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WO2001000168A1 - Compositions cosmetiques - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001000168A1
WO2001000168A1 PCT/US2000/017642 US0017642W WO0100168A1 WO 2001000168 A1 WO2001000168 A1 WO 2001000168A1 US 0017642 W US0017642 W US 0017642W WO 0100168 A1 WO0100168 A1 WO 0100168A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
fatty acid
conditioning agent
composition according
skin
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2000/017642
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Geoffrey George Dawson
Marc Paul Lorenzi
Marina Trani
Kristina Vanoosthuyze
Original Assignee
The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority to AU57709/00A priority Critical patent/AU5770900A/en
Publication of WO2001000168A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001000168A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/13—Amines
    • A61K31/14—Quaternary ammonium compounds, e.g. edrophonium, choline
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions.
  • it relates to skin care compositions.
  • Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure.
  • the outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles surrounded by 8nm thick layers.
  • Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
  • compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
  • Desirable properties of skin care compositions are to provide good skin feel, water retention, moisturisation, absorption, and rub-in characteristics.
  • One way of delivering high moisturisation to the skin is to incorporate polyhydric alcohollike humectant materials such as glycerine into a composition. Skin compositions with high levels of polyhydric alcohols and therefore high levels of moisturisation, however, are often perceived by the consumer as unpleasant as such compositions can form very sticky residues when applied to the skin.
  • Another way of delivering desirable benefits to the skin is to incorporate oil- soluble skin care ingredients such as polyol carboxylic acid esters into skin care compositions. Again, such compositions can form undesirable, sticky residues when applied to the skin.
  • compositions which show low levels of stickiness or tackiness whilst providing high levels of moisturisation, as well as providing excellent skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.
  • Quaternary ammonium cationic conditioning agents are know for use in fabric softener compositions and hair conditioning compositions.
  • compositions comprising certain quaternary ammonium cationic conditioning agents and relatively high levels of humectant provide good moisturisation benefits with low levels of stickiness or tack.
  • the compositions also show good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • each R in a compound is a C 6 -C 22 , preferably with only minimal, or no, C 6 -C 10 , hydrocarbyl group, preferably having an Iodine Value (hereinafter also referred to as IV) of from about 70 to about 140 based upon the IV of the equivalent fatty acid, n is a number from 1 to three on the weight average in any mixture of compounds, each R 1 in a compound is a C1-C 3 alkyl or hydroxy alkyl group, the total of n and the number of R 1 groups that are hydroxyethyl groups equaling 3, n+m equaling 4, and X is a conditioner compatible anion, preferably methyl sulfate, the conditioning agent preferably having (a) a Hunter L transmission of at least about 85, (b) non-detectable levels at the conditions of use of odorous compounds selected from isopropyl acetate, 2,2'-ethylidenebis(oxy)bispropane, and/or short fatty acid
  • compositions of the invention provide good moisturisation benefits with low levels of stickiness or tack.
  • a cosmetic method of treatment of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to the present invention.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise two essential elements, a quaternary ammonium cationic conditioning agent and greater than 10%, by weight, of humectant. These elements will be described in more detail below.
  • the present compositions can be used for any suitable purpose.
  • the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin.
  • the skin care compositions can be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like.
  • the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprising a single oily component or a mixture of oily components in miscible or homogeneous form but said different oil phases containing different materials or combinations of materials from each other.
  • compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at least about 1 ,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range from about 1 ,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 1 ,500 to about 100,000 mPa.s and especially from about 2,000 to about 40,000 mPa.s (25°C, neat, Brookfield RVT Spindle No. 5).
  • the quaternary ammonium cationic conditioning agent for use herein may be defined a Diester Quaternary Ammonium active (DEQA) selected from compounds having the formula (I):
  • DEQA Diester Quaternary Ammonium active
  • each R in a compound is a C 6 -C 22 hydrocarbyl group, preferably having an IV from about 70 to about 140 based upon the IV of the equivalent fatty acid with the cis/trans ratio preferably being as described hereinafter, n is a number from 1 to three on the weight average in any mixture of compounds, each R 1 in a compound is a C- ⁇ - 3 alkyl or hydroxy alkyl group, the total of n and the number of R 1 groups that are hydroxyethyl groups equaling 3, n+m equaling 4, and X is a conditioner compatible anion, preferably methyl sulfate.
  • the cis:trans isomer ratio of the fatty acid (of the C18:1 component) is at least about 1 :1 , preferably about 2:1 , more preferably 3:1 , and even more preferably about 4:1 , or higher.
  • the compound, or mixtures of compounds have (a) either a Hunter "L" transmission of at least about 85, typically from about 85 to about 95, preferably from about 90 to about 95, more preferably above about 95, if possible, (b) only low, relatively non-dectectable levels, at the conditions of use, of odorous compounds selected from: isopropyl acetate; 2,2'-ethylidenebis (oxy)bispropane; 1 ,3,5-trioxane; and/or short chain fatty acid (4-12, especially 6-10, carbon atoms) esters, especially methyl esters; or (c) preferably, both.
  • odorous compounds selected from: isopropyl acetate; 2,2'-ethylidenebis (oxy)bispropane; 1 ,3,5-trioxane; and/or short chain fatty acid (4-12, especially 6-10, carbon atoms) esters, especially methyl esters; or (c) preferably, both.
  • the Hunter L transmission is measured by (1 ) mixing the conditioning active with solvent at a level of about 10% of active, to assure clarity, the preferred solvent being ethoxylated (one mole EO) 2,2,4-trimethyl-1 ,3-pentanediol and (2) measuring the L color value against distilled water with a Hunter ColorQUEST(RTM) colorimeter made by Hunter Associates Laboratory, Reston, Virginia.
  • the level of odourant is defined by measuring the level of odourant in a headspace over a sample of the conditioning active (about 92% active). Chromatograms are generated using 200 mL of head space sample over about 2 grams of sample. The head space sample is trapped on to a solid absorbent and thermally desorbed onto a column directly via cryofocussing at about -100° C. The identifications of materials is based on the peaks in the chromatograms. Some impurities identified are related to the solvent used in the quaternization process, (e.g., ethanol and isopropanol). The ethoxy and methoxy ethers are typically sweet in odour.
  • esters found in the current commercial samples, but not in the typical conditioner actives of this invention. These esters contribute to the perceived poorer odour of the current commercial samples.
  • the level of each odourant found in a typical commercial sample is as follows:
  • each odourant is as follows: isopropyl acetate should be less than about 5, preferably less than about 3, and more preferably less than about 2, nanograms per litre ( ⁇ g/L.); 2,2'-ethylidenebis(oxy)bispropane should be less than about 200, preferably less than about 100, more preferably less than about 10, and even more preferably less than about 5, nanograms per litre ( ⁇ g/L.); 1 ,3,5-trioxane should be less than about 50, preferably less than about 20, more preferably less than about 10, and even more preferably less than about 7, nanograms per litre ( ⁇ g/L.); and/or each short chain fatty acid (4-12, especially 6-10, carbon atoms) ester, especially methyl esters should be less than about 4, preferably less than about 3, and more preferably less than about 2, nanograms per liter ( ⁇ g/L.).
  • the elimination of colour and odour materials can either be accomplished after formation of the compound, or, preferably, by selection of the reactants and the reaction conditions.
  • the reactants are selected to have good odour and colour.
  • the reactants can be cleaned up prior to use.
  • the fatty acid reactant can be double or triple distilled to remove colour and odour causing bodies and remove short chain fatty acids.
  • the colour of the triethanolamine reactant needs to be controlled to a low colour level (e.g. a colour reading of about 20 or less on the APHA scale).
  • the degree of clean up required is dependent on the level of use and the presence of other ingredients. For example, adding a dye can cover up some colours. However, for clear and/or light coloured products, the colour must be almost non-detectable. This is especially true for higher levels of active, e.g., from about 8% to about 75%, preferably from about 13% to about 60%, more preferably from about 18% to about 40%, of the conditioner active by weight of the composition.
  • the odour can be covered up by higher levels of perfume, but at the higher levels of conditioner active there is a relatively high cost associated with such an approach, especially in terms of having to compromise the odour quality. Odour quality can be further improved by use of ethanol as the quaternization reaction solvent.
  • Preferred biodegradable conditioning compounds comprise quaternary ammonium salt, the quatemized ammonium salt being a quatemized product of condensation between: a)-a fraction of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, or of derivatives of said acids, said fatty acids or derivatives each possessing a hydrocarbon chain in which the number of atoms is between 5 and 21 , and b)-triethanolamine, characterised in that said condensation product has an acid value, measured by titration of the condensation product with a standard KOH solution against a phenolphthalein indicator, of less than about 6.5.
  • the acid value is preferably less than or equal to about 5, more preferably less than about 3. Indeed, the lower the AV, the better softness performance is obtained.
  • the acid value is determined by titration of the condensation product with a standard KOH solution against a phenolphthalein indicator according to ISO#53402. The AV is expressed as mg KOH/g of the condensation product.
  • reactants are present in a molar ratio of fatty acid fraction to triethanolamine of from about 1 :1 to about 2.5:1.
  • Preferred cationic, preferably biodegradable quaternary, ammonium conditioning compounds can contain the group -(O)CR which is derived from animal fats, unsaturated, and polyunsaturated, fatty acids, e.g., oleic acid, and/or partially hydrogenated fatty acids, derived from vegetable oils and/or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil, rice bran oil, etc.
  • fatty acids (FA) have the following approximate distributions:
  • TPU is the percentage of polyunsatu rates present.
  • FA's that can be blended, to form FA's of this invention are as follows:
  • FA6 is prepared from a soy bean fatty acid
  • FA? is prepared from a slightly hydrogenated tallow fatty acid.
  • the more preferred essential conditioning actives containing an effective amount of molecules containing two ester linked hydrophobic groups [RC(CO)O- ], said actives being referred to hereinafter as "DEQA's”, are those that are prepared as a single DEQA from blends of all the different fatty acids that are represented (total fatty acid blend), rather than from blends of mixtures of separate finished DEQA's that are prepared from different portions of the total fatty acid blend.
  • the fatty acyl groups are unsaturated, e.g., from about 50% to 100%, preferably from about 55% to about 95%, more preferably from about 60% to about 90%, and that the total level of active containing polyunsaturated fatty acyl groups (TPU) be preferably from about 3% to about 30%.
  • the cis/trans ratio for the unsaturated fatty acyl groups is usually important, with the cis/trans ratio being from about 1 :1 to about 50:1 , the minimum being about 1 :1 , preferably at least 3:1 , and more preferably from about 4:1 to about 20:1.
  • the "percent of conditioner active" containing a given R group is the same as the percentage of that same R group is to the total R groups used to form all of the conditioner actives.
  • the highly unsaturated materials are also easier to formulate into concentrated premixes that maintain their low viscosity and are therefore easier to process, e.g., pump, mixing, etc.
  • These highly unsaturated materials total level of active containing polyunsaturated fatty acyl groups (TPU) being typically from about 3% to about 30%, with only the low amount of solvent that normally is associated with such materials, i.e., from about 5% to about 20%, preferably from about 8% to about 25%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20%, weight of the total conditioner/solvent mixture, are also easier to formulate into concentrated, stable compositions of the present invention, even at ambient temperatures.
  • substituents R and R 1 can optionally be substituted with various groups such as alkoxyl or hydroxyl groups, and can be straight, or branched so long as the R groups maintain their basically hydrophobic character.
  • a preferred long chain DEQA is the DEQA prepared from sources containing high levels of polyunsaturation, i.e., N,N-di(acyl-oxyethyl)-N,N- methylhydroxyethylammonium methyl sulfate, where the acyl is derived from fatty acids containing sufficient polyunsaturation, e.g., mixtures of tallow fatty acids and soybean fatty acids.
  • Another preferred long chain DEQA is the dioleyl (nominally) DEQA, i.e., DEQA in which N,N-di(oleoyl-oxyethyl)-N,N- methylhydroxyethylammonium methyl sulfate is the major ingredient.
  • Preferred sources of fatty acids for such DEQAs are vegetable oils, and/or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, with high contents of unsaturated, e.g., oleoyl groups.
  • at least about 30% of the DEQA is in the diester form, and from 0% to about 30% can be DEQA monoester, e.g., there are three R 1 group.
  • the overall ratios of diester quat to monoester quat are from about 2.5:1 to about 1 :1 , preferably from about 2.3:1 to about 1.3:1.
  • the level of monoester present can be controlled in manufacturing the DEQA by varying the ratio of fatty acid, or fatty acyl source, to triethanolamine.
  • the overall ratios of diester quat to triester quat are from about 10:1 to about 1.5:1 , preferably from about 5:1 to about 2.8:1.
  • the above compounds, used as the essential biodegradable quatemized ester- amine conditioning material in the practice of this invention, can be prepared using standard reaction chemistry.
  • an amine of the formula N(CH 2 CH 2 OH) 3 is esterified, preferably at two hydroxyl groups, with an acid chloride of the formula RC(O)CI, to form an amine which can be made cationic by acidification (one R is H) to be one type of conditioner, or then quatemized with an alkyl halide, R 1 X, to yield the desired reaction product (wherein R and R 1 are as defined hereinbefore).
  • this reaction sequence allows a broad selection of agents to be prepared.
  • each R is a hydrocarbyl, or substituted hydrocarbyl, group, preferably, alkyl, monounsaturated alkenyl, and polyunsaturated alkenyl groups, with the conditioner active containing polyunsaturated alkenyl groups being preferably at least about 3%, more preferably at least about 5%, more preferably at least about 10%, and even more preferably at least about 15%, by weight of the total conditoner active present; the actives preferably containing mixtures of R groups, especially within the individual molecules.
  • RC(O)O is derived from unsaturated fatty acid, e.g., oleic acid, and/or fatty acids and/or partially hydrogenated fatty acids, derived from animal fats, vegetable oils and/or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as: canola oil; safflower oil; peanut oil; sunflower oil; soybean oil; corn oil; tall oil; rice bran oil; etc.]
  • unsaturated fatty acid e.g., oleic acid
  • fatty acids and/or partially hydrogenated fatty acids derived from animal fats, vegetable oils and/or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as: canola oil; safflower oil; peanut oil; sunflower oil; soybean oil; corn oil; tall oil; rice bran oil; etc.
  • canola oil safflower oil
  • peanut oil sunflower oil
  • soybean oil corn oil
  • tall oil rice bran oil
  • the DEQAs herein can also contain a low level of fatty acid, which can be from unreacted starting material used to form the DEQA and/or as a by-product of any partial degradation (hydrolysis) of the conditioner active in the finished composition. It is preferred that the level of free fatty acid be low, preferably below about 15%, more preferably below about 10%, and even more preferably below about 5%, by weight of the conditioner active.
  • the above compounds, used as the quatemized ester-amine conditioning active in the practice of this invention, can be prepared using standard reaction chemistry.
  • an amine of the formula RN(CH 2 CH 2 OH)2 is esterified at both hydroxyl groups with an acid chloride of the formula R 1 C(O)CI, then quatemized with an alkyl halide, RX, to yield the desired reaction product (wherein R and R 1 are as defined hereinbefore).
  • RX alkyl halide
  • the actives of the present invention are preferably prepared by a process wherein a chelant, preferably a diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (DTPA) and/or an ethylene diamine-N,N'-disuccinate (EDDS) is added to the process. Also, preferably, antioxidants are added to the fatty acid immediately after distillation and/or fractionation and/or during the esterification reactions and/or prior to, or during, the quaternization reaction, and/or post-added to the finished conditioner active. The resulting conditioner active has reduced discoloration and malodor associated therewith.
  • a chelant preferably a diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (DTPA) and/or an ethylene diamine-N,N'-disuccinate (EDDS) is added to the process.
  • antioxidants are added to the fatty acid immediately after distillation and/or fractionation and/or during the esterification reactions and/or prior to, or during, the quaternization reaction, and/or post-added to the finished conditioner
  • the typical process comprises the steps of: a) providing a source of triglyceride and reacting the source of triglyceride to form a mixture of fatty acids and/or fatty acid esters; b) using the mixture formed from step (a) to react under esterification conditions with triethanolamine; c) quatemizing, if desired, the mixture of fatty acid esters formed from step (b) by reacting the mixture under quatemizing conditions with a quatemizing agent of the formula R 1 X wherein R 1 is defined as in step (b) and X is a conditioner compatible anion, preferably selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, sulfate, and nitrate thereby forming a quaternary conditioning active, the methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate being highly preferred, wherein at least step (c) is carried out in the presence of a chelating agent selected from
  • the step of reacting the source of triglyceride can further include reacting in the presence of the chelating agent step (b) can further include the presence of the chelating agent.
  • the total amount of added chelating agent is preferably within the range of from about 10 ppm to about 5,000 ppm, more preferably within the range of from about 100 ppm to about 2500 ppm by weight of the formed active.
  • the source of triglyceride is preferably selected from the group consisting of animal fats, vegetable oils, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable oil or partially hydrogenated vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of canola oil, partially hydrogenated canola oil, safflower oil, partially hydrogenated safflower oil, peanut oil, partially hydrogenated peanut oil, sunflower oil, partially hydrogenated sunflower oil, corn oil, partially hydrogenated corn oil, soybean oil, partially hydrogenated soybean oil, tall oil, partially hydrogenated tall oil, rice bran oil, partially hydrogenated rice bran oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the source of triglyceride is canola oil, partially hydrogenated canola oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the process can also include the step of adding from about 0.01 % to about 2% by weight of the composition of an antioxidant compound to any or all of steps (a), (b) or (c).
  • the DEQA actives described hereinabove can contain a low level of the fatty acids which can be unreacted starting material and/or by-product of any partial degradation, e.g., hydrolysis, of the actives in the finished compositions. It is preferred that the level of free fatty acid be low, preferably below about 10%, more preferably below about 5%, by weight of the active.
  • conditioning actives and their methods of preparation are disclosed in US Application No. 60/044719.
  • diester quaternary ammonium compound for use herein include Tetranyl Co-40 supplied by Kao.
  • the I NCI name for this material is Dioleylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
  • a particularly preferred conditioning active for use herein is SC3 which is manufactured according to the synthesis example below.
  • the resulting mixture of fatty acids is vacuum distilled for a total of about 150 minutes, in which the pot temperature rose gradually from about 200°C to about 238°C and the head temperature rose gradually from about 175°C to about 197°C. Vacuum of about 0.3-0.6 mm is maintained.
  • the fatty acids product of the vacuum distillation has an Iodine Value of about 99.1 , an amine value (AV) of about 197.6 and a saponification value (SAP) of about 198.6.
  • step 2)-Esterification
  • the quatemized material is optionally diluted with e.g. about 15% of an approximately 50:50 ethanol/ hexyleneglycol, preferably more hexylene glycol than ethanol, mixture which lowers the melting point of the material thereby providing a better ease in the handling of the material.
  • a sample of the reaction mass is drawn and found to have an Iodine Value of about 78 and a cis:trans ratio of about 1.098.
  • the hydrogen pressure is about 9.8 psig.
  • the hydrogen feed is discontinued and the reactor contents cooled with stirring.
  • the final reaction product has an Iodine Value of about 74.5 and a cis:trans ratio of about 1.35.
  • the hydrogen pressure is about 6 psig.
  • the hydrogen feed is discontinued and the reactor contents cooled with stirring.
  • the final reaction product has an Iodine Value of about 80.
  • the product that forms in the reactor is removed and filtered. It has a cloud point of about 18.6°C.
  • Fatty Acid Compound Synthesis Example C About 1 ,300 grams of food grade canola oil and about 2.9 grams of Engelhard "N-545"® nickel hydrogenation catalyst are placed in a hydrogenation reactor which is equipped with a stirrer. The reactor is sealed and evacuated. The contents are heated to about 180°C and hydrogen is fed into the reactor. Stirring is maintained at about 450 rpm throughout the course of the reaction.
  • the temperature in the reactor is about 192°C and the hydrogen pressure is about 10 psig.
  • the temperature is held at about 190 +3°C.
  • the hydrogen pressure is about 10 psig.
  • a sample of the reaction mass is drawn and found to have an Iodine Value of about 85.5.
  • the hydrogen pressure is about 10 psig.
  • the hydrogen feed is discontinued and the reactor contents cooled with stirring.
  • the final reaction product has an Iodine Value of about 82.4.
  • the product that forms in the reactor is removed and filtered. It has a cloud point of about 17.2°C.
  • the hydrogenation is interrupted, another about 0.7 grams of the same catalyst is added, and the reaction conditions are reestablished at about 190°C for another about 1 hour.
  • the hydrogen feed is then discontinued and the reactor contents cooled with stirring.
  • the final reaction product had an Iodine Value of about 89.9.
  • the product that forms in the reactor is removed and filtered. It has a cloud point of about 16°C.
  • the quatemized material is optionally diluted with e.g. about 15% of ethanol which lowers the melting point of the material thereby providing a better handling of the material.
  • the quatemized material is optionally diluted with e.g. about 8% of ethanol which lower the melting point of the material thereby providing a better ease in the handling of the material.
  • the quatemized material is optionally diluted with e.g. about 8% of ethanol which lower the melting point of the material thereby providing a better ease in the handling of the material.
  • the above synthesized compounds have a Hunter L transmission of about 90 and the following levels of odorants in ⁇ g/L: Isopropyl acetate ⁇ about 1 , typically non-detectable; 1 ,3,5-trioxane about 5.3; 2,2'-ethylidenebis(oxy)- bispropane ⁇ about 1 , typically non-detectable; C6 methyl ester ⁇ about 1 , typically non-detectable; C8 Methyl ester ⁇ about 1 , typically non-detectable; and C10 Methyl ester ⁇ about 1 , typically non-detectable.
  • the quaternary ammonium conditioning agent is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 4.5%, by weight of total composition.
  • Humectant A second essential component of the compositions of the present invention is that they comprise greater than 10%, by weight, of humectant.
  • humectant means a substance which provides the skin with water- retention benefits. Any humectant suitable for use on skin may be used herein. Non-limiting examples of suitable humectants for use in the present invention are described in WO98/22085, WO98/18444 and WO97/01326.
  • humectants include amino acids and derivatives thereof such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water and codium tomentosum extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1 , glucamine salts, glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerine (e.g.
  • glycereth 20 glycerine, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, and extracts or derivatives thereof, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 10, methyl gluceth- 10 and -20 (both commercially available from Amerchol located in Edison, NJ), methyl glucose, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, N-acetyl glucosamine salts, panthenol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythitol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythitol, 1 ,2 pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl
  • the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerine, urea, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, panthenol and polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerine, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerine.
  • compositions of the present invention will comprise from about 12% to about 60%, more preferably from about 15% to about 50%, even more preferably from about 20% to about 40%, by weight, of humectant.
  • compositions herein can contain a variety of optional components suitable for rendering the present compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
  • optional ingredients are well-known to those skilled in the art. These include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition, edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are given below.
  • compositions of the present invention preferably comprise an oil-soluble skin care component.
  • the oil-soluble skin care component of the present invention can comprise any suitable oil-soluble material or mixtures of materials. Suitable materials include those which, for example, give moisturisation, protection, skin feel, skin softness and/or skin smoothness benefits.
  • the oil-soluble skin care component of the compositions herein comprises an emollient material.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise about 0.1 % to about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 30%, by weight, of an oil-soluble, skin care ingredient.
  • Emollient Materials preferably from about 5% to about 30%, by weight, of an oil-soluble, skin care ingredient.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise emollient materials.
  • the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.1 % to about 40%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 30%, and especially from about 5% to about 25% by weight of emollient.
  • Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or relieve dryness of the skin, and/or protect the skin.
  • suitable emollients are known and may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of materials suitable as an emollient.
  • emollients include: i) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and the C 7 -C o isoparaffins, which are C 7 - C 40 branched hydrocarbons, ii) C1-C 3 0 alcohol esters of CrC 30 carboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 3 o dicarboxylic acids, e.g.
  • Organopolysiloxane oils may be volatile, nonvolatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones.
  • nonvolatile refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100°C.
  • volatile refers to all other silicone oils.
  • Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued December 3, 1991. Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.
  • Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils examples include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partially and fully hydrogenated oils from the foregoing sources, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal fats and oils e.g. cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.
  • C -C 2 o alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di- C 8 -C 30 alkyl ethers, examples of which include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyol carboxylic acid esters examples of which include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present compositions comprise one of more emollients selected from dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More preferred emollient materials for use herein are polyol carboxylic acid esters.
  • the polyol ester preferred for use herein is a nonocclusive liquid or liquifiable polyol carboxylic acid ester.
  • These polyol esters are derived from a polyol radical or moiety and one or more carboxylic acid radicals or moieties. In other words, these esters contain a moiety derived from a polyol and one or more moieties derived from a carboxylic acid.
  • These carboxylic acid esters can also be derived from a carboxylic acid.
  • These carboxylic acid esters can also be described as liquid polyol fatty acid esters, because the terms carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art.
  • the preferred polyol polyesters employed in this invention comprise certain polyols, especially sugars or sugar alcohols, esterified with at least four fatty acid groups. Accordingly, the polyol starting material must have at least four esterifiable hydroxyl groups.
  • preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharaides and disaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing four hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose and the sugar alcohol derived from xylose, which has five hydroxyl groups, i.e., xylitol.
  • the monosaccharide, erythrose is not suitable in the practice of this invention since it only contains three hydroxyl groups, but the sugar alcohol derived from erythrose, i.e., erythritol, contains four hydroxyl groups and accordingly can be used. Suitable five hydroxyl group-containing monosaccharides are galactose, fructose, and sorbose. Sugar alcohols containing six -OH groups derived from the hydrolysis products of sucrose, as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g., sorbitol, are also suitable. Examples of disaccharide polyols which can be used include maltose, lactose, and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroxyl groups. Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, and sucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred.
  • the polyol starting material having at least four hydroxyl groups is esterified on at least four of the -OH groups with a fatty acid containing from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic, eleostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acid.
  • the fatty acids can be derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids; they can be saturated or unsaturated, including positional and geometrical isomers. However, in order to provide liquid polyesters preferred for use herein, at least about 50% by weight of the fatty acid incorporated into the polyester molecule should be unsaturated. Oleic and linoleic acids, and mixtures thereof, are especially preferred.
  • the polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in this invention should contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol be esterified with fatty acid, but it is preferable that the polyester contain no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acid, i.e., the polyol moiety is substantially completely esterified.
  • the fatty acids esterified to the polyol molecule can be the same or mixed, but as noted above, a substantial amount of the unsaturated acid ester groups must be present to provide liquidity.
  • sucrose fatty triester would not be suitable for use herein because it does not contain the required four fatty acid ester groups.
  • a sucrose tetra-fatty acid ester would be suitable, but is not preferred because it has more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups.
  • a sucrose hexa-fatty acid ester would be preferred because it has no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups.
  • Highly preferred compounds in which all the hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include the liquid sucrose octa-substituted fatty acid esters.
  • polyol fatty acid polyesters containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the preferred polyol polyesters preferred for use herein have complete melting points below about 30°C, preferably below about 27.5°C, more preferably below about 25°C. Complete melting points reported herein are measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).
  • the polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterification of the polyol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters using a variety of catalysts; acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid, per se. See, for example, U.S. Patent No. 2,831 ,854; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977. An especially preferred material is known by the INCI name sucrose polycottonseedate.
  • complete melting point means a melting point as measured by the well-known technique of Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).
  • the complete melting point is the temperature at the intersection of the baseline, i.e. the specific heat line, with the line tangent to the trailing edge of the endothermic peak.
  • a scanning temperature of 5°C/minute is generally suitable in the present invention for measuring the complete melting points. However, it should be recognised that more frequent scanning rates may be deemed appropriate by the analytical chemist skilled in the art in specific circumstances.
  • a DSC technique for measuring complete melting points is also described in US Patent No. 5,306,514, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994.
  • nonocclusive means that the component as so described does not substantially or block the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.
  • compositions herein may optionally comprise polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides.
  • Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include any polyethylene glycol derivative of glycerides which are water-soluble and which are suitable for use in a skin care composition.
  • Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides for use herein include derivatives of mono-, di- and tri- glycerides and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides suitable herein are polyethyleneglycol glyceryl fatty esters having the formula (1 ): 0 RCOCH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH
  • n the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 100, more preferably from about 6 to about 80, and wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-6 capric/caprylic glycerides, PEG-8 capric/caprylic glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-60 evening primose glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl dioleate, PEG- 5 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycer
  • Preferred for use herein is a polyethylene glycol derivative of sunflower oil commerically available from Floratech under the tradename Florasun PEG-10.
  • compositions of the present invention will also preferably comprise water.
  • water will preferably comprise from about 10% to about 90%, more preferably from about 20% to about 80%, even more preferably from about 30% to about 60%, by weight, of the total composition
  • Other Optional Ingredients preferably comprise from about 10% to about 90%, more preferably from about 20% to about 80%, even more preferably from about 30% to about 60%, by weight, of the total composition
  • Other Optional Ingredients preferably comprise from about 10% to about 90%, more preferably from about 20% to about 80%, even more preferably from about 30% to about 60%, by weight, of the total composition.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise a wide range of other optional components. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable.
  • additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable.
  • functional classes of ingredients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include: abrasives, absorbents, antibiotics, anticaking agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-perspirant agents, antioxidants, vitamins, biological additives, bleach, bleach activators, brighteners, builders, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetics, cleansers, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, desquamation actives, depilatories, drug astringents, dyes, dye transfer agents, enzymes, external analgesics, flavours, film formers, fragrance components, insect repellents, mildewcides, opacifying agents, oxidative dyes, oxidising agents, pest control ingredients, pH adjusters, pH buffers, pharmaceutical actives, plasticizers, preservatives, radical
  • pigments include pigments.
  • Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and/or inorganic.
  • materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents.
  • suitable pigments are iron oxides, acyglutamate iron oxides, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be used in a conventional manner for care of human skin.
  • An effective amount of the composition typically from about 1 gram to about 50 grams, preferably from about 1 gram to about 20 grams, is applied to wet or dry, preferably wet, skin.
  • Application of the composition typically includes working the composition into the skin, generally with the hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed.
  • the preferred method of treating the skin therefore comprises the steps of:
  • the methyl paraben, propyl paraben, Jaguar HP 105, Florasun PEG-10, SC3 and perfume are all mixed together. Then the glycerine is added with 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing. Then the water is added with a further 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing. Then the sucrose polycottonseedate is added with 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing.
  • the methyl paraben, propyl paraben, Jaguar HP 105, urea, Florasun PEG-10, SC3 and perfume are all mixed together. Then the water is added with a 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing. Then the sucrose polycottonseedate is added with a further 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing.
  • the methyl paraben, propyl paraben, Jaguar HP 105, SC3 and perfume are all mixed together. Then the glycerine is added with 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing. Then the water is added with a further 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing. Then the sucrose polycottonseedate is added with 5-10 minutes of high sheer mixing.
  • compositions of the above examples provide good moisturisation benefits with low levels of stickiness or tack.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique contenant : (a) un agent de conditionnement cationique d'ammonium quaternaire représenté par la formule (I) : [RC(O)OC2H4]nN+(R1)mX- dans laquelle chaque R d'un composé représente un groupe hydrocarbyle C¿6?-C22, de préférence, dans pratiquement aucun cas, C6-C10, possédant, de préférence, une valeur d'iode (désignée ci-après IV) de 70 à 140 basée sur le IV de l'acide gras équivalent, n est un nombre de 1 à 3 sur la moyenne de poids de tout mélange de composés, chaque R?1¿ d'un composé représente un groupe alkyle C¿1?-C3 ou hydroxyalkyle, le total de n et le nombre de groupes R?1¿ qui sont des groupes hydroxyéthyle étant égale à 3, n+m étant égal à 4 et X représentant un anion compatible avec l'agent de conditionnement, de préférence, sulfate de méthyle, cet agent de conditionnement possédant de préférence (a) une transmission de L Hunter d'au moins 85, (b) des niveaux non décelables dans les conditions d'utilisation de composés aromatiques sélectionnés dans acétate d'isopropyle, 2,2'-éthylidènebis(oxy)bispropane et/ou des esters d'acides gras courts ou (c) de préférence, les deux, le niveau de l'agent de conditionnement contenant des groupes alkylène polyinsaturés étant d'au moins 3 % en poids de la totalité de l'agent de conditionnement, celui-ci contenant un mélange de monoester et de diester ; (b) une quantité d'humectant supérieure à 10 % en poids. Ces compositions présentent des avantages d'hydratation, tout en étant ni graisseuses, ni collantes. L'invention concerne également, dans un autre aspect, un procédé cosmétique de traitement de la peau consistant à appliquer à cette dernière ladite composition.
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WO2003005985A1 (fr) * 2001-07-13 2003-01-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions moussantes comprenant des agents d'ammonium quaternaire
US8936796B2 (en) 2008-02-25 2015-01-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair care compositions comprising sucrose polyesters

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WO1997030679A1 (fr) * 1996-02-26 1997-08-28 The Andrew Jergens Company Compositions de soin de la peau
WO1997042279A1 (fr) * 1996-05-03 1997-11-13 Akzo Nobel N.V. Compose d'ammonium quaternaire a base de triethanolamine a haute teneur en di(alkylesters d'acides gras) produit a partir de triethanolamine
WO2000000174A1 (fr) * 1998-06-29 2000-01-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition pour le traitement des cheveux par conditionneur
WO2000000173A1 (fr) * 1998-06-29 2000-01-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition pour le traitement des cheveux par conditionneur
DE19902528A1 (de) * 1999-01-22 2000-08-03 Goldwell Gmbh Haarbehandlungsmittel

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003005985A1 (fr) * 2001-07-13 2003-01-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions moussantes comprenant des agents d'ammonium quaternaire
US8936796B2 (en) 2008-02-25 2015-01-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair care compositions comprising sucrose polyesters
US8936798B2 (en) 2008-02-25 2015-01-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair care compositions comprising sucrose polyesters

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GB9915094D0 (en) 1999-09-01

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