US20190000218A1

US20190000218A1 - Cosmetic applicators and cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: US20190000218A1
Application number: US15/635,913
Authority: US
Inventors: Anke Hadasch; Christine Marie CRANE; Noemie Chaillet Piquand; William Blake SOETERS; Roloando Gorostiza
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2017-06-28
Filing date: 2017-06-28
Publication date: 2019-01-03
Also published as: WO2019005919A1

Abstract

Discussed herein is a cosmetic system including a cosmetic applicator, and a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic applicator includes a deformable container that stores the cosmetic composition. The applicator includes an applicator head having a proximal end and a distal end, wherein the distal end is connected to the deformable container. The applicator also includes a slit along an axis of the applicator head and an interior channel in the applicator head. Further, the applicator includes a flocked brush covering at least a portion of the slit, wherein the flocked brush includes a plurality of fibers, each fiber having a length in a first range of 0.5 millimeters (mm) to 3.0 mm, and a decitex (dtex) value in a second range of 5-50.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates generally to an apparatus for applying cosmetic compositions to keratinous material. In particular, the present disclosure is related to a cosmetic applicator and associated cosmetic compositions for application of mascara to eyelashes.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The background description provided herein is for the purpose of generally presenting the context of the disclosure. Work of the presently named inventor(s), to the extent the work is described in this background section, as well as aspects of the description that may not otherwise qualify as prior art at the time of filing, are neither expressly nor impliedly admitted as prior art against the present disclosure.
Typically, cosmetic applicators such as those used for lip-gloss include a soft flock. As such, these flocks are not well suited for application of cosmetics (e.g. mascara) on eyelashes, eyebrows, or keratinous substances (i.e., hair substrates). Moreover, currently used cosmetic applicators such as a mascara brush that employ flock are soft in nature. Such soft fibers are not well suited to grip and separate keratinous fibers. As a result, the application of the cosmetic material to keratinous substances usually results in an uneven amount of application. Moreover, the process of applying the cosmetic material to the keratinous substances with the use of traditional mascara brushes results in an unpleasing experience to the user.
Accordingly, there is a need for an improved cosmetic applicator and cosmetic compositions for application to keratinous materials.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An aspect of the present disclosure provides a cosmetic system comprising: a cosmetic applicator, and a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic applicator or reservoir includes a deformable container or a pen (operating with a piston, click or push pen mechanism) that stores the cosmetic composition. The applicator includes an applicator head having a proximal end and a distal end, wherein the distal end is connected to the deformable container. The applicator includes a slit or holes of any shape or number along an axis of the applicator head and an interior channel in the applicator head. Further, the applicator includes a flocked brush covering at least a portion of the slit, wherein the flocked brush includes a plurality of fibers, each fiber having a length in a first range of 0.5 millimeters (mm) to 3.0 mm, and a decitex (dtex) value in a second range of 1-50.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of the specification, illustrate one or more embodiments and, together with the description, explain these embodiments. The accompanying drawings have not necessarily been drawn to scale. Any values dimensions illustrated in the accompanying graphs and figures are for illustration purposes only and may or may not represent actual or preferred values or dimensions. Where applicable, some or all features may not be illustrated to assist in the description of underlying features. In the drawings:

FIG. 1 illustrates according to an embodiment, an exemplary mascara tube including a flocked applicator according to an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure;

FIGS. 2A and 2B depict exemplary front side and back side prospective views of the mascara tube of FIG. 1 according to an exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure;

FIG. 3 illustrates an applicator with a slit under a flocked brush according to an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure;

FIG. 4 illustrates an exemplary applicator with slit according to an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure;

FIG. 5A is an exploded isometric view of a mascara application assembly according to an embodiment of the present disclosure;

FIG. 5B is an isometric view of another mascara application assembly according to an embodiment of the present disclosure; and

FIG. 6 depicts according to an embodiment, an exemplary head portion of a flocked brush.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In the following description of the disclosure and the claims appended hereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and accustomed meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
“About” as used herein means within 10% of the indicated number (e.g. “about 10%” means 9%-11% and “about 2%” means 1.8%-2.2%).
“A” or “an” as used herein means “at least one.”
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as and 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. “Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film forming agent” or “co-film former” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/ or dissipated on the substrate.
“Wax” as used herein is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than 30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., which can be as high as 150° C., a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
“Free” or “devoid” of as it is used herein means that while it is preferred that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of it in the compositions of the disclosure provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the disclosure. Thus, for example, “free of solvents” means that non-aqueous solvents are preferably omitted (that is 0% by weight), but can be present in the composition at an amount of less than about 0.25% by weight, typically less than about 0.1% by weight, typically less than about 0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
“Makeup Result” as used herein, refers to compositions where color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. “Makeup Result” may be evaluated by evaluating long wear properties by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to keratin materials such as eyelashes and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to keratin materials such as eyelashes and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
“Making up” as used herein means to provide decoration (for example, color) to keratin materials such as the eyelashes.
“Protecting” as used herein means to inhibit damage to keratin materials such as the eyelashes by providing a protective layer on the keratin materials.
“Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents for substitution include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
“Water resistance” as used herein, means resistance of a material (substance) to the penetration of water, which may cause degradation of that material.
“Transfer resistance” as used herein refers to the quality exhibited by compositions that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or the skin, for example, when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such. For example, transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated by a “kiss” test. The “kiss” test may involve application of the composition to human keratin material such as hair, skin or lips followed by rubbing a material, for example, a sheet of paper, against the hair, skin or lips after expiration of a certain amount of time following application, such as 2 minutes after application. Similarly, transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as transfer from the hair, skin or lips of an individual to a collar when putting on clothing after the expiration of a certain amount of time following application of the composition to the hair, skin or lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., collar, or paper) may then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if a majority of the product is left on the wearer's hair, skin or lips. Further, the amount transferred may be compared with that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present disclosure, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the hair, skin or lips.
The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
Referred to herein are trade names for materials including, but not limited to polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited by materials described and referenced by a certain trade name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number) to those referenced by trade name may be substituted and utilized in the methods described and claimed herein.
All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of a composition unless otherwise indicated. All component or composition levels are in reference to the active level of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
Furthermore, where a range of values is provided, it is to be understood that each intervening value between an upper and lower limit of the range and any other stated or intervening value in that stated range is encompassed within the disclosure. Where the stated range includes upper and lower limits, ranges excluding either of those limits are also included.
The following disclosure is to aid the reader in understanding the present invention, but it is not intended to vary or otherwise limit the meaning of the disclosure or terms/phrases describing the disclosure.
Flocking is a process whereby a surface is covered with more or less densely packed, upstanding fibers that have a short length and fine diameter. The fibers are typically delivered to an adhesive coating that is applied to a surface. The flocking method can utilize techniques such as electrostatic delivery of fibers to the adhesive coating.
As stated previously, commonly used cosmetic applicators such as those used for mascara application, include a brush attached to a cap with a wand to which flocks are attached. Such mascara brushes include fibers which are soft in nature. Such soft fibers are not well suited to grip and separate keratinous fibers. Further, for such brushes, less amount of product (i.e. mascara composition) is typically deposited. Accordingly, an aspect of the present disclosure provides for an improved flock that is harder and thus provides for more separation and grip on keratinous fibers. The flock of the present disclosure can be used in conjunction with a flow-through type of cosmetic applicator. In what follows, there is initially provided a detailed description of the different types of cosmetic applicators, followed by a description of the flock to be used with the applicators.
Cosmetic Applicator-Flow Through Type
FIG. 1 shows an exemplary flocked mascara applicator 100 that provides a mechanism of applying mascara in a seamless manner and/or provides a pleasant sensation when used. In an embodiment, the flocked mascara applicator 100 is a two- to three-piece device including an applicator head 101 and a deformable container 103 (also referred herein as a tube 103). In an embodiment, the container 103 is provided as a hollow container that carries the cosmetic composition (e.g., mascara or other fluid material) and deforms upon application of force. The tube 103 can be of different shape such as a pipe-shaped, grip shaped, or any other shape that can be held and deformed with fingers or palms.
In one embodiment, the tube 103 is essentially shaped as a cylinder that is pinched (sealed) at one end (distal end) and connected to the applicator head 101 at the other end (proximal end). The tube 103 may be hermetically sealed at the distal end in order to provide a sealed container. Furthermore, the inside walls of the tube 103 may be coated with special coatings in order to inhibit the tube's material from reacting with the contents.
The tube 103 may be attached at its proximal end to the applicator head 101 via any suitable means such as, for example, a locking mechanism such as, for example, a click-lock mechanism during assembly or it may be twisted together with the applicator head 101 via a threading mechanism. In one embodiment, the tube 103 is a soft-squeezable reservoir that may be made of any suitable deformable material such as, for example, plastic, paperboard, aluminum or the like. The volume of the tube can be of any size, but preferably of a size which contains 1.0 to 10 ml, 2.0 to 17 ml, and preferably 1.5 to 15 ml of cosmetic composition. However, it must be appreciated that smaller-sized tubes can be manufactured, for example, for a travel-size applicator. Furthermore, the applicator 100 can be manufactured as a one-piece unit where the tube and the applicator head forms a unitary construction. Such applicators, upon use, can be discarded, if desired. A refill (with cosmetic composition) provision for the one-piece, two-piece, or three-piece applicators can also be provided.
The applicator head 101 includes a proximal end 101A that is attached to the tube 103, and a distal end 101B that includes a flocked brush 105. The applicator head 101 may be made of a soft or hard material. In one embodiment, the applicator head is curved in shape, wherein a degree of curvature (θ) is such that the mascara tube 100 provisions for easy application of the mascara to curved surfaces such as a user's eyebrows and/or eyelashes. The degree of curvature may be predetermined in a manner that is deemed appropriate to one of ordinary skill in the art to achieve desired application to the desired keratinous material. Additionally, in an embodiment, the flocked brush 105 may be oriented in a manner such that a longitudinal axis or the flocked brush is substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis of the tube 103.
Due to the curvature (θ), the flocked brush 105 is inclined with respect to a longitudinal axis of the applicator 100. Increasing or decreasing the angle θ can affect the amount of mascara transported to the flocked brush 105. For example, an acute angle θ (e.g., less than 90°) may need higher force on the tube 103 compared to an obtuse angle θ (e.g., greater than 100°) to transport a particular amount of mascara to the flocked brush 105. Providing an optimum curvature should be maintained to allow easy transportation and application of cosmetic composition such as mascara. Preferably, the angle θ is between 0° to 260°, preferably between about 0° to 200 °, and preferably about 0° to 180°. The angle θ may also interact with properties of the cosmetic composition such as, for example, viscosity, consistency, and critical strain. For example, for a lower viscosity and/or lower consistency mascara, a smaller angle may provide sufficient resistance to transport an optimum amount of mascara to the flocked brush 105 than a higher viscosity and/or consistency.
By one embodiment, the flocked material (brush) 105 is extended over an end portion 101B of the applicator head 101, and around the circumference. For example, the flocked brush 105 can be spread partially or fully along the circumference of the applicator head 101. In one embodiment, the flocked brush 105 preferably covers one-third to one-half of the circumference of the applicator head 101. In doing so, the mascara applicator provisions for the application of the mascara at the corners and bottom of eyelashes in an easy manner.
The flocked mascara applicator 100 provisions for easy transport of the mascara from the tube to the flocked brush 105 and utilizes the curvature of the applicator head 101 for easy application of the mascara. Furthermore, it may be possible to provide for refills of the tube and/or switching the applicator head.
Referring to FIGS. 2A and 2B, the applicator head 101 can be of length L3, and the flocked brush 105 can have a length L1 on the front side and a length L2 on the back side of the applicator head 101. The length of the flocked brush 105 can also affect an optimum amount of mascara discharged on the flocked brush 105. For example, if the length L1 of the flocked brush 105 is long, more mascara may be discharged to realize a uniform wetting of the flocked brush 105.
Referring back to FIG. 1, the applicator head 101 has an interior applicator channel 110 conforming to the shape of the applicator head 101. The interior applicator channel 110 can extend from an opening of the tube 103 to the end portion of the applicator head 101. The interior applicator channel 110 receives mascara from the tube 103 via hole(s) and transports the mascara to the flocked brush 105. The interior applicator channel 110 can have a diameter preferably ranging from 0.5 mm to 5 mm, preferably 0.75 mm to 4.5 mm, and preferably from 1 mm to 3 mm. The channel 110 can have a uniform diameter or can have a varying diameter of any type, for example a diameter decreasing or increasing towards the end portion 101A of the applicator head 101 resulting in a tapered shape. Such tapering is particularly preferred in embodiments in which the applicator head has a conical shape. The size of the hole is such that there is little or no leakage of mascara between the tube hole(s) and the interior applicator channel 110.
Moreover, the flocked brush 105 can be made of any suitable material used for flocking materials such as, for example, polyamides, polyesters, rayons, cottons, celluloses, polyacryles, carbone fibers, aramids, etc. The flocked brush 105 may optionally include polymeric micro-bristles that may be adhered to the applicator head 101 by injection molding techniques, electrostatic techniques and the like. In operation, the flocked applicator 100 can transport the mascara from the tube 103 to the flocked brush 105 upon squeezing of the tube 103 (deformable container) or by employing a depressible elements such as a movable piston mechanism within the tube 103 to push the mascara onto the flocked brush 105. The cosmetic composition deposited on the flocked brush 105 may then be applied to the hair, eyebrows and/or eyelashes of the user.
FIG. 3 depicts according to one embodiment, an applicator with a slit under a flocked brush. Referring to FIG. 3, the applicator head 301 discharges the cosmetic composition such as mascara on to the flocked brush 305, via a slit, 51. According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the slit can be of any geometry such as, for example, amorphous, rectangular, oval, circular, triangular, etc. As FIG. 3 shows a slit S1, it should be appreciated that one or more embodiments utilize hole(s) of any geometry as discussed above to discharge the cosmetic composition. The slit S1 can be positioned anywhere along the length of the applicator head 301 covered with the flocked brush 305, and can be parallel, perpendicular or skewed with respect to any axis of the applicator head. Preferably, the slit S1 has a length which is at least about 30% of the length of the applicator head, preferably at least about 45% to 50% of the length of the applicator head, and preferably at least about 60% of the length of the applicator head.
FIG. 4 illustrates an exemplary applicator with a slit according to an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure. The slit 410 of the applicator head has a length (Ls1) and a width (w1). The cosmetic composition (mascara) flows out of the slit 410 to wet the flocked brush (not illustrated). Preferably, the slit has a width smaller than 2 mm, preferably smaller than 1.7 mm, preferably smaller than 1.5 mm while preferably being larger than 0.3 mm, preferably larger than 0.5 mm, and preferably larger than 0.7 mm, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, 0.7 mm to 1.5 mm, etc.
By one embodiment, the width w1 of the slit 410 of the head S401 can be approximately 1 mm. The length of the slit 410 can extend from the end portion 101A (FIG. 1) of the applicator head 101 up to the other end 101B. For example, the length of the slit can be between about 20% to 80% of the length of the length of the applicator head 101, preferably 30% to 70%, preferably 33% to 50%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
The amount of cosmetic composition such as mascara discharged can be a function of, among other things, the dimensions of the slit and cosmetic composition (mascara) properties including viscosity, consistency, critical strain, force applied to the tube, and flock material. An optimum amount of mascara should be discharged to provide deposit of product on the flocked brush, so that the mascara or cosmetic composition can be applied to a surface such as user's hair, eyelashes or eyebrows.
Cosmetic Applicator-Dip Type
Turning to FIG. 5A, there is depicted an exploded isometric view of a mascara application assembly according to an embodiment of the present disclosure.
The mascara applicator of FIG. 5A includes an application assembly 500 such as a tube, for applying mascara or another cosmetic product. The assembly 500 comprises a bottle 502 capable of containing the product to be applied and a brush 503. The brush 503 includes a grip element (not attached to the cap) 504 capable of being held by user wishing to apply cosmetic product, and a rod 505 that extends from a proximal end 505 a to an opposite distal end 505 b along a longitudinal axis X which, in the present example, extends in rectilinear fashion. Note that in the present embodiment, the grip element 504 is not attached to the bottle 502. The rod 500 bears an application component 506 that includes a plurality of bristles (also referred to herein as fibers) that may be affixed to a flocking material as described in further detail hereinafter.
The grip element 504 also forms a closure element suitable for closing the bottle 502. For example, a part of the brush 503 forming a stopper 507 includes, on an inner face, not shown in FIG. 5, a threaded bore that cooperates with a complementary thread 508 formed on the outer surface of the bottle 502. Thus, the bottle 502 can be easily, alternatively opened or closed by a simple rotation movement of the stopper 507 about the axis X.
The rod 505 includes a proximal portion 505 c close to the grip element 504, and a distal portion 505 d having a smaller cross section and receiving the application component 506 such that, in the closed position of the assembly 500, it is dipped into the cosmetic product to be applied.
FIG. 5B depicts according to one embodiment, an isometric view of another mascara application assembly 550. The assembly 550 comprises a bottle 512 capable of containing the product to be applied and a brush 513. The brush 513 includes a grip element 514 that is capable of being held by user wishing to apply cosmetic product. Alternatively, by one embodiment, and as shown in FIG. 5B, the brush can be inverted such that the grip element 514 is affixed (i.e., coupled) to an open portion 518 on the bottle 512. For instance, the element 514 can be coupled to the opening 518 by a click-lock mechanism, or can be coupled to the opening 518 in a threaded manner such that in the affixed position the grip element 514 is inserted through the opening 518 until a stopper 517 is in contact with a top portion of the opening 518. Thus, the bottle 512 can be held by the user, and used in a similar ergonomic way as the design of the flow-through system.
Similar to the applicator as shown in FIG. 5A, the applicator of FIG. 5B includes a rod that extends from a proximal end to an opposite distal end along a longitudinal axis which, in the present example, extends in rectilinear fashion. Moreover, the rod bears an application component 516 that includes a plurality of bristles (i.e., fibers) that may be affixed to a flocking material as described below.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, there is provided an improved flock for application of cosmetics on keratinous fibers. In the remainder of the disclosure, the term flock is used to denote the fiber or bristles that are attached to the cosmetic applicators.
By one aspect of the present disclosure, the flocks can range in length from 0.5 mm to 3.0 mm, with a preferred range of 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm, and/or 0.5 mm to 3.0 mm. Moreover the flock can have a decitex value (referred to herein as dtex value, i.e. a unit in textile measurement, wherein the unit is measured in terms of mass in grams per 1000 meters) of 1-50 dtex, with a preferable dtex value in the range of 1.7 to 45, and a further preferable range of 6.7 to 40 dtex. As one example, the flock can have fibers with a length of 0.5 mm and a dtex value of 1.7. Further, by one aspect of the present disclosure, a combination of fibers having unique dtex values can be employed on the cosmetic applicator for enhanced uses.
For instance, referring to FIG. 6, there is described by one embodiment, an exemplary head portion 601 of a flocked brush of the type as depicted in FIG. 1. Fibers of different (unique) dtex values can be adhered to the brush. For example, as shown in FIG. 6, a central portion of the applicator brush 610 may include flock having a dtex value greater than a predetermined threshold dtex value and/or flock that have a dtex value in a first preferred range. In a similar manner, the region 620 may include fibers that are relatively softer (lower dtex value) than the fibers included in the region 610. In doing so, the harder fibers located in the central region of the flocked brush provide a better grip and separation of keratinous fibers.
By one embodiment, the central region 610 can include fibers having dtex value in the range from 20-45 dtex, and the fibers in the region 620 can have a dtex value in the range from 1-25. However, it must be appreciated that the flocked brush can include several other combinations of the fibers having different dtex values. For instance, the flocked brush can include a uniform distribution of fibers having varying dtex values.
Moreover, it must be appreciated that the arrangement for fibers as described with reference to FIG. 6 applies to a flow-through type of cosmetic applicator. However, the combination of fibers with different dtex values is equally applicable to the dip-type cosmetic applicator as depicted in FIG. 5. For instance, fibers having a greater dtex values may be disposed in the central region of the application component 506 (of the applicator 500 of FIG. 5), and softer fibers (i.e., fibers having lower dtex values) may be disposed towards the outer portions of the application component.
Cosmetic Composition
According to the present invention, a cosmetic composition for application to keratinous material is provided. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is mascara and the keratinous material is eyebrows and/or eyelashes.
According to preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present invention possesses one or more of the following properties:
A consistency of 100,000 Pa or less, preferably 90,000 Pa or less, 80,500 Pa or less, preferably 80,000 Pa or less and greater than 500 Pa, preferably greater than 1000 Pa and preferably greater than 1100 Pa, including all ranges and subranges therebetween including, for example, 500 Pa to 100,000 Pa, preferably 1000 Pa to 90,000 Pa, and preferably 1100 Pa to 80,000 Pa.
By one embodiment of the present disclosure, the cosmetic composition can range from a more fluid to medium viscosity mascara formulation. High viscosity mascara formulations are not favored because they require too much force to dispense. Utilizing the flock of a certain decitex value (e.g. dtex value in the range 6.7 to 50, and preferably 17 to 50) enables the combing out of lumps and separation of the eyelashes. Moreover, it must be appreciated that the cosmetic applicator as described herein can be used in conjunction with a mascara composition having a lower viscosity. Specifically, lower viscosity mascara is one wherein the viscosity is in the range of about 5000 to 125,000 centipoise as determined on a Brookfield Viscometer using RV-4 to RV-7 spindles from an rpm of 10-100 measured after 3-10 minutes at 20-25 degrees Celsius.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition of present invention possesses at least two of the above properties, preferably at least three of the above properties, and preferably all four of the above properties. In accordance with the present invention, the cosmetic composition can be in any form and can contain any ingredient typical of cosmetic compositions for application to keratinous materials.
The cosmetic compositions can be in any form such as, for example, an anhydrous composition, an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including a silicone-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion including a water-in-silicone emulsion, a multiple emulsion, etc. as long as the composition satisfies one or more of the criteria set forth above.
The cosmetic compositions can contain any ingredient used in compositions for application to keratinous materials such as, for example water, oils, colorants, waxes, film forming agents, thickeners, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, sunscreens, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, silicone elastomers, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof can be added.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one wax. Suitable examples of waxes that can be used in accordance with the present disclosure include those generally used in the cosmetics field: they include those of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as the polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or else esters of fatty acids, such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides which are concrete at 30° C., for example at 45° C., silicone waxes, such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain ranging from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 30° C., and whose ester chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, or else di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, which is sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S, and mixtures thereof.
If present, the wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.5 to 20%, and for example from 1 to 17%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. However, according to particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are wax-free.
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, cosmetic compositions further comprising at least one coloring agent are provided. Preferably, such colored compositions can be cosmetic compositions such as mascaras.
According to this embodiment, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as liposoluble dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents.
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, B-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 6%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Additionally, coloring agents may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.5% to 40%, and further such as from 2% to 30%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0% to 99% (such as from 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1% to 50% (if present), including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
By one embodiment of the present disclosure, the cosmetic composition is a water-based mascara composition without waxes as shown in Example 1 below. However, it must be appreciated that the cosmetic composition may also include coloring compositions containing waxes that can be washable, waterproof, or anhydrous compositions in which keratinous materials are temporarily or permanently colored.

EXAMPLE 1

Aqua/Water/EAU, CI 77499/Iron Oxides, Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Peg-200 Glyceryl Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polybutene, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil/Castor Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitol/Sebacic Acid Copolymer Behenate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Divinylsimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulphate, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Dibehenate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethy Taurate, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Cross-polymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Tribehenin, Dimethiconol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, Glyceryl Behenate, Disodium EDTA, C12-13 Pareth-23, C12-13 Pareth-3, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopherol.
Method of Cosmetic Composition Preparation
By one embodiment, the cosmetic composition can be prepared as described in the steps below:
Initially, a kettle charged with pigments, preservatives, water soluble thickeners, water soluble emulsifiers, plasticizers, oils, liquid fats, oil soluble emulsifiers and non-latex film formers is homogenized at 900-1200 rpm for approximately 1 hour.
Once emulsified, the composition is cooled to 45-50° C.
Temperature sensitive latex and silicone film former dispersions and silicone elastomers are added and mixed for 20 minutes (1200 rpm).
The homogenizer is switched to slow sweeper blade and cooled to temperatures less than 30° C.
According to one embodiment, a cosmetic formula is prepared in the manner as described above. A removal and volume rating test is performed with fake eyelashes after a single dry period. Cosmetic formula e.g., mascara is applied onto fake eyelashes in 10 stroke intervals, with 2 minute dry time in between applications.
Moreover, by one embodiment, a brush hardness test is performed. For instance, experiments are performed on a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer with a 3D printed stencil (1 cm thick) made of polylactic acid (PLA). The stencil includes a cylindrical hole of 4.53 mm or 8mm in diameter. The experiments are conducted based on the following settings: Test Mode: compression, Pre-test speed: 2 mm/sec, post-test speed: 2 mm/sec, test speed: 2 mm/sec, target mode: distance, distance: 25 mm, trigger force: auto, trigger force: 2 grams.
By one embodiment, the time required by the brush to return to its initial position, after being pushed through a hole of the stencil is determined. Further, a curve can be generated based on the applied force (grams) as a function of time (seconds). It is observed that when a 2g surface trigger is attained, the probe proceeds to push the brush to a distance of 25 mm (5 mm for comparison to lip gloss applicators). At this point (a maximum positive force), the probe returns to its original position at constant speed (e.g. 2.0 mm/s). The maximum positive force (hardness, grams) and area of the positive and negative curve (work or push and pull, g*sec) indicate a hardness of the bristles. Specifically, smaller peaks of the generated plot correspond to softer bristles. By one embodiment, experiment is repeated a predetermined number of times (e.g. three times) and a standard deviation is computed as shown in the following tables.
According to one embodiment, a water removal test is performed on the flocks of the mascara brush. In one case, the water removal experiment is performed in triplicates, wherein each time 30 strokes of the cosmetic product is applied to fake eyelashes in a 10 stroke set. The cosmetic sample is allowed to dry for one hour, whereafter cotton pads soaked with 1.5 mL of water are applied to the fake eyelashes. Specifically, the fake lash is held between the cotton pads for 10 seconds and then withdrawn gently. The process is repeated until no additional product can be removed. The number of pads that are required to remove the mascara completely is counted. It is noted that a less number of pads corresponds to having a lower amount of product deposited on the eyelashes. Accordingly, as shown in Table I below, a relative rating of the amount of sample with respect to pad 2 (out of a set of 14 pads) is provided for comparison purposes.
According to one embodiment, a visual volume rating is performed on the flocks. In order to determine volume, experiments are run in triplicates, wherein each experiment includes applying 30 strokes of product to fake eyelashes, in 10 stroke sets. The samples are allowed to dry for an hour, whereafter the amount of product on the fake eyelashes is rated based on a volumizing scale of 1-3. With reference to Table I below, the parameter intensity rating of pad number 2 corresponds to an amount of composition transferred to pad 2, which is visually rated. It is observed that when more product was deposited on the lashes, a correspondingly larger intensity of bulk was observed to be removed on pad 2.
In what follows, there is provided a performance evaluation of the flocks of the present disclosure. In Table I, there is illustrated a comparison of flocks of the present disclosure, and in Table II there is provided a comparison of the flocks of the present disclosure to standard flocked applicators such as those used for lip products. It must be appreciated that the flocks of the present disclosure are flocks that are both harder, and require more work to push or pull them as compared to flocks that are used in lip applicators. Note, that the difference in hardness of the flocks (of the present disclosure) as compared to standard flocks (e.g., lip-applicator flock) provides for more separation and grip on keratinous fibers.
Table I: A comparison of flocks for product deposition, removal and amount of product in the removal test (based on pad 2). N.D.=not determined. For 405 mm applicators flocked with combinations below (Ex. 1-14) or flow-through applicators (6.5-7.0 mm in diameter) flocked with combinations below, pushed through an 8 mm hole.
Table II depicts according to an embodiment, a comparison of hardness (g) of applicators (4-5 mm in diameter) flocked with different combinations of fibers, and the work required to push (g.sec) and pull applicators through 3D printed stencil with a diameter of 4.53 mm or 8 mm hole according to the brush hardness test.

TABLE II

a comparison of hardness (g) of flocked applicators and work to push (g sec)
and pull applicators through 3D printed stencil with a diameter of 4.53 mm.

	Flock				Hardness
	1	Flock	Flock	Flock	of		Work		Work
Brush	Length
	1	2	Length	Bristles	Hardness	(push,	Work	(pull,	Work
Ex.	(mm)	(dtex)	(dtex)	(mm)	(g)	stdev	g*s)	stdev	−g*s)	stdev

1	1	22	None	N.a.	134.189	1.909	1327.13	21.68	1596	31.02
3	2.5	22	None	N.a.	384.78	10.28	2444.601	232.4	1685.94	249.96
4	1	44	None	N.a.	180.36	11.53	1428.31	80.95	1932.75	160.78
5	2	44	None	N.a.	390.78	38.75	2420.97	193.49	2199.66	148.221
6	2.5	44	None	N.a.	355.47	18.46	2249.195	166	1727.31	125.12
7	0.5	1.7	6.7	1.5
8	1.5	6.7	1.7	0.5	28.89	0.401	297.95	5.56	448.131	7.5
9	1	17	1.7	1	11.83	0.605	91.7	2.29	90.43	1.491
10	1	17	1.7	0.5	4.55	0.232	36.38	2.43	31.73	0.329
11	2	22	1.7	0.5	58.7	1.99	567.34	14.41	438.42	13.74
12	2	22	1.7	0.5	82.19	2.44	709.99	9.47	669.38	19.87
13	0.5	1.7	44	2	69.35	1.71	521.3	42.54	381.61	37.86
14	0.5	1.7	44	2

Table III depicts a comparison of hardness (g) and work to push (g·sec) for flocked applicators of the present disclosure, through a 3D printed stencil with a diameter of 4.53-8.0 mm (and a height of 6-7 mm) according to the brush hardness test described previously. Different brush types are passed through a stencil having a diameter of 4.53mm. Further, a probe travels a distance of 5 mm when trigger force is reached. Referring to Table III, examples 15-19 (correspond to the applicators passed through a 8.0 mm stencil) are flow through applicator tips that are 3D printed and lab flocked, whereas brush examples 20-21 are industrial molded and industrial flocked. By one embodiment, flow-through applicators are evaluated with an 8.0 mm diameter stencil for work to push and pull. The mascara applicators of the present disclosure are compared to flocked applicators for lip A (MNY Color Show lip gloss), B (MNY Liquid Matte), C (MNY lip gloss).

TABLE III

Comparison of hardness (g) and work to push (g sec) for flocked applicators through
3D printed stencil with a diameter of 4.53-8.0 (height of 6-7 mm) mm according to
the brush hardness test.

						Hardness
Diameter		Flock
1	Flock	Flock	Flock	of		Work
of	Brush	Length		1	2	Length	Bristles	Hardness	(push,	Work
stencil	Ex.	(mm)	(dtex)	(dtex)	(mm)	(g)	stdev	g*s)	stdev

4.53 mm	1	1.0	22	None	None	73.59	0.108	114.14	1.06
	4	1.0	44	None	None	101.09	8.09	114.81	3.53
	8	1.5	6.7	1.7	0.5	25.64	0.60	43.02	0.68
8.0 mm	15	2.0	44	None	None	33.15	10.40	32.87	6.34
	16	1.5	44	None	None	30.79	5.80	31.51	3.84
	17	1.0	22	None	None	57.79	5.66	49.14	4.48
	19	2.0	44	1.7	0.5	17.68	2.82	18.71	2.64
	20	1.0	22	None	None	23.25	8.28	22.41	6.10
	21	1.5	44	None	None	36.21	9.76	36.89	11.54

4.53 mm	A	Unknown	2.07	0.17	15.42	0.11
	B	Unknown	8.11	0.37	14.64	0.82
	C	Unknown	11.83	0.98	21.49	2.6

Referring to Table III, a comparison of the standard lip gloss applicators (A-C) to the flocked applicators (1, 4 and 8), using a 5 mm distance, shows that the lip gloss applicators (A-C) are 2 to 12 times (2-12 grams hardness) softer than the softest flock, Example 8 (25 grams). Further the lip applicators are 6-36 times softer than flock 1 (73 grams) and 8-50 times softer than flock 4. Moreover, with regard to the flow through system wherein the molded applicator is passed through a stencil diameter of 8.0 mm, the results depict that the softest flock (example 19) is 6 grams harder that the hardest lip gloss applicator, and the hardest flow through applicator is approximately 5 times harder (example 17).
Table IV depicts according to an embodiment, a comparison of the hardness (g) and work to push (g·sec) the flocked applicators through a 3D printed stencil (height of 6-7 mm) coated with felt. The stencil has a diameter of 10 mm (for non-flow through samples) and a diameter of 13 mm for the flow-through flocked applicator. As stated previously, hardness and work to push are determined using the brush hardness test, except that in the present case, the probe travels a distance of 15 mm when trigger force is achieved. In Table V, brush examples 15-19 are flow through applicator tips that are 3D printed and lab flocked.

TABLE IV

Comparison of hardness (g) and work to push (g sec) flocked
applicators through 3D printed stencil coated with felt.

						Hardness
Diameter		Flock
1		Flock	Flock	of		Work
of	Brush	Length	Flock	1	2	Length	Bristles	Hardness	(push,	Work
stencil	Ex.	(mm)	(dtex)	(dtex)	(mm)	(g)	stdev	g*s)	stdev

10 mm	1	1.0	22	None	None	105.02	31.4	375.06	87.19
stencil,	4	1.0	44	None	None	126.4	8.31	494.33	15.95
15 mm	8	1.5	6.7	1.7	0.5	28.83	0.94	153.6	3.77
distance
for probe
13 mm	15	2.0	44	None	None	116.59	2.19	363.62	28.05
stencil,	17	1.0	22	None	None	51.10	8.41	143.17	29.62
15 mm	19	2.0	44	1.7	0.5	53.97	14.29	184.37	32.94
distance
for probe

Referring to Table IV, it must be appreciated that for the lower limit flock hardness (example brush 8) having a dtex value of 6.7 dtex and 1.7 dtex, the hardness is not altered greatly in the presence of the felt (Table IV) in comparison to the case without felt (as depicted in Table III). Moreover, it must be appreciated that the peak force hardness and the work to push the samples in the presence of the felt increased for the harder dtex fibers.
While aspects of the present disclosure have been described in conjunction with the specific embodiments thereof that are proposed as examples, alternatives, modifications, and variations to the examples may be made. It should be noted that, as used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms “a,” “an,” and “the” include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
Furthermore, the foregoing discussion discloses and describes merely exemplary embodiments of the present invention. As will be understood by those skilled in the art, the present disclosure may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. Accordingly, the present disclosure is intended to be illustrative and not limiting of the scope, as well as the claims. The disclosure, including any readily discernible variants of the teachings herein, defines in part, the scope of the foregoing claim terminology such that no subject matter is dedicated to the public.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic system comprising:

(a) a cosmetic applicator including a deformable container that stores a cosmetic composition;

an applicator head having a proximal end and a distal end, the distal end being connected to the deformable container;

a slit along an axis of the applicator head;

an interior channel in the applicator head;

a flocked brush covering at least a portion of the slit, the flocked brush including a plurality of fibers, wherein each fiber has a length in a first range of 0.5 millimeters (mm) to 3.0 mm, and a decitex (dtex) value in a second range of 5-50; and

(b) a cosmetic composition.

2. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein each fiber of the plurality of fibers has a dtex value in a preferred range of 6.7 to 45 dtex.

3. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the flocked brush includes fibers of a first type disposed in a first region of the flocked brush, and fibers of a second type disposed in a second region of the flocked brush.

4. The cosmetic system of claim 3, wherein the first type of fibers have a dtex value greater than the dtex value of the second type of fibers.

5. The cosmetic system of claim 4, wherein the first type of fibers have a dtex value in the range of 20 to 45 dtex, and the second type of fibers have a dtex value in the range of 5 to 25 dtex.

6. The cosmetic system of claim 4, wherein the first region of the flocked brush is located substantially in the center of the flocked brush and the second region is located at a periphery of the flocked brush.

7. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the interior channel in the applicator head extends from an opening of the deformable container to a tip of the applicator head.

8. The cosmetic system of claim 7, wherein the interior channel has a diameter in a range of 0.5 mm to 5 mm.

9. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the slit has a length which is at least 30% of the length of applicator head.

10. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the slit has a length which is 45%-50% of the length of the applicator head.

11. The cosmetic system of claim 9, wherein the slit has a width in the range of 0.7 mm to 1.5 mm.

12. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a water-based mascara composition without waxes.