US2466887A - Sleeve construction - Google Patents

Description

April 12, 1949. 5, FREE) 7 2,466,887

SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 26, 1946 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 v WWI/70,9

April 12, 1949. E. B. FRI ED 6 SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Fi1ed.Jan. 26, 1946 v 3 She'ets-Sheet 2 April 12, 1949.. E. B. FRIED 2,466,387

I SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION I Filed Jan. 26, 1946 Y 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 5) M l 4770/? V q Patented Apr. 12, 1949 SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Edna Berger Fried, Forest Hills, New York, N. Y., assignor to Adler & Adler, Inc., New York, N. Y.,

a corporation Application January 26, 1946, Serial No. 643,506

5 Claims. 1

This invention relates to garments and more particularly to the sleeve and underarm construction thereof.

In the construction of garments suitable for work, play or sportswear it is important that the greatest possible freedom of the arm, shoulder and back movement is provided.

In the conventional garments frequently gussets are inserted of additional material which gussets are inserted in between the sleeve edges and adjacent to armhole seam, thereby substantially adding at the underarm pit room for the movement of the arm and preventing thereby the pull on the body of the garment when the arms of the wearer are in raised position.

Another conventional method employed provides for tucks and gathers which provide for the desired fullness to give the required freedom of rtrxiiovement for garments of the herein referred to The employment of these conventional methods of construction for garments generally known as of the sport or work type cause bulges, gaps and folds of unsightly appearance when the Wearers arm is in raised position.

The inserted gussets frequently rip under strain or pull during exercise or work.

In laundering or repressing of the garments difficulties are entailed to obtain a smooth press which will give the garment crispness and newness in effect.

An object of my invention is to provide a sleeve and underarm construction which will obviate the herein recited disadvantages.

Another object of this invention is to provide a sleeve construction suitable for garments of the sport or work type in which the greatest possible freedom of the arm, shoulder and back is provided.

Another object of my invention is to provide an underarm construction, neat in appearance, and which will do away with customary folds, bulges, tucks or gathers heretofore occurring, and heretofore provided for underarm fullness.

Another object of my invention is to construct a more durable underarm and sleeve construction easy of manufacture with predetermined dimensional accuracy by faithful adherence to the accurate measurements .of the form of the wearer. A further object of my invention is to do away with a number of marginal seams in the garment and to distribute the strain of action equally on front, back and sleeve and armhole.

These and other objects and purposes of the 2 invention will become apparent as the descrip tion thereof proceeds. 1

Referring to the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a garment showing the conventional sleeve member and having a conventional gusset inserted in between; i

Fig. 2 is a garment showing the conventional sleeve member with tucked or gathered fullness at armhole portion of said garment;

Fig. 3 is a front view of a garment embodying my invention;

Fig. 4 is a rear view of the garment shown in Fi 3;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the sleeve construction of the garment shown in Figs. 3 and 4 taken on the line AA of Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a view of the pattern of blank from which the sleeve shown in the garment of Figs. 3 and 4 is made; r

Fig. '7 is a view of the pattern blank for the front of the garment shown in Fi s. 3 and 4;

Fig. 8 is a view of the pattern blank for the rear of the garment shown in Figs. 3 and 4;

Fig. 9 is a front view of another garment embodying my invention;

Fig. 10 is a rear view of the garment shown in Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a pattern blank or sloper, the full lines of which is similar to the front of the garment shown in Figs. 9 and 10, except that it is in one piece;

- Fig. 12 is a pattern blank, the full lines of which show the back sloper of the garment as shown in Figs. 9 and 10;

Fig. 13 is a sleeve pattern blank, the full lines of which show the sleeve sloper or a pattern blank of the garment as shown in Figs. 9 and 10 and embodying my invention;

Fig. 14 is a view of a blank having a lateral right angle extension coordinate with armhole curve rear member shown in Fig. 15; and

Fig. 15 is a view of a back member blank having a ,normal symmetrical armhole to coordinate with armhole of the front member shown in Fig. 14.

In the construction of the garment embodying my invention a conformingly proportionate relation between the armhole and side edge portions of the sleeve blank member of the garment and the edge portions of the front and back blank members of the garment must be maintainedi In Figs. '7' and 8 are shown the respective front and back blank members of my garment, andFig. 8 shows my blank member is of the normal symmetrical type,

The lower armhole Klil F of the front blank member, Fig. 7, is dropped below the armpit E continuing the concave curved armhole portion thereof below the armpit E to F the cancave portion E F forming thereby an enlarged concave armhole space which is for the reception of the rectangular lateral edge of the sleeve blank member G oftheagarment.

In the construction of the garment embodying my invention, I am not limited to the type, style or design of a garment. The garment may be of any type. It may have shoulder portione adapted to be joined together. It may have panels such as are shown inFigs. 3 'an'd4 or Figs; 9 and 10. The sleeve blanks or slopers maybe long or short. The sleeve blanks may also be of several pieces, cut up but adaptableifonjoiningr together. Care, however, must be taken that the several pieces be so dimensioned that in-the as sembled and joined together position the entire unit of the assembled and joined: together: pieces be within the dimensions of ftheperimetersof the herein illustrated andi described pattern blank members; wherein .the' relation iandzassociatiom of the several blanke are r designed and =1 intended to embody the features of my invention.

The sleeve blank G-is: cut with. a; straightedge BB which is: at. right: angles to the: sleeve: edge, BC also of atst raighti edge. TheiedgeBGforms the-wrist portion of the:sleeve.-. The. sleeve: edge opposite to wrist edge B of the sleevezblankis convexly: curved and: this forms: the head OR the sleeve FUED, which head is joined to the -.armihole portionu Llw or shoulder end: portion ofi' the garment at edges KE*ofithe front andzrearrblanks LM.

Elie-straight side edgeDBfahasan oppositeside GPR which"- opposite side is extended by a. sub:- stantially rectangular lateral extension FURR; This: extension: provides: material in; addition: to the normal symmetrical? sleeve G.

Caremustbe taken that this extended lateral portionof the. sleeve: conforms in. dimensional proportion tothe perimeter of. the concavely shaped armhole portion offthefi'ontmember'of the gar-ment saidfront memberdl which; has been herein shown, has a longer and more-hol low armholiredge- KE F than the normalsymmetrical armhole of the backmembenw of the garment:

The extended sleeve edge portion is con cavel'y and graduatingl'y curved near the wrist end thereof. The sid'e opposite to BG'formsthe head DEU.

ThestraightintermediatesideFR (Fig: 6) connects the' ends ofthe extensions; and tlie=concaveliv curvededge' RPS issecured to the straight sideDB forming thereby-- the tubular sleeve.

The intermediate side FR of the sleeve -is secared to the" upperjpart-oftheside MZ; Fig; 8'; of the,.edg e portioni'ofrthebackr The remaining end; ofj'th'e, extension and the shoulder'end or head; of; the. sleeve is. secured; to. the; armhole curves of the front and back portions (Figs..7 and.8).

Aswillbeseen .byFthe. illustrationand. descripe tion herein. there. must. be observedcarefuhconiormityp in.- the,-- relation.- of' theseveral pattern blanksz-usediin the-constr11ction. of theegarment embodyinetmysinyention.

Qbviouslyi'. the; invention: admits of various triodifications.2v Eorzinstance,.thezprocessslends.its

self; to: azgarmenttillnstratediin Figs. 9; and; 10; wherein my methoiclais. usedziinctransverseerelae 4 tion. Fig. 9 illustrates the front of another garment embodying my invention.

In the herein illustrated garment the underarm fullness is formed by the manipulation of the front and back pattern blanks, and by the conforming coordinating manipulation of the sleeve pattern blank in transverse relation to the process shown" and described of the garment illustrated in Figs= 3 and=4.

Referring to Fig. 11, the full lines show the perimeter of the blank shown in Fig. 9. The dotted. lines adjacent to the full lines of Fig. 11 illustrate the diiference in the perimeter when comparedxtoqthenormal symmetrical blank of a garment. Itwill be seen therefrom that I extend theblanks' at-armpits K and L by adding substantially triangular lateral extensions N, said extensions beginning from about the armpit and continuing by concave tapering so as to blend graduatingly with thezremaining side edges of the-blank;

Therbacki pattern .blank'. member-a Fig; 12,. has also a substantially triangular lateral; extension Ni whichztapersrin a mannerrasto blend with the sideredges ofi said back blank.

Therdottedlines in;the drawingi Fig. 12; areto illustrate the difference-between= my; new back and: the normal symmetrical back blank pattern.

Referring; to Fig; 13;, which illustrates the sleeve pattern blank, of: the garment. shown. in Figs.- 9.-and'-10,-it will. be seenzthatfa triangular section at the:upper.- portion of: the normal sym+ metricalzsleevehas been :cut; oil, forming thereby atsubstantially'narrow convexly; curved shoulder end on said sleeve:

The dotted lines: in. Fig; 13- onthe drawing showarnormal symmetricab sleeve blank; The triangularpieces F and: R are cut: ofi therefromto: form the-119W? sleeve; as shownin the above figure in full lines.

Bmjoining, the adjacent; sidestof. the front and back? pattern blanks .-of.-.the.-garment; .I obtain. the desired underarm. fullnesswithout. recourse to extraseaming, tucking, piecing or gathering. It can be seen that-byfthese simple means I obviate an number.- ofoperationsin the manufacture of my garmenta-ndJ .obtainegreater accuracy. in fit and .eifect .a cleaner. and .neater appearance.

Conversely, by extending. either, the front or back blankmembers-witha rectangular extension (Figs. 14 and 15) instead of extending, both front. and. back members .of thev pattern blanks witnlateral triangular: extensions, I, obtain also the aforementioned. result, since. thereby. the lateral right angular. extensionY. andX3 (Fig. 14) inteitherrof thefront Qrbackpatt'ern blank meme bers;v wilL. provide sufficient. fullness for boththe frontandbacli underarm portions of thegarment.

In.constructing my garment, I.extend the front pattern; Fig. 14, approximately atthe armpit R and graduate with aconcave curving'thesides V O A parallel an-d oppositeconcavely curved there'- to side edge=is-formedj saidside edge beginning within tlie=concave curve of "a normal symmetrical armh'olew','Fig.114, and e-Xtended to M Fig; 14. The two: opposite side edges are-next connected by'sa tstraighirsideedge M g 0?} and" M3; .V? forming thereby rectangular lateral extensions; Wand X? shownin Fig; 14'.

Izjoimthezrespective sidezedges: :of: the: front and backiblanksiat ).%-H? -toiA"i-B and theishoulder portion thereofi at; H -"-I? to; Gfi FF. L use..- the same:sleeve;constructionshowrr.imFig; 13; aml'as above described I join the opposite straight side edges of the sleeve blank, Fig. 13, D E to D --1=' forming thereby a tubular sleeve.

The upper convex edge F -Z -Q I next secure to the upper armhole portion. The lateral extensions Y and X I secure to the side edges of the sleeve F -D and Q D I have thus obtained the same results as shown in the sleeve and garment construction in Figs. 9 and 10, but instead of using lateral extensions on both front and back blank members of the garment, I use lateral right angle extensions as described.

Now, having described my invention, what I claim is:

1. In combination with a garment having front and back blanks defining an armhole opening, a sleeve formed of a single blank, said sleeve hav ing a convexly curved upper portion, said front and back blanks having extended side portions, comprising substantially lateral triangular extensions on front and back portions of said blanks; said lateral triangular extensions having a concavely curved side end edge and an opposite concavely curved inner side end edge, said blank having a straight wrist end portion and an opposite thereto convexly curved shoulder end portion; said blank having intermediate straight sides connecting the convexly curved shoulder end edge of said sleeve to the wrist end of said sleeve, said intermediate sides of said sleeve blank being secured to the respective side edges of the lateral triangular extension of the front and back blanks and the convexly curved shoulder end of the sleeve blank being secured to the upper edges of said armhole opening.

2. In combination with a garment comprising front and back portions formed with arm hole openings, a sleeve member comprising a blank having a convexly curved upper edge and edges inclined outwardly of said curved edge, said front and back portions each including integral portions projecting outwardly of the lower portion of said armhole openings and formed with inner concave edges, said sleeve member having the inclined edges thereof stitched to said inner concave edges of the integral portions of said front and back portions and the curved edges of said sleeve member being stitched to upper edges of the armhole openings of said front and back portions.

3. A garment comprising a body portion having an armhole edge, said body portion comprising integral portions having converging concave edges projecting upwardly from the lower portion of said armhole edge, a sleeve comprising a member having opposite edge portions seamed together and dges diverging from said seamed edges, said diverging edges being interconnected at their outer ends by a convex curved edge, said sleeve having its diverging edges stitched to the converging edges of said body portion and its curved edge stitched to the upper edges of the armhole opening in said body portion.

4. A garment comprising a body member having a front panel and a back panel, said panels being formed with armhole openings having concave curved edges, said panels comprising upwardly projecting integral portions having upper concave edges defined by the lower portion of said concave curved edges, the said integral portions extending outwardly of the side edges of said blanks and including lower edges extending upwardly and outwardly of said side edges, sleeve members stitched to said body member at said armhole openings, said sleeve members having inclined edges stitched to the upper edges of the integral portions on said panels.

5. A garment comprising a body member having front and back panels, said panels being formed with armhole openings, each of said panels comprising an integral portion projecting outwardly and upwardly of the side edges thereof, said projecting portions having inner concave edges and having their outer edges stitched together, a sleeve member having a curved edge stitched to a portion of the edge of said arm hole opening in said panels and edges inclined from said curved edge, said inclined edges being stitched to the inner edges of said projecting portions on said panels.

EDNA BERGER FRIED.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain Nov. 2, 1910 Great Britain Dec. 20, 1928 Number Number

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