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WO1999037281A1 - Procede et systeme cosmetiques de soin de la peau - Google Patents

Procede et systeme cosmetiques de soin de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999037281A1
WO1999037281A1 PCT/EP1999/000335 EP9900335W WO9937281A1 WO 1999037281 A1 WO1999037281 A1 WO 1999037281A1 EP 9900335 W EP9900335 W EP 9900335W WO 9937281 A1 WO9937281 A1 WO 9937281A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
sheet
cosmetic
composition
backing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP1999/000335
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Stephan Samuel Habif
Helen Elizabeth Knaggs
William Dwight Becker
Martha Ann Brown
Philip Edward Miner
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Lever Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Lever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to AU24230/99A priority Critical patent/AU2423099A/en
Publication of WO1999037281A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999037281A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a system and a method for cosmetic skin care.
  • Cosmetic skin care compositions typically contain one or more active molecules which deliver a cosmetic benefit (e.g., anti-aging, moisturization, oil control) to the skin.
  • a cosmetic benefit e.g., anti-aging, moisturization, oil control
  • an active molecule must be able to penetrate across the stratum corneum and the debris on the skin into the viable layers of the skin.
  • the stratum corneum is a good barrier and in general very little amount of active ingredients would find its way to the living tissues.
  • skilled formulators often use penetration enhancers which tend to reduce the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Delivery, however, is still not optimum. Thus, there exists the need to improve the delivery of a cosmetic benefit compound to ensure maximum efficacy.
  • Transdermal patches are often used by pharmaceutical companies for prolonged continuous delivery of medically active molecules across the skin into the blood stream where they will be transported to other regions of the body for benefits such as hormone replacement therapy or smoking cessation.
  • the transdermal patch method consists in the application on a small region of skin of an adhesive patch which contains: (a) an active ingredient often diluted in a - 2 -
  • Transdermal patches are kept on the skin for extended periods of time (several hours or days or weeks) .
  • transdermal patches in a cosmetic field is undesirable: the patches are unsightly which precludes their prolonged use, especially on the face; their required prolonged use for efficacious delivery results in hyper- moisturization of the skin which leads to local irritation, and irritation is often exacerbated by the prolonged contact of the adhesive with the skin.
  • Adhesive strips to unclog pores and remove blackheads have been introduced into a cosmetic market recently (e.g., Pond's® Clear Pore Strips). See also U.S. Patent 5,512,277 (Uemura et al . ) . Unlike transdermal patches, cosmetic adhesive strips are usually applied to the skin for a short time (e.g., 10-15 minutes). Such products do not, however, include or suggest the use of any skin care cosmetic compositions following the removal of the strip. - 3 -
  • cyanoacrylate glue separately from the tape (e.g., the timing has to be carefully controlled); the cyanoacrylate glue is very strong and its application to the skin is likely to result in an excessive damage to the skin; and the cream applied to the skin after removal of the tape is merely an emollient cream, to reduce the cyanoacrylate glue irritation of the skin.
  • the use of cyanoacrylate glue on the skin is not commercially desirable, and has to be carefully controlled as to the duration of each application and the total duration and frequency of repeated applications.
  • sunscreen or certain cosmetic benefit agents has not been realized prior to the present invention.
  • the present invention includes a cosmetic system for skin care comprising:
  • a flexible substrate sheet comprising a backing formed from a mixture of hydrophilic and hydrophobic material, wherein the amount of the hydrophilic material is in the range of from 20 to 60 %, by weight of the backing, and the amount of hydrophobic material is in the range of from 40 to 80 % , by weight of the backing, and impregnated with an adhesive composition containing an anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymer; and
  • a cosmetic skin care composition comprising a compound selected from the group consisting of a sunscreen and a compound having a log P (log of the octanol/water partition coefficient) in the range of from -2 to 6, and mixtures thereof;
  • composition is contained in a separate unit from the sheet ;
  • the present invention also includes two cosmetic methods: (i) a cosmetic method for delivering a compound having a log P in the range of from -2 to 6 to the skin, and (ii) a cosmetic method of protecting the skin from UV radiation.
  • the sheet is used first over the desired area of the skin. This step is generally carried out for a relatively brief interval of time. After the sheet is removed, a skin care composition containing a sunscreen and/or a compound having a log P in the range of from -2 to 6 is applied to the same area of the skin.
  • This consecutive but not concomitant use of the sheet and the cosmetic benefit formulation allows for a brief use of the adhesive sheet, typically no more than fifteen to thirty minutes, a duration more acceptable to skin care consumers and which results in very limited skin irritation potential compared to the transdermal patch.
  • the use of the adhesive sheet unclogs the pores and removes blackheads .
  • the use of the specific hydrophilic/hydrophobic sheets according to the invention also improves the delivery of certain actives to the skin.
  • the present invention is based at least in part on the discovery that the use of adhesive sheets on the skin presents a problem and an advantage at the same time: it increases the potential damage to the viable layers from the environmental exposure (hence, the advantageous use of sunscreen) , yet the delivery of some cosmetic benefit agents to the viable layers is improved.
  • An essential part of the inventive system and method is a flexible substrate sheet impregnated with an adhesive - 6 -
  • composition containing an anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymer In a dry state, the composition preferably but not necessarily is non-tacky to the touch.
  • the sheet included in the present invention is formed of a mixture of hydrophilic and hydrophobic materials. This mixture may be in the form of a single layer or multiple layers. When multiple layers are employed, a dual hydrophilic/ hydrophobic character of the sheet may be achieved by using alternating hydrophilic and hydrophobic layers, or each layer may be a blend of a hydrophilic and hydrophobic materials.
  • Suitable hydrophilic materials include but are not limited to: cotton, flax, wool, rayon, silk and acetate.
  • Suitable hydrophobic materials include but are not limited to: polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester, polystyrene, vinyl, polyolefins .
  • These materials may be woven or nonwoven, or a foam.
  • Materials formed from combinations of cellulosic with thermoplastic fibers may also be employed.
  • a hydrophilic polypropylene/rayon combination can be employed for the present invention.
  • the materials for the hydrophobic layer and the hydrophilic layer may be treated with a surface active agent selected from a fatty acid ester-type nonionic surface active agent, a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, an alkyl ether sulfate, a higher alcohol sulfate, a metal salt of alkylphosphate and mixtures thereof to give the material hydrophilic property as occasion demands.
  • a surface active agent selected from a fatty acid ester-type nonionic surface active agent, a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, an alkyl ether sulfate, a higher alcohol sulfate, a metal salt of alkylphosphate and mixtures thereof to give the material hydrophilic property as occasion demands.
  • the preferred flexible sheet backing is formed of a mixture of rayon (20-40%) and polypropylene (60-80%) .
  • the impregnated substrate sheet is preferably sealably enclosed in a pouch, particularly a laminated foil package to control moisture level (to prevent the adhesive from getting brittle and crumbling off the sheet) .
  • the sheet may be shaped to accommodate the desired area of the application, e.g., as a circle, as a nose strip, as a rectangle.
  • the pouch is normally of the laminated foil variety. These are heat sealed and utilize foils with very low vapor (e.g., moisture) transmission rates (a rate of transmission less than 5% per day, preferably less than 1% per day volatile fluid gain or loss) . Walls suitable for the pouch may utilize polyester, polyethylene or polypropylene sheets, several layers of which can be laminated together. These layers may also be provided with a coating of wax or other volatile fluid impermeable material .
  • the sheet is used by either directly wetting the composition on the sheet or indirectly by wetting the face in areas to be contacted by the composition.
  • the wetting agent interacts with the composition so it becomes tacky and sufficiently mobile to adhere to the skin. If the sheet is in a pouch, it must be removed therefrom prior to wetting; the time between removal of strip from the pouch and use may be anywhere from 5 seconds to several hours, using from 10 to 20 seconds. Water is the preferred wetting agent. However, other liquid systems or gels could be - 8 -
  • Suitable wetting agents would include alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and especially mixtures of these alcohols with water.
  • Gels would normally consist of structured liquids (particularly water) thickened with structuring agents such as Carbomer.
  • the sheet composition is allowed to dry over the area of treatment. During drying, the skin stickingly adheres to the sheet composition.
  • the drying period ranges from 1 minute to 5 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour, optimally from 10 to 20 minutes. Thereafter, the dried composition with adhered keratotic and accumulated dead superficial skin cells plugs is peeled from the skin.
  • the composition includes an adhesive polymer which may either be anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof.
  • Mixtures may be of polymers within any one category or between different category types. Illustrative of the latter is a combination of an anionic and nonionic polymer.
  • nonionic polymers suitable for adhesive film deposition are the copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of an alpha-branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid such as vinyl neodecanoate; copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio about 1.1) wherein such copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcohol containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol; and acrylic copolymers, terpolymers, etc., containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters of - 9 -
  • acrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms such as methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate and behenyl acrylate, glycols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as hydroxypropyl methacrylate and hydroxyethyl acrylate, styrene, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, alkyl acrylamides and methacrylamides having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as methacry1amide, t-butyl acrylamide and n-octyl acrylamide, and other compatible unsaturated mono
  • nonionic adhesive polymers are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate and terpolymers of ethyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate.
  • Nonionic polymers containing N-vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights are available commercially from ISP Corporation such as homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight of about 630,000 under the trademark PVP K-90 and those having an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the trademark of PVP K-120.
  • Particularly preferred is poly (methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride) as an unneutralized resin available from ISP Corporation under the trademark Gantrez® S-97 BF .
  • Anionic adhesive polymers often are derived from the nonionic types which include carboxylic acid functions. - 10 -
  • Alkaline agents are employed to neutralize the carboxylic acid or anhydride transforming them into anionic salts.
  • suitable neutralizing agents include 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol (AMPD) ; 2-amino-2-ethyl-l, 3-propanediol (AEPD) ;
  • AMP 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol
  • AB 2-amino-l-butanol
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • DEA diethanolamine
  • TIPA triethanolamine
  • MIPA monoisopropanolamine
  • DIPA diisopropanolamine
  • TIPA triisopropanolamine
  • DMS dimethyl stearamine
  • anionic polymers are the salts of poly (methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride) and polystyrene sulfonic acid.
  • the former is obtained by at least partial neutralization of Gantrez® S-97 BF and the latter available from the National Starch & Chemical Company under the trademarks Versa TL-501 and Flexan® 130 having respective molecular weights of about 500,000 and 100,000.
  • Other polymer films which may be employed and are commercially available as listed in Table A below.
  • Resyn® 28-2930 (NSC) Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer
  • Resyn® 28-2913 (NSC) Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer
  • Luviset® CAP (BASF) Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl propionate copolymer
  • Gaffix® VC-713 (ISP) Vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethyl aminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
  • Cationic adhesive polymers suitable for the present invention may be prepared as homo- or copolymers from monomers including:
  • DAEA Dimethyl aminoethyl acrylate
  • DMAEMA Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
  • DMAEMA Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide
  • DMAPAAm Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide
  • DMASt Dimethylaminostyrene
  • DMAMSt Dimethyaminomethylstyrene
  • Quaternized products of these with a known quaternizing agent such as alkyl halide, benzyl halide, alkyl or aryl sulfonic acid, or dialkyl sulfate.
  • amphoteric adhesive polymers are those derived from monomers such as :
  • N- (3-sulfopropyl) -N-acryloyloxyethyl-N,N-dimethylammonium betaine N- (3-sulfopropyl) -N-methacroylamidepropyl-N,N- dimethylammonium betaine
  • N- (3-carboxymethyl) -N- methacroylamidepropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium betaine N- carboxymethy1-N-methacroyloxyethy1-N,N-dimethylammonium betaine.
  • the salt forming group of the cationic and amphoteric polymers is not ionized, it is preferred to ionize it via neutralization with known acids such as hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid which are inorganic acids; acetic acid, propionic acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycol acid which are organic acids, or with known bases such as triethylamine, trimethylamine which are tertiary amines; ammonia; or sodium hydroxide.
  • acids such as hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid which are inorganic acids
  • acetic acid, propionic acid lactic acid, succinic acid, glycol acid which are organic acids
  • known bases such as triethylamine, trimethylamine which are tertiary amines
  • ammonia or sodium hydroxide.
  • Suitable adhesive compositions for sheets are also described by Uemura et al . , (U.S. Patent 5,512,277), which is incorporated by reference herein.
  • Milder adhesives are preferred, so that the skin is not damaged and made raw. Yet the adhesive must be sufficiently strong to remove unwanted substances from stratum corneum and weaken the stratum corneum barrier function. For this reason, glues such as cyanoacrylates are preferably not used.
  • composition to substrate sheet in amount ranging from 0.1:1 to 1,000:1, preferably 0.5:1 to 100:1 and optimally 0.8:1 to 10:1 by weight.
  • the polymer ordinarily will constitute from 50 to
  • the sheet may, and preferably does include additional ingredients (in addition to an adhesive) to improve blackhead removal, while also improving the active delivery to the skin.
  • additional ingredients include
  • opacifying agents (0-1% by weight of the mixture, e.g. silica, titanium dioxide) ;
  • compositions which aid in spreading the adhesive on the skin by lowering the surface tension of the composition, such as dimethicone copolyol, ethyleneglycol, polyethylene glycols, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycols, butylene glycol, glycerols, sugar alcohols, ethylene oxides, fatty acid esters, branched alkyl ethers, and other polyols (0- 0.5% by weight of the mixture); - a preservative (0.001-0.01%, by weight of the mixture).
  • the sheet may also carry a cosmetic active ingredient, which may or may not be chosen from those listed below, the invention includes a cosmetic skin care composition which is in a separate unit from the sheet.
  • Cosmetic skin care compositions included in the present invention contain a compound selected from the group consisting of a sunscreen, a compound having an octanol/water log P in the range of from -2 to 6 to the skin, and mixtures thereof.
  • Log P is a value that reflects the polarity of a compound. The higher the number, the less polar the compound. Log P may easily be determined experimentally, using the following procedure :
  • Octanol/water log P is most conveniently measured in the laboratory using a radiolabeled test compound added to the non-radiolabeled compound of interest. It is - 15 -
  • test compound (s) , water, and n- octanol be of the highest purity available.
  • the n-octanol phase Prior to the partitioning test, the n-octanol phase is saturated with water, and vice versa, by gently mixing equal volumes of the solvents by slowly inverting on a rotator overnight.
  • Four 15-ml glass screw cap centrifuge tubes each containing 6 ml each of water and n-octanol is a convenient means to provide sufficient solvent to perform one log P determination in triplicate. The mixture is separated by centrifuging and carefully isolating the two phases, discarding a generous interface region between the layers, and re-centrifuging where necessary. If the test material is ionizable, sufficient acid or base, must be added to the aqueous phase to maintain the test material in its unionized form at the anticipated test compound concentration (0.005-0.01 M) prior to the solvent saturation step.
  • pure non-labeled test compound plus radiolabeled test compound is added to either the octanol-saturated aqueous phase or the water-saturated octanol phase to yield a concentration in the range of about 0.005 to 0.01 Molar, with the material being added to the solvent in which it has the greater solubility. (It must be completely soluble in this phase at the starting concentration.) Twenty (20) ml is a reasonable volume to prepare for one log P determination in triplicate.
  • Radioisotope concentration of about 0.5 ⁇ Ci/ml would be sufficient for most materials. Aliquots of this original solution should be counted prior to initiating the partitioning step for future reference. For the actual partitioning, precisely equal volumes of the radiolabeled - 16 -
  • the tubes are centrifuged and triplicate aliquots, e.g., 100 ⁇ L, of the upper octanol phase are removed using a positive displacement pipet and weighed into scintillation vials.
  • n-octanol phase is removed from each tube and the underlying aqueous layers re-centrifuged. Any traces of octanol are carefully removed and discarded, and triplicate aliquots of the aqueous phase e.g., 100 ⁇ L, are weighed into scintillation vials. For water soluble test compounds, an aqueous base liquid scintillation cocktail such as Ecolume (ICN Biomedicals, Inc., Irvine, CA) is added directly to the water phase aliquots.
  • Ecolume ICN Biomedicals, Inc., Irvine, CA
  • a ml of water should be added to the octanol aliquots and the samples treated in a sonic bath for 30 minutes before addition of aqueous-based liquid scintillation cocktail.
  • aqueous-based liquid scintillation cocktail for highly lipophilic materials alternative cocktails and sample treatment may be appropriate.
  • the log P value is calculated by dividing the test compound concentration, or dpm, in the octanol layer by the test compound concentration, or dpm, in the aqueous layer, and expressing the quotient as the base 10 logarithm.
  • Examples of the compounds having log P within the range of - 2 to 6 include but are not limited to the following compounds : - 17 -
  • retinol includes the following isomers of retinol all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, 9-cis- retinol, 3 , 4-didehydro-retinol .
  • Preferred isomers are all- trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 3 , 4-didehydro-retinol, 9-cis- retinol .
  • Most preferred is all-trans-retinol, due to its wide commercial availability.
  • the hydroxy acid may be present as a salt, e.g., ammonium or potassium or sodium salt. Hydroxy acid may also be present as an ester.
  • Sunscreens include those materials employed to block ultraviolet light.
  • Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate.
  • octyl methoxycinnamate, avobenzone (Parsol 1789 ® ) and 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used.
  • Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3 , respectively.
  • the exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation. - 18 -
  • the amount of the sunscreen or the compound with log P of from -2 to 6 is from 0.0001 to 20%, more preferably from 0.001 to 10% and most preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight .
  • the cosmetic skin care composition also includes a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or a carrier which is inert, usually an ingredient present in the highest amounts, and functioning to deliver active ingredients.
  • a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or a carrier which is inert, usually an ingredient present in the highest amounts, and functioning to deliver active ingredients.
  • the composition may be solid, aqueous liquid or anhydrous.
  • Vehicles other than or in addition to water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
  • An especially preferred nonaqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane.
  • Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from about 10 to 10, 000,000mm 2/ s(centistokes) at 25°C. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series.
  • the cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from 5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
  • water comprises at least 50 wt.% of the inventive emulsion, most preferably from 60 to 80 wt.%, by weight of the composition. - 19 -
  • An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • Emollients are often incorporated into cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Levels of such emollients may range from 0.5% to 50%, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons.
  • Esters may be mono- or di-esters.
  • Acceptable examples of fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, disopropyl dimerate, and dioctyl succinate.
  • Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate.
  • Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate.
  • Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate.
  • Preferred esters include coco- caprylate/caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate and coco- caprate) , propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids.
  • polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds.
  • emollients linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds.
  • propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymeric polyols such as poly-propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol . Butylene and propylene glycol are also especially preferred as penetration enhancers .
  • hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene and isoparaffins .
  • thickeners are also categories of functional ingredients within the cosmetic compositions of the present invention.
  • a thickener will usually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate materials available under the trademark Carbopol from the B.F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan, carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual functionality.
  • Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, kaolin, starch, smectite clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof . - 21 -
  • adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers and perf mes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is contained in a separate unit from the adhesive sheet (i.e., it is not on the sheet).
  • the cosmetic system of the present invention includes the flexible sheet and the cosmetic composition as described above and the instructions for a sequential use of the sheet followed by the composition.
  • the sheet, the composition, and the instructions are preferably part of the same package, e.g., a kit.
  • the package may include several or a plurality of sheets and a regular size container of the cosmetic composition; or it may include a single sheet and a small supply (e.g., three days' amount) of the cosmetic composition.
  • the flexible sheet containing an adhesive is applied to the desired area of the skin.
  • the sheet is applied for a relatively brief period, i.e., from 1 minute to 5 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour.
  • the sheet is then peeled off and the cosmetic skin care composition is applied within the next 72 hours, preferably within the next 48 hours, before the stratum corneum recovered its integrity, most preferably right after or within 1-30 minutes after the removal of the sheet.
  • the composition is preferably repeatedly applied during the 72 hour period, e.g., at least - 22 -
  • the sheet is preferably applied to the skin once every 5-7 days to maximize the efficacy while minimizing the potential discomfort occasioned by the stripping.
  • the skin care cosmetic composition for example from 1 to 10 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
  • the composition can be packaged in a container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer.
  • a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll- ball applicator, or a capsule, or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation.
  • the composition can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar.
  • the skin penetration tests used to determine delivery enhancement effects of pore cleansing strip treatment were performed using piglet skin, Bronaugh flow-through penetration cells and radiolabeled test materials.
  • the skin was pretreated by applying the pore strip products as directed on the packages, then dosed with radiolabeled test actives in a cosmetic base. After six hours of unoccluded skin: product contact, excess product was washed off with water and the skin layers collected and counted for radioactivity. Details follow.
  • Nolvasan-washed three-four (3-4) week old female dorsal piglet skin was obtained from Buckshire Corporation, Perkasie, PA. The skins were shipped on wet ice and stored at -70°C until use.
  • Teflon 'Bronaugh' flow-through penetration cells with 9-mm diameter orifices, heated cell blocks and Isco Retriever IV fraction collectors were purchased as a complete testing assembly from Crown Bio-Scientific, Somerville, NJ .
  • the cell blocks were heated by means of a Haake constant temperature bath and Haake Cl immersion circulator from Cole Parmer, Niles, IL.
  • Receptor fluid was pumped through the cell reservoirs via a Masterflex peristaltic pump, model 7518-10, and two Omnifit 8-way manual Teflon valves, also from Cole Parmer.
  • Receptor fluid was prepared using Hank's Balanced salt solution (Sigma H8264) and HEPES free acid (Sigma 9136) .
  • Skin pre-treatment was performed using 3M Scotch R brand cellophane tape, or flexible adhesive sheets A and B, having a formulation as described in Table 1.
  • test molecules were applied to the skin from cream base as described in Table 2. - 25 -
  • composition 87.8% gantrez (anionic) 3.98% propylene carbonate 0.76% silica 0.6% Ti02 0.25% Abil 8852 0.006 % glydant plus 6.624% water Blend backing
  • test materials were present in the base formulation in the amounts indicated in Table 3 and Table 2, replacing an equal weight of water.
  • the radiolabeled test materials were purchased at 1 mCi/ml from American Radio-labeled Chemicals, Inc., St. Louis, MO, or DuPont New England Nuclear, Wilmington, DE, or Moravek Biochemicals , Brea, CA, as indicated in Table 4 as ARC (or ART) , NEC, or MC, respectively.
  • Fully formulated non-radiolabeled test products were labeled with radioactive test material at least one day before the test by adding 30 ⁇ L of radiolabeled test material (1 mCi/ml) to a 1-gram sample of formulation to yield a 30 ⁇ Ci/gram test product.
  • the formulation was mixed with a closed-end capillary and equilibrated overnight. Radiolabel homogeneity was demonstrated by counting six (6) 2- ⁇ L aliquots taken from the top, middle, and bottom of the vial.
  • the moist adhesive sheets were applied to one half of each dermatomed skin section, the sheets were permitted to dry until moderate resistance was met when the edges of the sheets were pulled gently away from the skin (15-30 minutes) , the sheets were removed, and equal numbers of 18-mm discs cut from the treated and untreated sides of the skin.
  • the discs were cut out first, randomized into two groups, and half of them applied to moistened flexible - 29
  • the skin discs were dosed with 2 ⁇ L of the radiolabeled product using a 10- ⁇ L displaced volume pipet (Gilson M10) .
  • the dose was rubbed evenly onto the 9-mm diameter exposed skin surface with a latex finger cot stretched over a cotton tip applicator.
  • the finger cots were retained for radioisotope counting and the '100% applied dose' determined by subtracting the cot value from the 2- ⁇ L aliquot dpm value obtained during the homogeneity check in the test sample preparation section above.
  • the products were left in contact with the skin for six (6) hours, unoccluded, with receptor fluid being sampled at 1- hour intervals in 28-ml borosilicate scintillation vials (Fisher Scientific) .
  • the skin surface was rinsed with triplicate ⁇ l-ml aliquots of water, the skin discs were removed from the apparatus, and blotted with 1/3 of a Kim Wipe.
  • the upper surface of each skin disc was tape-stripped by pressing 9 times with fresh Scotch transparent tape to obtain the stratum corneum, or in the case of the pre-treated skin, the upper 9 layers of - 31 -
  • Dermis samples were digested in 3 ml NCSII tissue solubilizer for 48 hours or until completely liquefied, and 100- ⁇ L aliquots of the dermal digests counted in ScintiVerse organic based liquid scintillation cocktail.
  • Percent of dose in each tissue compartment and receptor fluid sample was determined by dividing the dpm in the tissue or fluid sample by the dpm in the 100% theoretical dose. (Background dpm were subtracted from all samples and standards prior to any other calculations.) For dermis, dpm in the NCS dermis digest aliquots were multiplied by 30, after background subtraction, to account for the full dermis sample. Percent of dose in each tissue compartment or receptor fluid sample was averaged for the seven (7) samples in each test group to obtain the final figures presented in the results table. Suspected outliers were eliminated only if they met *Q-test criteria. Statistics were performed in the Lotus 123 spreadsheets using a homoscedastic Student's T-Test if F- test results were greater than 0.2, or a heteroscedastic T- Test if F-values were less than 0.2.
  • Delivery data are presented in the results table as delivery to combined skin tissue compartments, delivery to receptor fluid, and delivery to total tissue plus fluid delivery.
  • Final test-to-control ratio percent was calculated by dividing total delivery to treated tissues by total delivery to untreated tissues and multiplying by 100.
  • the suspected outlier may be rejected with 90% confidence if the result exceeds the value below:
  • a variety of polymers were evaluated for their adhesive effects in removing keratotic plugs from the skin.
  • the polymers listed in Table 7 below were coated onto a non- woven resin bonded rayon (1 ounce/square yard) .
  • a knife- over-roll was utilized in the coating operation.
  • the non-woven polymer impregnated substrate sheets were dried at 75°C in a convection oven. They were then cut into small patches.
  • test patches were applied to the face of panelists in an area containing several plugged pores .
  • the plugged pores were counted. Water was applied to the patch and it was then placed over the test area with wet side down. Next, the patch was allowed to dry whereupon it was peeled off. The number of plugs removed were counted as they appeared on the adhesive patch. Percentage of plugs removed were calculated to reflect efficiency of the test product.

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Abstract

Cette invention se rapporte à un procédé et à un système cosmétiques servant à appliquer sur la peau un composé ayant un coefficient de partage octanol/eau log P compris entre -2 et 6. Cette invention décrit également un procédé et un système cosmétiques servant à protéger la peau contre les atteintes par les rayons ultraviolets, après que la peau a été nettoyée avec une composition adhésive.
PCT/EP1999/000335 1998-01-23 1999-01-21 Procede et systeme cosmetiques de soin de la peau WO1999037281A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU24230/99A AU2423099A (en) 1998-01-23 1999-01-21 Skin care cosmetic method and system

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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US7224998P 1998-01-23 1998-01-23
US60/072,249 1998-01-23

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7998464B2 (en) * 2005-09-29 2011-08-16 L'oreal S.A. Process for the photoprotective treatment of artificially dyed keratin fibers by application of a liquid water/steam mixture
EP1691771B1 (fr) * 2003-12-12 2013-11-27 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Produits de tissu contenant une composition de nettoyage

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS57123117A (en) * 1981-01-23 1982-07-31 Nitto Electric Ind Co Ltd Administration of drug from adhesive preparation
EP0267293A1 (fr) * 1986-04-24 1988-05-18 Kabushiki Kaisya Advance Agent de pretraitement pour administration percutanee
US4752472A (en) * 1986-03-25 1988-06-21 Exovir, Inc. Cosmetic skin treatment useing cyanoacrylate polymer film
WO1996014822A1 (fr) * 1994-11-15 1996-05-23 Osmotics Corporation Procedes et compositions de soins pour la peau
JPH08143458A (ja) * 1994-11-17 1996-06-04 Sekisui Chem Co Ltd 経皮吸収貼付剤
WO1997032567A1 (fr) * 1996-03-04 1997-09-12 Kao Corporation Compresse cosmetique en feuille

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS57123117A (en) * 1981-01-23 1982-07-31 Nitto Electric Ind Co Ltd Administration of drug from adhesive preparation
US4752472A (en) * 1986-03-25 1988-06-21 Exovir, Inc. Cosmetic skin treatment useing cyanoacrylate polymer film
EP0267293A1 (fr) * 1986-04-24 1988-05-18 Kabushiki Kaisya Advance Agent de pretraitement pour administration percutanee
WO1996014822A1 (fr) * 1994-11-15 1996-05-23 Osmotics Corporation Procedes et compositions de soins pour la peau
JPH08143458A (ja) * 1994-11-17 1996-06-04 Sekisui Chem Co Ltd 経皮吸収貼付剤
WO1997032567A1 (fr) * 1996-03-04 1997-09-12 Kao Corporation Compresse cosmetique en feuille

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
E. SIEMER ET AL.: "Cosmetic and Toiletries Development, Production and Use", 1991, ELLIS HORWOOD LTD, ENGLAND, XP002104332 *
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 006, no. 219 (C - 132) 2 November 1982 (1982-11-02) *
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 096, no. 010 31 October 1996 (1996-10-31) *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1691771B1 (fr) * 2003-12-12 2013-11-27 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Produits de tissu contenant une composition de nettoyage
US7998464B2 (en) * 2005-09-29 2011-08-16 L'oreal S.A. Process for the photoprotective treatment of artificially dyed keratin fibers by application of a liquid water/steam mixture

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AU2423099A (en) 1999-08-09
AR018736A1 (es) 2001-12-12

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