US1218435A - Chart or master-pattern. - Google Patents

Description

K. C. McLAREN.

CHART 0H MASTER PATTERN.

APPucATlpu FILED FEB.29. 1916- 2 SHEETS-SHEET l- YNE NURRIS PETER: CO. PROYD-LITNtL. WASHINGYUN. D. C.

Patented Mar. 6, 1917,

K. C'. McLAREN.

CHART 0R MASTER PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED FEB. 29. .1916.

1,21 8,435. Patented Mar. 6, 1917.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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KATE C. MGLAREN, OF WASHINGTON, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

CHART OR 1VIASTER-PATTERN.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 6, 1917.

Application filed February 29, 1916 Serial N o 81,225.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, KATE C. MoLAREN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Washington, in the District of Columbia, have invented new and useful Improvements in Charts or Master-Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a chart or master pattern designed for the use of dressmakers and others in laying off and producing patterns for tight and loose fitting shirtwaists, blouses and other garments for women and children.

It has been customary heretofore for the,

makers of garment patterns to produce a series of patterns of each style of garment according to bust measure throughout a determined scale or range of measurement, generally from 32 to 48 inches. This requires the production of a very large number of separate patterns for each style, which must be constantly carried in stock by the maker and retailer as long as each particular style is in vogue. In many cases patterns for a good many of the sizes are not called for or in as much demand as patterns for other sizes, and consequently the maker and retailer are often left with a large amount of unsold stock on hand at a greater or less loss. Furthermore, it is difiicult for the retailer to keep all sizes constantly in stock for immediate demand, resulting in inconvenience to those desiring to purchase a pattern for a certain size of garment.

- The main object of my invention is to provide a chart or master pattern from which working patterns of any size within the given range may be accurately made by anyone having ordinary knowledge of the dressmaking art, thus requiring the production and carrying in stock of but a single pattern for each style, with a manifest saving in time and labor in the production of the patterns by the maker and with less liability of loss from unsold stock to the maker and retailer, while at the same time affording greater convenience to the prospective purchaser of a pattern in being able to obtain a pattern good for all sizes andinstead of being required to purchase one of a particular size within a range of sizes.

A further object of the invention is to provide a chart or master pattern which may be employed with equal convenience by professional dressmakers and others engaged occasionally in dressmaking occupations,

and which by reason of its simplicity of construction and mode of use affords increased conveniences over charts designed for the use of professional ,dressmakers in enabling those possessing ordinary skill in dressmaking to employ the chart with advantage.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a chart or master pattern which, in addition to providing markings for the different sizes of different portions of a garment of a selected measure, also provides outlines whereby the curves of different sizes of parts of garments may be easily and con veniently drawn or laid out with accuracy and certainty;

With these and others objects in view, the invention consists of the features of construction, combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter fully described and claimed, reference being had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 represents a chart or master pattern for one-half of the front of a basque or tight fitting waist, showing in full lines the parts of one size of pattern laid out.

Fig. 2 is a similar view representing onehalf of the back of the same garment pattern.

Fig. 3 represents a view of a chart or master pattern for a sleeve with a pattern of a certain size laid out in full lines thereon.

Figs. 4 and 5 are views similar to Figs. 1 and 2 of one-half the front and one-half the back, respectively, of a chart or master pattern for a shirtwaist or blouse.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, A designates the chart or master pattern for one-half of the front of a basque or tight waist, and A and A respectively, designate the front and side forms or sections of a specimen pattern laid out thereon. As shown, the chart-has an outline contour presenting a front curved edge or line a, a bottom curved line a, shoulder line a neck curve or cut-out a the arm cut-out or scye a and the under arm line a and hip curve line a respectively. Along the shoulder line a the chart is provided with a scale in inches for the shoulder measure, and at difl'erent points upon the chart are rows of perforations 2) arranged for width measurements and having arranged alongside of them figures representing the bust measure for which the several perforations in each row are intended. In the present instance the perforations are designed to represent a range of bust measurements from 32 inches to 48 inches, inclusive. In practice, the chart or master pattern is made of some strong and durable paper or other sheet material, while the patterns formed therefrom may be made as usual of tissue paper or like material. The specimen pattern sections A and A which are shown upon the chart for purposes of example, indicate in general the mode of preparing a pattern. In this operation of preparing a pattern for a waist of a determined bust measure, say 48 inches, the master pattern is laid upon the pattern paper and se cured thereto in any suitable manner, and then the pattern paper is marked through the perforations on the chart designating the intended bust measure at the several grade line points Z), whereupon the chart or master pattern is removedand the dots or marks formed upon the pattern sheet connected to complete the outline of a pattern of the designated size.

For the purpose of facilitating the operation of making a pattern, as well as securing accurate results in an easy and convenient manner, indicating perforations 0-0 are formed along the outlines of the specimen pattern sections and the corresponding points along the outlines of the chart or master pattern. These perforations enable points or marks to be made upon the pattern sheet to indicate the points along which curved lines should be drawn for connecting certain of the marks made through the perforations b, so that the proper lines of curvature for the neck, front, arm-scye, under arm curve, hip curve, etc., may be formed. These perforations also indicate other positions for marks denoting points for darts, etc., the perforation 0, for example, indicating the lower point of the neck curve, the perforations 0 V bust mark points, the perforations a dart points, and the perforations 0, c and 0 denoting positions for the formation of point marks in defining or laying out the curve for the side front A, while the .perforations c, 0, 0 0 and 0 extending along the front edge of the chart indicate positions for the formation of point marks in defining or laying out the curve for the side form A These perforations 00 accordingly provide a convenient means for indicating points of registry, denoted by the corresponding reference characters of the perforations on the chart and specimen patterns or forms referred to, in making the curves required in connecting the points formed through the perforations b, which vary to a greater or less extent in the different sizes of patterns throughout the designed range of bust measures.

Also arranged upon the chart or master pattern are longitudinal rows of perforations (Z extending above and below the waist line cl of each pattern section and coincident vwith the front edge outline thereof, which perforations are designed for the formation of marks indicating distances for short or long waist lengths and have inch scales or other suitable indications arranged opposite the same. Perforations 6, arranged in both longitudinal and transverse rows, are provided in the chart sheet along the rear outline edges of the pattern sections above and below the waistline and serve the double purpose of the two sets of openings 5 and d at that particular point in enabling the bust measurement marks as well as long and short waist length marks to be made with relation to the waist line and the under arm and hip curve line. It will thus be seen that by means of the chart or master pattern thus formed, which may be constructed to produce patterns of any portion of a desired garment, a pattern of any bust size in any determined style may be easily and conveniently produced, and variations in the outline curves and waist lengths made as required. In making the measurement for waist length the pattern section is first produced in the manner described and any variations determined and marked off, after which the pattern section, if not of proper length, may be divided along the waist line and portions removed or inserted as occasion requires. An outside edging f is preferably provided at points where the chart is liable to be exposed and subjected to wear from handling, etc., to protect the body of the chart until used, and this edging is cut away at the time of use, as Will be readily understood.

In Fig. 2 I have shown a chart or master pattern A of the rear half of the garment complemental to the chart shown in Fig. 1, and in which the outlines of rear pattern sections A and A are inscribed. This chart A bears the same features of construction as the chart A, such features being correspondingly numbered, and such difi'erences being only those incidental to the formation of different pattern sections. This chart A is shown provided along its rear edge with a scale 9 in inches for length measure, while each pattern section therein is shown with an inscribed bust line it, but otherwise the features of construction are generally the same and will be readily understood from the foregoing description.

In Fig. 3 I have shown a chart or master pattern A, for the sleeve of a garment, and which is outlined to indicate the under and upper sleeve pattern sections A and A together with the shoulder portion A and the indicated elbow and Wrist or cup lines i and i. This chart shows the rows of perforations for width and length measurements and the curves for the sleeves of different sizes.

In Figs. 4 and 5 I have shown charts or master patterns A and A for the front and rear half sections of a shirtwaist and which bear the same general features of construction, with necessary modifications, set forth with relation to the chart shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The chart A", in addition to features previously described, is provided with a length scale in inches 7' at its front edge, a perforation y" for marking off the point of the lapel curve, perforations 70 for marking off the pattern to connect lines to produce a collar pattern A, and a line Z indicating a change in the waistline in making a blouse pattern. The pattern A bears the general features of construction previously described, and from which its construction will be readily understood, and is provided with a length scale m in inches along its rear edge. The mode of use of these charts will be apparent from the foregoing description.

I claim 1. A chart or master pattern for use in laying out working patterns provided with a pattern outline, having indicating indicia and a protecting margin entirely beyond said pattern outline and indicating indicia adapted to be removed along the adjacent portion of the pattern outline Wholly beyond said outline and indicia to adapt the pattern to be employed.

2. A chart or master pattern for use in laying out working patterns having a main outline of a garment section and outlines therein of one or more portions of such garment section, a length scale along a determined margin, lines of perforations at different points in the said outlines for indicating different bust measurements, other perforated lines for indicating variations for lengths and widths in patterns of the same size, and lines with perforations for indicating variations in the curves and lengths and widths of patterns of different sizes in the same style.

In testimony whereof I affix my signa- I ture in presence of two Witnesses.

KATE O. McLAREN. Witnesses:

E. EDMoNs'roN, Jr., BENNETT S. JONES.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Gommissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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