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WO1997010877A1 - Dispositif a cames conçues pour des fissures de roche - Google Patents

Dispositif a cames conçues pour des fissures de roche Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1997010877A1
WO1997010877A1 PCT/GB1996/002359 GB9602359W WO9710877A1 WO 1997010877 A1 WO1997010877 A1 WO 1997010877A1 GB 9602359 W GB9602359 W GB 9602359W WO 9710877 A1 WO9710877 A1 WO 9710877A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cams
fissure
cam
support member
axle
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB1996/002359
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Hugh Irving Banner
Original Assignee
Hugh Irving Banner
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from GBGB9519438.7A external-priority patent/GB9519438D0/en
Priority claimed from GBGB9616996.6A external-priority patent/GB9616996D0/en
Application filed by Hugh Irving Banner filed Critical Hugh Irving Banner
Priority to GB9708968A priority Critical patent/GB2308817B/en
Publication of WO1997010877A1 publication Critical patent/WO1997010877A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • This invention relates to fissure cam devices used in rock climbing and known variously as Friends and Quadcams, as well as by other names.
  • Such devices comprise opposed cams mounted for rotation on an axle and resiliently biased into an open position.
  • the axle is carried on a support member along which moves a trigger. Pulling on the trigger closes the cams so they can be inserted into a rock fissure or cavity, and releasing the trigger, when the cams have been positioned, allows them to open under this bias into contact with the sides ofthe fissure or cavity.
  • Tension on the support member, to which the climber's rope is attached, tends to open the cams further, which applies them with greater force against the rock, reinforcing the grip of the device.
  • Such devices are capable of supporting the climber and even of breaking a fall.
  • axles for one pair of cams operate in slots in. and act as stops for, the other pair of cams, and this problem of over-rotation does not arise.
  • two-axle devices are heavy for their size, and equipment weight is at a premium in rock-climbing, and single-axis devices are to be preferred on that ground and for other reasons.
  • cams of each pair are machined from solid casting to form abutments preventing over-rotation, but this is expensive and is only available on smaller devices suitable for narrow fissures.
  • the axle should be at least as long as the distance between opposed cam faces at half-opening. In small devices, however, because ofthe arrangement ofthe control wires, the axle is necessarily far too long - over twice what it needs to be - and this militates against the use of the devices, in more restricted access cracks.
  • the invention comprises, in one aspect, a fissure cam device comprising a single axle arrangement of co-operating cams urgeable against an opening bias by a trigger movable along a support member attached to the axle into a closed position for insertion into a fissure the cams having fissure wall-engaging edges maintained in operative contact with the fissure walls by the opening bias such contact being reinforced by any tension on the support member, at least one cam of a co-operating pair of cams having a stud set into it and projecting into the path of the other cam about the axle to define a limit of relative rotation and prevent over-rotation.
  • Each of said co-operating pair of cams may have a stud projecting into the path of the stud on the other of said pair.
  • the trigger may be attached to the cams by wires projecting from the cams towards the support member.
  • the cam further from the support member may have a wire-attaching stud projecting axle-parallel towards the support member into the path of the cam member nearer the support member.
  • This wire-attaching stud may itself form an or the abutment against over-rotation.
  • the invention also comprises, in another aspect, a fissure cam device comprising a single axle arrangement of cooperating cams urgeable against an opening bias by a trigger movable along a support member attached to the axle into a closed position for insertion into a fissure, the cams having fissure wall-engaging edges maintained in operative contact with the fissure walls at least one cam of a cooperating pair of cams having a projection forming a control wire attachment to said cam whereby the wire thereto attached operates between the innermost cams.
  • Figure 1 is an edge-on elevation of a prior art device
  • Figure 2 is a face-on elevation of one embodiment of a device according to the invention .
  • FIG 3 is an edge-on elevation of a second embodiment of a device accordin ⁇ to the invention.
  • the drawings illustrate fissure cam devices comprising a single axle (1 1) arrangement of co-operating cams 12 urgeable against an opening bias by a trigger 13 movable along a support member 14 attached to the axle 1 1.
  • the opening bias is applied in the direction of Arrows A - see Figure 2, the face cam elevations ofthe devices of Figures 1 and 3 being similar, save for the details of features ofthe invention - by torsion springs 15 surrounding the axle 11 and hooked over pins 16.
  • the cams 12 have fissure wall-engaging edges 17 maintained in operative contact with the fissure walls 18 by the opening bias - see in this regard the silhouette in the lower part of Figure 2. Such contact is reinforced by any tension on the support member, and may result from a fall through the rock-climber's rope attached through an eye 14A ofthe support member 14.
  • each ofthe cams 12 has a stud 19 set into it and projecting into the path of the other stud 19 - and hence the cam - about the axle 1 1 to define a limit of relative rotation and prevent over-rotation.
  • the studs 19 are in contact and further rotation ofthe cams 12 about the axle 1 1 in the direction of Arrows A is not possible.
  • the trigger 13 is conventionally attached to the cams 12 by wires 21 which run from each cam 12, between the pairs of cams 12 on either side ofthe support member 14, and they have to bend around the edges ofthe cams 12, where they are likely to snag.
  • wires 21 which run from each cam 12, between the pairs of cams 12 on either side ofthe support member 14, and they have to bend around the edges ofthe cams 12, where they are likely to snag.
  • Figure 3 illustrates how by putting a stud 31 in each ofthe outermost cams 12 to carry its wire 21 to within the spacing between the two innermost cams 12, and bringing the wires of the innermost cam 12 out on their inner, rather than their outer sides, all four wires 21 can be kept out ofthe space between the right and left hand co ⁇ operating pairs of cams 12 with no risk of snagging on the edges of same.
  • the stud 31 is of sufficiently sturdy design, it can serve as well as the or a stud that keeps the device from over-rotating - see the broken line position at 31A on Figure 2 where the studs 31 abut the edges of the cams 12 in the opened-out position. There is, of course, with this arrangement, no need also to have the studs 19.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Pivots And Pivotal Connections (AREA)

Abstract

Cette invention concerne un dispositif à cames à insérer dans des fissures qui comporte un agencement à axe unique de cames coopérantes que l'on peut refermer à l'encontre d'une force de maintien en position ouverte au moyen d'un mécanisme déclencheur qui peut se déplacer le long d'un élément de support fixé à l'axe pour permettre leur insertion à l'intérieur de la fissure, les cames comportant des bords conçus pour venir en contact avec les parois de la fissure et maintenus en contact actif avec les parois de la fissure par la force d'ouverture, ledit contact étant renforcé par toute tension appliquée à l'élément de support. Un goujon fileté, qui est placé à l'intérieur de l'une, au moins, des cames constituant la paire de cames coopérantes et qui fait saillie à travers la trajectoire de l'autre came autour de l'axe, établit la limite de rotation relative et permet d'éviter toute rotation excessive.
PCT/GB1996/002359 1995-09-22 1996-09-23 Dispositif a cames conçues pour des fissures de roche WO1997010877A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9708968A GB2308817B (en) 1995-09-22 1996-09-23 Rock fissure cam device

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GBGB9519438.7A GB9519438D0 (en) 1995-09-22 1995-09-22 Improved climbing aid
GB9519438.7 1995-09-22
GBGB9616996.6A GB9616996D0 (en) 1996-08-13 1996-08-13 Improved climbing aid
GB9616996.6 1996-08-13

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1997010877A1 true WO1997010877A1 (fr) 1997-03-27

Family

ID=26307809

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB1996/002359 WO1997010877A1 (fr) 1995-09-22 1996-09-23 Dispositif a cames conçues pour des fissures de roche

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO1997010877A1 (fr)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6375139B1 (en) 2000-10-20 2002-04-23 Seth Murray Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities
GB2380949A (en) * 2001-07-26 2003-04-23 Wild Country Ltd Camming device
US6736359B2 (en) 2001-07-05 2004-05-18 Seth Murray Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities
ES2212868A1 (es) * 2001-06-28 2004-08-01 Mikel Apezetxea Goñi Dispositivo de levas para escalada.
US20220258010A1 (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-08-18 Matteo VIANINI Anchoring and support climbing device
EP4223374A1 (fr) * 2022-02-07 2023-08-09 Excalibur (Wales) Ltd Dispositif de protection destiné à être utilisé dans l'escalade

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1588317A (en) * 1977-06-04 1981-04-23 Jardine R D Climbing aids
US4565342A (en) * 1984-07-12 1986-01-21 Grow Robert D Anchoring device for rock climbing
EP0214603A1 (fr) * 1985-09-04 1987-03-18 Lowe Alpine Systems Inc Dispositif d'escalade pour alpinistes
GB2193902A (en) * 1986-08-13 1988-02-24 Hugh Irving Banner Climbing aids
AT398167B (de) * 1989-01-18 1994-10-25 Prohaska Heinz Kletter-klemmvorrichtung

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1588317A (en) * 1977-06-04 1981-04-23 Jardine R D Climbing aids
US4565342A (en) * 1984-07-12 1986-01-21 Grow Robert D Anchoring device for rock climbing
EP0214603A1 (fr) * 1985-09-04 1987-03-18 Lowe Alpine Systems Inc Dispositif d'escalade pour alpinistes
GB2193902A (en) * 1986-08-13 1988-02-24 Hugh Irving Banner Climbing aids
AT398167B (de) * 1989-01-18 1994-10-25 Prohaska Heinz Kletter-klemmvorrichtung

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6375139B1 (en) 2000-10-20 2002-04-23 Seth Murray Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities
WO2002034091A1 (fr) * 2000-10-20 2002-05-02 Seth Murray Dispositif d'ancrage utilisable dans des crevasses de rocher pendant des activites d'escalade
ES2212868A1 (es) * 2001-06-28 2004-08-01 Mikel Apezetxea Goñi Dispositivo de levas para escalada.
US6736359B2 (en) 2001-07-05 2004-05-18 Seth Murray Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities
GB2380949A (en) * 2001-07-26 2003-04-23 Wild Country Ltd Camming device
GB2380949B (en) * 2001-07-26 2006-01-18 Wild Country Ltd Improvements in and relating to camming devices
US20220258010A1 (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-08-18 Matteo VIANINI Anchoring and support climbing device
EP4223374A1 (fr) * 2022-02-07 2023-08-09 Excalibur (Wales) Ltd Dispositif de protection destiné à être utilisé dans l'escalade

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