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WO2006066642A1 - Shampooing modifiant la couleur des cheveux - Google Patents

Shampooing modifiant la couleur des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006066642A1
WO2006066642A1 PCT/EP2005/009795 EP2005009795W WO2006066642A1 WO 2006066642 A1 WO2006066642 A1 WO 2006066642A1 EP 2005009795 W EP2005009795 W EP 2005009795W WO 2006066642 A1 WO2006066642 A1 WO 2006066642A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
hair
alcohol
preferred
acids
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PCT/EP2005/009795
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Dieter Goddinger
Thomas Schröder
Original Assignee
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Publication date
Application filed by Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien filed Critical Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority to EP05786303A priority Critical patent/EP1827354A1/fr
Publication of WO2006066642A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006066642A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a keratin fiber-changing keratin fiber treatment agent, in particular hair color-changing hair treatment agent, which is applied in the form of a foam on the keratin fibers, in particular hair, and a method for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular hair.
  • human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures, and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with colorants, tinting agents, waving agents and styling agents.
  • means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. They may be used to slightly or more intensely nuance the natural hair color according to the desires and needs of the individual, to achieve a completely different hair color, or to mask unwanted color tones, such as shades of gray.
  • bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with each other or under coupling with a or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • the oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must usually be used.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. The dye molecules are attached to the cuticle of the hair and are washed away after 6 to 8 washes. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair.
  • Good dyes are characterized by a high color strength. Furthermore, good welding, heat, perming, washing and light fastness are desired. Furthermore, they should be safe in terms of toxicology and dermatology. It is also from Advantage, if the substances have a high solubility in various base formulations.
  • combination preparations have been developed in the field of hair cosmetics, in order to reduce the expense of conventional multistage processes, in particular in the case of direct application by the consumer.
  • These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for cleaning the hair, additional active ingredients that were formerly reserved for hair aftertreatment agents or hair dyes. The consumer thus saves an application step.
  • hair color changing shampoos with which it is possible to change the hair color during shampooing.
  • hair color changing shampoos with which it is possible to change the hair color during shampooing.
  • special blond shampoos to give bleached hair additional color reflexes, or so-called silver reflex shampoos to take the unwanted yellowish tinge of gray hair.
  • Such combination preparations of shampoo and colorant also known as dyeing shampoo, usually contain direct dyes as colorants.
  • concentration of substantive dyes is relatively high in these products due to the combination application with a shampoo.
  • This object is achieved by providing a keratin fiber-color-changing keratin fiber treatment agent, in particular a hair treatment agent, which is applied in the form of a foam to the keratin fibers.
  • emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 3 and 10, with values of 5 to 8 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used.
  • acids are used as acids.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, triisopropanolamine, and N 5 N 5 N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. These bases also optionally neutralize or partially neutralize, if necessary, fixing and / or fixing polymers used in the compositions.
  • the preparation of the erf ⁇ ndungszelen composition as a lotion, as an aerosol, as a non-aerosol spray lotion, which by means of a mechanical device for Spraying is used, as an aerosol foam or as a non-aerosol foam, which is present in combination with a suitable mechanical device for foaming the composition, is erfmdungswash preferred.
  • a use in the form of a thickened with a conventional thickener aqueous lotion is possible, although not preferred according to the invention.
  • a very particularly preferred form of application is an aerosol and / or non-aerosol spray application.
  • the agent according to the invention is sprayed by means of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device.
  • mechanical spraying devices are meant those devices which allow the spraying of a liquid without the use of a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spraying device for example, a spray pump or provided with a spray valve elastic container in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is filled under pressure, wherein the elastic container expands and from the means due to the contraction of the elastic container upon opening of the spray valve continuously is used.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair foam (mousse), it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose.
  • the agent is foamed with or without the aid of propellants or chemical blowing agents and incorporated as a foam in the hair and rinsed out of the hair after a contact time.
  • the exposure time is usually a few seconds up to 45 minutes.
  • the exposure time depends on the desired result, such as the desired color depth. Preference is given to exposure times of between 30 seconds and 30 minutes. Particularly preferred are exposure times of 30 seconds to 15 minutes.
  • An inventive hair foam has as an additional component a chemical blowing agent and / or a mechanical device for foaming the composition.
  • mechanical foaming devices are meant those devices which allow the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent.
  • a suitable mechanical foaming for example, a commercially available pump foamer or a Aerosol foam head can be used. These are offered, for example, by the company Airspray under the trade name "Airfoamer.”
  • the foaming devices with the trade name "Airfoamer” are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred is the Airfoamer with the type designation G3.
  • any corresponding aerosol valve can be used, which allows the Sprloppyate invention.
  • the spray rate is 10 g per second. Preference is given to spraying rates of 5 g per second. Very particular preference is given to spray rates of at least 0.5 g per second and at most 3.5 g per second. It may be advantageous if the valve opening has a diameter of at most 0.4 mm. An opening of 0.35 mm is preferred. Very particularly preferred are valve openings of at most 0.3 mm. Such valves may be commercially available, for example, from the companies Seaquist Perfect Dispensing GmbH or Coster Technology Specials s.p.a. be obtained.
  • propellants To use the compositions of the invention as aerosol sprays propellants must be used.
  • the propellants preferred according to the invention are selected from the hydrocarbons having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons and mixtures of these substances.
  • Very particularly preferred propellants are propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these aforementioned propellant gases in each case with each other.
  • most preferred propellants are the mixtures of dimethyl ether with hydrocarbons. Within the group of hydrocarbons as propellant gases are preferred n-butane and propane.
  • the blowing agent is selected so that it can simultaneously serve as a solvent for other ingredients such as perfume oils, oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D), the dye precursors or substantive dyes.
  • the propellant can then serve as a solvent for these latter components, if they are at 20 0 C to at least 0.1 wt .-%, based on the propellant, in this soluble.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the said hydrocarbons or mixtures of said hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether as sole blowing agent.
  • the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellant of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.
  • the propellant gases are present in amounts of 5 to 98% by weight, preferably 10 to 98% by weight and more preferably 20 to 98% by weight, very particularly preferably 40 to 98% by weight, based in each case on the total aerosol composition ,
  • compositions of the invention may be packaged in commercial aerosol cans.
  • the cans can be tinplate or aluminum.
  • the cans can be internally coated to minimize the risk of corrosion.
  • Aerosol container from Alumonoblocdosen, but also from plastics such as PET or glass can be.
  • any spray pump can be used, which allows the erfmdungswashe spray rate.
  • Corresponding systems are commercially available from Calmar Inc., for example.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a keratin fiber-color-changing keratin fiber treatment agent, in particular a hair color-changing agent
  • Hair treatment agent which is applied in the form of a foam on the keratin fibers, especially hair.
  • the dependent claims represent preferred embodiments of this Erfmdungshafenstandes.
  • Another object of the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular hair fibers.
  • Hair treatment agent can be applied with a conventional mechanical pump foam system, a pump foamer, or with a propellant from a conventional aerosol pressure vessel on the hair.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain, in addition to coloring active ingredients, also cleansing and nourishing agents.
  • Suitable coloring agents are, in particular, natural and synthetic substantive dyes and precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl ) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6 chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino
  • Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxy-indoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular 5, 6-dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg.
  • hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used as the hydrochlorides.
  • dye precursors of the indoline or indole type it may be preferable to use them together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • ⁇ -aminocarboxylic bon Textren arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Both the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-20% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain detergent active substances, in particular surfactants used as washing raw materials.
  • surfactants is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, lium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical,
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE -Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (" 'or SOy' group in the molecule .
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 C
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts .
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Cj 2 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil
  • R is hydrogen or methyl
  • R is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20,
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
  • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl- and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, caprinal kohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained for example in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2 / i 4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
  • R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference may be made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N- Alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide of reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltri- methylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylanimonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • emulsifiers effect the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994.
  • "Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example:
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • Phospholipids are especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. when
  • Lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds e.g.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ® PGPH)
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the emulsifiers which do not contain ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule may be very particularly preferred.
  • the effect can be further increased with polymers.
  • polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which are “temporary” or “permanent” cationic can be.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups .
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group -4 hydrocarbon group bound to a synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof main polymer chain via a C have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R 18 -H or -CH 3
  • R 18 is a methyl group
  • R 19 , R 20 and R 21 are methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (ethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of polyunsaturated unsaturates, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers containing monomer units according to formula (III) as a non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci -4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-Ci -4 alkyl ester.
  • acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat R 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ®. , Hydagen® ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially CMF. chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is, for example, in DE 44 40 625 Al and described in DE 1 95 03 465 Al.
  • Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 "10 5 to 5 '10 6 (g / mol).
  • the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids.
  • Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can be used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility.
  • Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are, for example, acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5 carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preference is given to using low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids, for example glycolic acid or lactic acid.
  • anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the ⁇ V; ⁇ ⁇ ; : •:: -; '• ⁇ ⁇ • • • • 27 Sulfonsa ⁇ fe distr is present wholly or partly as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This.
  • Copolymer may also be present in crosslinked form, with preference being given to polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide as crosslinking agents.
  • polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide as crosslinking agents.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • the use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Cn-C H isoparaffm) and a non-ionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the action of the active ingredient according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H grappenes and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which have in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -SO 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin wei a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide, and Z or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R 22 -CH CR 23 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 24 R 25 R 26 A ⁇ (IV)
  • R 22 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 24 , R 25 and R 26 are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ⁇ is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol (BASF). Luviskol VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as sold, for example, under the trademarks Culminal ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON). shellac
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydi- alkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B 1.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade.
  • Other polymer powders for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris).
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL
  • Plastic Powder FP styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers
  • ACCUREL EP 400 polyethylene and polypropylene Powder
  • silicone polymers Silicone Powder X2-1605
  • the polymers are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the foam image can be further improved by the use of protein hydrolysates and derivatives thereof.
  • the fine bubble and the stability of the foam and the feel of the foam itself, as well as the feeling of keratinic fibers after the application of the foam are optimized by protein hydrolysates.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • Gluadin ® Cognis
  • diamine ® Diamalt
  • Crotein ® Crotein ®
  • Very particular preference may be the use of the silk proteins S ericin and fibroin and its derivatives.
  • protein hydrolysates amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place.
  • derivatives of protein hydrolysates for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such Products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Gluadin® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae , or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can originate.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Sick, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl
  • agents used in the invention according to the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-% based on the total agent. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.
  • the composition of the foam according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances become.
  • the fatty substances improve the creaminess of the applied foam as well as the feel of the foam in use as well as the combability of the keratinic fibers treated with this foam. Furthermore, they also protect the scalp from staining and contribute to improved skin compatibility of the foam composition.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
  • fatty alcohols can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 3 Q-, preferably Ci 0 - C 22 - and all particularly preferably Cj 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G 5 Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or Isocarb® ® 24 available for purchase.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
  • natural or synthetic waxes may be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, micro waxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example: - vegetable oils.
  • oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behe- nylalkohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myristyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • alcohol component These esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C 12 -C 5 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • the amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, cationically derivatized panthenols and pantolactone. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6ai?) - 2-oxohexa-hydrothienol [3,4-o (] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • the beneficial in the foam compositions plant extracts can be used. Plant extracts can optimize the staining result. The color result becomes more brilliant and shinier in gloss.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat , Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • compositions according to the invention can be further optimized in their action in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups.
  • amino compounds include ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine.
  • these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride.
  • the amines are used together with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.
  • compositions according to the invention may in principle contain all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example: Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, star
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
  • fiber-structure-improving active substances in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • - light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
  • - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, one or more multi-phase shaking mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.
  • alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol / water, may be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.
  • acids are used as acids.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are taken up in the usual dietary intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N 5 N 5 N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations according to the invention in accordance with this embodiment can be rinsed out after expiry of this reaction time with water or an agent which is at least predominantly hydrous; however, they are preferably left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferred to apply the fiction, contemporary preparation prior to the application of a cleaning agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents on the hair. In this case, the erfmdungswashe preparation serves as a color protection for the following applications.
  • microemulsions are also understood as meaning "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are in principle systems with the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which at room temperature are known as oil-in-water (O / W). When these systems are heated, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (commonly referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") which, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular having a particle diameter of about 100 to 300 nra. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, for which the term "PIT emulsions" has become generally accepted, can be found in a large number of publications, for which the publications in US Pat Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface, pages 58, 119-149 (1995).
  • microparticles or "PIT" emulsions which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.
  • the preparation of the microemulsions according to the invention can be carried out, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the conventionally prepared emulsion and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply.
  • the decrease in the specific conductivity of the initially present O / W emulsion generally decreases over a temperature range from 2 to 8 ° C. from initially more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range.
  • the emulsion of oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and optionally other components initially prepared as usual can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then allowed to cool and optionally add other components as well as the remaining water.
  • the preparation of the microemulsion may be carried out directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range.
  • the microemulsion thus prepared is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.
  • dyeing process comprises all processes known to those skilled in the art, in which a colorant is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened, and left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed or left completely on the hair. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. Kh. Schrader, Basics and Recipes of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Wegig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced, reflect the corresponding knowledge of the expert.
  • composition of the dyeing or toning agent is not subject to any principal
  • Developer type oxidation dye precursors are typically primary aromatic amines having another free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6 Tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triammopyrimidine, 4 -Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis- (4- aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-
  • 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole Particularly advantageous Developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5 , 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • coupler type oxidation dye precursors m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy 4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6 Dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2.6 Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-
  • Mo ⁇ holinderivate such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine
  • Pyrazole derivatives such as, for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-l, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3
  • Direct dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and also 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxy-indoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular 5, 6-dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg.
  • hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used as the hydrochlorides.
  • amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids in turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Hair dyes especially when the dyeing is oxidative, whether with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually adjusted to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agent is possible.
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred.
  • enzymes which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per- compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes, the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agent) Transmitted atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyravate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • the application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C, preferably at the temperature of the scalp.
  • the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed.
  • the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu + and Mn + .
  • the metal ions can in principle in the form be used of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the hair color-changing agent is present as a shampoo.
  • the recipe is filled into a foam dispenser and used.
  • a particularly suitable foam dispenser is marketed, for example, under the trade name Airfoamer by the company Airspray.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit de traitement des fibres kératiniques modifiant la couleur des fibres kératiniques, en particulier un produit de traitement des cheveux modifiant la couleur des cheveux, ce produit étant appliqué sous la forme d'une mousse sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cheveux. L'invention concerne également un procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux.
PCT/EP2005/009795 2004-12-20 2005-09-13 Shampooing modifiant la couleur des cheveux WO2006066642A1 (fr)

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DE200410062428 DE102004062428A1 (de) 2004-12-20 2004-12-20 Haarfarbveränderndes Shampoo
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WO2011091875A2 (fr) 2010-01-29 2011-08-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Colorants sous forme de mousse
WO2013013863A2 (fr) 2011-07-27 2013-01-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration pour des fibres kératiniques
DE102013226283A1 (de) 2013-12-17 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumstabilisierte Färbemittel II
DE102013226284A1 (de) 2013-12-17 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumstabilisierte Färbemittel I
WO2021121722A1 (fr) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procede de teinture de matieres keratiniques, comprenant l'utilisation d'un compose organosilicique, d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique, d'un alcool c1-c10 et d'un compose de teinture
WO2021121715A1 (fr) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration de matériau kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé d'organosilicium, d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement

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DE102007063429A1 (de) * 2007-12-19 2009-06-25 Animox Gmbh Reaktives Additiv aus eiweißhaltigen Rohstoffen und Abprodukten tierischer oder pflanzlicher Herkunft
DE102010031368A1 (de) 2010-07-15 2012-01-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumförmige Färbemittel

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011091875A2 (fr) 2010-01-29 2011-08-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Colorants sous forme de mousse
DE102010001375A1 (de) 2010-01-29 2011-08-04 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Schaumförmige Färbemittel II
US8349026B2 (en) 2010-01-29 2013-01-08 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mousse-type dyes II
WO2013013863A2 (fr) 2011-07-27 2013-01-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration pour des fibres kératiniques
DE102011079923A1 (de) 2011-07-27 2013-01-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Färbeverfahren für keratinische Fasern
DE102013226283A1 (de) 2013-12-17 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumstabilisierte Färbemittel II
DE102013226284A1 (de) 2013-12-17 2015-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Schaumstabilisierte Färbemittel I
WO2015090291A1 (fr) 2013-12-17 2015-06-25 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Colorants capillaires à mousse stabilisée
WO2015090290A1 (fr) 2013-12-17 2015-06-25 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Colorants capillaires à mousse stabilisée
WO2021121722A1 (fr) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procede de teinture de matieres keratiniques, comprenant l'utilisation d'un compose organosilicique, d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique, d'un alcool c1-c10 et d'un compose de teinture
WO2021121715A1 (fr) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de coloration de matériau kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé d'organosilicium, d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement

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