WO1996037187A1

WO1996037187A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid

Info

Publication number: WO1996037187A1
Application number: PCT/EP1996/002197
Authority: WO
Inventors: Tobias Mann; Anja MÜLLER; Susann Richert; Gerhard Sauermann; Volker Schreiner
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 1995-05-23
Filing date: 1996-05-22
Publication date: 1996-11-28
Also published as: JPH11505818A; EP0827392A1; DE19518845A1

Abstract

The object of the invention comprises the use of phytic acid or its salts for the prevention and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or hair and also combinations containing one or more active agents selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more agents selected from the chelating agent group.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid

The invention relates to active ingredients and cosmetic or dermatological preparations, in particular topical preparations, which alleviate the consequential damage of substances with an oxidizing effect or acute or chronic light exposure, in particular exposure to ultraviolet light, and those which have an oxidizing effect before the consequential damage or acute or chronic light UV exposure protect, i.e. act preventively.

The damaging effects of sunlight are well described. Rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause an erythema, a simple sunburn, when a minimum dose is exceeded. The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness.

In addition to this acute damage, sunlight, in particular in the UVA range from 320 nm to 400 nm, can be cumulatively damaging in repeated, ie chronic, exposure and can damage the elastic and collagen fibers of the skin. This process is called Called photoaging of the skin. It overlays and accelerates the natural aging process of the skin and causes its increasing flaccidity and wrinkles. In addition, visible vasodilation (couperosis), local incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) are part of the symptom complex of photo-aged, i.e. chronically exposed to UVA. All of these phenomena are detailed in the Handbook of Nonprescription Drugs, 7th Ed. Chapter 26, pp: 499-511 (Am. Pharmaceutical Association, Washington, DC, 1982).

UVA radiation is also the cause of numerous phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions. It can also increase the harmful effects of UVB radiation.

Ultimately, a large part of the causes of the macroscopic phenomena of photoaging mentioned above are due to functional disorders of the skin cells, whose enzyme-catalyzed biochemical activity (skin metabolism) is significantly restricted by the photoaging process. On the other hand, damage caused by chronic UV exposure affects scaffolding and structural proteins (e.g. keratins, microfilaments) inside and outside the cells, which, for example, make up the mechanical properties of the skin cell structure. UV radiation can lead to photochemical reactions, with the photochemical reaction products intervening in all levels of skin metabolism.

One cause of the endogenous skin aging process, which is accelerated by external influences, is an increase in the content of ketoproteins in the homolayer. Ketoproteins result from an oxidative modification of side groups of amino acid residues of the protein. A carbonyl group is introduced into these side chains with the participation of strong oxidizing agents (for example H ₂ 0 ₂ ). However, ketoproteins also serve as markers for the UV or oxygen radical-induced damage to proteins of the epidermis. Human hair is also exposed to the damaging effects of UV light and weathered as it ages, among other things due to the oxidative splitting of stabilizing disulfide bridges. Furthermore, high concentrations of hydrogen peroxides are used in a large number of hair dyeing processes, which may possibly cause damage to the hair substance as a side effect.

The photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals. Undefined radical photo products, which arise in the skin and hair itself, can also initiate uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical, excited and very reactive state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species will also be formed on UV exposure, which in turn, e.g. can oxidatively intervene in biochemical processes of the skin

In order to prevent these reactions and to protect the skin from UV radiation, numerous compounds are used in topical preparations which absorb, ie filter, the UVB and / or UVA radiation.

Typical UVB filters are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole. To protect the skin from UVA radiation, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are mostly used.

However, UV filters pose the following problems for the consumer: They only have a protective, but no therapeutic effect. To ensure optimal protection, the filter substances must cover the skin permanently with an even and evenly distributed film. However, these requirements can hardly be met, since wrinkles permeate the surface of the skin and the user often moves or sweats in water under sunlight. In addition, UV filters can harbor a certain risk of irritation for mucous membranes and occasionally cause a burning sensation on sensitive areas of the skin (stinging potential).

As a further, purely physical protection, topical preparations are admixed with UV-reflecting or UV-scattering substances. Substances such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide fulfill this task, but give the preparations an unattractive, whitish color. In addition, it is not always possible to adequately fix these substances on the skin surface.

In order to prevent the photochemical reactions, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can also be added to cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Antioxidants are substances that prevent oxidation processes in the surrounding medium (skin, hair or product). Antioxidants which are used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmacy are, for example, α-tocopherol, in particular in the form of α-tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxyanisole and butylated hydroxytoluene.

In US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as numerous other documents, it has been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative, that is to say oxygen radical neutralizing, effect in sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved here still falls short of the hoped-for effect.

An object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, an active ingredient or preparations containing this active ingredient should be made available, the use of which can reduce or reduce the damage to the skin and / or hair due to oxidative influence, for example by reducing the formation of ketoproteins. A further object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic preparations in particular which counteract the aging of the hair or before or after treatment of the hair with bleaching agents or hair dye preparations, even those with a high content of strong oxidizing agents, for example hydrogen peroxide, the harmful oxidizing effect of which.

These objects are achieved in accordance with the present invention.

The invention relates to the use of phytic acid or its salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the hair.

The invention also relates to the use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid or its salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the hair.

Topical preparations are preferred.

Phytic acid (myo-inositol hexaphosphate, international free name: fytic acid) is known and described in the literature ("Römpp Chemie Lexikon", 9th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, DE, p. 3431 (1991) and "The Merck Index, 11 Edition, Merck & Co., Inc., Rahway, USA, p. 1172 (1989).

The invention also relates to combinations of active substances containing one or more active substances selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more active substances selected from the group of chelating agents.

Preferred chelating agents are alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and their salts or deferoxamine and its acid addition salts.

In the following, the term “active ingredients” also extends to the active ingredient combinations and preparations with them. In addition, cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by a content of an active ingredient combination containing one or more active ingredients, selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with an active ingredient or more active ingredients, selected from the group of chelating agents, are the subject of Invention.

Topical preparations are preferred.

Combinations are preferred which contain one or more alpha-hydroxy fatty acids as chelating agents and / or deferoxamine.

The invention also relates to the use of active substance combinations containing one or more active substances, selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts, in combination with an active substance or more active substances, selected from the group of chelating agents, for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or hair.

In addition, the use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by a content of a combination of active substances, containing one or more active substances, selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more active substances, selected from the group of chelating agents, for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the hair. Object of the invention.

Mixtures of alpha-hydroxy fatty acids can be formed by two, more or even a larger number of compounds and contain these compounds in different amounts by weight. For example, fractions from natural sources can have a larger number due to Have homologues or structural isomers, however, synthesized acids can consist of one compound each.

The alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention can be straight-chain or branched. The saturated, aliphatic alpha-hydroxy fatty acids are preferred.

Preferred alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms, but in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 16 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the fatty acids in such areas are also advantageous.

The following alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and their salts, in particular in the D form, are particularly preferred:

alpha-hydroxy hexadecanoic acid

(alpha-hydroxy-palmitic acid).

According to the invention, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids obtained from wool wax can also be used, e.g. Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid mixtures obtainable according to known isolation processes (DE-A-2 04 321) which are obtained from wool wax acid mixtures. They are preferably obtained as a D-enantiomer mixture. The individual compounds obtainable by known processes are also preferred.

The alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention are known or can be obtained by known processes. Racemates obtained in the synthesis can be split into the isomers in customary processes.

Preferred salts of the active compounds according to the invention are compatible salts, in particular water-soluble salts, for example the sodium or potassium salts. The active compounds according to the invention are preferably used in the acid form. α-Hydroxy fatty acids are natural components of the lipid membranes present in the human horny layer. They are bound to the sphingosine of ceramides 4, 5 and 61 or 611 in an amide-like manner and can be released by an enzyme present in the horny layer, ceramidase. They have no UV-absorbing properties and are therefore not attributable to the filter substances.

Α-Hydroxypalmitic acid is regarded as a particularly advantageous α-hydroxy fatty acid in the sense of the present invention. The α-hydroxypalmitic acid is a natural component of the wool wax acid π of sheep, which is also a source of this active ingredient for cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

The published patent application DE-A-4204321 describes the deodorising properties, the ability to serve as preservation aids or to bind ions. However, it was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art or it could be gathered from the document that the active ingredient group according to the invention in the combinations would develop the properties according to the invention.

Deferoxamine is known from the literature and the free international short name for desferrioxamine or also 30-amino-3,14,25-trihydroxy-3,9, 14,20,25-pentaazatriacontan-2, 10, 13,21, 24-pentaon ("Römpp Chemie Lexikon", 9th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, p. 876 (1991) and "The Merck Index", 11th edition, Merck & Co., Inc., Rahway, USA, p. 449 ( 1989).

Preferred acid addition salts are compatible salts, especially water soluble salts, e.g. the hydrochloride.

The term “oxidative action” is to be understood both to mean the action of substances having an oxidizing action and also the oxidative action of radiation, namely light, in particular UV light and the secondary products caused thereby. By "damaging" are meant those effects which cause undesirable changes in the skin or hair, for example aging, or ketoprotein formation but, for example, not the desired bleaching effect of hair bleaches or, for example, the desired effect of hair colors.

The active substances and preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they alleviate the consequential damage of oxidizing substances or acute or chronic light exposure, in particular exposure to ultraviolet light, and protect them from the consequential damage of oxidizing substances or acute or chronic light exposure or UV exposure, i.e. preventively Act.

Surprisingly, it has also been found that the active compounds and preparations according to the invention reduce the formation of ketoproteins in the skin and reduce or prevent the skin changes or skin damage which occur with skin aging, in particular endogenous skin aging and photoaging of the skin. They have a preventive effect, but they can also repair damage that has already occurred.

It is particularly preferred to use the active substances and preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin changes and skin damage caused by skin aging, in particular endogenous skin aging and photoaging of the skin and ketoprotein formation.

In photoaging, the active substances and preparations according to the invention can be used with UVA and / or UVB radiation.

The hair is also subject to a constant aging process, which is mainly based on oxidative effects.

If human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamiπ) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. In oxidatively colored human hair, similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes can be detected at the places where Meianingranuia was present.

It cannot be ruled out that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.

Oxidative agents that can cause damage are also used for bleaching hair and shaping hair.

The invention particularly relates to the use of the active compounds and preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of hair damage caused by hair cosmetics, e.g. Bleaching agents, colorants and shaping agents.

It was therefore not foreseen by the expert that the ^• active compounds or compositions of the invention comprising these

the binding of harmful photoproducts to lipids, DNA and has a better reducing effect on the formation of radicals

Proteins better prevent ketoprotein formation in the skin, reduce the aging effect, protect the skin against photoreactions, better absorb the skin

as the active ingredients, combinations of active ingredients and preparations of the prior art. The cosmetic or dermatological preparations or formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

They contain e.g. 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, but in particular 0.1 wt .-% to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations of phytic acid or its Salt.

The proportion of the active compound combinations according to the invention in the preparations is, for example 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, but in particular 0.1% to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

In combination, the weight ratio of the phytic acid or its salts to that of the chelating agent is advantageously 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, particularly preferably approximately 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Preparations for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics. Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemission of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, multiple emulsions, for example of the water- in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present the active compounds according to the invention in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other customary encapsulation materials, for example in the form of cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated. In particular, wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have been found to be favorable.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible and advantageous to insert the active compounds according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

An advantageous embodiment of the present invention is therefore also the use of active substances according to the invention for protecting the skin and / or hair from oxidative damage, in particular this use of the active substances according to the invention in shampoos and washing formulations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, the active compounds according to the invention can also be combined with antioxidants for the effects according to the invention. Such combinations are also the subject of the invention, as are the uses as have already been stated for the active compounds.

According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, Imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine,

D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids,

Carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives,

Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.

Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thioie (e.g.

Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl,

N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts,

Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their

Derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines,

Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-,

Heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin,

EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives

(e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives,

Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.

Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and

Derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives,

Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguanay resin acid,

Nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their ^'

Derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and their derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS04) selenium and their derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine),

Stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the said fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

natural, synthetic and / or partially synthetic oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural synthetic and / or partially synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

saturated compounds such as hydrocarbons of natural or synthetic origin (petroleum jelly, squalane)

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also of types ETD ( Easy-to-disperse) 2001, 2020, 2050, each individually or in any combination with each other.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

Gels according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerin, and water or an ^{'abovementioned} oil in the presence of a thickener, preferably in oily-alcoholic gels is silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the Total amount of the filter substances is, for example, 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

If the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2,4,6-trianiiino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of the UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compounds according to the invention, should of course not be limiting.

The invention also relates to the use of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It can also be advantageous to combine active ingredients according to the invention with UVA filters. For example, suitable are those which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter or the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter or the use of a combination of Active substances according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substances according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.

The combinations with UV filters and UV protective substances have the effects described for the active substances and can be used in the same way.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain active substances and auxiliaries as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment. Serve as auxiliaries Preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickening agents, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to dye the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself, electrophoresis , Substances against greasy hair.

Electrolytes for the purposes of the present invention are water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are pharmaceutically or cosmetically harmless award.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, active substance combinations according to the invention in an aqueous medium and auxiliaries as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration of between 1% and 50% by weight.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are in the form of a lotion which is rinsed out and used, for example, before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent wave treatment, these are, for example, aqueous or aqueous alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight. These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution represents and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as active ingredient combinations according to the invention in effective concentration. The amount of the polymers used is e.g. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, which contain active ingredients according to the invention, can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. In addition to water, non-ionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of active compound combinations according to the invention and the solvents usually used for them, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose , Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, for example aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight. The amount of the active compounds according to the invention in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-free or anhydrous cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example

conventional soaps, e.g. Fatty acid salts of sodium

Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates

Sulfoacetates

Sulfobetaines

Sarcosinate

Amidosulfobetaines

Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinic acid semiesters

Alkyl ether carboxylates

Protein fatty acid condensates

Alkyl betaines and amido betaines

Fatty acid alkanolamides

Polyglycol ether derivatives

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to the active ingredient combinations according to the invention, they preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries of the kind usually used for this purpose. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain, in addition to an effective content of active ingredients according to the invention, at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary according to the invention, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

The present invention also encompasses a cosmetic or dermatological method for protecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic agent which contains an effective concentration of active compound combinations according to the invention is sufficient Apply a lot to the skin or hair.

The active substances according to the invention can be used individually or as a mixture of several active substances and can also be contained individually or as a mixture in the preparations.

It has proven to be advantageous to adjust the pH of the preparations according to the invention e.g. to be set in the range from 4 to 9, but in particular in the range from pH5 to pH7.

The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that active ingredients according to the invention are incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se. This can e.g. done by stirring or emulsifying.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. All quantities, proportions and percentages unless otherwise stated, are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture. The preparations are prepared in a manner known per se.

example 1

W / O cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 10.00

Petrolatum 4, 00

Wool wax alcohol 1.00%

PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Phytic acid 1.0

Glycerin 2.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 2

W / O lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 20.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Glucose Seqiisostearate 2.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Phytic acid 1, 5

Vitamin E acetate 2.00

Vitamin C palmitate 0.20

Glycerin 5.Q0

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 24

Example 3

O / W lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 8.00

Isopropyl palmitate 3.00

Petrolatum 4.00,

Cetearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-40 castor oil 0.50

Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40

Phytic acid 0.7

Glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 4

O / W cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 7.00

Avocado oil 4.00

Glyceryl monostearate 2.00

Sodium stearate 1, 00

Phytic acid 0.8

Sodium phytate 1, Q0

Titanium dioxide 1.00

Sodium lactate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 5

Lip balm

% By weight

Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00

Ceresin 8.00

Beeswax 4.00

Carnauba wax 2.00

Petrolatum 40.00

Phytic acid 2.0 ß-carotene 0.10

Paraffin oil, pigments and dyes ad 100.00

Example 6

Gel containing liposomes

% By weight

Lecithin 6.00

Ski butter 3.00

Phytic acid 2.0

Vitamin A palmitate 0.20

Biotin 0.08

Sodium citrate 0.50

Glycine 0.20

Urea 0.20

Sodium PCA 0.50

Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00

Xanthan gum 1, 40

Sorbitol 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 Example 7

Hair treatment

% By weight

Paraffin oil 3.00

Almond oil 3.00

Cetostearyl alcohol 5.00

PEG - 40 castor oil 1, 00

Sodium cetearyl surfate 0.50

Sorbitol 5.00

Glycerin 5.00

Phytic acid 1.3

Dilauryl thiodipropionate 0.05

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 8

Massage cream

% By weight

Stearyl alcohol 2.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Dimethicone 2.00

Isopropyl palmitate 6.00

Cetearyl alcohol 4.00

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00

Phytic acid 0.7

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 Example 9

W / O cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 10.00

Petrolatum 4, 00

Wool wax alcohol 1.00%

PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxypaimitic acid 0.5

Glycerin 2.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 10

W / O lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 20.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Glucose Seqiisostearate 2.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Phytic acid 1.0 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.3

Vitamin E acetate 2.00

Vitamin C palmitate 0.20

Glycerin 5.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 11

O / W lotion % By weight

Paraffin oil 8.00

Isopropyl palmitate 3.00

Petrolatum 4.00,

Cetearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-40 castor oil 0.50

Sodium ceteary sulfate 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40

Phytic acid 2.0 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.5

Glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 12

O / W cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 7.00

Avocado oil 4.00

Glyceryl monostearate 2.00

Sodium stearate 1, 00

Phytic acid 0.8 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.2

Titanium dioxide 1.00

Sodium lactate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 Example 13

Lip care stick

% By weight

Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00

Ceresin 8.00

Beeswax 4.00

Camauba wax 2.00

Petrolatum 40.00

Phytic acid 1.5 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.2 ß-carotene 0.10

Paraffin oil, pigments and dyes ad 100.00

Example 14

Gel containing liposomes

% By weight

Lecithin 6.00

Ski butter 3.00

Phytic acid 1.0 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.1

Vitamin A palmitate 0.20

Biotin 0.08

Sodium citrate 0.50

Glycine 0.20

Urea 0.20

Sodium PCA 0.50

Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00

Xanthan gum 1, 40

Sorbitol 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 Example 15

Hair treatment

% By weight

Paraffin oil 3.00

Almond oil 3.00

Cetostearyl alcohol 5.00

PEG - 40 castor oil 1.00

Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50

Sorbitol 5.00

Glycerin 5.00

Phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 1.00

Dilauryl thiodipropionate 0.05

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 16

Massage cream

Stearyl alcohol 2.00

% By weight

Petrolatum 4.00

Dimethicone 2.00

Isopropyl palmitate 6.00

Cetearyl alcohol 4.00

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00

Phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.3

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00 Example 17

O / W lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 8.00

Isopropyl palmitate 3.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Cetearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-40 castor oil 0.50

Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40

Phytic acid 2.0

Deferoxamine 0.5

Glycerin 3.00 aipha-tocopherol 0.20

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Water, preservatives and particles ad 100.00

Example 18

O / W cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 7.00

Avocado oil 4.00

Glyceryl monostearate 2.00

Sodium stearate 1, 00

Phytic acid 0.8

Deferoxamine 0.2

Sodium phytate 1.00 alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid 0.3

Titanium dioxide 1.00

Sodium lactate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Claims

claims

1. Use of phytic acid or its salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or hair.

2. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid or its salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or hair.

3. Active substance combinations containing one or more active substances selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more active substances selected from the group of chelating agents.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing an active ingredient combination according to claim 3.

5. Use of active substance combinations according to claim 3 for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the hair.

6. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by a content of an active ingredient combination according to claim 3 for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the hair.

7. Active ingredient combination according to claim 3, characterized in that it contains alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid and / or deferoxamine.

8. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phytic acid or its salts are combined with antioxidants.

9. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phytic acid or its salts are combined with at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter.

10. Active substance combinations according to claim 3, characterized in that they are combined with antioxidants.

11. Active ingredient combinations according to claim 3, characterized in that they are combined with at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter.