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WO2004050973A1 - Tissu a plusieurs filaments en polyamide et son procede de production - Google Patents

Tissu a plusieurs filaments en polyamide et son procede de production Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2004050973A1
WO2004050973A1 PCT/JP2003/014685 JP0314685W WO2004050973A1 WO 2004050973 A1 WO2004050973 A1 WO 2004050973A1 JP 0314685 W JP0314685 W JP 0314685W WO 2004050973 A1 WO2004050973 A1 WO 2004050973A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
woven fabric
warp
polyamide multifilament
less
weft
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2003/014685
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Hiroyuki Miyano
Noriki Fukunishi
Original Assignee
Toyo Boseki Kabushiki Kaisya
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyo Boseki Kabushiki Kaisya filed Critical Toyo Boseki Kabushiki Kaisya
Publication of WO2004050973A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004050973A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/573Tensile strength
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/063Load-responsive characteristics high strength
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2505/00Industrial
    • D10B2505/18Outdoor fabrics, e.g. tents, tarpaulins
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2507/00Sport; Military
    • D10B2507/06Parachutes

Definitions

  • the present invention is thin and lightweight, has low air permeability, has a soft and flexible texture, has excellent tear strength, and has excellent weaving properties with a polyamide multifilament woven fabric suitably used for apparel and materials. Manufacturing method. Background art
  • the woven fabric will be thick and the texture will be hard, making it unsuitable for applications requiring compact storage such as tents, paragliders and parachutes.
  • warp yarns are sometimes warped and woven without sizing in order to suppress the cost of such woven fabrics and base fabrics. Since it is limited to those with a relatively large single-fiber fineness, the fabric and the base fabric lack flexibility and softness.
  • the present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and has a low air permeability that can be suitably used for materials such as downwear, down jackets, down proofs, sleeping bags, and clothing. And to provide a soft, flexible, high-strength thin fabric and a method for producing the same.
  • FIG. 1 is an example of a structure diagram of the polyamide multifilament woven fabric of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is another example of a structure diagram of the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention. Disclosure of the invention
  • the present invention has been able to solve the above problems by the following means. That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
  • Fabric thickness 0. 1 5 mm or less, a fabric basis weight of 8 0 gZm 2 or less, the tear strength is 1 in the warp cutting direction and Z or weft direction by Shin Gurutangu method. 5 kgf or more, air permeability 1
  • a polyamide multifilament woven fabric having a size of not more than cm 3 / cm 2 ⁇ s and a total sum of single yarns of at least 800 between warp and weft of 2.54 cm.
  • the polyamide multifilament woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a woven fabric thickness of 0.15 mm or less, a woven fabric weight of preferably 80 g / m 2 or less, and a warp cutting direction and a Z or weft cutting direction by a single-tander method.
  • Polyamide multifilament is a fiber with high strength, high toughness, abrasion resistance, and excellent dimensional stability. Materials such as belts, hoses, tire cords, belts, sleeping bags, tents, parachutes, riders, parachutes, etc. It is suitable for use or for sports clothing such as ski / snowport wear and art doorwear.
  • the target is mainly for use in thin and compact fabrics such as down wear, down jackets, down proofs, sleeping bags, etc.
  • the fabric thickness is preferably 0.15 mm or less, more preferably 0.13 mm. It is as follows.
  • the fabric weight is preferably 80 gZm 2 or less, more preferably 70 g / m 2 or less, and still more preferably 60 gZm 2 or less.
  • the yarn is made with a resin having a relative viscosity that is too high in order to increase the fiber strength, the spinning operability may be impaired, and the tear strength of the woven fabric is 5.0 kgf or less. Is preferred.
  • the air permeability lc mV cm 2 - Is preferably not more than s, and more preferably 0 8 cmcm 2 ⁇ s or less, more preferably 0 5 8 cm 3 Roh cm 2 ⁇ s or less..
  • woven fabric is used as side lining and stuffed.
  • the air permeability of the woven fabric exceeds 1 cm 3 / cm 2 ⁇ s, the fiber diameter is small, the crimp is small, the bristle-type wadding, and the stable are likely to protrude from the inside, which is not preferable.
  • the above means that the sum of the numerical value by the warp and the numerical value by the weft is 800 or more by multiplying the number of the filaments constituting the multifilament by the number of the warp or the weft of 2.54 cm. .
  • nylon multifilament woven fabrics when weaving warp yarns with no twist and no glue, nylon multifilaments with a relatively large single-filament fineness and a small number of filaments have been used. It was found that there was a limit in obtaining a fabric having low air permeability. Therefore, in order to obtain a low air permeability, it is preferable to use a multifilament having a large number of filaments and to obtain a woven fabric of the present invention by sizing. As a result, it is possible to finish the fabric with low air permeability and soft and flexible fabric.
  • the total number of single yarns between 2.54 cm of the warp and weft is less than 600, low air permeability cannot be obtained, and softness and flexibility tend to be insufficient, which is not preferable. More preferably, it is at least 1000, more preferably at least 1200. However, if the weaving density is set too high to increase the total number of single yarns between the 2.54 cm warp and weft yarns, weaving properties may be impaired. It is preferably at most 0.000. Regarding the balance of warp, it is not preferable that the ratio of warp or weft is too large, and the warp: weft is preferably in the range of 3: 7 to 7: 3, and more preferably 4: 3. 6-6: The range is 4.
  • the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention is preferably subjected to calendering only on one side.
  • both sides of the fabric were calendered in order to obtain low air permeability, but this is a factor of cost increase, and glossiness appears on both sides of the fabric by calendering, This is not desirable because it is easily disliked.
  • the woven fabric of the present invention by increasing the sum of the number of single yarns in the unit width with the above-mentioned warp and weft yarns, the denseness was improved, and only one side was calendered, and the air permeability was sufficiently low. It is preferable because a woven fabric can be obtained and one side having no strong gloss remains.
  • the polyamide multifilament woven fabric of the present invention is woven at a high density using high multi-polyamide filaments so that the total number of single yarns between 2.54 cm of the warp and the weft is 8000 or more. is there.
  • warp fuzz and yarn breakage increase, so that it is preferable to perform sizing on the warp and then weave.
  • Increased costs due to sizing and gluing are unavoidable, but increasing the quality and quality of weaving machines, weaving efficiency, and weaving productivity will not significantly increase overall costs, but rather lead to cost reductions. If the present invention is carried out without sizing, there are many disadvantages of greige and the production risk is high, which is not preferable.
  • the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention has a fineness of 60 dtex or less, a breaking strength of 4.5 cN / dtex or more, and a breaking elongation of 35 to 50 dtex using a polyamide resin having a relative viscosity of 2.5 or more. It is preferred to weave using 50% polyamide multifilaments for warp and / or weft. The single yarn fineness is preferably 1.5 dte X or less.
  • the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention preferably has a relative viscosity of 2.5 or more, more preferably 3.0 or more, and even more preferably 3.5 or more. It is a polyamide multifilament formed by spinning.
  • the relative viscosity is less than 2.5, it becomes difficult to obtain such a high strength and high elongation type multifilament, which is not preferable.
  • the breaking strength is more preferably 5.5 OcN / dtex or more, and even more preferably 5.5 cN / dteX or more.
  • the relative viscosity is preferably 5.0 or less.
  • the breaking strength is preferably 10 cN / dtex or less.
  • the fineness of the multifilament is preferably 60 dtex or less, more preferably 50 dte, and still more preferably 40 dtex or less in order to obtain the thinness and lightness of the woven fabric.
  • the method for producing these polyamide multifilaments is not particularly limited, but it can be produced by a continuous spin-drawing apparatus using a spin draw method, or by performing a spin-drawing apparatus and a drawing apparatus in two steps.
  • the peripheral speed of the spinning godet roller is preferably 1500 to 4000 mZ, more preferably in the range of 2000 to 3000 mZ, and it is continuously stretched and stretched to have a breaking strength of 4.5 cN / dtex or more and a breaking strength of 35 to 50. It is preferable that the elongation at break is adjusted to%.
  • the woven fabric of the present invention is mainly used for materials such as sleeping bags, tents, paragliders, parachutes, skis, snowboard wear, art doorwear, and clothing, so that a strong and solid fabric is required. Therefore, the preferred organization of woven fabric is a flat organization, which has the most organizational points, or a ripstop organization that combines a flat organization, a stone, and a Nanako organization. Above all, it is preferable to use a ripstop structure in order to obtain a woven fabric having a large tear strength, and the number of stones and nanaco in the lip stop structure may be two or more. Generally, it is configured in the range of 2 to 5, and a double rip stop may be used.
  • the grid pattern is preferably 1 to 2 cm, more preferably a grid pattern of 1 cm or less. It is desirable to design a woven fabric.
  • the polyamide multifilament polymer constituting the polyamide filament fabric of the present invention is a synthetic polymer having an amide bond, and is represented by nylon 6, nylon 46, nylon 66, or the like.From the viewpoint of softness and cost, nylon is used. 6 is particularly preferably employed. It may be a copolymer or a mixture mainly composed of them.
  • a hygroscopic monomer may be copolymerized.
  • the core-sheath type duplex in which a hygroscopic resin is confined in the core is not particularly limited, and the cross-sectional shape of the filament constituting the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited.
  • any special cross section can be applied, and it may be an aggregate of different cross sections, and the degree of irregularity and the hollow ratio are not particularly limited.
  • a glossiness that is too strong is often not preferred, a round cross-section that does not cause a sense of strangeness in the glossiness is particularly preferred.
  • so-called thick and thin yarn having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction may be used.
  • the filament constituting the polyamide multifilament fabric of the present invention may contain a hygroscopic substance, an antioxidant, a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, an antibacterial agent, etc., alone or in combination.
  • properties other than the strong elongation properties of the polyamide multifilament such as boiling water shrinkage, thermal stress, birefringence, and thickness unevenness.
  • the polyamide multifilament may be subjected to crimping such as false twisting, or may be a mixed yarn or a composite yarn with filaments having different shrinkage rates or different cross-sectional shapes.
  • the thickness of the woven fabric is measured at five random locations using a thickness gauge, and the average value is obtained.
  • the cross section is photographed using a scanning electron microscope, the distance between the outermost filaments on both sides of the woven fabric is randomly measured at five points, and the photographic magnification is converted. And find the average.
  • the obtained woven fabric has a tear strength of 2.0 kgf, a weft tear strength of 1.5 kg ⁇ , a thickness of 0.10 mm, a basis weight of 55 gZm 2 , and a permeability of 0.65 cm V cm 2- s.
  • the texture was very soft, and the fabric was excellent in tearing strength despite being thin, and also excellent in low air permeability. Table 1 shows the results.
  • the relative viscosity 7? R 3. ejecting molten nylon 6 polymer one 5 from a die having 3 four round holes at a spinning temperature of 28 5 D C, cooled, spun pick drawing by godet roller circumferential speed 2 30 OmZm in, Continuous stretching and heat setting were performed to obtain a multifilament of 44 decitex and 34 filaments having a breaking strength of 6.0 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 47.4%.
  • the multifilament was glued for warp, and the weft was used as it was in a non-twist state, and weaving was performed with the ripstop structure shown in FIG.
  • Example 1 the weaving property was good, no warp breakage, no fluff was generated, the operation rate of the loom was high, and the obtained looms had no defects.
  • the obtained greige is refined and dyed according to a conventional method, it is subjected to a force render process (condition: cylinder at a temperature of 120. C, pressure 25 kgf / cm 2 , speed 20 m / min) twice on one side of the fabric to finish.
  • the obtained woven fabric had a tear strength of 2.5 kgf, a weft tear strength of 1.8 kgf, a thickness of 0.10 mm, and a basis weight of 65 gZm 2 .
  • the texture is very soft, even on thin fabrics Nevertheless, it was a polyamide multifilament woven fabric having a high toughness and excellent tear strength. Table 1 shows the results.
  • Relative viscosity 7? R 2.5 Nylon 6 polymer is melted and discharged from spinneret having 12 round holes at spinning temperature of 255, and after cooling, spinning take-off godet roller is spun at a peripheral speed of 3 30 Om / min and continuously. Then, it was heat-set for stretching to obtain a multifilament of 33 decitex 12 filaments having a breaking strength of 4.0 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 43.0%. The multifilament was used as a woven warp in an untwisted state without using glue for both warp and weft in an untwisted state, and weaving was performed with the ripstop structure shown in FIG.
  • the obtained woven fabric has a tear strength of 1.5 kgf, a weft tear strength of 1.0 kgf, a thickness of 0.10 mm, a basis weight of 55 g / m 2 , and a permeability of 0.85 cmVcm 2. -s.
  • the texture was rather hard and the fabric had a slightly lower tear strength. Table 1 shows the results.
  • the weavability was good, no warp breakage and no fluff occurred, and the operating rate of the loom was high.
  • the obtained greige is refined according to a standard method.
  • the fabric was kneaded and dyed to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 244 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 131 yarns / 2.54 cm.
  • No calendar processing was performed.
  • Resulting et fabrics are subjected tear strength is 1. 7 kg f, a weft tear strength is 0. 9 kgf, the thickness Hiroyoshi 0. 10 mm, basis weight 55gZm 2, air permeability 1. 2 cm 3 / cm 2 ⁇ S.
  • the texture was very soft, but the tear strength was slightly weak and the breathability was slightly higher. Table 1 shows the results.
  • the multifilament was glued for warp, and the weft was used as it was in a non-twist state, and weaving was performed with the rib stop structure shown in FIG.
  • Example 1 the weaving property was good, no warp breakage, no fluff was generated, the operation rate of the loom was high, and the obtained looms had no defects.
  • the obtained greige is refined and dyed according to a conventional method, it is calendered (condition: cylinder temperature 120 ° C, pressure 25 kgf / cm 2 , speed 20 m / min) twice on one side of the fabric to finish, and the warp density 200 A woven fabric having a density of 200 pieces / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 200 threads 2.54 cm was obtained.
  • the resulting fabric strength after tearing is 1. 8 kgf, weft tear strength is 1. 5 kg f, the thickness 0. 07m m, basis weight was 37. 2gZm 2.
  • the texture was very soft, and it was a polyamide multifilament fabric having high toughness and excellent tear strength despite being thin. Table 1 shows the results. (table 1 )
  • a light weight that can be suitably used for sleeping bags, tents, paragliders, parachutes, ski / snowport wear, outdoor wear, especially down wear, down jackets, down pulls, etc., and clothing. It is possible to provide a polyamide multifilament woven fabric which is excellent in tear strength and low air permeability even when thin, has a soft and flexible texture, and is excellent in compactness. Further, it has become possible to provide a method for producing a polyamide multifilament woven fabric as described above, which has excellent weaving properties and can suppress glossiness.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissu à plusieurs filaments en polyamide caractérisé en qu'il possède une épaisseur de 0,15 mm au maximum, un poids de 80 g/m2 tout au plus, une résistance à la déchirure d'au moins 1,5 kfg telle que mesurée dans les sens de découpe du fil de trame et/ou du fil de chaîne au moyen du procédé à languette unique, et une imperméabilité à l'air de 1 cm3/cm2.s au maximum. Ledit tissu est également caractérisé en ce que la somme des nombres de fils de trame uniques et des fils de chaîne uniques de largeur de 2,54 cm est d'au moins 8000. Ce tissu à plusieurs filaments en polyamide est approprié pour être utilisé, par exemple, dans des applications de matières et d'habillements, telles qu'un sous-vêtement, un vêtement de dessous de veste, un sous-vêtement étanche et un sac de couchage. Cette invention a aussi pour objet un tissu mince à résistance élevée, souple et doux de perméabilité à l'air faible, et un procédé de production correspondant.
PCT/JP2003/014685 2002-12-02 2003-11-18 Tissu a plusieurs filaments en polyamide et son procede de production WO2004050973A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2002-349814 2002-12-02
JP2002349814 2002-12-02
JP2003-120423 2003-04-24
JP2003120423 2003-04-24

Publications (1)

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WO2004050973A1 true WO2004050973A1 (fr) 2004-06-17

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014021013A1 (fr) * 2012-08-02 2014-02-06 東レ株式会社 Textile utilisant une fibre à section transversale plate à lobes multiples
CN105264132A (zh) * 2013-06-05 2016-01-20 东丽株式会社 聚酰胺织物及使用其的羽绒制品
CN105821559A (zh) * 2016-04-25 2016-08-03 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种提花防钻绒面料及其加工方法
CN112030317A (zh) * 2020-08-28 2020-12-04 天长市明旺化纤制品有限公司 一种高密度防钻绒化纤面料及其纺织工艺
US20220339914A1 (en) * 2019-09-13 2022-10-27 The North Face Apparel Corp. Composite materials with membrane

Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0333261A (ja) * 1989-06-26 1991-02-13 Toray Ind Inc 非通気性シート
JPH0457934A (ja) * 1990-06-27 1992-02-25 Toyobo Co Ltd 柔軟なナイロン織物の製造方法
JPH1121739A (ja) * 1997-07-02 1999-01-26 Toray Ind Inc 高強力織物
JP2000234272A (ja) * 1999-02-10 2000-08-29 Toray Ind Inc パラグライダークロス
JP2000282345A (ja) * 1999-03-30 2000-10-10 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd 紫外線遮蔽性布帛
JP2000282344A (ja) * 1999-03-30 2000-10-10 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd 紫外線遮蔽性の布帛
JP2001262444A (ja) * 2000-01-14 2001-09-26 Toray Ind Inc インクリボン用基布およびインクリボン
JP2003055859A (ja) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-26 Toyobo Co Ltd 引裂強力に優れた織物およびその製造方法
JP2004044018A (ja) * 2002-07-11 2004-02-12 Toyobo Co Ltd 高密度織物

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0333261A (ja) * 1989-06-26 1991-02-13 Toray Ind Inc 非通気性シート
JPH0457934A (ja) * 1990-06-27 1992-02-25 Toyobo Co Ltd 柔軟なナイロン織物の製造方法
JPH1121739A (ja) * 1997-07-02 1999-01-26 Toray Ind Inc 高強力織物
JP2000234272A (ja) * 1999-02-10 2000-08-29 Toray Ind Inc パラグライダークロス
JP2000282345A (ja) * 1999-03-30 2000-10-10 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd 紫外線遮蔽性布帛
JP2000282344A (ja) * 1999-03-30 2000-10-10 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd 紫外線遮蔽性の布帛
JP2001262444A (ja) * 2000-01-14 2001-09-26 Toray Ind Inc インクリボン用基布およびインクリボン
JP2003055859A (ja) * 2001-08-10 2003-02-26 Toyobo Co Ltd 引裂強力に優れた織物およびその製造方法
JP2004044018A (ja) * 2002-07-11 2004-02-12 Toyobo Co Ltd 高密度織物

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014021013A1 (fr) * 2012-08-02 2014-02-06 東レ株式会社 Textile utilisant une fibre à section transversale plate à lobes multiples
CN104520481A (zh) * 2012-08-02 2015-04-15 东丽株式会社 使用扁平多叶形截面纤维而成的织物
JPWO2014021013A1 (ja) * 2012-08-02 2016-07-21 東レ株式会社 扁平多葉形断面繊維を用いた織物
TWI613338B (zh) * 2012-08-02 2018-02-01 東麗股份有限公司 使用扁平多葉形斷面纖維之織物、及使用其之縫製品
CN105264132A (zh) * 2013-06-05 2016-01-20 东丽株式会社 聚酰胺织物及使用其的羽绒制品
CN105821559A (zh) * 2016-04-25 2016-08-03 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种提花防钻绒面料及其加工方法
US20220339914A1 (en) * 2019-09-13 2022-10-27 The North Face Apparel Corp. Composite materials with membrane
US12162261B2 (en) * 2019-09-13 2024-12-10 The North Face Apparel Corp. Composite materials with membrane
CN112030317A (zh) * 2020-08-28 2020-12-04 天长市明旺化纤制品有限公司 一种高密度防钻绒化纤面料及其纺织工艺

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