FR3013965A1 - COSMETIC USE OF AT LEAST ONE DERIVATIVE OF THE CONDENSATION OF FATTY ACIDS AND ESTERIFIED DIBASIC AMINO ACIDS AS A DESQUAMANT AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and esterified dibasic amino acids, corresponding to the formula: as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal. The present invention more particularly relates to the cosmetic use of at least lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or or scalp, and / or stimulate epidermal renewal.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids, corresponding to the formula: The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and esterified dibasic amino acids, corresponding to the formula: preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal. For the purposes of the invention, "skin" is understood to mean the skin and the semimuqueuses (lips). Flaking is a natural phenomenon due to the fact that the epidermis, which constitutes the upper layer of the skin and the scalp, is in constant regeneration. The epidermis consists of several layers of cells, the deepest of which is the basal layer of undifferentiated cells. Over time, these cells will differentiate and migrate to the surface of the epidermis by constituting the different bases of it, to form on the surface of the epidermis corneocytes which are dead cells that eliminate by desquamation. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. It is the perpetual renewal of the skin. Forced removal of the stratum corneum accelerates the renewal and helps to fight against aging. At the same time these cells continue their differentiation whose last stage is the corneocyte. It is in fact dead cells which constitute the last layer of the epidermis, ie the outermost layer still called stratum corneum. It is known that the desquamation process may be influenced by exogenous factors (eg UV radiation, pollution, allergenic agents, pathogens), and / or endogenous (eg hormonal changes, age ...) and lead in particular to a slowdown epidermal renewal and therefore aging of the skin, and / or thickening of the horny layer such as the formation of callosities, or unsightly signs such as dandruff, dander. This can also result in a change in the appearance of the skin, which can be manifested for example by: dry skin, the appearance of scales, the appearance of a dull complexion, dull and / or yellow, l appearance of rough skin and / or cracked skin, appearance of lines and wrinkles, appearance of age spots, and / or increased pore visibility. In general, desquamating agents act by facilitating the removal of dead cells located on the surface of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Among these cosmetic agents promoting desquamation, that is to say the removal of "dead" cells located on the surface of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, mention may in particular be made of α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as lactic acid or glycolic acid or phosphates (BHA) such as salicylic acid. These active ingredients induce, by topical application at concentrations of a few percentages, visible desquamation after a few days. Unfortunately, some desquamating compounds may have side effects, such as skin discomfort or irritation. There is therefore a need to find new pro-desquamating compounds that do not have the aforementioned side effects. The problem that the present invention seeks to solve is to provide new methods for maintaining or improving the appearance of the skin.

There is therefore the need to find ways to promote desquamation and / or stimulate epidermal renewal of the skin. The Applicant has just demonstrated that a derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified, corresponding to the formula, in particular lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, had exfoliating properties. It has indeed shown that lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or one of its salts, in particular lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, applied topically on a skin model in survival, decreased the cohesion of the stratum corneum and thus favored the desquamation process. and epidermal renewal of the skin. Lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof was known until now as a cationic surfactant forming part of a preservative system (W003 / 013454) intended for cosmetic compositions, and as an agent having an antimicrobial activity, especially in deodorant compositions. or oral care (W003 / 043593). The inventors have surprisingly discovered that lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or its salts, in particular lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, has an desquamating action on the skin and / or the scalp. The invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids, corresponding to the formula: Ni ER in which X - represents Br -, Cl-, or HSO 4-; R 1 represents a linear alkyl chain of a hydroxy acid or a saturated fatty acid of 8 to 14 carbon atoms bonded to the α-amino acid group through an amide bond; R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or aromatics; R 3 represents a group chosen from - NH 3, Nau n may be equal to 0 to 4, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal. Preferably, said derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids corresponding to the formula as defined above, is a derivative for which X - is Cl-, R1 is a 1-dodecanone group, R 2 is an ethyl group, R 3 is the group, and n is equal to 3. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids, corresponding to the formula: wherein X - represents Br -, Cl-, or HSO 4-; R 1 represents a linear alkyl chain of a hydroxy acid or a saturated fatty acid of 8 to 14 carbon atoms bonded to the α-amino acid group through an amide bond; R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or aromatics; R 3 represents a group chosen from - NH 3, Nau n being able to be equal to 0 to 4, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to promote desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / / or stimulate epidermal renewal. Preferably, said derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids corresponding to the formula as defined above, is a derivative for which X - is Cl-, R1 is a 1-dodecanone group, R 2 is an ethyl group, R 3 is the group - I! , and n is equal to 3. Thus, according to one of its preferred aspects, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as a cosmetic agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal. Lauroyl ethyl arginate is also known as ethyl lauroyl arginate or (S) -ethyl 2-amino-5- (diaminomethylideneamino) pentanoate, or lauram ide arginine ethyl ester. Preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of at least lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or one of its salts as an agent intended to promote desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or to stimulate the skin. epidermic renewal. Preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for the non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or the scalp intended to promote the desquamation of the skin and / or the scalp, and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin and / or the scalp of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of esterified dibasic amino acids as defined above, preferably from less lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, or a composition comprising it. More particularly, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or the scalp, and / or stimulating epidermal renewal, is characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin and / or the scalp, lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal. This process is particularly intended for the cosmetic treatment of aged skin, oily skin, dry skin and / or hyperpigmented skin. A derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly the lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, used cosmetically in a cosmetic composition, or in the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention for the non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or the scalp, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal is more particularly intended to improve one of the conditions selected from; to promote desquamation of the skin and / or the scalp, and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal, and in particular to prevent, attenuate and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, improve the appearance and / or the texture of the skin skin and / or scalp, and in particular to reduce dyschromia, improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion and / or smooth the skin, reduce surface irregularities and cutaneous microrelief, promote the action of cleaning and removal of dead cells on the surface of the body, promote the elimination of dandruff and / or fight against the formation of dandruff, improve the holding of makeup and / or improve the result of treatment of the skin with dyes stratum corneum such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). By "dyschromia" is meant all disorders in the distribution of cutaneous pigments, whether these pigments are too abundant (hyperchromic), or that they are absent (achromie). The improvement of the hold of makeup and / or skin coloring treatments with DHA results from the fact that the skin and / or the scalp can be prepared before the above-mentioned makeup and / or coloring (s) by application of a composition according to the invention, which will promote the result of a simultaneous or subsequent treatment with a makeup agent or a coloring agent. "Sign of skin aging" means any changes in the external appearance of the skin and / or its texture due to chronological or photo-induced aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, wilted skin, skin soft, thinned skin, lack of elasticity or tone of the skin. The pro-desquamating activity is indeed sought especially in the field of so-called anti-aging compositions, namely intended to fight against cutaneous signs due to aging and / or photoaging. A derivative of the condensation of dibasic fatty acids and amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly the lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, used according to the present invention can also find applications in the fight against the dyschromia or the attenuation of surface irregularities of the skin and the improvement of the cutaneous microrelief, the unclogging of the pores of the skin; the treatment of dry skin, and oily skin. For oily skin, it is often associated with a lack of desquamation, and a thick skin texture. The composition for carrying out the cosmetic treatment method for the non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or the scalp or the cosmetic use according to the invention is more particularly intended for the care and / or the cleaning of the skin , in particular to the care and / or cleaning of aged skin, or skin with a dull and / or rough complexion appearance.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for the care and / or the cleaning of aged skin. According to another mode, the composition is intended for the care and / or cleaning of skin with a dull and / or rough appearance. According to yet another embodiment, the composition is intended for the care and / or cleansing of oily skin. For the implementation of the invention, the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, may be applied to any area of the skin or its appendages, in particular of the face, décolleté, hands, or on the lips, in order to attenuate the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example, to smooth the surface and / or eliminate dead skin including lips. In the context of the present invention, a salt of lauroyl ethyl arginate is selected from an alkali or alkaline earth metal salt, an ammonium salt or a salt with an organic amine. More particularly, the salt of lauroyl ethyl arginate is chosen from the salts of bromide, hydrogen sulfate and chloride. Preferably, the salt of lauroyl ethyl arginate is the chloride salt, namely lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, or called ethyl-Nalauroyl-L-arginate HCl, ethyl-Nadodecanoyl-L-arginate HCL or Na-lauroyl-L arginine, ethyl monohydrochloride ester (CAS number 60372-77-2). Lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride is especially available in the form of a solution in glycerine (at 20% of active ingredient) under the trade name AMINAT-G® by the company Vedeqsa. According to another of its aspects, the invention more particularly relates to the cosmetic use of at least lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to promote the desquamation of skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal. The amount of the condensation derivative of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, usable according to the invention, of course deriving from the desired effect, must be in an amount effective to promote desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal. The amount of the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, usable according to the invention may range in particular from 0, 01 to 20% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.05 to 10% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of active ingredient, particularly from 0.1 to 1% by weight of active ingredient , particularly from 0.15 to 3%, and more particularly from 0.2 to 0.9% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, is present in an amount of 0.2 to 0.9% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, preferably lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, is present at a content of 0.4% by weight of active ingredient, or at a content of 0.8% by weight of active ingredient. relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment according to the invention, when the composition is a rinsed composition, the amount of the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids as defined above, more particularly of lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a of its salts, usable according to the invention may range in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.5 to 10% by weight of active material, particularly from 1 to 5%, and more particularly from 1.5 to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Finally, a derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, finds another application in the field of chemical peels. Peels are a well-known way to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and / or scalp. the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and wrinkles. They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods. The invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, in a peeling composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal, in a content of greater than 10% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 11% to 60% by weight of active material, in particular from 11% to 40% by weight of active material and even more preferably from 11% to 30% by weight of active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids as defined above is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin, comprising the steps of: a) applying topically to the skin a composition comprising at least one derivative of the condensation of dibasic fatty acids and amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof b) leave the composition in contact with the skin for a period of time conducive to the pro-desquamating action said derivative, which may be between 1 min and 24 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 6 hours, and preferably between 5 minutes and 30 minutes, and c) remove the composition by rinsing. Preferably, the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids as defined above is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride.

According to an alternative embodiment, the invention relates to a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or mucous membranes, comprising at least one step (i) of preparing the skin for peeling consisting in applying to zones to be treated at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of esterified dibasic amino acids as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof, at least one concentration adapted to cause the desquamation, and (ii) a subsequent step comprising applying at least one additional desquamating agent at a concentration lower than that resulting in desquamation. A step of removing the desquamating agent (s) by rinsing will then be performed. Advantageously, step (i) may be repeated with increasing concentrations derived from the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as defined above, more particularly lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof . These concentrations will be adapted by those skilled in the art depending on the desired effect and the number of applications envisaged, but will generally be less than 50% by weight of active ingredient. For example, it is possible to use a first concentration of approximately 10% by weight of active material, then one or more successive applications with a concentration of approximately 5% by weight of active material, then 5% or 3% by weight of active ingredient. relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids as defined above is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. This process is more particularly intended to prevent, attenuate, and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin, in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or smooth the skin, and / or unclog the pores of the skin.

The composition that can be used according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic and / or dermatological agent intended to improve the appearance and / or the comfort of the skin and / or the scalp. The compositions that may be used according to the invention may in particular comprise an adjuvant desquamating agent in combination with at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of esterified dibasic amino acids as defined above, said adjunctive desquamating agent being different from one derived from the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified according to the invention as defined above. The compositions that may be used according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "acceptable physiological medium" is meant a medium that is compatible with the materials and / or the keratin fibers of human beings, such as, for example, without limitation, the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or or the hair. This physiologically acceptable medium comprises water, optionally mixed or not with one or more organic solvents such as C 1 -C 8 alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyol ethers. The compositions that may be used according to the invention may be a cosmetic or dermatological composition and may therefore comprise a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, which may comprise oils, gums, waxes usually used in the field of application under consideration. As oils or waxes that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (vaseline oil), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil, apricot oil, rice bran ...) , animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (Purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone, dimethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), beeswax, carnauba wax, or paraffin wax, butter of shea, hydrogenated jojoba oil. To these oils can be added fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl, ...) and fatty acids (stearic acid, ....).

When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles. When the composition is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. The composition may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the field in question, such as surfactants, emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters UV, odor absorbers and dyestuffs, other cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules. As surfactants which may be used, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose® 63 by the company Gattefosse; PEG stearate derivatives, sugar derivatives. As hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

The composition may be in any conceivable galenic form. In particular, the composition may have the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solution; a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; a water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion; a suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; an aqueous lotion, oily or in the form of serum; a foam, a solid preparation for example stick; an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure or in the form of a patch. The composition that may be used according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a permanent composition (in particular a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or an anti-fall gel, an antiparasitic shampoo, these compositions may be rinsed compositions. It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition for the body or the face such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; a painkiller composition; a composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus. When the composition that can be used according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. It can be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a pad, or by spray, and can be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition for the chemical peel contains a continuous aqueous phase. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The following examples illustrate the present invention. Example 1: desquamating efficacy test (peeling effect evaluation test) An in vitro test was carried out to determine the effectiveness of lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride in solution in a ternary mixture (PEG400 / glycerol / water ) with respect to a composition comprising 30% glycolic acid and 70% water (positive control). A negative control (water) was also realized. Lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride is evaluated in various amounts in the ternary solution (25% by weight of PEG400 / 25% by weight of glycerol / 50% by weight of water) - 1% by weight of raw material of AMINAT-G® marketed by the company Vedeqsa is 0.2% by weight of lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride active ingredient or LAE HCI - 5% by weight of AMINAT-G® raw material marketed by the company Vedeqsa is 1 '/ 0 by weight of lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride or LAE HCl -10% by weight of AMINAT-G® raw material sold by Vedeqsa is 2% by weight of lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride or LAE HCI number of corneocytes released is expressed in protein concentration. After application of a composition comprising 1% by weight of lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride active ingredient, the protein concentration is about 226 μg / ml, whereas it is about 286 μg / ml for the composition comprising glycolic acid. Control Release - Control + LAE HCI ONLY (0.2% Active Ingredient) LAE HCI LAE HCI Protein (μg / mL) (Mixture (ONLY (1% ONLY (2% ternary) Glycolic Matter Material 30%) active) active) Episkin014 66 291 187 220 193 Episkin015 62 262 159 224 172 Episkin016 70 306 274 234 291 Average 286 207 226 219 This test shows that from 2% by weight of active ingredient, lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, at a usable rate in cosmetic compositions, has an important desquamating effectiveness which is close to that of the glycolic acid (AG) reference at 30%. Example 2: The exemplary compositions were prepared by standard methods known to those skilled in the art. The% are expressed in% by weight of raw material (unless otherwise indicated) relative to the total weight of the compositions. Rinse shampoo composition Ingredients% by weight lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, active ingredient (1) 0.8 SODIUM LAURYL ETHER SULFATE (2.0 OR 2.2 0E) 12 IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION (EMPICOL ESB 3 / FL3® marketed by Huntsman) COCOYL BETAINE IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION (EMPIGEN 6 BB / FL® marketed by Huntsman) HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE RETICLE A 0.15 EPICHLORHYDRIN, QUATERNIZED BY TRIMETHYLAMINE (POLYQUTA 400KC® marketed by KCI) MONOETHANOLAMIDE OF COPRAH ACIDS 1 2% (COMPERLAN 100® marketed by Cognis (BASF)) PERFUME qs Preservatives qs Colorants qs SODIUM CHLORIDE 2 2 METHYLPENTANE-2,4-DIOL 0.5 Agent of pH +/- 0.3 Qs pH 5, 3 DESIONIZED WATER Qs 100 The composition according to the invention once applied to the scalp, then subsequently rinsed, promotes desquamation of the scalp and / or stimulate its epidermal renewal. Skin care composition Ingredients% by weight Lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, active ingredient (1) 0.4 Hydroxypropyl cellulose 0.5 Ethanol 3 Water Qsp100 (1) AMINAT-G® (20% by weight of active ingredient) marketed by the company Vedegsa The composition according to the invention applied to the skin promotes desquamation of the skin and / or stimulates its epidermal renewal. Anti-Aging Skin Care Composition The process that has been used to prepare this composition is as follows; - In melter introduction of raw materials of B1, heating to 80/85 ° C, homogenization for 15 min at temperature. Addition of raw materials of B2, temperature 70 ° C. - Then in the tank of A introduction introduction, setting heated to 80 ° C, and homogenization. - Introduction of B with A (at 68 ° C), then maintain stirring 10 min Sampling: regular, isotropic fine emulsion - Introduction of C at 58 ° C, then cooling under vacuum to 25 ° C. Adding over the tank of E then homogenization. Ingredients% by weight Deionized water QS 100% GLYCERIN 8 PRESERVATIVES 1.05 B1 POLYETHYLENE STEARATE 1 GLYCOL (20 0E) GLYCERYL STEARATE PEG100 2.5 STEARATE CETYL ALCOHOL 0.5 STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.5 ISOPARAFFIN (6-8 MOLES 4 , 5 ISOBUTYLENE) HYDROGENEE BEESWAX 1.5 STEARIC ACID 3 B2 APRICOT 1 OIL DEODORIZED OIL (TRIGLYCERIDES OF OLEIC-LINOLEIC ACID 66/28) REFINED SHEA BUTTER 3 C CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 10 COPOLYMER 1, 7 ACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLAMIDO 2- METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DESODIUM IN 40% REVERSE EMULSION IN ISOPARAFFIN / WATER Lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride, in 0.4 E active ingredient CI) WATER 5 (1) AMINAT-G® (20% by weight active ingredient) marketed by the company Vedeqsa The composition according to the invention applied to the skin promotes desquamation of the skin, and attenuates the signs of skin aging.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids, corresponding to the formula: itZ3-- (CH in which X - represents Br -, Cl-, or HSO 4-; R1 represents a linear alkyl chain of a hydroxy acid or a saturated fatty acid of 8 to 14 carbon atoms bonded to the amino acid group by an amide bond; R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 18 carbon atoms carbon or aromatic; R 3 represents a group selected from - NH3, sit n may be equal to 0 to 4, as an agent for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal . 2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 of at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids, corresponding to the formula: in which X - represents Br -, Cl-, or HSO 4-; R1 represents a linear alkyl chain of a hydroxy acid or a saturated fatty acid of 8 to 14 carbon atoms bonded to the α-amino acid group by an amide bond R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 18 carbon atoms carbon or aromatic; R 3 represents a group chosen from -NH 3, n -N, which may be equal to 0 to 4, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, as an agent intended to promote desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic amino acids esterified as an agent for improving at least one of the conditions selected from: - to prevent, attenuate and / or fight against the signs of skin aging; - improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp; - improve the radiance and / or homogeneity of the complexion, and / or reduce dyschromias; - improving the surface appearance, in particular reducing the rough or cracked appearance of the skin and / or improving the grain and / or the softness of the skin; - smooth the skin's microrelief, in particular smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and / or smooth the skin; - reduce surface irregularities and cutaneous microrelief - promote the cleaning action and the elimination of dead cells on the surface of the body; - promote the elimination of dandruff and / or fight against the formation of dandruff; - fight against the imperfections of oily skin, in particular the shiny or shiny appearance of the skin; improve the appearance and / or decrease the visibility of the pores and / or improve the unclogging of the pores; - improve makeup hold; and / or - improve the treatment result of the skin with stratum corneum dyes such as dihydroxyacetone. 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said derivative of the fatty acid condensation and esterified dibasic amino acids is lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the lauroyl ethyl arginate salt is selected from bromide salts, hydrogen sulfate, and chloride. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said derivative of the fatty acid and dibasic esterified amino acid condensation is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. The use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the esterified dibasic fatty acid and fatty acid condensation derivative is from 0.01 to 20% by weight of active material, particularly from 0, From 5 to 10% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of active material, more particularly from 0.1 to 1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids is from 0.2 to 0.9% by weight of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the dibasic fatty acid and dibasic amino acid condensation derivative is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride in an amount of 0.2 to 0.9% by weight. of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition. 11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said derivative of fatty acid condensation and dibasic esterified amino acids is in combination with an adjunct desquamating agent. 12. A method of cosmetic treatment of the visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin, comprising the steps of: a) topically applying to the skin a composition comprising at least one derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and amino acids esterified dibasic compounds having the formula: wherein X - represents Br -, Cl-, or HSO 4-; R 1 represents a linear alkyl chain of a hydroxyl-saturated fatty acid or acid of 8 to 14 carbon atoms bonded to the α-amino acid group through an amide bond; R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or aromatics; R 3 represents a group chosen from -NH 3, wherein: 4, 11 tin may be equal to 0 to 4; b) leaving the composition in contact with the skin for a period of time favorable to the pro-desquamating action of said derivative, which may be between 1 minute and 24 hours, more particularly 5 minutes and 6 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 30 minutes, and c) remove the composition by rinsing. 13. The method of claim 12, characterized in that said derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and dibasic esterified amino acids is lauroyl ethyl arginate and / or a salt thereof. 14. Process according to claim 13, characterized in that said derivative of the condensation of fatty acids and of dibasic esterified amino acids is lauroyl ethyl arginate chloride. 15. Method according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that it is intended to prevent, attenuate, and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and to improve the appearance and / or the texture of the skin, in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or smooth the skin, and / or unclog the pores of the skin.