KR20020030141A - Cosmetic material containing Padina Pavonica extract - Google Patents
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
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Abstract
Description
본 발명은 피부의 탄력 증진 효과와 자극 완화 효과가 있는 갈조류 추출물을 함유하는 화장료에 관한 것으로서, 보다 상세하게는 파디나파보니카 추출물의 글루코스 아미노글루칸 합성 촉진 효과에 의한 진피층 및 표피층의 피부 개선 및 자극 완화 그리고 프리라디컬 예방에 큰 효과가 있는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic comprising a brown algae extract having an elasticity enhancing effect and a stimulating alleviating effect of the skin, and more particularly, skin improvement and stimulation of the dermal and epidermal layers by the glucose aminoglucan synthesis promoting effect of the padinapabonica extract. It relates to a cosmetic composition having a great effect on the relief and prevention of free radicals.
사람의 피부는 크게 외피층, 진피층, 그리고 피하조직으로 구성되어 있다. 그 중 진피 내의 주요한 세포인 섬유 아세포는 콜라겐, 엘라스틴, 또는 글루코스 아미노글루칸 등의 합성 및 분해 기능을 담당하는데, 이는 자외선에 의한 광노화, 프리라디컬에 의한 영향, 세포활성 감소 등의 원인으로 인해 그 증식 활성이 저하되므로 나이가 들어감에 따라 그 대사기능은 점차 떨어지게 된다. 더욱이 콜라겐 등의 구조는 턴-오버가 매우 길어 가교의 형성 등 여러 가지 수식, 변성을 받음으로써 탄력성의 저하 등 주름의 발생에 연관된 변화를 일으키기도 한다.Human skin is largely composed of the cortex, dermis and subcutaneous tissue. Among them, fibroblasts, the main cells in the dermis, are responsible for the synthesis and degradation of collagen, elastin, or glucose aminoglucan. As the proliferative activity decreases, the metabolic function gradually decreases with age. In addition, the structure of collagen and the like has a long turn-over, and thus undergoes various modifications and modifications, such as the formation of crosslinks, thereby causing changes related to the occurrence of wrinkles such as a decrease in elasticity.
최근 피부의 탄력 증진 및 주름 예방 등에 대한 관심이 커지면서 이에 효과적인 물질들에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되어 왔는데, 대표적인 것이 레티노이드와 알파하이드록시 애시드(AHA), 베타하이드록시 애시드(BHA) 등의 하이드록시 애시드(HA) 등이다.Recently, as interest in increasing skin elasticity and preventing wrinkles has increased, studies on effective materials have been actively conducted. Representatives such as hydroxy acid such as retinoid, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) (HA) and the like.
하이드록시 애시드 및 레티노이드는 광 손상 또는 자연적으로 노화된 피부의 외관상 개선, 피부 미백, 주름 개선 등의 효과를 나타내는 것으로 입증되었다.Hydroxy acids and retinoids have been shown to have the effect of improving the appearance of light damage or naturally aged skin, skin whitening, wrinkle improvement and the like.
미국 특허 US 5939457호에서는 주름을 개선하고자 하이드록시 애시드를 이용한 방법이 공개되어 있고 US 5889054호에서는 피부의 개선 특히 주름 개선을 목적으로 베타하이드록시 애시드를 이용했음을 기술하고 있으며 US RE36068호에서는 광노화에 의한 피부조직을 개선하기 위해 레티노이드를 사용하여 효과를 나타냈음을 밝히고 있다.US Pat. No. 5,939,457 discloses a method using hydroxy acid to improve wrinkles, US Pat. No. 58,890,54 describes that beta hydroxy acid is used for skin improvement, in particular, for wrinkle improvement. The use of retinoids to improve skin tissue has been shown to be effective.
그럼에도 불구하고, 널리 알려진 바와 같이 상기 물질들은 상당한 효과를 얻기 위해서는 일정량 이상의 농도를 유지해야 하는데 이러한 고농도로 사용할 경우 피부에 대한 자극이 가장 큰 문제점으로 대두되었으며, 이에 따라 본래의 효능을 유지하면서도 자극을 줄일 수 있는 보완 방안이 연구되고 있다. 이와 관련, 미국특허 제5516793호에서는 하이드록시 애시드와 레티노이드를 포함하는 다양한 국부적 성분에 의해 야기되는 자극을 개선시키기 위한 아스코르빈산의 용도가 공개되어 있고 유럽 특허 제0631722호에는 글리콜산을 사용하여 레티놀에 의한 피부자극을 감소시키는 것이 개시되어 있다.Nevertheless, as is well known, the substances have to maintain a certain amount or more in order to obtain a significant effect, and when used at such high concentrations, the irritation to the skin has emerged as the biggest problem. Complementary measures to reduce this are being studied. In this regard, US Pat. No. 55,16793 discloses the use of ascorbic acid to ameliorate the stimulus caused by various local ingredients, including hydroxy acid and retinoids, and European Patent No. 0631722 employs retinol using glycolic acid. It is disclosed to reduce skin irritation by.
기타 천연 추출물들에 대한 연구도 활발히 이루어지고 있는데, 레티노이드와 하이드록시 애시드의 자극을 완화시킬 수 있는 천연 식물 추출물들에 대한 방법이 제시되고 있으며, 직접 안티 링클(anti-wrinkle) 효능을 갖는 원료들에 대한 탐구도 많이 진행되어 미국 특허 US 5869540호에서는 연령 증가에 따른 피부의 개선을 목적으로 허브 추출물을 사용하여 발명된 기술이 소개되기도 하였다.Other natural extracts are being actively researched, and methods for natural plant extracts that can alleviate the stimulation of retinoids and hydroxy acids have been proposed, and raw materials having direct anti-wrinkle efficacy In search of a lot of the US patent US Pat. No. 58,69,540, the invention of using the herbal extract for the purpose of improving the skin with increasing age was introduced.
그러나, 식물 추출물의 경우 아직까지 효능에 있어서 확실히 입증되지 않거나 효과가 나타난다고 하더라도 미약한 수준에 그치는 경우가 많으며, 이에 따라 피부에 자극이 없으면서도 효과가 높은 새로운 물질의 개발이 요구되고 있다.However, in the case of plant extracts, even if the effect is not yet clearly demonstrated or effective, it is often limited to a weak level. Accordingly, there is a demand for the development of a new substance having a high effect without irritation to the skin.
본 발명은 상기와 같은 종래 기술의 문제점을 해결하기 위한 것으로서 글루코스 아미노글루칸 합성을 촉진하여 피부의 탄력증진과 주름개선을 촉진할 수 있는 동시에 피부에 부작용이 없는 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것을 목적으로 한다.The present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art as described above to promote glucose aminoglucan synthesis to promote skin elasticity and wrinkle improvement and to provide a cosmetic composition having no side effects on the skin.
상기한 목적을 달성하기 위해 본 발명에서는 갈조류인 파디나파보니카를 액상 파라핀으로 추출한 추출물을 함유한 화장료 조성물을 제공한다.In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing an extract extracted with the liquid paraffin of the brown alga padinapabonica.
피부 내 결합조직에는 단백질 글루칸(Proteoglucan)이 풍부하게 있는데 이것은 다당류 단위와 단백질 단위로 구성된다. 그리고 여기에서 폴리 음이온들이 물이나 양이온들과 결합하여 세포간지질을 형성함으로써, 단백질 글루칸들이 피부 수분을 유지시켜 준다. 즉, 상당량의 수분을 매트릭스로 끌어들여 피부의 기능적 성질과 구조를 유지시켜 주게 된다.The connective tissue in the skin is rich in protein glucan, which consists of polysaccharide units and protein units. And here, poly anions combine with water or cations to form intercellular lipids, so that protein glucans maintain skin moisture. That is, a significant amount of moisture is drawn into the matrix to maintain the skin's functional properties and structure.
또한 단백질 글루칸은 관절 및 기계적 변형을 받기 쉬운 그 밖의 구조의 점성과 탄성을 결정하는데 중요한 역할을 하는데, 단백질 글루칸의 다당류 사슬인 글루코스 아미노글루칸은 아미노 당(Amino Sugar)의 유도체인 글루코사민 또는 갈락토사민의 어느 한가지를 함유하는 이당류 반복 단위로 구성된다.Protein glucan also plays an important role in determining the viscosity and elasticity of joints and other structures susceptible to mechanical deformation. Glucose aminoglucan, the polysaccharide chain of protein glucan, is a glucosamine or galactosamine derivative of the amino sugar. It consists of a disaccharide repeat unit containing any one of.
글루코스 아미노글루칸은 피부연결조직의 구성성분으로서 양이 많을 때는 피부를 탄력적으로 당겨 주며, 더 많을 땐 프리라디컬과 유해환경으로부터의 자극을 막는다. 주요한 종류로서 히아루론산(Hyaluronate), 콘드로이틴 설페이트(Condroitin sulfate), 케라탄 설페이트(Keratan sulfate), 헤파란 설페이트(Heparan sulfate), 헤파린(Heparin) 등이 있다.Glucose aminoglucan is a constituent of skin connective tissue, and when it is high in quantity, it pulls the skin elastically, and in more, it prevents free radicals and irritation from harmful environment. Major types include hyaluronate, chondroitin sulfate, keratan sulfate, heparan sulfate, heparin, and the like.
파디나파보니카는 갈조류에 속하는데, 이것은 칼슘 이온을 고정시킬 수 있는 세포 외부의 매트릭스로부터 만들어진 맥석(gangue)으로 보호되도록 코팅되어 있으며 매트릭스 내에 고정된 칼슘이 각질층을 보호하는 역할을 한다. 이 매트릭스는 피부에 중요한 조직인 글루코스 아미노글루칸의 기능과 조성을 가진 글루시드로 만들어졌다.Padinapabonica belongs to the brown algae, which is coated to be protected by a gangue made from an extracellular matrix that can immobilize calcium ions, and calcium immobilized within the matrix protects the stratum corneum. This matrix is made of glued seed with the function and composition of glucose aminoglucan, an important tissue for skin.
본 발명자는 in-vitro 실험을 통해 글루코스 아미노글루칸 합성을 자극하는 섬유아세포가 파디나파보니카 추출물을 인식하여 합성되는 양을 증가시킬 수 있음과 피부 자극이 감소한다는 것을 검증하였고, 이를 피부에 직접 적용한 in-vivo 실험에서도 각질세포에서 흡수된 후 섬유아세포에 작용하여 같은 역할을 하는 것을 확인하여 파디나파보니카 추출물이 함유된 화장료 조성물이 피부의 주름을 개선시키고 탄력을 증진시키며 외부 환경의 자극으로부터 피부를 보호할 수 있다는 사실을 알 수 있었다.The inventors have verified that fibroblasts stimulating glucose aminoglucan synthesis can increase the amount synthesized by recognizing padinapabonica extract and reduce skin irritation through in-vitro experiments, and applied it directly to the skin. In the in-vivo experiment, it was confirmed that the keratinocytes are absorbed by keratinocytes and act on the fibroblasts, so that the cosmetic composition containing padinapabonica extract improves wrinkles, promotes elasticity, and protects the skin from stimulation of the external environment. I could see that it can protect.
본 발명에 사용되는 파디나파보니카 추출물은 시판되는 제품으로 획득될 수 있으며 그 예로서 프랑스 ALBAN MULLER사 제품인 HPS-3를 들 수 있다.Padinapabonica extract used in the present invention can be obtained as a commercially available product, for example, HPS-3 manufactured by ALBAN MULLER company in France.
파디나파보니카 추출물은 화장료 중에서 로션, 크림, 에센스, 선스크린제, 페이셜팩 이외 기타 유상 첨가가 가능한 제품에 적용 가능하며, 그 함량이 0.1% 이하의 농도일 때에는 가시적인 효과를 기대할 수 없고 20% 이상의 농도에서는 함량의 증가에 비례하여 효과의 증가가 나타나지 않는 것으로 밝혀졌다. 따라서 경제성과 효과를 함께 고려할 때 파디나파보니카 추출물의 함량은 0.1 ~ 20.0 중량%가 바람직하다.Padinapabonica extract can be applied to cosmetics that can be added to lotions, creams, essences, sunscreens, facial packs and other oils. When the content is less than 0.1%, no visible effect is expected At concentrations above%, no increase in effect was found to be proportional to the increase in content. Therefore, in consideration of economics and effects, the content of the padinapabonica extract is preferably 0.1 to 20.0% by weight.
이하 실시예 및 비교예에 의해서 본 발명을 구체적으로 설명한다. 다만, 아래 실시예에 의해서 본 발명의 범위가 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited by the following examples.
〈실시예 및 비교예〉<Example and Comparative Example>
아래 표 1에 기재된 바와 같은 성분 및 성분비를 사용하여 화장료 조성물을 제조하였다.A cosmetic composition was prepared using the components and the component ratios as described in Table 1 below.
표 1)Table 1
1. 파디나파보니카 추출물에 의한 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성 증가 실험1. Increased glucose aminoglucan (GAGs) synthesis by padinapabonica extract
파디나파보니카 추출물 5%가 함유된 화장료 용액과 함유되지 않은 화장료 용액으로 각각 처리한 조직에서 검취된 세포들을 세포층의 밀도가 어느 정도 높아질 때까지 증식시키고 트립신으로 처리한 후 셀 컬처를 3, 4차례 실시하는 과정을 몇 차례 반복하여 필요한 샘플을 얻어 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs)의 합성 증가 측정 실험에 사용하였다. 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs)의 합성은 블리스칸 방법으로 측정되었으며 이 방법은 용제에 용해시킨 후 원심분리하여 얻어진 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs)의 특정한 컬러 콤플렉스의 흡광도를 측정하는 방법이며 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs)의 양은 ㎍/㎖로 표시된다.In the tissues treated with the cosmetic solution containing 5% of padinapabonica extract and the cosmetic solution containing no cosmetic solution, the cells were grown until the density of the cell layer was increased to some extent and treated with trypsin. The procedure was repeated several times to obtain the required samples and to use them in experiments to increase the synthesis of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs). Synthesis of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) was determined by the Bliskan method, which measures the absorbance of specific color complexes of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) obtained by dissolving in a solvent and centrifuging. Glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) The amount of is expressed in μg / ml.
표 2) 파디나파보니카 추출물에 의한 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성 증가량(㎍/㎖)Table 2) Synthesis of Glucose Aminoglucans (GAGs) by Padinapabonica Extract (μg / ml)
상기 실험 결과로 파디나파보니카 추출물이 함유된 화장료로 처리한 배양 세포 시료가 비교 시료에 비해 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성을 크게 촉진시킨다는 것을 알 수 있고 이것은 곧 피부 조직의 탄력증진과 주름개선의 효과를 가져오게 된다.As a result of the experiment, it can be seen that the cultured cell sample treated with the cosmetic containing Padinapabonica extract greatly promoted the synthesis of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) compared to the comparative samples, which is used to improve skin tissue elasticity and improve wrinkles. Will have an effect.
2. 섬유아세포의 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성에 미치는 각질세포의 영향2. Effect of keratinocytes on the synthesis of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) in fibroblasts
사람 피부 샘플을 1㎜ 두께, 4㎟ 넓이로 채취하여 전 처리한 후 진피층에서 섬유아세포를 분리하는 한편, 표피층에서는 각질세포를 분리하여 각각 파디나파보니카 추출물 5% 함유 화장료 용액으로 처리한 것과 처리하지 않은 것을 인큐베이션시키고 각질세포의 성장요소를 제거한 후 3회 헹군다. 이 과정에서 파디나파보니카 추출물로 처리한 시료에서는 파디나파보니카 추출물도 함께 제거한다. 이렇게 처리하여 다시 인큐베이션시킨 배양 시료의 상등액을 진피층에서 분리한 섬유아세포에 가하여 상등액의 함량에 따른 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성의 증가를 점검하였다.Human skin samples were collected 1 mm thick and 4 mm wide, pretreated and separated from the fibroblasts from the dermal layer, while keratinocytes were separated from the epidermal layer and treated with a cosmetic solution containing 5% Padinapabonica extract, respectively. Incubate what is not done and rinse three times after removing the growth factor of keratinocytes. In this process, the padinapabonica extract is also removed from the sample treated with the padinapabonica extract. The supernatant of the culture sample thus incubated and re-incubated was added to fibroblasts isolated from the dermal layer, and the increase in the synthesis of glucose aminoglucan (GAGs) according to the content of the supernatant was examined.
표 3) 배양된 각질세포(케라티노사이트) 상등액 함량에 의한 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs) 합성 증가량(㎍/㎖)Table 3) Glucose Aminoglucan (GAGs) Synthesis Increase by the Cultured Keratinocyte Supernatant Content (µg / ml)
상기 실험 결과로 파디나파보니카 추출물로 처리된 각질세포가 섬유아세포에 의한 글루코스 아미노글루칸(GAGs)의 합성을 촉진한다는 사실을 알 수 있고 이것은 표피와 진피 사이에 세포간 커뮤니케이션이 이루어진다고 볼 수 있다. 즉 매우 효과적인 피부 노화방지 성분이라고 할 수 있다.The experimental results show that keratinocytes treated with Padinapabonica extract promote the synthesis of glucose aminoglucans (GAGs) by fibroblasts, which indicates that intercellular communication between the epidermis and the dermis. . That is a very effective skin anti-aging ingredient.
3. 파디나파보니카 추출물에 의한 자극 완화 실험 (패치 실험)3. Stimulation Relief Experiment with Padinapabonica Extract (Patch Experiment)
피부 자극 완화 정도를 확인하기 위해 여성 실험자 20명을 상대로 상박부 안쪽에 실시예 2 처방과 비교예 2 처방 시료를 가지고 패치 테스트를 적용한 후 24시간 후에 자극 정도를 평가하였다. 그 결과는 아래 표 4)에 나타내었다.In order to confirm the degree of skin irritation, 20 female experimenters evaluated the degree of stimulation 24 hours after applying the patch test with the Example 2 prescription and the Comparative Example 2 prescription sample inside the upper arm. The results are shown in Table 4 below.
표 4)Table 4
패치테스트에서는 자극원인 물질로서 AHA의 일종인 글리콜릭 애시드를 사용하였고 파디나파보니카 추출물이 글리콜릭 애시드에 의한 자극을 얼마나 완화시키는지 확인한 결과 비교예 2 처방에서는 평균치로 약간 심한 자극이 나타났으나 실시예 2 처방에서는 약한 자극이 나타나 자극이 현저히 감소함을 볼 수 있다.In the patch test, glycolic acid, a type of AHA, was used as a stimulating agent, and it was confirmed that the padinapabonica extract mitigates the stimulation caused by glycolic acid. In Example 2, the mild stimulus appeared and the stimulus was markedly reduced.
본 발명자는 파디나파보니카 추출물이 글루코스 아미노글루칸 합성을 자극하는 섬유아세포에 작용하여 합성되는 양을 증가시킬 수 있음과 피부 자극이 감소한다는 것을 검증하였고, 나아가 각질세포에서 흡수된 후 섬유아세포로 작용하여 같은 역할을 하는 것을 확인하였으며, 이에 따라 파디나파보니카 추출물을 함유한 본 발명의 화장료 조성물은 피부의 주름을 개선시키고 탄력을 증진시키며 외부 환경의 자극으로부터 피부를 보호할 수 있는 효과를 가져온다.The present inventors have verified that padinapabonica extract can increase the amount synthesized by acting on fibroblasts that stimulate glucose aminoglucan synthesis and decreases skin irritation, and further acts as a fibroblast after absorption from keratinocytes. It has been confirmed that to play the same role, according to the cosmetic composition of the present invention containing the Padina Pabonica extract has the effect of improving the wrinkles of the skin, improve the elasticity and protect the skin from stimulation of the external environment.
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