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WO1997002002A2 - Use of polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates - Google Patents

Use of polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1997002002A2
WO1997002002A2 PCT/EP1996/002750 EP9602750W WO9702002A2 WO 1997002002 A2 WO1997002002 A2 WO 1997002002A2 EP 9602750 W EP9602750 W EP 9602750W WO 9702002 A2 WO9702002 A2 WO 9702002A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
polyglycerol
poly
acid
hydroxystearates
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP1996/002750
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
WO1997002002A3 (en
Inventor
Annette Schwarz
Achim Ansmann
Rolf Kawa
Mark Leonard
Original Assignee
Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Publication of WO1997002002A2 publication Critical patent/WO1997002002A2/en
Publication of WO1997002002A3 publication Critical patent/WO1997002002A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • Polyglycerol polyricinoleates have long been known as W / O emulsifiers and can be used to formulate low-viscosity W / O emulsions [cf. EP-AI 0 559 013 (Th. Goldschmidt), EP-AI 0 440 203 (Lotte Co.) and WO 85/04346 (Meiji Milk Prods.). It turns out, however, that polyglycerol polyrinoleates on the market do not form emulsions with all oils conventionally used in cosmetics, but only with those of a certain polarity range; moreover, these emulsions have only a limited shelf life. A major disadvantage is that the commercially available products are not able to adequately stabilize emulsions with strongly polar oils such as vegetable oils. In view of the particular ecotoxicological compatibility of such emulsions, however, this is precisely what is desired in the market.
  • polyglycerol polyricinoleates are not suitable for producing O / W emulsions because of their high lipophilicity; this requires significantly more hydrophilic, usually surfactant, emulsifiers.
  • the latter again have the disadvantage that they generally contain ethylene oxide groups, which is not always desirable from the market point of view.
  • the stability of the emulsions obtainable using known hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers is in many cases unsatisfactory.
  • the complex object of the invention was therefore to provide O / W emulsifiers which on the one hand are free of ethylene oxide and on the other hand allow the production of finely divided and at the same time storage-stable emulsions.
  • the invention relates to the use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • condensation products of polyols preferably technical polyglycerol
  • poly-12-hydroxystearic acid which are known to be suitable as W / O emulsifiers
  • condensation products based on the 12-hydroxystearic acid are liquid, although the acid used has a melting point in the range of 75 ° C.
  • the invention relates to the use of polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates, which is obtained by poly-12-hydroxy stearic acid having a degree of self-condensation in the range from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, with a polyglycerol mixture of the composition ( GC method)
  • polyols is understood to mean substances which have at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:
  • Allkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;
  • Methyl compounds such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol,
  • reaction products based on polyglycerol are of particular importance among the O / W emulsifiers to be used according to the invention because of their excellent performance properties. It has proven particularly advantageous to use selected polyglycerols which have the following homolog distribution (the preferred ranges are given in brackets):
  • the polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates can be prepared in a manner known per se.
  • the polyglycerol and then the polyhydroxystearic acid are preferably first produced and finally both are esterified.
  • the preparation of a polyglycerol of the abovementioned composition can be carried out by self-condensation of glycerol in the presence of suitable catalysts such as, for example, potassium carbonate, silicates according to DE-Al 40 29 323 (Henkel) or borates according to DE-Al 41 17 033 (Henkel) at temperatures in the range of 200 to 260 ° C are carried out.
  • the poly-12-hydroxystearic acid is prepared, for example, by alkaline-catalyzed polycondensation of 12-hydroxystearic acid, which is obtained by curing ricinic acid or technical castor oil fatty acid. Linear esterification products having 2 to 10 and in particular 2 to 8 fatty acid units are preferably formed.
  • the following distribution (GPC method) is typically achieved:
  • mixtures of 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid or technical castor oil fatty acid which consists of approximately 90% by weight of ricinoleic acid, are used in a weight ratio of 99: 1 to 1:99 and preferably 75:25 to 10:90 .
  • polystyrene resin for example the polyglycerol with the poly-12-hydroxystearic acid or the mixtures with polyricinoleic acid
  • a complex mixture of homologous polyester is formed.
  • the proportions of mono-, di-, tri- and oligoesters in the polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates to be used according to the invention and preferably polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates depend on the conditions of use of the starting compounds.
  • a polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate with particularly advantageous application properties is used, which is obtained by subjecting about 1000 kg of 12-hydroxystearic acid to self-condensation until a product with an acid number in the range from 50 to 55 results and this is then further esterified with about 150 kg of polyglycerol of the composition indicated above until the acid number has decreased to a value less than 2.
  • Condensation products based on polyglycerol and poly-12-hydroxystearic acid or poly-12-hydroxystearic acid / polyricinoleic acid can be characterized by their iodine number.
  • Typical examples are polyesters with an iodine number ⁇ 10 (based on 100% 12-hydroxystearic acid) or 65 to 80 (based on 90% 12-hydroxystearic acid, 10% ricinoleic acid).
  • the O / W emulsions or cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations obtainable using the polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates can be used as further components, inter alia. Contain oil oils, co-emulsifiers, fats and waxes, stabilizers, thickeners, biogenic agents, film formers, fragrances, dyes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, UV filters, pigments, electrolytes (e.g. magnesium sulfate) and pH regulators.
  • suitable co-emulsifiers are hardened and ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or partial glycerides, alkyl oligoglycosides, polyglycerol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol polyricinoleates.
  • Substances such as polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.
  • Biogenic active substances are understood to mean, for example, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid.
  • Suitable pearlescent agents are, for example, glycol distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid mono-glycol esters.
  • the dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, such as are listed, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the overall mixture.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the O / W emulsions can be prepared in a manner known per se by the cold / cold, hot / hot, hot / cold or PIT method.
  • a facial cleansing cream To prepare a facial cleansing cream, the constituents I were melted at 80 ° C. and stirred until homogeneous. The components of phase II were also heated to 80 ° C., added slowly to phase I with stirring and emulsified at 80 ° C. for 5 minutes. The emulsion was cooled with stirring and carefully homogenized at about 50 ° C. After a temperature of 30 ° C. had been reached, the stirring was stopped and the emulsion was vented after cooling to room temperature. Using polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate as an O / W emulsifier, a viscous cream was obtained which was still stable even after 12 weeks of storage. When using a known hydrophilic O / W emulsifier from the prior art, the mixture remained two-phase. The composition of the mixtures can be found in Table 1 (quantitative data as% by weight).
  • Emulgade® PL 1618 Hexadecyl Polyglucose and Hexadecyl Alcohol
  • Plantaren® 1200 decyl polyglucose
  • Myritol® 312 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride
  • Dehymuls® PGPH polyglyceryl poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Example 2 The procedure for producing a care cream was as described in Example 1.
  • the cream produced using the polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate was still stable even after storage for more than 12 weeks; without the O / W emulsifier, the cream separated into an oily and an aqueous phase within 8 weeks.
  • the composition of the mixtures can be found in Table 2 (quantitative data as% by weight).

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Emulsifying, Dispersing, Foam-Producing Or Wetting Agents (AREA)
  • Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)

Abstract

The invention proposes the use of polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates as oil-in-water emulsifiers in the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations. This yields emulsions with improved stability compared with the use of known hydrophilic emulsifiers.

Description

Verwendung von PolyolpoIy-12-hydroxystearaten Use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates

Gebiet der ErfindungField of the Invention

Die Erfindung betrifft die Verwendung von Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearaten als O/W- Emulgatoren für die Herstellung von kosmetischen und/oder pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen.The invention relates to the use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.

Stand der TechnikState of the art

Polyglycerinpolyricinoleate sind seit langem als W/O-Emulgatoren bekannt und können zur Formulierung von niedrigviskosen W/O-Emulsionen eingesetzt werden [vgl. EP-AI 0 559 013 (Th. Goldschmidt), EP-AI 0 440 203 (Lotte Co.) und WO 85/04346 (Meiji Milk Prods.). Es zeigt sich jedoch, daß Polyglycerinpolyrinoleate des Marktes nicht mit allen in der Kosmetik üblicherweise eingesetzten Öle Emulsionen bilden, sondern nur mit solchen eines bestimmten Polaritätsbereiches; zudem sind diese Emulsionen nur eingeschränkt lagerstabil. Ein we¬ sentlicher Nachteil besteht vor allem darin, daß die handelsüblichen Produkte nicht in der Lage sind, Emulsionen mit stark polaren Ölen wie beispielsweise Pflanzenölen ausreichend zu stabilisieren. Im Hinblick auf die besondere ökotoxikologische Verträglichkeit derartiger Emul¬ sionen wird jedoch gerade dies im Markt gewünscht.Polyglycerol polyricinoleates have long been known as W / O emulsifiers and can be used to formulate low-viscosity W / O emulsions [cf. EP-AI 0 559 013 (Th. Goldschmidt), EP-AI 0 440 203 (Lotte Co.) and WO 85/04346 (Meiji Milk Prods.). It turns out, however, that polyglycerol polyrinoleates on the market do not form emulsions with all oils conventionally used in cosmetics, but only with those of a certain polarity range; moreover, these emulsions have only a limited shelf life. A major disadvantage is that the commercially available products are not able to adequately stabilize emulsions with strongly polar oils such as vegetable oils. In view of the particular ecotoxicological compatibility of such emulsions, however, this is precisely what is desired in the market.

Weiterhin sind Polyglycerinpolyricinoleate wegen ihrer hohen Lipophilie nicht zur Herstellung von O/W-Emulsionen geeignet; hierfür werden deutlich hydrophilere, in der Regel tensidische Emulgatoren benötigt. Letztgenannte haben aber wiederum den Nachteil, daß sie in der Regel Ethylenoxidgruppen beinhalten, was aus Sicht des Marktes nicht immer erwünscht ist. Ferner ist die Stabilität der unter Verwendung bekannter hydrophiler O/W-Emulgatoren erhältlichen Emulsionen in vielen Fällen nicht zufriedenstellend. Die komplexe Aufgabe der Erfindung hat somit darin bestanden, O/W-Emulgatoren zur Verfügung zu stellen, die einerseits frei von Ethylenoxidanteilen sind und zum anderen die Her¬ stellung feinteiliger und gleichzeitig lagerstabiler Emulsionen erlauben.Furthermore, polyglycerol polyricinoleates are not suitable for producing O / W emulsions because of their high lipophilicity; this requires significantly more hydrophilic, usually surfactant, emulsifiers. However, the latter again have the disadvantage that they generally contain ethylene oxide groups, which is not always desirable from the market point of view. Furthermore, the stability of the emulsions obtainable using known hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers is in many cases unsatisfactory. The complex object of the invention was therefore to provide O / W emulsifiers which on the one hand are free of ethylene oxide and on the other hand allow the production of finely divided and at the same time storage-stable emulsions.

Beschreibung der ErfindungDescription of the invention

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist die Verwendung von Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearaten als O/W-Emulgatoren zur Herstellung von kosmetischen und/oder pharmazeutischen Zuberei¬ tungen.The invention relates to the use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.

Überraschenderweise wurde gefunden, daß Kondensationsprodukte von Polyolen, vorzugsweise technischem Polyglycerin, mit Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure, von denen bekannt ist, daß sie sich als W/O-Emulgatoren eignen, gleichzeitig auch O/W-emulgierende Eigen¬ schaften besitzen. Bei der Verwendung von Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearaten als O/W- Emulgatoren werden Emulsionen erhalten, die gegenüber dem Stand der Technik eine signifikant höhere Lagerstabilität aufweisen. Ferner wurde überraschenderweise festgestellt, daß die Kondensationsprodukte auf Basis der 12-Hydroxystearinsäure flüssig sind, obwohl die eingesetzte Säure einen Schmelzpunkt im Bereich von 75°C aufweist. Somit ist neben der klassischen "Heiß-Heiß-Herstellung auch eine energiesparende "Kalt-Kalf-Herstellung der Emulsionen problemlos möglich. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform betrifil die Erfindung die Verwendung von Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearaten, die man erhält, indem man Poly- 12-hy droxy Stearinsäure mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad im Bereich von 2 bis 20, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, mit einem Polyglyceringemisch der Zusammensetzung (GC-Methode)Surprisingly, it was found that condensation products of polyols, preferably technical polyglycerol, with poly-12-hydroxystearic acid, which are known to be suitable as W / O emulsifiers, also have O / W emulsifying properties. When using polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers, emulsions are obtained which have a significantly higher storage stability compared to the prior art. It was also surprisingly found that the condensation products based on the 12-hydroxystearic acid are liquid, although the acid used has a melting point in the range of 75 ° C. In addition to the classic "hot-hot production", an energy-saving "cold-cold" production of the emulsions is also possible without any problems. In a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the use of polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates, which is obtained by poly-12-hydroxy stearic acid having a degree of self-condensation in the range from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10, with a polyglycerol mixture of the composition ( GC method)

Glycerin 5 bis 35 (15 bis 30) Gew.-%Glycerin 5 to 35 (15 to 30) wt%

Diglycerine 15 bis 40 (20 bis 32) Gew.-%Diglycerols 15 to 40 (20 to 32) wt%

Triglycerine 10 bis 35 (15 bis 25) Gew. -%Triglycerols 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight

Tetraglycerine 5 bis 20 ( 8 bis 15) Gew. -%Tetraglycerols 5 to 20 (8 to 15) wt.%

Pentaglycerine 2 bis 10 ( 3 bis 8) Gew.-%Pentaglycerols 2 to 10 (3 to 8) wt%

Oligoglycerine ad 100 Gew.-%Oligoglycerols ad 100% by weight

in an sich bekannter Weise verestert (in Klammern angegeben sind die bevorzugten Bereiche).. Polyoleesterified in a manner known per se (the preferred ranges are given in brackets). Polyols

Unter dem Begriff Polyole sind Stoffe zu verstehen, die über mindestens zwei, vor¬ zugsweise 3 bis 12 und insbesondere 3 bis 8 Hydroxylgruppen und 2 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatome verfügen. Typische Beispiele sind:The term polyols is understood to mean substances which have at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

• Glycerin und Polyglycerin;• glycerin and polyglycerin;

• Allkylenglycole wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol;• Allkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;

• Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trime- thylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;• Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Alkylglucoside mit 1 bis 22, vorzugsweise 1 bis 8 und insbesondere 1 bis 4 Kohlen¬ stoffen im Alkylrest wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;Alkyl glucosides with 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl and butyl glucoside;

• Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol,

• Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

• Aminozucker wie beispielweise Glucamin.• Aminosugars such as glucamine.

PolyglycerinPolyglycerin

Wie schon erwähnt, kommen unter den erfindungsgemäß zu verwendenden O/W- Emulgatoren Umsetzungsprodukten auf Basis von Polyglycerin wegen ihrer ausgezeichneten anwendungstechnischen Eigenschaften eine besondere Bedeutung zu. Als besonders vorteilhaft hat sich die Verwendung von ausgewählten Polyglycerinen erwiesen, die die folgende Homologenverteilung aufweisen (in Klammern angegeben sind die bevorzugten Bereiche):As already mentioned, reaction products based on polyglycerol are of particular importance among the O / W emulsifiers to be used according to the invention because of their excellent performance properties. It has proven particularly advantageous to use selected polyglycerols which have the following homolog distribution (the preferred ranges are given in brackets):

Glycerin 5 bis 35 (15 bis 30) Gew.-%Glycerin 5 to 35 (15 to 30) wt%

Diglycerine 15 bis 40 (20 bis 32) Gew.-%Diglycerols 15 to 40 (20 to 32) wt%

Triglycerine 10 bis 35 (15 bis 25) Gew.-%Triglycerols 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight

Tetraglycerine 5 bis 20 ( 8 bis l5) Gew.-%Tetraglycerols 5 to 20 (8 to 15) wt%

Pentaglycerine 2 bis 10 ( 3 bis 8) Gew.-%Pentaglycerols 2 to 10 (3 to 8) wt%

Oligoglycerine ad 100 Gew.-% Herstellung der Polyolpolv-12-hvdroxystearateOligoglycerols ad 100% by weight Production of Polyolpolv-12-hvdroxystearate

Die Herstellung der Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearate kann in an sich bekannter Weise erfolgen. Im Fall der Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearate wird dabei vorzugsweise zunächst das Polyglycerin und dann die Polyhydroxystearinsäure hergestellt und schließlich beide verestert. Die Herstellung eines Polyglycerins der oben genannten Zusammensetzung kann durch Eigenkondensation von Glycerin in Gegenwart von geeigneten Katalysatoren wie beispielsweise Kaliumcarbonat, Silicaten gemäß DE-Al 40 29 323 (Henkel) oder Boraten gemäß DE-Al 41 17 033 (Henkel) bei Temperaturen im Bereich von 200 bis 260°C durchgeführt werden.The polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates can be prepared in a manner known per se. In the case of the polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates, the polyglycerol and then the polyhydroxystearic acid are preferably first produced and finally both are esterified. The preparation of a polyglycerol of the abovementioned composition can be carried out by self-condensation of glycerol in the presence of suitable catalysts such as, for example, potassium carbonate, silicates according to DE-Al 40 29 323 (Henkel) or borates according to DE-Al 41 17 033 (Henkel) at temperatures in the range of 200 to 260 ° C are carried out.

Die Herstellung der Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure erfolgt beispielsweise durch alkalisch katalysierte Polykondensation von 12-Hydroxystearinsäure, die durch Härtung von Ricino- säure bzw. technischer Ricinusölfettsäure gewonnen wird. Vorzugsweise werden dabei lineare Veresterungsprodukte mit 2 bis 10 und insbesondere 2 bis 8 Fettsäureeinheiten gebildet. Typi¬ scherweise wird die folgende Verteilung (GPC-Methode) erreicht:The poly-12-hydroxystearic acid is prepared, for example, by alkaline-catalyzed polycondensation of 12-hydroxystearic acid, which is obtained by curing ricinic acid or technical castor oil fatty acid. Linear esterification products having 2 to 10 and in particular 2 to 8 fatty acid units are preferably formed. The following distribution (GPC method) is typically achieved:

Monomere 1 bis 10 Gew.-%Monomers 1 to 10% by weight

Dimere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Dimers 5 to 15% by weight

Trimere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Trimers 5 to 15% by weight

Tetramere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Tetramers 5 to 15% by weight

Pentamere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Pentamers 5 to 15% by weight

Hexamere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Hexamers 5 to 15% by weight

Heptamere 5 bis 15 Gew.-%Heptamers 5 to 15% by weight

Octamere 1 bis 10 Gew.-%Octamers 1 to 10% by weight

Oligomere ad 100 Gew.-%Oligomers ad 100% by weight

In einer besonderen Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden Gemische von 12- Hydroxystearinsäure und Ricinolsäure bzw. technischer Ricinusölfettsäure, die zu etwa 90 Gew.-% aus Ricinolsäure besteht, im Gewichtsverhältnis 99 : 1 bis 1 : 99 und vorzugsweise 75 : 25 bis 10 : 90 eingesetzt. In gleicher Weise ist es möglich, die Säuren einzeln zu kondensieren und anschließend die Kondensate abzumischen.In a particular embodiment of the invention, mixtures of 12-hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid or technical castor oil fatty acid, which consists of approximately 90% by weight of ricinoleic acid, are used in a weight ratio of 99: 1 to 1:99 and preferably 75:25 to 10:90 . In the same way, it is possible to condense the acids individually and then to mix the condensates.

Bei der nachfolgenden Kondensation der Polyolkomponente, beispielsweise des Polyglycerins mit der Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure bzw. den Gemischen mit Polyricinolsäure, wird eine komplexe Mischung homologer Polyester gebildet. Die Anteile an Mono-, Di-, Tri- und Oligoestem in den erfindungsgemaß einzusetzenden Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearaten und vorzugsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearaten richtet sich nach den Einsatzverhältnissen der Ausgangsverbindungen. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung wird ein Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearat mit besonders vorteilhaften anwendungstechnischen Eigen¬ schaften eingesetzt, das man erhält, indem man etwa 1000 kg 12-Hydroxystearinsäure solange einer Eigenkondensation unterwirft, bis ein Produkt mit einer Säurezahl im Bereich von 50 bis 55 resultiert und dieses dann mit etwa 150 kg Polyglycerin der oben angegebenen Zusam¬ mensetzung weiter verestert, bis die Säurezahl bis auf einen Wert kleiner 2 abgenommen hat.In the subsequent condensation of the polyol component, for example the polyglycerol with the poly-12-hydroxystearic acid or the mixtures with polyricinoleic acid, a complex mixture of homologous polyester is formed. The proportions of mono-, di-, tri- and oligoesters in the polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates to be used according to the invention and preferably polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates depend on the conditions of use of the starting compounds. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, a polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate with particularly advantageous application properties is used, which is obtained by subjecting about 1000 kg of 12-hydroxystearic acid to self-condensation until a product with an acid number in the range from 50 to 55 results and this is then further esterified with about 150 kg of polyglycerol of the composition indicated above until the acid number has decreased to a value less than 2.

Kondensationsprodukte auf Basis von Polyglycerin und Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure bzw. Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure/Polyricinolsäure können über ihre lodzahl charakterisiert werden. Typische Beispiele sind Polyester mit einer lodzahl < 10 (Basis 100 % 12-Hydroxy- stearinsäure) bzw 65 bis 80 (Basis 90 % 12-Hydroxystearinsäure, 10 % Ricinolsäure).Condensation products based on polyglycerol and poly-12-hydroxystearic acid or poly-12-hydroxystearic acid / polyricinoleic acid can be characterized by their iodine number. Typical examples are polyesters with an iodine number <10 (based on 100% 12-hydroxystearic acid) or 65 to 80 (based on 90% 12-hydroxystearic acid, 10% ricinoleic acid).

Kosmetische und pharmazeutische ZubereitungenCosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations

Die unter Verwendung der Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearate erhältlichen O/W-Emul¬ sionen bzw. kosmetischen oder pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen können als weitere Bestand¬ teile u.a. Ölkörper, Co-Emulgatoren, Fette und Wachse, Stabilisatoren, Verdickungsmittel, biogene Wirkstoffe, Filmbildner, Duftstoffe, Farbstoffe, Perlglanzmittel, Konservierungsmittel, UV-Filter, Pigmente, Elektrolyte (z.B. Magnesiumsulfat) und pH-Regulatoren enthalten.The O / W emulsions or cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations obtainable using the polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates can be used as further components, inter alia. Contain oil oils, co-emulsifiers, fats and waxes, stabilizers, thickeners, biogenic agents, film formers, fragrances, dyes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, UV filters, pigments, electrolytes (e.g. magnesium sulfate) and pH regulators.

Als Ölkörper kommen beispielsweise Guerbetalkohole auf Basis von Fettalkoholen mit 6 bis 18, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, Ester von linearen C6-C2o-Fettsäuren mit linearen C6-C2o-Fettalkoholen, Ester von verzweigten Cβ-Cι3- Carbonsäuren mit linearen Cβ- C2o-Fettalkoholen, Ester von linearen Cβ-C.g-Fettsäuren mit verzweigten Alkoholen, ins¬ besondere 2-Ethylhexanol, Ester von linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit mehr¬ wertigen Alkoholen (wie z.B. Dimerdiol oder Trimerdiol) und/oder Guerbetalkoholen, Trigly¬ ceride auf Basis Cβ-Cio-Fettsäuren, pflanzliche Öle, verzweigte primäre Alkohole, substituierte Cyclohexane, Guerbetcarbonate, Dialkylether und/oder aliphatische bzw. naphthenische Koh¬ lenwasserstoffe in Betracht. Als Co-Emulgatoren kommen beispielsweise gehärtetes und ethoxyliertes Ricinusöl, ethoxylierte Fettalkohole bzw. Partialglyceride, Alkyloligoglykoside, Polyglycerinfettsäureester oder Polyglycerinpolyricinoleate in Frage. Als Überfettungsmittel können Substanzen wie bei¬ spielsweise polyethoxylierte Lanolinderivate, Lecithinderivate, Polyolfettsäureester, Monogly¬ ceride und Fettsäurealkanolamide verwendet werden, wobei die letzteren gleichzeitig als Schaumstabilisatoren dienen. Geeignete Verdickungsmittel sind bei-spielsweise Polysaccha¬ ride, insbesondere Xanthan-Gum, Guar-Guar, Agar-Agar, Alginate und Tylosen, Carboxy¬ methylcellulose und Hydroxyethylcellulose, ferner höhermolekulare Polyethylenglycolmono- und -diester von Fettsäuren, Polyacrylate, Polyvinylalkohol und Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Tenside wie beispielsweise Fettalkoholethoxylate mit eingeengter Homologenverteilung oder Alkyl- oligoglucoside sowie Elektrolyte wie Kochsalz und Ammoniumchlorid. Unter biogenen Wirkstoffen sind beispielsweise Pflanzenextrakte und Vitaminkomplexe zu verstehen. Ge¬ bräuchliche Filmbildner sind beispielsweise Chitosan, πükrokristallines Chitosan, quaterniertes Chitosan, Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylacetat-Copolymerisate, Polymere der Acrylsäurereihe, quaternäre Cellulose-Derivate, Kollagen, Hyaluronsäure bzw. deren Salze und ähnliche Verbindungen. Als Konservierungsmittel eignen sich beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Formaldehydlösung, Parabene, Pentandiol oder Sorbinsäure. Als Perlglanz-mittel kommen beispielsweise Glycoldistearinsäureester wie Ethylenglycoldistearat, aber auch Fettsäuremono- glycolester in Betracht. Als Farbstoffe können die für kosmetische Zwecke geeigneten und zu¬ gelassenen Substanzen verwendet werden, wie sie beispielsweise in der Publikation "Kosme¬ tische Färbemittel" der Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, S.81-106 zusammengestellt sind. Diese Farbstoffe werden üblicherweise in Konzentrationen von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Mi¬ schung, eingesetzt.Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C 2 o-fatty acids with linear C6-C 2 o-fatty alcohols, esters of branched Cβ-C 3 -carboxylic acids come as oil bodies, for example linear Cβ-C2o fatty alcohols, esters of linear Cβ-Cg fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as dimer diol or trimer diol) and / or Guerbet alcohols , Triglycerides based on Cβ-cio fatty acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, Guerbet carbonates, dialkyl ethers and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Examples of suitable co-emulsifiers are hardened and ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or partial glycerides, alkyl oligoglycosides, polyglycerol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol polyricinoleates. Substances such as polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride. Biogenic active substances are understood to mean, for example, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. Suitable pearlescent agents are, for example, glycol distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid mono-glycol esters. The dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, such as are listed, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the overall mixture.

Der Gesamtanteil der Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe kann 1 bis 50, vorzugsweise 5 bis 40 Gew.-% - bezogen auf die Mittel - betragen. Die Herstellung der O/W-Emulsionen kann in an sich bekannter Weise nach der Kalt/Kalt-, Heiß/Heiß-, Heiß/Kalt- oder PIT-Methode erfolgen.The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The O / W emulsions can be prepared in a manner known per se by the cold / cold, hot / hot, hot / cold or PIT method.

Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen den Gegenstand der Erfindung näher erläutern, ohne ihn darauf einzuschränken. BeispieleThe following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail without restricting it. Examples

Beispiel 1, Vergleichsbeispiel VIExample 1, Comparative Example VI

Zur Herstellung einer Gesichtsreinigungscreme wurden die Bestandteile I bei 80°C geschmolzen und homogen verrührt. Die Bestandteile der Phase II wurden ebenfalls auf 80°C erhitzt, langsam unter Rühren zu Phase I gegeben und 5 min bei 80°C emulgiert. Die Emulsion wurde unter Rühren abgekühlt und bei ca. 50°C vorsichtig homogenisiert. Nach Erreichen einer Temperatur von 30°C wurde das Rühren eingestellt und die Emulsion nach Abkühlen auf Raumtemperatur entlüftet. Unter Verwendung von Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat als O/W-Emulgator wurde eine viskose Creme erhalten, die auch nach 12wöchiger Lagerung noch stabil war. Bei Verwendung eines bekannten hydrophilen O/W-Emulgators des Stands der Technik blieb die Mischung zweiphasig. Die Zusammensetzung der Mischungen kann Tabelle 1 entnommen werden (Mengenangaben als Gew.-%).To prepare a facial cleansing cream, the constituents I were melted at 80 ° C. and stirred until homogeneous. The components of phase II were also heated to 80 ° C., added slowly to phase I with stirring and emulsified at 80 ° C. for 5 minutes. The emulsion was cooled with stirring and carefully homogenized at about 50 ° C. After a temperature of 30 ° C. had been reached, the stirring was stopped and the emulsion was vented after cooling to room temperature. Using polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate as an O / W emulsifier, a viscous cream was obtained which was still stable even after 12 weeks of storage. When using a known hydrophilic O / W emulsifier from the prior art, the mixture remained two-phase. The composition of the mixtures can be found in Table 1 (quantitative data as% by weight).

Tabelle 1Table 1

Zusammensetzung Ges-chtsre-nigungscremeComposition facial cleansing cream

(JesϊchtsreiiugHngscreme(JesutstsreiiugHngscreme

Phase Zusammensetzung Beispiel l Vergleichsbeispiel VIPhase Composition Example 1 Comparative Example VI

I EmulgadeΘ PL 1618 10,0 15,0I EmulgadeΘ PL 1618 10.0 15.0

Plantaren® 1200 10,0 10,0Plantaren® 1200 10.0 10.0

Dehymuls® PGPH 5,0 _Dehymuls® PGPH 5.0 _

Myritol® 312 3,0 _Myritol® 312 3.0 _

Cetiol® SN _ 3,0 π Glycerin, 86 Gew.-%ig 3,0 3,0Cetiol® SN _ 3.0 π glycerol, 86% by weight 3.0 3.0

Wasser ad 100Water ad 100

Viskosität [Pa*s] 112 _Viscosity [Pa * s] 112 _

Stabilität > 12 Wochen zweiphasig n. Herstell.Stability> 12 weeks two-phase after manufacturing

Legende: Emulgade® PL 1618 = Hexadecyl Polyglucose and Hexadecyl AlcoholLegend: Emulgade® PL 1618 = Hexadecyl Polyglucose and Hexadecyl Alcohol

Plantaren® 1200 = Decyl PolyglucosePlantaren® 1200 = decyl polyglucose

Myritol® 312 = Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideMyritol® 312 = Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

Dehymuls® PGPH = Polyglyceryl Poly- 12-hydroxystearateDehymuls® PGPH = polyglyceryl poly-12-hydroxystearate

Cetiol® SN = Cetearyl Isononanoate Beispiel 2. Vergleichsbeispiel V2Cetiol® SN = Cetearyl Isononanoate Example 2. Comparative Example V2

Zur Herstellung einer Pflegecreme wurde wie unter Beispiel 1 beschrieben verfahren. Die unter Verwendung des Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearates hergestellte Creme war auch nach einer Lagerung von mehr als 12 Wochen noch stabil, die ohne den O/W-Emulgator trennte sich innerhalb von 8 Wochen in eine ölige und eine wäßrige Phase. Die Zusammen¬ setzung der Mischungen kann Tabelle 2 entnommen werden (Mengenangaben als Gew.-%).The procedure for producing a care cream was as described in Example 1. The cream produced using the polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate was still stable even after storage for more than 12 weeks; without the O / W emulsifier, the cream separated into an oily and an aqueous phase within 8 weeks. The composition of the mixtures can be found in Table 2 (quantitative data as% by weight).

Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000010_0001

Legende: Cutina® MD Glyceiyl Stearate Eumulgin® B2 Ceteareth-20 Eumulgin® Bl Ceteareth-12 Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol Cetiol® V Decyl Oleate Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Legend: Cutina® MD Glyceiyl Stearate Eumulgin® B2 Ceteareth-20 Eumulgin® Bl Ceteareth-12 Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol Cetiol® V Decyl Oleate Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate

Claims

Patentansprüche claims 1. Verwendung von Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearaten als O/W-Emulgatoren zur Herstellung von kosmetischen und/oder pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen.1. Use of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as O / W emulsifiers for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations. 2. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man Polyglycerinpoly-12- hydroxystearate einsetzt.2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate is used. 3. Verwendung nach den Ansprüchen 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearate einsetzt, deren Polyglycerinkomponente einen Eigen- kondensationsgrad im Bereich von 2 bis 10 und die nachstehende Zusammensetzung aufweist:3. Use according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate is used, the polyglycerol component of which has a degree of self-condensation in the range from 2 to 10 and the following composition: Glycerin 5 bis 30 Gew.-%Glycerin 5 to 30% by weight Diglycerine 15 bis 40 Gew.-%Diglycerols 15 to 40% by weight Triglycerine 10 bis 30 Gew.-%Triglycerols 10 to 30% by weight Tetraglycerine 5 bis 20 Gew.-%Tetraglycerols 5 to 20% by weight Pentaglycerine 2 bis 10 Gew.-%Pentaglycerols 2 to 10% by weight Oligoglycerine ad 100 Gew.-% Oligoglycerols ad 100% by weight
PCT/EP1996/002750 1995-07-03 1996-06-24 Use of polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates WO1997002002A2 (en)

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DE19650473C1 (en) * 1996-12-05 1998-04-02 Henkel Kgaa Instant sun tan lotion formulations containing di:hydroxy:acetone
DE19651478A1 (en) * 1996-12-11 1998-06-18 Beiersdorf Ag Sunscreen preparations containing surface-active mono- or oligoglyceryl compounds, water-soluble UV filter substances and optionally inorganic micropigments
DE19751221A1 (en) * 1997-11-19 1999-05-20 Beiersdorf Ag Use of alkyl hydroxystearoyl-stearate in sunscreen compositions
DE19752564A1 (en) * 1997-11-27 1999-07-01 Henkel Kgaa Pigment dispersions
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US7129276B2 (en) * 2001-05-04 2006-10-31 L'oreal S.A. Composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer
WO2003061613A1 (en) 2002-01-24 2003-07-31 L'oreal Composition containing a semi-crystalline polymer and an ester
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JPWO2013069690A1 (en) * 2011-11-07 2015-04-02 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 Cleaning composition and cleaning material
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