WO1997002006A1

WO1997002006A1 - Preparation for treating keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: WO1997002006A1
Application number: PCT/EP1996/002732
Authority: WO
Inventors: Manuela Ehlert; Dieter Goddinger; Detlef Hollenberg
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 1995-07-03
Filing date: 1996-06-24
Publication date: 1997-01-23
Also published as: DE19523596A1

Abstract

Preparations used for treating keratin fibres such as human hair and containing a combination of active substances comprising an anionic homopolymer A and an anionic copolymer B with at least one non-ionogenic co-monomer, have fixing properties. They can be used in the formulation of hair conditioners with pronounced fixing properties and containing none of the standard fixing agents.

Description

'Preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers'

The invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations which contain a special setting combination of active ingredients.

The human hair is treated in various ways with hair cosmetic preparations. This includes, for example, cleaning the hair with shampoos and shower preparations and bleaching, dyeing and shaping hair with waving agents, tinting agents and styling preparations. As a result of almost all hair treatments, the hair structure can be adversely affected. These impairments are evident, for example, in poor wet and dry combability, an increased electrostatic charge, increased brittleness or insufficient strength of the hair, and in more serious cases in split, i.e. split hair. In many cases, this also worsens the external appearance of the hairstyle.

A known way of alleviating abuses is to subject the hair to post-treatment with appropriate active ingredients, mostly cationic surfactants, which may be combined with other substances. Inadequate strength of the hair can be counteracted, for example, with special hair setting agents or hair sprays.

However, the hair cosmetician tries to avoid such additional treatment steps and instead to provide products which carry out both the actual hair treatment and the aftertreatment in one application step. Furthermore, the cosmetic chemist tries to find new effects of known cosmetic components, for example synergistic effects of several known components, and to make them usable for use.

It has now surprisingly been found that preparations with a combination of certain anionic polymers, which themselves are not have hair-setting or only slightly setting properties, achieve a strong setting effect on the hair.

The invention thus relates to preparations for treating ceramic fibers, in particular human hair, which comprise a combination of active substances

- An anionic homopolymer A and

- An anionic copolymer B with at least one nonionic co-monomer

contain.

The anionic homopolymers are preferably composed of an unsaturated C3-C6 carboxylic acid. Preferred C3-C6 carboxylic acids are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. Methacrylic acid and especially acrylic acid are very particularly preferred monomers for the anionic homopolymers.

The homopolymers A can be used both in non-crosslinked form and in crosslinked form. In this context, crosslinked polymers are understood to mean the reaction products of the polymeric polycarboxylic acids with polyhydric alcohols, in which some of the carboxyl groups react with these alcohols to form ester bonds. In the context of the present invention, it may be preferred to use the homopolymers A in crosslinked form.

Furthermore, the anionic homopolymers, in crosslinked and uncrosslinked form, can be used both in the free acid form and in completely or partially neutralized form. For neutralization, customary bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, in particular sodium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanoiamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol and 2-aminobutanol can be used. Sodium hydroxide, ammonia, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred neutralizing agents. The neutralization can be carried out according to the invention both with a base and with a base mixture. When choosing a base mixture, it may be preferred to use a mixture of ammonia and the above-mentioned alkanolamines.

Compounds of this type are, for example, under the names Carbopol ^R 934, Carbopol ^R 934P, Carbopol ^R 940 (Carbopol ETD 2001), Carbopol 941 (CarbopolR ETD 2050), Carboρol ^R 950, Carbopol ^R 980, Carbopol ^R 981, Carbopol ^R ETD 2020, Hostacerin ^R PN 73 and 3V Sigma PNC ^R 400 available.

The homopolymers A are preferably present in the preparations according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Quantities of 0.4 - 5% by weight have proven to be particularly effective.

Another mandatory component of the preparations according to the invention is an anionic copolymer B. These copolymers are built up from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.

The anionic monomer of the copolymers preferably contains a -C00 "or -Sθ3 ~ group as the anionic group.

Preferred anionic monomers with a -C00 "group are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamido (Cl-C4) alkylcarboxylic acids, maleic acid and maleic acid mono (Cl-C4) alkyl esters and their physiologically compatible salts. Among the physiologically compatible salts the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts, in particular sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, are preferred.

Preferred anionic monomers with a -Sθ3 ~ group are the acrylamido- (Cl-4) -alkylsulfonic acids and their physiologically tolerable salts. Among the physiologically compatible salts, the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, aluminum salts, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts, in particular the sodium, potassium and magnesium salts and ammonium salts, are preferred. Acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid and its salts are particularly preferred anionic monomers for the anionic copolymers B.

Furthermore, the anionic copolymer B contains at least one nonionic co-monomer. Preferred nonionic comonomers are acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylic acid (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ester, vinyl alcohol and vinyl alcohol (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether. Acrylamide is a particularly preferred non-ionic co-monomer.

The copolymers B used according to the invention preferably contain at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, of nonionic monomers.

Common commercial products that can be used as copolymer B according to the invention are, for example

Copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid or their esters with Cιo-3θ "alkyl acrylates, such as those sold under the name Pemulen ^R.

Polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers. Compounds of this type are commercially available under the brand names Resyn ^R (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset ^R (BASF) and Gafset ^R (GAF); the products Luviset ^R CA-66 and Luviset ^R CAP can be particularly preferred.

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available, for example, under the trademark Luviflex ^R (BASF). A preferred polymer is the vinyl pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers available under the name Luviflex ^R VBM-35 (BASF).

Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ^R strong (BASF), and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / t-butyl acrylate terpolymer, which are sold under the name Luvimer ^R 100P (BASF) become. Copolymers B, which consist of, have proven particularly suitable according to the invention

40-95 mol% of acrylamide,

- 5 - 60 mol% of acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of this acid and

- 0 - 55 mol% of other anionic and / or nonionic

Monomers.

Among these polymers, those which are particularly preferred are

80-95 mol% of acrylamide,

- 5 - 20 mol% of acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically acceptable salt of this acid and

- 0 - 15 mol% of other anionic and / or nonionic

Monomers.

Copolymers which consist only of the two monomers acrylamide and acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a physiologically tolerable salt of this acid have proven to be particularly suitable in many cases.

Such a polymer in the form of the sodium salt is sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel ^R 305 as a compound with iso-paraffin and an ethoxylated fatty alcohol.

The copolymers B are preferably present in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-2% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.3-2% by weight, based on the overall preparation

In a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention is a hair treatment agent. The other components of the preparation according to the invention then depend on the type of hair treatment composition. The active ingredient combination according to the invention can be an essential active principle of the special hair treatment agent; the combination of active ingredients can also in medium are incorporated, which primarily serve another purpose, such as cleaning or tinting the hair.

In principle, however, the formulations according to the invention include all known types of hair treatment compositions, such as Hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair waves, permanent waving agents and hair colorants. Hair treatments and hair conditioning agents are preferred forms of the agents according to the invention, in particular those agents which are applied to the hair in the morning in order to give the hair a certain firming for the rest of the day.

Depending on the type of hair treatment composition, the preparations according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such compositions. In many cases, the preparations contain at least one surfactant, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven advantageous to select the surfactants from the nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group ,

Cl2 "* C22 fatty acid mono- ^and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

Addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides.

The alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids have become preferred nonionic surfactants 4 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

In a further embodiment, it may be preferred to select alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R0- (Z) _x as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. L-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are produced from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

consists essentially of Cβ and C _j o -alkyl groups, essentially of C12 and Cj / j-alkyl groups, essentially of CQ to C _j ß-alkyl groups or essentially of C12 to C _j δ-alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allos, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are very particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

linear and branched fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) _x -CH2-C00H, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or is 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 C atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 C atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH2 ~ CH2θ) _x -OSθ3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-3725030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-3723354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COθ (~) - or -Sθ3 (~) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 1-6 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N- Alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-l8 ^_Ac yϊ ^sarcosιn *

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Preferred are ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethy1ammonium chloride. The quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.

Also suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^R -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaterium-80).

Alkylamidoamines, in particular fatty acid amidoamines such as stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, which is available under the name Tego Amid ^R S 18, are characterized not only by a good conditioning action, but also by their good biodegradability.

Quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as the products Dehyquart ^R AU-46, Dehyquart ^R F-30 and Dehyquart ^R F-75, as well as the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyl sold under the trademark Stepantex ^R are also very readily biodegradable dialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates. An example of a quaternary sugar derivative that can be used as a cationic surfactant is the commercial product Glucquat ^R 100, according to the CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride".

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. A "normal" homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained by converting fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. By contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

If the preparations according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants, they preferably contain them in amounts of 0.01-1.5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains a water-insoluble oil. Water-insoluble oils are understood to mean those organic liquids which are less than 1% by weight soluble in water at 20 ° C.

Oils which can be used according to the invention are, for example, paraffin oils based on saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, squalane, squalene, cholesterol fatty acid esters, Lanolin and the wool wax alcohols melting below 60 ° C and their lower (1-10 E0) ethoxylates. Paraffin oils based on linear and in particular methyl-branched hydrocarbons have proven to be particularly suitable.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain the water-insoluble oils in amounts of 0.01-8% by weight, based on the overall preparation. In particular in the case of preparations which remain on the keratin fiber, it may be preferable not to add the water-insoluble oil in amounts above 4% by weight, based on the overall preparation.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention additionally contain a hair-conditioning active ingredient. Preferred hair conditioning agents can be the cationic surfactants already listed above.

Another preferred group of hair conditioning agents are siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to be those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Another group of hair-conditioning active ingredients are cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention contain cationic groups within the polymer structure. These groups can be part of the polymer chain; however, they can also be located in side chains which are connected to a main chain via intermediate links. Common cationic groups contain quaternary nitrogen or phosphorus atoms. Groups with quaternary nitrogen atoms are preferred. The quaternary nitrogen atoms can be 4 different or partly the same Bear substituents, as well as be part of a ring system. Preferred cationic groups are ammonium and imidazolinium groups.

If the ionic groups are in the side chains, the polymers are composed of compounds which, in addition to at least one cationic group, contain at least one polymerizable group and are free of anionic groups.

The polymerizable group is preferably a vinyl group. However, it is also possible to use cationic polymers in which the main polymer chain is composed, for example, of glycosides or has a protein character.

According to the invention, preference can likewise be given to cationic copolymers which, in addition to the cationic monomers, also contain at least one nonionic monomer. Suitable nonionic monomers are, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, methacrylamide, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate. Vinyl pyrrolidone is a particularly preferred nonionic monomer.

A number of cationic polymers suitable for hair care are known to the person skilled in the art and are available as commercial products.

Examples of such polymers are:

quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ^R and Polymer JR ^R. The compounds Celquat H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^R 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.

quaternized guar derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Cosmedia Guar ^R and Jaguar ^R. Preferred guar derivatives are, for example, Cosmedia Guar ^R C-261 and Jaguar ^R C 13-S.

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ^R 734, Gafquat ^R 755 and Gafquat ^R HS100.

Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with vinyl imidazolium methochloride, such as those offered under the name Luviquat ^R.

Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products obtainable under the names Merquat ^R 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^R 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers.

Cationically derivatized silicone oils, such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone) will), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^R -Quat 3270 and 7232 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane, quaterium-80).

Chitosan and its derivatives

Cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates, which can be obtained, for example, by reacting alkaline, acidic or enzymatically hydrolyzed proteins with glycidyltrialkylammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts, are also cationic polymers for the purposes of this invention. The proteins which serve as starting materials for the protein hydrolyzates can be of animal or vegetable origin. Typical starting materials are keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, milk protein, wheat protein, silk protein and almond protein. The hydrolysis produces mixtures of substances with molar masses in the range from approximately 100 to approximately 50,000 Daltons. Usual average molecular weights are in the range from about 500 to about 5000 daltons. The cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously contain one or two long alkyl chains with 8 to 22 C atoms and correspondingly two or a short alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred.

Preferred protein derivatives are substances of the formula (II)

(II)

in which R ^{4 stands} for the side chains of the amino acids of the protein, R ¹ and R2 independently of one another for alkyl chains with 1 to 4 C atoms and R3 for an alkyl chain with 8 to 22 C atoms.

A product available on the market is Lamequat ^R L (chemical factory Grünau). It has the structure

in which R stands for the side chains of the amino acids of the collagen. A name analogous to CTFA is lauryldimonium hydroxypropylamino hydrolyzed collagen.

Polymeric condensation resins of polyols and polyamines, such as, for example, polyglycol-polyamine condensation resins, which are known under the CTFA name PEG-15 Cocopolyamine. The product Polyquart ^R H 81 (Henkel) is commercially available, for example. Another group that can be used as hair-conditioning active ingredients in preparations according to the invention are nonionic surfactants.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as those sold under the name Luviskol ^R (BASF). Polyvinylpyrrolidones are preferred nonionic polymers in the context of the invention.

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^R (BASF). Luviskol ^R VA 64 and Luviskol ^R VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, as are sold, for example, under the trademark Culminal ^R and Benecel ^R (AQUALON).

shellac

Finally, phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, can also be used as hair-conditioning active ingredients.

The hair-conditioning active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.

Further components of the agents according to the invention can be, for example:

Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,

Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum, protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, dyes,

Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, other substances for adjusting the pH, active ingredients such as panthenol, nonionic and cationic derivatives of panthenol such as the compound sold under the name Panthequat ^R , allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins Sunscreen

Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and fatty alcohols, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, EDETA, NTA and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, and antioxidants, direct dyes, so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors,

Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate.

The agents which can be used according to the invention can be formulated as a solution, lotion, emulsion, microemulsion, cream or gel. The formulation as a solution, emulsion or microemulsion with a water content of 50 to 90% by weight, based on the total agent, can be preferred. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents can be packaged in the form of foam aerosols. Both the formulation with a liquefied gas as a blowing agent and in the form of so-called pump sprays are possible, in which the pressure required for spraying is built up by mechanical pumping. Nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether are preferred blowing agents. Although chlorofluorocarbons and chlorinated hydrocarbons are excellent propellants with regard to the aerosol properties achieved, their use as propellants in the agents according to the invention is less preferred due to the known ozone problem.

The invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The invention also relates to a method for treating hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair and remains there.

Finally, the invention also relates to a method for treating hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair and rinsed out again after an exposure time (0.5 to 40 minutes).

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

1. Determination of curl retention (curl retention test)

The procedure for determining the curl retention capacity (the so-called curl retention value) was as follows:

A 15 cm long strand of hair (Alkinco 6634, strand weight: 2 g) was treated with 0.3 g of the preparation to be examined and wound on a glass tube with an outer diameter of 2.0 cm, fixed and dried. A measure of the stability of the curl obtained after pulling out the glass tube is the curl retention value, which is defined as [(ll _x ) / (ll ₀ )] * 100%, where 1 is the length of the strand of hair (15 cm) 1 _{0 is} the length of the lock of hair immediately after drying and l _x the length of the lock of hair after storage in a drying cabinet for an hour at constant conditions (25 ° C., 60% relative atmospheric humidity).

The values found, which each represent the mean values from several measurements, are listed in Table I. All amounts in Table I are% by weight.

Table I:

El VI V2 V3

Composition:

- 3V Sigma PNC-400 ¹ 0.5 - 1.0 -

- Sepigel ^R 305 ² 0.5 1.0 - -

- water ad 100 ^■

Curl retention values [%]:

- after 1 h 92 95 90 92

- after 6 h 75 68 63 66

- after 8 h 73 65 55 63

- after 24 h 62 57 50 53

¹ polyacrylic acid sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) (3V SIGMA) ² compound made from a copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid sodium salt, isoparaffin and dodecyl alcohol + 7 EO (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C13-14-isoparaffin (and) Lauret-7) ( SEPPIC).

2. Examples of use

All quantities are in% by weight.

2.1 Spa pack (remaining on the hair)

Cetiol ^R 0E3 0.6

Eumulgin ^R 05 ⁴ 0.4

D-panthenol 0.6

Luviquat ^R FC-370 ⁵ 0.2

Ethanol 10.0 glucose 0.1

Seρigel ^R 305 0.6

Carbopol ^R ETD 2001 ⁶ 0.6

Triethanolamine q.s. Water ad 100

³ dioctyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (HENKEL)

⁴ oleyl alcohol + 5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: 01eth-5) (HENKEL)

5 vinylimidazolium methochloride-vinylpyrrolidone (30:70) copolymer (40% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquatemium-16) (BASF)

⁶ cross-linked polyaeric acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (GOODRICH)

2.2. shampoo

Texapon ^R N 70 ⁷ 21.0

Plantaren ^R- 1200 ⁸ 8.0

Genamin ^R DSAC ⁹ 1.2

Cutina ^ GMS ¹ ^ 0.6 3V Sigma PNC ^R 400 0, ₁ 6 Sepigel 305 ^R 1, -0 sodium chloride 0 2 Water ad 100

7 sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 72% active substance) (HENKEL)

⁸ C12-C16-alkyl glucoside with a degree of oligomerization of 1.4 (approx. 50% active substance; INCI name: Lauryl polyglycoside) (HENKEL)

9 dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (HOECHST) 10 ethylene glycol monostearate (approx. 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester; INCI name: glycol stearate) (HENKEL)

2.3 Spa pack (rinsable)

Stenol ^R 1618 ⁿ 3.0

Eumulgin ^R B 1 * 2 0.5

Eumulgin ^R B 2 ¹³ 0.5

Cutina ^R CP ¹⁴ 1.0

Eutanol ^R G ¹⁵ 1.5

Dow Coming ^R 929 Emulsion ¹⁶ 2.9

Celquat ^R L200 ¹⁷ 2.0

Sepigel ^R 305 0.4

Carbopol ^R ETD 2050 ¹⁸ 0.7

Sodium hydroxide solution (25%) q.s.

Water ad 100

¹¹ C16 / C18 fatty alcohol (HENKEL)

¹² cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 12 mol E0 (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (HENKEL)

¹³ cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 20 mol E0

(INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)

14

Esters of saturated, long-chain fatty alcohols and fatty acids, primarily palmitic acid cetylester (INCI name: Cetyl Palmitate) (HENKEL) Condensation product from saturated liquid fatty alcohols, mainly decyl alcohol, produced according to the Guerbet reaction (INCI name: octyldodecanol) (HENKEL) amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane (35% active substance) (DOW CORNING) hydroxyethyl cellulose diallyldimethylammonium chloride copoloyl Active substance; INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT-NATIONAL) modified polyaerylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (GOODRICH)

Claims

claims

1. Preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that it consists of an active ingredient combination

- An anionic homopolymer A and

- An anionic copolymer B with at least one nonionic co-monomer

contains.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic homopolymer A is a polymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid which, if desired, is crosslinked with a polyol.

3. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic homopolymer A is completely or partially neutralized with a base.

4. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the homopolymer A in an amount of 0.1 - 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.4 - 5 wt .-%, based on the total preparation is.

5. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the anionic copolymer B contains an anionic monomer with a -C00-- or -Sθ3 ~ group.

6. Preparation according to claim 5, characterized in that the anionic monomer is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamido (Cl-C4) alkyl carboxylic acids, acrylic amido (Cl-4 ) -alkylsulfonic acids, maleic acid, maleic acid mono (Cl-C4) - alkyl esters and their physiologically tolerable salts.

7. Preparation according to claim 6, characterized in that anionic monomers is an acrylamido (Cl-4) alkyl sulfonic acid or a salt of this acid.

8. Preparation according to claim 7, characterized in that anionic monomers is acrylamido-2-methyl-propyl-sulfonic acid or a salt of this acid.

9. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the anionic copolymer B contains a non-ionic co-monomer which is selected from the group consisting of acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylic acid (Cl- C4) alkyl esters, vinyl alcohol and vinyl alcohol (Cl-C4) alkyl ethers is formed.

10. Preparation according to claim 9, characterized in that the non-ionic co-monomer is acrylamide.

11. Preparation according to claim 10, characterized in that the anionic copolymer B consists of

40-95 mol% of acrylamide,

- 0 - 55 mol% of other anionic and / or nonionic

Monomers.

12. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the copolymer B in an amount of 0.1 - 2 wt .-%, in particular 0.3 - 2 wt .-%, based on the total preparation is.

13. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it additionally contains a nonionic surfactant.

14. Preparation according to claim 13, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated glycerol mono-, di- and triglycerides.

15. Preparation according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is contained in amounts of 0.01 - 1.5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation.

16. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it contains 0.01 - 8 wt .-% of a water-insoluble oil, based on the entire preparation.

17. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it contains 0.1 - 5 wt .-% of a hair-conditioning active ingredient, based on the entire preparation.

18. A method of treating hair, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 17 is applied to the hair and remains on it.