US126138A - Improvement in gathered hems - Google Patents

Description

ZSheets--SheeL HENRY A. ELLIS.

Gathered Hams. No, 126,138, Patented Aprl30,l872.

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HENRY ELUS.

Gathered Hems.

Nol 126,138, Patented Apr!30,1872.

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STAES HENRY A. ELLIS, or cHIooPEE FALLS, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR To WILLIAM BROWN, or SAME rLAcE.

IMPROVEMENT IN GATHERED HEN'IS.

Specilication forming part of Letters Patent No. 126,138, dated April 30, 1872.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY A. ELLIS, of Chicopee Falls, in the county of Hampden and State of Massachusetts, have invented a Gathered Hem; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompar nying drawing making part of this specification, in which- Figure l, Plate l, shows a circular gathered hem. Fig. 2, Plate l, is a sectional view of a gathered hem. Fig. 3, Plate 2, is a perspective view of a Sewing-machine attachment which will produce a gathered hem on circular or straight material.

The object of this invention is to produce gathered hems on straight or circular material, so that the work will, when pressed, present a smooth and neat appearance, and at the same time be more durable than hems which are formed by plaiting the material as hitherto practiced.

The following is a description of my new manufacture, and also one practical form of device which will produce it.

In the accompanying drawing I have represented a hem, A', which is of a circular form, for ladies skirts, and which is produced by gathering in the folded edge, as indicated at a. By reference to Fig. 2 it will be seen that some of the gathers are more elevated than others, or, in other words, more cloth is taken up for some of the gathers than for others; also, that at one point the hem is not gathered at all. This I do by means of an attachment to a sewing-machine, without stopping the machine to adjust the feed of the gathering device, and without previously preparing the work by basting or otherwise.

On Plate 2, Fig. 3, I have represented a device, by means of which the work hereinabove described can be readily executed. This device forms the subject of an application for Letters Patent tiled by me on the 11th day of March, 1872, and is not claimed under this application.

A represents a narrow strip of metal,which is slotted at a, and constructed with a guide, N, on one end. On this guide an anti-friction wheel, b2, may be applied. Between b2 and b the edge of the guide N is curved out, as at b1, to allow a slackness of the folded hem in line with th'e turning device G. B is a block,

which is adjustable by loosening the binding nut c for hems of different widths. C is a standard, which is secured to the front edge of the adjustable block B, and to which an arm, C, is pivoted, so as to swing forward and backward. D is an extension of arm D,which receives through its end a screw, e, on which a nut, e', is applied. The screw e rises from the foot B3, and around it is coiled a spring, E. B1

is a standard, which is bored out and providedv with a set-screw, t, for attaching the device to a sewing-machine. The armD and its extension receives vibration from the needle-bar of the sewing-machine, and communicates a forward and backward motion to the turner G, which is applied to block B byl means of a dovetail tenon, s, fitted into a slot in said block. To the turner G two gripin g jaws or nippers, g g, are applied, between which the material passes on its way to the needle, which latter plays through notch j' through the foot B3. .The strokes of the turner G and its nippers are lengthened or shortened by adjusting the nut c on screw-rod c. rPhe griping ends of the nippers present smooth edges, which will a1- low the folded edge of the cloth to be held back when desired, and the nippers to slip over it when making forward strokes.

When the device I have above described is applied to a sewingmachine, the material to entirely automatically, or its operation can be controlled at will. y

What is meant by a gathered straight hem referred to in the above description7 is where the material is cut straight and the raw edge is stretched, more or less, so that the folded edge is longer than the body of thc Work. I gather in this stretched edge precisely as I gather the edge ofthe circular or gored Work, so that when thc straight hem is completed and pressed down the folded edge thereof will lie smooth.

Without confining myself to the device for gathering and hemming herein described, I claim- As a new article of manufacture, the gathered and hemmed Work herein described.

HENRY A. ELLIS.

Witnesses:

J. N. CAMPBELL, J AMES MARTIN, Jr.

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