WO1995021182A1 - Pseudoceramides - Google Patents
Pseudoceramides Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO1995021182A1 WO1995021182A1 PCT/EP1995/000268 EP9500268W WO9521182A1 WO 1995021182 A1 WO1995021182 A1 WO 1995021182A1 EP 9500268 W EP9500268 W EP 9500268W WO 9521182 A1 WO9521182 A1 WO 9521182A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- carbon atoms
- radical
- formula
- pseudoceramides
- anhydrides
- Prior art date
Links
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000001805 chlorine compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000010933 acylation Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000005917 acylation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 150000008064 anhydrides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000003138 primary alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- FYSNRJHAOHDILO-UHFFFAOYSA-N thionyl chloride Chemical compound ClS(Cl)=O FYSNRJHAOHDILO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
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- 125000000816 ethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 2
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- WCWOEQFAYSXBRK-GASJEMHNSA-N (3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-amino-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound NC1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O WCWOEQFAYSXBRK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- VANNPISTIUFMLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N glutaric anhydride Chemical compound O=C1CCCC(=O)O1 VANNPISTIUFMLH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000007062 hydrolysis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006460 hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- CBOIHMRHGLHBPB-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxymethyl Chemical compound O[CH2] CBOIHMRHGLHBPB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012442 inert solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004668 long chain fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- FPYJFEHAWHCUMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N maleic anhydride Chemical compound O=C1OC(=O)C=C1 FPYJFEHAWHCUMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940041616 menthol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000016709 nutrition Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- ACVYVLVWPXVTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphinic acid Chemical compound O[PH2]=O ACVYVLVWPXVTIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000151 polyglycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000010695 polyglycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940068965 polysorbates Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940072033 potash Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000015320 potassium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001376 precipitating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003531 protein hydrolysate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002516 radical scavenger Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000376 reactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011541 reaction mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035484 reaction time Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001953 recrystallisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006268 reductive amination reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012261 resinous substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002884 skin cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037394 skin elasticity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004215 skin function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N sphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940014800 succinic anhydride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- ISIJQEHRDSCQIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N tert-butyl 2,7-diazaspiro[4.5]decane-7-carboxylate Chemical compound C1N(C(=O)OC(C)(C)C)CCCC11CNCC1 ISIJQEHRDSCQIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000036572 transepidermal water loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- IMFACGCPASFAPR-UHFFFAOYSA-N tributylamine Chemical compound CCCCN(CCCC)CCCC IMFACGCPASFAPR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ILWRPSCZWQJDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethylazanium;chloride Chemical compound Cl.CCN(CC)CC ILWRPSCZWQJDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
- C07H13/00—Compounds containing saccharide radicals esterified by carbonic acid or derivatives thereof, or by organic acids, e.g. phosphonic acids
- C07H13/02—Compounds containing saccharide radicals esterified by carbonic acid or derivatives thereof, or by organic acids, e.g. phosphonic acids by carboxylic acids
- C07H13/04—Compounds containing saccharide radicals esterified by carbonic acid or derivatives thereof, or by organic acids, e.g. phosphonic acids by carboxylic acids having the esterifying carboxyl radicals attached to acyclic carbon atoms
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C233/00—Carboxylic acid amides
- C07C233/01—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms
- C07C233/16—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms
- C07C233/17—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom
- C07C233/18—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom having the carbon atom of the carboxamide group bound to a hydrogen atom or to a carbon atom of an acyclic saturated carbon skeleton
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C233/00—Carboxylic acid amides
- C07C233/01—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms
- C07C233/16—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms
- C07C233/17—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom
- C07C233/20—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by singly-bound oxygen atoms with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom having the carbon atom of the carboxamide group bound to a carbon atom of an acyclic unsaturated carbon skeleton
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
- C07H15/00—Compounds containing hydrocarbon or substituted hydrocarbon radicals directly attached to hetero atoms of saccharide radicals
- C07H15/02—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures
- C07H15/12—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures attached to a nitrogen atom of the saccharide radical
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Definitions
- the invention relates to pseudoceramides obtainable by acylation of branched primary alcohols with dicarboxylic acid anhydrides, subsequent conversion of the acylation products into the acid chlorides and condensation with amine compounds, a process for the preparation of the pseudoceramides.
- a balanced water balance in the individual skin layers plays an important role for the elasticity and the appearance of the skin.
- the content of bound water is greatest in the Dennis and in the boundary layer of the epidermis near the basement membrane.
- the skin elasticity is decisively shaped by the collagen fibrils in the Dennis, the specific conformation of the collagen being achieved by the incorporation of water molecules.
- Destruction of the lipid barrier in the stratum corneum (SC), for example by surfactants leads to an increase in transepidermal water loss, which disturbs the aqueous environment of the cells. Since the water bound in the deeper layers of the skin can only be supplied via the body fluid via vessels, but not from the outside, it becomes clear that maintaining the barrier function of the stratum comeum is essential for the overall condition of the skin [cf. SEFriberg et al., CR 23rd CED Congress, Barcelona, 1992, p.29].
- Ceramides are lipophilic amides of long-chain fatty acids, which are generally derived from sphingosine or phytosphingosine. This class of endogenous fatty substances has gained considerable importance since they have been recognized in the intercellular space between the corneocytes as key components for the build-up of the lipid bilayer, ie the permeability barrier, in the stratum comeum of human skin. Ceramides have molecular weights of significantly less than 1000, so that the external site of a cosmetic formulation makes it possible to reach the site of action. The external application of ceramides leads to the restoration of the lipid barrier, which can cause the described disorders of the skin function to be counteracted [cf. R.D. Petersen, Cosm.Toil. 107, 45 (1992)].
- R a stands for hydrogen or an unsaturated fatty acyl radical
- z for numbers from 7 to 49
- A for a hydroxyalkyl
- Z for a sugar or phosphate radical
- the object of the invention was therefore to develop new high-performance ceramide-analog structures which are distinguished by the simplest possible synthesis. Another task was to produce the new pseudoceramides based on non-animal raw materials.
- the invention relates to pseudoceramides of the formula (I)
- R 1 represents a branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 50 carbon atoms
- R 2 represents hydrogen or an optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 3 represents a hydroxyalkyl radical having 2 to 12 carbon atoms and 1 to 10 Hydroxyl groups or a glycosyl radical
- X represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the pseudoceramides to be used in accordance with the invention strengthen the natural barrier function of the skin, strengthen the skin and prevent protect drying.
- the substances are modeled on the natural skin lipids, are dermatologically and ecotoxicologically harmless and can be incorporated homogeneously into the oil-phase cosmetic agent. They are colored white or ivory-like, odor-free, hydrolysis-resistant in the range of the skin pH value and color-stable against atmospheric oxygen.
- the invention includes the knowledge that the pseudoceramides can be produced on the basis of vegetable fatty alcohols and sugar, ie without the use of undesirable animal raw materials.
- pseudoceramides of the formula (I) in which R 1 for a branched alkyl radical of a Guerbet alcohol with 12 to 36 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or a methyl group, R 3 for a hydroxyalkyl radical with 6 carbon atoms and 5 hydroxyl groups, a 1.1 -Bishydroxyme- ethyl-2-hydroxyethyl radical or a glucosyl radical and X represents an ethylene group.
- the invention further relates to a process for the preparation of pseudoceramides of the formula (I)
- R 1 is a branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen or one optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 3 stands for a hydroxyalkyl radical with 2 to 12 carbon atoms and 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups or a glycosyl radical
- X stands for a linear or branched alkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, characterized in that one
- ver ⁇ -chain primary alcohols those having 12 to 50 carbon atoms ⁇ in question.
- Typical examples are 2-ethylhexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, isopalmityl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
- Particularly preferred starting materials are Guerbet alcohols with 12 to 36 carbon atoms, which are obtained by condensation of linear fatty alcohols in the presence of basic catalysts.
- Typical examples of this are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyloctadecanol and 2-hexadecylicosanol.
- Suitable dicarboxylic acid anhydrides are, for example, succinic anhydride, maleic anhydride, glutaric anhydride, phthalic anhydride and oxidic acetic anhydride.
- Dicarboxylic anhydrides of the formula (III) are preferably used in which X represents an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
- the branched primary alcohols and the dicarboxylic anhydrides can usually be used in a molar ratio of 1: 0.9 to 1: 1.1.
- the free carboxyl group of the acylation products is first converted into the acid chloride in a manner known per se.
- Phosphorus trichloride or thionyl chloride are preferably used as chlorine compounds.
- the acylation products and the chlorine compounds can usually be used in a molar ratio of 1: 0.4 to 1: 2.5.
- the chlorination is preferably carried out at -10 to 50 ° C. in the absence of water, for example gasoline fractions, toluene, ethyl acetate, tert. Butyl methyl ether or tetrahydrofuran into consideration.
- the acylation products can be reacted with chlorocarbonic acid alkyl esters in an inert solvent to give the mixed anhydrides.
- the reaction preferably takes place in the presence of an acid scavenger such as triethylamine, tributylamine or sodium or potassium carbonate, the reactants being used in approximately molar amounts at temperatures from -10 to 50, preferably 0 to 10 ° C. After the reaction, it is advisable to filter off the salts formed.
- an acid scavenger such as triethylamine, tributylamine or sodium or potassium carbonate
- Hydroxyalkalyamines which are reacted with the acid chlorides or the mixed anhydrides of the acylation products are, for example, N-alkylsorbitylamines and in particular N-alkylglucosylamines of the formula (V),
- R 2 preferably represents an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 and in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
- N-alkylglucamines of the formula (VI) are used. OH OH OH R 3
- R 2 preferably represents an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 and in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
- the N-alkylglucamines are usually produced by reductive amination of glucose with fatty amines.
- the glucosylamines and the glucamines can also be derived, for example, from maltose, fructose or palatinose.
- Also suitable as further hydroxyalkylamines are also methyl-substituted dialkanolamines, for example diethanolamine, 2,2-bis (hydroxymethyl) -2-aminoethanol and 2,2-bis (hydroxymethyl) -3-aminopropanol.
- the acid chlorides or mixed anhydrides of the acylation products and the hydroxyalkylamines or glucosylamines can usually be used in a molar ratio of 1: 0.9 to 1: 1.1.
- the condensation reaction is preferably carried out at temperatures in the range from 20 to 50 ° C. in the presence of alkaline catalysts, the reaction times typically being 1 to 10 hours. Soda, potash or tertiary amines such as triethylamine can be used as acid scavengers, for example tetrahydrofuran is recommended as solvent.
- the products can then be purified by recrystallization, for example from lower alcohols or column chromatography.
- the condensation of amine compounds with acid chlorides is is generally known and is described, for example, in EP-A 0 265 818 (CF Stockhausen).
- the manufacturing process is characterized by the sequence of the following - exemplary - reactions which are intended to aid understanding of the reaction process:
- the agents according to the invention can contain the pseudoceramides in amounts of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10% by weight. based on the agent - contained and are present both as “water-in-oil” and “oil-in-water”emulsions; further conventional auxiliaries and additives in amounts of 5 to 95, preferably 10 to 80,% by weight may also be present. Furthermore, the formulations can contain water in an amount of up to 99% by weight, preferably 5 to 80% by weight.
- suitable carrier oils for this purpose are: mineral oils, vegetable oils, silicone oils, fatty acid esters, dialkyl ethers, fatty alcohols and Guerbet alcohols.
- emulsifiers which can be used are: sorbitan esters, monoglycerides, polysorbates, polyethylene glycol mono / difatty acid esters, highly ethoxylated fatty acid esters and high molecular weight silicone compounds, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes with an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 50,000.
- additives can be: preservatives, such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester; Antioxidants, such as butylhydroxytoluene, tocopherol; Moisturizing agents, such as, for example, glycerin, sorbitol, 2-pyrrolidine-5-carboxylate, dibutyl phthalate, gelatin, polyglycols with an average molecular weight of 200 to 600; Buffers such as lactic acid / TEA or lactic acid / NaOH; mild surfactants, such as, for example, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, fatty acid isethionates, taurides and sarcosinates, ether carboxylic acids, sulfosuccinates, protein hydrolyzates or fatty acid condensates, sulfotriglycerides, short-chain glucamides; Phospholipids, waxes such as bees wax, ozokerite
- the pseudoceramides can be mixed with conventional ceramides, further pseudo-ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol fatty acid esters, fatty acids, triglycerides, cerebrosides, phospholipids and similar substances, whereby liposomes can be formed.
- the pseudoceramides can be mixed with active substance accelerators, in particular with essential oils, such as eucalyptol, menthol and the like.
- the pseudoceramides can finally also be dissolved in squalene or squalane and optionally formulated with the other ingredients mentioned together with volatile or non-volatile silicone compounds as anhydrous or almost anhydrous single-phase systems.
- squalene or squalane optionally formulated with the other ingredients mentioned together with volatile or non-volatile silicone compounds as anhydrous or almost anhydrous single-phase systems.
- volatile or non-volatile silicone compounds as anhydrous or almost anhydrous single-phase systems.
- pseudoceramides to be used as "synthetic barrier lipids" in the sense of the invention strengthen the natural barrier function of the skin against external stimuli. They improve the firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin, increase the moisture content and protect the skin from drying out; at the same time, the finest wrinkles are smoothed out.
- Another object of the invention therefore relates to the use of pseudoceramides of the formula (I) as "synthetic barrier lipids" for the production of skin care products in which they are present in amounts of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, based on the means - can be included.
- Typical examples are skin creams, soft creams, nutritional creams, sunscreen creams, night creams, skin oils, care lotions and body aerosols.
- He- ⁇ adecylsuccinic acid-C32 / 36-Guerbet alkyl ester-N-methyl sorbitol amide A solution of 8 was added to the stirred solution of 112.2 g (0.1 mol) of a monoester of hexadecylsuccinic acid with a C32 / 36 Guerbet alcohol in 150 ml of gasoline (bp. 65 to 90 ° C) at 20 ° C , 3 g (0.06 mol) of phosphorus trichloride in 30 ml of gasoline and the mixture stirred for 3 h at this temperature and 3 h at 40 ° C.
- 0.1 mol of hexadecylsuccinic acid monoguerbetalkylester was 0.11 Mol l, l-bishydroxymethyl-2-hydroxyethylamine implemented. A colorless wax was obtained.
- Hexadecylsuccinic acid-2-octadodecyl ester-N-octadecylglucosylamide A solution of 10.9 was added to the stirred solution of 112.2 g (0.1 mol) of hexadecyl succinic acid mono-2-octyldodecyl ester and 10.1 g (0.1 mol) of triethylamine in 250 ml of tetrahydrofuran at -5 ° C g (0.1 mol) of ethyl chlorocarbon were added to 50 ml of THF and the mixture was stirred for a further 2 hours at 0 ° C., triethylamine hydrochloride precipitating out.
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
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- Epidemiology (AREA)
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- Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
Abstract
L'invention concerne de nouveaux pseudocéramides de la formule (I), dans laquelle R1 désigne un reste alkyle et/ou alcényle ramifié ayant entre 12 et 50 atomes de carbone, R2 désigne hydrogène ou un reste alkyle éventuellement substitué par hydroxy, comportant entre 1 et 30 atomes de carbone, R3 désigne un reste hydroxyalkyle ayant entre 2 et 12 atomes de carbone et 1 à 10 groupes hydroxyle ou un reste glycosyle, et X désigne un reste alkylène linéaire ou ramifié ayant entre 1 et 6 atomes de carbone. Ces substances s'utilisent comme 'lipides de barrière synthétique' pour produire des agents de soins pour la peau.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE19944403258 DE4403258C1 (de) | 1994-02-03 | 1994-02-03 | Pseudoceramide |
DEP4403258.7 | 1994-02-03 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1995021182A1 true WO1995021182A1 (fr) | 1995-08-10 |
Family
ID=6509347
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP1995/000268 WO1995021182A1 (fr) | 1994-02-03 | 1995-01-25 | Pseudoceramides |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
DE (1) | DE4403258C1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO1995021182A1 (fr) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1998021176A1 (fr) * | 1996-11-11 | 1998-05-22 | Aekyung Industrial Co., Inc. | Nouveaux pseudoceramides et preparations les contenant utilisees en dermatologie externe |
WO1998034943A1 (fr) * | 1997-02-10 | 1998-08-13 | Instituut Voor Agrotechnilogisch Onderzoek (Ato-Dlo) | Amines et glycosides tensio-actifs |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR2160506A1 (en) * | 1971-11-15 | 1973-06-29 | Akzo Nv | Dry carpet shampoo - based on surfactant plant gum mixt |
EP0398272A1 (fr) * | 1989-05-19 | 1990-11-22 | Kao Corporation | Dérivés amidés et préparations pour la peau les contenant |
EP0450527A2 (fr) * | 1990-03-30 | 1991-10-09 | Kao Corporation | Amides N-tris (hydroxyméthyl)méthyl d'acides gras et compositions cosmétiques les contenant |
EP0455429A2 (fr) * | 1990-05-01 | 1991-11-06 | Unilever Plc | Compositions cosmétiques |
DE4238210C1 (de) * | 1992-11-12 | 1993-12-09 | Henkel Kgaa | Fettsäure-bis-sorbitylamide |
Family Cites Families (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US5051448A (en) * | 1984-07-24 | 1991-09-24 | The Mclean Hospital Corporation | GABA esters and GABA analog esters |
US5281746A (en) * | 1993-02-01 | 1994-01-25 | Monsanto Company | Process for preparing peroxyacid precursors having amide moieties in the fatty chain |
-
1994
- 1994-02-03 DE DE19944403258 patent/DE4403258C1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1995
- 1995-01-25 WO PCT/EP1995/000268 patent/WO1995021182A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR2160506A1 (en) * | 1971-11-15 | 1973-06-29 | Akzo Nv | Dry carpet shampoo - based on surfactant plant gum mixt |
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1998021176A1 (fr) * | 1996-11-11 | 1998-05-22 | Aekyung Industrial Co., Inc. | Nouveaux pseudoceramides et preparations les contenant utilisees en dermatologie externe |
US6221371B1 (en) * | 1996-11-11 | 2001-04-24 | Aekyung Industrial Co., Inc. | Pseudoceramides, and dermatologic external preparations containing the same |
WO1998034943A1 (fr) * | 1997-02-10 | 1998-08-13 | Instituut Voor Agrotechnilogisch Onderzoek (Ato-Dlo) | Amines et glycosides tensio-actifs |
NL1005244C2 (nl) * | 1997-02-10 | 1998-08-18 | Inst Voor Agrotech Onderzoek | Oppervlakte-actieve aminen en glycosiden. |
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