens, antioxidants, antiacne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, tanning agents (in the absence of UV), depigmenting agents and matting agents, and mixtures thereof.
- moisturizers that may be mentioned are glycerol, polyglyceryl methacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and polyol or sugar esters. These active agents are used in an amount that is usual for those skilled in the art, and especially in concentrations of from 0.001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may be manufactured via known processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.
- they may be manufactured according to a process that includes heating the mixture of the liquid fatty phase and of the semicrystalline polymer at least to its melting point, adding the nonpigmentary mineral and organic fillers and, where appropriate, the optional amphiphilic compound(s), dyestuffs that are soluble in the medium, pigmentary pastes and additives, and then mixing everything together until a solution is obtained.
- the homogeneous mixture obtained may then be cast in a suitable mold, for instance a lipstick mold, or directly into the packaging articles (especially a case or dish).
- the nonpigmentary organic and mineral fillers may be introduced either directly in the form of a mixture, or one after the other, or in the form of a colloidal dispersion that may contain a nonpigmentary mineral or organic filler or a mixture of nonpigmentary mineral and/or organic fillers.
- these nonpigmentary organic and mineral particles or fillers are introduced into the composition in the form of a colloidal dispersion, known as a "particulate paste", i.e. a concentrated colloidal dispersion of coated or uncoated solid fillers or particles, in a continuous medium, surface-stabilized with the aid of a dispersant or, optionally, without dispersant.
- a colloidal dispersion known as a "particulate paste”
- a concentrated colloidal dispersion of coated or uncoated solid fillers or particles in a continuous medium, surface-stabilized with the aid of a dispersant or, optionally, without dispersant.
- the nonfluid cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty phase and contains, as semicrystalline polymer with (a) crystallizable side chain(s), a mixture of polystearyl acrylate and of polybehenyl acrylate, kaolin as nonpigmentary mineral filler, and, as nonpigmentary organic filler, a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate and of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
- composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological composition or a skincare and/or lipcare composition or in the form of an antisun composition, a facial care or body care composition or a body hygiene composition, especially in the form of a deodorant.
- compositions may be lip makeup products, but also care and/or treatment products for the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, for instance daily care creams, lip balms, lipsticks, lip glosses, lip pencils and antisun products for facial skin or the lips, skin makeup products for either the human face or body, for instance foundations cast especially in stick or dish form, concealer products, makeup rouges, skin coloring products and temporary tattoo products, body hygiene products, for instance deodorants, especially in stick form, and eye makeup products, for instance eyeliners, in particular in the form of pencils, mascaras, especially in the form of cakes, or eyeshadows.
- composition of the invention is in the form of a makeup product for keratin materials and more especially a lipstick.
- the invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow. The amounts are given as percentages by mass.
- Example I Lipstick formula Four compositions of lipstick type are prepared. The compositions corresponding to formula 2 or 4 are in accordance with the present invention.
- compositions prepared on the basis of formula 1 or 3 correspond to formulations of the prior art and were produced for comparative purposes.
- Trigonox 141 [2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)- 2,5-dimethylhexane] .
- a mixture C 2 consisting of:
- the mixture is stirred for 3 hours at 80 0 C, and all of the cyclohexane present in the reaction medium is then distilled off at atmospheric pressure.
- the polymer is thus obtained at an active material concentration of 60% by weight in Parleam. Its weight-average molecular mass is from 17 000 to 27 000 and its m.p. is 58°C.
- Formulation B is a composition in accordance with the invention, whereas formulation A is a control composition.
- the lipsticks were prepared according to the procedure described in example I. After exposure for 24 hours to room temperature, the control lipstick shows exudation as a trickle and as large droplets on the stick.
- the tube of lipstick made with the formulation in accordance with the present invention after exposure to room temperature for 24 hours, has a smooth glossy appearance, with no trace of exudation.
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Abstract
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0451525A FR2873027A1 (fr) | 2004-07-13 | 2004-07-13 | Composition cosmetique structuree |
FR0451525 | 2004-07-13 | ||
US59162004P | 2004-07-28 | 2004-07-28 | |
US60/591,620 | 2004-07-28 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2006008616A1 true WO2006008616A1 (fr) | 2006-01-26 |
Family
ID=35784907
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/IB2005/001975 WO2006008616A1 (fr) | 2004-07-13 | 2005-07-12 | Composition cosmetique structuree |
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WO (1) | WO2006008616A1 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013131107A1 (fr) * | 2012-03-02 | 2013-09-06 | Amcol International Corporation | Compositions présentant des propriétés de réduction de la transpiration |
Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2824263A1 (fr) * | 2001-05-04 | 2002-11-08 | Oreal | Composition a phase grasse liquide gelifiee par un polymere semi-cristallin, contenant une pate particulaire |
US20030003154A1 (en) * | 2001-05-04 | 2003-01-02 | L'oreal | Composition comprising at least one first semi-crystalline polymer and at least one second film-forming polymer |
FR2834917A1 (fr) * | 2002-01-24 | 2003-07-25 | Oreal | Stick demaquillant gelifie par un polymere semi-cristallin |
EP1332753A2 (fr) * | 2002-01-24 | 2003-08-06 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique gélifiée par un polymère semi-cristallin |
FR2844185A1 (fr) * | 2002-09-06 | 2004-03-12 | Oreal | Composition de maquillage des fibres keratiniques presentant un extrait sec en solides eleve combine a un profil adhesif particulier |
EP1430868A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-06-23 | L'oreal | Composition de revêtement des fibres kératiniques présentant un caractère filant |
-
2005
- 2005-07-12 WO PCT/IB2005/001975 patent/WO2006008616A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2824263A1 (fr) * | 2001-05-04 | 2002-11-08 | Oreal | Composition a phase grasse liquide gelifiee par un polymere semi-cristallin, contenant une pate particulaire |
US20030003154A1 (en) * | 2001-05-04 | 2003-01-02 | L'oreal | Composition comprising at least one first semi-crystalline polymer and at least one second film-forming polymer |
FR2834917A1 (fr) * | 2002-01-24 | 2003-07-25 | Oreal | Stick demaquillant gelifie par un polymere semi-cristallin |
EP1332753A2 (fr) * | 2002-01-24 | 2003-08-06 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique gélifiée par un polymère semi-cristallin |
FR2844185A1 (fr) * | 2002-09-06 | 2004-03-12 | Oreal | Composition de maquillage des fibres keratiniques presentant un extrait sec en solides eleve combine a un profil adhesif particulier |
EP1430868A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-06-23 | L'oreal | Composition de revêtement des fibres kératiniques présentant un caractère filant |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2013131107A1 (fr) * | 2012-03-02 | 2013-09-06 | Amcol International Corporation | Compositions présentant des propriétés de réduction de la transpiration |
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