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WO1992000719A1 - Composition de maquillage - Google Patents

Composition de maquillage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1992000719A1
WO1992000719A1 PCT/US1991/004787 US9104787W WO9200719A1 WO 1992000719 A1 WO1992000719 A1 WO 1992000719A1 US 9104787 W US9104787 W US 9104787W WO 9200719 A1 WO9200719 A1 WO 9200719A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
sebum
composition
makeup
makeup composition
methacrylate
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1991/004787
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
James Peters
Original Assignee
Dowbrands Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dowbrands Inc. filed Critical Dowbrands Inc.
Publication of WO1992000719A1 publication Critical patent/WO1992000719A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin

Definitions

  • This invention relates to cosmetics or makeups, and more particularly to makeups for persons with oily skin.
  • Oil-absorbing make-ups typically employ powders such as talc or clay, walnut shell flour, silica and porous polymers for absorbing and containing the sebum continually secreted onto a user's skin, in addition to any absorption by the pigments and other particulates which are conventionally found in makeup. Even so, the capacities of oil-absorbing makeups are normally overcome after a period of 4 hours or less depending on the person and on the prevailing temperatures,
  • the present invention utilizes sebum-imbibing polymers of the type described in United States Patents No. 4, .89,058 and 4,619,826 to Lay et al. in a makeup composition for the suppression of oily shine from the skin of a user.
  • the makeup composition of the present invention effectively suppresses oily shine over a longer period of time than conventional oil-control and oil-free makeup compositions, without at the same time causing the makeup to develop a sticky feel as the sebaceous oils (hereafter collectively termed sebum) responsible for such oily shine are imbibed into the inventive makeup composition.
  • sebum sebaceous oils
  • the makeup composition of the present invention comprises an amount of one or more sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers which is effective for the sustained suppression of oily shine on the face of a user, wherein the one or more sebumimbibing polymers are sufficiently cross-linked so that the makeup composition is substantially non-sticky to the touch throughout the suppression of such oily shine.
  • a sustained suppression of oily shine can be effected by a proper selection of the amounts and types of the one or more sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers, in the sense that a trained dermatologist in a double blind test of the makeup against an untreated portion of the forehead of an oily-skinned user would perceive the treated portion of the user's forehead to be less shiny than the untreated portion of the forehead after at least 3 hours.
  • the difference in the shininess of the treated and untreated portions is perceptible for at least 6 hours, and most preferably for at least 8 hours. It is understood, of course, that where the comparison is made after washing the forehead area with soap and water, this difference in the
  • shininess of the portions of one's forehead to which makeup has been applied may not appear until a sufficient time has elapsed to replace some of the sebum removed by the washing.
  • sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers which are useful in the present invention are those materials which possess a solubility parameter
  • aliphatic diolefins i.e., alkadienes
  • copolymers having polymerized therein two or three monomer units selected from the group consisting of alkenyl aromatic compounds, alkyl esters derived from an aliphatic alcohol and acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyl esters of aliphatic carboxylic acids, and aliphatic diolefins.
  • preferred polymers are formed from at least four monomer units selected from the group consisting of styrene, styrene ring substituted with a straight or branched chain alkyl moiety of from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an alkyl ester derived from an alcohol containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and acrylic or methacrylic acid, a vinyl ester of an aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and an aliphatic diolefin of from 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • polymers comprised of at least four monomer units include, for example, a polymer having polymerized therein tert-butylstyrene, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate and vinyl toluene, or a polymer having polymerized therein styrene, lauryl methacrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, vinyl stearate and lauryl acrylate.
  • alkenyl aromatic compounds which may be utilized in the preparation of the polymers useful herein contain a straight or branched chain alkenyl residue of from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and may optionally be ring substituted with halogen or a straight or branched chain alkyl moiety of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such compounds include, for example, various halostyrenes such as 2-chlorostyrene, 3-fluorostyrene, 4-fluorostyrene and the like, vinyl naphthalenes, alkylbenzene, 2-phenyl-2-butene, styrene and various substituted styrenes such as alkylstyrenes.
  • alkylstyrenes include, for example: n-alkylstyrenes such as methylstyrene or vinyl toluene, n-butylstyrene, n-amylstyrene, n-octylstyrene, n-octadecylstyrene,and the like; isoalkylstyrenes such as isobutylstyrene,
  • tertiary-alkylstyrenes such as tert-butylstyrene, tert-amylstyrene, tert-octylstyrene, tert-eicosylstyrene and the like.
  • alkyl esters derived from an aliphatic alcohol and acrylic or methacrylic acid are acrylate or methacrylate esters derived from an alcohol moiety containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • esters include, for example, butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, isobornyl methacrylate, cetyl methacrylate, eicosyl acrylate, the mixed ester
  • cetyl-eicosyl methacrylate cetyl-eicosyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, and lauryl acrylate.
  • the vinyl esters of aliphatic carboxylic acids useful for the sebum-imbibing polymers of the makeup composition of the present invention are esters prepared from carboxylic acids containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms such as vinyl acetate, vinyl butyrate, vinyl stearate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate and the like.
  • the aliphatic diolefins useful as monomer units in the sebum-imbibing polymers are alkadienes containing from 4 to 12 carbon atoms such as butadiene, pentadiene, 2-methyl-1,3-butadiene and the like.
  • alkenyl aromatic compounds those which are preferred for use as monomer units are styrene and ring-substituted styrene wherein the substituent is a straight or branched chain alkyl moiety of from one to twelve carbon atoms (alternatively referred to as an alkylstyrene) such as vinyl toluene, n-hexylstyrene, sec-octylstyrene, tert-butylstyrene, n-dodecylstyrene and the like.
  • alkylstyrene such as vinyl toluene, n-hexylstyrene, sec-octylstyrene, tert-butylstyrene, n-dodecylstyrene and the like.
  • alkyl esters derived from a C 1 -C 20 alcohol and acrylic or methacrylic acid those which are preferred as constituent monomer units are acrylate or methacrylate esters derived from an alcohol moiety containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and may be a linear fatty alcohol residue such as cetyl, lauryl, stearyl, or eicosyl, or a secondary alcohol residue.
  • the vinyl esters of aliphatic carboxylic acids preferred as monomer units are those wherein the aliphatic carboxylic acid contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms such as vinyl stearate.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms such as vinyl stearate.
  • diolefins those diolefins containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • the one or more sebum-imbibing polymers used in the makeup composition of the present invention are preferably able to imbibe at least a volume of sebum on the face of a user equal to the volume of such polymers in the composition, and most preferably at least a volume equal to twice the volume of such polymers.
  • Polymers with these capacities for sebum imbibition can result from the combination of units of styrene or alkylstyrene with one or two or three or more comonomers selected from the group consisting of (a) an alkyl ester of a C 1 -C 20 alcohol (especially a C 8 to C 20 alcohol) and acrylic or methacrylic acid; (b) a vinyl ester of a C 8 -C 20 carboxylic acid; or (c) an aliphatic diolefin of from 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the alkylstyrene can be, for example, vinyl toluene or preferably a tertiary- alkylstyrene such as 4-tert-butylstyrene, 4-tert-amylstyrene, 3,5-ditert-butylstyrene,
  • the alkyl ester monomer preferably includes one or both of a methacrylate or acrylate ester of one or more C 8 - C 20 fatty alcohols, or a C 10 to C 20 fatty alcohol methacrylate or acrylate as essentially the sole
  • the vinyl ester may be an ester of a C 8 to C 20 carboxylic acid such as vinyl stearate, vinyl palmitate, vinyl laurate and the like.
  • the aliphatic diolefin is preferably butadiene.
  • the polymers from these preferred combinations may contain from 5 to 95 percent styrene or alkylstyrene monomer by weight.
  • the polymer may contain from 30 to 60 to 85 to 90 percent by weight of styrene or alkylstyrene.
  • polymers are prepared from alkyl ester monomers derived from a C 8 to C 20 alcohol and one or both of acrylic or methacrylic acid, or from an alkyl ester monomer derived from a C 8 to C 20 alcohol and acrylic or methacrylic acid as a comonomer with a vinyl ester of an aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the latter polymer contains from 20 to 70 percent by weight of the vinyl ester.
  • homopolymers of aliphatic diolefins containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms such as polybutadiene.
  • polymers of the preferred polymers those which are particularly preferred are: polymers of styrene and lauryl methacrylate; vinyl toluene and lauryl
  • tert-butylstyrene 2-ethylhexylacrylate and lauryl methacrylate
  • terpolymers of tert-butylstyrene 2-ethylhexylacrylate and lauryl methacrylate
  • polymers of vinyl stearate and lauryl methacrylate or isobornyl methacrylate polymers of tert-butylstyrene, 2-ethylhexylacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and vinyl toluene or stearyl methacrylate; and a homopolymer of butadiene.
  • copolymers of lauryl methacrylate and isobornyl methacrylate are particularly preferred, and most preferably the one or more sebum-imbibing,
  • sebum-retaining polymers in the composition consist substantially entirely of a copolymer of lauryl
  • the copolymer is preferably from 30 to 70 parts by weight of isobornyl methacrylate per hundred parts by combined weight of the isobornyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate monomers, with from 70 parts to 30 parts by weight of lauryl methacrylate. More preferably, the monomer ratio by weight is from 35 to 60 parts of isobornyl methacrylate to from 65 to 40 parts of lauryl methacrylate. Most preferably, the ratio by weight of the isobornyl
  • methacrylate to lauryl methacrylate monomer units in the copolymer is 40 to 60.
  • the one or more sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers are sufficiently cross-linked so that the makeup composition of which the one or more polymers are a part is substantially non-sticky to the touch while the sebum responsible for oily shine on the face of a user continues to be imbibed and the oily shine
  • Each of the polymers is sufficiently cross- linked so as to swell rather than be soluble in sebum; the additional cross-linking necessary for achieving a substantially non-sticky feel in the makeup is
  • polyethylenically unsaturated cross-linking agents include, for example, divinylbenzene, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diisopropenylbenzene,
  • butadiene or isoprene polymers cyclooctadiene
  • cross-linking agent is generally reciprocally related to both the rate and capacity for imbibition of such sebum by the polymers described herein, with the selection of a suitable polymer and above a certain level of cross-linking agent a substantial absence of stickiness in the applied makeup compositions of the present invention can be achieved, without an accompanying significant loss in the capacity to suppress oily shine. This substantial absence of stickiness is highly desirable. At the same time, however, it will also be desirable to employ no more of the cross-linking
  • cross-linking agent(s) which will just achieve the desired non-stickiness in the makeup composition as applied to the face of a user will be different for different makeup compositions, but can be established through routine experimentation with the guidance and examples provided herein.
  • the most preferred copolymer of lauryl methacrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomer units is cross-linked with at least 0.5 percent by weight based on the polymer of divinylbenzene to avoid stickiness in an "imbibed" condition.
  • 0.5 percent by weight of divinylbenzene is employed.
  • the particle size of the sebum-imbibing polymers used herein can vary based on considerations such as the desired rate of imbibition, but in general the particles may be from 100 Angstrom units to 2 millimeters wide at their smallest diameter. These small particles can be made by a variety of known methods such as grinding, milling, cutting or
  • the particles are generally spherical particles with diameters of from 1 to 500 microns which are made by a known suspension polymerization technique.
  • the material to be reacted to form a given sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymer (the reaction mixture) is assembled by mixing the monomers and the cross-linking agent for a polymer in the proportions desired in the polymer (the monomer mixture).
  • a polymerization initiator such as potassium persulfate or tert-butyl peroctoate is added either to the monomer mixture or to the aqueous portion of the polymeric microsuspension (consisting of water containing an emulsifying agent or suspending agent), depending on the initiator used and its relative solubility in the monomer mixture versus the aqueous portion with which the monomer mixture is to be combined.
  • the monomer mixture and aqueous portion are then mixed with stirring so that the particle size in the monomer mixture is reduced to the size desired for the polymerization and the jnonomer mixture is well-dispersed in the aqueous portion, with the monomer mixture comprising from 20 to 60 percent by weight of the combined reaction mixture.
  • the resulting polymer can be recovered by passing the suspension through a screen.
  • the makeup composition of the present invention can generally result from the addition of the sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers described above to existing oil-free and oil-control makeups, and can therefore generally contain any of the materials conventionally used in such products in addition to other beneficial materials, except that:
  • composition is preferably substantially free of materials which:
  • the average particle size of particulate solids in the makeup composition exceeds one micron, and preferably is not substantially less than 5 microns.
  • Materials having solubility parameters in the range of from 7 to 11 (cal/cm 3 )1 ⁇ 2 may be imbibed by the polymers in the composition, and thereby reduce the makeup composition's capacity to imbibe sebum.
  • Imbibition of these materials can also result in agglomeration and stability problems with the polymer particles or beads in the composition.
  • Still other materials may not have a solubility parameter in this range, but may interfere with the imbibing function of the sebum-imbibing polymers, for example, by coating the polymer beads to an extent whereby a physical barrier to the sebum is erected around a bead.
  • An example of a material believed to present such difficulties is glycerine. If the use of a material with a solubility parameter in the range of from 7 to 11 (cal/cm 3 )1 ⁇ 2 is contemplated, tests will preferably be conducted to assess the impact of such a material on the efficacy and stability of a makeup composition containing the material.
  • the one or more sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining polymers are able to imbibe at least a volume of sebum on the face of a user equal to the volume of such polymers, and comprise from
  • the makeup composition contains for a sebum-imbibing polymeric portion only a cross-linked copolymer of from 30 to 70 parts by weight of isobornyl methacrylate (IBMA) and from 70 to 30 parts by weight of lauryl methacrylate (LMA), cross-linked with 0.5 percent by weight of divinylbenzene (DVB), the sebum-imbibing polymeric portion or crosslinked IBMA/LMA copolymer will preferably comprise from 5 to 30 percent by weight of the composition.
  • the cross-linked copolymer of from 30 to 70 parts by weight of isobornyl methacrylate (IBMA) and from 70 to 30 parts by weight of lauryl methacrylate (LMA), cross-linked with 0.5 percent by weight of divinylbenzene (DVB)
  • the sebum-imbibing polymeric portion or crosslinked IBMA/LMA copolymer will preferably comprise from 5 to 30 percent by weight of the composition.
  • the cross-linked copolymer of from 30
  • IBMA/LMA copolymer will comprise from 10 to 15 percent by weight of the composition.
  • Example 1 The present invention is more fully illustrated by the following Examples: Example 1
  • a series of cross-linked copolymers of 50 parts by weight isobornyl methacrylate (IBMA) (based on combined monomer, i.e., IBMA and LMA, weight) and 50 parts by weight of lauryl methacrylate (LMA) were prepared by a suspension polymerization technique described above, with different levels of the cross-linking agent divinylbenzene (DVB).
  • IBMA isobornyl methacrylate
  • LMA lauryl methacrylate
  • ethylvinylbenzene with 3.97 grams of t-butylperoctoate added as an initiator.
  • the monomer mixture was then combined with an aqueous portion for the polymeric microsuspension which contained 2356 grams of filtered deionized water and 48.0 grams of hydroxypropyl-methylcellulose, by mixing the monomer mixture and the aqueous portion in an Eppenbach mixer at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes and then at 5000 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • the combined aqueous portion and monomer mixture were then polymerized in a round bottom flask at 75oC overnight. After cooling, the microsuspension was filtered through a 200 mesh stainless steel screen.
  • a bead of the polymer with an intial bead diameter of about 150 microns was placed in a microscope well slide.
  • the bead was covered with olive oil (as a model for sebum) and bead diameter
  • Example 2 Microsuspensions (48 percent solids) of cross-linked IBMA/LMA copolymers having different degrees of cross-linking with divinylbenzene (DVB) and different monomer ratios were prepared as in Example 1. Four grams of each microsuspension were added to ten grams of a commercial oil-control makeup so that a number of makeup compositions of the present invention were formed.
  • DVD divinylbenzene
  • Each makeup composition was then applied to a preweighed glass plate in a 5-mil-thick coating, and the coated plates were air-dried. After weighing the coated plates and measuring an initial reflectance from the plates, varying amounts of olive oil were placed on the individual plates. The reflectance from each coated plate was thereafter measured at intervals. At the conclusion of six hours' time the excess oil was blotted off and the plate reweighed to determine the amount of oil imbibed over the six hours. Observations were also made of the stickiness of the coating after this six hour period. The results for the various compositions are reported in Table 3.
  • compositions of the present invention show reduced reflectance and greater capacity for the olive oil than the commercial oil-control makeup.
  • Each of the two compositions was coated on a series of preweighed glass plates as in Example 2 and air-dried.
  • the coated plates were weighed again and the reflectance of each measured. Varying amounts of olive oil were then added onto the coated plates, and the reflectance of the plates measured over a six hour period as the oil was being imbibed and/or absorbed into the coatings on the plates. The excess oil was blotted off with a tissue, and the amount of oil imbibed determined by weighing the plates after the excess oil was removed.
  • Example 4 In this Example two cross-linked polymer systems, one corresponding to a cross-linking
  • agent/divinylbenzene level of 1.0 percent by weight of the monomer mixture i.e., the IBMA, LMA, and DVB
  • the other to a DVB level of 0.02 percent by weight were combined to produce the high capacity for imbibition.
  • the resulting makeup composition thus contained sebum-imbibing, sebum-retaining copolymers with a weighted average divinylbenzene content of approximately 0.755 (or, .75(1.0) + .25(.02)) percent.
  • the makeup composition was coated on several plates and tested as in earlier examples, with the results shown in Table 5. None of the plates were sticky at the conclusion of the six hour test.
  • Makeup composition "A" of Example 3 was clinically tested on seven subjects determined by a SebutapeTM indicator (CuDerm Corporation) to have oilier-than-normal skin (a reading of 3 or greater on a 0-6 rating scale). After each subject had washed his or her forehead with soap and water, 0.09 grams of
  • composition A was applied to one side of each subject's forehead (the "treated” side), with a "placebo" makeup (replacing the sebum-imbibing polymers of the present invention with water) being applied to the other, or “untreated” side.
  • Sebumeter readings were taken of both sides of each person's forehead on arrival, after the initial soap and water wash, as soon as the makeups had dried, and at 1, 2, 3.5, 5 and 6 hours after the makeup was applied. The average of two sebumeter readings is reported for each side and time in Table 6.
  • compositions of the present invention are effective in suppressing an oily appearance to the skin of a user and in controlling the amount of free sebum on such skin.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Composition de maquillage permettant à un utilisateur de supprimer une apparence huileuse sur le visage pendant une durée prolongée sans effet visqueux ou décoloration.
PCT/US1991/004787 1990-07-09 1991-07-08 Composition de maquillage WO1992000719A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US550,261 1983-11-08
US55026190A 1990-07-09 1990-07-09

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO1992000719A1 true WO1992000719A1 (fr) 1992-01-23

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0678294A3 (fr) * 1994-04-18 1996-08-28 Goldwell Gmbh Agent et procédé de nettoyage des cheveux humains et utilisation d'agent à cet effet.
WO1999037689A1 (fr) * 1998-01-21 1999-07-29 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Polymere obtenu par microsuspension renfermant des groupes acide
WO1999037688A1 (fr) * 1998-01-21 1999-07-29 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Polymeres greffes obtenus par microsuspension et leur procede de production
US6066313A (en) * 1997-08-27 2000-05-23 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Cosmetic compositions
EP4237457A1 (fr) * 2020-10-28 2023-09-06 Dow Silicones Corporation Copolymère de (méth)acrylate de silicone et ses procédés de préparation et d'utilisation dans des compositions de soins personnels

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4489058A (en) * 1983-05-23 1984-12-18 The Dow Chemical Company Acne control method
US4619826A (en) * 1983-05-23 1986-10-28 The Dow Chemical Company Acne control method

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4489058A (en) * 1983-05-23 1984-12-18 The Dow Chemical Company Acne control method
US4619826A (en) * 1983-05-23 1986-10-28 The Dow Chemical Company Acne control method

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0678294A3 (fr) * 1994-04-18 1996-08-28 Goldwell Gmbh Agent et procédé de nettoyage des cheveux humains et utilisation d'agent à cet effet.
US6066313A (en) * 1997-08-27 2000-05-23 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Cosmetic compositions
WO1999037689A1 (fr) * 1998-01-21 1999-07-29 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Polymere obtenu par microsuspension renfermant des groupes acide
WO1999037688A1 (fr) * 1998-01-21 1999-07-29 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Polymeres greffes obtenus par microsuspension et leur procede de production
EP4237457A1 (fr) * 2020-10-28 2023-09-06 Dow Silicones Corporation Copolymère de (méth)acrylate de silicone et ses procédés de préparation et d'utilisation dans des compositions de soins personnels

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