WO1997030690A1

WO1997030690A1 - Skin treatment with salicylic acid esters

Info

Publication number: WO1997030690A1
Application number: PCT/EP1997/000386
Authority: WO
Inventors: Angel Augusto Guerrero; Peter Ladislaus Dorogi; Thomas Charles Klepacky
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.
Priority date: 1996-02-23
Filing date: 1997-01-23
Publication date: 1997-08-28
Also published as: AR014091A1; AU1596497A

Abstract

A method is provided for treating skin conditions including those arising from dermatologic disorders, chronoaging and environmental abuse. Non-ring esterified C11-C30 alkyl or alkenyl esters of salicylic acid are used as the active component in combination with a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. Most preferred is tridecyl salicylate.

Description

SKIN TREATMENT WITH SALICYLIC ACID ESTERS

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

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The present invention concerns methods of treating skin with compositions containing certain esters of salicylic acid and use of such esters in such compositions.

The Related Art

Skin is subject to deterioration through dermatologic disorders or normal aging (chronoaging) as well as extrinsic factors (environmental) . Dermatologic disorders include such conditions as acne, dry skin, dandruff, keratosis, pruritus, inflammatory dermatoses, eczema, psoriasis and tenia pedis (athlete's foot).

Chronoaging results in the thinning and general degradation of skin. As skin naturally ages, there is reduction in the cells and blood vessels that supply the skin. There is also a flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction which results in weaker mechanical resistance. Older individuals increasingly develop facial fine lines, wrinkles, leatheriness, yellowing, sagging, mottling (hyperpig entation) , age spots and the general signs of aging.

Extrinsic factors are primarily those caused by exposure to sun. Changes are most prominent in light skinned individuals who burn easily and tan poorly. The results of photodamage may be identical to those of aging except appearing at an accelerated rate. Wrinkling, yellowing, leatheriness, mottling and hyperpigmentation are all associated with sun damage. Most disturbing to many individuals is the wrinkling effect. It is a prime reminder of the disappearance of youth. As a result, there have been many reports of cosmetic treatments aimed at the elimination of wrinkles.

PCT applications WO 93/10755 and WO 93/10756 report salicylic acid as an effective anti-wrinkling agent. U.S. Patent 5,262,407 reports use of ring acylated salicylic acid as a treatment against skin aging. Salicylic acid has also been described for the treatment of acne in U.S. Patent 4,891,227 and U.S. Patent 4,891,228. Moreover, salicylic acid has been used for the removal of warts, corns and calluses; for the treatment of psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff; and for the topical treatment of ringworm infection. A listing of commercially available products containing salicylic acid will be found in the Physician's Desk Reference, 45th Edition, 1991, page 323.

Ring alkylated salicylic acid has been reported in Japanese Patent 4036238 (Takasago Perfumery KK) for treatment of acne vulgaris.

Significant irritation is often associated with the use of salicylic acid. Another problem is that salicylic acid is not always readily formulatable into oily compositions. Derivatives of salicylic acid most often leave the acidic function free. Irritatio:. caused by acidity is therefore not prevented by such derivatives.

Accordingly it is an object of the present invention to provide a treatment for a variety of dermatologic disorders such as acne, dry skin, dandruff, keratosis, pruritus, inflammatory dermatosis, eczema, psoriasis and tinea pedis.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic treatment for chronoaging conditions including wrinkling and fine lines, leatheriness, yellowing, sagging, mottling (hyperpigmentation), age spots, thinning of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of collagen and the general signs of aging.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic treatment against environmental abuse to skin including wrinkling and fine lines, yellowing, leatheriness, mottling and hyperpigmentation.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a treatment to improve the condition of skin with a composition and active that does not impart irritation.

These and other objects of the present invention will become more readily apparent from the following summary and detailed discussion.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A method is provided for treating skin conditions selected from the group consisting of dermatologic skin disorders, chronoaging, environmental abuse and combinations thereof, by applying to the skin a composition including as an active a salicylate ester having the structure (I):

(I)

wherein R is a C_n-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical.

The invention also encompasses the use of a salicylate ester as described above in a composition for topical application to the skin as an active for treating a skin condition selected from the group consisting of dermatologic disorders, chronoaging and environmental abuse.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Now it has been discovered that deterioration of skin through dermatologic disorders, chronoaging and environmental abuse (e.g. sun and wind) can be reduced, inhibited and even reversed through application of a cosmetic composition including as active a non-ring ester derivative of salicylic acid having formula (I):

wherein R is a C_n-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical. Preferred are the C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl, optimally the C₁₃ alkyl or alkenyl esters of salicylic acid. The most preferred is tridecyl salicylate.

The ^sent invention applies in particular for such dermέ -logic disorders as a ne, dry skin, dandruff, kerat-sis, pruritus, inflammatory dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and tinea pedis. Regarding chronoaging, it applies particularly for conditions involving wrinkling, fine lines, leatheriness, yellowing, sagging, hyperpigmentation, age spots, thinning of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of collagen and/or general signs of aging. Use of the present salicylate ester in skin care compositions for treating skin that has been subjected to environmental abuse is in particular beneficial in case of conditions exhibiting wrinkling, fine lines, leatheriness, yellowing, mottling and/or hyperpigmentation.

"Safe and effective amounts" of the C_n-C₃₀ esters of salicylic acid are to be used within cosmetic compositions of the present invention. The term "safe and effective amounts" are defined as any amount sufficient to significantly induce a positive modification in the condition to be treated, but low enough to avoid serious side effects (at a reasonable benefit/risk ratio) , within the scope of sound medical judgement. The safe and effective amount of the salicylate esters will vary with the particular condition being treated, the age and physical condition of the person being treated, the severity of the condition, the duration of the treatment, the nature of concurrent treatment, the specific ester employed, the particular pharmaceutically-acceptable carrier utilized, and like factors in the knowledge and expertise of the attending specialist. Generally these amounts may range from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 8%, optimally from 2 to 6% by weight.

Besides the active salicylate ester, compositions of the present invention will utilize a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. The carrier may either be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably the compositions are aqueous, especially water and oil emulsions of the W/O or O/W variety. Water when present will usually be in amounts which may range from 5 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally between 35 and 60% by weight. Besides or in combination with water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric C_j-C₃ alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 50%, optimally between 15 to 40% by weight.

Emollient materials may also serve as pharmaceutically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapour pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms.

Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.

Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polya.- yl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about 100,000 centistokes at 25°C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25°C.

Among the ester emollients are:

(1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.

(2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

(3) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.

(4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate. (5) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof.

The most preferred esters are isoarachidyl neopentanoate and isononyl isononanoate. Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as pharmaceutically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as pharmaceutically acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.

Thickeners may also be utilized as part of the pharmaceutically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982®), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382®), cellulosic derive ives and natural gums. Among useful cellulosic deri" stives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotiu , carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums. Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 5%, usually from 0.001 to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.

Collectively the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or thickeners will constitute the pharmaceutically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.

Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may include emulsified systems such as lotions and creams, microemulsions, roll-on formulations, mousses, ointments (hydrophilic and hydrophobic) , aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and pad- applied formulations.

Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. In such case, total concentration of the surfactant will typically range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a C₁₀-C₂₀ fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C₂-C₁₀ alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di- fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C₈-C₂₀ fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.

Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C₈-C₂₀ acyl isethionates, acyl glutamates, C₈-C₂₀ alkyl ether phosphates and combinations thereof.

Sunscreen actives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available as Parsol MCX, and benzophenone-3, also known as Oxybenzone. Inorganic sunscreen actives may be employed such as microfine titanium dioxide, polyethylene and various other polymers. Amounts of the sunscreen agents will generally range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 4 to 10% by weight.

Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability.

Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. The preserva¬ tives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.

Compositions of the present invention may also contain water-soluble vitamins. The term water-soluble defines substances with a solubility of at least 0.1%, preferably at least 1%, optimally at least 5% by weight in water. Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are Niacin, Vitamin B₆, Vitamin B₆, Vitamin C and Biotin. One source for Vitamin C is a product sold under the trademark of Vitazyme C available from the Brooks Company. Niacin, Vitamin B and Biotin are available from Roche Pharmaceuticals. Total amount of vitamins in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 1%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.6, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.

Keratolytic agents such as C₂-C₂₅ o-hydroxy alkanoic acids may also be incorporated into compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this group of materials are glycolic, lactic, α-hydroxyoctanoic acids and salts thereof. The salts may be selected from alkalimetal, ammonium and

alkyl or alkanolammonium counterions. Levels of o-hydroxyalkanoic acids may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably between 0.2 and 1%, optimally between 0.4 and 0.5% by weight.

Minor adjunct ingredients may also be present in the cosmetic compositions. Among them may be the water- insoluble vitamins such as Vitamin A Palmitate, Vitamin E Acetate and DL-panthenol.

Another adjunct ingredient can be that of an enzyme. Particularly preferred is superoxide dismutase, commercially available as Biocell SOD from the Brooks Company, USA.

Natural vegetable materials from renewable resources are often desirable in cosmetic compositions. For instance, cosmetic compositions of the present invention may include β-glucan derived from oats, commercially available under the trademark Microat SF from Nurture Inc, Missoula, Montana.

Colorants, fragrances, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from about 0.05 to about 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

The following Examples will more fully illustrate embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1 (comparison)

The following sunscreen creme was prepared having a composition indicated under Table I.

TABLE I

COMPONENT WEIGHT %

Carbopol 1382® (2% solids) 8.000

Cydomethicone 6.000

Parsol MCX® 6.000

Isoarachidyl Neopentanoate 4.300

Benzophenone-3 3.000

Glycerin 3.000

Isononyl Isononanoate 2.500

Arlacel 165 VS® (GMS/PEG) 1.700

BRIJ 721® (Vegetable) 1.200

Isostearic Acid 1.200

Polymethyl Methacrylate 1.000

Cetyl Alcohol 1.000 Triethanolamine 0.770

Phenoxyethano1 0.700

Actiglyde-J Special® (Bio-hyaluronic acid) 0.500

Vitamin E Acetate 0.500

BRIJ 72® (Vegetable) 0.300

Methylparaben 0.300

Polyethylene (A-C 400)® 0.300

Algae Extract 0.250

Glydant® 0.200

DL-Panthenol 0.200

C₁₂-C₂₀ Acid-PEG 8 Esters 0.200

Trilaureth-4-Phosphate 0.200

Silicone 200 (lOcst) 0.200

Microat SF® 0.200

Niacin 0.200

A igel® 0.170

Vitazyme C® 0.100

Superoxide Dismutase 0.100

Vitamin B₆ 0.100

Vitamin A Palmitate 0.100

Propylparaben 0.100

Disodium EDTA 0.100

L-Lactic Acid 0.010

Biotin 0.001

Deionized Water qs

EXAMPLE 2

A cre e was prepared having a composition described in Table II.

TABLE II

COMPONENT WEIGHT %

Carbopol 1382® (2% Solids) 18.000

Cyclomethicone 6.000

Cetyl Alcohol 4.400

Spectron SA-13® (Tridecyl Salicylate) 4.000

Glycerin 3.000

Isoarachidyl Neopentanoate 2.400

Emulgade 100 NI® 1.750

Willowbark Extract 1.500

Triethanolamine 99% 1.420

Ci8"~C₃₆ Fatty Acid 1.200

BRIJ 721® (Vegetable) 1.200

Arachidyl Behenate 1.000

Actiglyde-J Special® 1.000

Polymethyl Methacrylate 1.000

Vitamin E Acetate 1.000

Sodium Pyrolidone Carboxylate (50% solids) 0.750

Algae Extract 0.500

DL-Panthenol 0.500

Silicone 200 (10 cst) 0.400

C₁₂-C₂₀ Acid-PEG 8 Esters 0.400

Microat SF® 0.360

Bernel Ester TOC® 0.360

Glydant® 0.300 Methylparaben 0.300

BRIJ 72® (Vegetable) 0.300

Polyethylene (A-C 400)® 0.300

Shea Butter 0.200

Disodium EDTA 0.100

Amigel® 0.100

Propylparaben 0.100

Vitamin A Acetate 0.100

L-Lactic Acid 0.010

Biotin 0.001

Vitazyme C® 0.001

Deionized Water qs

EXAMPLE 3

A clinical study was performed on the compositions of Examples 1 and 2. The objective of this study was to evaluate the dermatologic irritation and acnegenic potential of these two compositions when used under exaggerated conditions for twenty-eight days. The study was a monadic treatment type study. The test panel was comprised of 45 female human volunteer subjects (21 using Example 1 and 24 using Example 2). Enrolled subjects had a facial acne grade of II (Pilsbury) or lower and no facial irritation beyond the specific acne lesions.

On days 1, 8, 15 and 29 the investigator assessed the global facial irritation and acne condition of each subject. The lighting conditions, fluorescent overhead lights in a fluorescent ring lamp with a diopter lens (as needed) were identical for each evaluation. Each subject used either product twice daily (morning and evening) for twenty-eight days, recording all use on a diary form. The investigator's global facial assessments of open lesions, closed lesions, papules, pustules, nodules and irritation were transferred via data entry from the original data sheets to computer. Analysis was conducted using the paired sample t-Test on the global mean scores within each product group and on the differences from baseline in global mean scores for a product vs. product comparison. Significance was assessed at the p 0.05 level (95% confidence) . Pustules, nodules and irritation scores were negative (0) at all time points. There were no significant increases in any acne condition or irritation at any time point during the study. At week 1 open lesions for Example 2 decreased significantly (p=0.036). At week 4 open lesions decreased for Example 2 and increased for Example 1 indicating a significant difference (p=0.018). At every time point Example 2 demonstrated a decrease in open lesions, closed lesions, and papules. The same conditions worsened at 5 of 9 time points for Example 1. When used as directed, neither product was an irritant.

Although the compositions of Example 1 and 2 vary slightly, the major difference is the presence of 4% tridecyl salicylate in Example 2. From the above study, it is evident that the tridecyl salicylate had a significant effect upon treating the conditions of acne while being nonirritating.

EX MPLE

A microemulsion formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table III.

TABLE II

INGREDIENT WEIGHT (%)

PPG-5-Ceteth-20 4.00

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.75

Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate 10.50

PEG-8 Caprylic/capric Glycerides 10.50

SD Alcohol 40 12.00

Isodecyl Neopentanoate 16.00

Glyceryl Trioctanoate 8.00

DC Silicone Fluid 344® 8.50

Propylparaben 0.15

Isostearic Acid 2.50

Tridecyl Salicylate 3.75

Hydroxycaprilie Acid 0.10

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.25

Phenoxyethanol 0.30

Deionized Water Q.S

EXAMPLE 5

A skin lotion (water in oil type) formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table IV.

TABLE IV

INGREDIENT WEIGHT (%)

Cetyl Dimethicone 2.50

DC Silicone Fluid 344® 4.00

DC Silicone Fluid 200®(20 CST) 1.25

Squalane 1.75

Octyl Octanoate 2.00

Zinc Myristate 1.25

Dimethicone Copolyol 2.50

Butylene Glycol 4.50

Glycerin 1.50

Sodium Hyaluronate 1.00

Tridecyl Salicylate 6.00

Salacos HS® 2.50

Isostearic Acid 2.50

Isononyl Isononanoate 3.75

Hydroxycaprilic Acid 0.10

Methylparaben 0.20

Propylparaben 0.10

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.55

Phenoxyethanol 0.20

Deionized Water Q.S EXAMPLE 6

A skin cream (oil in water type) formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table V.

_£ΔBI_£_Y

INGREDIENT WEIGHT (%)

Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.75

Cocoa Butter 1.25

Squalene 1.05

Isostearyl Isononanoate 2.25

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (50 CST) 1.25

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (100 CST) 0.50

Butylene Glycol 3.00

Glycerin 2.50

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.50

Tridecyl Salicylate 5.00

Glycereth-7 Hydroxystearate 1.50

Stearic Acid 3.50

Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol 2.55

Sodium PCA 2.10

Glyceryl Hydroxystearate 1.25

Tocopherol 0.35

Methylparaben 0.20

Propylparaben 0.10

Glydant® 0.30

Steareth-20 1.20

Disodium EDTA 0.05

Triethanolamine 1.50

Deionized Water Q.S EX MPLE 7

An anhydrous serum formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table VI.

TABLE VI

INGREDIENT WEIGHT (%)

Sepigel 305® 1.50

SD Alcohol 40 (200°) 20.00

DC Silicone Fluid 344® QS

Squalene 1.05

Octyl Isononanoate 2.25

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (10 CST) 5.25

Isononyl Isononanoate 30.00

Butylene Glycol 1.00

Tocopheryl Linoleate 0.50

Propylparaben 0.10

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10

Tridecyl Salicylate 2.75

Dimethiconol 2.50

EXAMPLE 8

A skin lotion (oil in water type) formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table VII.

TABLE VII

INGREDIENT WEIGHT ( )

Xanthan Gum 0.20

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.75

Shea Butter Glycerides 1.25

Squalene 2.25

Coco Caprylate/Caprate 3.25

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (50 CST) 0.75

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (50 CST) 0.50

Butylene Glycol 3.00

Glycerin 2.00

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.35

Tridecyl Salicylate 3.50

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate 2.15

Saccharide Isomerate 1.00

Sodium PCA 2.10

Sucrose Laurate 0.50

Ceteth-2 0.50

Methylparaben 0.20

Propylparaben 0.10

Germall II® 0.30

Steareth-20 1.20

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.05

Lactic Acid 0.10

Deionized Water Q.S EXAMPLE 9

A protective skin lotion with sunscreen formulation according to the present invention is outlined under Table VIII.

TABLE VIII

INGREDIENT WEIGHT (%)

Xanthan Gum 0.15

Seppigel 501® 1.50

Shea Butter 1.50

Squalene 2.00

Coco Caprylate/Caprate 2.25

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 3.55

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (20 CST) 0.50

DC Silicone Fluid 200® (350 CST) 1.00

Butylene Glycol 3.00

Glycerin 1.00

Sodium Hyaluronate 0.35

Tridecyl Salicylate 3.00

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate 1.25

Parsol MCX® 6.00

Benzophenone-3 3.00

Ceteth-2 0.50

Ceteareth-20 1.20

Methylparaben 0.30

Propylparaben 0.15

Glydant® 0.20

Aloe Vera Gel 2.00

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.30

Disodium EDTA 0.05

Deionized Water Q.S EXAMPLE 10

A clinical study was performed on the composition of Table IX to determine performance of tridecyl salicylate as an anti-aging active.

TABLE IX

COMPONENT WEIGHT %

Silicone 344 Fluid 15.0

Tridecyl Salicylate 5.0

Silicone 200/100 Fluid 5.0

Silicone 1401 Fluid 5.0

Actiglide Special® (Bio-hyaluronic Acid) 5.0

Squalane 4.0

Butylene Glycol 3.0

Sepigel 305®* 3.0

Tween 40® 2.5

Germall 115® 0.3

Methylparaben 0.2

Disodium EDTA 0.1

Deionized Water qs

* Isoparaffin dispersion of a polyacrylamide water solution.

Crenev Skin Measurement

The crepey skin protocol is a clinical visual assessment of forearm skin. This condition is associated with photoaged skin and reflects skin which takes on a sagging, rough, wrinkled appearance. The clinical test is 12 weeks in duration and evaluates 2 different test formulations in a paired manner (one on each forearm) using 15 women with moderate forearm crepiness. The study is conducted in a double blinded manner where neither the subject or clinical evaluator has knowledge of the test material being applied to the forearms. Only subjects with equivalent crepiness on both forearms are enrolled.

Assessment

If a formulation is effective it is anticipated that an improvement in forearm crepiness would be observed from baseline. To compare the relative performance of the 2 test formulations, the better formula would show greater/faster improvement in forearm crepiness as compared to the companion formulation. The following "directed-difference" scale is utilized to measure to what extent one formulation is superior to the companion formulation.

0 = no difference

1 = slightly better

2 = moderately better

3 = much better 4 = dramatically better

A directed-difference scale is used to quantitate any perceived difference between right and left treated forearms. If there is no perceivable difference between forearms a 0 is noted. In the event one forearm is better, the more improved forearm i }iven a score from 1 to 4 (smallest to greatest) where these values represent a difference level of improvement over the companion treated forearm. The forearm which is showing greater improvement will therefore attain a higher average absolute score.

One treatment is arbitrarily given a negative assignment while the other is given the positive assignment. In these experiments, the tridecyl salicylate formulations were given a negative assignment whereas the vehicle was given a positive assignment.

Results of the clinical are provided in Table X. They show that the tridecyl salicylate formulation is superior to the vehicle. This is evident as the directed difference scores are in the negative direction favouring the tridecyl salicylate formulation. The only difference between the vehicle and experimental formulations is tridecyl salicylate. All other ingredients, pH, etc. are the same.

TABLE X Clinical Anti-Aging Performance

% Tridecyl Salicylate vs. Vehicle

Week MEAN IMPROVEMENT OVER VEHICLE

0 0

4 + 0.12

8 + 1.0*

12 + 0.6

Significantly better than vehicle-treated group.

Claims

£LAIM2

1. A cosmetic method for treating a skin condition selected from the group consisting of dermatologic disorders, chronoaging and environmental abuse, the method comprising applying to the skin a safe and effective amount of a salicylate ester in a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier, the salicylate ester having the formula (I) :

wherein R is a C_n-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical.

2. A method according to claim 1 wherein the dermatologic disorders are selected from the group consisting of acne, dry skin, dandruff, keratosis, pruritus, inflammatory dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and tinea pedis.

3. A method according to claim 1 wherein the chronoaging is characterized by a condition selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, fine lines, leatheriness, yellowing, sagging, hyperpigmentation, age spots, thinning of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of collagen and general signs of aging.

4. A method according to claim 1 wherein environmental abuse includes conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, fine lines, leatheriness, yellowing, mottling and hyperpigmentation.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1-4 wherein R is a C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl group.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1-5 wherein the salicylate ester is tridecyl salicylate.

7. Use of a salicylate ester having the formula (I)

wherein R is a C_u-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, in a composition for topical application to the skin as an active for treating a skin condition selected from the group consisting of dermatologic disorders, chronoaging and environmental abuse.