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WO2018123531A1 - Structure de fibres - Google Patents

Structure de fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018123531A1
WO2018123531A1 PCT/JP2017/044323 JP2017044323W WO2018123531A1 WO 2018123531 A1 WO2018123531 A1 WO 2018123531A1 JP 2017044323 W JP2017044323 W JP 2017044323W WO 2018123531 A1 WO2018123531 A1 WO 2018123531A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
side wall
color
yarn
ratio
fiber structure
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2017/044323
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
昌志 近田
聡 成子
弘至 土倉
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to JP2018516581A priority Critical patent/JPWO2018123531A1/ja
Publication of WO2018123531A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018123531A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D9/00—Open-work fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a fiber structure, and more particularly to a fiber structure in which the color visually recognized by the observer changes according to the position of the observer who views the fiber structure.
  • a fiber structure imparted with such a color effect for example, a knitted fabric imparted with a color effect that a visually recognized color varies depending on a viewing direction by shielding a color yarn bundle with a blind yarn (Patent Document 1).
  • Patent Document 2 a knitted fabric in which a three-dimensional color effect is imparted by using colored yarns as yarns constituting a chain knitting row on a ridge formed by a pile fabric and a chain knitting row.
  • the yarn is inserted with the same needle swing so that two yarns of different colors are bundled, and the blind yarn is inserted so as to cover the upper part thereof.
  • the blind yarn impedes the visibility of the other yarn, and only one of the yarns is visible, and when the knitted fabric is viewed from the other. Since the blind thread hinders the visibility of one thread and only the other thread is visually recognized, the color effect is such that when one thread and the other thread have different colors, the visible color varies depending on the viewing direction. Is demonstrated.
  • the conventional woven or knitted fabric disclosed in Patent Document 2 is a composite fabric in which the upper and the base are connected by a pile fabric, and the ridge portion is formed by the upper and the pile fabric formed by the chain stitch row.
  • JP 2012-97390 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2004-232109
  • the conventional fiber structure disclosed in Patent Document 1 differs in the insertion method of the blind yarn and the colored yarn bundle, so that the shielding effect of the colored yarn bundle varies depending on the place. Therefore, for example, when the position of the blind yarn is greatly biased to one of the two colored yarns, the intended shielding effect cannot be obtained. Since it is visually recognized, there is a problem that it is in a state of lack of unity and it is difficult to obtain a sufficient color effect.
  • Patent Literature 2 exhibits a color change between when viewed from directly above and when viewed from a certain angle, by using different colors for the top and the pile.
  • the color effect that the visible color is switched between when the knitted fabric is viewed from one side and when the knitted fabric is viewed from the other side is not exhibited.
  • the conventional fiber structure has a problem that it is difficult to exert a sufficient color effect, even if it is used for clothes, the aesthetic feeling and dynamic feeling imparted to the clothes are not always sufficient. Not something.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and the visibility of color is not greatly limited by the direction and angle of viewing the fiber structure, and the fiber structure can be observed even from a slightly distant place.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric that allows an observer to visually recognize the color effect of a unique striped pattern depending on the viewing direction.
  • the present inventor pays attention to the uneven shape on the surface of the fiber structure, and the ratio between the intervals between the protrusions, the dimensions of the protrusions, and the dimensions of the parts constituting the protrusions are suitable ratios. By making it into a relationship, it discovered that the outstanding color effect was exhibited stably, and came to complete this invention.
  • the fiber structure according to the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a plurality of ridges formed along one direction,
  • Each of the ridges is composed of a top part and two side wall parts located below the top part, one side wall part constituting each ridge part is provided substantially parallel to each other, and the other side wall part is also Provided substantially parallel to each other, and at least one of the top portion and the two side wall portions has a different color from the other two, Furthermore, at least some of the plurality of ridges are arranged so that a distance L4 between adjacent ridges is more than 2.5 mm and not more than 30 mm, and the ridges are arranged.
  • the width of the top portion in the adjacent direction of the portion is L1
  • the thickness of the top portion in the height direction of the ridge portion is L2
  • the height of the two side wall portions in the height direction is L3
  • the two side wall portions A fiber structure in which L1 to L5 are set so as to satisfy the following relationship, with L5 being the wall surface interval in the adjacent direction. See FIG. 3 for L1 to L5.
  • the ratio Ra in the above range, the color effect by the ridges is sufficiently exhibited. That is, when the woven fabric is viewed obliquely from above in the adjacent direction of the ridge, if the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ridge to be visually recognized is shielded by the adjacent ridge, and its side wall Since it becomes impossible to visually recognize the bottom part between the part and the protruding line part, the visually recognized color effect is lowered.
  • the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio of the top part and the side wall part with respect to the visual recognition area becomes small, so that an excellent color effect cannot be obtained. For example, as shown in FIG.
  • the top viewing area is A
  • the side wall viewing area is B
  • the viewing area other than the strip is C
  • the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9
  • the adjacent ridge shielding ratio Cr (A + B + C) / L4) is 4.2 or more, and when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition is performed.
  • the ratio Va is 0.75 or less.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the rate at which the side wall portion is visually recognized is too small compared to the top portion, so that the color change (color changeability) depending on the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect is obtained. I can't get it.
  • the ratio Rb is less than 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.9, the rate at which the side wall portion is visually recognized is too small compared to the top portion, so that the color change due to the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the yarn constituting the top portion is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portion, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion constitutes the side wall portion. Therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge portion, the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion is made smaller than the tension of the yarn constituting the side wall portion. For this reason, the color of the side wall is visually recognized from the gap at the top, and an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc By setting the ratio Rc in the above range, the color change depending on the viewing angle, that is, the color changeability becomes large, and the color effect of the side wall portion is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, when viewed from above (front), the top part covers the side wall part too much, and as a result, the color effect of the side wall part cannot be sufficiently obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is less than 0.4, the yarn constituting the top portion becomes very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portion, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion constitutes the side wall portion. Therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge, it is necessary to make the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion smaller than the tension of the yarn constituting the side wall portion. For this reason, the color of the side wall is visually recognized from the gap at the top, and an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is in the range of 0.4 to 1.2, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the excellent color effect is exhibited by satisfy
  • the fiber structure in combination with the above-described ratios for example, a position far away from the fiber structure, When observed from a position about 6 m away, when the fiber structure is viewed from the front, each apex can be visually recognized independently, and is disposed obliquely above the front of the fiber structure, that is, on the side wall.
  • the boundary line between the color arranged at the top and the color arranged at the side wall can be clearly seen, and the color of the top and the side wall as a striped pattern. It can be visually recognized. If the interval L4 is too small, even if the other ratio conditions are satisfied, the colors are mixed and observed like an iridescent color when viewed from a distant position.
  • the top portion and the two side wall portions may be formed of independent yarns.
  • At least one of the top portion and the two side wall portions may be formed of a thread having a different color from the other two.
  • a knitted fabric is preferable, and a warp knitted fabric is more preferable.
  • an insertion thread may be inserted into each of the ridges so as to connect the adjacent ridges to each other, and the insertion thread is preferably an elastic thread.
  • a yarn row composed of at least one yarn may be formed between the protruding portions, and the yarn row is preferably formed from a transparent yarn.
  • the interval L4 between the ridges is 2.6 mm or more in that the fiber structure can be visually recognized as a striped pattern, and the color effect of the fiber structure is sufficiently high. In consideration of the effect, it is more preferable that the distance L4 between the ridges is 2.6 mm to 20 mm.
  • the top portion and the two side wall portions constituting the ridge portion has a color different from the other two, and therefore the direction of viewing the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the color of the top and the two side walls is highly visible, so that an excellent color effect and color change are exhibited, and the adjacent ridges
  • each top can be independently viewed, and the fiber structure can be viewed obliquely above the front, that is, from an angle at which the side wall can be seen.
  • the boundary between the colors arranged on the top part and the side wall part is clearly visible and can be visually recognized as a striped pattern. Therefore, when the textile structure is used for clothes, the It can give an excellent aesthetic and dynamic feeling.
  • FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view in the direction of arrow AA in FIG. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the effect of this invention. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the Example which concerns on this invention. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the comparative example with respect to this invention.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagram showing details of the structure of the warp knitted fabric 1 according to the present embodiment
  • FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view in the direction of arrows AA in FIG.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 includes a base 2, a top 3, and two side walls 4, 5 formed on both sides of the top 3, along the knitting direction.
  • the ridge portion 6 is formed.
  • the top portion 3 is composed of two chain knitting rows 3a and 3b connected by a connecting yarn 3c, and the side walls 4 and 5 have loops 4a1 and 5a1 which will be described later connected to the two chain knitting rows 3a and 3b, respectively. It consists of chain braid rows 4a and 5a which are stopped. That is, the top portion 3 and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 are formed of independent yarns. Further, the base portion 2 includes chain knitting rows 2a and 2b in which the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are connected, and a chain knitting row 2e knitted between these chain knitting rows 2a and 2b.
  • the chain knitting rows 3 a and 3 b constituting the top portion 3 the chain knitting rows 4 a and 5 a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, and the chain knitting row 2 e constituting the base portion 2 are connected by a solid line and the top portion 3.
  • the yarn 3c is indicated by a broken line
  • the connecting yarn 2c of the base 2 is indicated by a dotted line
  • the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b of the base 2 are not shown.
  • the first color knitting yarn is formed on the two chain knitting rows 3 a and 3 b constituting the top portion 3, and the second color knitting is formed on the chain knitting row 4 a constituting the side wall portion 4.
  • a third knitting yarn is used for the yarn and the chain knitting row 5a of the side wall 5, and transparent knitting yarn is used for the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e and the connecting yarns 2c, 3c constituting the base portion 2.
  • the chain yarns 2a and 2b constituting the base portion 2 may use colored yarns having the same color as the chain yarn rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 to be connected to each other.
  • 3c may use color yarns of the same color as the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b constituting the top portion 3.
  • the knitting used for the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e of the base 2, the chain knitting rows 3a, 3b and the connecting yarn 3c of the top 3, and the chain knitting rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are used.
  • the yarn include polyester yarn, nylon yarn, filament yarn such as rayon yarn, and spun yarn.
  • the connection yarn 2c of the base portion 2 a highly transparent monofilament yarn made of polyester, thermoplastic elastomer, nylon or the like can be exemplified.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is a known double raschel knitting machine having a plurality of knitting needles, two rows of needle beds arranged opposite to each other, and a supply mechanism for supplying a predetermined yarn to the needle beds. Can be used to organize.
  • the two chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 are formed by the second and third color knitting yarns supplied by the supply mechanism. While knitting each, and knitting the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e constituting the base 2 with the transparent knitting yarn supplied by the supply mechanism, the space between the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e is along the wale direction. Are connected by a plurality of connecting yarns 2c.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 of this example is knitting the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5, the side facing the chain knitting row of the top 3 (the side facing the front needle bed).
  • the loops 4a1 and 5a1 are formed in the loop 3 and the loops 4a1 and 5a1 are inserted into the stitches of the chain braids 3a and 3b of the top 3, so that the chain braids 4a and 5a of the side walls 4 and 5 are connected to the chain of the top 3 While locked to the knitting rows 3a and 3b, the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are knitted into the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b of the base portion 2, so that the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b of the base portion 2 and the side walls The chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the portions 4 and 5 are connected to each other.
  • the base portion 2 and the top portion 3 are connected by the side wall portions 4 and 5, and the one-dimensional three-dimensional warp knitting in which the protruding portion 6 including the top portion 3 and the side wall portions 4 and 5 is formed on the base portion 2.
  • the ground is organized.
  • the ridge portion 6 includes a top portion 3 and side wall portions 4 and 5 each formed of a chain knitting row, and the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 are the chain knitting rows of the top portion 3. Since it is locked to 3a, 3b and is knitted in the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b of the base 2, the shape stability of each ridge 6 is higher than before.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 has a concavo-convex shape having, on one surface, three portions, that is, a ridge portion 6 constituted by a top portion 3 and two side wall portions 4 and 5 positioned below the top portion 3.
  • a ridge portion 6 constituted by a top portion 3 and two side wall portions 4 and 5 positioned below the top portion 3.
  • the viewer When viewed from the other side, the viewer can visually recognize the intended one or two colors in each direction when viewed from the other side, and stably displays a high color effect.
  • it is used for the clothes it is possible to give the clothes and the like a very good aesthetic and dynamic feeling.
  • the color of the top part 3 is the first color and the color of the two side wall parts 4 and 5 is the second color different from the top part 3, from the front of the surface of the warp knitted fabric 1, that is, the ridge part
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is the width of the top portion 3.
  • the two colors of the first color of the top portion 3 and the second color of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are visually recognized.
  • the second color of the side walls 4, 5 is visually recognized in addition to the first color of the top 3.
  • the top portion 3 is red and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 are blue
  • the width of the side walls 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top
  • only the red color of the top 3 is visually recognized.
  • the width of the side walls 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top 3
  • the blue color of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are visually recognized, and a striped pattern in which blue is arranged at both ends of red is observed.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is viewed with the angle changed in the width direction of the ridges 6, the blue color of the side wall parts 4 and 5 is visually recognized in addition to the red color of the top part 3.
  • the front surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 is obtained. That is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, when the width of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only one color of the top 3 is visible and the width of the side walls 4, 5 is Is larger than the width of the top portion 3, two colors of the top portion 3 and the side wall portion 4 and the side wall portion 5 are visually recognized.
  • the color of the top 3 and the one side wall 4 is visually recognized, but when the color of the top 3 and the one side wall 4 is the same color, this one color Only visible. Moreover, since the color of the said top part 3 and the color of the said other side wall part 5 are different colors when it sees from the other side wall part 5 side, two colors are visually recognized.
  • the front surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 surface that is, the ridge portion 6 is directly above.
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • only the red color of the top portion 3 is visually recognized
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top portion 3
  • the red color of the top part 3 and the one side wall part 4 and the blue color of the other side wall part 5 are visually recognized, and the other side wall part 5 is formed on one side of the thick red line formed by the top part 3 and the one side wall part 4. A blue line is placed.
  • the top 3 and the two side walls 4 and 5 have different colors
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 surface is viewed from the front, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, the side walls 4 and 5
  • the width is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • only one color of the top portion 3 is visually recognized.
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top portion 3, the color of the top portion 3 and the side wall portion 4. , 5 colors are visually recognized.
  • two colors of the color of the one side wall 4 are visible, and when viewed from the other side wall 5, In addition to the color, two colors of the other side wall 5 are visually recognized.
  • the top part 3 is always located in the upper part of the two side wall parts 4 and 5, and the length of the width direction of the top part 3 is also large, from one side wall part (for example, side wall part 4).
  • the shielding effect by the top 3 is stably exhibited, and thus the color of the other side wall (for example, the side wall 5) is not visually recognized.
  • the type is particularly limited as long as at least one of the top portion 3 and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 has a different color from the other portions as described above.
  • filament yarn, spun yarn, transparent yarn, elastic yarn and the like can be freely selected and used.
  • variety of the top part 3 is L1
  • the thickness of the top part 3 is L2
  • the height of the side wall parts 4 and 5 is L3
  • the adjacent convex part 6 Assuming that the interval between them is L4 and the width between the wall surfaces of the side wall parts 4 and 5 constituting one ridge 6 is L5, these dimensions are set to have the following relationship.
  • the ratio Ra within the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the color effect by the ridges 6 is sufficiently exhibited. That is, when the warp knitted fabric 1 is viewed from obliquely above in the adjacent direction of the ridges 6 and the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ridges 6 to be visually recognized are shielded by the adjacent ridges 6. Since it becomes impossible to visually recognize the connecting portions 2d between the side wall portions 4 and 5 and the ridge portions 6, the visually recognized color effect is lowered. On the other hand, when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio between the top 3 and the side walls 4 and 5 with respect to the visual recognition area becomes small, and thus an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Ra is in the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.76 or more.
  • the ratio Ra is greater than 7.9, the adjacent ridge shielding ratio Cr is 4.2 or more, and when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.75 or less. Become.
  • the ratio Ra is more preferably 0.9 to 4.2.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the rate at which the side wall parts 4 and 5 are visually recognized is too small compared to the top part 3, so that the color change (color changeability) depending on the viewing angle becomes poor and good. Color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rb is less than 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.9, the ratio at which the side wall parts 4 and 5 are visually recognized is too small compared to the top part 3, so that the color change depending on the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect is obtained. I can't.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion 3. Is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn constituting the side walls 4 and 5, and in order to form the dimensionally stable ridge 6, the tension of the yarn constituting the top 3 is set to the side wall.
  • the ratio Rc is in the above range, the color change depending on the viewing angle, that is, the color changeability becomes large, and the color effect of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows. In order to stably obtain excellent color change properties, the ratio Rc is more preferably 0.2 to 0.7.
  • the top 3 covers the side walls 4 and 5 too much when viewed from above (front), and as a result, the color effects of the side walls 4 and 5 are sufficient. Can not be obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is less than 0.4, the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is the side wall. Since the fineness of the yarn constituting the portions 4 and 5 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn constituting the portions 4 and 5, the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is set to the side wall portion 4 in order to form the dimensionally stable ridge 6.
  • the ratio Rd is more preferably 0.4 to 1.0.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the excellent color effect is exhibited by satisfy
  • the fiber structure is observed from the front when observed at a position away from the fiber structure.
  • each top can be independently seen, obliquely above the front of the fiber structure, that is, when the fiber structure is viewed from an angle at which the color arranged on the side wall can be seen,
  • the boundary line between the color arranged on the top part and the color arranged on the side wall part can be clearly seen, the color of the top part and the side wall part can be visually recognized as a striped pattern, and the fiber structure is used for clothes, etc. In combination with the above-mentioned excellent color effect, an excellent dynamic feeling can be given.
  • the fiber structure portion can be visually recognized as a striped pattern stably, and in order to obtain an excellent lively feeling, the interval L4 between the ridge portions is set. More preferably, it is 2.6 mm or more.
  • the width L5 between the distance between the two needle beds of the double raschel knitting machine, the runner length, the gauge number of the knitting machine, the tensile elastic modulus of the knitting yarn, the tension of the knitting yarn, the chain knitting row constituting each part It depends on the number of rows, the fineness of the yarn, and the expansion / contraction rate in the heat set, so that the color effect of the warp knitted fabric 1 is maximized, that is, these dimensions L1 to L5 satisfy the above relationship. Further, the distance between the needle beds, the runner length, the number of gauges of the knitting machine are appropriately set, or the tension at the time of knitting is appropriately adjusted.
  • the ratios Ra to Rd can be adjusted depending on the total fineness of the yarn.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the two chain stitch rows 3a and 3b constituting the top portion 3 and the connecting yarn 3c of the top portion 3 is related to the top width L1 and the top thickness L2.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the chain stitch row 4a constituting the side wall portion 4 and the yarn used for the chain stitch row 5a of the side wall portion 5 are related to the height L3 of the side wall portion.
  • the above four yarns are preferably all yarns having a total fineness of 80 to 500 dtex, and particularly 120 to 300 dtex from the viewpoint of the operational stability of the knitting machine during knitting and the dimensional stability of the ridge 6. It is preferable.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the connecting portion 2d formed between the protruding portions 6, that is, the yarn used for the chain knitting row 2e and the connecting yarn 2c is related to the interval L4 between the protruding portions 6,
  • the total fineness of the connecting yarn 2c is preferably 50 to 800 dtex, and particularly preferably 100 dtex from the viewpoint of the operational stability of the knitting machine during knitting and the dimensional stability of the ridges 6, and the yarn used for the chain knitting row 2e
  • the total fineness is preferably from 100 to 800 dtex, and particularly preferably from 300 to 600 dtex.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 obtained was heat-treated for 1 minute at a temperature of 180 ° C. with an overfeed rate in the warp direction of 0% using a pin tenter, and at that time, it was inserted with the pin tenter. It is also possible to make adjustments so as to satisfy the above-mentioned relationship also by performing a tentering operation. Of these, ⁇ 2.5 to + 22.5% is preferable as the expansion / contraction ratio in the set (+: draw out, ⁇ : draw in).
  • Example 1-6 and Comparative Example 1-10 the warp knitted fabric shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 was knitted by the above-described knitting method using a double raschel knitting machine, and the obtained warp knitted fabric was described above. It heat-processed with the pin tenter. Further, the knitting yarns used for the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b constituting the base portion 2, the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b and the connecting yarn 3c constituting the top portion 3, and the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, respectively. Polyester multifilament yarn was used.
  • the chain knitting rows 2a and 4a are set to the first color
  • the chain knitting rows 2b and 5a are set to the second color
  • the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b and the connecting yarn 3c are set to the third color.
  • the side wall 4 and the side wall 5 have different colors.
  • a transparent polyester monofilament is used as the knitting yarn of the chain knitting row 2e constituting the base portion 2
  • a transparent polyester elastomer yarn is used as the connecting yarn 2d constituting the base portion 2 to make the base portion 2 transparent. did.
  • Other conditions in the double raschel knitting machine, the fineness of the yarn, and the set shrinkage of the knitted fabric were as shown in FIGS.
  • line part 6 are the front of the warp knitted fabric 1 surface.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is placed on the microscope stage (table) in an unweighted state so that the surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 is on the upper side, and the knitting that constitutes the top portion 3 with respect to the width L1 of the top portion 3.
  • One end of the single yarn was defined as an end, and the length (distance) to one end of the single knitting yarn serving as the end of the other top 3 of the top 3 was measured.
  • line part 6 from one end of the knitting yarn single yarn used as the end of the side wall part 4, one end of the knitting yarn single yarn used as the end of the side wall part 5 The length until was measured by the same method as L1.
  • the thickness L2 of the top portion 3 and the height L3 of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are determined by cutting the knitting yarns 2d and 2e located between the ridge portions 6 and randomly taking out five ridge portions 6 to be measured. No load is applied on the stage of the digital microscope VHX / 2000 made by Hitachi by tilting the surface of the ridge 6 by 90 ° toward the side of the ridge 6 so that the side wall 4 or the side wall 5 is directly above. The sample was placed in a state, photographed at a lens magnification of 50 times using the microscope, the corresponding length was measured for each of the obtained images, and the obtained five measured values were averaged and calculated.
  • the thickness L2 of the top portion 3 is such that the chain knitting row 3a or 3b constituting the top portion 3 has a length in the thickness direction of the top portion 3 so that the length is maximized.
  • the length (distance) to one end of the single knitting yarn was measured.
  • the height L3 of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is such that the chain knitting row 2a constituting the base portion 2 and the chain knitting row 4a constituting the side wall portion 4 or the chain knitting row 2b constituting the base portion 2 and the side wall portion 5 are determined.
  • the woven or knitted fabric sampled at 20 cm ⁇ 20 cm is pasted on the observation plate specified in JIS L 1059 so that the length direction of the ridges is perpendicular to the ground, and 6 m away from the fiber structure.
  • the color located on the upper surface of each ridge is visually recognized independently so that a boundary line is formed between the ridges.
  • the side surface of the ridge portion can be visually recognized from an angle of 30 ° with respect to the front surface of the fiber structure, the colors located on the upper surface and wall surface of each ridge portion are between the ridge portions. It was determined whether or not the boundary line by the concave portion can be visually recognized independently.
  • the observation illumination device uses overhead lighting specified in JIS L 1059, the color illumination lamp uses four JIS C-7601 FL40 S ⁇ W, and the inside of the reflector is painted with white enamel. And the illuminance was 300 lux. The color of the surface of the observation plate was the same as b2 of the contamination gray scale 2 defined in JIS L 0805.
  • the visual recognition ratio Va when viewed from the X direction shown in FIG. The color effect is fully demonstrated.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more, and is rich in color changeability when the viewing angle is changed.
  • the interval L4 between adjacent ridges is arranged to be greater than 2.5 mm and not more than 30 mm, when the fiber structure is observed by the above evaluation method, the boundary line due to the recesses can be visually recognized.
  • the colors arranged on the side wall portions can be visually recognized as independent stripe patterns, and when the fiber structure is used for clothes or the like, an excellent color effect and lively feeling are exhibited.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 1 has a small visual recognition ratio Vb, that is, the visual recognition ratio of the top 3 is large. Therefore, when the thickness L2 of the top 3 is further increased, the color change depending on the viewing angle is not sufficiently exhibited. . Further, the ratio Rd is the upper limit, and if the width L1 of the top part 3 is further increased, the side walls 4 and 5 are covered too much, so that the color effect of the side walls 4 and 5 cannot be sufficiently obtained.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is the largest, and the thickness (L2 + L3) of the ridges 6 with respect to the interval L4, that is, the ratio Ra is the smallest. Becomes the smallest.
  • the ratio Rb is small, the visual recognition ratio Vb becomes a large thing.
  • the ratio Rc is small, the color effect of the side wall parts 4 and 5 with respect to the top part 3 is higher than that of the knitted fabric of Example 1, and the color changeability depending on the viewing direction is high.
  • the ratio Rd is small and the side wall portions 4 and 5 are not sufficiently covered with the top portion 3, the top portion 3 and the side wall portions 4 and 5 can be visually recognized from directly above.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 3 has a large ratio Ra, the visual recognition ratio of the ridges 6 with respect to the interval L4 of the ridges 6 is large, and the color effect of the ridges 6 is high. Moreover, since ratio Rc is small, the visual recognition rate of the side wall parts 4 and 5 when it sees from diagonally upward of the adjacent direction of the protruding item
  • the knitted fabric of Example 4 has a smaller interval L4 and a larger ratio Ra than the knitted fabric of Example 2, so that a greater color effect can be obtained by the ridges 6, and the knitted fabric of Examples 1 and 3 can be obtained. Moreover, the boundary line of each protruding item
  • line part 6 can be visually recognized clearly, and when it uses for clothes etc., the more excellent feeling of dynamism is obtained.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 5 has a large ratio Ra, so that the visual recognition ratio of the ridges 6 with respect to the interval L4 of the ridges 6 is large, and the color effect of the ridges 6 is high. high.
  • ratio Rc is small, the visual recognition rate of the side wall parts 4 and 5 when it sees from diagonally upward of the adjacent direction of the protruding item
  • line part 6 is high.
  • the ratio Rb is larger than the knitted fabrics of Examples 1, 2, 4, and 6, that is, the protruding portion 6 is thick, the shape stability is excellent, and a more stable color effect is exhibited when used for clothes or the like. To do.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 6 has a larger interval L4 than the knitted fabric of Example 3, and the boundary line between the ridges 6 can be more clearly seen. Is obtained. Moreover, since the space
  • the width L1 of the top portion 3, the spacing L4 of the ridge portions 6, the width L5 of the side wall portions 4 and 5, and the top portion 3 are also performed in the same manner as in the first to third embodiments. The thickness L2 and the height L3 of the side walls 4 and 5 were measured.
  • the visual recognition ratio between the ridges 6 increases, that is, the visual recognition ratio Va is less than 0.75.
  • the color effect of the entire knitted fabric fades.
  • the adjacent ridge part shielding ratio Cr exceeds 4.2. Is shielded by the adjacent ridges 6 and the color effect is reduced.
  • the ridges 6 that are dimensionally stable cannot be created because the ridges 6 are elongated.
  • the yarn at the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5 (the fineness of the yarn at the top 3 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5). Therefore, the color of the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 can be seen from the gap between the yarns constituting the top portion 3, and the color effect is reduced.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is less than 0.05 in the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6, when viewed from an oblique direction, the visual recognition ratio of the color of the top portion 3 is large, and the color effect of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is sufficient. Is not demonstrated.
  • the top part covers the wall part too much, and the visual recognition ratio Vb is less than 0.05. Therefore, the visual recognition ratio of the color of the top part 3 is large, and the side wall parts 4, 5 The color effect of is not fully demonstrated.
  • the yarn at the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5 (the fineness of the yarn at the top 3 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5).
  • the color of the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 is visible from the gap between the yarns constituting the top portion 3, and the color effect is reduced.
  • line parts 6 is too narrow, when the knitted fabric of the comparative example 9 sees the said knitted fabric from the front in the position 6m away from the said knitted fabric, each top part is independent.
  • the warp knitted fabric is used in the above-described embodiment, the present invention is not limited to this, and may be a weft knitted fabric, and is not limited to a knitted fabric. It may be a woven fabric, a non-woven fabric, a fiber sheet obtained by curing a plurality of fibers aligned in the same direction with a resin, or other structure composed of fibers. The same effects as described above can be obtained by such a woven fabric, weft knitted fabric, non-woven fabric, fiber sheet, or fiber structure. In the case of a woven fabric, a ridge having excellent dimensional stability can be formed by using a jacquard loom.
  • an insertion thread may be inserted into each of the ridges 6 so as to connect the adjacent ridges 6 to each other, and an elastic thread can be used as the insertion thread.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une structure de fibres qui permet à l'observateur d'observer l'effet de couleur souhaité sans visibilité de couleur qui est fortement limitée par la direction ou l'angle d'observation. La présente invention concerne un tissu tissé/tricoté (1) qui a de multiples crêtes (6) formées le long d'une direction, chaque crête (6) étant conçue à partir d'une partie supérieure (3) et de parois latérales (4), (5) en dessous de la partie supérieure (3). Parmi la partie supérieure (3) et les parois latérales (4), (5), au moins l'une a une couleur différente de celle des deux autres. Au moins certaines des multiples crêtes (6) sont agencées de telle sorte que l'intervalle L4 entre des crêtes adjacentes (6) est supérieur à 2,5 mm et inférieur ou égal à 30 mm. En définissant L1 comme la largeur du sommet (3), L2 comme l'épaisseur du sommet (3), L3 comme la hauteur des parois latérales (4), (5), et L5 comme l'intervalle de paroi des parois latérales (4), (5), les crêtes (6) sont conçues de telle sorte que L1 à L5 satisfont les relations suivantes. Rapport Ra = (L2+L3)/L4 = 0,8 à 7,9 Rapport Rb = L1/(L2+L3) = 0,4 à 1,6 Rapport Rc = L2/L3 = 0,2 à 0,9 Rapport Rd = L1/L5 = 0,4 à 1,2
PCT/JP2017/044323 2016-12-26 2017-12-11 Structure de fibres Ceased WO2018123531A1 (fr)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003113562A (ja) * 2001-10-05 2003-04-18 Seiren Co Ltd 畝状ダブル・ラッシェル地
JP4770102B2 (ja) * 1999-12-16 2011-09-14 日東紡績株式会社 立体マーキュゼット状編地
US20130004240A1 (en) * 2010-03-18 2013-01-03 Pionetti Francois-Regis Method for laying a submarine line on the seabed
JP2013124419A (ja) * 2011-12-13 2013-06-24 Shindo:Kk 凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体およびその製造方法
WO2017002867A1 (fr) * 2015-07-02 2017-01-05 株式会社ニューニット Tricot et son procédé de tricot
WO2017209140A1 (fr) * 2016-05-31 2017-12-07 東レ株式会社 Tissu tissé/tricoté

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP4770102B2 (ja) * 1999-12-16 2011-09-14 日東紡績株式会社 立体マーキュゼット状編地
JP2003113562A (ja) * 2001-10-05 2003-04-18 Seiren Co Ltd 畝状ダブル・ラッシェル地
US20130004240A1 (en) * 2010-03-18 2013-01-03 Pionetti Francois-Regis Method for laying a submarine line on the seabed
JP2013124419A (ja) * 2011-12-13 2013-06-24 Shindo:Kk 凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体およびその製造方法
WO2017002867A1 (fr) * 2015-07-02 2017-01-05 株式会社ニューニット Tricot et son procédé de tricot
WO2017209140A1 (fr) * 2016-05-31 2017-12-07 東レ株式会社 Tissu tissé/tricoté

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