WO1999009943A1

WO1999009943A1 - Sunscreening agent containing fatty acid polyglycol ester sulphates

Info

Publication number: WO1999009943A1
Application number: PCT/EP1998/005186
Authority: WO
Inventors: Achim Ansmann; Bernd Fabry; Hermann Hensen
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh
Priority date: 1997-08-25
Filing date: 1998-08-17
Publication date: 1999-03-04

Abstract

New sunscreening agents, preferably in the form of oil-in-water microemulsions, contain (a) fats; (b) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulphates; and (c) UV filters. These agents are characterised by high transparency and phase stability, as well as special cosmetic skin compatibility.

Description

Sunscreen

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to sunscreens containing oil bodies, selected anionic emulsifiers and UV light protection filters and the use of these mixtures for the production of sun protection agents.

State of the art

The pigmentation of normal skin leads to the formation of melanins under the influence of solar radiation. Irradiation with long-wave UV-A light causes the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis to darken without any damaging consequences, while the short-wave UV-B radiation causes the formation of new melanin. Before the protective pigment can be formed, however, the skin is exposed to the unfiltered radiation, which, depending on the duration of exposure, can lead to skin redness (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) or even burn blisters. The stress on the organism associated with such skin lesions, for example in connection with the release of histamines, can additionally lead to headache, weariness, fever, cardiovascular disorders and the like. For the consumer who wants to protect himself from the harmful aspects of solar radiation, the market offers a large number of products, most of which are oils and milky emulsions, which, in addition to some care substances, contain UV filters. An overview of this can be found, for example, from P.Finkel in Parf.Kosm. 76, 432 (1995) and S.Schauder in Parf.Kosm. 76, 490 (1995).

Nevertheless, there is still a need in the market for products with an improved range of services. Of particular interest are preparations which allow the incorporation of large quantities of UV light protection filters without phase separation or sedimentation taking place during storage. A formulation prepared by the phase inversion temperature method, as described, for example, in European patent application EP-A1 066 144 (L'Oreal), tends to be used when incorporating large amounts of titanium dioxide very quickly to remove the dispersed solid. Another problem is that many UV light protection filters can interact with the other components of the formulation, which leads to a chemical reaction and also to a decrease in shelf life. Finally, the consumer desires transparent formulations which are highly compatible with skin cosmetics even with very sensitive skin. The complex object of the invention was therefore to provide sunscreens which are characterized at the same time by special phase stability, storage stability, transparency and compatibility with sensitive skin.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to sunscreens containing

(a) oil body,

(b) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(c) UV light protection filter.

Surprisingly, it has been found that preparations of the type described, preferably in the form of O / W microemulsions, are extremely stable in storage even when larger amounts of UV light stabilizers are incorporated and are distinguished by a particularly high level of skin-cosmetic compatibility. Due to their fine-particle nature, they are also transparent, which contributes to the aesthetic appearance of the products. The invention includes the finding that particularly advantageous preparations are obtained if mixtures of (b1) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and (b2) fatty acid monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and / or alkyl oligoglucosides in a weight ratio of 10:90 to are used as emulsifiers 90:10 and preferably 25:75 to 75:25.

Oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-C ₃ carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22- Fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Cιo -Fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Cι ₀ -fatty acids, esters of C6-C-22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), dialkyl ethers, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Silicone compounds can also be used as oil bodies, for example dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, alkyl and / or glycoside-modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and at room temperature can be resinous. The oil bodies can be present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 1 to 90, preferably 5 to 75 and in particular 10 to 50% by weight, based on the non-aqueous fraction.

Fatty acid polyol ester sulfates

Fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates are produced by sulfating the corresponding fatty acid polyglycol esters. These in turn can be obtained using the relevant preparative processes in organic chemistry. For this purpose, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or a mixture thereof - in random or block distribution - is added to the corresponding fatty acids, this reaction being acid-catalyzed, but preferably in the presence of bases, such as, for example, sodium methylate or calcined hydrotalcite. If a degree of alkoxylation of 1 is desired, the intermediates can also be prepared by esterifying the fatty acids with an appropriate alkylene glycol. The sulfation of the fatty acid polyglycol esters can be carried out in a manner known per se with chlorosulfonic acid, amidosulfonic acid or preferably gaseous sulfur trioxide, the molar ratio between fatty acid polyglycol ester and sulfating agent being in the range from 1: 0.95 to 1: 1, 2, preferably 1: 1 to 1 : 1, 1 and the reaction temperature can be 30 to 80 and preferably 50 to 60 ° C. It is also possible to undersulfate the fatty acid polyglycol esters, ie to use significantly fewer sulfating agents than would be stoichiometrically required for complete conversion. For example, if one chooses molar amounts of fatty acid polyglycol ester to sulfating agent from 1: 0.5 to 1: 0.95, mixtures of fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and fatty acid polyglycol esters are obtained, which are also advantageous for a whole range of applications. In order to avoid hydrolysis, it is very important to carry out the neutralization at a pH in the range from 5 to 9, preferably 7 to 8. Typical examples of suitable starting materials are the addition products of 1 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, but preferably the adducts with 1 mole of ethylene oxide or 1 mole of propylene oxide with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, Palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mix which are then sulfated and neutralized as described above. Fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates of the formula (I) are preferably used in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 12 to 14 or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, x for an average of 1 or 2, AO for a CH∑C ^ O group and X for sodium or ammonium, such as, for example, lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate -Sodium salt, tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt and mixtures thereof. The proportion of fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates is usually - based on the non-aqueous part - 10 to 90, preferably 25 to 75 and in particular 40 to 60% by weight.

Monoqlceride (ether) sulfates

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates, which are suitable as anionic co-emulsifiers, are known anionic surfactants which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The usual starting point for their preparation is triglycerides, which, if appropriate, are transesterified to the monoglycerides after ethoxylation and subsequently sulfated and neutralized. It is also possible to react the partial glycerides with suitable sulfating agents, preferably gaseous sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid [cf. EP-B1 0561825, EP-B1 0561999 (Henkel)]. If desired, the neutralized substances can be subjected to ultrafiltration in order to reduce the electrolyte content to a desired level [DE-A1 4204700 (Henkel)]. Overviews of the chemistry of the monoglyceride sulfates are, for example, by A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U.Ahmed J.Am.Oil.Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990). The monoglyceride (ether) sulfates to be used in accordance with the invention preferably follow the formula (II),

CH ₂ 0 (CH2CH ₂ 0) _a -COR ²

I CH-0 (CH CH ₂ 0) _b H (II)

I CH2θ (CH2CH ₂ 0) c-S0 ₃ X

in which R ¹ CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their form of sulfuric acid with sulfuric acid trioxide. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (II) are preferably used in which R ² CO stands for a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Alkyl ether sulfates

Alkyl ether sulfates ("ether sulfates"), which are also suitable as anionic co-emulsifiers, are known surfactants which are produced on an industrial scale by SO ₃ - or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol polyglycol ethers and subsequent neutralization. For the purposes of the invention, ether sulfates which follow the formula (III) are suitable

R30- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) mS0 ₃ X (III)

in which R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m is a number from 1 to 10 and X is an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples are the sulfates of addition products with an average of 1 to 10 and in particular 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide with capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostyl alcohol, isostyl alcohol alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brasidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts. The ether sulfates can have both a conventional and a narrow homolog distribution. It is particularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of an average of 2 to 3 mol ethylene oxide with technical C12 / 14 or C12 / 18 coconut oil alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl olefin glycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which are suitable as nonionic co-emulsifiers are known surfactants which follow the formula (IV)

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (IV)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. As representative of the extensive literature, reference is made here to the documents EP-A1 0301298 and WO 90/03977. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (IV) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound and can in particular take on the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, usually a fractional number represents. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and is in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₀ -CIQ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical Cβ-Cis-coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and can be contaminated with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of Ci2 alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C9 / 11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures described above, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci2 / i4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

The proportion of the co-emulsifiers mentioned is usually - based on the nonaqueous part - 5 to 75, preferably 10 to 50 and in particular 15 to 30% by weight.

UV light protection filter

UV light protection filters are organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.

Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters. (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate are also suitable for this purpose. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996). The proportion of the light stabilizers in the agents according to the invention is - based on the non-aqueous fraction - usually 10 to 90, preferably 25 to 75 and in particular 40 to 60% by weight. The agents according to the invention as such can contain 1 to 95, preferably 5 to 80 and in particular 10 to 60% by weight of water. If organic compounds are used as light stabilizers, their co-emulsifying properties can also be used to prepare the preparations. Microemulsions

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the sun protection agents are in the form of microemulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions. Microemulsions are optically isotropic, thermodynamically stable systems that contain oil components, emulsifiers and water. The clear or transparent appearance of the microemulsions is a consequence of the small particle size of the dispersed emulsion droplets, which are essentially below 300, preferably 50 to 300 nm. In the range between 100 and 300 nm, finely divided microemulsions are obtained which are brown-red when viewed and bluish shimmering in reflected light. Microemulsions are clear in the region below a droplet diameter of 100 nm. The agents are preferably produced in a cold process in which oil bodies and emulsifiers are emulsified with water and then the UV light protection filter and, if appropriate, further additives are added. The desired active substance content can be set by adding water and / or hydrotropes.

Industrial applicability

The agents according to the invention are notable for high transparency and phase stability with particularly advantageous skin-cosmetic compatibility. Typical preparations have the following composition:

(a) 1 to 90, preferably 5 to 80% by weight oil body,

(b) 10 to 90, preferably 25 to 75% by weight of emulsifiers and

(c) 10 to 90, preferably 25 to 75% by weight UV light protection filter,

with the proviso that the quantities add up to 100% by weight. Particularly stable and finely divided microemulsions are obtained within the concentration ranges mentioned.

As additional ingredients, they can contain minor amounts of additional anionic surfactants that are compatible with the other ingredients. Typical examples are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfate on ate, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfated fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxymixed ether sulfates, fatty acid amide and sulfyl monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate and monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, monosulfate, mono- , Sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, wheat acid and protein amides (fatty acid-based) (vegetable acid based) fatty acid products (especially fatty acids) ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants are polyglycol contain ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.

The agents according to the invention may further contain co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, stabilizers, waxes, consistency enhancers, thickeners, cation polymers, biogenic agents, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, colorants and fragrances as further auxiliaries and additives. Examples of suitable co-emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogues;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside - glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol and

(13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Cβ / iβ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ / iβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

The main consistency factors are fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylic amides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaterniert.es chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

n Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers to, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam and etherified terpolymers and optionally derivates.

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate can be used. Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.

Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, • Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propylate and pionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, oc-isomethylionon and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, oc-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, allyl oil oil, orangol oil, orangol oil, orangol oil, are preferred , Muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" of the dye commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. Another object of the invention finally relates to the use of O / W microemulsions containing

(a) oil body,

(b) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(c) UV light protection filter.

for the production of sunscreens.

Examples

The O / W microemulsions R1 to R6 according to the invention were produced in a cold process. For this purpose, the oil bodies were emulsified in water together with the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible UV light protection filters and the emulsifiers; wax-like components were melted and incorporated at a slightly elevated temperature, water-soluble or water-dispersible UV filters were introduced together with the aqueous phase. Water-clear microemulsions were obtained. The transmission of the emulsions was determined photometrically at 650 nm. The stability was assessed after storage at 40 ° C. for 12 weeks. Here, (+++) = no phase separation / sedimentation and (++) no phase separation / slight turbidity. The results are summarized in Table 1.

Table 1 O / W microemulsions

Claims

claims

1. Containing sunscreen

(a) oil body,

(b) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(c) UV light protection filter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain oil bodies which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22- Fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cβ -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cδ-Ciβ fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexane s, linear C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols, dialkyl ethers, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons as well as silicone oils.

3. Composition according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that they contain fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates of the formula (I) as emulsifier component,

R ⁱ COO (AO) _x S0 ₃ X (I)

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x is an average of 1 to 3 and AO is a CH2CH2O-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 0- and / or CH ( CH ₃ ) CH ₂ 0 radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium

4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they further contain monoglyceride (ether) sulfates of the formula (II) as emulsifier component, CH2θ (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _a -COR ²

I.

CH-0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _b H (II)

in which R ² CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, a, b and c in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30 and X for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.

5. Compositions according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they further contain alkyl ether sulfates of the formula (III) as emulsifier component,

R30- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) mS0 ₃ X (III)

in which R ^{3 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m represents numbers from 1 to 10 and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.

according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they further contain alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (IV) as emulsifier components,

R 0- [G] _p (IV)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.

7. Composition according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain UV light protection filters which are selected from the group formed by 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, esters of cinnamic acid, esters of salicylic acid, Derivatives of benzophenone, esters of benzalmalonic acid, triazine derivatives, propane-1, 3-dione, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, and benzoylmethane derivatives.

8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain finely dispersed metal oxides or salts as UV light protection filters, which are selected from the group formed by titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (Talc) and barium sulfate.

9. Composition according to claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain, as UV light stabilizers, antioxidants which are selected from the group formed by superoxide Dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

10. Using O / W microemulsions containing

(a) oil body,

(b) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(c) UV light protection filter.

for the production of sunscreens.