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US20080318485A1 - Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric - Google Patents

Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
US20080318485A1
US20080318485A1 US11/820,695 US82069507A US2008318485A1 US 20080318485 A1 US20080318485 A1 US 20080318485A1 US 82069507 A US82069507 A US 82069507A US 2008318485 A1 US2008318485 A1 US 2008318485A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
polyester filament
component
filament
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Abandoned
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US11/820,695
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Chi Ping Cheng
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CENTRAL TEXTILES (HK) Ltd
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CENTRAL TEXTILES (HK) Ltd
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Priority to US11/820,695 priority Critical patent/US20080318485A1/en
Assigned to CENTRAL TEXTILES (HK) LIMITED reassignment CENTRAL TEXTILES (HK) LIMITED ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: CHENG, CHI PING
Priority to EP20070114713 priority patent/EP2006422A1/en
Priority to JP2007261452A priority patent/JP2009001951A/en
Publication of US20080318485A1 publication Critical patent/US20080318485A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01H—SPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H1/00—Spinning or twisting machines in which the product is wound-up continuously
    • D01H1/02—Spinning or twisting machines in which the product is wound-up continuously ring type
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2929—Bicomponent, conjugate, composite or collateral fibers or filaments [i.e., coextruded sheath-core or side-by-side type]
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3008—Woven fabric has an elastic quality

Definitions

  • This invention relates generally to core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments and an elastomeric fiber and fabrics made there from, and more particularly, the present invention relates to core spun yarns comprising poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex, or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex.
  • core spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a number of component yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at the central axis of the composite thread, while the remaining yarns act as covering yarns. Therefore, heat set is necessary to prevent retraction of the elastic fibers and the resultant compression of the fabric. Without heat setting, there will be high shrinkage and poor appearance after a finishing operation or in-house washing. However, the required heat setting process is time and cost consuming with many side affects such as affected elongation, growth and the stability of the fabric width.
  • Bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,922,433, U.S. Pat. No. 7,143,790, and U.S. Pat. No. 6,782,923.
  • the disclosure of each of these patents is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • the fabrics disclosed in these patents use bare bi-component polyester and have a strong synthetic feel and appearance. This undesirable synthetic characteristic can only be overcome by dyeing the fabric in two separate dyeing steps. This is a tedious process and can reduce the elastic properties of the fabric. Also, it is limited to denim fabric.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • the polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • the yarn includes a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex.
  • the yarn includes a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • a woven stretch fabric comprising a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of one embodiment of a core spinning apparatus
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 1 ;
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic side view of the second embodiment of a core spinning apparatus
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 3 ;
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic side view of the third embodiment of a core spinning apparatus
  • FIG. 6 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 5 ;
  • FIG. 7 a is an image of the back side of fabric number 4 referred to in Table 2;
  • FIG. 7 b is a back side view of fabric number 5 referred to in Table 2;
  • FIG. 8 a is an image of a front face view of a fabric produced as disclosed herein.
  • FIG. 8 b is a back side view of the fabric shown in FIG. 8 a.
  • This disclosure relates to a bi-component filament core spun yarn which may comprise a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the bi-component polyester filament may comprise poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate).
  • the denier of the bi-component polyester filament should be in the range of from 20 to 150.
  • the elastomeric fabric is preferably a bare spandex from 20 to 140 denier.
  • the bi-component polyester filament and the elastomeric fiber are provided with a different draft.
  • draft is meant the reduction in the linear density of the fiber by drawing.
  • the degree of attenuation is calculated as the ratio of the surface speeds of the output and input machine components which bring out drafting.
  • the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.30 times is original length and the bare spandex is drafted from about 2.50 to about 4.50 times its original length.
  • the yarn includes a sheath which forms a composite yarn with the bi-component filaments and elastomeric yarns.
  • the sheath may be staple fibers of a hard yarn.
  • Hard yarn refers to relatively unelastic yarns such as polyester, cotton, nylon, rayon, or wool.
  • the sheath may range from Ne 4 to Ne 60.
  • Ne is an indirect system of expressing the mass per unit length as one lb. per 840 yards.
  • the fibers of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof may be used. In general, there is no particular restriction on the staple fibers that can be used provided that the benefits are not affected.
  • FIGS. 1 and 2 An apparatus for making yarn is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 .
  • a tube 2 or other source of the bi-component filament 4 mounted on a pair of feed rollers 6 .
  • a tube or other source 8 of elastomeric fiber 10 is mounted on a pair of feed rollers 12 .
  • the bi-component polyester filament 4 and elastomeric fiber 10 (spandex) are combined and controlled by a guide roller 14 from which the combined bi-component polyester and spandex is fed to the front rollers 16 .
  • a tube 18 of roving or hard fibers 20 is provided with the hard fiber being fed through a set of back rollers 22 and then to the front rollers 16 .
  • the combined spandex 10 and bi-component polyester filament 4 along with the hard fiber 20 is fed from the front rollers 16 thorough a snail wire 24 into a conventional spinning device 26 .
  • the spinning device 26 may include a spindle 28 , a spinning ring 30 and a balloon controlled ring 32 .
  • the combined bi-component polyester filament and spandex and hard fiber are core spun together in the spinning device during the spinning process, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex is covered by the hard fibers to form a component yarn.
  • Both the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are unwound in a counter-clockwise direction as shown in the figures.
  • the draft of the bi-component polyester 4 is controlled by the surface feed ratio of the feed rollers 6 and front roller 16 .
  • the draft of the spandex 10 is controlled by the surface speed of its feed rollers 12 and the front roller 16 .
  • the speed of the feed rollers 6 of the bi-component filament and 12 of the spandex can be adjusted separately to give the desired draft or stretch ratio.
  • the draft ratio of the bi-component polyester ranges from about 1.01 to 1.3. This ratio is designed based upon the stability of the coverage of the bare bi-component polyester and is not related to the stretchability of the woven fabric. A draft ratio of the spandex ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.5. The ratio is designed according to the stretchability requested on the resulting woven fabric.
  • the bi-component polyester and spandex are combined and controlled by the guide roller 14 properly positioned to achieve the proper coverage.
  • To achieve similar or even higher fabric stretch level as compared to previously known stretch fabrics made from core bi-component polyester spun yarn or bare bi-component polyester filament it is possible to use just 75 denier of the bi-component polyester filament and 40 denier of spandex to replace, for example, a core 150 denier of the bi-component polyester filament.
  • percent of the bi-component polyester is generally less than the prior art core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn, there is no special technique that has to be done in order to improve the coverage of the bare polyester filament.
  • a possible common yarn defect that could happen during the core yarn spinning process is for the bi-component polyester filament or the spandex to somehow break off and not be fed into the guide roller. Such defect would only be noticed upon the manual checking after the full cop or yarn breakage.
  • One way of providing a recognition of this problem at an early stage is to provide turning rollers 34 and 36 for the bi-component filament 4 and spandex fiber 10 as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4 . As shown in those figures, a turning roller 34 for the bi-component filament 4 is mounted between its feed rollers 6 and the front rollers 16 and the turning roller 36 for the spandex 10 is similarly mounted between its feed rollers 12 and front roller 16 .
  • a respective turning roller 34 or 36 will stop rotating providing an indication to a worker that a breakage has occurred and that the operation should be shut down until such problem is corrected.
  • the remainder of the apparatus of FIGS. 3 and 4 is the same as that of FIGS. 1 and 2 except that the guide 14 roller may be omitted.
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown in FIGS. 5 and 6 .
  • the bi-component polyester filament and spandex have been combined together in a separate device and are provided for feeding into the spinning device 40 on a tube mounted on feed rollers 42 .
  • the combined bi-component filament and spandex is fed over a single turning roller 44 to the front rollers 16 .
  • the roving or hard fiber is fed through the back rollers 22 to the front rollers 16 at which point the two sets of fibers pass into the spinning apparatus 26 .
  • such bi-component polyester filament and spandex will have been wound together at their desirable respective draft. However, in this case, there may be a draft of from 1.0 to 1.1 controlled by the surface speed ratio of the feed roller 42 and front roller 16 .
  • the core spun bi-component polyester filament and spandex yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a weft stretched, warp stretched, or bi-stretched by using the core spun yarn in a warp, weft and warp and weft directions respectively.
  • the woven stretch fabric may have a fabric weft ranging from 4 oz./sq. yd. to 16 oz./sq. yd.
  • the yarn as described herein is suitable for any woven fabric with construction as a plain, Z-twill, S-twill, satin, sateen and any other common construction which is used in such items as denim, pants, and shirts.
  • the fabric construction is designed similar to previously-known stretch fabric made from core spandex yarn or bi-component polyester filament. However, there is no need to have an open construction in order to get stretchability. In the case of the denim stretch woven fabric using the yarn as described herein, the fabric does not require heat set up to maintain good dimensional stability with shrinking less than 7%, elongation not less than 20% and growth less than 4%.
  • a piece dyed stretch fabric for example, using the weft stretch, using the yarn of the present disclosure, can achieve the lower shrinkage, less than 7%, good elongation not less than 20%, and growth less than 4%, with only an acceptable number of “white spots” occurring on the fabric surface. Also, it is not necessary to use a two-step dyeing process on a woven bi-stretch fabric using the yarn of the present invention as one can achieve a comfort stretch greater than 15% of in the warp and weft direction without any problem of grinning.
  • Fabric no. 1 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester and spandex spun yarn in the weft, whereas fabric no. 2 and fabric no. 3 are previously known stretch fabrics made by using core bi-component polyester filament and a bare bi-component polyester filament respectively.
  • fabric no. 1 in accordance with the present invention, obtains a better elongation as compared to fabrics no. 2 and fabric no. 3, and has a 100% cotton feel. Without any heat set process, fabric no. 1 achieves a good dimensional stability ( ⁇ 6.2%), good elongation (20%) and growth (2.5%). Other characteristics are summarized in Table 1.
  • fabric no. 4 is a fabric which uses a weft yarn in accordance with the present disclosure, which is a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex.
  • Fabric no. 5 is a common stretch fabric with the weft yarn being a core bi-component polyester filament only. Both weft yarns had a cotton sheath, and were subjected to a one step dyeing process.
  • fabric no. 4 in accordance with the present disclosure, achieved weft elongation of 21.6% and had growth of 1.9% and good stability of 3.5%.
  • FIG. 7 a shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5.
  • FIG. 7 b shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5.
  • Fabric no. 6 uses yarns in accordance with the present disclosure and comprises a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex spun yarn both in the warp and weft direction.
  • Fabric no. 7 comprises only a core bi-component polyester filament in the warp and weft as in previously known stretch fabrics. As shown in the table, fabric no. 6, has a higher stretch power (29%) in the weft direction. Further, the concern of exposure of the bare polyester in the warp of the previously known core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is not a problem with the fabric no. 6 as the percentage of the polyester is much less. In this example, the exposure of the bare polyester was not seen on the finished fabric using the yarns in the present disclosure.
  • the fabric's characteristic is summarized in Table 3.
  • This example shows the availability of fabrics using yarns in accordance with the present disclosure to reach the desired stretchability by adjusting the denier of the spandex/bi-component filament and the draft (if needed).
  • the warp yarn in each of the Fabrics no. 8-11 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn at Ne7.
  • the weft yarn in each of the fabrics comprises a different denier of the filament/spandex spun yarn at Ne8. They are:
  • This example shows the use of the yarns of the present disclosure on a bi-stretch fabric undergoing a one-step dyeing process as set forth in Table 5.
  • the example demonstrates a fabric with a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex in Ne10 both in the warp and the weft. Using only a one-step dyeing process the finished fabric still has a good appearance with an acceptable grinning effect.
  • FIG. 8 a shows the front face side of the fabric no. 12 of this example while FIG. 8 b shows the back-side view of fabric no. 12.
  • neither the front nor the back view show any significant sign or grinning. This is achieved with the elongation in the warp and weft being 15% and 20% respectively.
  • Other characteristics of the finished fabric is shown in Table 5.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

A core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140. The polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn. The elastomeric fiber may have higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex. The yarn may include a sheath of at least one staple fiber. The disclosure also includes a fabric of the bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.

Description

    TECHNICAL FIELD
  • This invention relates generally to core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments and an elastomeric fiber and fabrics made there from, and more particularly, the present invention relates to core spun yarns comprising poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex, or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex.
    • BACKGROUND
  • Conventional stretch fabrics made by using core spun spandex yarn has, in general, too much stretch power. As used herein, core spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a number of component yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at the central axis of the composite thread, while the remaining yarns act as covering yarns. Therefore, heat set is necessary to prevent retraction of the elastic fibers and the resultant compression of the fabric. Without heat setting, there will be high shrinkage and poor appearance after a finishing operation or in-house washing. However, the required heat setting process is time and cost consuming with many side affects such as affected elongation, growth and the stability of the fabric width.
  • Bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,922,433, U.S. Pat. No. 7,143,790, and U.S. Pat. No. 6,782,923. The disclosure of each of these patents is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. However, the fabrics disclosed in these patents use bare bi-component polyester and have a strong synthetic feel and appearance. This undesirable synthetic characteristic can only be overcome by dyeing the fabric in two separate dyeing steps. This is a tedious process and can reduce the elastic properties of the fabric. Also, it is limited to denim fabric.
  • Core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments in the center and fabrics made from them are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application publication US 2006/0179810. The disclosure of this patent application publication is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The fabrics produced using the yarn as disclosed in the patent application publication have improved appearance, hand feel and the bi-component polyester filament is covered by the staple fibers, but it still has a “grinning effect”. As used in the art, grinning refers to a flaw in the fabric wherein the inner fibers show through the outer fibers. For example, the case where the bi-component polyester filament which is covered by staple fibers shows through the covering of the staple fibers. Additionally, the elongation of the fabric is limited and can only be adjusted by the fabric construction which, in order to get a higher stretchability, resulted in a fabric that was “too soft”.
    • SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
  • According to one aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • According to another aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140. The polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
  • According to yet another aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber.
  • According to still another aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • According to still further aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex. The yarn includes a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • According to still further aspect there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex. The yarn includes a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • According to another aspect there is provided a woven stretch fabric comprising a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
    • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of one embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 1;
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic side view of the second embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 3;
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic side view of the third embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
  • FIG. 6 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of FIG. 5;
  • FIG. 7 a is an image of the back side of fabric number 4 referred to in Table 2;
  • FIG. 7 b is a back side view of fabric number 5 referred to in Table 2;
  • FIG. 8 a is an image of a front face view of a fabric produced as disclosed herein; and
  • FIG. 8 b is a back side view of the fabric shown in FIG. 8 a.
    • DETAILED DESCRIPTION
  • This disclosure relates to a bi-component filament core spun yarn which may comprise a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The bi-component polyester filament may comprise poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate). The denier of the bi-component polyester filament should be in the range of from 20 to 150.
  • The elastomeric fabric is preferably a bare spandex from 20 to 140 denier.
  • According to another aspect of the disclosure, the bi-component polyester filament and the elastomeric fiber are provided with a different draft. By draft is meant the reduction in the linear density of the fiber by drawing. When drafting, the degree of attenuation is calculated as the ratio of the surface speeds of the output and input machine components which bring out drafting. The bi-component polyester filament is drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.30 times is original length and the bare spandex is drafted from about 2.50 to about 4.50 times its original length.
  • According to another aspect, the yarn includes a sheath which forms a composite yarn with the bi-component filaments and elastomeric yarns. The sheath may be staple fibers of a hard yarn. “Hard yarn” refers to relatively unelastic yarns such as polyester, cotton, nylon, rayon, or wool. The sheath may range from Ne 4 to Ne 60. As used herein, Ne is an indirect system of expressing the mass per unit length as one lb. per 840 yards. The fibers of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof may be used. In general, there is no particular restriction on the staple fibers that can be used provided that the benefits are not affected.
  • An apparatus for making yarn is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. As shown in those figures, there is provided a tube 2 or other source of the bi-component filament 4 mounted on a pair of feed rollers 6. A tube or other source 8 of elastomeric fiber 10 is mounted on a pair of feed rollers 12. The bi-component polyester filament 4 and elastomeric fiber 10 (spandex) are combined and controlled by a guide roller 14 from which the combined bi-component polyester and spandex is fed to the front rollers 16. A tube 18 of roving or hard fibers 20 is provided with the hard fiber being fed through a set of back rollers 22 and then to the front rollers 16. The combined spandex 10 and bi-component polyester filament 4 along with the hard fiber 20 is fed from the front rollers 16 thorough a snail wire 24 into a conventional spinning device 26. As is well known in the art, the spinning device 26 may include a spindle 28, a spinning ring 30 and a balloon controlled ring 32. The combined bi-component polyester filament and spandex and hard fiber are core spun together in the spinning device during the spinning process, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex is covered by the hard fibers to form a component yarn.
  • Both the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are unwound in a counter-clockwise direction as shown in the figures. The draft of the bi-component polyester 4 is controlled by the surface feed ratio of the feed rollers 6 and front roller 16. The draft of the spandex 10 is controlled by the surface speed of its feed rollers 12 and the front roller 16. The speed of the feed rollers 6 of the bi-component filament and 12 of the spandex can be adjusted separately to give the desired draft or stretch ratio.
  • The draft ratio of the bi-component polyester ranges from about 1.01 to 1.3. This ratio is designed based upon the stability of the coverage of the bare bi-component polyester and is not related to the stretchability of the woven fabric. A draft ratio of the spandex ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.5. The ratio is designed according to the stretchability requested on the resulting woven fabric.
  • The bi-component polyester and spandex are combined and controlled by the guide roller 14 properly positioned to achieve the proper coverage. To achieve similar or even higher fabric stretch level as compared to previously known stretch fabrics made from core bi-component polyester spun yarn or bare bi-component polyester filament, it is possible to use just 75 denier of the bi-component polyester filament and 40 denier of spandex to replace, for example, a core 150 denier of the bi-component polyester filament. As the percent of the bi-component polyester is generally less than the prior art core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn, there is no special technique that has to be done in order to improve the coverage of the bare polyester filament.
  • A possible common yarn defect that could happen during the core yarn spinning process is for the bi-component polyester filament or the spandex to somehow break off and not be fed into the guide roller. Such defect would only be noticed upon the manual checking after the full cop or yarn breakage. One way of providing a recognition of this problem at an early stage is to provide turning rollers 34 and 36 for the bi-component filament 4 and spandex fiber 10 as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. As shown in those figures, a turning roller 34 for the bi-component filament 4 is mounted between its feed rollers 6 and the front rollers 16 and the turning roller 36 for the spandex 10 is similarly mounted between its feed rollers 12 and front roller 16. If either the bi-component polyester filament 4 or the spandex 10 is broken, a respective turning roller 34 or 36 will stop rotating providing an indication to a worker that a breakage has occurred and that the operation should be shut down until such problem is corrected. Other than the turning rollers, the remainder of the apparatus of FIGS. 3 and 4 is the same as that of FIGS. 1 and 2 except that the guide 14 roller may be omitted.
  • Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. In those figures, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex have been combined together in a separate device and are provided for feeding into the spinning device 40 on a tube mounted on feed rollers 42. In this case, the combined bi-component filament and spandex is fed over a single turning roller 44 to the front rollers 16. The roving or hard fiber is fed through the back rollers 22 to the front rollers 16 at which point the two sets of fibers pass into the spinning apparatus 26. In the case where the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are wound together before being put on the feed rollers, such bi-component polyester filament and spandex will have been wound together at their desirable respective draft. However, in this case, there may be a draft of from 1.0 to 1.1 controlled by the surface speed ratio of the feed roller 42 and front roller 16.
  • The core spun bi-component polyester filament and spandex yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a weft stretched, warp stretched, or bi-stretched by using the core spun yarn in a warp, weft and warp and weft directions respectively. The woven stretch fabric may have a fabric weft ranging from 4 oz./sq. yd. to 16 oz./sq. yd. The yarn as described herein is suitable for any woven fabric with construction as a plain, Z-twill, S-twill, satin, sateen and any other common construction which is used in such items as denim, pants, and shirts. The fabric construction is designed similar to previously-known stretch fabric made from core spandex yarn or bi-component polyester filament. However, there is no need to have an open construction in order to get stretchability. In the case of the denim stretch woven fabric using the yarn as described herein, the fabric does not require heat set up to maintain good dimensional stability with shrinking less than 7%, elongation not less than 20% and growth less than 4%.
  • A piece dyed stretch fabric, for example, using the weft stretch, using the yarn of the present disclosure, can achieve the lower shrinkage, less than 7%, good elongation not less than 20%, and growth less than 4%, with only an acceptable number of “white spots” occurring on the fabric surface. Also, it is not necessary to use a two-step dyeing process on a woven bi-stretch fabric using the yarn of the present invention as one can achieve a comfort stretch greater than 15% of in the warp and weft direction without any problem of grinning.
  • The following examples demonstrate the yarn of the present disclosure and its capability for use in manufacturing a variety of woven stretch fabrics.
    • EXAMPLE 1—Denim Weft Stretch Fabric
  • This example shows the weft stretch denim fabric as shown in Table 1 below. Fabric no. 1 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester and spandex spun yarn in the weft, whereas fabric no. 2 and fabric no. 3 are previously known stretch fabrics made by using core bi-component polyester filament and a bare bi-component polyester filament respectively. As will be noted, fabric no. 1, in accordance with the present invention, obtains a better elongation as compared to fabrics no. 2 and fabric no. 3, and has a 100% cotton feel. Without any heat set process, fabric no. 1 achieves a good dimensional stability (−6.2%), good elongation (20%) and growth (2.5%). Other characteristics are summarized in Table 1.
  • TABLE 1
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - Weft Stretch
    Fabric Sample No.
    Fabric No. 1 Fabric No. 2 Fabric No. 3
    Yarn Warp Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi- Ne10 CSY 150D bi- Bare 600D bi-component
    component polyester component polyester polyester filament
    filament & 40D spandex filament
    Composition Warp 100% cotton 100% cotton 100% cotton
    Weft 83% cotton 72% cotton 100% Polyester
    14% polyester 28% polyester —
    3% spandex — —
    Draft Polyester 1.02 1.02 —
    Spandex 2.5 — —
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z”
    Fabric Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 12.3 11.7 13.2
    After Wash 13.4 12.0 13.7
    Greige Fabric Density Warp 62 60 58
    (per inch) Weft 46 45 42
    Finished Fabric Density Warp 72 70 72
    (per inch) Weft 49 48 46
    Test # Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Warp −3.3 −2.5 −1.8
    Washes Weft −6.2 −2 −4
    Tearing Strength Warp g >6400 >6400 >6400
    lb >14.08 >14.08 >14.08
    Weft g 5300 5600 >6400
    lb 11.7 12.3 >14.08
    Tensile Strength Warp kg 135 139 106
    lb 297.4 304.9 232.8
    Weft kg 43.7 47.7 157.6
    lb 96.1 104.9 346.7
    Seam Slippage ¼″ (kg) Parallel to Warp >18.2 >18.2 >18.2
    Parallel to Weft >18.2 >18.2 >18.2
    Washing Fastness Colour Change
    Colour Staining
    Crocking Fastness Dry 3.5 3.5 3.0
    Wet 1 1 1
    Elongation & Growth (%) Warp E/G —
    Weft E/G 20/2.5 14/1.3 20/2.0
    • EXAMPLE 2—ONE STEP DYED WEFT STRETCH FABRIC
  • This example demonstrates a weft stretch fabric which has been dyed with a single step process. As shown in Table 2, fabric no. 4 is a fabric which uses a weft yarn in accordance with the present disclosure, which is a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex. Fabric no. 5 is a common stretch fabric with the weft yarn being a core bi-component polyester filament only. Both weft yarns had a cotton sheath, and were subjected to a one step dyeing process. As will be noted, fabric no. 4, in accordance with the present disclosure, achieved weft elongation of 21.6% and had growth of 1.9% and good stability of 3.5%. One significant advantage as compared to the use of the bare bi-component polyester filament or core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is that the exposure of the bare polyester filament is improved. As shown in FIG. 7 a, no bare polyester can be seen on fabric no. 4. On the other hand, FIG. 7 b shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5. Using yarns according to the present disclosure eliminates necessity of a two-step dyeing process which is cost consuming.
  • TABLE 2
    Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - Weft Stretch <one part dyed>
    Fabric Sample No.
    Fabric No. 4 Fabric No. 5
    Yarn Warp Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75 D bi- Ne10 CSY 150 D bi-
    component polyester component polyester
    filament & 40 D spandex filament
    Composition Warp 100% cotton 100% cotton
    Weft 84% cotton 73% cotton
    13% polyester 27% polyester
    3% spandex —
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z”
    Fabric Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 11.0 11.0
    After Wash 11.4 11.3
    Greige Fabric Density Warp 58 58
    (per inch) Weft 42 42
    Finished Fabric Density Warp 69 66
    (per inch) Weft 44 44
    Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Warp −1.5 −1.5
    Washes Weft −3.5 −2.7
    Elongation & Growth (%) Warp E/G —
    Weft E/G 21.6/1.9 16/1.5
    • EXAMPLE 3—BI-STRETCH DENIM FABRIC
  • This example shows the advantage of the use of yarns in accordance with the present disclosure in bi-stretch denim fabric as shown in Table 3. Fabric no. 6 uses yarns in accordance with the present disclosure and comprises a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex spun yarn both in the warp and weft direction. Fabric no. 7 comprises only a core bi-component polyester filament in the warp and weft as in previously known stretch fabrics. As shown in the table, fabric no. 6, has a higher stretch power (29%) in the weft direction. Further, the concern of exposure of the bare polyester in the warp of the previously known core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is not a problem with the fabric no. 6 as the percentage of the polyester is much less. In this example, the exposure of the bare polyester was not seen on the finished fabric using the yarns in the present disclosure. The fabric's characteristic is summarized in Table 3.
  • TABLE 3
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-Stretch
    Fabric Sample No.
    Fabric No. 6 Fabric No. 7
    Warp Yarn Ne 7 CSY 75 denier bi-component Ne 7 CSY 150 denier bi-component
    filament + 40 D spandex slub filament slub
    Weft Yarn Ne 10 CSY 75 denier bi-component Ne 10 CSY 150 denier bi-component
    filament + 70 D spandex filament
    Composition Warp 88% cotton, 10% polyester, 2% 81% cotton, 19% polyester
    spandex
    Weft 82% cotton, 14% polyester, 4% 73% cotton, 27% poyester
    spandex
    Draft Polyester 1.02 1.06
    Spandex 40 D 2.5 —
    Spandex 70 D 3.5 —
    Fabric Construction 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z”
    Greige Fabric Width (Inch) 67.0 67.0
    Finished Fabric Width (Inch) 52.0 57.5
    Fabric Weight Before Wash 13.7 12.5
    (oz/sq.yd) After Wash 15.4 12.6
    Greige Fabric Density Warp 54 54
    (per inch) Weft 50 42
    Finished Fabric Density Warp 69 63
    (per inch) Weft 59 51
    Dimensional 3 Washes Warp −6 −3.0
    Stability (%) Weft −6.5 −2.3
    Elongation (%) Warp E/G 20/3.2 20.6/2.6
    Growth (%) Weft E/G 29/2.2 16.0/1.2
    • EXAMPLE 4—BI-STRETCH DENIM FABRIC WITH Different Combination of the Denier
  • This example shows the availability of fabrics using yarns in accordance with the present disclosure to reach the desired stretchability by adjusting the denier of the spandex/bi-component filament and the draft (if needed). The warp yarn in each of the Fabrics no. 8-11 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn at Ne7. The weft yarn in each of the fabrics comprises a different denier of the filament/spandex spun yarn at Ne8. They are:
      • Fabric no. 8: 75 denier filament and 70 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
      • Fabric no. 9: 75 denier filament and 40 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
      • Fabric no. 10: 150 denier filament and 40 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
      • Fabric no. 11: 150 denier filament (previously known stretch fabric).
  • The fabric characteristics are summarized in Table 4. After finishing, fabrics nos. 8, 9 and 10, those in accordance with the present disclosure, have reasonable stretch ranging from 21% to 27% with good recovery, (growth less than 2.4%). With the conventional fabric no. 11, with a core bi-component polyester filament only, the stretch power was much lower at 15%. It should be noted that since the warp yarn is all the same, the elongation and growth are substantially the same at 18% and between 1.4% and 2.0% respectively. This shows that without using the open end construction, it is possible to get desirable stretch power in any application with yarns according to the present disclosure.
  • TABLE 4
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - combination of denier and draft
    Sample No.
    Fabric No. 8* Fabric No. 9* Fabric No. 10* Fabric No. 11*
    Yarn Warp Ne7 CSY 150D Ne7 CSY 150D Ne7 CSY 150D Ne7 CSY 150D
    bi-component filament bi-component filament bi-component filament bi-component filament
    Slub Slub Slub Slub
    Weft Ne8 CSY 75 denier Ne8 CSY 75 denier Ne8 CSY 150 denier Ne8 CSY 150 denier
    bi-component bi-component bi-component bi-component
    filament + 70D filament + 40D filament + 40D filament
    spandex spandex spandex
    Composition Warp 81.4% cotton, 81.4% cotton, 81.4% cotton, 81.4% cotton,
    18.6% polyester 18.6% polyester 18.6% polyester 18.6% polyester
    Weft 86% cotton, 87% cotton, 77% cotton, 78% cotton,
    11% polyester, 11% polyester, 21% polyester, 22% polyester
    3% spandex 2% spandex 2% spandex
    Draft Polyester 150D 1.06 1.06 1.06 1.06
    Polyester 75D 1.02 1.02 — —
    Spandex 70D 3.5 — — —
    Spandex 40D — 33 3.3 —
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z” 3/1 “Z”
    Greige Fabric Width (Inch) 67.0 67.3 67.0 66.6
    Finished Fabric Width (Inch) 36.3 36.3 33.3 38.3
    Fabric Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 13.3 12.8 13.3 12.2
    After Wash 13.2 13.8 16.2 13.0
    Greige Fabric Density Warp
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    (per inch) Weft
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Finished Fabric Density Warp
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    (per inch) Weft
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    Test Dimensional Stability 3 Washes Warp −2.3 −3.3 −3 −3.0
    (%) Weft −7 −6 −3.7 −2.3
    Elongation (%) Warp E/G 18/1.6 18/1.6 18/1.6 18.0/2.0
    Growth (%) Weft E/G 27/2.6 21/2.2 22/1.8
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    /1.8
    *represents this present invention in the weft
    Figure US20080318485A1-20081225-P00899
    indicates data missing or illegible when filed
    • EXAMPLE 5
  • This example shows the use of the yarns of the present disclosure on a bi-stretch fabric undergoing a one-step dyeing process as set forth in Table 5. The example demonstrates a fabric with a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex in Ne10 both in the warp and the weft. Using only a one-step dyeing process the finished fabric still has a good appearance with an acceptable grinning effect. FIG. 8 a shows the front face side of the fabric no. 12 of this example while FIG. 8 b shows the back-side view of fabric no. 12. As will be noted, neither the front nor the back view show any significant sign or grinning. This is achieved with the elongation in the warp and weft being 15% and 20% respectively. Other characteristics of the finished fabric is shown in Table 5.
  • TABLE 5
    Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-stretch
    Fabric Sample No.
    Fabric No. 12*
    Yarn Warp Yarn Ne10 CSY 75 D bi-component polyester
    filament & 40 D spandex
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75 D bi-component polyester
    filament & 40 D spandex
    Composition Warp 83% Cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex
    Weft 83% Cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex
    Draft Polyester 1.02
    Spandex 2.5
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 “Z”
    Fabric Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 11.1
    After Wash 11.7
    Greige Fabric Density Warp 68
    (per inch) Weft 40
    Finished Fabric Density Warp 83
    (per inch) Weft 47
    Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Warp −5
    Washes Weft −1.6
    Elongation & Growth (%) Warp E/G 15.1/2
    Weft E/G 16.6/2
  • While various embodiments have been shown and described, various modifications and substitutions should be made thereto. Accordingly, it is understood that the present embodiments have been described by way of illustration and not limitations.

Claims (18)

1. A core spun yarn comprising:
a bi-component polyester filament; and
an elastomeric fiber, said polyester filament having a denier from about 20 to about 150 and said elastomeric fiber having a denier from 20 to 140.
2. The yarn of claim 1 in which the polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
3. The yarn of claim 2 wherein the elastomeric filament has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester filament.
4. The yarn of claim 3 wherein the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric yarn is drafted from 2.5 to about 4.5 times its original length.
5. The yarn in claim 1 wherein said polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
6. The yarn of claim 5 further including in a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
7. The yarn of claim 6 wherein said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
8. The yarn of claim 6 comprising a sheath of at least one hard fiber having an English cotton count (Ne) from about 4 to about 60.
9. The yarn of claim 6 wherein the bi-component polyester fabric is drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric yarn is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its original length.
10. A woven stretch fabric comprising the core spun yarn of claim 2 in the weft and/or warp.
11. The woven stretch fabric of claim 10 wherein the fabric is a plain woven, twill or satin fabric.
12. The woven stretch fabric of claim 11 wherein the fabric is denim and has been subjected to a one-step dyeing process of piece dyed fabric.
13. The woven stretch fabric of claim 12 which has a weft and/or warp elongation from about 10% to about 35%.
14. The woven stretch fabric of claim 13 which is substantially free of any bi-component polyester filament grinning effect.
15. A core spun yarn comprising:
a bi-component polyester filament; and
an elastomeric fiber, said bi-component polyester fabric being drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric yarn is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its original length.
16. The yarn of claim 15 further including in a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
17. The yarn of claim 16 wherein said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
18. A woven stretch fabric comprising the core spun yarn of claim 17 in the weft and/or warp.
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US8215092B2 (en) 2007-04-17 2012-07-10 Cone Denim Llc Methods and apparatus for making elastic composite yarns
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US20110053449A1 (en) * 2009-08-25 2011-03-03 Welspun Global Brands Limited Multipurpose Laminated Stretch Fabric
CN101886305A (en) * 2010-06-21 2010-11-17 湖北天化麻业股份有限公司 Technology for processing embedded high count high-quality ramie cotton blending yarns
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US20160024692A1 (en) * 2013-09-09 2016-01-28 Central Fabrics Limited Core spun elastic composite yarn and woven fabric thereof
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CN103628208A (en) * 2013-12-02 2014-03-12 江阴市金鹏机械有限公司 Three-carrier roller positive production device used for twin-core core-spun yarn
CN103668628A (en) * 2013-12-04 2014-03-26 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 Processing method for compact Sirofil elastic yarns
CN104005135A (en) * 2014-03-25 2014-08-27 如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司 Polyester-spandex double corn spun yarn and fabric thereof
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US10704168B2 (en) 2015-02-24 2020-07-07 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Filamentary core for an elastic yarn, elastic composite yarn, textile fabric and apparatus and method for manufacturing said elastic yarn
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US20170022637A1 (en) * 2015-07-22 2017-01-26 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Garment and process of preparation
CN106958057A (en) * 2015-11-11 2017-07-18 里特机械公司 Method and device for producing elastic core yarn
US11965273B2 (en) 2017-03-27 2024-04-23 Sysco Guest Supply, Inc. Terry towels comprising core spun yarns and associated methods for manufacture
US12286729B2 (en) 2017-05-04 2025-04-29 Sanko Tekstil Iletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Yarns with conductive elastomeric cores, fabrics and garments formed of the same, and methods for producing the same
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TWI650455B (en) * 2017-08-31 2019-02-11 柏爾股份有限公司 Multi-function skin-core fiber cool feeling tannin cloth manufacturing method
US20190085486A1 (en) * 2017-09-21 2019-03-21 Coretek Fibers Ltd. Spiral yarn structure, manufacturing method and manufacturing device thereof and textile utilizing the same
US10914022B2 (en) * 2017-09-21 2021-02-09 Coretek Fibers Ltd Spiral yarn structure, manufacturing method and manufacturing device thereof and textile utilizing the same
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