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WO1996004894A1 - Compositions cosmetiques anti-acneiques - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques anti-acneiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1996004894A1
WO1996004894A1 PCT/US1995/010135 US9510135W WO9604894A1 WO 1996004894 A1 WO1996004894 A1 WO 1996004894A1 US 9510135 W US9510135 W US 9510135W WO 9604894 A1 WO9604894 A1 WO 9604894A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acne
composition according
cosmetic composition
weight
acne cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1995/010135
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Gillian Scott Briggs
Teresa Barbara Crook
Graeme Douglas T. Smith
Original Assignee
The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority to US08/836,231 priority Critical patent/US5976521A/en
Priority to EP95928802A priority patent/EP0767658A4/fr
Priority to AU32420/95A priority patent/AU3242095A/en
Priority to JP8507480A priority patent/JPH10503780A/ja
Publication of WO1996004894A1 publication Critical patent/WO1996004894A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/191—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having two or more hydroxy groups, e.g. gluconic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/192—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having aromatic groups, e.g. sulindac, 2-aryl-propionic acids, ethacrynic acid 
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/194—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having two or more carboxyl groups, e.g. succinic, maleic or phthalic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/20—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms, e.g. stearic, palmitic, arachidic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/20—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms, e.g. stearic, palmitic, arachidic acids
    • A61K31/203—Retinoic acids ; Salts thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/60—Salicylic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/066—Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107—Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • A61K9/113—Multiple emulsions, e.g. oil-in-water-in-oil
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions.
  • it relates to tinted cosmetic compositions which provide excellent moisturisation, together with improved anti-acne activity and skin anti- ageing benefits and formulation and colour stability.
  • Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure.
  • the outermost of these layers referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 250 A protein bundles surrounded by 80 A thick layers.
  • Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
  • compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in maintaining its barrier and water retention functions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
  • Conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.l, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, Volume 7 are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier and water-retention (moisturising) benefits.
  • they can also suffer serious negatives in terms of skin feel (i.e. they often feel very greasy on the skin) as well as having poor rub-in, absorption and residue characteristics.
  • a pigmented cosmetic composition can serve to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like.
  • a moisturising composition having topical anti-acne activity there are many compounds which are known to exhibit anti-acne properties when applied topically to the skin.
  • a commonly used keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylic acid.
  • salicylic acid As salicylic acid is virtually insoluble in water however, it is difficult to incorporate into the aqueous phase of an emulsion composition. Delivery of salicylic acid from the pigment-containing oil phase of an emulsion composition can, on the other hand, lead to discolouration of the composition due to interaction between the salicylic acid and pigments, especially of the iron oxide type.
  • compositions requiring high water levels such as skin moisturising compositions
  • salicylic acid tends to precipitate out of solution. It would therefore be desirable to deliver salicylic acid in soluble form from the aqueous phase but without the salicylic acid precipitating out of solution.
  • an anti- acne cosmetic composition in the form of a multiple phase water-in-oil emulsion, wherein the composition comprises:
  • a coalescence inhibitor for preventing coalescence of the aqueous phases; and wherein at least a first aqueous phase comprises an anti-acne active in the form of an aqueous/alcoholic solution.
  • compositions of the present invention provide anti-acne activity and skin anti-ageing benefits, together with improved product and colour stability and superior moisturisation, skin feel and appearance.
  • compositions of the present invention are multiple phase water-in-oil emulsions which comprise two or more aqueous phases. At least a first aqueous phase comprises an anti-acne active in the form of an aqueous/alcoholic solution.
  • Suitable anti-acne actives for use herein include salicylic acid, retinoic acid, azelaic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, flavonoids, and derivatives and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anti-acne active used in the composition herein is preferably selected from salicylic acid and azelaic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably salicylic acid.
  • the anti-acne active is present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3 % , by weight of composition.
  • the anti-acne active is solubilized in water or an alcoholic solution, for example, solutions based upon C2-C6 alcohols, diols and polyols, preferred alcohols being selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Alcohol is preferably present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 1 % to about 20% .
  • the final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution preferably has a pH at ambient temperature (25 °C) of less than about pK a + 1 , where pK a is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active. In preferred embodiments, the pH of the final solution is less than about pK a .
  • H n A is the fully protonated acid
  • n is the number of protons in the fully protonated acid
  • H n .j A is the conjugate base of the acid corresponding to loss of one proton.
  • the pK a of the acidic anti-acne active used herein is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4.5, especially from about 1.5 to about 4.0.
  • the pH of the final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution is preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 7, more preferably from about 2 to about 5, especially from about 2 to about 4.
  • the aqueous phase is preferably free of acid labile species such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and polyglycerylmethacrylate.
  • compositions herein are a coalescence inhibitor for preventing coalescence of the aqueous phases.
  • the coalescence inhibitor is an electrolyte or mixture of electrolytes, preferably sodium chloride.
  • the coalescence inhibitor is present at a level of from about 0.05% to about 5% , preferably from about 0.01 % to about 2% by weight of composition.
  • compositions of the invention are in the form of a multiple phase water-in-oil emulsion comprising two or more aqueous phases
  • the compositions of the invention comprise at least a first aqueous phase which comprises an anti-acne active in the form of an aqueous/alcoholic solution.
  • This first aqueous phase preferably comprises no more than about 20% by weight of water.
  • the compositions of the invention also comprise a second aqueous phase which preferably comprises at least about 15% by weight of composition of water.
  • the compositions of the invention comprise in total from about 30% to about 50% by weight of water and about 1 % to about 15% by weight of alcoholic solvent.
  • compositions herein will generally comprise anti-acne active in an amount exceeding its solubility in an equivalent mixture of water and solvent measured under ambient conditions (25 °C). It is a feature of the invention however that by virtue of the multiple phase form of the composition and the use of a coalescence inhibitor as described herein, the anti-acne material can be formulated in soluble form at levels exceeding its normal solubility in a single phase water/alcohol system.
  • compositions of the invention comprise a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent.
  • the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is useful herein from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active and also an interfacial film former for the aqueous phases for preventing coalescence of the aqueous phases.
  • the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent used herein is preferably selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agents or C1-C4 alkyl polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agents having a molecular weight (viscosity average) in the range from about 1500 to about 1 ,500,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about 5000 to about 100,000.
  • pyrrolidone-based complexing agents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (or povidone) and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • RTM Luviskol
  • a preferred PVP complexing agent herein is Luviskol K17 which has a viscosity-average molecular weight of about 9,000.
  • Other pyrrolidone-based complexing agents for use herein include C ⁇ -Cj8 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl pyrrolidones such as lauryl pyrrolidone.
  • the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is present in the composition herein in a level of from about 0.1 % to about 10% , preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition.
  • the weight ratio of anti-acne active : pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is in the range from about 10: 1 to about 1 :10, preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1:5.
  • Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about 0.01 % to about 5% , preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 % , especially from about 0.1 % to about 0.5 % by weight of an acid or salt thereof which is soluble in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pK a of the corresponding acid, for example, an acid selected from citric acid, boric acid, and salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • an acid or salt thereof which is soluble in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pK a of the corresponding acid, for example, an acid selected from citric acid, boric acid, and salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • these materials are valuable herein in combination with the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent from the viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active.
  • Particularly preferred herein from this viewpoint is a sodium salt of citric acid.
  • the acid or salt thereof is soluble to a level of at least 5% w/w at 25
  • composition of the invention is in the form of a multiple phase water- in-oil emulsion containing two or more, preferably two discrete internal aqueous phases.
  • oil phase comprises a mixture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones.
  • the silicone oil is present in an amount of from about 1 % to about 50% by weight.
  • Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosiloxanes (as used herein, "volatile” refers to those materials which have a measurable vapour pressure at ambient conditions).
  • Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms.
  • Preferred linear silicone oils include the polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms.
  • the linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.
  • silicone oils useful in the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union Carbide Corporation).
  • Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 mm 2 ⁇ - 1 at 25°C. more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000 mm2.s ⁇ l , even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000 rnm ⁇ .s-! .
  • Lower viscosity non-volatile silicone conditioning agents can also be used. Viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
  • Suitable non ⁇ volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polysiloxanes with amino functional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the siloxanes useful in the present invention may be endcapped with any number of moieties, including, for example, methyl, hydroxy 1, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, amino and carboxyl.
  • other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be used.
  • the non-volatile polyalkyl siloxane fluids that may be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as a Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Preferably, the viscosity ranges from about 10 mm2. s -l to about 100,000 mra ⁇ s' 1 at 25°C.
  • the polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used also include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
  • the polyether siloxane copolymer that may be used includes, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may also be used.
  • a polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248
  • ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may also be used.
  • Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein include polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, said polydiorganosiloxane segment consisting essentially of R b SiO(4_b)/2
  • siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3, inclusive, there being an average value of approximately 2 R radicals per silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, at least about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percent polyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent polyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment being bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminating radical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments
  • polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the general formula:
  • R is a chain terminating group, especially selected from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino, such as dimethylamino.
  • the number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.0.
  • Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschafts Buffalo S, Postfach D-8000 Kunststoff 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd,. Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031 , Abil (RTM) B88183 and DC3225C. A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation as dimethicone copolyol.
  • the silicone oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 25 % , more preferably from about 5% to about 15 % by weight of composition of non-volatile silicones.
  • a highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant or mixture of humectants.
  • the humectant or mixture of humectants herein is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 30% preferably from about 5 % to about 25% , and more preferably from about 10% to about 20% by weight of composition.
  • the humectant or mixture of humectants is preferably present in one or more of the aqueous phases.
  • the humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion so as to form a multiphase humectant-in-oil-in-water dispersion.
  • the oil phase can comprise from about 0.1 % to about 10% , more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3 % by weight of humectant on a composition basis.
  • the humectant can be introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mixture with or incorporated within a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.
  • Suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alkoxy lated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Urea is also suitably added as a humectant in one or more of the internal aqueous phases.
  • the panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4- dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex.
  • glycerine is 1 ,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce.
  • Preferred embodiments herein comprise a pigment or mixture of pigments.
  • Suitable pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention can also include at least one matte finishing agent.
  • the function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine.
  • Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., as silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, zinc oxide (USP or ultrafine) and the like may be utilized.
  • a matte finishing agent is low lustre pigment such as titanated mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide) coated with barium sulfate.
  • talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. 12
  • Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.
  • the total concentration of the pigment may be from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, the exact concentration being dependent to some extent upon the specific mixture of pigments selected to achieve the desired shades.
  • the preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titanium dioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight of titanium dioxide.
  • the preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments.
  • the pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oils.
  • the more preferred pigments are the silicone (poly siloxane) treated pigments.
  • the water is present in two discrete internal aqueous phases, the anti-acne active only being present in one of the aqueous phases. This is particularly beneficial from the viewpoint of being able to provide a stable composition having a high water level without precipitation of the anti-acne active out of solution.
  • compositions of the present invention can also comprise a particulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer.
  • This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits.
  • the cross- linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice.
  • the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N2- BET) in the range from about 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300m 2 /g and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.
  • the cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated in the external silicone-containing oil phase.
  • the active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens.
  • the polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles.
  • the system of powder particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1 ,200 microns in average diameter.
  • the powder material of the present invention which can be employed as the carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross- linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice.
  • the powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas.
  • the lattice is in particulate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the active material.
  • the lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the active material.
  • the polymer has the structural formula:
  • the hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.
  • the material is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland. Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM) . It is an ultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while at the same time maintaining a free-flowing powder character.
  • the powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron size.
  • the polymer powder is capable of containing as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersions or melted solids.
  • Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powder.
  • Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed.
  • the preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine.
  • the weight ratio of humectant : carrier is from about 1 :4 to about 3: 1.
  • Microsponges 5647 is also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. This takes the form of generally spherical particles of cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about 0.05 ⁇ m and a surface area of 200-300m 2 /g. Again, it is preferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.
  • compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from about 0.01 % to about 10% , more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2% , and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5% .
  • the gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1 % aqueous solution, 20°C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.
  • Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium- 10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
  • Suitable gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such as trihydroxystearin and aluminium magnesium hydroxy stearate.
  • the gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellent stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
  • compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient.
  • Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable emollients for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C8-C50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, Ci- C24 esters of C8-C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil,
  • Preferred emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, lanolin alcohol, and stearyl alcohol. These emollients may be used independently or in mixtures and may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 1 % to about 30% by weight, and preferably are present in an amount from about 5% to about 15% by weight of the total composition.
  • composition may also contain additional materials such as, for example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers as appropriate.
  • additional materials such as, for example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers as appropriate.
  • UV absorbing agents can be present in a concentration in the range of between about 1 % and about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of composition.
  • the UV absorbing agents constitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight.
  • benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O) and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • Another optional but preferred component herein is one or more additional chelating agents, preferably in the range of from about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of between about 0.03 % and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the chelating agents that may be included in the composition is tetrasodium EDTA.
  • the preservative concentration in the foundation composition is in the range of between about 0.05% and about 0.8% by weight, preferably between about 0.1 % and about 0.3 % by weight.
  • Suitable preservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propyl paraben, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be in the form of moisturising creams, lotions or gels, and pigmented compositions such as tinted moisturisers, foundation and liquid concealers.
  • Titanium Dioxide treated (Aluminium hydrate, stearic acid) 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.5 1.8 2.1 1.0
  • Polyvinylpyrrolid ⁇ one (Luviskol K17) 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.6 1.0 0.8 0.0
  • the mixture of components of phase A is stirred for approximately 5 minutes with sheer mixing until homogeneous.
  • the materials of phase B are added gradually to A and the batch is mixed for 20 minutes until dispersed.
  • phase C and then phase D are slowly added to the mixture of phases A and B with high shear mixing until dispersed. Silica is added at this point and dispersed through the mixture.
  • the resulting batch heated to 90 °C before the addition of the components of phase E.
  • the vessel is cooled to 55 °C and the premixed phase F is added.
  • the batch is mixed until homogeneous.
  • the mixture is cooled to 30 °C and phase G is added.
  • Phase H is prepared by first dissolving the polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agent in alcoholic solvent and then dissolving the anti-acne active followed by the remaining components, ending with adding a solution of citric acid or salt. Phase I is then added to phase H and the resulting mixture is added to the oil phase. Premixed phase J is then also added to the oil phase.
  • the resulting composition is ready for packaging.
  • compositions of the Examples exhibit moisturisation, anti-acne activity, skin anti-ageing benefits, together with improved formulation and colour stability, skin feel and appearance.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

On décrit une composition cosmétique anti-acnéique qui prend la forme d'un émulsion huileuse à plusieurs phases, ainsi que son procédé de préparation. Cette composition comprend deux phases aqueuses ou plus et un inhibiteur de coalescence destiné à prevenir la coalescence de ces phases aqueuses. Une première phase aqueuse au moins comprend la substance active contre l'acné qui prend la forme d'une solution aqueuse/alcoolique. Cette composition présente des propriétés d'hydratation, anti-acné et anti-vieillissement de la peau, ainsi qu'une stabilité du produit et de sa couleur.
PCT/US1995/010135 1994-08-09 1995-08-08 Compositions cosmetiques anti-acneiques WO1996004894A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US08/836,231 US5976521A (en) 1994-08-09 1995-08-08 Anti-acne cosmetic compositions
EP95928802A EP0767658A4 (fr) 1994-08-09 1995-08-08 Compositions cosmetiques anti-acneiques
AU32420/95A AU3242095A (en) 1994-08-09 1995-08-08 Anti-acne cosmetic compositions
JP8507480A JPH10503780A (ja) 1994-08-09 1995-08-08 抗アクネ化粧品組成物

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9416050A GB9416050D0 (en) 1994-08-09 1994-08-09 Anti-acne cosmetic compositions
GB9416050.4 1994-08-09

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1996004894A1 true WO1996004894A1 (fr) 1996-02-22

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EP (1) EP0767658A4 (fr)
JP (1) JPH10503780A (fr)
CN (1) CN1159753A (fr)
AU (1) AU3242095A (fr)
CA (1) CA2196982A1 (fr)
GB (1) GB9416050D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO1996004894A1 (fr)

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1998005300A2 (fr) * 1996-08-07 1998-02-12 Abbott Laboratories Systeme d'administration d'agents pharmaceutiques mis en capsules avec des huiles
DE19732013A1 (de) * 1997-07-25 1999-01-28 Henkel Kgaa Multiple W/O/W-Emulsionen mit hohem Polyolgehalt
FR2820316A1 (fr) * 2001-02-05 2002-08-09 Seppic Sa Nouvelles compositions topiques a phase externe huileuse et leur procede de preparation
FR2858554A1 (fr) * 2003-08-07 2005-02-11 Seppic Sa Emulsions solaires a phase externe huileuse
US7122174B2 (en) 2002-09-30 2006-10-17 L'oreal S.A. Compositions comprising at least one silicone compound and at least one amine compound, and methods for using the same
US7226580B2 (en) 2002-02-05 2007-06-05 Seppic Topical compositions with an oily outer phase and process for their preparation
FR2924023A1 (fr) * 2007-11-28 2009-05-29 Biolog Vegetale Yves Rocher Sa Utilisation d'un extrait d'aloe pour la promotion et le renfort de la cohesion des cellules de la peau
FR3152377A1 (fr) * 2023-09-05 2025-03-07 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmétique multiphasique

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US6200964B1 (en) * 1999-05-28 2001-03-13 Neutrogena Corporation Silicone gel containing salicylic acid
DE102009002415A1 (de) * 2009-04-16 2010-10-21 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Emulgator enthaltend glycerinmodifizierte Organopolysiloxane
US20140336275A1 (en) * 2013-05-10 2014-11-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Modular Emulsion-Based Product Differentiation
US9867763B2 (en) 2013-05-10 2018-01-16 Noxell Corporation Modular emulsion-based product differentiation
EP2994097B1 (fr) * 2013-05-10 2020-12-02 Noxell Corporation Différenciation de produit à base d'émulsion modulaire
CN107648060A (zh) * 2017-09-24 2018-02-02 长沙华晨生物科技有限公司 一种不含防腐剂的面膜
CN111358745B (zh) * 2020-04-14 2021-11-23 百肽德医药生物科技(广东)有限公司 一种美白紧肤润肤面霜及制备方法
CN115501171B (zh) * 2021-11-02 2025-01-14 上海丽舒丹医药科技有限公司 一种高浓度壬二酸乳膏及其制备工艺

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US4720353A (en) * 1987-04-14 1988-01-19 Richardson-Vicks Inc. Stable pharmaceutical w/o emulsion composition
US5196187A (en) * 1990-05-10 1993-03-23 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Cosmetic composition

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FR2679788B1 (fr) * 1991-08-02 1994-03-18 Thorel Jean Noel Structures d'emulsions polyphasiques autostabilisees.
GB9316323D0 (en) * 1993-08-06 1993-09-22 Procter & Gamble Cosmetic compositions

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US4507319A (en) * 1982-02-02 1985-03-26 Lever Brothers Company Skin treatment composition
US4612331A (en) * 1982-02-02 1986-09-16 Lever Brothers Company Skin treatment composition
US4720353A (en) * 1987-04-14 1988-01-19 Richardson-Vicks Inc. Stable pharmaceutical w/o emulsion composition
US5196187A (en) * 1990-05-10 1993-03-23 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Cosmetic composition

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Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1998005300A3 (fr) * 1996-08-07 1998-05-07 Abbott Lab Systeme d'administration d'agents pharmaceutiques mis en capsules avec des huiles
US5853740A (en) * 1996-08-07 1998-12-29 Abbott Laboratories Delivery system for pharmaceutical agents encapsulated with oils
WO1998005300A2 (fr) * 1996-08-07 1998-02-12 Abbott Laboratories Systeme d'administration d'agents pharmaceutiques mis en capsules avec des huiles
DE19732013A1 (de) * 1997-07-25 1999-01-28 Henkel Kgaa Multiple W/O/W-Emulsionen mit hohem Polyolgehalt
US7229632B2 (en) 2001-02-05 2007-06-12 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques-Seppic Topical compositions with outer phase and preparation method
FR2820316A1 (fr) * 2001-02-05 2002-08-09 Seppic Sa Nouvelles compositions topiques a phase externe huileuse et leur procede de preparation
WO2002062305A1 (fr) * 2001-02-05 2002-08-15 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic Compositions topiques a phase externe et leur procede de preparation
EP1847246A3 (fr) * 2001-02-05 2011-11-30 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Compositions topiques à phase externe huileuse et leur procédé de préparation
EP1847246A2 (fr) * 2001-02-05 2007-10-24 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Compositions topiques à phase externe huileuse et leur procédé de préparation
US7226580B2 (en) 2002-02-05 2007-06-05 Seppic Topical compositions with an oily outer phase and process for their preparation
US7122174B2 (en) 2002-09-30 2006-10-17 L'oreal S.A. Compositions comprising at least one silicone compound and at least one amine compound, and methods for using the same
WO2005016301A1 (fr) * 2003-08-07 2005-02-24 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques - Seppic Emulsions solaires a phase externe huileuse
FR2858554A1 (fr) * 2003-08-07 2005-02-11 Seppic Sa Emulsions solaires a phase externe huileuse
FR2924023A1 (fr) * 2007-11-28 2009-05-29 Biolog Vegetale Yves Rocher Sa Utilisation d'un extrait d'aloe pour la promotion et le renfort de la cohesion des cellules de la peau
FR3152377A1 (fr) * 2023-09-05 2025-03-07 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmétique multiphasique
WO2025051617A1 (fr) * 2023-09-05 2025-03-13 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmétique multiphasique

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN1159753A (zh) 1997-09-17
EP0767658A4 (fr) 2001-06-20
AU3242095A (en) 1996-03-07
JPH10503780A (ja) 1998-04-07
EP0767658A1 (fr) 1997-04-16
GB9416050D0 (en) 1994-09-28
CA2196982A1 (fr) 1996-02-22

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